Nice work guys! It looks like you've actually got a good base motor to work with. Couple of things that I wanted to offer: - I've found the best way of getting oxidised/filthy aluminium castings back to 'as new' condition is vapour blasting. Sand/media blasting gives a really coarse surface finish that tends to get dirty again really quick. - That vac canister is part of the factory ALS system and you don't need it. - The knock sensors on the EVO 4G63 engines are generally pretty reliable but of course if it's taken a hit or been visually damaged then all bets are off :) - The 4G63 EVO4-9 run a waste spark ignition system and those coils are dual post coils - One side is like a conventional COP system and the other post runs to the lead. They are prone to heat related failure and given yours is now a 'two piece' coil I'd opt for replacing them and the leads with new. - The wear on your bores and piston skirts looks pretty typical for what I'd expect to see from a high mileage motor. Nothing too worrying really. What I'd be more concerned about is any scratches you can feel with your finger nail. Ultimately it doesn't matter since you'd be best to use a 0.020" oversize forged piston which gives the machinist the opportunity to bore and hone the bores to get them back to perfectly round and true. It's also a good idea to have the block torque-plate honed as the bores do tend to distort a little on the 4G63 when the head is bolted down. - I always removed the balance shafts on any performance build and provided the rest of the components are balanced by your machinist you shouldn't have any abnormal vibration levels. I don't remove them so much for power as reliability since it's one more belt that can fail. If you remove the shafts though don't just cut the shaft off the oil pump driven gear and block the oil hole as many do - This can result in oil pump failure. Instead you can have a machinist machine the counter weights off the balance shaft. This eliminates the weight but still supports the oil pump gear. The other shaft can simply be removed but you need to turn the balance shaft bearings to blank the oil gallery holes. A frost plug works well to blank the resulting hole in the front cover ;) - As for your main bolts, personally I'd opt for a set of ARP main studs - In particular you'll often see fretting between the block and cradle with stock bolts in high power/high rpm engines so the ARP option is cheap insurance. In my experience the ARP studs don't distort the main bearing tunnel so there's no need to hone the tunnel. Hope that helps and look forward to seeing the updates!
Thanks Andre! The good news is we recently ordered a vapor blaster, the bad news is we'll probably assemble this engine before it arrives. But our machinist did clean everything up nicely for us and based on his analysis he thinks we're ok to use the stock bores. I'll send you some detailed pics for your feedback, since it'd be great to get your input on this. Pete seems determined not to delete the balance shaft, but I'll show him your input, as it makes perfect sense and we are upgrading to high quality internals that we will balance using your process. We will most certainly be using ARP main studs, already on the shelf here and ready to go! Do you recommend balancing the crankshaft, flywheel and clutch combo for a mild(ish) build like this?
@@speedacademy as a rule we rebalanced all the rotating components in our 4G63 engines regardless whether they were moderate power road engines or circuit/drag engines. For lower rpm operation it wouldn't be considered strictly necessary since the components are already balanced by the factory, however we can work to a finer tolerance which can offer smoother operation. It's not something that will necessarily show a gain on the dyno but it can help improve engine life expectancy and give a smoother feeling engine at high rpm. It really comes down to your budget for the job and a bit of internal cost-benefit analysis.
For the record I’ve been cutting the shaft, and using a longer bolt to plug the hole in all my 4G63 builds and never had an oil pump failure even turning 10,000rpm. Also have never had the vibration even on stock bottom ends that Pete is referring to in this video. If it’s vibrating so bad that bolts are coming loose you have another problem. Just my two cents.
Did you all enjoy the longer 30-min format of this video? Or would you have preferred two 15-min videos? Or did we YAP too much in this video? It does take us longer to shoot the 30-min videos though so there wouldn't be as much weekly content.
Oh come on,I never needed to bag n tag everything,did it all from memory. Besides , everyone knows car makers always put Xtra bolts and wires w every car I disassemble. Now if you'll excuse I have to go wait for the towtruck. Lol. Merry Christmas dudes
The plastic canister under the intake manifold is a vacuum canister for the SAS (Secondary Air System or air bypass antilag) which is a factory antilag system used in Rally. But the SAS valve and exhaust side plumbing has been removed from your engine so it wont be doing anything. It is normally plumbed into the exhaust manifold where the two large banjo bolts have been blocked off. The system passes boost from the intake around the engine straight into the exhaust where the ECU adds extra fuel for combustion in the exhaust manifold to keep the turbo spinning when you lift off the throttle. The Knock Sensor should be fine unless you can see physical damage to it. Phantom knock is common in these cars as they can pick up all sorts of noise. Often this can be tuned out. But you guys really should get the service manual and there is a factory pdf manual online that was available for free, but it looks like that might be hard to find now.
You guys need to watch Jafromobile's Channel before starting your rebuild he has a huge wealth of knowledge on these engines with plenty of tips that will help
As long as you can afford new oem stuff. On alot or cars seems used oem sensors are as good or better then aftermarket new junk. Nissan crank/cam sensors are a great example of that. I think I've heard similar things of alot of mitsu sensors as well?
brass brush only, do not use stainless steel or steel brushes on aluminum. Use a brass wheel then spray it silver. otherwise it will re oxidize in litteraly a month. you could get it vapor blasted if you wanted to be super lazy.
