Really fantastic vid, thanks for sharing! I can't imagine any better explanation and presentation: All the points well explained, to the point, good vid and production, pencil markings are quite helpful. Here's a question: 99% of the time on sawing exercises (mostly MDF or plywood) I find the tracks stay put without the need for clamping. Do you find that it is necessary to clamp the track or is that a habit or precautionary exercise?
Thanks for being the best in the business at instructional videos, Jason! You’ve single-handedly advanced my woodworking skills by a decade. Much appreciated!
I have had this system for several years. I love it. I don't make that many cabinets so when I do I usually look for a refresher on how to use this system. Thank you, you explanation was wonderful, easy to understand. I kind of want to go out to the shop right now and make some shelf pin holes in a project i am doing. Thanks again for a great video.
A bit late to the party, but I am diving into making cabinets for the TWO kitchens, bathrooms, laundry room, walk-in pantry ... it goes on, for our 1901 Victorian Farmhouse. As a Canadian, I am committed to and appreciate the simplicity of the metric system for cabinet making. I would LOVE to see a video strictly on using the metric system for a complete cabinet build: carcass, toe kick, drawers, doors ... etc.
You would do well to glue another strip to the bottom front edge of the wooden alignment guides so they touch the workpiece, it will take parallax out of your alignment.
Always a pleasure to see your videos. I’m a beginner full equipped in Festool and now TSO 😅 enjoying learning with you and Sedge. From Spain all the best. Paco
Thank you! I’ve been struggling with the choice between a line boring machine and the LR32 system for my small business………I think you’ve sold me on the idea.
Very nice video. I own the LR 32 system and have used it a few times but certainly didn't get the full value out of it. This video clears up many of the questions I had. I'd be interested in seeing how the system helps with the door side of the hinge. Thanks again for a truly helpful video!
I just used my LR 32 system for the first time today and that clamp is exactly what I'm missing. Everything worked great, but the clamps that came with it really slowed things down for me. Also going to make those guides Peter Millard came up with. Those two things should speed things up significantly.
Great video Jason. If you were to add a small piece of wood to the front that takes up the space of the thickness of the LR32 and the surface of your shelf side, it would line up perfectly versus eyeballing it. There are times it gets deceiving and may be off a hair. I am sure that it don't make that much of a difference, but for as perfect as you make your projects, it may help. Thank you for everything that you do and of course, thank you for your service.
I stumbled through usage of the LR-32 SYS in building out a large set of closet built-in cabinets for our MBR. They came out "ok", however, I wish that I had seen your video, Jason, in January 2020 :>) - Needless to say, the next project (currently underway) will implement your tips & jigs. Thanks so much for making this excellent video.
I have an adapter plate that allows me to use my Porter Cable 890 router on then LR32 base plate. Works slick and my dust collection is as good as a Festool router. Out of the LR32 kit I bought just what I needed, much like you I use a spacer block for placing my rail correctly. Here's one for you, DYK, from the edge of your cabinet to the metal front edge of your LR32 guide rail is 64mm. This puts your centered router bit in the base plate, right at 37mm from the front edge.
Really nice clear video, I'm so happy you took the time, I had a question _ I see how you cut the hinge screw holes but I would have loved you to deminstrate how you cut the large holes for the hinges
Thanks Jason, I have owned the LR32 for a few years now and this really clarified some things for me ! that little jig idea is great! once I master it i'll have to do a video myself. keep on crushing it!
Good walk through! Yep, the Millard position aids are great! - Especially in a mid-row situation (Total of 3 row of holes, for drawer slides that may need extra screw support) But, you may have done it by now: Festool end stops need calibrating straight out of the box - otherwise the rulers won’t match… It’s in the manual - Use the end stop pin and align with the U grove in the router plate.
