Back when there was no RUclips people had to have a mentor like you to get all this good knowledge. I'm living in good times. I can DIY because of pros like you. Thank you.
YESSS!!! Finally someone renovating a 1950s bathroom. I'm just about to tackle a room built the exact same way, I've been watching all these tutorials on more modern houses and ive been worried that I'm going to miss something important that's not required in your typical wood and plaster house. Thank you so much for sharing your methods and tricks of the trade, your a legend🙏
Very useful video for bathrooms built in 70's & early 80's. My bathroom was built in 78 and it was same exact same as this one. Same tile, tub, studs against exterior centerblock, metal mesh, and thick cement.
Always very helpful. Thank you so much for your hard work. You have helped this new homeowner get over the hump and DIY with a newfound level of comfort..
My shower was built with drywall, then mesh, then concrete. I was able to easily get the tile off then the mesh and concrete, until i got to the bottom tiles, on the walls. The issue was when they put the pan liner in, they put it over the drywall, without putting any backing between the studs. I also had to cut out a full concrete curb. I used a 4.5 inch circular saw with a dimond blade and once I figured out exactly how the curb was made, i was able to remove it pretty quickly. Great videos.
I enjoyed this video. Just something I could watch form start to finish and take in the overall process. I can now look at some other DIY videos for any specific jobs I want to learn more about and compare how different tradesman go about it Well done and thank you
It is a compliment to you that others want to see you show more of the process. They like the end result of your work, and want to see how you are actually getting from point A to point B. But, you are the camera man and bathroom remodeler, so I fully understand. What I've done is watch videos where you did show detail. We work with what we have. Shannon at House Improvements has a separate person for a camera person, because he has that costly setup available to him. What I like about you is that you teach us how to do these jobs, despite having to film and work at the same time. And, I have learned a great deal. I would rather you continue to make these videos, than stop because you do not have an individual camera person. Shannon does things his way; and you do things your way. So I made my first video on tile install in the bathroom because of you. I didn't have another person, but I made the video anyway. I'll put it together soon for RUclips.
StarrTile can you tell me the steps for the shower floor.. do you put the plywood down and then durock then the mud? Lil confused also what goes directly on top off the mud
If you have a plywood floor already, just put liner down & pour pan. Concrete floor just needs a liner, then pour pan. There is no need for Durock before pan liner...I mean you COULD put it down but serves no purpose.
The camera did not record the first half of the job, e.g. demolition and floor damage. This was my first shot at a video. I was disappointed. I'll try again on another job.
That's the old school proper way to do things. All corners get what we old timer call hospital folds...still doing it that exact way to this day! Vanatti construction Michigan
I really appreciate the fact that the guy took over 30 minutes to explain this and show you some of the things that he was doing but he took way too long and jump from the floor to the baseboard to the wall to the shower head he went back and forth a few times I wish you would have just done it step-by-step and made it simple it's a little complicated didn't show enough of the work that was actually been done moving the drain over to the center you know you got to get under there and run those pipes over there's just a whole lot that he left out that you know doesn't explain exactly how to fix this
I've had a lot of experience with those kind of bathrooms and to me they are the worst thing ever to have to tear out and after a few of them of just beating everything out of it I had to think that there has to be an easier way and so for the cast-iron tubs the only way was to beat it out. I usually throw a drop cloth or some kind of tarp over the tub and beat it with a sledgehammer that just prevents anything hitting my face or eyes. And as for the tile and all that concrete behind it I use a hammer drill with a chisel bit and cut out sections with that chisel bit of the tile, concrete,and mesh all in one. Nothing big just 2'x 2' or 3'x3' sections . something that you can carry it still makes a mess but cutting them out in sections like that made a huge difference and saved time. Anyways I think your videos are great I've learned a lot from them and thank you
I appreciate your videos and you are a master at your trade. Having said that, please get a tripod or a stabilizer as your camera work is very hard to follow without Dramamine. Thank you again for your time and for the help.
I hate that bump at the bottom. You can't put a screw at the bottom to force the backerboard tight against the wall so the bump can be quite substantial causing you to build up the wall with too much thinset. I notch the 2x4 in the corners, tuck it in or build out the wall with strips of wood. Another option is to float the bottom with fat mud to avoid the bump. There are other methods of waterproofing that doesn't leave a bump. Laticrete 9235, noble ts, kerdi etc...
Nice work. I might give your method a shot. It’s easier than the way I do it. I do my bed in two lifts. Lift one is sloped to drain. Liner goes between lift one and lift two. That way, all water goes to three piece drain. In fact, that’s the point of the inner drain. No pebbles around the drain?