I was yelling at the screen when you forgot to pull the half shaft, then when you had trouble with the throw out bearing (push style) glad you got em quick. Love this series.
Good choice to take advice from Andre at HP Academy, he was big in the New Zealand EVO tuning/building scene and held world records for 1/4 mile passes in his EVO3 DOCILE.
I have the GSC S1's in my 5. Kicking myself I didn't use S2's. Dont make the same mistake! S1's fall off too early in the powerband. When you're on the track, the engine is more often spun high.
Best way to remove the oxidation is a blast cabinet. Use steel shot, not sand! Sand gets everywhere. Steel shot is clean and reusable! Only issue with it is that you will need to replace the view finder more often as it wears it out quicker! Can't believe you guys don't have a good big blast cabinet in Canada with all the cold wet salty weather?
We're currently in the market for one. After this job we told ourselves its time to buy a blaster. Just trying to figure out which one is the best to get.
Love HP Academy. They're really getting out there and trying to show the world that engine building and tuning isn't witchcraft, it's a skill that anyone can learn if they put the effort in.
I’ve had good success in the past using lightly diluted standard white vinegar and a red 3m scuffing pad to remove most of the aluminum scale and finishing with a alloy wheel cleaner. For the toughest spots a soda blaster with a light abrasive works great before using the above method. Hope this helps!
I've used vapour blasting for gearbox casings before and they come up looking brand new! Plus it peens over the 'pores' of the aluminium a little which helps future cleaning and tends to prevent the casings being stained so much when oils and grease are dropped on them.
For the aluminum gearbox housing degreaser, wash it off, and then torch. The torch will also clear up the fine surface cracking. Weird, I know. It works great though.
Canister under the standard inlet is to do with the SAS (secondary air system) which yours doesn’t have. The 2 big bolts in the exhaust manifold are where the standard pipes went
Done it before, trust me cp pistons, upgraded wrist pins, carrello pro h rods, s2 cams and upgraded springs and retainers, oem gasket kit, don't forget to do the felt washers on the clutch arm + oem pully and belt kit + delete front and back balancer, turn down the front
I love the long format videos. It's great and very few channels do them. Also do reach out to jafromobile he knows everything about making power on these engines.
Heavy duty oven cleaner is great for tidying up cast aluminium. You don't want to leave it too long, but spray it on, covering the part in a thick foam, leave for a bit, then use a brush on it, hose off. Repeat if necessary
Hey guys, re balance shaft delete... Every time you delete the balance shafts you should be balancing your rotating assembly. That will keep it from rattling itself apart. I’m no expert myself but I did help and watch a master machinists build 30+ 4gs at my first job at an engine builder that specializes in these engines. Just my experience!
If the knock sensor doesn't have any signs of leakage (the notorious black goo), keep it. The conrods on 7 bolt 4G63 engine from DSM to Evo 6 are identical, and do not hold up to much power. From EVO 7 onwards Mitsubishi finally reinforced the conrods, which easily hold up to 450 crank horsepower. The pistons also got a redesign from Evo 7 and up, with better skirt coating. As for the emissions stuff, remove them all but keep them somewhere just in case your yearly inspection requires them. You can buy or make aftermarket EGR valve block off plates.
The spark system is ‘waist spark’ hence only 2 coils. The leads breaking is due to the rocker cover to spark plug tube seals weeping oil onto the plug leads. The seals are meant to be change every 45,000km Get ride of the waist spark and go for platinum racing product r35 grr coil kit and use a haltech to run the show. I also suggest a heat shield for the cam speed sensor as the heat from the exhaust manifold kills them regularly
OEM on all replacement parts. I just had Curt Brown (Curt Brown Racing) rebuild/port my Evo 8 head. If your going to keep the stock intake manifold, have it ported also. It is good for some decent power depending on how far it gets ported.
The Coils are a wasted spark setup. Two coils for four cylinders, whenever it needs to fire one cylinder to ignite the mixture in it, it also fires the other cylinder that is pushing exhaust out at that moment.
Go to a truck/trailer supply place or garage near you. Look for - Aluminum Trailer Cleaner and Restorer - A company named WAB makes the product I'm personally familiar with. That's the kind of thing to want to get for the trans case clean up. Just follow the directions and precautions from the manufacturer of the chem you use.
That's a waste spark ignition system that fires the plug on the power stroke AND the exhaust stroke. One coil fires 2 plugs on the same crank plane. One cylinder is on the power stroke and the other is on the exhaust stroke. And always twist boots loose before pulling straight out. If they're too far gone there's not much you can do about it anyways lol. Keep up the great content!