Try pushing the base down first - enough to make the centering mandrill protrude and tighten the plunge handle. Then install the indexing plate. You’ll find it’s much faster
Jason, I follow your channel and really enjoy your style and I always learn something new. I know you have committed to going all in on metric the system in your shop and have been inviting, but not forcing, others to follow. I have nothing against the metric system, I’m comfortable using both but until now I really didn’t have a need to. I’m truly impressed with the LR-32 system, I understood what it did, but your video brought it all together in a practical hands-on way, great tutorial. Now I must go over to Peter’s site and give him some props on the jig, you do know he has longest 10min videos on RUclips, right? 😁 Oh, and I’ll have to order a 600mm T-Square to supplement the 24” I just ordered. More Woodpeckers tools, darn! 🤦♂️ But above all else Jason, thank you for your service! Chuck
So helpful, especially with the distance jig and Blum info, thank you! The Mafell Duo-Dowler also works great with 5mm drills (sadly those are a quite expensive) and the „K“-Pin. There is also a registering bar to make it trivially easy. Sadly this bar is 230 Euros and it’s 1600mm extension is 350 Euros, which gets into the cost area of LR32, with the disadvantage this this special rail cannot be used as a regular guide rail and the resale value will be quite low. Without these rails the process might be a bit more error prone than LR32 for a hobbyist.
I really like the idea of being able to use it to add the holes for the drawer slides. I just built a cabinet and used a Kreg jig to do the shelf pins. It worked. But looks like the LR32 definitely is faster. But also, and much more important, much cleaner holes. Question… I don’t use the bloom undermount slides. I use side mount soft close. Will that work for most slides? I’m guessing specific screws would need to be used. Great system.
Pretty much any slide you use it will work. The spacing between will be different depending on length of slides. Every slide I have used has had a front locating hole that will work with the 37 mm setback
Great video thanks for this. Question for you, would you be able to use a different guide rail system like the tso instead of the one provided as part of the lr32 kit?
I'm looking at purchasing the Woodpeckers parallel guide for ripping 8x4 sheets down. Would you recommend the Metric version over the imperial for use in conjuction with the LR32?
Another method that works well for me is to take out the splinter guard from the rail then use approx. 63.75mm, 191.75mm, 287.75mm, 415.75mm by say 200mm blocks of hardboard. I then just reference off of the front of the carcass (use finger or block) to the front of the rail and get 37mm set-back hole and other screw holes for drawer slides. (accuride 28inch slide for example here). This way it’s a bit more accurate since there are no measurements or pencil lines and it’s even easier (maybe) to make than Peter Millard’s. The downside is, now no splinter guard for the rail. For the back, I reference off of 63.75mm block (26.75+37mm) and with back material to setback 37mm from back panel… works nicely for shelves (not drawer slides).
Hi Jason First thanks for your great channel! I am trying to build the festool roll cart as festool has a drawing for that comes with there drawers. But there is something i am trying to figure out and that is how to make the first hole 8 mm from the edge of the cabinet side??? Hope you can help. Best wishes Anders from Denmark
Hi Jason! I've just bought the LR 32 complete system with the FS 1400/2 LR32 rail. My balanced cabinet side panel is exeactly 960mm. I put the locating bars on the rail, and the distance between the two bars is only 959mm. Do You have any idea? I didn't see any possibilty to adjust the bars. Thanks.
Thanks! One question: how do you get the track to align so that the bottom hole lines up 37mm from the bottom of the cabinet, especially with varying top and bottom piece thicknesses?
@@bentswoodworking The "standard" minimum clearance from the bottom of the cabinet for a Blum under-mount hole install is 37mm. Since the 5mm every 32mm holes are cut before assembly, how do you (or can you?) use the Festool rail to get 37mm plus the width of the bottom piece (18 or 12mm) - so 55 or 49 mm? I'd like to punch out a bunch of cabinets with a bottom drawer using the Blum Tandem Blumotion runners. I know how to make a custom jig (I have a Shaper Origin), but I like the durability of the metal rail vs warping ply or soggy dog-eared MDF. That is my question.
Jason, did you apply a protective finish to your MFT/3 table tops? Yours look darker and slightly glossy. Mine look more like flat virgin MDF (other than the saw kerfs and some glue stains). If so, what did you use and are you pleased with the results?
Ok figured it out. 37mm was the important measurement, drilling the uppermost hinge screw locations, followed by an offset from the rear and halving the distance from the inside hinge screws! Thanks. It’s easier but I don’t own a Festool router. Haha 😂
To parrot other comments, great video. I've been using the Rockler Pro shelf pin jig. Works great, but I get tear out on the edge of the holes.....yes, I bought a new drill bit. Then I usually have to go back with a drill bit and clean out the debris from the holes. Not terribly time consuming, but a pain in the butt. With the tear out, the holes look sloppy if you look real close. Don't ever look at my work real close.😀 I assume the LR 32 holes act as a zero clearance? Or do you have a similar problem. I'm thinking about "investing" in this system.
