@@MWAWoodworksthe big issue I have had trying to sell 3d printed pockets is shipping. Eg. $1 for plastic. $4 for my time, the printer and a bit of profit = $5. Shipping $15. People would pay $5 for what I wanted to sell but not the $20 after I factored in the shipping. If you can figure out the shipping issue I would love to know it
@@Navy1977 I live in Canada so different shipping costs. If I was to ship a lot then the prices come down dramatically. I shipped one piece that I built to a friend and it was $20.
Love the C channel brackets turned into H channel. Next up make the H into a T to make an all in one that spaces and holds the edges in line too! Thanks for the project and video!
Really loving the integration of 3D printing into woodworking shops~! I have a Prusa MK3S+, which I like, but am really impressed by the Bambu Lab machines. Seems like a step up in simplicity, especially for multi-filament printing. My Prusa may be finding it's way onto Marketplace soon. Would be great to see you including 3D print content wherever applicable in your projects. Thanks for sharing this~!
This was a very cool build, detailed enough for a viewer to follow, and it also gave me plenty ideas. All I need now is a 3D printer, which is going to be my very next big expense. Thank you!
I had the same problem with the 32 mm hole for the hinge that had to be redrilled and left the old hole. Why is my bamboo Labs X1 Carbon to make fillers that fit in the holes that were left behind, and it looks pretty good. You have to fiddle around with the width of it a little bit to get a good fit. But it's easy if you use the X and Y scaling settings in the slicer
This video was so full of great ideas I don't know where to start. But I seriously need those drawer spacing and alignment jigs. I just bought the Bambu A1 to print those - you really sold me on 3D printing. Post files soon!
I love the pocket hole jig - I don’t often pay much attention to jigs but the shape, handles, and bench dog holes take the ergonomics to another level! While I don’t use a ton of pocket holes, the same approach seems useful for other jigs too! Thanks for the perspective shift, now brb to see if that has its own build video 🎉
22:13 could print a little cover for that extra hole. Just got my Bambu A1 and loving it. Just need to build a new unit for it now to keep the sawdust off of it. Those spacers will be recreated to help.
I love seeing 3D printers do more than printing choochkies and toys. I use MUCH cheaper filament, so your prices blow my mind (I also use open source super inexpensive printers) .. Love this use of printing useful stuff ..
I am a recent track-saw convert. The TSO square is excellent. Why not use the TSO square to cut your wider parts to length rather than flipping them over on the miter saw and cutting them twice? Great video.
Hey! While I’ve only been watching your channel about a month I have to say wow! At first it took me a bit to get acquainted with your voice and content. Nothing wrong with it just was me as I have been taking classes all my life and I’ve had various instructors and teachers and their style are all different. I find your videos and style very informative and entertaining. In this video I learned a great deal. While I’m not completely set on 3D printing yet I am closer to wanting one as you demonstrated any reasons to have one. Especially in jigs and such. Not totally set with CNC but an easy setup on a 3D printer might help me ease into this process. I enjoyed the videos and tutorials and plan to watch more. Anyone considering this channel should subscribe and watch these videos as I endorse this channel as a great resource and reference to projects in this field. I approve this message.😂
I see people use spacers for drawer slides a lot, but everyone has multiple sizes or cuts down after each use. I had 2 thoughts - 1) maybe the width of the tall spacer is the height of the next slide? or 2) a way to hold stacked pieces together, like a small hinge might allow to reuse common size spacers without always cutting down more scraps?
Great idea! If I built cabinets the exact same way every time (same dimensions and drawer sizes) I would create a more repeatable jig that I didn't have to throw away when done. Great thought!
Nice build, I'm sure it will get lots of use. I've printed a lot of things to use in the shop, but hadn't thought about an H spacer. I'll have to get to work on that. - Chris
2 questions: 1) - Is your plywood already coated (I saw it's called pre-finished), so then where do you find it (in general vs. your specific local place)? 2) - How on earth do you screw the pocket holes together (at the side piece with the toe kick) without a clamp (I see clamps were used in the middle) and not have the wood shift on you? Even with a clamp sometimes or I think it won't, they wood slides a bit and I don't get a clean edge fit.
Pre finished plywood is sold at plywood warehouses or some hardwood lumber dealers. I used a spacer as a "backer" in order to screw into the toe kick so I have something to push against.
