This will make wood chisels work SO MUCH better!
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- ▼ IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO: ▼
Longer video about drill press sharpening: • Why I use a drill and ...
Get the drill press sharpening kit: lddy.no/1i3mb
Longer video about the Tormek: • 15 COOL things you can...
Get a Tormek (Sponsored): amzn.to/35jvOeE
Longer video about sandpaper sharpening (and back flattening): • A game-changing NEW wa...
A great sandpaper sharpening starter kit: lddy.no/1ge9j
Get a leather strop and paste: lddy.no/1k2p1
Playlist of more sharpening tutorials: • Sharpening Tutorials
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▼ *IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT VIDEO:* ▼
- Longer video about drill press sharpening: ruclips.net/video/8gKzjAxiGoQ/видео.htmlsi=C24f81jmx7j_zDJY
- *Get the drill press sharpening kit:* lddy.no/1i3mb
- Longer video about the Tormek: ruclips.net/video/JgKkBpqXBv4/видео.htmlsi=9ALpUvc-ClQr5Rx6
- *Get a Tormek (Sponsored):* amzn.to/35jvOeE
- Longer video about sandpaper sharpening (and back flattening): ruclips.net/video/dN9GHpwGnug/видео.htmlsi=6cjXlBM2yto1y_LG
- *A great sandpaper sharpening starter kit:* lddy.no/1ge9j
- *Get a leather strop and paste:* lddy.no/1k2p1
- Playlist of more sharpening tutorials: ruclips.net/p/PL-gT7JMZFYjfSqRIGMlHzlBkvGBYh09At&si=WC-bNsNhCIFpNcvk
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
Tormek's complete sharpening systems: amzn.to/35jvOeE
*My hand tool collection includes premium tools from Bridge City Tool Works:* bridgecitytools.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*Some other useful links:*
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
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★SOME OF MY FAVORITE INEXPENSIVE TOOLS★
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-BOW Featherboards: amzn.to/430ldhv
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
-Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW
-Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7
-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
-Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI
-Narex Chisels: lddy.no/sqm3
-Mini Pull Saw: amzn.to/2UEHBz6
-Shinwa Rulers: lddy.no/zl13
(If you use one of the affiliate links above, we may receive a small commission)
When I was apprenticing in the late 60s/early 70s, the only 2 things I did for 4 months was sweep and sharpen all the journeymen's cutting edges. I got yelled at quite a lot in the first month (messed up the edge of someone's go-to tool for example). After 2 months, the yelling changed to requests, meaning I was getting the edges done right, but someone might want a 2nd bevel at a certain degree or whatever. They were asks, not demands.
After a little more than 4 months I was lent a plane and given a 4x4 rough sawn timber. I was told to square it all around to better than 89 degrees. Graduation day! Yippee! In all my life since, I've not only never complained about all that sharpening but I'm always grateful to the master for putting me through that. You can know all the trigonometry in the world and have precision measuring tools, but if you can't cut you're left with so-so results that don't stand up to scrutiny.
As an oboist that has been making oboe reeds for 49 years, I have had to learn a lot about getting sharp edges. I've done the self-adhesive sandpaper, oil stones, water stones, and grinder. I still haven't gotten up the nerve to drop 1K on a Tormek, but I know it's in my future. The one big advantage of the Tormek (and other circular grinders) is the concave or "hollow-ground" surface that it leaves. It's much easier to touch up an edge on a stone if it's hollow ground--no need to either grind away tons of material on the original bevel or hope for the correct angle on a micro-bevel. (My first oboe reed teacher insisted I buy a "flat bevel" knife. Oh how I wish he had suggested a double-hollow ground knife like the venerable Landwell.)
Hi obo
You can also consider using (or making) a whetstone convex. This won't match the grind exactly, but will keep the edge nice and thin.
@@DerekKraanHuh? That would turn your straight cutting edge into a rounded cutting edge, woulddn't it? I don't think he is talking about gouges here...😊
@@ErickvdK turn 90deg
A couple of years ago I bought a Jet brand water sharpener, which is basically the same as the Tormek for considerably less money. It works great. I may have bought it on sale, so keep an eye out for that. Several online tool sellers, as well as Home Depot, sell Jet Tools, and I think at least once a year they go on sale.