Jason, what is the measurement from the edge of the rail to the end of the jig that you line up. This has to end up at the center line of the router bit...
Question about your son's cabinet shown at the 25min mark(would like to see more of that vid). How do align the bottom drawer slide using the LR32 system. I have looked over the blum catalog and the Tandem diagram shows the screw holes located at 25mm(lower) 37mm (upper) from the bottom of the side. If I set the LR32 using the 16mm offset the bottom drawer will not sit a the bottom of the cabinet and alight with the 32mm holes. Im sure I overlooked something but I cannot figure it out. Thanks for any help
Jason, this is a great instructional video. I've priced out the system components and they cost as much together as a line boring machine (like the tooltech) which can drill 13 holes at once. Have you considered a line boring machine?
Jason did say early in the video that he was using the Festool VAC-SYS vacuum clamping system. He's got that mounted off the side of his bench and the workpiece is held in place with a vacuum. Very handy and very expensive (even for Festool).
Great video!! I am trying to also use the Blum hardware and obtain a catalogue like the one you displayed. I tried to inquire online with no luck. What worked for you?
Have you ever done a start to finish video of planning/design and execution and build of euro style frameless cabinets. If instead of naming your live episodes by number, but also by content it would be easier to search for the educational content.
@@bentswoodworking Awesome I look forward to it, personally I think the adjustable feet make a lot of sense for the cabinet kick space with the snap-on front kickboard, sure makes leveling a breeze and no shims!
Another great video Jason! Am I correct to assume that the sample side panel method you used may not work with drawer slides, since the distance between your front and back rows may not align with the drawer slide hole spacing?
It is totally based off the size of the slides. The 37mm spacing on the front would work on just about any slide. You would just have to know the measurements for the other holes
You sir are an amazing teacher. All your videos explain everything. I'm a cabinet refinisher and trim carpenter, I recently started building kitchen cabinets and I love it. I have only built 3 kitchens so far and I'm on my first frameless kitchen. I have been watching your videos for a while now and I've learned soooo much. I just bought the LR32 system and I'm so thankful for this video. My question is you mentioned that you don't edgband the top and bottom of the uppers. What do you put underneath the uppers? Am i missing something? The kitchen I'm building is going in stained oak. Thank you so much.
Really impressive video!! Thorough and very informative! Thanks! Have you ever tried using the LR32 rail and guide plate to make an MFT table (3x32mm=96mm hole spacing!)
Great as always! Just one comment,you don't need to reset parallel guides, you just need to make the groove first, that's how the pin on the guide sits in it, so you always use 37 mm without changing.
![I Make an MFT top with the LR32 rail [video 424][gifted/ad**]](/img/1.gif)
What a superb video. Could not have been better explained. I now need to get started on my kitchen cabinets!!! Thank you.
Glad you found it helpful!
Really fantastic vid, thanks for sharing! I can't imagine any better explanation and presentation: All the points well explained, to the point, good vid and production, pencil markings are quite helpful.
Here's a question: 99% of the time on sawing exercises (mostly MDF or plywood) I find the tracks stay put without the need for clamping. Do you find that it is necessary to clamp the track or is that a habit or precautionary exercise?
Thanks for being the best in the business at instructional videos, Jason! You’ve single-handedly advanced my woodworking skills by a decade. Much appreciated!
I have had this system for several years. I love it. I don't make that many cabinets so when I do I usually look for a refresher on how to use this system. Thank you, you explanation was wonderful, easy to understand. I kind of want to go out to the shop right now and make some shelf pin holes in a project i am doing. Thanks again for a great video.
You’re welcome!
A bit late to the party, but I am diving into making cabinets for the TWO kitchens, bathrooms, laundry room, walk-in pantry ... it goes on, for our 1901 Victorian Farmhouse. As a Canadian, I am committed to and appreciate the simplicity of the metric system for cabinet making. I would LOVE to see a video strictly on using the metric system for a complete cabinet build: carcass, toe kick, drawers, doors ... etc.
That sounds like a interesting idea. I will definitely add that to the list!
You would do well to glue another strip to the bottom front edge of the wooden alignment guides so they touch the workpiece, it will take parallax out of your alignment.
That's what I was thinking. Great video though and this system sure is fast.
