@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 what’s the best undercoating now in black ? I wish I lived closer I’d just have you do it . But I believe here in Tennessee no one around so it’s up to me .
My Dad used to change his own oil and saved the old oil and spray all the old oil into the fender wells and doors...anywhere he could get the oil can with a pumper on it. His cars never rusted! This was in Northern VT.
I called a few places in my area to get my brand new 22 Durango undercoated and got quoted 3-4k from various places. I said F that and went to harbor freight and got 50 bucks of lanolin based blaster surface shield 5 cans and did it myself. I have no problem supporting local business but common let's get realistic it's not rocket science a monkey can spray the bottom of a vehicle.
@@Mountain-Man-3000 Here's how it works. They ask the year make and model of your vehicle then after calculating what your vehicle might be worth they estimate how much they can screw you for. Basically this guy has money so Jack the price up.
I had an 88 S10 Blazer "undercoated" at a state prison autobody hobby shop in 1993, 55 miles from the shop shown in this video and the Blazer HAS NEVER RUSTED ANYWHERE to this day, I still own it! The miracle product, 50-50 mix ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) and 80-90 gear oil. The Shop instructor did my vehicle for 43.00 dollars all in. I have used this mix since then and have experienced OUTSTANDING years long protection in the northern snow and salt. TRY IT YOURSELF! A pressure pot such as the one you would use to spray your garden for bugs it what the shop instructor used and I now use myself.
Yes you can use the atf from your annually transmission pump out and som chain bar oil or differential fluid and a little kerosene but wear an oil approved respirator and goggles
He kept forgetting to mention the most detrimental aspect of rubberized coatings, which is the fact that they seal in the moisture which actually accelerates everything rusting underneath the coating. It's like having an infected wound on your body and just covering it up with makeup letting it fester underneath instead of treating it with an anti-bacterial ointment. The oil products like they use are absolutely superior and truly stop the rust process. The only downside are they can drip a little, are a bit messy and don't look quite as good, but all minor things. The real issue is stopping the corrosion and saving your vehicle from an early grave, which all the oil based products like Fluid Film, NH Oil, etc do marvelously. I recently had my F150 undercoating with Back-n-Black NH Oil and it came out great. There's some odor and some smoking where it gets on the exhaust, at first, but that goes away. Looks so much better underneath, not seeing all that surface rust anymore, and I feel so much better knowing I've stopped the corrosion and saved my truck.
I've worked on autos that looked great with rubber undercoating. Until u push on it and it's held in all the water and salt and no metal is left. Oil, trans fluid, grease and wax ring gasket. 1 time a year.
Thank you for this reply! I just had my 2012 Toyota Tundra undercoated with Berkebile oil undercoat at a Line X service shop here in western PA. I was completely unfamiliar with the product and did notice the smoking coming from underneath when I got home. i was wondering if i made the right choice with this undercoat! I looked it up and found this video and was so relieved when I saw this guy explaining the superiority of oil undercoating. Then I read your comment about the temporary smoking of the drips on the exhaust, and it reassured me. Thank you again for posting this, because he didn't cover it in the video.
@@emoure77 Glad to help. Also just FYI where I live it's mostly flat and I recently traveled somewhere hilly and on one of the hills the oil he sprayed either inside the frame or panels must've ran out and it got on exterior and mustve also got underneath by exhaust etc and caused a burning smell again.. At first I thought something was wrong with my truck and then I realized what it was. So just another thing to consider down the road. Also the smell has never completely gone away at least relative the NH oil that was used on my truck. It's mainly the mouse-out from the engine bay that I still smell.
@real100talk5 Wow, I've heard good things about fluid film....from my mechanic that I trust. The smell has dissipated completely from underneath my truck. I've looked underneath the truck this winter...coating is still on, but I can tell I'll want to do a little touch up this summer...Overall I'm pretty happy with it.
Up here in Central New York state, fluid film lasts 2-3 months in the winter. By spring, lanolin based products are gone. Fluid film works inside of the frame and inner body panels.
We get shitloads of salt here in western PA. I can only imagine what yinz get in upstate NY! I’ve been using Woolwax and Fluid Film, but in places like yours, I think Cosmoline (rp342 is the most popular brand) on the exposed areas would be ideal, provided the metal is dry. Fluid Film is about the best for doing inside frames, rockers, etc. It penetrates the crannies and seam welds. But if properly prepped, Cosmoline is the shizzle for the exposed under areas. Just wear a mask and a tyvek suit, or clothes you can ditch afterwards. 🤙
Years ago when I was working at a shop that's been closed for years I oiled the underside of vehicles, I used 3 quarts of 90 weight gear oil to 1 quart of 30 weight oil and did that to a customers vehicle once a year and their vehicles looked new for years until they sold them.
A common misconception is that gear oil is thicker than motor oil. Truth is - they have different rating systems. So a 90-grade gear oil is the same actual viscosity as a 30-grade motor oil. Same range of centistokes, which is what actual viscosity is measured in. As far as results - glad it worked well! I have always been a believer in oils being better than rubber coating. I also used to know a guy who made a frankenbrew of melted wax and baby oil... Yes, you read that right. In the end though - that frankenbrew worked for it's intended purpose and vehicles stayed rust-free.
Yes Dennis what you're doing is what we're replacing exactly but we're using a environmental friendly non-toxic product that is legal if we spray gear oil we would be shut down in a week.
Coat then drive down the dustiest lane or road you can find. Midi this every year and have to use very little coating after year 2. The dust hold you hot oil in place.
Went with Wool Wax much like Fluid Film but a tad thicker dirt adds to the coating and basically adds to thickness and protection, Fluid Film or Wool Wax The 2 Lanolin Based Winners
They all work very well however remember they are all consumer products anyone can buy them or Center is different because we're the only ones in the country who have commercial based products that have chemicals in them that they cannot put in consumer product and it makes a big difference
I've been using fluid film for years with touch ups in spring and fall. My only complaint about this stuff is that if you do your own repairs, mainly underneath that I get coated with that stuff everywhere I touch or accidently rub against and makes a mess. But it works. Also, I sprayed inside my rocker panels to slow down existing rust and will be replacing them next year and hope I can clean it off 100% so welds stick. Maybe I should of left the rockers alone and just let them rust until I replaced them...lol.
