I checked and my flashes are all up to date! Some of the firmware revisions are different on Sony vs Canon vs Fuji, etc, though, so that gets incredibly confusing.
I just put an SSD in a 13 year old windows laptop to make my updating process easier, since I’m a Mac user. I find the older the windows computer is, the better it works (also goes for updating Sony cameras).
To make the V1 modeling light softer, put some tiny piece of reflective cover tape on the diode. This will make it softer. I think/hope the main purpose of the light is to get an idea of correct positioning of softboxes etc in studio. V860 will not work on siftboxes, as the light will be outside the softbox!
I had a Very brief relationship with Godox last year. They sent me a prerelease product, I told them it was unusably bad by design, and I have never heard from them again 😂 Such is my relationship with brands most of the time lol
@@WesPerry ah ok. thanlks for replying. They should really always take every negative about a product and turn it into a positive. I use yongnuo for now.
Did the 45 min recharging time recharge the battery completely or only partially? Also, how many wedding photographs would you take only using the one battery? Thanks!
Oh no it takes about 3+ hours to fully charge from empty. And I can’t say I’ve ever run a battery down all the way in a single wedding/event. It can do 480 shots at 1/1 power, which isn’t even something you’d want to do. More like 3000+ photos at 1/8 power the norm.
Good morning and thanks for the very clear video ... The most important thing is to know if the "Focus Assist Lamp" of this Godox 860iii works WELL on the Sony A7IV camera Thank you very much
which one is better i don't want the one that's overheating well i'm not taking pictures like that for the flash to overheat. i just want a nice flash that will work every time i want to use my flash so tell me which one to go with
I just bought the Godox V860iii But now I'm thinking maybe I should exchange it for the V1. Does the V860iii actually have any advantages over the V1 except maybe being a tiny bit easier to fit into a bag?
@@WesPerry Thanks, so do you think the round head with all those magnetic attachments would be a better investment? That little LED can be handy, my older Yongnuo had a similar LED lamp, and we used it for phone selfies when traveling lol.
I can’t say I can make that call for someone else. For me it is, but I like to play with coloured gels and grids and barn doors, etc. Other people might have no/less use for that.
@@WesPerry Great review, Wes! As a former Flashpoint R2 LI-ON (N) user, I found that flash sometimes had the "misfire/underexposure" issue, even after a firmware update to V1.6. So, I now use the Godox V860lll. Thankfully, Godox makes an accessory (SR-1) that converts the rectangular head to a circular head (like the V1), so that any circular light mods can also be used on the V860lll...brilliant!
Internal timer is 15 minutes. Do anything within a rolling 15 minute window is counted. But it can be instantly reset by pulling the battery in and out momentarily. (Wouldn’t do that too often, though).
I’m interested to hear your take on the usefulness of the front modeling lamp on the mk3…I was interested until I found out it wasn’t on the flash head, so doesn’t work if you’re bouncing the flash
I honestly don’t get what it’s for. Haha For a focus assist, it’s blinding at any level (assuming you’re in a pretty dark environment, where people’s eyes have adjusted), and for a modeling lamp, as you say, it’s not where the head is, so that doesn’t help much either 🤔
It’s annoying to the subject, but it’s actually a game changer if you use the MagBounce for event photography with a dark, ugly colored or non-existent ceiling. It lights the subject for focus and does a little bit of “lookie here” for you. Haaa! Even when it’s very dark, I’ve hardly missed a shot since I got one.
@@WesPerry it is obvious that a light help for focus assist and even light the subject in video in a very dark scenario I don’t understand the ´what it’s for’. Try to focus in my very dark cinema room for example.
@@CC-gt3ro I may have mentioned in the V860iii video, I attempted to use it at the lowest level for focus assist at a very dark wedding reception. To what result? I got a few pictures of people shielding their eyes with their hands and that’s about it 😂 then I turned it back off 🤷🏻♂️
Buy a canon r6ii and try focusing in the dark at a club or something with speedlite AF assist beams no longer working on mirrorless. BELIEVE ME, that modelling light points straight and is great for the AF points and I point my flash up with a diffuser dome on top, I never point flash directly.
Just checked it out. Unfortunately only works in AF-S and a little less in AF-A, but not at all in AF-C unfortunately. Much like on the X1T and X2T. Appears to still be impossible to do AF-C, as Sony did say that pin doesn’t engage in AF-C. Why not is anyone’s guess. You’d think they could change that with a simple firmware update. But it’s been years now that this has puzzled everyone.