Would recommend going .5mm over bore on the cylinders and have the machinist set the correct piston to cylinder wall clearance based on the piston requirements, deck the block and head for good metal gasket seal and have the cams degreed after assembly to ensure cams are to spec
Hey guys. I'm a little late to the party but I wanted to say that I love the show. For removing the oxidation, Soda Blasting would be a good option if you haven't picked something up by now. It would just be a good asset for the shop because of how versatile it is for cleaning surfaces and removing rust/paint. Easy clean-up too. I also wanted to touch on the valves at 28:10 or so.. If I remember from the Abandoned STi build, the exhaust valves are made out of a metal called Inconel, which is a family of nickel-iron-chrome alloys that are engineered for pretty extreme conditions. The exact figures will depend on which alloy is used, but Inconel will maintain its strength at temperatures up to about 2000F (1093C for those outside the US). You'll find it used a lot for jet turbines and rocket nozzles.. and more recently as a high performance exhaust valve. It's pretty much a perfect match for the crazy high heat and pressure getting spit out of the cylinder of a boosted engine. It's also notoriously difficult to machine because it work hardens very easily.. making them very time consuming and expensive to produce. Totally worth the extra money if your building a performer engine though.
Eagle one mag wheel cleaner kicks ass on cast aluminum blocks/cases/wheels etc, heavy oxidation might need some scrubbin with a plastic or brass brush if needed but give that stuff a shot.
Since you mentioned the counter weights, personally if and when I do a rebuild like this I plan to balance the rotating parts example weighing the pistons and removing the material from the heavier pistons down to the weight of the lightest.
I believe at 29:10 those were valve spring retainer keepers and valve stem seals, valve guides get pressed in the head and for your application bronze would be a great choice for the material. Awesome video cant wait to see how everything comes together #teamDSM
6:25 HCl at about 25% per volume, aka Muriatic acid. Use a plastic bristol brush and some PPE: smock, gloves, and your face shield. Notes: The acid is not very powerful but the PPE will keep you from having itchy skin. Be prepared to wash it with lots of water (maybe a little baking soda to use less water). Don't freak out when backing soda and acid mix and then bubbles up like a science project volcano lol
I mean once you do it a few times and you have the right tools, the spark plugs ain’t too bad on Subaru’s but the Baja XT is still a huge pain in the ass for them. Either way, I love working on Subaru’s a lot more than Evos but that’s just me
You should do a minor port and polish that doesn’t remove a lot of material for a smoother flow and to gain some horsepower without sacrificing power on the low end
The timing belt cover is common to deform and get self clearenced by the gears on most 4g63 engines. My talon, my room mates talon, my brothers galanta vr4 and other talons ALL had that issue.
I love watching these vids. I'm learning heaps, but it's giving me so much anxiety wondering how you guys remember how to put everything back together and where everything goes.
In australia we have a product called Ali (i assume short for aluminium cleaner) by autosmart. You spray it on wait two-five minutes and hose it off and it can work wonders you have to be carefully because it can stain and destroy things. Highly recommend
Alumiprep 33 for aluminum oxidation removal and if you want to be baller use Allodine 1201 to treat the aluminum. These are use extensively on aluminum in aviation. (The Alodine will turn the aluminum yellow just FYI)
Make sure you also use version 3 hydraulic lifters so you have good oil flow to the valve train. Anddncheck out Jafro or DMS tuners for the oil port mod
If you plan on revving a 4g do not use revised lifters,4g63's are known for drainback issues and revised lifters do nothing but throw more oil in the head....
clean that trans with spray on oven cleaner, scrubber , lots of soapy water in a spray bottle, 10 bucks at dollarama will change your life. works on steel blocks but really brings aluminum back to life, will kill rtv so clean before you re gasket. also im local and will see you at tmp this spring!
This is gonna sound weird but most types of drain cleaner contain high concentrations of sodium hydroxide. That works well. And some degreasers also aren’t meant for aluminium and if u use them on there and just not let it sit for days it eats away most oxides.
Watching you try and wiggle that gearbox off wondering why the hell it won't come free... I did exactly the same thing. Then.... read the manual and pulled the inspection bungs out and popped the spring clip on the clutch plate hahaha! Well done guys great video!
Im not sure if they are still around, but in Ingersoll there was a place called Force Power that held a DSM world record at some point. They could be a world of knowledge.
I reckon replace as much as you can and clean up/restore the easier/larger pieces. You're doing a full teardown so might as well go all out and make sure you've got an engine that you know's gonna last
10:24 I've had that happen on my E30 M20 engine. I replaced the timing belt after I got it and it was so worn that it started slipping off the gears and pressing against the cover. The belt was actually 1/2 the diameter it was supposed to be.
FYI, talking with Ferrea they say the swirl pattern is just for looks really. They did testing and couldn't find any difference in flow with valves with swirls and those that don't.
I heard oven cleaner works really well, but tends to discolor the aluminium to a darker color. So if painting the trans is in the forecast, oven cleaner is the way to go....
The block needs to be bored and honed to some over sized pistons, the wear part way down the bore is from piston rock and there is some scoring on the one bore around the same area.
I've recovered transmission casings that looked like that, just by jet washing! Snow foam and then a blast with the lance and been amazed how good it's come up. It's quick, cheap and easy to try too, so nothing to lose?