After reading extensively about all the options including rubber-based coating, undercoat paint, lanolin products, etc I decided to go with a cosmoline based product from CRC that was originally designed for the harsh and salty marine environment. It doesn't chip and peel like the paint or rubberized coating can and it is much more durable than the lanolin products. I used a product from CRC but there are several brands that are basically the same formula. My mechanic applied for me, he liked it so much he used it on his plow trucks...
This kind of product (or Fluid Film) seems good for seams (e.g. inside door panels, fenders) or inside box frame rails where you want it to flow, but I would use Blaster Surface Shield on exposed surfaces once it becomes more readily available.
We carry Blaster product all they do is add a solvent so it's braced thin and thickens up a little bit it lasts no longer than anything else we have sprayed it on thousands of vehicles.
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 tell that to youtuber Repair Geek who says the solvent stuff is nonsense. Of course, now he's employed by the Blaster company. He claims a bunch of this stuff is from competitors o.O
@@tychosound7020 I argued with him about using Ospho. He said it's not good. Well the Dept of the Navy uses it but I guess he'd know better than anyone. I know we all do things differently, like making love there's more than 1 way. Lmao. I told him you gotta get metal clean b4 using Ospho. No grease, oils etc or it won't work well. I've used it for 30 years on autos, dozers, semis, tractors etc. I make my own coating using 1 quart of any oil new or used, 1 quart of trans fluid new or used, 1 tube of grease, and 1 wax ring toilet gasket. Mix all in a pot and heat and stir. I use baby, mineral oil or melted Vaseline inside doors. My pap worked at Ford in Ohio. A co worker drove a post ww2 Ford sedan. He asked in late y0s how he kept it so nice with lake effe t snow and bad weather. He told him this recipe. He used it until he died. He told my dad and we use it. Works great for thrifty ppl. Less than $6 and your set. This man's doing great work. I stand behind any product with wax or mineral oil. Alot of that stuff has no real oil. Anyone who's worked on any machines knows that when you have metal caoted in oils, grease, etc it don't rust. Mix all of that stuff and make it better and it guarantees no rust. Rust is what kills any automobile. And deer. But deer damage is easy to fix. As man said you can fix a motor, trans, rear-end, hard to replace a frame, or unibody. Get a rust hole in a uni car and it's done. Thank u for all the great info.
I agree with the Blaster, I have found that Blaster is far supperior to Fluid FIlm here in Colorado, its still nice and thick and liquidous and the Fluid FIlm dries up and you also have to apply once a year for Fluid Film, only once every two years for Blaster. Btw the Blaster product has petroleum jelly in it which is basically the only difference between the two.
Got a 99 Jeep XJ in Washington, rust free, some damn how. My wife and I will be moving to the NE in a year or two, definitely looking to get some kind of undercoat done when I get there and I looked this up after a farmer commented they use their old motor oil for a coating. I might do that once I’ve tracked and fixed all the leaks in the Cherokee lol
I go to NHOU in Chichester, NH. I’m keeping a 2004 Dodge Ram on the road for now. If you get it all coated inside and out, before the winter salt, it won’t get rusty. The trade off is it is absolutely soaked with gel-like oil, but it’s clean and non toxic, much better than used motor oil everywhere.
Good stuff. I watched just for the enjoyment. I won't be a customer, only because I enjoy doing this myself on my vehicles. Good job and keep saving the vehicles. Cheers 🍻 👏
@@Marine-72 that probably works. I use fluid film just cause it's at a local auto parts store. Something like fluid film will cling to steel better than motor oil. But there are others like krown. Nhou. Wool wax which is basically what fluid film is. Some use lin seed oil.
Bought a 2011 Avalanche.had been repaint with decent finish. Frame had rust but not rot. Removed any scale and mechanically wire brushed. Painted with Por 15 resprayed area's affected by uv. All interior frame area's and door panels sprayed with fluid film and more exposed area's sprayed with blaster (supposed to be more durable than ff). Shop would have charged thousands. Hope it doesn't fail.
just watched about 2 1/2 hrs of over 40+ undercoating products with real weather snow salt road condition review from Repair Geek. Cosmoline products are great, they just require a lot of cure time if you are able to afford to have your vehicle parked for 12hrs at a time per coating. and its thin, so you need a good 2-3 layers of it. Which i am leaning towards to for Canada's harsh winters and lovely dose of salt on the roads here lol.. Nanoline products work well and are applied every year, yearly. but my question is. Yes they come wash off with high pressure wash easily, which sucks. because what if youre washing your car weekly at a wand wash? Will i be washing the product off entirely and losing my protection on it? So from all the videos ive been watching, im thinking of going for #1 doing the undercoat prep done properly, getting rid of surface rust, and washing/making sure surface is dry and clean. then apply a CRC product and then add a nanoline/cavity wax product on top of that every year before winter (if possible, or even rubberized, either or.. i just need to find out if that will work out. which ultimately should work out the best 100% undercarriage protection i think. If anyone can confirm this please share your knowledge! Repair geek just found out the best nanoline product on the market tho. PB Blaster Surface Shield
Cosmo is great on new vehicles but it will trap humidity against the rusted areas and they will continue to rust. Wire brush, Rust Reformer then cosmo (RP342) is what I did to my travel trailer. Then I found out about Surface Shield and I used that on my truck. Liquid coatings get under the rust and push out water, so it's a double whammy. It was a nicer application experience than cosmo and it's held up really well.
He used to say flu with Hillman will wax where the best product also and they also paid him now he says surface Shield because it's 10 minutes from his hometown and he got paid. He's a 23 year old kid spraying product out of a aerosol can and giving a review a month later. Well here we are non-biased and we carry it all those products they all have advantages and disadvantages but they are about the same thing however most people come here because we have commercial based product that has chemicals in it that they cannot put in a consumer product like you can buy.
We wish procs like cosmoline would work long term and they may in other parts of the country but in the Northeast they don't they peel off and crack everywhere and then turn the vehicle into a water collecting sponge
We cant find anyone in Ontario (Toronto or Surrounding) who installs Fluid Film or anything else that Lanolin based. For our Salter Trucks,, would be a great service to find. Great Job guys.
The video was for example purposes only as we stated when we actually spray we have an oil miscollection system and all employees wear for respirators and full body suits.
Get it done while vehicle is new. I use cosmoline ,no rust on my 2014 f150 steel body from Delaware.They love salt here. I also used 3m rubberised when it was new ,with no issues with it.Truck was never garaged.
So did you use a cosmoline product first, and then a rubberized undercoating on top of that layer after consmoline 2-3 layers, fully dried 12hr+ cure time each session. ? How is the rubberized undercoating looking like now?
