Restoring A 1948 Keller Super Chief Woodie | Episode 5
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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2023
- Since this car sat for 60+ years everything is in dire need of restoration but with so many parts to restore where do you start. I want to have as much ready for the frame once it is fixed in the next few weeks so then I can start assembling all of the parts that are clean and ready.
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That axle is a late 40s civilian model 23 Spicer from a willys wagon, willys DJ delivery jeep(civilian or military) or Kaiser-willys overlander jeepster for sure! Thats a willys stamp, the later dana-spicer had a triangle stamp. Rare axle as they were considdered weak and were mostly all ruined over the years. there is a difference between the model 23 and 23-2
I was going to mention the same thing. Should talk to Low Buck Garage, he knows about these. But from what I remember from my uncle's old 43 willy's, the entire axle comes out as a half shaft. But don't hold me to that, that was 30+ years ago the last time I saw him take the axle apart.
With 4 lugs? And tiny drums? I think it’s likely crosley
@@hotrodZack1948 I think he determined it was a hybrid of sorts, housing from willyz and half shafts from a packard or something, I forget, but Dave mentioned it on the video of him tearing it down
This restoration is really unique. I’m really enjoying it.
With your porosity on that oil filter bottom... Clean it with Muratic acid then give it a skim coat of lead body solder to fill in the bad spots.. Even fill in around the washer.. Propane torch works the best, way cleaner.. You can use the solder like body filler to fill all the bad spots and sand sand it smooth after. And it will seal all the holes :) .. Great video thanks
Well done, beautiful work.
I would love to see this back on the road in its glory. Its in good hands.
It will be a good journey
@ 7:45 - 8:00 .. Thats a brilliant way to dry.. damn . I put a space heater in my little shed to dry/cure paint .
The care you put into your work is outstanding.
I remember having a Woodie in my youth.I miss those days..
Wow Dave! You are boosting your knowledge and attention to detail to a whole new level. This build is coming out awesome. Great work! God bless.
Much appreciated! Thanks
A few more small steps in the process of restoring this rare vehicle. Good to see you using a proper brake pipe spanner on the brake piles. Almost everyone uses an open end spanner and this often results in rounding the nut. The way you are going with this restoration, it will be finished before the hellwagon. It's quite interesting to see your progress on all your builds. Unfortunately, everything takes time and there never seems to be enough of that in the day. Before you know it, another year has passed.
PB Blaster & liberal application of heat to the shaft area to pop the drums off the rear axles. PB Blaster is your friend with work like this!
Great video, Dave, thanks man!
Iwata art supplies are my fave in any size
My go to when faced with an iguana like your oil filter housing is soldering the leaks. The tin will creep into the porosities and seal up 100 %
Amazing stuff man I love to see classic cars brought back to life
Nice work Dave!!! I think people (me) love this small attentions to detail. Great to give Cerakote a big shout out. Clearly a great product. Awesome work. ✌️✌️✌️
Grats on 200k Dave! you deserve it.
To pull the hub/brake drum off the axle you use a hub puller. Usually 3 legs bolt to the studs and the center bolt pushes on the axle to pull the hub off.
New Mexico love!!!!!!
There is a slot on the backing plate (there should be a rubber seal in the slot). Put a screwdriver in the slot and back off the tensioner. Then you should be able to remove the brake drums.
Lisle sells a tap holder socket set - sure beats using a crescent wrench for tapping things.
My dad passed away a couple years back. He had a couple guns that were fairly pitted. I didn't cerakote them but I did hit it with some stuff to get the rust and pits out then blu them. They look brand spanking new
Glad to follow you on this car ...luv it my friend thanks for sharing 👍 🙏 😊 ❤
Loving the restoration! Cant wait for more!
You really should think about pressure washing stuff before tearing it apart. Being able to see can often save you a lot of work and aggravation.
He did, David, he did. Watch the first video.
Love you're eye for detail. Looking forward to the rest of the build.
Superb, a work of art.
Great progress on the Keller. Can't wait to see on the floor and rolling.
*GRUMMPA SEZ:* Take a three pound hammer and whack the drum a couple good licks and it should pop loose like the tapered shaft on a tie rod end.
1:36. Personally, I'd never dismantle something like that without cleaning it first.
Awesome content Dave. Thanks for sharing.
Keep up the great work. When it is finished it will be a stunning car.
that diff looked brand new on the inside wow
Great job Dave can’t wait for the rest of the videos.
Very interesting restoration!
For the oil filter housing check out Caswell Fuel Tank Sealer
Oil Filter case and cartridge, contact Fram directly. They DO have the drawings on hand, and can make a replacement on special order, or provide you with drawings so you can have it made. If anything Fram will demand to remake a classic oil filter system for a classic car.
Nice job on those parts
That rear suspension design is nuts, kind of like a De Dion setup but with a rubber isolated solid axle instead of an independent axle.