That looks pretty normal for an evo6 4G63 although you guys might want to re prep the block because you might sacrifice ring seal. Don't forget to improve the oiling system too as much as you can to not run into oil starvation especially when you increase the power. Hp academy is awesome I have some of their courses and no words can explain how it takes the guess work out and provide you with best practices. They also have a sister company call Racecraft hq and it is all about car setup, vehicle dynamics, and driver training soon.
the 30 video was perfect! all the "deez nutz" jokes were funny😅 DP it's easier to pull when torquing and breaking torque bro 💪 and shout out to Andre and the good people at HPA💪
Check out some of the episodes on Jafromobile to get an idea of some of the particulars of the 4G63. I'm not sure why Pete's Talon shook like it did without balance shafts, but my guess is it was poorly balanced or had a bad timing belt tensioner and had nothing to do with the balance shafts themselves. The BS belt is a known failure point and the whole system is heavy and overdone. Get rid of them right, and you'll be happy. Also, you might look into the Kiggly HLA for the head oil pressure and might even hit up GSC for their lifters. You can also see a post on Jack's Transmissions talking about crank walk and rod bearings. I'm not sure how deep you want to get into the motor, but there are a ton of resources and "tricks" for making big reliable power out of the 4G63. Use them.
There shouldn't have been any wear on the skirts of the pistons. Wear on the piston skirts can indicate previous overheating issues, where the pistons expanded to the extent where the skirts rubbed against the walls. Another potential issue is the cylinder walls being oval-shaped, which can sometimes happen, either with real old engines or engines that overheated. This can be difficult for at-home mechanics to diagnose, as the tension from the cylinder head can be the reason behind the oval cylinders, sometimes some machine shops will use a tool that is like a cylinder head, but with access into the cylinders to machine the bores of the engine block. In this way, they can prevent the cylinders becoming oval shaped when the head is tightened against the block.
On a side note, Mitsubishi's often have cheap piston rings installed. They tend to wear out prematurely, and if the rings are wearing then so are the cylinder walls. I'd suggest a diagnosis from a trusted, professional machine shop.
I like to put bolts back in the holes they came out of as much as possible, which avoids issues from things having different bolt lengths in various holes.
That is another good method and I sometimes use it. Especially if I'm doing a smaller job on one particular component. I find that when you take alot of stuff apart it can be a little annoying and time consuming because you have to take the bolts back out before you can install anything, clean a surface etc. I like removing components, bagging the fasteners, labeling the bags and keeping them in a box or area with the component they go to. Labeling takes time too of course, but I personally like it better.
chickenfishhybrid44 I do it this way many time because I’m just too lazy to bag and tag lol. Plus I think having the bolts in the holes can help when the car is apart for a really long time. My car was apart for a month for my clutch replacement, and I got it all back together just last week with no missing bolts and nothing left over. 👍
@@Patrick94GSR right on, whatever works for you. It is definately an option. I always snap pictures with my phone before and during taking stuff apart too if it's a big job and I know it will be apart for a long time.
Nice work guys! It looks like you've actually got a good base motor to work with. Couple of things that I wanted to offer:
- I've found the best way of getting oxidised/filthy aluminium castings back to 'as new' condition is vapour blasting. Sand/media blasting gives a really coarse surface finish that tends to get dirty again really quick.
- That vac canister is part of the factory ALS system and you don't need it.
- The knock sensors on the EVO 4G63 engines are generally pretty reliable but of course if it's taken a hit or been visually damaged then all bets are off :)
- The 4G63 EVO4-9 run a waste spark ignition system and those coils are dual post coils - One side is like a conventional COP system and the other post runs to the lead. They are prone to heat related failure and given yours is now a 'two piece' coil I'd opt for replacing them and the leads with new.
- The wear on your bores and piston skirts looks pretty typical for what I'd expect to see from a high mileage motor. Nothing too worrying really. What I'd be more concerned about is any scratches you can feel with your finger nail. Ultimately it doesn't matter since you'd be best to use a 0.020" oversize forged piston which gives the machinist the opportunity to bore and hone the bores to get them back to perfectly round and true. It's also a good idea to have the block torque-plate honed as the bores do tend to distort a little on the 4G63 when the head is bolted down.
- I always removed the balance shafts on any performance build and provided the rest of the components are balanced by your machinist you shouldn't have any abnormal vibration levels. I don't remove them so much for power as reliability since it's one more belt that can fail. If you remove the shafts though don't just cut the shaft off the oil pump driven gear and block the oil hole as many do - This can result in oil pump failure. Instead you can have a machinist machine the counter weights off the balance shaft. This eliminates the weight but still supports the oil pump gear. The other shaft can simply be removed but you need to turn the balance shaft bearings to blank the oil gallery holes. A frost plug works well to blank the resulting hole in the front cover ;)
- As for your main bolts, personally I'd opt for a set of ARP main studs - In particular you'll often see fretting between the block and cradle with stock bolts in high power/high rpm engines so the ARP option is cheap insurance. In my experience the ARP studs don't distort the main bearing tunnel so there's no need to hone the tunnel.
Hope that helps and look forward to seeing the updates!
Thanks Andre! The good news is we recently ordered a vapor blaster, the bad news is we'll probably assemble this engine before it arrives. But our machinist did clean everything up nicely for us and based on his analysis he thinks we're ok to use the stock bores. I'll send you some detailed pics for your feedback, since it'd be great to get your input on this.
Pete seems determined not to delete the balance shaft, but I'll show him your input, as it makes perfect sense and we are upgrading to high quality internals that we will balance using your process. We will most certainly be using ARP main studs, already on the shelf here and ready to go!