So you use 30 different products and also use your own in-house products. But what are the top 5 when it comes to effectiveness and the longevity of the coating? Also, are dealerships restrictive in any way about these treatments on vehicles still under warranty and getting repaired at the dealership? Seems they would pitch a fit about getting slimed while doing work under the car.
When the owner who runs the show, cant't pronounce "viscosity" properly.... It's a little shady.. Lol Naw. Kidding. If I lived closer. I'd be bringing it to these guys 100%! Seems like they use great products.Owner seems super proud of his company.
We carry all those products they wash off just as fast as everything else anything that would not wash off in a year or two is kind of collect so much dust and dirt it will turn into a hard coating and destroy the vehicle that's what you're not understanding....... You do not want anything that lasts more than a couple years
Yes the products We have replaced that idea where people used to use oil and transmission fluid we could never use those we would be shut down in a couple days these new or products do the same thing however they are environmentally friendly safe and non-toxic
I use straight up cosmoline, its incredible, but it's a bit of a pain in the ass to apply right. 3 coats, at least 12hrs of cure time between coats, but once it's on, it's on and not going anywhere.
Cosmoline used to be good but they stopped making their product 30 years ago most people don't realize they lost that name and there are about 12 different companies that advertise cosmoline and they're all different in the Northeast that product just peels off it may work better in a different part of the country but it does not work very well up here at all
I took my 2022 Subaru to ziebart & they never even sprayed the hole part from tire to tire. Kinda where you set Scam. That is the one in Fort Wayne IN.
This all sounds great,but in my situation went to look at a truck today, made them put it on the lift to check it out, I can’t tell if the truck has a massive oil leak or it’s just oil based undercoating, so now I am making them remove all of it before I even consider buying the truck, I have undercoating on my truck now but it doesn’t look like a big oil slick, very nervous about buying a truck that looks awesome , runs nice, but looks like a nightmare on the underside. When it does develop an oil leak how would you even know? Not a fan of this type of undercoating.
A rust converter is the biggest scam ever at the chemical reaction that hardens loose rust a year later the whole chunk will fall off the only way to remove loose rust is to descale with a needle scaler the vehicles in this video did not need that the product is made to soak into surface rust pores instead of covering it like hard undercutting
i don't think it wouuld be a problem, since the mixture does not goes into the seals. seals work from inside to outside, not vice versa. the real danger of dust is when it enter the engine by a bad or by passing oil filter.
This sounds like a solid business owner. I'm from the south and I'm aghast at what has happened to my vehicle up here in the northeast. My man interviewer needs to invest in a 80s wig and go as lead singer of Kajagoogoo for halloween.
I feel the boxed frames are a bad idea. Salty slush and water gets in and just sits in there, rotting from the inside out. C-channel frames get more air and water exposure to rinse and dry. I realize the soap at car washes get somewhat diluted but, they are also corrosive chemicals. Ive hauled it in semis and we have to have corrosive placards on the truck when hauling it.
I was at a big junkyard in Mn a few days ago. Ford with C frame none frame broken even they are till 2002. After that O frames and from 5 trucks 3 have broken frames.
fluid film or any other lanolin based coating where you want it to creep like inside rocker panels pretty much anywhere where there is a rubber plug with a service whole. Cosmoline pretty much everywhere else This is because it fully dry's unlike lanolin and will stay on better and longer while still pulling the moisture out of the applied area instead of sealing it in like a rubberized coating I use RP-342. But that's just the information I have personally found. The youtuber repair geek has a whole channel dedicated to different car undercoating's its pretty good.
Repair gets paid by companies to make those video's. The real grease based cosmoline stopped making that product 20 years ago. The new stuff dries over and is horrible.
Unfortunately at least in the Northeast anything that drives will eventually crack and peel by the chemicals put on the road and then you just turn the vehicle into a sponge and there's no way to correct it
If it stays semi wet won't dirt, sand, and other road grim stick to it? I will be using my new Tacoma on the beach occasionally will sand stick to this product? That would not be good I would think. Will undercarriage spray cleaning diminish the coating over time? How long does this coating last. When does it need to be refreshed and how often to maintain it top performance?
In the case of driving on a beach you're better off using a product like krown and getting it done two or three times a year that way you can still wash off the sand
How does a 'waxy' product like the military grade Cosmoline RP-342 hold up in the Midwest? Awesome Vid and great info, keep it up. I may have to make the 3.5 hr drive from Ohio for a quality job!
Rp-342 holds up better than anything I've ever used. Started using it in 2014 on a RAM 2500. It was daily use,year round in Southern WI and Northern IL. Frame and components looked great when I sold it this summer. Product was still where it was applied. I'd recommend a lighter flowing product in the frame and at the pinch welds at the box arches and areas you can't directly spray with RP. It does not flow much. I'll add I only treated the main areas once. Rear axle and a few low hanging spots could have used another coat. But I only did one to begin with. Took 6 cans to coat the whole underside of the 2500 long bed. Just got a 2003 Land Cruiser from central California and treated that before it ever sees winter. 4 cans, and one can of a lighter product inside the frame and other tubes/bumbers.
Cosmoline holds up great for me here in Michigan even the front of my control arms which take the most beating are still fully covered- it doesn't wash off period.
Cosmo is great if the factory undercoat is intact. If it's worn away or there's rust it can trap water (even the water in humidity) and rusting can continue. I wire brushed, used rust reformer then RP342 on my travel trailer's frame. It still beads water. I used surface shield by Blaster on my truck. The application seemed easier, maybe just because of how the nozzle is designed. Liquid coatings will seep through rust and push out water, seems like a win-win Repair Geek has hours of video detailing his testing. Worth checking him out
Good question it only can carry a light amount of dust and dirt and it actually adds as an aggregate so it keeps the coating more firm most of anything that's heavy will wash off by driving in rain or snow
im having trouble with a heavy top and bottom and no real fan on my hook wand and just a steady stream with my 517 nozzle. what size nozzle are you running?
Where is the location of the facility? We are in NYC. Trying to decide if it wroth traveling to this location of finding a shop in our area that is a attentive to the treatment of the undercarriage.
I'm using Corrosion Free. My question is how fast will it wash off going through delta sonic car wash 2 times a week during winter? Will it last all winter or be washed off
Undercarriage washes almost all them use recycled water why would you want to wash the underneath of your car when you have an oil-based product on it that repels water it's a complete waste of time and counterproductive furthermore if you have a vehicle with rust you're just soaking water into it which makes the rust accelerate times 10
@@starcrownmoulding7456 Canadian Tire doesn't have experienced personnel for this product go to your local specialist that do this professionally meaning rust proof specialist!!!