@@MWAWoodworks that first shot of the pocket hole, aside from spacer, didn't seem like much pressure was applied at all. Wondering if you started off on slow and then speed the rpm's up when doing it?
Regarding the hinge plates: You show your jig, and show drilling the pilot holes, but how do you determine the dimensions? You have a line there to line up your jig, but how did you determine the placement of the lines? Or the depth of the holes on your jig? For my latest cabinet (I hate cabinets, by the way) I made several mock-ups with scrap material before I figured this out, but this is not something I could replicate easily on the next project without starting over. I'm trusting that there won't be a next project that used euro hinges.
there are standards for the hinge plates depending on whether its an inset hinge or overlay hinge. I think 27mm for overlay and maybe 56 for inset (don't quote me on that). As far as where to draw the reference line that's completely up to your application.
The drawer front jig is cool. I'm thinking you could make it T shaped so as to provide the function of spacing between the drawer fronts and aligning the sides at the same time.
Are you using a plywood that's pre-finished on one side? If so, what do you do for the vertical dividers in the center of the cabinet since only one side is finished?
@@MWAWoodworks They’re an amazing companion. I got into them years ago to fix general issues (not woodworking). I wish it was this easy back then! Will be building some upper cabinets soon and your vids will be really helpful. Can the top nailer be a French cleat?
You can do French cleats but you need to do it on top and bottom. Otherwise you put all the weight of the cabinet on the top cleat which won't be good.
All very cool. The only thing to knock you on is the pocket screws visible on the kick plate. That would drive me nuts, but otherwise, a fantastic, all encompassing video. I have been looking at those Bambu Labs machines too. They are so versatile.
what about just mirroring the drawer front bracket so the top & bottom are the same and it clicks/holds the under drawer and new drawer front at the same time ? :)
Great video as always. I need a cabinet like this for my Bambu A1 Printer I love mine just need to get a lap top and start learning how to make my own 3D models but even with out just from my iPad and phone if printed so many cool and helpful things. Are you going to share the cabinet spacers you created and the other 3-D jig you made?
Are you adding a kicker board to the bottom of the cabinet? Otherwise the exposed pocket holes seem to be a mistake. Looks great otherwise, and the Bambuu A1 is a great little printer.
I know how to make cabinets. Literally made thousands, so I fast forwarded. That 3D printed jig was worth the video. I salute you, sir. That’s a clever little thingy.
Great tutorial. While a CNC is cheat woodworking, IMHO, a 3D printer is not. Seems well worth the $$ if used often enough. Thx for putting this vid. together.
Too funny I have a Bamboo A1 3D printer sitting in my basement that is a gift for XMas and guess what is on my first list to make? My idea is slightly different but does the same thing and will be able help me with a cedar shingle install planned in spring. Hmm I need to look at this SW primer does anyone have experience if this being shellac based keeps bleed through from happening?
Great video! Great build. I love it. How are you enjoying the Graco Quick Shot? I LOVE IT! I have the Bambu P1S. It’s great. There really is sooooo much you can do with it. I’ve thought about spacers… but did not ever think of them the way you did. I am definitely going to want to make some of those spacers. I also really like the hinge locator.
great project and video! Couple of questions -- there was one step you didn't show that always gives me trouble -- it's sealing the sides of the MDF for painting. I've been using Kem Aqua primer and color for years but MDF edges seem to always require a truckload of shellac to seal before they will fully take the primer and color. What did you do here? Secondly, I like the idea of using pre-finished ply to avoid grain raising which is a big hassle for water-based primer like the Kem Aqua, but you actually used alcohol based primer (the shellac) instead -- I thought only water would raise the grain and alcohol-based shellac wouldn't, so I was confused about why you used PF ply in this case when you were planning to use shellac primer. Lastly, I. wasn't aware of the Gallery Series from SW. do you know if there is a Gallery Series primer? thanks, all the best
Hi there, The Shellac primer you used from Sherwin Williams is that good for all Woods and MDF? I used Kem Auqa sealer primer before they canceled it, I'm looking for a thin product like that ...your thoughts, please . Great videos!!!
Love the spacers and the video. First time I've watched one of your vids and now I'm looking into buying the printer ....... what have you done !!!!! Joking aside, great content and look forward to watching more of your vids soon. Regards the spacers there a fantastic idea that I would gladly purchase. Are you close to uploading the files for printing as that's one of the first projects, and I would be more than happy to purchase the files. Anyway thanks again for your hard work. All the best Grant from the UK
Nice video thanks! I'm making some Ash frames today and am curious if you've had good success with pocket holes. Are there any problems associated with screwing into such a hard wood without pre drilling?