Do you recommend balancing the crankshaft, flywheel and clutch combo for a mild(ish) build like this?
@@speedacademy as a rule we rebalanced all the rotating components in our 4G63 engines regardless whether they were moderate power road engines or circuit/drag engines. For lower rpm operation it wouldn't be considered strictly necessary since the components are already balanced by the factory, however we can work to a finer tolerance which can offer smoother operation. It's not something that will necessarily show a gain on the dyno but it can help improve engine life expectancy and give a smoother feeling engine at high rpm. It really comes down to your budget for the job and a bit of internal cost-benefit analysis.
For the record I’ve been cutting the shaft, and using a longer bolt to plug the hole in all my 4G63 builds and never had an oil pump failure even turning 10,000rpm. Also have never had the vibration even on stock bottom ends that Pete is referring to in this video. If it’s vibrating so bad that bolts are coming loose you have another problem. Just my two cents.
Did you all enjoy the longer 30-min format of this video? Or would you have preferred two 15-min videos? Or did we YAP too much in this video? It does take us longer to shoot the 30-min videos though so there wouldn't be as much weekly content.
keep them long
Loving your videos. 30 min is great. What's the model of that engine cart that you use to put engines in?
30 minute vids, please
30 Minutes is about the limit where I have to start splitting videos over multiple sittings. Love the longer format though.
The longer the better boys!
Oh come on,I never needed to bag n tag everything,did it all from memory. Besides , everyone knows car makers always put Xtra bolts and wires w every car I disassemble. Now if you'll excuse I have to go wait for the towtruck. Lol. Merry Christmas dudes
Eric Garrison 😆have a good one bro x
Its like saturday morning cartoons for adults!
Jake The Snake 😆
The plastic canister under the intake manifold is a vacuum canister for the SAS (Secondary Air System or air bypass antilag) which is a factory antilag system used in Rally. But the SAS valve and exhaust side plumbing has been removed from your engine so it wont be doing anything. It is normally plumbed into the exhaust manifold where the two large banjo bolts have been blocked off. The system passes boost from the intake around the engine straight into the exhaust where the ECU adds extra fuel for combustion in the exhaust manifold to keep the turbo spinning when you lift off the throttle.
The Knock Sensor should be fine unless you can see physical damage to it. Phantom knock is common in these cars as they can pick up all sorts of noise. Often this can be tuned out. But you guys really should get the service manual and there is a factory pdf manual online that was available for free, but it looks like that might be hard to find now.
You guys need to watch Jafromobile's Channel before starting your rebuild he has a huge wealth of knowledge on these engines with plenty of tips that will help
If in doubt replace all the sensors. It’s a while your in there thing. Better now than pulling it all back apart after.
Yeah, do EVERY sensor.
And hose
Hell, brand new wiring harness. The insulation is probably starting to harden and crack.
@@jameshaulenbeek5931 wiring specialties
As long as you can afford new oem stuff. On alot or cars seems used oem sensors are as good or better then aftermarket new junk.
Nissan crank/cam sensors are a great example of that. I think I've heard similar things of alot of mitsu sensors as well?
brass brush only, do not use stainless steel or steel brushes on aluminum. Use a brass wheel then spray it silver. otherwise it will re oxidize in litteraly a month. you could get it vapor blasted if you wanted to be super lazy.
I was yelling at the screen when you forgot to pull the half shaft, then when you had trouble with the throw out bearing (push style) glad you got em quick. Love this series.
Good choice to take advice from Andre at HP Academy, he was big in the New Zealand EVO tuning/building scene and held world records for 1/4 mile passes in his EVO3 DOCILE.
Dry ice blasting should be the way to go. Not abrasive and not that much of a mess.
This works wonders. its what i used.
I would love to see you guys find a dry ice blaster/rental. Those things are insanely useful and are exactly what is needed here.
Use dry ice blaster at work. Works great and no worries about the blast media as it evaporates.
Eagle one etching wheel cleaner will make cast aluminum look brand new
@@david92xj Thanks for the tip, going to check it out.
I have the GSC S1's in my 5. Kicking myself I didn't use S2's. Dont make the same mistake! S1's fall off too early in the powerband. When you're on the track, the engine is more often spun high.
Andre at HP Academy is great, awesome channel!
I could watch you guys for hours. One of my absolute favorite RUclips channels.
Best way to remove the oxidation is a blast cabinet. Use steel shot, not sand! Sand gets everywhere. Steel shot is clean and reusable! Only issue with it is that you will need to replace the view finder more often as it wears it out quicker! Can't believe you guys don't have a good big blast cabinet in Canada with all the cold wet salty weather?
We're currently in the market for one. After this job we told ourselves its time to buy a blaster. Just trying to figure out which one is the best to get.
@@speedacademy I have heard good things about a psbc990.
Probably worth throwing in some new syncro's in the Transmission too.
Love HP Academy. They're really getting out there and trying to show the world that engine building and tuning isn't witchcraft, it's a skill that anyone can learn if they put the effort in.