I use my chisel only every 3rd project or so. My handplane gets much more use so I sharpen it quite "often". Every few months or so. But sharpening by hand was really easy to learn and it adds variety to the work process.
Saw that bloody finger, apparently that chisel was sharper than expected :P
I laughed as it was shown right after he asked what is the pros or cons using that method.
Thanks James, a great summary / overview !
That was real good. I don't use wood tools much so drill press sharpener was something I had not seen before and could be just what I need, particularly with guide as I know I tend to 'round over' hand sharpening (even after years of trying not to)
If I had space and money, the Tormech wet would be the ultimate system for me, I mainly use HSS tooling on mini lathe (for metal) and have seen them in magazines for decades. The 'wood working version looks far more versatile than the metalworking one which is a bit 'specific'
I went to a company that make grave stones and got a chunky piece of polished granite. It has been with me ever since. It is even big enough to plane manifolds and mechanical parts.
Surprised you didn't talk about the Worksharp as an option. I have two of them, and they work great. Somewhere between the drill press discs and the Tormek.
Blood at 7:57 says it all. Excellent sharpening video.
Great job James. Thanks for sharing wit us. Fred.
I picked up the drill press kit when it was featured here a few months ago. I’ve loved it for my turning chisels. Took a few tries to learn how to ride my bevels correctly, but now it’s great for touchups.
I might work my way up to a Tormek eventually 😅
It took a lot of getting use too but once you dial it in the drill press is my go to now for sharpening. Love your channel it’s helped me so much in my woodworking
Have you used the drill press for back flattening? That's where I spend all my time and energy on new tools and it's frustrating
Try this: ruclips.net/video/dN9GHpwGnug/видео.htmlsi=6cjXlBM2yto1y_LG
After watching a lot of videos on sharpening I believe it was also covered on the site the use of CBN wheels.
It seems like a lower cost solution at the time, but ultimately it turned out to be just as expensive as using the TormeK
Doing lathe work requires a lot of different type of angle set ups.
He did not mention, but the glass should be a hardened glass, not easily broken.
How does changing the grit of the stone work?
Chef here, been watching your sharpening videos for a long time, and one thing I notice is that you always seem to use a lot of pressure while sharpening. At least with knives the trick is to use less pressure with each pass, so that the last swipes are feather light. But then I go thru the grits up to at least 10k, and finish with diamond paste on a strop, so maybe it’s just that the different disciplines have different tolerance for sharpness. But it’s a thought for those who want to shave with their chisels
It is imperative that the bevel lays flat on the surface. Keeping pressure on it ensures the bevel remains flat. The weight of the handle is constantly fighting this goal.
very brave of you to post a sharpening video. People love to debate this way too much. Working sharp is fine for me.
I used to like Worksharp (they are a good company), but I feel like they abandoned the woodworking market when they stopped offering their platform attachment, which made it easier to sharpen more than just chisels.
@@StumpyNubs I think he meant "working" sharp as in not razor sharp, but functionally sharp.
The opening segment isn't even done yet, and I'm prepared to loudly declare everything he did was wrong. Even the things that I will say he has to do instead, since I won't watch long enough to see him address the exact things I said 😉😂
@@StumpyNubs I like my Worksharp but they could have done so much more. Not only do they not offer the platform, but the machine itself can't handle the wider blades of the x-1/2 plane irons, so all that it 100% free hand. They could use Cubitron discs as well for much faster work and better value. They could even release CBN discs. But they seem happy to just rest on their laurels. Disappointing.
@@myfavoriteviewer306 well played sir!
Enjoyed this sharpening video, as you kept it simple and straightforward. Any opinion on using a secondary bevel? Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
That's essentially what I'm creating when I lift the handle to strop.
another good product in those discs,James Wright recently did a sharpening video where he got it sharper using the same grit by honing parallel to the edge not perpendicular using a much more expensive jig,a more complicated system than the one you showed.Parallel sharpening is sharper and easy with your system
Sharpening is a superpower.