I wish you had shown a bit more of the demo. I mean, you went from about a fully functioning bathroom to a roughed in one. No intermediate steps. But i love your videos! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
Love your videos! I am a 54 year old single mom that is preparing to rip out a HUGE jetted tub and replace it with a tiled walk in shower, with the help of my 14 year old son. Do you have any advice for me?...Besides "Don't do it"? lol I have no choice. I can't afford to hire it done. I just bought this house, built in 2002. The tub is disgusting, dated, too big for the heater and I don't use them. The insert shower is stained and so small that my small 5'1" body can't move in there, never mind shave my legs. (That will be a linen closet) My experience level with this type of project is 'nil'! lol Aircraft mechanic for nearly 20 years, built a pool deck by myself and built a wood privacy fence by myself. After many years, both are still standing and solid and the planes are still flying. I am worried about my ability to form the tray. My drain is only 10" from the wall for a 5' long shower. What do you think about the Durock pre-sloped shower tray and curb? Thanks
We are redoing a 100 year old house, had to take out 6 inches of concrete on the floor to get to the dry rotted sub floor....so much fun. I see you use durarock and not hardibacker on the floor, where can we use the hardibacker? It is so much easier to use, but not if it won't hold up. Would it be ok for floors if it were painted with waterproofer?
Well, I checked in with my local masonry guild about a tile setting apprenticeship, but it turns out that they mostly have job sites a few hours north of me, and I would have to commute.. I think I might go in for a carpentry apprenticeship for the time being, and see if I can save up enough money to temporarily relocate
Back when i use to have more energy we use to use 3 guys and flip the cast iron tub on its side and wheel it out here....now since im older and have less energy i just beat on it with a sledge hammer for 2 hours😂💔
Thank you What if I ran out of mortar? You said don’t and it would be bad. But what would happen? If it happened to me, I would make a uniform thickness border of mortar in the periphery, on the edge. Then I would leave the mortar out completely from the center, That space would be filled with the new mortar once Home Depot opens up and I can buy more. If I did that what would happen?
I would not attempt that because there's no guarantee that the whole thing will be solid afterward, you always buy more mortar than you think will need by at least a bag or two, easier to take it back than it is to wait and have to go get more
nice. but I would have like to see you install the dura rock? and I would have like to see the rest of the tub removal, and how you did the drain? and how you moved the tub drain to make it a shower drain?
Why furr? just sister each stud to the depth you need so the durock ends flush and level. You won't need to rip the different thickness. Pan liner height is not subjective. Its 3-4" higher than the curb by code..
so if glass walls come to the middle of the curb and if the shower water goes down the wall up to the glass wall theres no shower pan there to catch the water and it'll just end up rotting the curb, granted it will take time..... when you could easily glue some spare shower pan with the green shower pan/pvc glue and press it down for a good minute or two and no harm no foul..
I sure would like to see a how to do each step video. I really like to learn more about each step. The right way. Not the fly by night one day throw it together way. Thanks
Yes those tubs are a lot of work. I ended up cutting it in half. It was loud and it took me about 30 min it felt like. I recommend charging the customer handsomely. At least 600 to 800
I used the back of my axe and knocked my tub to pieces in 2 minutes. You are the man!!! I’m gonna give you 50$ on Patreon for a consultation! Thanks for the info buddy
Great video👍 im doing a shower drain like this but it doesnt have holes in it for screws. Do you think i need them? Its strange why this brand didnt come with it.
There are some different drains out there that don't have screw holes but on this particular video the holes wouldn't matter because it would not be anchored by screws on a slab floor
Man i redid my bathroom that was built in the late 50s i think and EVERYTHING behind and under the tile was ALL concrete. It sucks tearing out. So dusty and hard to get new to match if you leave your tub in. I was only 20 at the time. I wish i had at least pulled the tub out and removed the concrete behind it as well.
When you mentioned switching from 1/2" to 1/4" durarock base for the floor to match the existing wood floor. Will that make the floor less sturdy or does that not matter? Great work! I appreciate you taking the time to explain your work.
Good video .. it would be cool to do a video and explain an more or less average labor cost , alot of times they get sticker shock and don t under stand why that is.
Whatever works I guess. Me personally, helpers are well worth the money. Pull that thing out in one piece and get it out of there. I value my hearing and strength. As much swinging the mallet it takes and the deafening sound it makes in and enclosed room just doesn't make since to me. But your not the only one I see doing it on RUclips so I guess it's just up to the contractor.
I was wondering, did you have to reset your curb off from the wall about 1/2 inch? I see in the video it's flush with the wall, wasn't sure if you accounted for the 1/2 inch concrete board to form the curb over the wood and liner that will eventually cover it up (we can't see in this video). If you left the curb how it is, once you put the liner, concrete board, and tile down, your curb will be off about 1/2 inch or more from the wall. It wouldn't be flush.
I've already figured it out, once I watched the video a second time. There is no dry wall on the outside wall. Once you put the drywall up on the outside, if it is the same thickness as the concrete board you use to form the curb, then yes, it will be flush. My bad...