So, what do you do when it overheats if you need to keep using it? it feels like these flashes are basically useless if you only get 20 shots out of them, am I right?
@@WesPerry the manual (and my experience) has it at 30 shots in hss. And even after popping the battery out it will trip the mode again within a few flashes
Morning, I have ordered a V1 and V860iii and both have arrived but i can only return them if unopened, is the V1 more powerful or are they the same, they both say 76w but some sites have different estimated guide numbers, as you have both can you tell a difference?
Same power. Guide number is based on how far the head can throw light, and because of the round head on the V1, it simply doesn’t have as high a zoom range, so the V860 series gets a higher guide number. Same amount of light though.
@@WesPerry thanks for the quick response, I purchased the v1 and v860iii and both arrived this morning, the should be a good upgrade to my 865 flashes which I find terrible, now I know they are essentially the same I will keep both as they both offer me different things as you can easily change the heads on the V1 which is pretty cool
Will be doing high school graduation in May appx 260 kids. I have the godox 860ii which seems to misfire a lot (during weddings when shooting them coming down the aisle)which recently I've started changing channel so hopefully, that will help. So, I need to get a backup for this graduation in case I get an overheating issue, etc. The timing will be fast basically one shot of them getting diploma looking at the camera, so I do have a bit of control over timing if I take an extra second to nod, lol, then waiting for the next staged person to get theirs. Will be using sony a7iii with 70-200. I have godox AD200, AD300, but that won't help me since I can't use a light stand. Should I stick with another godox and just get the 860iii or is there a better option for this event?
@@WesPerry sometimes both manually and TTL. I think my hot-shoe hasn't been tight enough? and then I have changed the channel. Will be doing homecoming in a few weeks to see if I have any issues. But feel like I need a backup for sure with the graduation just in case. Ive been told to try shooting 1/16 at these events to help, so will try that as well.
@@WesPerry I guess I will grab the new 860iii as my main and use the 860ii as my backup. I dont think the V1 will give me any additional advantages for my situation.
You can use the X1T, X2T, XPro or R2Pro ii Check out my video comparing all the triggers if you want to know more: ruclips.net/video/HqhV77IVLm4/видео.html
First time I used the V1 in a hi-volume event shoot last weekend. I used the V1 on hotshoe but also had 2 AD200s on softboxes on opposite ends of the room (was in a big warehouse w high ceilings). The V1 overheated at one point when I was shooting a key scene, & wouldn’t restart - I was left hanging so quickly switched to my other v1. My question is, if I reduced the Flash exposure comp to like -.7 or -1, plus extend the zoom , would that significantly help? Thanks! great video.
It’s not so much that you want to lower exposure comp, because that likely won’t give you the exposures you want. Just up your iso a tad (assuming you’re using TTL) and that will lower the power levels. Also, if you get an overheat in a pinch, pull the battery and put it back in. Just don’t do that Too much 😏
@@WesPerry Thanks for replying so quickly. Very helpful! My thinking was that I could withstand a little underexposure given that I usually have off-camera flash assist + underexposure is better than none & I could fix in Lightroom later. But I’ll try the iso suggestion.
Mine burned today while shooting at 1/1 power 4 times after coming out of a party bus shooting at 1/256 power at about 2 shots a minute. I think mine might be defective my v860ii would handle a lot more without issues.
V1 doesn’t have a temperature sensor in it. Overheating is only based on numerical count of shots fired at different power levels. But if it’s firing in HSS it’ll thermally throttle quite quickly.
AD300 is much more resilient with HSS But when I really need to get a job done outside with flash, i use a good ND filter to get my shutter speed down below sync speed to make the most of my flashes 👌🏻
@@WesPerry yes, brother thanks for the advice. I started using my Nd after this last shoot actually. I have a Zomei variable nd which I use for videos and decide to give it a try and I loved it. I saw that inside the camera in front of the sensor nd which made me very interested but couldn’t find anybody talking about color shift and the other adapter with nd’s for insert inside the adapter(meike)seems to have an yellowishy tone and I shoot mostly clothes. Yellow and orange are basically the colors that I got work the mostly to get accurate colors in lightroom.
I responded to your previous comment as well, but they indicate what brand of camera they’re compatible with. O for Olympus, f for Fuji, n for Nikon, C for Canon, S for Sony.
Considering they have no internal thermistor, there technically isn’t even overheating. Just a set number of flashes at a set power level within 15 minutes will cause throttling. That quantity can be found in the manual. Recycle time can still slow a bit at these times (which is more the point of these tests). But just by looking at the manual it’s pretty easy to estimate if a particular flash model is going to perform well for you or not (at a particular power level).