Yes there's a lot of areas you do not want to spray underneath it would take years of experience to explain all that but there are certain areas that cannot be sprayed
Anyone can go buy fluid film woolwax or NH oil they are all consumer products they work pretty well what we specifically use as a consumer product that has chemicals in it that cannot be given to the General Public and we do not sell it
Powerwashing under a vehicle? Worst thing you can ever do. Soaking water into rust makes it 10x better. Long term comparable to parking on grass. Ever leave a tool outside overnight? Rusty in morning. Undercarriage washes are worst thing you can do.
@@Niko_410 its give and take. When you wash a undercarriage of a rusty vehicles, your just soaking water into that rust and pushing allot of that road debris inside areas it will never come out of. Occasionally is fine. The guys that do it often though are the 1st ones to rust out.
Sure the lanolin products are very effective, but really only last one season... I guess it's good for business. There are NO long term products that work ?
Call around to traditional undercoating they're going to tell you to do a yearly touch up anywhere you call because it cracks and peels so in the case at the maintenance is usually then doing oil-based is clearly the answer if you understand what I'm saying.... Basically if the maintenance is really no matter what you do then why would you want to do something that cracks and peels or you can do an oil-based and get a refresher coat and a fraction of the price once a year
Like ANY undercoating even hard coatings, ALL undercoating should be touched up every couple years. There is nothing that will last forever. Just like you change your oil, its regular maintenance. A blown engine is replaceable. A rusted through frame, good luck.
If you watch the video we said this was for video purposes only when they actually spray they were full respirators because the product does not harm skin they are not required towear a full body suit however we have them available and allot of the techs do wear them
I’m sorry dude, but the way you’re just staring at the camera while he was explaining the undercoating was the most awkward thing I’ve ever watch. Good thought on the video, had to let you know
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 yes I get that, it's just funny and he could be looking at the person he's talking too. Besides any comments help the video so it was just a joke
The rain does not make it drip sometimes you get dripping when it's first done or in the summer due to heat because the product is migrating which is a good thing we always recommend clear product due to that but it will wash off concrete be rarely get complaints on dripping the shops that get complaints on dripping don't know what they're doing and spray on way too much
![Gucci Mane & Sexyy Red - You Don't Love Me [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/j7IBqyFKT4c/mqdefault.jpg)
Shops like this one, that commit themselves to the best interest of their customers, are the real MVPs
a tip: watch series on kaldroStream. I've been using it for watching lots of of movies these days.
@Gannon Malakai Definitely, I have been watching on kaldroStream for since december myself :D
Thank you
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 what’s the best undercoating now in black ? I wish I lived closer I’d just have you do it . But I believe here in Tennessee no one around so it’s up to me .
@@weirdowolfstudio5409 what year and model vehicle?
My Dad used to change his own oil and saved the old oil and spray all the old oil into the fender wells and doors...anywhere he could get the oil can with a pumper on it. His cars never rusted! This was in Northern VT.
don't the oil eat rubber bushings?
I still do it every fall and no it don't eat no rubber bushings like all the wet wipes says it does!!
My friend mixes old oil and diesel. It works really well.
@airbornepotato he'll no ,does it eat the rubber gasket on your oil filter,whoever says this don't know wt the he'll their talking about lol
I called a few places in my area to get my brand new 22 Durango undercoated and got quoted 3-4k from various places. I said F that and went to harbor freight and got 50 bucks of lanolin based blaster surface shield 5 cans and did it myself. I have no problem supporting local business but common let's get realistic it's not rocket science a monkey can spray the bottom of a vehicle.
Surface Shield is the best product to use too! I doubt the quality of these companies that do it for you. Especially any of that rubberized junk.
@@juliedumont3685what the name of the shop
😮 3-4 Grand???? Wtf? It's under $200 here in Ontario!
@@Mountain-Man-3000 Here's how it works. They ask the year make and model of your vehicle then after calculating what your vehicle might be worth they estimate how much they can screw you for. Basically this guy has money so Jack the price up.
I had an 88 S10 Blazer "undercoated" at a state prison autobody hobby shop in 1993, 55 miles from the shop shown in this video and the Blazer HAS NEVER RUSTED ANYWHERE to this day, I still own it! The miracle product, 50-50 mix ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) and 80-90 gear oil. The Shop instructor did my vehicle for 43.00 dollars all in.
I have used this mix since then and have experienced OUTSTANDING years long protection in the northern snow and salt.
TRY IT YOURSELF! A pressure pot such as the one you would use to spray your garden for bugs it what the shop instructor used and I now use myself.
Atf makes it worse
@@kenj.8897 ATF has rust inhibiting properties.
Yes you can use the atf from your annually transmission pump out and som chain bar oil or differential fluid and a little kerosene but wear an oil approved respirator and goggles
Dude thank you🙏🏽
What state are you in?
Lanolin is the best option and those guys know it ! Respect :)
This has been done for years in Iceland and works wonders
He kept forgetting to mention the most detrimental aspect of rubberized coatings, which is the fact that they seal in the moisture which actually accelerates everything rusting underneath the coating. It's like having an infected wound on your body and just covering it up with makeup letting it fester underneath instead of treating it with an anti-bacterial ointment. The oil products like they use are absolutely superior and truly stop the rust process. The only downside are they can drip a little, are a bit messy and don't look quite as good, but all minor things. The real issue is stopping the corrosion and saving your vehicle from an early grave, which all the oil based products like Fluid Film, NH Oil, etc do marvelously. I recently had my F150 undercoating with Back-n-Black NH Oil and it came out great. There's some odor and some smoking where it gets on the exhaust, at first, but that goes away. Looks so much better underneath, not seeing all that surface rust anymore, and I feel so much better knowing I've stopped the corrosion and saved my truck.
I've worked on autos that looked great with rubber undercoating. Until u push on it and it's held in all the water and salt and no metal is left. Oil, trans fluid, grease and wax ring gasket. 1 time a year.
Thank you for this reply! I just had my 2012 Toyota Tundra undercoated with Berkebile oil undercoat at a Line X service shop here in western PA. I was completely unfamiliar with the product and did notice the smoking coming from underneath when I got home. i was wondering if i made the right choice with this undercoat! I looked it up and found this video and was so relieved when I saw this guy explaining the superiority of oil undercoating. Then I read your comment about the temporary smoking of the drips on the exhaust, and it reassured me. Thank you again for posting this, because he didn't cover it in the video.