Agreed 👍 But I'm relegated to my customers budget and you know how it is when you start messing with old galvanized, one leads to the other and then you replumb the whole house
Building out a shower for my wife. I am glad I found your videos. Thanks for your help. Just so you know, if I screw it up, I will just blame you, hahahahaha, kidding. Thank you for all the details, it's the little things they don't tell you that can really screw you!
Hi Bob, I live in mid-rise condo on the bottom floor with on raised concrete floor -above the community parking garage. I'm remodeling a bathroom. The existing shower drain is coming up through a 6" radius service hole. I was wondering your thoughts on using cement board to compensate for the that service hole...thanks!
Yeah I don't see any problem with gluing down cement board to your cement slab, however I might be inclined to use a couple coats of concrete primer, at the very least make sure your slab is very saturated and when you screed out your thinset use enough of it and make it runny ish... I would probably use some type of weight system also overnight so good adhesion is achieved.
I get the saturation process and the pre slope explanation. Are you saying that your showers are completely watertight and no moisture gets to the mudbed? If so what would be the purpose of a liner or even worrying about weep holes.
This might have already been answered but in your "How to build a shower curb" video you mention not using backer board/dura-rock under the pan liner because it's not necessary but in this remodel it looks like you are. You mention it helps smooth the surface but is there any other benefit to this approach? Thanks
Personally I see no benefit of using a backer board under a liner, whether it be concrete slab like in this video or a wood floor, I just don't see any advantage
@@StarrTile thanks for the quick reply! Great videos with professional insight. I've thoroughly enjoyed watching the content you've procured and appreciate the time it takes to make these informative videos.
So I've seen videos where folks use wet quickrete to pour the shower bed and several like yours where you use a drier mortar bed. Is there a difference in the final result? The quickrete looks to be a little more difficult as you have to float it and there's the possibility of getting it to wet where it self levels. Just curious what are the pros and cons of each?
So although everybody is showing what'ss called a dry pack, the response that I have gotten from homeowners and DIY people is that it doesn't really work out for them, there will be dust and sand on the surface that doesn't really ever go away and or cracking of the pan so I would suggest doing a little wetter mix than using a dry pack , by the way it is not concrete, it's a cement product which is the makeup of mortar, normally one part of cement to four parts of sand
@@StarrTile Oh, damn, you liked the idea! I'm honored. I'm just about to start a curbless job and I saw that you latex caulk the pan liner to the TOP of the durock on the floor in the bathroom proper. I've also seen the liner caulked to the subfloor and then the durock put on top of that. Which do you recommend? And really no issues thinsetting to the liner material, eh? Thanks!
I have never used latex caulking with anything to do with a liner except on the top of the first flange... I have however used caulking to put liner on the floor proper when I do a curbless shower oh, but that liner is overlapped with backer board... Going forward in time when I do curbless showers nowadays I use Schlueter membrane because it is thinner and easier to deal with than liner, however I still use a couple of coats of redgard on top of that
@@StarrTile Thanks. Yeah, the liner that flops out into the room (on the flat floor) was what I referring to. I thought I saw that you caulked that down to the top of the durock on the floor. So, you caulked it to the subfloor and then put durock over that - then thinset and tile. Got it. Thanks for taking the time to respond - you must get a LOT of these.
No the rubber liner would ensure you wouldn't have cracking with minor movement... plus it is enclosed by four sides so it really doesn't have anywhere to expand
All things being equal and if it is done right there shouldn't be any problem, showers have been built since the turn of the century and some fail because of operator malfunction
@@StarrTile thank you for this valuable information. We are in the middle of a bathtub to shower conversion and the guy who came yesterday said he wouldn’t recommended them. But again, he said from the beginning he didn’t know how to make them, he was just giving opinion on what doesn’t know. Thank you for your videos and thank you for answering so fast!
Hi Bob, I'm working on remodeling my shower and I'm struggling with the placement of the niche. I noticed at the end of this video that the back of this niche is just the drywall of the next room, at this point anyway. Do you add Durock or something to the back of the niche to separate the neighboring wall face from the shower? Seems like the noise from the shower would transfer quite well to the neighboring room without some additional barrier and I'd hate to have someone want to hang a picture only to drive the nail right into the niche. Thoughts?
I set another layer of greenboard on that wall in the niche...glue it in well with caulk...and then of course tile it. Sound transfer could happen, but not any more than a regular interior wall. Anyone hanging a picture on the other side needs to have it ruined if they aren't mindful of the niche...they are also short...my niches start at 4 feet and end at 5 feet.
I have over 300 videos.. you are more than welcome to search through them to find out how I do my methods, as it doesn't appear you're trying to learn rather than troll
hello, been marathoning your videos today. thank you for sharing. Question: what is up with your water in the bucket? Why does it look like oatmeal? Did you add something to the water before you add it to the mortar mix?
capt2278 give me a timestamp, the only thing that would be in my bucket would be Mucky water from cleaning my tools, straight water for the mortar mix, or thinset
Hey guy, I read a few comments and they suggest you are in Atlanta, furthermore this shower/ bathroom looks a lot mine that I am about to redo? By any chance are you located in Candler Park? More specifically near Little Five Points? Too many similarities in shape and size and layout, etc. just curious Thank you.