I make face frames out of hard maple all the time with no issues. Just make sure to use the 'fine' threaded pocket screws and dip them in paste wax before driving them in and you should be good 👍
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Those H spacers I would re-print with ends on one side so you can ensure the drawer faces line up.
I think you should sell those spacers to those of us that are woodworking for a hobby and not likely to own a 3D printer.
This is just the kind of feedback I'm looking for! There's definitely a possibility!
I'd also be interested in the spacers!
@@MWAWoodworksthe big issue I have had trying to sell 3d printed pockets is shipping.
Eg. $1 for plastic. $4 for my time, the printer and a bit of profit = $5.
Shipping $15.
People would pay $5 for what I wanted to sell but not the $20 after I factored in the shipping.
If you can figure out the shipping issue I would love to know it
@@kurttosczak8544 USPS flat rate ground for 8 oz is $4.51 for commercial shipping.
@@Navy1977 I live in Canada so different shipping costs. If I was to ship a lot then the prices come down dramatically. I shipped one piece that I built to a friend and it was $20.
Love the way you show a way with the correct tool/jig, and an alternative way also....
What a game changer those 3D printed tools are! Impressive! 🤩
I agree!
Love the C channel brackets turned into H channel. Next up make the H into a T to make an all in one that spaces and holds the edges in line too! Thanks for the project and video!
Came here to say exactly this!
Yep there have been so many great helpful comments! I'm "finalizing" a design right now!
Welcome to the 3D printing world. It's a fabulous rabbit hole! :) My Bambu is MUCH better than all the other printers I've owned.
Really loving the integration of 3D printing into woodworking shops~! I have a Prusa MK3S+, which I like, but am really impressed by the Bambu Lab machines. Seems like a step up in simplicity, especially for multi-filament printing. My Prusa may be finding it's way onto Marketplace soon.
Would be great to see you including 3D print content wherever applicable in your projects. Thanks for sharing this~!
23:04 Put the pocket screws on the wrong side of the toe kick........damn it! Those clips are genius. Well done.
Haha I love the clips!
This was a very cool build, detailed enough for a viewer to follow, and it also gave me plenty ideas. All I need now is a 3D printer, which is going to be my very next big expense. Thank you!
I had the same problem with the 32 mm hole for the hinge that had to be redrilled and left the old hole. Why is my bamboo Labs X1 Carbon to make fillers that fit in the holes that were left behind, and it looks pretty good. You have to fiddle around with the width of it a little bit to get a good fit. But it's easy if you use the X and Y scaling settings in the slicer
thumbs up for wearing safety glasses when cutting with the track saw!!
Very nice cupboard!
Haha thanks! H8t or miss whether I actually remember 😂😂😂
Spacers are a genius idea! Well done.
This video was so full of great ideas I don't know where to start. But I seriously need those drawer spacing and alignment jigs. I just bought the Bambu A1 to print those - you really sold me on 3D printing. Post files soon!
I am not a Sherwin Williams fan but that Kem Aqua is awesome. Sprayed all the doors in my house with it. Durable as hell.
You should try the Gallery Series stuff it's great and dries hard too. Unfortunately Kem Aqua is on its way out according to my source.
I love the pocket hole jig - I don’t often pay much attention to jigs but the shape, handles, and bench dog holes take the ergonomics to another level!
While I don’t use a ton of pocket holes, the same approach seems useful for other jigs too! Thanks for the perspective shift, now brb to see if that has its own build video 🎉
check out my latest video. There's a reason I put dog holes in all my jigs now 😉
You could add a wall to one side of the "H" version to also align the side to side and spacing in a single piece
exactly what I was thinking! 😎👍
Love combining 3D printing with woodworking. It’s time for me to upgrade to a Bambu!
I love my Bambu printer 10x more than my old Prusa.
22:13 could print a little cover for that extra hole. Just got my Bambu A1 and loving it. Just need to build a new unit for it now to keep the sawdust off of it. Those spacers will be recreated to help.
Ya I could totally print a white "fake" hinge cover. Great idea!
I love seeing 3D printers do more than printing choochkies and toys. I use MUCH cheaper filament, so your prices blow my mind (I also use open source super inexpensive printers) .. Love this use of printing useful stuff ..