@@emoure77 Glad to help. Also just FYI where I live it's mostly flat and I recently traveled somewhere hilly and on one of the hills the oil he sprayed either inside the frame or panels must've ran out and it got on exterior and mustve also got underneath by exhaust etc and caused a burning smell again.. At first I thought something was wrong with my truck and then I realized what it was. So just another thing to consider down the road. Also the smell has never completely gone away at least relative the NH oil that was used on my truck. It's mainly the mouse-out from the engine bay that I still smell.
@@kevinbreese5739 Thanks for the heads up. Definitely hilly here, I live in the mountains...
@real100talk5 Wow, I've heard good things about fluid film....from my mechanic that I trust. The smell has dissipated completely from underneath my truck. I've looked underneath the truck this winter...coating is still on, but I can tell I'll want to do a little touch up this summer...Overall I'm pretty happy with it.
Up here in Central New York state, fluid film lasts 2-3 months in the winter. By spring, lanolin based products are gone. Fluid film works inside of the frame and inner body panels.
We get shitloads of salt here in western PA. I can only imagine what yinz get in upstate NY!
I’ve been using Woolwax and Fluid Film, but in places like yours, I think Cosmoline (rp342 is the most popular brand) on the exposed areas would be ideal, provided the metal is dry. Fluid Film is about the best for doing inside frames, rockers, etc. It penetrates the crannies and seam welds.
But if properly prepped, Cosmoline is the shizzle for the exposed under areas.
Just wear a mask and a tyvek suit, or clothes you can ditch afterwards. 🤙
Hi, do you know some places in CT who can prep rusted frame and paint it?
Years ago when I was working at a shop that's been closed for years I oiled the underside of vehicles, I used 3 quarts of 90 weight gear oil to 1 quart of 30 weight oil and did that to a customers vehicle once a year and their vehicles looked new for years until they sold them.
U should give fluid film a try.
A common misconception is that gear oil is thicker than motor oil. Truth is - they have different rating systems. So a 90-grade gear oil is the same actual viscosity as a 30-grade motor oil. Same range of centistokes, which is what actual viscosity is measured in.
As far as results - glad it worked well! I have always been a believer in oils being better than rubber coating.
I also used to know a guy who made a frankenbrew of melted wax and baby oil... Yes, you read that right. In the end though - that frankenbrew worked for it's intended purpose and vehicles stayed rust-free.
I have heard of cars and trucks using this method with good results.
Yes Dennis what you're doing is what we're replacing exactly but we're using a environmental friendly non-toxic product that is legal if we spray gear oil we would be shut down in a week.
@@ICU2002u heard don't count
I like that idea of spraying inside all the frames
Very solid way of preventing rust....
I had my 4RUNNER and Tundra done at that shop👍🏻
What about state inspection? I had it done too,but went to several places in PA for state inspection, they said it’s a fire hazard.
Coat then drive down the dustiest lane or road you can find. Midi this every year and have to use very little coating after year 2. The dust hold you hot oil in place.
Sure does,that's wt I do right after I spray on good dry day every October
I do this involuntarily ... but now it makes me re-think fixing that oil leak 🤔
I had a Trans Am that I bought and it had an engine oil leak that got on the floor boards. Needless to say it had no rust underneath.
😂😂 that literally made me laugh out loud
Went with Wool Wax much like Fluid Film but a tad thicker dirt adds to the coating and basically adds to thickness and protection, Fluid Film or Wool Wax The 2 Lanolin Based Winners
They all work very well however remember they are all consumer products anyone can buy them or Center is different because we're the only ones in the country who have commercial based products that have chemicals in them that they cannot put in consumer product and it makes a big difference
I have a 2015 ram 2500 in the northeast. I have been using fluid film since new. And no rust. Spray the underside 2x a year.
Only reason my jeep isn’t covered in rust; it’s covered in oil due to leaks. I imagine this way is a tad more professional
8+ months of snow here... Count your blessings lol definitely giving my truck the full treatment when it finally gets built
The Maverick?
I've been using fluid film for years with touch ups in spring and fall. My only complaint about this stuff is that if you do your own repairs, mainly underneath that I get coated with that stuff everywhere I touch or accidently rub against and makes a mess. But it works.
Also, I sprayed inside my rocker panels to slow down existing rust and will be replacing them next year and hope I can clean it off 100% so welds stick. Maybe I should of left the rockers alone and just let them rust until I replaced them...lol.
but does it really work :)
After reading extensively about all the options including rubber-based coating, undercoat paint, lanolin products, etc I decided to go with a cosmoline based product from CRC that was originally designed for the harsh and salty marine environment. It doesn't chip and peel like the paint or rubberized coating can and it is much more durable than the lanolin products. I used a product from CRC but there are several brands that are basically the same formula. My mechanic applied for me, he liked it so much he used it on his plow trucks...
Nah. If is paint there and Cosmoline over Cosmo chip as paint chip.
@@zell863Not language first English. No sense make.
@@inquisitor4635 Cosmoline is useless over paint. If paint crack Cosmoline can not move lie ff and will do nothing there.
@@zell863 cosmoline works great.
@@inquisitor4635 cosmoline works great.
This kind of product (or Fluid Film) seems good for seams (e.g. inside door panels, fenders) or inside box frame rails
where you want it to flow, but I would use Blaster Surface Shield on exposed surfaces once it becomes more readily available.
Blaster surface Shield is absolutely no better they just add a solvent it actually is thinner in the long run once the solvent flashes off
We carry Blaster product all they do is add a solvent so it's braced thin and thickens up a little bit it lasts no longer than anything else we have sprayed it on thousands of vehicles.