Always a pleasure to see your videos. I’m a beginner full equipped in Festool and now TSO 😅 enjoying learning with you and Sedge. From Spain all the best. Paco
Awesome, thank you!
Great video and the best explanation I’ve watched on the LR32 system. Thank you! From PERU
You’re welcome
This video is excellent. I will be using my LR 32 for the first time this weekend I feel much better prepared. Thanks!
Very helpful. Just purchased the system. Will use it to make cabinets for garage then graduate to the house. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Yeah man. Shop/garage projects are excellent places to try new techniques and polish up skills. 👍
Jason, I follow your channel, your presentation is one of the best. Festool should pay you. Keep up the great video content.
Thank you. I appreciate it
You probably don’t read this late comment. But it did make my day so much easier.
Thanks!
>>Patrik 🇸🇪
Glad to hear that that!!! 👍👍
Thanks for sharing the excellent video. I do not own a LR32 but with your explanation on the system I look forward to buying.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Such a great video. Very insightful and straightforward. Thanks
Thanks Jason, I was just starting some cabinets and just purchased the LR 32 system. This clears up quite a bit
I’m glad you found it helpful. Should be a nice tool for your upcoming project
Very good video and explanation and you speak very clear so it's easy to understand. Thank you very much. Greetings from Germany
Your very welcome
Thank you! I’ve been struggling with the choice between a line boring machine and the LR32 system for my small business………I think you’ve sold me on the idea.
You're very welcome!
Very nice video. I own the LR 32 system and have used it a few times but certainly didn't get the full value out of it. This video clears up many of the questions I had. I'd be interested in seeing how the system helps with the door side of the hinge. Thanks again for a truly helpful video!
I’ll do another video covering that as well
This was an absolutely fantastic video. Thank you so much. I am just getting into the cabinetry game and this system is going to be a game changer
I just used my LR 32 system for the first time today and that clamp is exactly what I'm missing. Everything worked great, but the clamps that came with it really slowed things down for me. Also going to make those guides Peter Millard came up with. Those two things should speed things up significantly.
Another great video using festool👍 peter Millard is great also
Peter is great!
Great video Jason. If you were to add a small piece of wood to the front that takes up the space of the thickness of the LR32 and the surface of your shelf side, it would line up perfectly versus eyeballing it. There are times it gets deceiving and may be off a hair. I am sure that it don't make that much of a difference, but for as perfect as you make your projects, it may help. Thank you for everything that you do and of course, thank you for your service.
Thanks Jamie, and I agree. I am actually working on developing a cnc cut piece for that reason. Something more precise with a different material 😬
I would also suggest removing the cut strip so that doesn’t change the width of your rail.
@@bentswoodworking Did you ever end up making one?
😊soooooo Nice 👍 you are givning me confidence to build my own cabinets , big thanks from Sweden
Awesome video! Please continue with more detailed LR 32 videos. Would definitely like one on the whole under mount drawer slide installation
I will definitely do something like that in the future 👍
I stumbled through usage of the LR-32 SYS in building out a large set of closet built-in cabinets for our MBR. They came out "ok", however, I wish that I had seen your video, Jason, in January 2020 :>) - Needless to say, the next project (currently underway) will implement your tips & jigs. Thanks so much for making this excellent video.
You’re welcome
Great video and the best explanation I’ve watched on the LR32 system. Thank you!
You’re welcome
I have an adapter plate that allows me to use my Porter Cable 890 router on then LR32 base plate. Works slick and my dust collection is as good as a Festool router. Out of the LR32 kit I bought just what I needed, much like you I use a spacer block for placing my rail correctly. Here's one for you, DYK, from the edge of your cabinet to the metal front edge of your LR32 guide rail is 64mm. This puts your centered router bit in the base plate, right at 37mm from the front edge.
Those flat bottom srews at 10:49, for the I suppose 5mm dia holes, what size/type are those?
5mm euro screws
@@bentswoodworking Thanks. They seem to be labeled 6,3 here in Sweden.
The ones for 5mm holes.
Really nice clear video, I'm so happy you took the time, I had a question _ I see how you cut the hinge screw holes but I would have loved you to deminstrate how you cut the large holes for the hinges
I plan another video in the future on that 👍
Great video! The LR32 system is a want for me
I have the LR32 system, I've found it to be a fussy thing to set up
And went back to using the M.E.G. jig
Much more freedom and sets up in seconds
Thanks Jason, I have owned the LR32 for a few years now and this really clarified some things for me ! that little jig idea is great! once I master it i'll have to do a video myself. keep on crushing it!