You need a hub puller! You also need to leave the nut on the end of the axle!!!! It can mushroom the axle also when the drum comes loose it can be violent! What you need to do is leave the nut flush with the end of the axle shaft put the hub puller on and tighten it down, then hammer the end of the puller and the drum will pop right off. The axle is likely a crosley.
Usually use a slide hammer with a wheel attachment.
Knee action shock absorbers were on British sports cars they might be the same, the car was made from parts bins of other cars, so you will have to think outside of the box
I would use a hydraulic puller. Tapered shafts can be a real pain.
Looking Amazing 👊👊👊👊
Thanks
A while back, Hot Rod Garage had a guest whose shop was named Crafty-B or something of that nature. I remember Finnegan talking to about his work machining and putting together torsion suspensions for Model T hotrods. Even showed a working example. I need to see what episode it was but that may be a route to check.
I love your show. look fro a break ajuster on the back side of the break drum. to back in off to loosen up the breaks.
It will be easer to get a used rearend with a 4 link. you will save a lot of time and money and have newer parts. it will make it easer and you can not see under the car.
Nice
That’s an early Dana or a late spicer model 23.. you need a drum puller for press on hubs
he's back! hi Dave 😊
I'm from New York and they have a junkyard there called howbills that makes hard stuff to find. For old car s or they know someone that does have the parts lve used them myself and they are good. Good show as always thank you kindly
I have the tool to remove those rear drums and plenty of experience doing that type work. With that said; seeing as there is no replacment parts if something were to go wrong, and if it were my project, I would take it to a machine shop to have the work done.
You almost have 200k subscribers now!
You rock!
Episode 20: Hi guys, so im strapping this 64mm turbo on the Keller Superchief.😋
I`ve heard that one way to loosen the rear drums is to back off the axle nuts and drive around until they pop loose, you`ll hear it when they do. You`d have to wait until the the car was back in running condition but it`s an option when all else fails.
If the drums are anything like what my old ford has, there are bolts on the back plate which holds the bearing carrier on. I used this as an alternative because the drum itself was seized to the tapered shaft
Dave I don’t know if you know hagerty’s has one of those cars that they either restored or acquired in the condition it is in.enjoy the restoration,nice to see someone keep someone’s dream alive.great video,keep doing what your doing.kudos 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Haggerty doesn't have a Keller. There are only 3 others and all 3 are within an hour drive of me. Where do you people come up with these ridiculous claims? Almost as bad as the guy a couple videos back who claimed that one of these had sold at auction recently for over a million dollars.
Regarding the Fram filter housing, I've seen "similar' filters on old oil fired furnaces. So maybe check with some furnace repair companies or heating oil supply companies.
Coil spring rear is pretty trick for '48.
Looks like a Dana axle, the 23 means Dana 23 most likely. At least the differential portion...
nice work! suspension parts remind of old school cooper mini suspension parts, maybe someone in that community can help you out.
Those 2 piece shafts are a pain when they rust together., I've had some luck w tensioning the drum on a big 3 jaw and cooking the taper and quenching a couple cycles.
For the bushings you can order liquid polyurethane or rubber and so long as ya can jig it up right it works well. Had to make some isolators for boats that way.
A very interesting car. Loving to see all the details this car has. This definitely is not an ox cart special with a motor in it. It actually has some pretty cool engineering in it. But darn, why does everything have to be painted hide me black?
Dave I dont know if you figured out the master cylinder yet but its a (A-556) for a 41-48 willys jeep.
Yay, I'm here for it!!!. Where did you find the decals for the Fram C4A filter housing? That's awesome.
You need to use a wheel puller get it real tight as you can with your hands. ( then only then ) is the part where you need to use a B F H tool. Then repeat as needed.
Any updates on the process or too many other projects going on? Good luck and all the best!
Apple hydraulic. For the old shocks. You can have them restored. There located in New York state
When you have the puller fitted, when it is under pressure give the end where the nut is for tightening the puller a good sharp hit with a hammer and the shock should loosen the hub off the shaft ? You may need to hit it a couple of times or so, to achieve the movement?
The brakes they're probably extended beyond the lip of the drum. This happened with a VW bug on another channel, see if there's any way to manually adjust the brakes from the backside
And sometimes heat has to be applied to the drum to get it to release from the axel
the brake shoes are stuck to the brake drum. Back the brake star wheel so the shoes will close.there should be a small window at the reverse side of the brake mounting plate. use a brake spoon and a small screw driver to move the the brake adjusting lever away from the star wheel. then use the spoon to rotate the wheel. which direction? i think you go up. start at the bottom of the star and move it up.
Pretty sure this is too old to have self adjusters so just the spring will be holding the star wheel. Make sure the brakes are backed off put the puller on with some tension. Give the end of the puller a whack or two with a heavy hammer. If all else fails, try some heat on the taper on the brake drum.
Still no updates)?). Don’t leave us hanging !
I recommend contacting Quick Performance about the rear axle. They are in Iowa.
I'm thinking that the rear axle is either Rambler or early Dodge, I owned both, and they're both a pain in the ass to take apart, but it looks very familiar.