As someone who is also hard of hearing, the balance of music vs voice depends greatly on what device / speakers you’re listening with. It’s a really tough balance to strike, and this one indeed turned out a tad louder than usual…
Unfortunately I can’t take the music out completely. When it’s 100% silent you can easily tell I’m in an “untreated space” and it sounds all echoey. It’s not Too bad, just need a Little something to cover it up. Lol. Neither my wife nor my wallet want me to cover the studio with sound dampeners 😂
The sunglasses, Wes. Hilarious!
Best Review I seen. The V860ii does have a firmware update. You should retest to see if the results changed
I checked and my flashes are all up to date! Some of the firmware revisions are different on Sony vs Canon vs Fuji, etc, though, so that gets incredibly confusing.
@@WesPerry Updating the firmware is a pain in the but that is one thing they need to work on
I just put an SSD in a 13 year old windows laptop to make my updating process easier, since I’m a Mac user. I find the older the windows computer is, the better it works (also goes for updating Sony cameras).
Very interesting, Wes. Thank you.
To make the V1 modeling light softer, put some tiny piece of reflective cover tape on the diode. This will make it softer. I think/hope the main purpose of the light is to get an idea of correct positioning of softboxes etc in studio. V860 will not work on siftboxes, as the light will be outside the softbox!
Your back seems better. Good. --BAK--
Wes, do you get any feedback from Godox on your heat tests and maybe they might make some improvements for v860iv based on your tests? Thanks
I had a Very brief relationship with Godox last year. They sent me a prerelease product, I told them it was unusably bad by design, and I have never heard from them again 😂
Such is my relationship with brands most of the time lol
@@WesPerry ah ok. thanlks for replying. They should really always take every negative about a product and turn it into a positive. I use yongnuo for now.
Did the 45 min recharging time recharge the battery completely or only partially? Also, how many wedding photographs would you take only using the one battery? Thanks!
Oh no it takes about 3+ hours to fully charge from empty.
And I can’t say I’ve ever run a battery down all the way in a single wedding/event. It can do 480 shots at 1/1 power, which isn’t even something you’d want to do. More like 3000+ photos at 1/8 power the norm.
Good morning and thanks for the very clear video ... The most important thing is to know if the "Focus Assist Lamp" of this Godox 860iii works WELL on the Sony A7IV camera Thank you very much
It only works in AF-S, such I don’t find to be terribly useful, personally.
thanks bro this video is really helpful it means a lot appreciated for ur effort tyvm
Excellent video, thanks a lot for this information!
which one is better i don't want the one that's overheating well i'm not taking pictures like that for the flash to overheat. i just want a nice flash that will work every time i want to use my flash so tell me which one to go with
Interesting to say the least:)
I just bought the Godox V860iii But now I'm thinking maybe I should exchange it for the V1. Does the V860iii actually have any advantages over the V1 except maybe being a tiny bit easier to fit into a bag?
Only two hardware advantages:
1) Focus assist beam/brighter light
2) Head has a wider zoom range
@@WesPerry Thanks, so do you think the round head with all those magnetic attachments would be a better investment? That little LED can be handy, my older Yongnuo had a similar LED lamp, and we used it for phone selfies when traveling lol.
I can’t say I can make that call for someone else. For me it is, but I like to play with coloured gels and grids and barn doors, etc. Other people might have no/less use for that.
@@WesPerry Great review, Wes! As a former Flashpoint R2 LI-ON (N) user, I found that flash sometimes had the "misfire/underexposure" issue, even after a firmware update to V1.6. So, I now use the Godox V860lll. Thankfully, Godox makes an accessory (SR-1) that converts the rectangular head to a circular head (like the V1), so that any circular light mods can also be used on the V860lll...brilliant!
От души! Спасибо за обзор!
Mine almost caught on fire today...
How long is the restarting process for the flash
Internal timer is 15 minutes. Do anything within a rolling 15 minute window is counted.
But it can be instantly reset by pulling the battery in and out momentarily. (Wouldn’t do that too often, though).
