How are the sub frame connectors working out now that you've used them for a while? Maybe give us an update and a look, see at them in another video? Thank you.
What camera setup do you use and recommend? Im doing an LS swap and I'm documenting everything so i know how to put these back together and can see how I did it. Your videos are a real inspiration. Thank you
I use a Canon Mirrorless SLR Camera EOS M with a 22mm pancake lense. about $400 used and you get a decent camera setup. GoPros work as well, but won't have the image quality a real camera has. A used Samsung NX mini camera is also a ok choice for around $250
How long did your brakes and calipers last before the over haul? Is this because your car is a dedicated race car? I thought bout doing something like this as opposed to cast iron calipers. Good info
I had a lot of pad knockback so a few caliper pistons got a bit mangled. if I had to guess, a BAER or Wilwood caliper driving around tow would last easily 10yrs.
I know you switched to manual brakes. Was the bore of the master matched to piston size for both the front and back calipers? I wonder if that could be part of the problem.
I talked to the HAWK brake pad tech guy, and he said my HP+ pads are not manual brake friendly, so that's probably part of the issue. won't know till I start racing again
Have you had any luck with the springs or the RPV? I have the same calipers on the rear of my Monte and the knockback made the car undriveable even on the street until I lengthened that slug in the TrueTrac. It's still awful during an autocross.
turns out probably 1/2 the the pad knock-back was caused by my FRONT bearings and hubs. a DRP bearing spacer helped a ton + a 4psi valve + piston springs. I also added 4 of the bigger wilwood anti-knockback springs to the SS4 calipers. added a 2psi anti-drainback valve for the rear. then installed ticker c-clips from TCE performance. & had a thicker true-trak slug machined from titanium. that keeps any rear knockback at bay. it does slightly drag the brakes though, but a mild drawback to deal with. (more brake dust and noise at slower speeds)
@@3rdGenGuyI just saw you responded. I did put some stop tech springs in mine and it helped a lot, but now I have a leak at the piston and the seals are backordered. The 10-psi RPV's didn't do anything. I also welded up my slug for the trutrac and that did help. My calipers rubbed the rotor just like yours. The parking brake is also underwhelming. I'm pretty disappointed with this whole setup for what it cost.
Not related to this video, but when you did your LS swap, it looks like you stayed with the stock k member and A arms. Is that what you recommend for an LS1 swap? No clearance issues?
How are the sub frame connectors working out now that you've used them for a while? Maybe give us an update and a look, see at them in another video? Thank you.
I like the DSE SFC.
they are just a pain to install, but worth it in the end.
What camera setup do you use and recommend? Im doing an LS swap and I'm documenting everything so i know how to put these back together and can see how I did it. Your videos are a real inspiration. Thank you
I use a Canon Mirrorless SLR Camera EOS M with a 22mm pancake lense.
about $400 used and you get a decent camera setup.
GoPros work as well, but won't have the image quality a real camera has.
A used Samsung NX mini camera is also a ok choice for around $250
@3rdGenGuy Thanks man, you're the best.
@@3rdGenGuy What tri pod setups do you recommend? And how did you stop your camera from getting paint on it when you did the paint video?
I use a el cheapo tripod.
A small one and a larger tall tripod.
as long as it doesn't wobble, it'll use it ha ha.
How long did your brakes and calipers last before the over haul? Is this because your car is a dedicated race car? I thought bout doing something like this as opposed to cast iron calipers. Good info
I had a lot of pad knockback so a few caliper pistons got a bit mangled.
if I had to guess, a BAER or Wilwood caliper driving around tow would last easily 10yrs.
I know you switched to manual brakes. Was the bore of the master matched to piston size for both the front and back calipers? I wonder if that could be part of the problem.
I talked to the HAWK brake pad tech guy, and he said my HP+ pads are not manual brake friendly, so that's probably part of the issue.
won't know till I start racing again
Have you had any luck with the springs or the RPV? I have the same calipers on the rear of my Monte and the knockback made the car undriveable even on the street until I lengthened that slug in the TrueTrac. It's still awful during an autocross.
turns out probably 1/2 the the pad knock-back was caused by my FRONT bearings and hubs.
a DRP bearing spacer helped a ton + a 4psi valve + piston springs.
I also added 4 of the bigger wilwood anti-knockback springs to the SS4 calipers.
added a 2psi anti-drainback valve for the rear.
then installed ticker c-clips from TCE performance.
& had a thicker true-trak slug machined from titanium.
that keeps any rear knockback at bay.
it does slightly drag the brakes though, but a mild drawback to deal with.
(more brake dust and noise at slower speeds)
@@3rdGenGuyI just saw you responded. I did put some stop tech springs in mine and it helped a lot, but now I have a leak at the piston and the seals are backordered. The 10-psi RPV's didn't do anything. I also welded up my slug for the trutrac and that did help. My calipers rubbed the rotor just like yours. The parking brake is also underwhelming. I'm pretty disappointed with this whole setup for what it cost.
Not related to this video, but when you did your LS swap, it looks like you stayed with the stock k member and A arms. Is that what you recommend for an LS1 swap? No clearance issues?
depends on the LS engine mounts and oil pan.
I used the 98-02 LS pan, and Holley LS mounts.
so a k-member notch was needed to fit.
I noticed that you used dot 4 fluid. I hope you didn’t mix it with dot 3. I better fix is Dot 5.1.
My racing brake fluid is all DOT 4.
Dot5.1 isn't suited for dem racing.