I’ve had good success in the past using lightly diluted standard white vinegar and a red 3m scuffing pad to remove most of the aluminum scale and finishing with a alloy wheel cleaner. For the toughest spots a soda blaster with a light abrasive works great before using the above method. Hope this helps!
Read the “friendly” manual. I have RTFM on a tshirt (I’m in IT)
I've used vapour blasting for gearbox casings before and they come up looking brand new! Plus it peens over the 'pores' of the aluminium a little which helps future cleaning and tends to prevent the casings being stained so much when oils and grease are dropped on them.
For the aluminum gearbox housing degreaser, wash it off, and then torch. The torch will also clear up the fine surface cracking. Weird, I know. It works great though.
Canister under the standard inlet is to do with the SAS (secondary air system) which yours doesn’t have. The 2 big bolts in the exhaust manifold are where the standard pipes went
Done it before, trust me cp pistons, upgraded wrist pins, carrello pro h rods, s2 cams and upgraded springs and retainers, oem gasket kit, don't forget to do the felt washers on the clutch arm + oem pully and belt kit + delete front and back balancer, turn down the front
I love the long format videos. It's great and very few channels do them. Also do reach out to jafromobile he knows everything about making power on these engines.
Yep, love this channel. Really love this channel! Did I say that I LOVE THIS CHANNEL!!!!!!? 🙌
Also should have gone S2 cams. More power and almost no loss over S1’s.
Heavy duty oven cleaner is great for tidying up cast aluminium. You don't want to leave it too long, but spray it on, covering the part in a thick foam, leave for a bit, then use a brush on it, hose off. Repeat if necessary
Hey guys, re balance shaft delete... Every time you delete the balance shafts you should be balancing your rotating assembly. That will keep it from rattling itself apart. I’m no expert myself but I did help and watch a master machinists build 30+ 4gs at my first job at an engine builder that specializes in these engines. Just my experience!
It looks like piston slap. You will prob find the bores are out of round. Make sure to get some skirt coated pistons.
If the knock sensor doesn't have any signs of leakage (the notorious black goo), keep it. The conrods on 7 bolt 4G63 engine from DSM to Evo 6 are identical, and do not hold up to much power. From EVO 7 onwards Mitsubishi finally reinforced the conrods, which easily hold up to 450 crank horsepower. The pistons also got a redesign from Evo 7 and up, with better skirt coating. As for the emissions stuff, remove them all but keep them somewhere just in case your yearly inspection requires them. You can buy or make aftermarket EGR valve block off plates.
The spark system is ‘waist spark’ hence only 2 coils. The leads breaking is due to the rocker cover to spark plug tube seals weeping oil onto the plug leads. The seals are meant to be change every 45,000km
Get ride of the waist spark and go for platinum racing product r35 grr coil kit and use a haltech to run the show.
I also suggest a heat shield for the cam speed sensor as the heat from the exhaust manifold kills them regularly
DP "Yer doin' great with that transmission there, bud!"
For a 4g63t you always need to make the cam gears purple and get a clear cover
CLR and Vinegar works OK when I did that on a similar trans. Just don't soak any of the bolts as it seems to eat the anti-corrosion coating.
OEM on all replacement parts. I just had Curt Brown (Curt Brown Racing) rebuild/port my Evo 8 head. If your going to keep the stock intake manifold, have it ported also. It is good for some decent power depending on how far it gets ported.
Piston skirt wear is normal, if you look at all good aftermarket units they all use special blends of coatings to help combat the problem.
Moral of the story: Let the stance folks stance it, buy it for cheap, turn it into a beast.
Balance shaft delete isn't just freeing up hp, they can and have broken off in the block. I've done them on the weak-o-tecs and 4g's a few times.
The Coils are a wasted spark setup. Two coils for four cylinders, whenever it needs to fire one cylinder to ignite the mixture in it, it also fires the other cylinder that is pushing exhaust out at that moment.
Go to a truck/trailer supply place or garage near you. Look for - Aluminum Trailer Cleaner and Restorer - A company named WAB makes the product I'm personally familiar with. That's the kind of thing to want to get for the trans case clean up. Just follow the directions and precautions from the manufacturer of the chem you use.
That's a waste spark ignition system that fires the plug on the power stroke AND the exhaust stroke. One coil fires 2 plugs on the same crank plane. One cylinder is on the power stroke and the other is on the exhaust stroke. And always twist boots loose before pulling straight out. If they're too far gone there's not much you can do about it anyways lol. Keep up the great content!
Would recommend going .5mm over bore on the cylinders and have the machinist set the correct piston to cylinder wall clearance based on the piston requirements, deck the block and head for good metal gasket seal and have the cams degreed after assembly to ensure cams are to spec
Hey guys. I'm a little late to the party but I wanted to say that I love the show.
For removing the oxidation, Soda Blasting would be a good option if you haven't picked something up by now. It would just be a good asset for the shop because of how versatile it is for cleaning surfaces and removing rust/paint. Easy clean-up too.