I’m interested to hear your take on the usefulness of the front modeling lamp on the mk3…I was interested until I found out it wasn’t on the flash head, so doesn’t work if you’re bouncing the flash
I honestly don’t get what it’s for. Haha
For a focus assist, it’s blinding at any level (assuming you’re in a pretty dark environment, where people’s eyes have adjusted), and for a modeling lamp, as you say, it’s not where the head is, so that doesn’t help much either 🤔
It’s annoying to the subject, but it’s actually a game changer if you use the MagBounce for event photography with a dark, ugly colored or non-existent ceiling. It lights the subject for focus and does a little bit of “lookie here” for you. Haaa! Even when it’s very dark, I’ve hardly missed a shot since I got one.
@@WesPerry it is obvious that a light help for focus assist and even light the subject in video in a very dark scenario I don’t understand the ´what it’s for’. Try to focus in my very dark cinema room for example.
@@CC-gt3ro I may have mentioned in the V860iii video, I attempted to use it at the lowest level for focus assist at a very dark wedding reception. To what result? I got a few pictures of people shielding their eyes with their hands and that’s about it 😂 then I turned it back off 🤷🏻♂️
Buy a canon r6ii and try focusing in the dark at a club or something with speedlite AF assist beams no longer working on mirrorless. BELIEVE ME, that modelling light points straight and is great for the AF points and I point my flash up with a diffuser dome on top, I never point flash directly.
Guys the new Godox 860iii S AF Bean Works 😃😃😃😃
Which body are you using?
Just checked it out. Unfortunately only works in AF-S and a little less in AF-A, but not at all in AF-C unfortunately. Much like on the X1T and X2T.
Appears to still be impossible to do AF-C, as Sony did say that pin doesn’t engage in AF-C. Why not is anyone’s guess. You’d think they could change that with a simple firmware update. But it’s been years now that this has puzzled everyone.
@@WesPerry The AF assist beam doesn't work in AF-C in almost all cameras, including DSLRs. I wish it worked on Nikon Z cameras :(
So, what do you do when it overheats if you need to keep using it? it feels like these flashes are basically useless if you only get 20 shots out of them, am I right?
20 shots?? Usually a lot more than that.
If you’re in an emergency, you can pop the battery out and back to reset the counter.
@@WesPerry the manual (and my experience) has it at 30 shots in hss. And even after popping the battery out it will trip the mode again within a few flashes
Is that at full power?
But yeah, I definitely wouldn’t recommend speedlights of any kind for demanding HSS work.
@@WesPerry no, that’s at 1/4 power
@@WesPerry what would you recommend, say for weddings for example?
Morning, I have ordered a V1 and V860iii and both have arrived but i can only return them if unopened, is the V1 more powerful or are they the same, they both say 76w but some sites have different estimated guide numbers, as you have both can you tell a difference?
Same power. Guide number is based on how far the head can throw light, and because of the round head on the V1, it simply doesn’t have as high a zoom range, so the V860 series gets a higher guide number. Same amount of light though.
@@WesPerry thanks for the quick response, I purchased the v1 and v860iii and both arrived this morning, the should be a good upgrade to my 865 flashes which I find terrible, now I know they are essentially the same I will keep both as they both offer me different things as you can easily change the heads on the V1 which is pretty cool
Will be doing high school graduation in May appx 260 kids. I have the godox 860ii which seems to misfire a lot (during weddings when shooting them coming down the aisle)which recently I've started changing channel so hopefully, that will help. So, I need to get a backup for this graduation in case I get an overheating issue, etc. The timing will be fast basically one shot of them getting diploma looking at the camera, so I do have a bit of control over timing if I take an extra second to nod, lol, then waiting for the next staged person to get theirs. Will be using sony a7iii with 70-200. I have godox AD200, AD300, but that won't help me since I can't use a light stand. Should I stick with another godox and just get the 860iii or is there a better option for this event?
Are you shooting in TTL or something? I hardly ever get misfires with V860ii’s
@@WesPerry sometimes both manually and TTL. I think my hot-shoe hasn't been tight enough? and then I have changed the channel. Will be doing homecoming in a few weeks to see if I have any issues. But feel like I need a backup for sure with the graduation just in case. Ive been told to try shooting 1/16 at these events to help, so will try that as well.
@@kellybuechlein2283 yeah, it’s pretty solid at 1/16, and if it starts to slow down, just pull the battery and put it back in.
@@WesPerry I guess I will grab the new 860iii as my main and use the 860ii as my backup. I dont think the V1 will give me any additional advantages for my situation.
can i ask what trigger would you need for the v1 s, thanks
You can use the X1T, X2T, XPro or R2Pro ii
Check out my video comparing all the triggers if you want to know more: ruclips.net/video/HqhV77IVLm4/видео.html
Very Good Video, Which one you recommend for the firsr speeslight between V1 and V860iii?