I always cut back 3/8 s into bottom of studs as high as my 2 by8,s so theres plenty of ,room to make your hospital corner folds ,the board will pass over liner with no belying out, it takes bit more time
My only question is how can you be SURE there are no tears in the pan liner after you install it, I mean wouldn't even a small cut be hard to notice and thereby cause leaking in future? Easy to poke holes by accident too?
Because everybody is waterproofing the surface of their pan before they tile so no water will ever get into the mortar bed so there's no point in doing the pre slope
I agree to disagree STAR i feel a pre slope is a great idea any water below will have a lot harder way to find weepers ,in the end a shower after each use should e wiped down or squeegeed dry to, minimize moisture penatrating throught materiels
Hi. Can I use glue adhesive to tile the bathroom even inside the shower area instead using thinset? ???? And there's any consequences if I use the adhesive thank you
StarrTile lol. Good answer so basically im on my owen. What I have to do is build 2 bathrooms and use different products and each one of them so after couple years break the walls and both bathrooms and check for damages and then I will determine the right decision and the products... And I'm using 12×12 glass mint light glass tiles on the walls what is the best thinset I can use at homedepot or lows please?
*IF THIS WAS HELPFUL PLEASE CONTRIBUTE TO ME PATREON OR PAYPAL..THANK YOU !*
www.patreon.com/starrtile for Patreon or StarrTile@yahoo.com for PayPal
StarrTile GOD bless you. Do you offer services in Pennsylvania?
Do you offer service in Jacksonville fl?
Back when there was no RUclips people had to have a mentor like you to get all this good knowledge. I'm living in good times. I can DIY because of pros like you. Thank you.
YESSS!!! Finally someone renovating a 1950s bathroom. I'm just about to tackle a room built the exact same way, I've been watching all these tutorials on more modern houses and ive been worried that I'm going to miss something important that's not required in your typical wood and plaster house. Thank you so much for sharing your methods and tricks of the trade, your a legend🙏
About to do a 1949 remodel. Close enough. We however are going to make it look period “correct!”
Very useful video for bathrooms built in 70's & early 80's. My bathroom was built in 78 and it was same exact same as this one. Same tile, tub, studs against exterior centerblock, metal mesh, and thick cement.
I appreciate how you explain the "What to look our for" in your video.
You say you over explain things. I appreciate it. I can use more info. Most pro video courses lack info. Thanks man.
Always very helpful. Thank you so much for your hard work. You have helped this new homeowner get over the hump and DIY with a newfound level of comfort..
“I probably could, but I’m not going to” lol. Priceless
My shower was built with drywall, then mesh, then concrete. I was able to easily get the tile off then the mesh and concrete, until i got to the bottom tiles, on the walls. The issue was when they put the pan liner in, they put it over the drywall, without putting any backing between the studs. I also had to cut out a full concrete curb. I used a 4.5 inch circular saw with a dimond blade and once I figured out exactly how the curb was made, i was able to remove it pretty quickly. Great videos.
Very Helpful, thank you. I'm going to be starting on my shower soon and I needed a bit of a refresher. I like the level trick, I've never done that
I enjoyed this video. Just something I could watch form start to finish and take in the overall process. I can now look at some other DIY videos for any specific jobs I want to learn more about and compare how different tradesman go about it
Well done and thank you
It is a compliment to you that others want to see you show more of the process. They like the end result of your work, and want to see how you are actually getting from point A to point B. But, you are the camera man and bathroom remodeler, so I fully understand. What I've done is watch videos where you did show detail. We work with what we have. Shannon at House Improvements has a separate person for a camera person, because he has that costly setup available to him. What I like about you is that you teach us how to do these jobs, despite having to film and work at the same time. And, I have learned a great deal. I would rather you continue to make these videos, than stop because you do not have an individual camera person. Shannon does things his way; and you do things your way.
So I made my first video on tile install in the bathroom because of you. I didn't have another person, but I made the video anyway. I'll put it together soon for RUclips.
Thanks for the kind words...looking forward to watching YOUR video !
StarrTile can you tell me the steps for the shower floor.. do you put the plywood down and then durock then the mud? Lil confused also what goes directly on top off the mud
If you have a plywood floor already, just put liner down & pour pan. Concrete floor just needs a liner, then pour pan. There is no need for Durock before pan liner...I mean you COULD put it down but serves no purpose.
StarrTile awesome thank you so much.. I can just waterproof on top of the mud right?
The camera did not record the first half of the job, e.g. demolition and floor damage. This was my first shot at a video. I was disappointed. I'll try again on another job.