I love using the castle pocket screws!
I love my Castle pocket cutting machine!
I am a recent track-saw convert. The TSO square is excellent. Why not use the TSO square to cut your wider parts to length rather than flipping them over on the miter saw and cutting them twice?
Great video.
No reason really I just like showing multiple ways to do things cause some people get butt hurt when you show a Festool 🤦
Nice, but what about the visible pocket screws in the toe kick?
I covered this in the video 😁
Hey! While I’ve only been watching your channel about a month I have to say wow! At first it took me a bit to get acquainted with your voice and content. Nothing wrong with it just was me as I have been taking classes all my life and I’ve had various instructors and teachers and their style are all different. I find your videos and style very informative and entertaining. In this video I learned a great deal. While I’m not completely set on 3D printing yet I am closer to wanting one as you demonstrated any reasons to have one. Especially in jigs and such. Not totally set with CNC but an easy setup on a 3D printer might help me ease into this process.
I enjoyed the videos and tutorials and plan to watch more. Anyone considering this channel should subscribe and watch these videos as I endorse this channel as a great resource and reference to projects in this field.
I approve this message.😂
I see people use spacers for drawer slides a lot, but everyone has multiple sizes or cuts down after each use. I had 2 thoughts - 1) maybe the width of the tall spacer is the height of the next slide? or 2) a way to hold stacked pieces together, like a small hinge might allow to reuse common size spacers without always cutting down more scraps?
Great idea! If I built cabinets the exact same way every time (same dimensions and drawer sizes) I would create a more repeatable jig that I didn't have to throw away when done. Great thought!
Nice build, I'm sure it will get lots of use. I've printed a lot of things to use in the shop, but hadn't thought about an H spacer. I'll have to get to work on that. - Chris
They are a great help!
i needed that spacer thingy 2 years ago
Those spacers are genius! Beautiful result!
2 questions:
1) - Is your plywood already coated (I saw it's called pre-finished), so then where do you find it (in general vs. your specific local place)?
2) - How on earth do you screw the pocket holes together (at the side piece with the toe kick) without a clamp (I see clamps were used in the middle) and not have the wood shift on you? Even with a clamp sometimes or I think it won't, they wood slides a bit and I don't get a clean edge fit.
Pre finished plywood is sold at plywood warehouses or some hardwood lumber dealers. I used a spacer as a "backer" in order to screw into the toe kick so I have something to push against.
@@MWAWoodworks that first shot of the pocket hole, aside from spacer, didn't seem like much pressure was applied at all. Wondering if you started off on slow and then speed the rpm's up when doing it?
Ya I always go in short bursts when doing pocket holes. It can be easy to strip them out with a driver if you don't.
@@MWAWoodworks ok, and lastly, for the pocket screws themselves, how long are the ones your using?
1.25"
Outstanding love the spacers
Thanks!
Regarding the hinge plates: You show your jig, and show drilling the pilot holes, but how do you determine the dimensions? You have a line there to line up your jig, but how did you determine the placement of the lines? Or the depth of the holes on your jig? For my latest cabinet (I hate cabinets, by the way) I made several mock-ups with scrap material before I figured this out, but this is not something I could replicate easily on the next project without starting over. I'm trusting that there won't be a next project that used euro hinges.
there are standards for the hinge plates depending on whether its an inset hinge or overlay hinge. I think 27mm for overlay and maybe 56 for inset (don't quote me on that). As far as where to draw the reference line that's completely up to your application.
Question: since you added plywood to the back, could you use thicker poly and forego the nailer?
Thicker poly?? You mean a thicker plywood back panel?
Kudos on this video. The main takeaways are golden.
Awesome it just gets better the more I watch lol 😂👍
Glad you like it!
Never been here this early before… so am I supposed to say “first”?
Yep!
🏅 😂
🥈😂
The drawer front jig is cool. I'm thinking you could make it T shaped so as to provide the function of spacing between the drawer fronts and aligning the sides at the same time.
Nice job, and those spacers and jigs you made are great.
Ya so helpful! 3D printing is such an awesome technology!
H-Shaped with one end closed will give you a positive stops at the ends to align in X,Y, Z planes.
Go Vols! Way to represent! I didn't even know you were a Vol fan. Somehow I've accidentally followed 3 different Vol woodworkers.