I also wanted to touch on the valves at 28:10 or so.. If I remember from the Abandoned STi build, the exhaust valves are made out of a metal called Inconel, which is a family of nickel-iron-chrome alloys that are engineered for pretty extreme conditions. The exact figures will depend on which alloy is used, but Inconel will maintain its strength at temperatures up to about 2000F (1093C for those outside the US). You'll find it used a lot for jet turbines and rocket nozzles.. and more recently as a high performance exhaust valve. It's pretty much a perfect match for the crazy high heat and pressure getting spit out of the cylinder of a boosted engine. It's also notoriously difficult to machine because it work hardens very easily.. making them very time consuming and expensive to produce. Totally worth the extra money if your building a performer engine though.
Eagle one mag wheel cleaner kicks ass on cast aluminum blocks/cases/wheels etc, heavy oxidation might need some scrubbin with a plastic or brass brush if needed but give that stuff a shot.
No need for a manual, just flight in Jafromobile
Or Turbo Tom
Brass polish and elbow grease. I use brass polish on all kinds of metals to make them shiny.
The vacuum reservoir is not strictly emissions related. Its required for the solonoids to operate whilst the engine is making boost
Since you mentioned the counter weights, personally if and when I do a rebuild like this I plan to balance the rotating parts example weighing the pistons and removing the material from the heavier pistons down to the weight of the lightest.
I believe at 29:10 those were valve spring retainer keepers and valve stem seals, valve guides get pressed in the head and for your application bronze would be a great choice for the material. Awesome video cant wait to see how everything comes together #teamDSM
Brilliant channel, looking forward to the next episode. Merry Christmas to you.
6:25 HCl at about 25% per volume, aka Muriatic acid. Use a plastic bristol brush and some PPE: smock, gloves, and your face shield.
Notes: The acid is not very powerful but the PPE will keep you from having itchy skin. Be prepared to wash it with lots of water (maybe a little baking soda to use less water). Don't freak out when backing soda and acid mix and then bubbles up like a science project volcano lol
"wouldn't take 4 hours" I can attest to that. I hated working on both my STi and Forrester XT.
I mean once you do it a few times and you have the right tools, the spark plugs ain’t too bad on Subaru’s but the Baja XT is still a huge pain in the ass for them. Either way, I love working on Subaru’s a lot more than Evos but that’s just me
EGR and any emission related stuff can be deleted. CEL can be removed as well.
You should do a minor port and polish that doesn’t remove a lot of material for a smoother flow and to gain some horsepower without sacrificing power on the low end
Merry Christmas, Dave (DP) and Pete (PT)! Keep up creating great, and educational, content.
The timing belt cover is common to deform and get self clearenced by the gears on most 4g63 engines. My talon, my room mates talon, my brothers galanta vr4 and other talons ALL had that issue.
Awesome video! You guys deserve a million plus subscribers
I love watching these vids. I'm learning heaps, but it's giving me so much anxiety wondering how you guys remember how to put everything back together and where everything goes.
We struggle putting them together! Always looking for bolts and parts
In australia we have a product called Ali (i assume short for aluminium cleaner) by autosmart. You spray it on wait two-five minutes and hose it off and it can work wonders you have to be carefully because it can stain and destroy things. Highly recommend
Alumiprep 33 for aluminum oxidation removal and if you want to be baller use Allodine 1201 to treat the aluminum. These are use extensively on aluminum in aviation. (The Alodine will turn the aluminum yellow just FYI)
Make sure you also use version 3 hydraulic lifters so you have good oil flow to the valve train. Anddncheck out Jafro or DMS tuners for the oil port mod
If you plan on revving a 4g do not use revised lifters,4g63's are known for drainback issues and revised lifters do nothing but throw more oil in the head....
clean that trans with spray on oven cleaner, scrubber , lots of soapy water in a spray bottle, 10 bucks at dollarama will change your life. works on steel blocks but really brings aluminum back to life, will kill rtv so clean before you re gasket. also im local and will see you at tmp this spring!
This is gonna sound weird but most types of drain cleaner contain high concentrations of sodium hydroxide. That works well. And some degreasers also aren’t meant for aluminium and if u use them on there and just not let it sit for days it eats away most oxides.
Watching you try and wiggle that gearbox off wondering why the hell it won't come free... I did exactly the same thing. Then.... read the manual and pulled the inspection bungs out and popped the spring clip on the clutch plate hahaha! Well done guys great video!
check out Jafromobile he knows 4g63 stuff really well
25:04 YES! May I add that you should be using a thread chaser and not a normal tap. Good info.
Im not sure if they are still around, but in Ingersoll there was a place called Force Power that held a DSM world record at some point. They could be a world of knowledge.
You know you're a good mechanic when you can put it all back together and have some bolts left over 😂😂
12:52 aye HPA bros
I reckon replace as much as you can and clean up/restore the easier/larger pieces. You're doing a full teardown so might as well go all out and make sure you've got an engine that you know's gonna last
You noticed oil in the intake and piston skirts scuffed. Rings were well worn causing blow by and positive crank case ventilation.
10:24 I've had that happen on my E30 M20 engine. I replaced the timing belt after I got it and it was so worn that it started slipping off the gears and pressing against the cover. The belt was actually 1/2 the diameter it was supposed to be.
I have used good Ol' vinegar and a rag, lemon and salt. As well you can check out Meguiars Marine RV heavy duty oxidation remover.