The only advantage of the V1 is the round head, making it a bit of a tough sell now. Depends what the price difference is where you are.
@@WesPerry It sell at the same price at my area. And also consider better jump to AD200pro or start with V1/V860, thanks before
Depends what kind of work you do. You can’t mount an AD200 to your camera 😂 (well…not easily. Lol)
How's the back?
Mostly back to normal now. I think? Haha
@@WesPerry great to see you mobile
just bought the AD300 pro 2 hours ago♥️😊
First time I used the V1 in a hi-volume event shoot last weekend. I used the V1 on hotshoe but also had 2 AD200s on softboxes on opposite ends of the room (was in a big warehouse w high ceilings). The V1 overheated at one point when I was shooting a key scene, & wouldn’t restart - I was left hanging so quickly switched to my other v1. My question is, if I reduced the Flash exposure comp to like -.7 or -1, plus extend the zoom , would that significantly help? Thanks! great video.
It’s not so much that you want to lower exposure comp, because that likely won’t give you the exposures you want. Just up your iso a tad (assuming you’re using TTL) and that will lower the power levels.
Also, if you get an overheat in a pinch, pull the battery and put it back in. Just don’t do that Too much 😏
@@WesPerry Thanks for replying so quickly. Very helpful! My thinking was that I could withstand a little underexposure given that I usually have off-camera flash assist + underexposure is better than none & I could fix in Lightroom later. But I’ll try the iso suggestion.
the music in the background is disturbing...I can´t concentrate on what your saying.
Agreed. The music is way too loud and obtrusive
6:50, did you mean III, not II?
Yes it would seem so
Mine burned today while shooting at 1/1 power 4 times after coming out of a party bus shooting at 1/256 power at about 2 shots a minute. I think mine might be defective my v860ii would handle a lot more without issues.
I bought it here and the logistics is fast :
Still on hold w Adorama for the 26A… yawn.
🤦🏻♂️
Has anyone tried the TTL function of V860iii on camera's hotshe? How accurate is it?
It’s…okayish. Lol
I’m not a bit fan of TTL either way, but it’s definitely more reliable than the V860ii
My V1 overheat when I use it outside as a transmitter on a sunny day, it’s frustrating sometimes
V1 doesn’t have a temperature sensor in it. Overheating is only based on numerical count of shots fired at different power levels.
But if it’s firing in HSS it’ll thermally throttle quite quickly.
@@WesPerry that’s why then. It was hss to ad300pro
AD300 is much more resilient with HSS
But when I really need to get a job done outside with flash, i use a good ND filter to get my shutter speed down below sync speed to make the most of my flashes 👌🏻
@@WesPerry yes, brother thanks for the advice. I started using my Nd after this last shoot actually. I have a Zomei variable nd which I use for videos and decide to give it a try and I loved it. I saw that inside the camera in front of the sensor nd which made me very interested but couldn’t find anybody talking about color shift and the other adapter with nd’s for insert inside the adapter(meike)seems to have an yellowishy tone and I shoot mostly clothes. Yellow and orange are basically the colors that I got work the mostly to get accurate colors in lightroom.
Those letters the v60iii (o) (f) (n) do they mater
I responded to your previous comment as well, but they indicate what brand of camera they’re compatible with. O for Olympus, f for Fuji, n for Nikon, C for Canon, S for Sony.
For me, Godox is a bust. Had many different flash models, all have overheating issues.
Considering they have no internal thermistor, there technically isn’t even overheating. Just a set number of flashes at a set power level within 15 minutes will cause throttling. That quantity can be found in the manual. Recycle time can still slow a bit at these times (which is more the point of these tests). But just by looking at the manual it’s pretty easy to estimate if a particular flash model is going to perform well for you or not (at a particular power level).
As somebody who is hard of hearing, the music makes it harder for me to concentrate on your voice versus the music which is incredibly distracting...
As someone who is also hard of hearing, the balance of music vs voice depends greatly on what device / speakers you’re listening with. It’s a really tough balance to strike, and this one indeed turned out a tad louder than usual…
@@WesPerry That's true. One way to negate the balance is to remove the music entirely... Great content, thank you.
Unfortunately I can’t take the music out completely. When it’s 100% silent you can easily tell I’m in an “untreated space” and it sounds all echoey. It’s not Too bad, just need a Little something to cover it up. Lol. Neither my wife nor my wallet want me to cover the studio with sound dampeners 😂