Glad you enjoyed it 👊🏼
Good walk through! Yep, the Millard position aids are great! - Especially in a mid-row situation (Total of 3 row of holes, for drawer slides that may need extra screw support)
But, you may have done it by now: Festool end stops need calibrating straight out of the box - otherwise the rulers won’t match…
It’s in the manual - Use the end stop pin and align with the U grove in the router plate.
In my opinion Festool would be wise to use this video to explain how to use the system. Extremely good content.
Thanks John! glad you enjoy the content
They have. a couple of them on their RUclips channel under the Festool Live!
Wonderful and thank you for sharing, I actually understood why it is a 32/96 spacing
Glad you found it helpful
Well done Jason. Very thorough in your explanation. I can see how this could easily speed up kitchen cabinet builds
Thanks buddy
Try pushing the base down first - enough to make the centering mandrill protrude and tighten the plunge handle. Then install the indexing plate. You’ll find it’s much faster
That’s a great tip! Thank you
You explain LR 32 system very good, thank you very much
Let me know what you guys think or if you have any questions below. 👍
Thanks for taking the time To share do you have a blessed day
You’re welcome
Jason, I follow your channel and really enjoy your style and I always learn something new. I know you have committed to going all in on metric the system in your shop and have been inviting, but not forcing, others to follow. I have nothing against the metric system, I’m comfortable using both but until now I really didn’t have a need to. I’m truly impressed with the LR-32 system, I understood what it did, but your video brought it all together in a practical hands-on way, great tutorial. Now I must go over to Peter’s site and give him some props on the jig, you do know he has longest 10min videos on RUclips, right? 😁 Oh, and I’ll have to order a 600mm T-Square to supplement the 24” I just ordered. More Woodpeckers tools, darn! 🤦♂️
But above all else Jason,
thank you for your service!
Chuck
Thank you and I’m glad you found it helpful 👍👍
So helpful, especially with the distance jig and Blum info, thank you! The Mafell Duo-Dowler also works great with 5mm drills (sadly those are a quite expensive) and the „K“-Pin. There is also a registering bar to make it trivially easy. Sadly this bar is 230 Euros and it’s 1600mm extension is 350 Euros, which gets into the cost area of LR32, with the disadvantage this this special rail cannot be used as a regular guide rail and the resale value will be quite low. Without these rails the process might be a bit more error prone than LR32 for a hobbyist.
I really like the idea of being able to use it to add the holes for the drawer slides. I just built a cabinet and used a Kreg jig to do the shelf pins. It worked. But looks like the LR32 definitely is faster. But also, and much more important, much cleaner holes. Question… I don’t use the bloom undermount slides. I use side mount soft close. Will that work for most slides? I’m guessing specific screws would need to be used. Great system.
Pretty much any slide you use it will work. The spacing between will be different depending on length of slides. Every slide I have used has had a front locating hole that will work with the 37 mm setback
Brilliant video Jason.
Glad you enjoyed it
Merci beaucoup , grâce à vous j’ai mieux compris le système lr32 good job 👌🏻👍🏻
Excellent training tutorial
Glad you found it helpful
Great video thanks for this. Question for you, would you be able to use a different guide rail system like the tso instead of the one provided as part of the lr32 kit?
To use the or 32 you need the Festool rail
Awesome video...thank you! Been looking at the LR 32.
You’re welcome
I'm looking at purchasing the Woodpeckers parallel guide for ripping 8x4 sheets down. Would you recommend the Metric version over the imperial for use in conjuction with the LR32?
I have the metric but I prefer the TSO parallel guides
@@bentswoodworking Good to know. Since commenting I have also moved in the direction of TSO over Woodpecker. I appreciate your thoughts on it.
Another method that works well for me is to take out the splinter guard from the rail then use approx. 63.75mm, 191.75mm, 287.75mm, 415.75mm by say 200mm blocks of hardboard. I then just reference off of the front of the carcass (use finger or block) to the front of the rail and get 37mm set-back hole and other screw holes for drawer slides. (accuride 28inch slide for example here). This way it’s a bit more accurate since there are no measurements or pencil lines and it’s even easier (maybe) to make than Peter Millard’s. The downside is, now no splinter guard for the rail. For the back, I reference off of 63.75mm block (26.75+37mm) and with back material to setback 37mm from back panel… works nicely for shelves (not drawer slides).