That's the old school proper way to do things. All corners get what we old timer call hospital folds...still doing it that exact way to this day! Vanatti construction Michigan
What I do on cast iron tubs is cut them in three sections. That way it's a lot less messier and lighter. I just bring a dolly to take them out.
Real work right there lol. My dad had me do this as a kid
I really appreciate the fact that the guy took over 30 minutes to explain this and show you some of the things that he was doing but he took way too long and jump from the floor to the baseboard to the wall to the shower head he went back and forth a few times I wish you would have just done it step-by-step and made it simple it's a little complicated didn't show enough of the work that was actually been done moving the drain over to the center you know you got to get under there and run those pipes over there's just a whole lot that he left out that you know doesn't explain exactly how to fix this
I've had a lot of experience with those kind of bathrooms and to me they are the worst thing ever to have to tear out and after a few of them of just beating everything out of it I had to think that there has to be an easier way and so for the cast-iron tubs the only way was to beat it out. I usually throw a drop cloth or some kind of tarp over the tub and beat it with a sledgehammer that just prevents anything hitting my face or eyes. And as for the tile and all that concrete behind it I use a hammer drill with a chisel bit and cut out sections with that chisel bit of the tile, concrete,and mesh all in one. Nothing big just 2'x 2' or 3'x3' sections . something that you can carry it still makes a mess but cutting them out in sections like that made a huge difference and saved time. Anyways I think your videos are great I've learned a lot from them and thank you
Dammit man. I do wish you offered your services outside of Atlanta. This is exactly what I need. Great to watch you work. Much respect.
Thank you sir !
I appreciate your videos and you are a master at your trade. Having said that, please get a tripod or a stabilizer as your camera work is very hard to follow without Dramamine. Thank you again for your time and for the help.
I feel like every bathroom you do...looks like the one im doing!!! Layout and all...yep wire mesh...even razor blades in the wall!
I hate that bump at the bottom. You can't put a screw at the bottom to force the backerboard tight against the
wall so the bump can be quite substantial causing you to build up the wall with too much thinset. I notch the 2x4 in the corners, tuck it in or build out the wall with strips of wood. Another option is to float the bottom with fat mud to avoid the bump. There are other methods of waterproofing that doesn't leave a bump. Laticrete 9235, noble ts, kerdi etc...
Your options are valid...but I've personally never had an issue.
In the process of demoing a bathroom identical to that one. I cut the tub in half to remove it. That concertante and wire is a pain to remove.
No pre-slope under liner?
Awesome. If they can't keep up they probably need to hire you.
Nice work. I might give your method a shot. It’s easier than the way I do it. I do my bed in two lifts. Lift one is sloped to drain. Liner goes between lift one and lift two. That way, all water goes to three piece drain. In fact, that’s the point of the inner drain. No pebbles around the drain?
I wish you had shown a bit more of the demo. I mean, you went from about a fully functioning bathroom to a roughed in one. No intermediate steps. But i love your videos! Thank you, thank you, thank you!!!
Here's some tear out....
ruclips.net/video/Rg1b43Jlz58/видео.html
Grinder works awesome cutting cast iron tub
Love your videos! I am a 54 year old single mom that is preparing to rip out a HUGE jetted tub and replace it with a tiled walk in shower, with the help of my 14 year old son. Do you have any advice for me?...Besides "Don't do it"? lol I have no choice. I can't afford to hire it done. I just bought this house, built in 2002. The tub is disgusting, dated, too big for the heater and I don't use them. The insert shower is stained and so small that my small 5'1" body can't move in there, never mind shave my legs. (That will be a linen closet) My experience level with this type of project is 'nil'! lol Aircraft mechanic for nearly 20 years, built a pool deck by myself and built a wood privacy fence by myself. After many years, both are still standing and solid and the planes are still flying. I am worried about my ability to form the tray. My drain is only 10" from the wall for a 5' long shower. What do you think about the Durock pre-sloped shower tray and curb? Thanks
My best advice : Watch LOTS of videos, not just mine.
I don't like pre-fab pans but if it's easier then go for it.
Did you do it, Rookie DIYer?
We are redoing a 100 year old house, had to take out 6 inches of concrete on the floor to get to the dry rotted sub floor....so much fun. I see you use durarock and not hardibacker on the floor, where can we use the hardibacker? It is so much easier to use, but not if it won't hold up. Would it be ok for floors if it were painted with waterproofer?
Well, I checked in with my local masonry guild about a tile setting apprenticeship, but it turns out that they mostly have job sites a few hours north of me, and I would have to commute.. I think I might go in for a carpentry apprenticeship for the time being, and see if I can save up enough money to temporarily relocate
Back when i use to have more energy we use to use 3 guys and flip the cast iron tub on its side and wheel it out here....now since im older and have less energy i just beat on it with a sledge hammer for 2 hours😂💔
More like 15 minutes of hammering
Thank you
What if I ran out of mortar? You said don’t and it would be bad. But what would happen?