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 tell that to youtuber Repair Geek who says the solvent stuff is nonsense. Of course, now he's employed by the Blaster company. He claims a bunch of this stuff is from competitors o.O
@@tychosound7020 I argued with him about using Ospho. He said it's not good. Well the Dept of the Navy uses it but I guess he'd know better than anyone. I know we all do things differently, like making love there's more than 1 way. Lmao. I told him you gotta get metal clean b4 using Ospho. No grease, oils etc or it won't work well. I've used it for 30 years on autos, dozers, semis, tractors etc. I make my own coating using 1 quart of any oil new or used, 1 quart of trans fluid new or used, 1 tube of grease, and 1 wax ring toilet gasket. Mix all in a pot and heat and stir. I use baby, mineral oil or melted Vaseline inside doors. My pap worked at Ford in Ohio. A co worker drove a post ww2 Ford sedan. He asked in late y0s how he kept it so nice with lake effe t snow and bad weather. He told him this recipe. He used it until he died. He told my dad and we use it. Works great for thrifty ppl. Less than $6 and your set. This man's doing great work. I stand behind any product with wax or mineral oil. Alot of that stuff has no real oil. Anyone who's worked on any machines knows that when you have metal caoted in oils, grease, etc it don't rust. Mix all of that stuff and make it better and it guarantees no rust. Rust is what kills any automobile. And deer. But deer damage is easy to fix. As man said you can fix a motor, trans, rear-end, hard to replace a frame, or unibody. Get a rust hole in a uni car and it's done. Thank u for all the great info.
I agree with the Blaster, I have found that Blaster is far supperior to Fluid FIlm here in Colorado, its still nice and thick and liquidous and the Fluid FIlm dries up and you also have to apply once a year for Fluid Film, only once every two years for Blaster. Btw the Blaster product has petroleum jelly in it which is basically the only difference between the two.
Got a 99 Jeep XJ in Washington, rust free, some damn how. My wife and I will be moving to the NE in a year or two, definitely looking to get some kind of undercoat done when I get there and I looked this up after a farmer commented they use their old motor oil for a coating. I might do that once I’ve tracked and fixed all the leaks in the Cherokee lol
I go to NHOU in Chichester, NH. I’m keeping a 2004 Dodge Ram on the road for now. If you get it all coated inside and out, before the winter salt, it won’t get rusty. The trade off is it is absolutely soaked with gel-like oil, but it’s clean and non toxic, much better than used motor oil everywhere.
Use crc rust inhibitor. Project farm did a good video on it. Enjoy your XJ! I had 2 and loved them
Good stuff. I watched just for the enjoyment. I won't be a customer, only because I enjoy doing this myself on my vehicles. Good job and keep saving the vehicles. Cheers 🍻 👏
What do you use on your undercarriage? for the last couple of years I sprayed used motor oil
@@Marine-72 that probably works. I use fluid film just cause it's at a local auto parts store. Something like fluid film will cling to steel better than motor oil. But there are others like krown. Nhou. Wool wax which is basically what fluid film is. Some use lin seed oil.
Bought a 2011 Avalanche.had been repaint with decent finish.
Frame had rust but not rot. Removed any scale and mechanically wire brushed. Painted with Por 15 resprayed area's affected by uv.
All interior frame area's and door panels sprayed with fluid film and more exposed area's sprayed with blaster (supposed to be more durable than ff). Shop would have charged thousands. Hope it doesn't fail.
Dang I wish my city had a place as great as this. Low prices too!! I’ll just keep doing it myself in my driveway I guess haha
just watched about 2 1/2 hrs of over 40+ undercoating products with real weather snow salt road condition review from Repair Geek.
Cosmoline products are great, they just require a lot of cure time if you are able to afford to have your vehicle parked for 12hrs at a time per coating. and its thin, so you need a good 2-3 layers of it. Which i am leaning towards to for Canada's harsh winters and lovely dose of salt on the roads here lol..
Nanoline products work well and are applied every year, yearly. but my question is. Yes they come wash off with high pressure wash easily, which sucks. because what if youre washing your car weekly at a wand wash? Will i be washing the product off entirely and losing my protection on it?
So from all the videos ive been watching, im thinking of going for #1 doing the undercoat prep done properly, getting rid of surface rust, and washing/making sure surface is dry and clean. then apply a CRC product and then add a nanoline/cavity wax product on top of that every year before winter (if possible, or even rubberized, either or.. i just need to find out if that will work out. which ultimately should work out the best 100% undercarriage protection i think. If anyone can confirm this please share your knowledge!
Repair geek just found out the best nanoline product on the market tho. PB Blaster Surface Shield
Never use rubberized products they will accelerate the rust.
Cosmo is great on new vehicles but it will trap humidity against the rusted areas and they will continue to rust. Wire brush, Rust Reformer then cosmo (RP342) is what I did to my travel trailer.
Then I found out about Surface Shield and I used that on my truck. Liquid coatings get under the rust and push out water, so it's a double whammy. It was a nicer application experience than cosmo and it's held up really well.
He used to say flu with Hillman will wax where the best product also and they also paid him now he says surface Shield because it's 10 minutes from his hometown and he got paid.
He's a 23 year old kid spraying product out of a aerosol can and giving a review a month later.
Well here we are non-biased and we carry it all those products they all have advantages and disadvantages but they are about the same thing however most people come here because we have commercial based product that has chemicals in it that they cannot put in a consumer product like you can buy.
We wish procs like cosmoline would work long term and they may in other parts of the country but in the Northeast they don't they peel off and crack everywhere and then turn the vehicle into a water collecting sponge
You had me at FluidFilm 😘👌
Thanks guys !
Brilliant video thank you ❤️👀👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hello great video thank you I’m wondering why the tires aren’t taken off to get those places too
We cant find anyone in Ontario (Toronto or Surrounding) who installs Fluid Film or anything else that Lanolin based. For our Salter Trucks,, would be a great service to find. Great Job guys.
Look for krown undercoating
Use respirators while Misting/spraying any oil.
The video was for example purposes only as we stated when we actually spray we have an oil miscollection system and all employees wear for respirators and full body suits.
Lol looks like that oil has some affects on him lol. Be good to see some safety glasses on the boys
Respirator would be good too
Get it done while vehicle is new. I use cosmoline ,no rust on my 2014 f150 steel body from Delaware.They love salt here. I also used 3m rubberised when it was new ,with no issues with it.Truck was never garaged.
@john Trincia ... did you rubberized at the moment you bought truck new?
So did you use a cosmoline product first, and then a rubberized undercoating on top of that layer after consmoline 2-3 layers, fully dried 12hr+ cure time each session. ? How is the rubberized undercoating looking like now?
So you use 30 different products and also use your own in-house products.
But what are the top 5 when it comes to effectiveness and the longevity of the coating?
Also, are dealerships restrictive in any way about these treatments on vehicles still under warranty and getting repaired at the dealership? Seems they would pitch a fit about getting slimed while doing work under the car.