Recently I learned of a local Rockler woodworking store location. I stepped inside and instantly was amazed. Then I turned a corner and behold...a Tormek. I thought to myself, "It's like I'm walking through a StumpyNubs video!" Safe to say that location is my new money dump.
I have become use to the hand sharpening Method. I suppose it’s a “feel thing”. I believe you attain muscle memory & feel to hold your angles. The flattening of your chisel is most important but after that you can just go to your stones for a quick freshening and be on your way back to work. Thanks for your video. As always, I’m forever learning!
My Work Sharp has worked well for many years. It wasn’t that expensive but the sandpaper discs are getting expensive.
I bought a knock off Tormack 10" wet stone sharpener ( King). After I tweaked a few things it is amazing to use. Fast to use amd sharpens amazingly.
Sometimes I'll take a quick strop with some cardboard. It works surprisingly well.
In Basic through my union we spent several days learning proper sharpening of chisels. We had to lap the back to a mirror on a flat plane, and then learned a couple ways to prep and then maintain our chisels. We then had several weeks of cutting dovetails and other joints entirely by hand to make sure we knew the value of keeping them sharp.
If you are using sandpaper, it must be glued and pressed hard into whatever surface you are using. If you can see the paper bulge around your blade when you press it down, it won't sharpen correctly.
OMG I cringed when you banged on that chisel with the hammer! 😂
You're my boy blue, one thing I got good at is sharpening. I can get a piece of metal razor sharp after getting into woodworking. One hobby returned a valuable skill
Buy cheap (3-4USD) diamond plates from AliExpress and glue them with UV glue to plate glass. It will last for years.
One suggestion for your sharpening jig....put a magnet on each side of the base. It will catch most of the metal shavings and dust which, if it gets in the air can be damaging to lungs. This is a simple, cheap solution that I use on all my sharpening equipment including my grinder. It is very effective.
8:35 this hurt so much to watch haha
Nice over view of your previous videos. Glad you have links to them in the description. Surprised you did not mention the intermediate sharpening device between the sandpaper and Drill press method, the M-Power SBS Diamond Sharpening System. Perhaps the M-Power system is really between the drill press method and the Tormeck. Either way, I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for sharing.
is not one of the cons of the Tormek the price?
Ladies and Gentlemen, children of all ages. I hope you appreciate this.
This is the lesson of a Master. Thank You once again SN and congrats on 900K.
After 20 plus years dabbling in woodworking and hours of video watching on sharpening I stink at sharpening. Oh and also I have spent a fortune on every sharpening system known since the cave men.
You have to pick one method and stick with it. You'll get better if you don't jump around.
We must be the same person🥸
Oh, no downsides to the Tormech? Not even the $915 price? You missed that one.
It's a high end industrial machine. It's not made for everyone.
@@TheDookistan Yeah but this channel is t industrial focused.
Good, lifetime tools cost money. There are plenty of cheaper options, including in this video.
Extremely valuable and interesting video! Thanks.
Thank you. Lots of great tips. Much appreciated 🐝
Thank you, James. Great information! 😃😃😃❤❤❤
Your explanation was cutting edge! Most YT channels are quite dull but you have a way of teaching that is razor sharp!
You're just trying to chisel your way into Stumpy's good graces.
Lol
Always a pleasure listening to your presentations James. I’ve seen all three separate videos in detail you previously posted and this video summarizes them nicely and reminds me why I bought the drill press wheel system (still waiting to build the jig), good job in merging them into one video.
I poped for the Tormek. Not cheap, but as versital as anything out there.
Versatile
And slow.
A sharper chisel is also a safer chisel. Sounds contrarian, but it's true.
BUT..the COSYT of the Tarmac is really beyond the income of most average wood workers. Sand Paper idea is more along those lines. Thanks for the cool video!
I always sharpen my chisels with a... BELT SANDER! (gasp!)