Use acid wheel cleaner on the aluminum. Works wonders on removing light surface rust staining as well
The bottle of acid is significantly cheaper and it has other uses around a shop. Just my two cents.
FYI, talking with Ferrea they say the swirl pattern is just for looks really. They did testing and couldn't find any difference in flow with valves with swirls and those that don't.
I heard oven cleaner works really well, but tends to discolor the aluminium to a darker color. So if painting the trans is in the forecast, oven cleaner is the way to go....
I had my cylinder head soad blasted. It looks brand new and doesnt affect clearances like sand blasting would
To remove oxidation from aluminum, spray a diluted mixture of drain cleaner and water 1/10 ratio. Let it sit for 3 mins and rinse it with water.
The block needs to be bored and honed to some over sized pistons, the wear part way down the bore is from piston rock and there is some scoring on the one bore around the same area.
A liquid aluminum brightener/ cleaner works great to clean the trans up.
Aluminum jelly used to work great to remove oxidation on aluminum boat trailers.
Open ended wrenches need to be used in the correct direction depending whether you're loosening or tightening. That's how you strip bolts and nuts!!
Dry ice blasting. But I remember there being rid converters.
btw its a wasted spark setup, meaning cylinder 1 - 4 and 2 - 3 always fire at the same time (even if they are on the wrong stroke)
Use Eagle One Mag Wheel Cleaner. You will have to paint or clear coat it after.
I've recovered transmission casings that looked like that, just by jet washing! Snow foam and then a blast with the lance and been amazed how good it's come up. It's quick, cheap and easy to try too, so nothing to lose?
For more leverage just put a socket and an extension over the end of wrench. Killer video dudes
Best channel on youtube. Love this build. Can't wait to here it rip.
Walnut shell blasting gives a nice finish or glass bead
Napa aluminum brightener could help with it just watch using it around steel parts
Change the knock sensor and the ever more troublesome cam angle sensors also if that helps cheers
That looks pretty normal for an evo6 4G63 although you guys might want to re prep the block because you might sacrifice ring seal. Don't forget to improve the oiling system too as much as you can to not run into oil starvation especially when you increase the power. Hp academy is awesome I have some of their courses and no words can explain how it takes the guess work out and provide you with best practices. They also have a sister company call Racecraft hq and it is all about car setup, vehicle dynamics, and driver training soon.
The goose neck toilet cleaner from the dollar tree works amazing at taking corrosion and rust off of all metal especially chrome
the 30 video was perfect! all the "deez nutz" jokes were funny😅 DP it's easier to pull when torquing and breaking torque bro 💪 and shout out to Andre and the good people at HPA💪
Check out some of the episodes on Jafromobile to get an idea of some of the particulars of the 4G63. I'm not sure why Pete's Talon shook like it did without balance shafts, but my guess is it was poorly balanced or had a bad timing belt tensioner and had nothing to do with the balance shafts themselves. The BS belt is a known failure point and the whole system is heavy and overdone. Get rid of them right, and you'll be happy. Also, you might look into the Kiggly HLA for the head oil pressure and might even hit up GSC for their lifters. You can also see a post on Jack's Transmissions talking about crank walk and rod bearings. I'm not sure how deep you want to get into the motor, but there are a ton of resources and "tricks" for making big reliable power out of the 4G63. Use them.
Merry Christmas! I like the longer more involved videos, good job
There shouldn't have been any wear on the skirts of the pistons. Wear on the piston skirts can indicate previous overheating issues, where the pistons expanded to the extent where the skirts rubbed against the walls. Another potential issue is the cylinder walls being oval-shaped, which can sometimes happen, either with real old engines or engines that overheated. This can be difficult for at-home mechanics to diagnose, as the tension from the cylinder head can be the reason behind the oval cylinders, sometimes some machine shops will use a tool that is like a cylinder head, but with access into the cylinders to machine the bores of the engine block. In this way, they can prevent the cylinders becoming oval shaped when the head is tightened against the block.
On a side note, Mitsubishi's often have cheap piston rings installed. They tend to wear out prematurely, and if the rings are wearing then so are the cylinder walls. I'd suggest a diagnosis from a trusted, professional machine shop.
I like to put bolts back in the holes they came out of as much as possible, which avoids issues from things having different bolt lengths in various holes.
That is another good method and I sometimes use it. Especially if I'm doing a smaller job on one particular component. I find that when you take alot of stuff apart it can be a little annoying and time consuming because you have to take the bolts back out before you can install anything, clean a surface etc.
I like removing components, bagging the fasteners, labeling the bags and keeping them in a box or area with the component they go to. Labeling takes time too of course, but I personally like it better.
chickenfishhybrid44 I do it this way many time because I’m just too lazy to bag and tag lol. Plus I think having the bolts in the holes can help when the car is apart for a really long time. My car was apart for a month for my clutch replacement, and I got it all back together just last week with no missing bolts and nothing left over. 👍
@@Patrick94GSR right on, whatever works for you. It is definately an option. I always snap pictures with my phone before and during taking stuff apart too if it's a big job and I know it will be apart for a long time.
Get it soda blasted comes out really good, then paint it to stop it coming back
Looks solid boys keep up the good work and have a good Christmas. 👍