There is a video on a Dodge Fargo rear drum removal. It shows the puller.
I've pulled the drums from tapered axles on a 62(?) Dodge. I used a puller with a slugging arm to power the jacking screw. Beat the crap out of the slugging pad to put tension on drum taper. Then use torch heat on the hub, it'll let go. Keep out of the line of fire, cause it might just POP off with force. For me, I had trouble with the left side. I beat the hell out of the slugging arm pad, I stepped back to regroup and catch my breath. I was just standing there thinking about what to do next, when it just blew off of the axle shaft. It flew about 3ft. It could have done some damage if I had been standing closer.
Tried to post link but it wouldn't let me
You can pull the center pin held in with a bolt ,push the drunk in a little bit and then pull axel and drum out place a board like oak hard wood on the ground and invert the axel and of corse drop it quit hard on the oak and the drum will dislodge from the axel
CHECK THE AXLES IN THE DIFF MAY BE A CLIP HOLDING THEM IN
So far it's looking great. Can't wait until you get into working on the body.
Are you doing the woodwork yourself or finding someone else to work on it? 🚗🚗🚗
It can be a bit destructive (check first if replacement drums available), but if there is a lip worn into a drum and you can;t remove it for love nor money. You can do this : drill a hole in the stud mating surface halfway between 2 studs (so it presses against the inner flange , a decent size say 10mm , then tap that hole to the matching thread for a sacrificial bolt you have. Then get your impact and run the bolt in, and it should start pressing the the drum away from the flange (You may have to drill/tap a second bolt hole on the opposite flange side to work each side off evenly) and hopefully brute force the drum the hell outta there. You might even be able to use the drum again, just if your OCD you will see the extra holes there everytime you need to remove a wheel. Some older cars actually have the threaded holes there from factory for just that very reason! Have at it!!
Is the axle held in with clips in the pumpkin like GM does?
Try Apple Hydraulics for those shock absorbers
onconventional all the way but thats the way that i do it and its works the best for you too ...nice work my friend
That m looks like the insignia of an old Morris minor car I wonder if they use the axle out of it and modified it
Drum ,& lugs may cme off first. Then put lugs back on with castle nut to pull axel
Check out Rat Rod Bob. He used liquid rubber for a 47 Ford
you need a old chrysler type drum puller
Hi ,whats the plan on the next stage of the charger?
id just sock with penetrating oil the tapered axles old fords and mopar'es have simaler issues be genital bit of heat bit more oil and keep under pressure its not rocket science just takes a while, hope we see a keller chef t shirt in swag soon
Hey Dave, would cerakote be a good choice for the underside of a truck cab? Ill be welding some new inner and outer rocker panels on my 80s Chevy. Wanted to paint it underneath with something heavy duth to keep them from rotting away again.
You can powdercoat or raptor line the bottom of a cab. Cerakote is a bit more expensive for such a large area
@@Junkyard_Dave Thanks! I do remember you raptor lining undersides in other video. I appreciate you reminding me. I enjoy all your projects always impressive.
Since the rear was out of the car would it really have been so hard to pressure wash the rear before tearing it a part so that the dirt and sludge on the outside of the housing wouldn't fall inside the housing when thhee cover was taken off.
Don't you just love the simplicity of older vehicles? Vehicles now days are so engineered. It's not even funny.There is absolutely no reason for it.
Appreciate the lengths you’re going to with this restoration however I did cringe slightly when you were filing down the casting marks on the pedals. Believe it or not but that small rib you filed down was actually providing some strength and stress relief to the inside corner of the elbow. If you have filed it down flush and have a sharp inside corner you will have increased the chances of a crack developing. A bit theoretical I know but just be aware keep it a smooth transition at changes of direction to not introduce higher concentrations of stress.
That rear end (axle) seems to me like an Dana 44.
Why can't you furnace solder the oil can or braze the inside?
have you considered polyurethane casting to repair the rotten rubber components?????
Your grinding on this project , are alot of the parts salvageable? I'd say its impossible to find parts
I mean, ultimately anything that can't be replaced can be remade. Not alot of stuff on these old cars that a good machine shop or at worst foundry can't reproduce.
@@Skwisgar2322 very true , America seems like a good place for that sort of thing, don't have the resources over here for that
Apple Hydraulics can rebuild those shocks.
I read bad things about them ruining knee shocks
@@Junkyard_Dave Interesting. We just had 2 sets done by them and they did a great job.
@brandonoswald2392 that's good to hear I might try them
Not for nothing, but apart from the mounting bracket welded on it from the factory, both of my ford's oil canisters look pretty near identical to the one you have there, though i may have to look at them again to verify. Don't a lot of old diesel and 1950s cars use a very similar or identical canister?
hey man that diff looks awfully like a M38 Willys rear diff,
Yeah it looks like the inner is Willys and the outer is something else
Try a classic Porsche and vw place those fram filters were used on them I used to have one on my old 54 beetle
I thought this stuff was excess willys after the war engine and diff
I think they used stuff from everything it has ford truck parts on it too