I really enjoy your videos. Congrats from Mexico.😁
I don't exactly know why I feel compelled to emphasize something in this video but here I am doing so.....when Stumpy said "plate glass" he meant plate glass......you can't use a pane of glass you get at the home center that's meant to replace a broken window pane.
Great video Mr. Nubs. I'm wondering why you did not insert another option (sharpening stones) but alas, it's your video.....who am I to ask?
Thanks for this video!! i love you content. I'm curious as to why you didn't mention the WorkSharp system!! I love it as a step just under the Tormek system! Fast and accurate, and pretty inexpensive. thanks again!
I'm curious about the handles of those chisels that look plastic from the side (e.g. 4:11) and wooden from the front (e.g. 4:13).
🤣
sir, what i have come to realize is the following, and let this be a lesson:
What i have come to realize is simply this:
Ebay, China Cheap, and it is delivered right at my front door.
So, why waste time on sharpening tools if i can put together a IKEA thing which looks nice enough and works good enough?
I just use the whetstone I use for my knives
1000 grit and 6000 grit
They all get razor sharp
Thanks for all the tips, James! 😃
Really valuable information!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I have a 30x1 belt that I cut the platform on to be able to go to about 35 ish degrees, it's pretty helpful with ceramic belts to get a nice bevel established quick.
I guess I qualify as an old-timer due to my age. Does anyone beside me still use soft Arkansas, hard Arkansas, then hard black Arkansas stone to sharpen? Takes the same skill as sandpaper and leaves a beautiful edge.
the tormek is nice but it is absurdly expensive 🤷♂️
I personally decided to follow the path of freehand sharpening. I use also a hand cranked grinder. Personally I have to admit that the learning curve is frustrating slow. Especially now that I put into use oilstones instead of water. But you learn a lot. Especially hand control that is good for hand tools users
It's not ideal to have sharp tools as you waste so much time sanding blood drops out of your work pieces... (7:57)
With practice technique you dont even need to go more than 120 and a strop. Just make sure the stropping is done opposite to the scratch pattern of the sandpaper; and that you're able to get the burr off both sides of the edge with both the rough side of the strop+compound AND with the smooth side of the strop.
Skip the sandpaper and go straight to a whetstone. Cheapest solution long-term and you can sharpen any blade on them, kitchen knives etc etc.
Really digging the new bird that bit of grey gives you a nice distinguished look
Not to alarm you, but it's actually a beard.
@@falxonPSN I know it auto wrote it as Bird, I just chose not to edit the comment after I posted it. I know how to spell beard but thanks anyway
I've found it's faster to use the carbide wheel and leaving the stone at fine grit. Especially if I actually need to move metal
it looks like you cut your finger on the side bevel of one of your chisels. Any tips on how to avoid that. When I'm concentrated on my work I just get those cuts and realise it when I wash my hands or see red dots on the workpiece like the once in the video.
You don't need to sharpen.
You just need a bigger hammer. :)
I love the videos and ones like this the most. I was wondering if you'd ever used the Wen sharpener and if so what you thought of it, thx?
I find it hard to believe that the disks on your drill press don't ruin the temper on the blades.
I tried a scrap piece of granite countertop that I got from a cabinet shop. Was shocked to find it so dished.
This can't be the only wet grinder on the market !
You didn't mention the main con of the last option. The cost.
No fingers were hurt in the making of this video. 7:57
Some people told me not to use glass plates at least not ones that aren't certified flat if I want really good results. Is that true? I need something to sharpen or measure different things concerning their flatness and I don't want to waste too much money on expensive reference planes. Is a glass plate really a good alternative? I want to build my own guitar and need such things to really get certain parts REALLY flat.
I have used plate glass for years and never had a complaint. I think sometimes we fuss over that sort of thing a little TOO much. I knew a guy who sharpened on the sidewalk outside his shop. I just want something as flat as possible.
Flat isn't actually that important it's just easier to use. You can sharpen a sword or knife with a rock for example. I think concave could give you difficulty.