If it happened to me, I would make a uniform thickness border of mortar in the periphery, on the edge. Then I would leave the mortar out completely from the center, That space would be filled with the new mortar once Home Depot opens up and I can buy more. If I did that what would happen?
I would not attempt that because there's no guarantee that the whole thing will be solid afterward, you always buy more mortar than you think will need by at least a bag or two, easier to take it back than it is to wait and have to go get more
I advise you to pre slope, and put dampers on your pipes
nice. but I would have like to see you install the dura rock? and I would have like to see the rest of the tub removal, and how you did the drain? and how you moved the tub drain to make it a shower drain?
Why furr? just sister each stud to the depth you need so the durock ends flush and level. You won't need to rip the different thickness. Pan liner height is not subjective. Its 3-4" higher than the curb by code..
so if glass walls come to the middle of the curb and if the shower water goes down the wall up to the glass wall theres no shower pan there to catch the water and it'll just end up rotting the curb, granted it will take time..... when you could easily glue some spare shower pan with the green shower pan/pvc glue and press it down for a good minute or two and no harm no foul..
Exactly!! Thank you. I pointed out the same to him in another vid but he's the type who believes nobody knows anything. Ruining our trade!!
Missing studs shower body wall you have to lnstall slope cement under liner first gravel around drain top coat
I sure would like to see a how to do each step video. I really like to learn more about each step. The right way. Not the fly by night one day throw it together way. Thanks
@@pipi7731 ruclips.net/video/5Gp-PgGYi64/видео.htmlsi=Ol6BUSjJQ0UGQHvt
Starr Tile Why do you prefer Durock over hardy backer board?
Hardie backer is like cardboard when wet
Yes those tubs are a lot of work. I ended up cutting it in half. It was loud and it took me about 30 min it felt like. I recommend charging the customer handsomely. At least 600 to 800
I used the back of my axe and knocked my tub to pieces in 2 minutes. You are the man!!! I’m gonna give you 50$ on Patreon for a consultation! Thanks for the info buddy
Great video👍 im doing a shower drain like this but it doesnt have holes in it for screws. Do you think i need them? Its strange why this brand didnt come with it.
There are some different drains out there that don't have screw holes but on this particular video the holes wouldn't matter because it would not be anchored by screws on a slab floor
Man i redid my bathroom that was built in the late 50s i think and EVERYTHING behind and under the tile was ALL concrete. It sucks tearing out. So dusty and hard to get new to match if you leave your tub in. I was only 20 at the time. I wish i had at least pulled the tub out and removed the concrete behind it as well.
When you mentioned switching from 1/2" to 1/4" durarock base for the floor to match the existing wood floor. Will that make the floor less sturdy or does that not matter? Great work! I appreciate you taking the time to explain your work.
I'm considering some diy work in our house. It was built in 1975, should I anticipate this tar paper, wire mesh, concrete combo?
YES!
More than likely
Good video .. it would be cool to do a video and explain an more or less average labor cost , alot of times they get sticker shock and don t under stand why that is.
Ryckygee Garrigosa maax showers
That's old school plaster work,I have done so much of this type repairing it,
Thanks Very Professional!
Whatever works I guess. Me personally, helpers are well worth the money. Pull that thing out in one piece and get it out of there. I value my hearing and strength. As much swinging the mallet it takes and the deafening sound it makes in and enclosed room just doesn't make since to me. But your not the only one I see doing it on RUclips so I guess it's just up to the contractor.
that was very helpful. thank you
I was wondering, did you have to reset your curb off from the wall about 1/2 inch? I see in the video it's flush with the wall, wasn't sure if you accounted for the 1/2 inch concrete board to form the curb over the wood and liner that will eventually cover it up (we can't see in this video). If you left the curb how it is, once you put the liner, concrete board, and tile down, your curb will be off about 1/2 inch or more from the wall. It wouldn't be flush.
I've already figured it out, once I watched the video a second time. There is no dry wall on the outside wall. Once you put the drywall up on the outside, if it is the same thickness as the concrete board you use to form the curb, then yes, it will be flush. My bad...
Thanx man.
As a plumber, I always get rid of galvanized water piping when able. Just sayin
Agreed 👍
But I'm relegated to my customers budget and you know how it is when you start messing with old galvanized, one leads to the other and then you replumb the whole house
Building out a shower for my wife. I am glad I found your videos. Thanks for your help. Just so you know, if I screw it up, I will just blame you, hahahahaha, kidding. Thank you for all the details, it's the little things they don't tell you that can really screw you!
Pan liner looks good, but you need to do a pre- slope
We don't do a pre slope anymore and they don't work as designed anyway...we're doing sealed system which makes a pre slope irrelevant
You don’t explain how it’s done. All you do is talk about it.