Interesting, thank you for sharing 👍
As to the back of the panel and 37mm, if you had plowed out the groove for the cabinet back, you would register off of that. I would do it that way.
Exactly ny thoughts... 🏅
Well explained very good indeed.
Thank you
Hi Jason
First thanks for your great channel!
I am trying to build the festool roll cart as festool has a drawing for that comes with there drawers. But there is something i am trying to figure out and that is how to make the first hole 8 mm from the edge of the cabinet side??? Hope you can help.
Best wishes
Anders from Denmark
I wold mark a line and use my setup blocks to align it.
@@bentswoodworking thanks Jason 👍 maybe I will do a small video about how to get it done 😉
Super helpful. I appreciate you.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video.. Very nicely explained
Thank you
When cutting the balanced panel how much to you allow for the thickness of the edgebanding? Good video btw.
I’m now thinking edgebanding doesn’t go on the top and bottom of an upper cabinet...
Correct. Typically it does not so it isn’t a concern. 👍
I'm building some oak cabinets that will be stained. Am I missing something? Why not edgband the bottoms?
Thank You for this really useful video.
You’re welcome
Great explanation! Very nice. Just subscribed 😊
Hi Jason! I've just bought the LR 32 complete system with the FS 1400/2 LR32 rail. My balanced cabinet side panel is exeactly 960mm. I put the locating bars on the rail, and the distance between the two bars is only 959mm. Do You have any idea? I didn't see any possibilty to adjust the bars. Thanks.
I’m not sure, could be an issue with the measuring device giving different dimensions
If you are only buying 1 would you buy the 1010 or the 1400 to use with LR32 system?
1400
Thank you so much for explaining that 37 mm.
You’re welcome
Love the video but when you use those guides for the rear, you suppose to register the pin in the groove abs you will get the right spot.
Hi Jason. Is there an easy way to create 16mm spacing?
Yes. You would just use 16 up and away. Then flip both to 32 up and away. That will put you right in the middle of the first set.
Thanks! One question: how do you get the track to align so that the bottom hole lines up 37mm from the bottom of the cabinet, especially with varying top and bottom piece thicknesses?
Why do you need holes 37mm from the bottom? That’s not me being nasty, I am just curious.
@@bentswoodworking The "standard" minimum clearance from the bottom of the cabinet for a Blum under-mount hole install is 37mm. Since the 5mm every 32mm holes are cut before assembly, how do you (or can you?) use the Festool rail to get 37mm plus the width of the bottom piece (18 or 12mm) - so 55 or 49 mm? I'd like to punch out a bunch of cabinets with a bottom drawer using the Blum Tandem Blumotion runners. I know how to make a custom jig (I have a Shaper Origin), but I like the durability of the metal rail vs warping ply or soggy dog-eared MDF. That is my question.
Jason, did you apply a protective finish to your MFT/3 table tops? Yours look darker and slightly glossy. Mine look more like flat virgin MDF (other than the saw kerfs and some glue stains). If so, what did you use and are you pleased with the results?
I typically will just spray them with left over finish from other projects periodically. It’s mostly just polyurethane and it’s great.
Brent, where did you get your ratcheting crescent wrench? Mine no longer adjusts to metric sizes.
Super helpful! Thank you!
You’re welcome
Ok figured it out. 37mm was the important measurement, drilling the uppermost hinge screw locations, followed by an offset from the rear and halving the distance from the inside hinge screws! Thanks. It’s easier but I don’t own a Festool router. Haha 😂
👍
To parrot other comments, great video. I've been using the Rockler Pro shelf pin jig. Works great, but I get tear out on the edge of the holes.....yes, I bought a new drill bit. Then I usually have to go back with a drill bit and clean out the debris from the holes. Not terribly time consuming, but a pain in the butt. With the tear out, the holes look sloppy if you look real close. Don't ever look at my work real close.😀 I assume the LR 32 holes act as a zero clearance? Or do you have a similar problem. I'm thinking about "investing" in this system.
The LR32 is cutting those holes with a router bit so the cut is perfect!
Thanks for the reply. I do like perfect, but like I always say, I'm a perfectionist without the ability to be one!😀
Jason, what is the measurement from the edge of the rail to the end of the jig that you line up. This has to end up at the center line of the router bit...