When the owner who runs the show, cant't pronounce "viscosity" properly.... It's a little shady.. Lol Naw. Kidding. If I lived closer. I'd be bringing it to these guys 100%! Seems like they use great products.Owner seems super proud of his company.
This is temporary. Use PB BLASTER Surface shield or Wool wax and CR Marine instead.
I honestly think this guy and procedure us MUCH better. I will NEVER get inside frame rails and all the covers like them
We carry all those products they wash off just as fast as everything else anything that would not wash off in a year or two is kind of collect so much dust and dirt it will turn into a hard coating and destroy the vehicle that's what you're not understanding.......
You do not want anything that lasts more than a couple years
So what happens when you wash the underside of the vehicle?
Used transmission fluid is great
Yes the products We have replaced that idea where people used to use oil and transmission fluid we could never use those we would be shut down in a couple days these new or products do the same thing however they are environmentally friendly safe and non-toxic
I use straight up cosmoline, its incredible, but it's a bit of a pain in the ass to apply right.
3 coats, at least 12hrs of cure time between coats, but once it's on, it's on and not going anywhere.
Cosmoline used to be good but they stopped making their product 30 years ago most people don't realize they lost that name and there are about 12 different companies that advertise cosmoline and they're all different in the Northeast that product just peels off it may work better in a different part of the country but it does not work very well up here at all
The original cosmoline that worked well was a grease product and never dried it stayed tacky throughout its entire lifespan
I took my 2022 Subaru to ziebart & they never even sprayed the hole part from tire to tire. Kinda where you set Scam. That is the one in Fort Wayne IN.
Ziebart causes corrosion , better off with nothing
Hit it up with surface shield.. yearly. Or 2.. last forever.
Im confused about something-is a mineral oil undercoat lanolin based or petroleum based?
Would this benefit a new truck off the lot ?
What product is it ? Does it become dry to touch ?
Krown is cheaper and my vote for the win.
Is your coating successful on a truck that has had the hard coat and touch up sprayed for the past 4 years
This all sounds great,but in my situation went to look at a truck today, made them put it on the lift to check it out, I can’t tell if the truck has a massive oil leak or it’s just oil based undercoating, so now I am making them remove all of it before I even consider buying the truck, I have undercoating on my truck now but it doesn’t look like a big oil slick, very nervous about buying a truck that looks awesome , runs nice, but looks like a nightmare on the underside. When it does develop an oil leak how would you even know? Not a fan of this type of undercoating.
Read all the other comments here. It makes sense. Just had mine done by Line X company. This is what they did.
Use the clear and don't use the black
Ever hear if valugard vg101 cavity wax? If so is it any good?
Why not first apply a rust converter first? Then apply a sealant.
I did that, but I think I may regret it... most of the youtube reviews on rust converters are not very positive at all.
A rust converter is the biggest scam ever at the chemical reaction that hardens loose rust a year later the whole chunk will fall off the only way to remove loose rust is to descale with a needle scaler the vehicles in this video did not need that the product is made to soak into surface rust pores instead of covering it like hard undercutting
If you drive it in salt
You need fluid film
👍👍That’s good stuff man
How does it hold up in dusty area's won't it make a grinding paste on moving parts?
i don't think it wouuld be a problem, since the mixture does not goes into the seals. seals work from inside to outside, not vice versa. the real danger of dust is when it enter the engine by a bad or by passing oil filter.
This sounds like a solid business owner. I'm from the south and I'm aghast at what has happened to my vehicle up here in the northeast. My man interviewer needs to invest in a 80s wig and go as lead singer of Kajagoogoo for halloween.
Business owner seems great. Guy on the left with the stare into the camera saying not much kind of creeps me out.
@@waynebinkylol, he's the Kajagoogoo guy🤭
I feel the boxed frames are a bad idea. Salty slush and water gets in and just sits in there, rotting from the inside out. C-channel frames get more air and water exposure to rinse and dry. I realize the soap at car washes get somewhat diluted but, they are also corrosive chemicals. Ive hauled it in semis and we have to have corrosive placards on the truck when hauling it.
I was at a big junkyard in Mn a few days ago. Ford with C frame none frame broken even they are till 2002. After that O frames and from 5 trucks 3 have broken frames.
For a brand new toyota rav 4 what would you guys recommend?
Toyota has its own set of products. Toyota CRC coating.
fluid film or any other lanolin based coating where you want it to creep like inside rocker panels pretty much anywhere where there is a rubber plug with a service whole. Cosmoline pretty much everywhere else This is because it fully dry's unlike lanolin and will stay on better and longer while still pulling the moisture out of the applied area instead of sealing it in like a rubberized coating I use RP-342. But that's just the information I have personally found. The youtuber repair geek has a whole channel dedicated to different car undercoating's its pretty good.
Repair gets paid by companies to make those video's. The real grease based cosmoline stopped making that product 20 years ago. The new stuff dries over and is horrible.
Unfortunately at least in the Northeast anything that drives will eventually crack and peel by the chemicals put on the road and then you just turn the vehicle into a sponge and there's no way to correct it
rp-342 is great. @@judge9215
How do they prep before coating?
I think you just hit really rusty spots with a wire brush until you get all the flakey rust off then you can apply the product.
If the vehicles more than a few years old and has scale rust we descale all the areas before applying
Did you powerwash before put your fluid?
If it stays semi wet won't dirt, sand, and other road grim stick to it? I will be using my new Tacoma on the beach occasionally will sand stick to this product? That would not be good I would think.
Will undercarriage spray cleaning diminish the coating over time? How long does this coating last. When does it need to be refreshed and how often to maintain it top performance?
In the case of driving on a beach you're better off using a product like krown and getting it done two or three times a year that way you can still wash off the sand
Any place here in Chicago that can do this?
How does a 'waxy' product like the military grade Cosmoline RP-342 hold up in the Midwest? Awesome Vid and great info, keep it up. I may have to make the 3.5 hr drive from Ohio for a quality job!
Rp-342 holds up better than anything I've ever used. Started using it in 2014 on a RAM 2500. It was daily use,year round in Southern WI and Northern IL. Frame and components looked great when I sold it this summer. Product was still where it was applied. I'd recommend a lighter flowing product in the frame and at the pinch welds at the box arches and areas you can't directly spray with RP. It does not flow much. I'll add I only treated the main areas once. Rear axle and a few low hanging spots could have used another coat. But I only did one to begin with. Took 6 cans to coat the whole underside of the 2500 long bed. Just got a 2003 Land Cruiser from central California and treated that before it ever sees winter. 4 cans, and one can of a lighter product inside the frame and other tubes/bumbers.