Haha yep went to school there!
Are you using a plywood that's pre-finished on one side? If so, what do you do for the vertical dividers in the center of the cabinet since only one side is finished?
Pre finished on BOTH sides, except for the 1/4 ply which is only finished on the show face.
Bambulabs are going HARD at woodworkers ATM. Everyone is advertising them.
It's the perfect niche for them. So many great applications for this technology!
@@MWAWoodworks They’re an amazing companion. I got into them years ago to fix general issues (not woodworking). I wish it was this easy back then! Will be building some upper cabinets soon and your vids will be really helpful. Can the top nailer be a French cleat?
You can do French cleats but you need to do it on top and bottom. Otherwise you put all the weight of the cabinet on the top cleat which won't be good.
Are all these jigs that you 3D printed available in the various websites that offer designs that can be loaded into the printer?
May be make one side of the H a wall so the lateral adjustment is covered too.
All very cool. The only thing to knock you on is the pocket screws visible on the kick plate. That would drive me nuts, but otherwise, a fantastic, all encompassing video. I have been looking at those Bambu Labs machines too. They are so versatile.
Thanks! Ah the pocket holes won't be visible when you install the base trim!
what about just mirroring the drawer front bracket so the top & bottom are the same and it clicks/holds the under drawer and new drawer front at the same time ? :)
You had me at the Power T- GO VOLS!!
He’s back!
It's like a Bigfoot sighting 😂😂😂😂
Love build. Buying an A1 printer too because of this vid. But my only critique is the exposed pocket holes on the toe kick is killing me.
They won't be exposed! You put base trim around the cabinet when you install them.
This is a great video! Would love the 3D plans for the drawer spacing prints when you finish them! (please) :)
Good idea on the spacers.
Those 'H' brackets look incredibly useful! Is the file shared somewhere so I can print some of my own?
Great idea with the H brackets
Great build. I really like that 1/8 th reveal
ya its TIGHT
Great Video!! I need to get me a Bambu Lab A!!
So totally worth it. It's crazy to me how cheap these things have become and how easy they are to use!
Can't find a video you put out or might have missed it....where did you buy or plans to make your pocket hole setup?
I just was talking to a cabinet maker and you are correct he said he hates you.
😂😂😂😂 I knew it!
That gallery series is all i'll use now
I've been super impressed with it
@@MWAWoodworks And it being water based means i dont need the fire suppression for my spray booth
Can we get the plans for that spacer?
Would you mind sharing your stl file for the drawer spacers you made?
Hi. This bamboo lab printer is a neat thing. I guess you should make a footage just to show what it exactly does. Probably bamboo lab for dummies. Lol
H brackets to T-H brakets. Take the horzonal and the vertical drawer 3d printer holders and join them together.
Nice build! Now to add more Legos to that table and wall!
Where do you get your MDF and Plywood stock from? Is it a local company or online source? Happy for you on getting our 3d printer!
Great video as always. I need a cabinet like this for my Bambu A1 Printer I love mine just need to get a lap top and start learning how to make my own 3D models but even with out just from my iPad and phone if printed so many cool and helpful things. Are you going to share the cabinet spacers you created and the other 3-D jig you made?
Are you adding a kicker board to the bottom of the cabinet? Otherwise the exposed pocket holes seem to be a mistake. Looks great otherwise, and the Bambuu A1 is a great little printer.
Yep!
I know how to make cabinets. Literally made thousands, so I fast forwarded. That 3D printed jig was worth the video. I salute you, sir. That’s a clever little thingy.
Great tutorial. While a CNC is cheat woodworking, IMHO, a 3D printer is not. Seems well worth the $$ if used often enough. Thx for putting this vid. together.
Sorry if missed this, but is there a link to the h brackets for installing the drawer fronts?
Not yet
Ahh the maniacal laugh when something so simple works to perfection making your job/life easier. Lol I love it! Great video
I love it when something I didn't even plan for works better than I hoped 😂 kind of makes me feel dumb for not thinking of it first 😭
Nice setup.
Any chance you could attach a link for the .stl files for the 3D jig and drawer spacers you used in this video? Thanks in advance!!
Well done!
What kind of long driver bits were you using on the pocket screws?
Too funny I have a Bamboo A1 3D printer sitting in my basement that is a gift for XMas and guess what is on my first list to make? My idea is slightly different but does the same thing and will be able help me with a cedar shingle install planned in spring.