Beginners generally should try to remove variables that make learning difficult. But most glass is more than flat enough.
The egyptians put sand between two rocks and rubbed them together to make a flat surface to then use.
Your sandpaper will wear out quick on the high spots though. I'd recommend those diamond sharpening stones you can get a set for cheap mine was £20 they're set on aluminium or something flat and last longer than the same cost of sandpaper. They look pretty and I like them in the kitchen, my knives have never been sharper.
If you have a triangle file you can do your basic serrated knives too, though even just regular sharpening already works wonders on them.
I usually use 2,000 over stropping with paste. Stropping is better and i'll set some on the inside of a kitchen cupboard door one day or something but it's not necessary. Brown paper will mirror polish and debur after that and help clean off the iron powder, and test the blade too.
I like to sit and sharpen while chatting in the kitchen, it's therapeutic and manly.
@@mandowarrior123 Well which guy doesn't love good tools right? Thanks for the info. But I thought serrated knifes usually have a concave round serration. Wouldn't it be better to use a round file then?
Most windows these days are made of float glass, which is dead flat and perfect for sharpening or use as a reference surface for assembling many things. See if a local glass shop might just have a chunk they'll give you or sell to you. Even if you have to pay for it, it's cheap. Just ask to be sure that it is float glass (there's a Wikipedia article about it if you want to know more). I use it for sharpening and as a flat reference surface... it's great stuff!
As a Cabinet maker myself, that was a cruel and unusual way to upset me, seeing you hammer that chisel edge!
Lol
I've appreciated your videos for many years. And while all these are great techniques, I use the Paul Sellers method, which is done freehand on stones (or diamond plates) and results in a slightly convex bevel that works beautifully. I never worry about getting a 10,000+ grit polish, as some do, as I'm likely to sand the wood down to 320 grit anyway so it takes a finish nicely. With experience, I can now sharpen a chisel in 60 seconds (3 stones and a strop) so I can get back to work. I do this on chisels and plane irons. Even really cheap chisels, like the ones sold at Aldi's once a year for about $10, sharpen up great and the convexity helps the edge last longer than a concave or flat bevel. Of course, your milage may vary.
I saw the thumbnail and took a hammer to the edges of all of my dad's chisels!
Edit:
But now that I've watched the video I'm a bit unsure what the point of doing that was.. Does it harden the edge or something? They just seem dull to me.. Also, I don't have sandpaper finer than 320, and no glass or something like that. I hope I don't need it, since it's his birthday tomorrow and I want to present him with the new and improved chisels before he takes them to work! ❤🎉
I've gotten pretty good at clamping my chisels and knives into a jig and using those narrow diamond sharpeners in hand like a file to get really sharp edge. I start with medium and work up to XX-fine and then strop. Crazy fast and no mess. Not perfect, but neither am I.
I got a set of diamond honing plates cheap from Amazon. I feel like they're a step up from sandpaper and work pretty well with a bit of effort and practice. I think my next upgrade will be to something like a Tormek, but maybe hacked together with less expensive components. Thanks for the useful info!
While I agree that sharpening is important, and especially hand sharpening, I disagree that it's the MOST important quality. Learn to hand saw to a scribed line and you will drastically decrease the time every single project takes you - especially on a job-site where you can't take an hour to create a jig.
Love my tormek.
Im also a proffesional grinderman
Use mine to sharpen knives for all of my coworkers and they cant believe i go home for my 30m lunch and come back with 2 or 3 razor sharp knives
Excellent video. Very informative. Agree that sharpening is a foundational skill in the workshop. I look at sharpening before starting work as a warmup. Gives me a chance to get in the right mindset for what is to come. Thank you very much.
I appreciate your no-nonsense approach, but about these sharpening videos - I have an axe to grind. No, really. Can you please show us how to sharpen curved edges like carving gouges, axes, etc?
$30 knife sharpening jig can do it better and cheaper
Better than what?