Love it dude
Looks like my bathroom I'm doing right now! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hi Bob, I live in mid-rise condo on the bottom floor with on raised concrete floor -above the community parking garage. I'm remodeling a bathroom. The existing shower drain is coming up through a 6" radius service hole. I was wondering your thoughts on using cement board to compensate for the that service hole...thanks!
Yeah I don't see any problem with gluing down cement board to your cement slab, however I might be inclined to use a couple coats of concrete primer, at the very least make sure your slab is very saturated and when you screed out your thinset use enough of it and make it runny ish... I would probably use some type of weight system also overnight so good adhesion is achieved.
thanks for the video, very detailed for sure. you do amazing work
I get the saturation process and the pre slope explanation. Are you saying that your showers are completely watertight and no moisture gets to the mudbed? If so what would be the purpose of a liner or even worrying about weep holes.
The liner protects the subfloor ( insurance ) and the weep holes have been around A LONG TIME, prior to changing methods.
Shouldn't the cement board be staggered with an 1/8 inch gap?
Appears there are mold issues that were not dealt with?
This might have already been answered but in your "How to build a shower curb" video you mention not using backer board/dura-rock under the pan liner because it's not necessary but in this remodel it looks like you are. You mention it helps smooth the surface but is there any other benefit to this approach? Thanks
Personally I see no benefit of using a backer board under a liner, whether it be concrete slab like in this video or a wood floor, I just don't see any advantage
@@StarrTile thanks for the quick reply! Great videos with professional insight. I've thoroughly enjoyed watching the content you've procured and appreciate the time it takes to make these informative videos.
Love your work and insight very helpful
Love your videos. You share great insight for both Pros and DIYers alike. The highlighting the mistakes has been so helpful for me. Subbed!
Do the fured-out studs have to be flushed to the 2x6 blocks? Love your content, by the way. 👍
Yes they do, and thanks for the compliment 👍👌
So I've seen videos where folks use wet quickrete to pour the shower bed and several like yours where you use a drier mortar bed. Is there a difference in the final result? The quickrete looks to be a little more difficult as you have to float it and there's the possibility of getting it to wet where it self levels. Just curious what are the pros and cons of each?
So although everybody is showing what'ss called a dry pack, the response that I have gotten from homeowners and DIY people is that it doesn't really work out for them, there will be dust and sand on the surface that doesn't really ever go away and or cracking of the pan so I would suggest doing a little wetter mix than using a dry pack , by the way it is not concrete, it's a cement product which is the makeup of mortar, normally one part of cement to four parts of sand
@@StarrTile Appreciate the reply. Learning a lot from your videos. Thanks!
@@StarrTile Very true Bob...........spot on!! I wondered why your pans looked so good...........better than most Ive seen on youtube
How 'bout avoiding the bump out all together by putting a couple of layers of spare liner on the studs in between?
Great idea 👍👌
@@StarrTile Oh, damn, you liked the idea! I'm honored. I'm just about to start a curbless job and I saw that you latex caulk the pan liner to the TOP of the durock on the floor in the bathroom proper. I've also seen the liner caulked to the subfloor and then the durock put on top of that. Which do you recommend? And really no issues thinsetting to the liner material, eh? Thanks!
I have never used latex caulking with anything to do with a liner except on the top of the first flange...
I have however used caulking to put liner on the floor proper when I do a curbless shower oh, but that liner is overlapped with backer board...
Going forward in time when I do curbless showers nowadays I use Schlueter membrane because it is thinner and easier to deal with than liner, however I still use a couple of coats of redgard on top of that
@@StarrTile Thanks. Yeah, the liner that flops out into the room (on the flat floor) was what I referring to. I thought I saw that you caulked that down to the top of the durock on the floor. So, you caulked it to the subfloor and then put durock over that - then thinset and tile. Got it. Thanks for taking the time to respond - you must get a LOT of these.
The tub is a nice cast iron. It’s possible to restore it.
Quick question, how does the concrete shower pan functions with expansion and contraction? Does it create cracks overtime with the house movement?
No the rubber liner would ensure you wouldn't have cracking with minor movement... plus it is enclosed by four sides so it really doesn't have anywhere to expand
@@StarrTile and how about the expansion of the wood on the curb or surround?
All things being equal and if it is done right there shouldn't be any problem, showers have been built since the turn of the century and some fail because of operator malfunction
@@StarrTile thank you for this valuable information. We are in the middle of a bathtub to shower conversion and the guy who came yesterday said he wouldn’t recommended them. But again, he said from the beginning he didn’t know how to make them, he was just giving opinion on what doesn’t know. Thank you for your videos and thank you for answering so fast!
Hi Bob, I'm working on remodeling my shower and I'm struggling with the placement of the niche. I noticed at the end of this video that the back of this niche is just the drywall of the next room, at this point anyway. Do you add Durock or something to the back of the niche to separate the neighboring wall face from the shower? Seems like the noise from the shower would transfer quite well to the neighboring room without some additional barrier and I'd hate to have someone want to hang a picture only to drive the nail right into the niche. Thoughts?