Hmm I need to look at this SW primer does anyone have experience if this being shellac based keeps bleed through from happening?
"Just more walnutty" 😂
My new favorite adjective 😂😂😂
Magnificent! 😀
MWA Woodworks is super, i build your Pocked Hole Jig, very nice. Greetings from Vienna. Reini
Nice!
Great video! Great build. I love it.
How are you enjoying the Graco Quick Shot? I LOVE IT!
I have the Bambu P1S. It’s great. There really is sooooo much you can do with it. I’ve thought about spacers… but did not ever think of them the way you did. I am definitely going to want to make some of those spacers. I also really like the hinge locator.
The quick shot is really nice
Did you put the spacer on Bambu studio by chance ?
I did not! I'm working on an updated version
Wait a second my local hardware store does NOT sell nice and shiny sheet goods like that. Where did you get that plywood?
7:54 nvm you painted it lol
The pre finished plywood comes from my local plywood dealer. It's great for painting it or leaving natural!
Lumberyard…
Put a "cap" on the H and it aligns the sides, too
great project and video! Couple of questions -- there was one step you didn't show that always gives me trouble -- it's sealing the sides of the MDF for painting. I've been using Kem Aqua primer and color for years but MDF edges seem to always require a truckload of shellac to seal before they will fully take the primer and color. What did you do here? Secondly, I like the idea of using pre-finished ply to avoid grain raising which is a big hassle for water-based primer like the Kem Aqua, but you actually used alcohol based primer (the shellac) instead -- I thought only water would raise the grain and alcohol-based shellac wouldn't, so I was confused about why you used PF ply in this case when you were planning to use shellac primer. Lastly, I. wasn't aware of the Gallery Series from SW. do you know if there is a Gallery Series primer? thanks, all the best
Hi there,
The Shellac primer you used from Sherwin Williams is that good for all Woods and MDF? I used Kem Auqa sealer primer before they canceled it, I'm looking for a thin product like that ...your thoughts, please . Great videos!!!
yeah you can put it on raw wood, plywood or MDF
What about those pocket holes that are visible at the bottom of the cabinet?
They get covered with base trim!
Great video. I too just got a Bambu to help my woodworking. Where did you find the Blum drawer jig?
Rockler sells them.
If you take those "H" clips and close off one end, it will hold both drawer face AND center them together.
Love the spacers and the video. First time I've watched one of your vids and now I'm looking into buying the printer ....... what have you done !!!!! Joking aside, great content and look forward to watching more of your vids soon. Regards the spacers there a fantastic idea that I would gladly purchase. Are you close to uploading the files for printing as that's one of the first projects, and I would be more than happy to purchase the files. Anyway thanks again for your hard work. All the best Grant from the UK
Sorry... meant to ask , is it a thinner product like the kem Auqa surfaces?
Yes very thin
What grit are you scuff sanding with before primer on the prefinished ply?
Something like 220 or 320 is good. Honestly I'm not 💯 that it's even needed. I'm running some tests
9:26 " I usually buy rough lumber" What about moisture and bugs?
Rough lumber just means lumber that has not been surfaced yet. It's still been kiln dried, just not planed.
And next, start looking into infinity grid for your 3d printing storage :)
What software (cad) do you use to design jigs before you send to Bambu slicer? Great video!
I really like Fusion360!
3:15 completely destroys kreg jig with his massive apparatus. 😅
Nice video thanks! I'm making some Ash frames today and am curious if you've had good success with pocket holes. Are there any problems associated with screwing into such a hard wood without pre drilling?
I make face frames out of hard maple all the time with no issues. Just make sure to use the 'fine' threaded pocket screws and dip them in paste wax before driving them in and you should be good 👍
@@MWAWoodworks Thank you!
Can I get the files for your jigs please
I just put the link in the description! Everything except the drawer spacer brackets.
Now all you need to do is print of a blanking plate in white PLA to cover up that unused hinge cutout.
Exactly!
Now just make some 3D hinge hole blanking plugs.👍
😂😂😂😂 ya that's great!
Lots of products linked. Did I miss the cut list?
No plans for this project yet. 2025 is coming!
What software you use?
Fusion360
Share the STL file on your web page
I'm working on finalizing a "finished" product. Will be available soon!
Are you willing to share your 3D printer files?
Soon in a future video I'll have a "finished" product!