Not sure off hand but the way I figured it out was putting the router and plate on the rail, depressed it to make a mark, then measure to the mark.
Question about your son's cabinet shown at the 25min mark(would like to see more of that vid). How do align the bottom drawer slide using the LR32 system. I have looked over the blum catalog and the Tandem diagram shows the screw holes located at 25mm(lower) 37mm (upper) from the bottom of the side. If I set the LR32 using the 16mm offset the bottom drawer will not sit a the bottom of the cabinet and alight with the 32mm holes. Im sure I overlooked something but I cannot figure it out. Thanks for any help
hey bent do you know if festool makes bits for being able to uses leaves for pins
Very helpful!
Glad to hear that
Good explanation, thanks.
Jason, this is a great instructional video. I've priced out the system components and they cost as much together as a line boring machine (like the tooltech) which can drill 13 holes at once. Have you considered a line boring machine?
I don’t do it enough to have a need for a line boring machine.
Would be cool though!!
When Malone a wall to ceiling cupboard how would you use the 1600 rails
Great summary, Thanks!
You’re welcome
can a track saw be put on this rail or is it only for router?
How are you supporting the panel off the side of your bench?
Jason did say early in the video that he was using the Festool VAC-SYS vacuum clamping system. He's got that mounted off the side of his bench and the workpiece is held in place with a vacuum. Very handy and very expensive (even for Festool).
It’s the Festool Vac Sys
Do you have a drawing with dimensions for the jig?
I do not, yet
Great video!! I am trying to also use the Blum hardware and obtain a catalogue like the one you displayed. I tried to inquire online with no luck. What worked for you?
I just emailed them from the contact on their website
go to publications.blum.com/2020/catalogue/en/19/
BTW: What is the brand and model of your ratcheting Crescent wrench?
Crescent don't make a ratcheting shifting spanner but they do make a left handed screwdriver.
Could you please le me know which Blum Product you are using?
They are model number 563H
@@bentswoodworking Thank you!!!
Can that rail work with the track saw
Yes
Thanks ….good info!
You’re welcome
Cool video!! I am to to sure about my eyeballing abilities
👍
I’m watching this and I’m like… that’s where I’m at in my life as well. 2 new little ones. Need built ins
good one!
Thanks!
Have you ever done a start to finish video of planning/design and execution and build of euro style frameless cabinets. If instead of naming your live episodes by number, but also by content it would be easier to search for the educational content.
I have not but will be. I am planning a whole series on a frameless cabinet and a face frame cabinet
@@bentswoodworking Awesome I look forward to it, personally I think the adjustable feet make a lot of sense for the cabinet kick space with the snap-on front kickboard, sure makes leveling a breeze and no shims!
Hi Jason, do you have to use 5mm euroscrews or can you use 6mm?
Thanks
Andy
Not sure if the 6 would work
How do you do the pin holes if panel is NOT even?
Another great video Jason! Am I correct to assume that the sample side panel method you used may not work with drawer slides, since the distance between your front and back rows may not align with the drawer slide hole spacing?
It is totally based off the size of the slides. The 37mm spacing on the front would work on just about any slide. You would just have to know the measurements for the other holes
You sir are an amazing teacher. All your videos explain everything.
I'm a cabinet refinisher and trim carpenter, I recently started building kitchen cabinets and I love it.
I have only built 3 kitchens so far and I'm on my first frameless kitchen.
I have been watching your videos for a while now and I've learned soooo much.
I just bought the LR32 system and I'm so thankful for this video.
My question is you mentioned that you don't edgband the top and bottom of the uppers. What do you put underneath the uppers?
Am i missing something?
The kitchen I'm building is going in stained oak.
Thank you so much.
Really impressive video!! Thorough and very informative! Thanks!
Have you ever tried using the LR32 rail and guide plate to make an MFT table (3x32mm=96mm hole spacing!)
Peter Millard used the LR 32 system for an MFT build
brilliant, just wow
Great Video , thx ;-)
You’re welcome
Great video! I’m gonna go ahead and take a drink every time he says “go ahead”...
Have you ever used the LR32 to build a mft top?
I have not
You rock!
Excellent 😊 I chose both lol
Great as always! Just one comment,you don't need to reset parallel guides, you just need to make the groove first, that's how the pin on the guide sits in it, so you always use 37 mm without changing.
That’s how I typically make them.