I set another layer of greenboard on that wall in the niche...glue it in well with caulk...and then of course tile it. Sound transfer could happen, but not any more than a regular interior wall. Anyone hanging a picture on the other side needs to have it ruined if they aren't mindful of the niche...they are also short...my niches start at 4 feet and end at 5 feet.
Oh okay. Thanks for clearing that up for me. Really appreciate your videos!
I was home from college when my parents had their bathroom redone. The demo of the cast iron tub had to be the loudest thing I've ever heard.
Yes, I hope Bob was wearing hearing and eye protection.
ajm5636 what a waste of a nice tub
you do not ever use the pre sloped foam shower floor pans?
Is 60 pound Quikrete Type S Mortar mix ok to use?
How are you tying in your topical waterproof system to the drain......no divot method?
I have over 300 videos.. you are more than welcome to search through them to find out how I do my methods, as it doesn't appear you're trying to learn rather than troll
hello, been marathoning your videos today. thank you for sharing. Question: what is up with your water in the bucket? Why does it look like oatmeal? Did you add something to the water before you add it to the mortar mix?
capt2278 give me a timestamp, the only thing that would be in my bucket would be Mucky water from cleaning my tools, straight water for the mortar mix, or thinset
thanks.. 23:54
capt2278 yeah that's just muckey water, has some sawdust in it at the top
Last minute Home Depot run well that sounds like kind of familiar what I've been through I believe we all been through there
best intro music!
Hey guy, I read a few comments and they suggest you are in Atlanta, furthermore this shower/ bathroom looks a lot mine that I am about to redo? By any chance are you located in Candler Park? More specifically near Little Five Points? Too many similarities in shape and size and layout, etc. just curious Thank you.
No actually the shower was in st. Petersburg Florida
Have you ever used 1/2in plywood..for backer board
Nope
I always cut back 3/8 s into bottom of studs as high as my 2 by8,s so theres plenty of ,room to make your hospital corner folds ,the board will pass over liner with no belying out, it takes bit more time
Sad to see that heavy duty tub go.
My only question is how can you be SURE there are no tears in the pan liner after you install it, I mean wouldn't even a small cut be hard to notice and thereby cause leaking in future? Easy to poke holes by accident too?
Pan liner is very thick, it would be very difficult to cut it without knowing you did.
Its scare to built a shower in 2nd floor is it safe if welll done ? Or its not recoment to make one in 2nd fllor ?
@@johndoe-ci1cy ... having it done properly is no problem.
Is it okay if theres no slope under the liner? Looks to me that its completely flst under the liner!
The mud pan and the walls and everything around it as waterproof so everything below it is irrelevant
What song is playing in the background at the 12:30 mark? I can barely hear it and it is driving me crazy, I know I know it 😂
Don't Fear the Reaper by Blue Oyster Cult
No wonder that bathroom lasted so long. Who'd want to tackle that.
have any tips/videos to install a steam in your shower? is it possible to have a steam/tub/shower?
Sorry no videos on that. You could have a tub in a steam shower but it needs to be a fiberglass or other than metal tub.
can't turn sink drain up-above level of arm to CI stack w/o new vent above new sink drain opening
This is Good imformation,,!
good run through of how to.
Dope video
Why no pre slant before the shower liner?
Because everybody is waterproofing the surface of their pan before they tile so no water will ever get into the mortar bed so there's no point in doing the pre slope
This is y I demo the whole bathroom
ever heard of a PRESLOPE . your beds will turn back to mud bud and PT DF for your curb and blocking
I have 270 videos..I discuss that topic in length..both PRESLOPE & CURBS...
I suggest researching before commenting
That's funny.... Guy commenting that you need PT over durock SMH lol
Why pt, do you plan on water contact
I agree to disagree STAR i feel a pre slope is a great idea any water below will have a lot harder way to find weepers ,in the end a shower after each use should e wiped down or squeegeed dry to, minimize moisture penatrating throught materiels
Hi. Can I use glue adhesive to tile the bathroom even inside the shower area instead using thinset? ???? And there's any consequences if I use the adhesive thank you
No and Yes
StarrTile lol. Good answer so basically im on my owen. What I have to do is build 2 bathrooms and use different products and each one of them so after couple years break the walls and both bathrooms and check for damages and then I will determine the right decision and the products... And I'm using 12×12 glass mint light glass tiles on the walls what is the best thinset I can use at homedepot or lows please?
THE MECHANIC I don't shop at Lowes..HD carries versabond thinset and is what I'd use.
I do PVC liner, much like shown here, AND two good coats of Red Guard on top of the wall board and shower plan. Defense in Depth!
Aren't the tubes worth selling making a few extra dollars..
Is mortar the same as cement?
Cement is a binder, it is found in mortar and concrete
I can tell you are a professional list
Why is John Lennon talking in the background in the beginning?