Cosmoline holds up great for me here in Michigan even the front of my control arms which take the most beating are still fully covered- it doesn't wash off period.
Cosmo is great if the factory undercoat is intact. If it's worn away or there's rust it can trap water (even the water in humidity) and rusting can continue. I wire brushed, used rust reformer then RP342 on my travel trailer's frame. It still beads water.
I used surface shield by Blaster on my truck. The application seemed easier, maybe just because of how the nozzle is designed. Liquid coatings will seep through rust and push out water, seems like a win-win
Repair Geek has hours of video detailing his testing. Worth checking him out
More a question than a comment. Beening it stays semi wet, how bad does dirt and dust stick to it?
Good question it only can carry a light amount of dust and dirt and it actually adds as an aggregate so it keeps the coating more firm most of anything that's heavy will wash off by driving in rain or snow
Live in Marion Iowa so would be looking for someone in my area. Who is the manufacturer so maybe I can find a dealer.
So automatic carwashes are a no go correct?
TRUE, U can do just before appt for touch up. But automatics are brutal on paint.. Brushless? Chemicals? Still abrasive. Just saying.
Are you guys using Fluid Film?
IDK...weird they didnt say
what is the product that is sprayed?
Great - you can also stop and contain rust in a more complex way. But not at this price
"Me not need no respirator "
I'm sold at 7:50 into to the video. How much for a 1999 Tahoe?
Where is there a good place like this in Long Island ny?
How much do they charge
Does anyone know if there is a comparable soft seal product to purchase in the UK?
That’s a great price
I wish you were in my area I would call you first thing in the morning
im having trouble with a heavy top and bottom and no real fan on my hook wand and just a steady stream with my 517 nozzle. what size nozzle are you running?
We had some modify all of our equipment to get it to spray right unfortunately
Do you know any place like yours in southern New Hampshire
Where is the location of the facility? We are in NYC. Trying to decide if it wroth traveling to this location of finding a shop in our area that is a attentive to the treatment of the undercarriage.
Pittsburgh PA. Call and ask fro Greg and say Jack Sent you from RUclips
Where are you located?
Where newyork?
I'm using Corrosion Free. My question is how fast will it wash off going through delta sonic car wash 2 times a week during winter? Will it last all winter or be washed off
In Canadian Tire, i believe they said 18 month
I never do underbody wash after rust check till summer. Truck is on 8th application, zero rust and im in the rust belt
Undercarriage washes almost all them use recycled water why would you want to wash the underneath of your car when you have an oil-based product on it that repels water it's a complete waste of time and counterproductive furthermore if you have a vehicle with rust you're just soaking water into it which makes the rust accelerate times 10
@@starcrownmoulding7456 Canadian Tire doesn't have experienced personnel for this product go to your local specialist that do this professionally meaning rust proof specialist!!!
@@lou6749 mississauga location use corrosion free
I like boiled linseed oil
Is there any part of the under body your not supposed to spray? TY I subscribed
It's oil based so no you don't want to do your breaks.
Yes there's a lot of areas you do not want to spray underneath it would take years of experience to explain all that but there are certain areas that cannot be sprayed
So how does one actually purchase your products?
Anyone can go buy fluid film woolwax or NH oil they are all consumer products they work pretty well what we specifically use as a consumer product that has chemicals in it that cannot be given to the General Public and we do not sell it
Great video and great explanations!
doesn't the oil just wash off? i powerwash underneath really well, won't that wash it off?
I'll let Greg know he has a question here.
Powerwashing under a vehicle? Worst thing you can ever do. Soaking water into rust makes it 10x better. Long term comparable to parking on grass. Ever leave a tool outside overnight? Rusty in morning. Undercarriage washes are worst thing you can do.
Also no it does not wash off nor drip.
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 how is washing dirt, mud, oil, road salt, etc off the undercarriage of your truck a bad thing?
@@Niko_410 its give and take. When you wash a undercarriage of a rusty vehicles, your just soaking water into that rust and pushing allot of that road debris inside areas it will never come out of. Occasionally is fine. The guys that do it often though are the 1st ones to rust out.
Crew cuts should be mandatory
Sure the lanolin products are very effective, but really only last one season... I guess it's good for business. There are NO long term products that work ?
Call around to traditional undercoating they're going to tell you to do a yearly touch up anywhere you call because it cracks and peels so in the case at the maintenance is usually then doing oil-based is clearly the answer if you understand what I'm saying....
Basically if the maintenance is really no matter what you do then why would you want to do something that cracks and peels or you can do an oil-based and get a refresher coat and a fraction of the price once a year
how long does it last? how often do you need to reapply?
I'll get Greg in here
Like ANY undercoating even hard coatings, ALL undercoating should be touched up every couple years. There is nothing that will last forever.
Just like you change your oil, its regular maintenance.
A blown engine is replaceable. A rusted through frame, good luck.
Is the junkyard Ohio?
So what's recommended woolwax or fluid film
I just bought a can of fluid film this morning and its written woolwax on it 🤔
You look like the cop from Terminator 2 Judgment Day....
you saw that oil worked great so you started to look for othe products ya intelligent
Does dirt and sand stick to it?
Yes
Dude get your employee some protection, full body disposable vest are like 5 dollars a good respirator mask is $50,
If you watch the video we said this was for video purposes only when they actually spray they were full respirators because the product does not harm skin they are not required towear a full body suit however we have them available and allot of the techs do wear them
Where are you guys located?
Pittsburgh pa
I think the guy on the right has undercoating in his eyes!
I’m sorry dude, but the way you’re just staring at the camera while he was explaining the undercoating was the most awkward thing I’ve ever watch. Good thought on the video, had to let you know
Baseball Announcer style! Pre game baby
Hes holding a camera stick its not someone else taping, so you have to look at the camera most of the time...... come on !
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 yes I get that, it's just funny and he could be looking at the person he's talking too. Besides any comments help the video so it was just a joke
If it gets wet from a rain since it stays wet, is it going to drop a oily black substance all over your clean white cement driveway?
The rain does not make it drip sometimes you get dripping when it's first done or in the summer due to heat because the product is migrating which is a good thing we always recommend clear product due to that but it will wash off concrete be rarely get complaints on dripping the shops that get complaints on dripping don't know what they're doing and spray on way too much
Price
Jack... stop looking at the camera when your guest is talking.... its creepy as shit