Sir always 🙏 love your information teachings as a ronin I look to all you online folks for lessons 🎉what is the deal with the Japanese plane 😮😮😮and tournaments they have for planning the perfect 👌 strip that's how sharp I want all my tools ,keep up great 👍 post
I still have PTSD from a guy I worked with putting a knife edge onto a planer bit and then wondering why it wouldn't cut. I did manage to file away the damage, and get the job done, but that pretty much ruined the bit.
Informative, useful and useable. Once again I appreciate what you share. Thanks 👍
Can't beat tormek
Will you PLEASE post a video of how you sharpen your plane blades using the Tormek T8? I have tried and tried, but I always end up making them skewed.
Your square-edge jig (SE-77) is adjustable. Assuming the tool is straight in the jig, you can adjust it's bias to one side or the other with the two little knobs. A fast way to do that is to color your bevel with a Sharpie, then move the stone by hand to see if it rubbing the color off evenly. Adjust the jig as needed. It only takes a minute or so.... Also, there is a little trick to locking down the bar consistently. It's shown in this video: ruclips.net/user/livewMATay8ITE8?si=0ERpa2eazSJCS3-a&t=1104
The most important workshop lesson I ever learned is weight is irrelevant when velocity is applied.
The first WW projects I learned on was scrollsawing Christmas ornaments. 1/8" thick baltic birch cut into 4"x4"' pieces. On a table saw. Using 12"x24" stock, cut into 4" strips, then cut each strip into 4'' pieces. Standing right behind the blade. That first 4x4 hit me so hard it brusied my chest. Not learning fast enough, I cut the second 4x4 and THAT one damn near made my heart stop. No joke (sorry for pulling a biden there). That piece of 4"x4", 1/8" thick piece of BB couldn't have weighed any more than an ounce or two. It felt like a sledge hammer when velocity was applied. aka kickback. Also, don't be a dumbass and stand behind the cut, stand to the side so the piece misses you and goes through the wall instead.
I can still feel the pain these 10 or so years later. Velocity will turn ANYTHING into a bullet. Standing in the line of fire is guaranteed to get you shot. A table saw deserves respect.
Your attempt at political whimsy has no place here.
Act like an adult and control yourself instead of being an idiot then trying to imply a sincere apology.
Woodworking and I just don't get along. I just like to watch your videos!
What do I do when I can't tell if my chisel is fully seated because the bevel is rounded? Most of my chisels have rounded bevels and I've been largely unsuccessful sharpening them.
well, you must have a magic tormek... I've spend half an hour on getting a chisel just a bit sharp on them, they"re so excruciatingly slow, which is why I went with diamond stones....
Lift the end of the handle to lever more pressure against the stone. It works wonders!
7:59 OMG, blood ... I 'll faint !!,
Another great video, well done sir! You make it look so easy but I know that comes from experience. No matter how many different videos I see of yours you always give great advice and knowledge to help in the craft and for that I say thank you! Can't wait to see more and as always, stay safe and Happy Building!😁
I had a Tormek and I hated it. The messy, wet process of grading the wheel to course and then to fine and back to course again drove me crazy. I use a Worksharp now and I like it much, much more. And, it costs a fraction of what the Tormek costs. Sorry Stumpy.
Why were you hrading your stone to course all the time for routine sharpening?
We're not worthy!
Thanks and keep the videos coming!
Pop would say. "Slow and steady for sharp and ready" when sharpening chisels and plane blades.
No need for adhesive for sandpaper. Spray the glass with water. The sandpaper will adhere fully but easily lift right off.
I love coarse grits!
Especially with cheese and shrimp - mmmmmmm 😂
Stumpy, I would really appreciate your thoughts on sending out saw blades to be sharpened, such as my chop saw and table saw blades? Thanks for all your education, your a key resource for me.
I've sent blades to Ridge Carbide for sharpening. It's been a while, though.
Quality content as usual. One thing that I'm concerned about though; in some of the more recent videos it seems like Nub's hands are a bit shaky. Close up shots can be this way but it seems a bit more than what I would call normal. I hope this isn't taken in a negative way, I'm more just concerned about his health.
ruclips.net/video/tOsoO6PhyuA/видео.html