Thank you! It is so great that you combine numbers, statistics and your impressions in reviews! It really sets you apart from other reviewers. Could you also add next things to feature reviews: - Recycle time measurement at high powers. Maybe from 1/1 to 1/16. - Power stability in serial shooting. Some low price flashes decrease power in duration of series. Good flashes stop firing when can't emit required energy. - Light distribution at different zoom levels and with integrated diffuser. It you review radio triggers: - Maximal shooting speed. For Godox there are two cases: single user mode and when multiple photographers share the same flashes.
Thanks for the video. Been looking at the V1 vs 860mk3 all day. Currently $30 cheaper to get the 860. Decided to go for the 860. I like the built in flash card, smaller to pack and looks a little less obnoxious on camera. Where I really had to make the decision is what can one do that the other can not. The 860 has the LED light that may or may not be useful. The 860 has the further zoom setting that may or may not be useful. I have a soft box that accepts the AD200 or the 860 where the V1 will not work. And you can get the round adapter for $10 to use all the round accessories. So in theory the 860 can do everything the V1 can, and a few things it can not. However not so much the other way around. Based on my research, a lot of old school shooter's just happened to prefer the way light is projected with the 860 over the V1, apparently less waisted light. But I know myself personally I always prefer soft diffused light. I always bounce when I can, and when I couldn't usually had a dime diffuser on my old setup. Despite this preference, my analytical and logical brain said go for the 860MK3 as it seemed more versatile in the end, and also at a slight cost savings. What I am curious of is how the fresnel head preforms using the adapter for the round mag accessories. Being a mismatch in form factor, have you noticed any impact on overall quality of diffusion or directionality of light?
yeah there are certainly some cases when the square head doesn't give optimal results with the round adapter. like using the grid or barn doors, or any sort of direct firing, it will still have a general Shape to it. I use the V1 as a backdrop light sometimes, as it has a very even falloff that isn't noticeable, but I can't swap in a 860 in it's place, because it has a peculiar shape that is obvious.
I went through most of your stress tests and reviews of the V1, AS200 and the V8600iii and ii. Thanks a lot for all of your time and the details you went into. It was very informative. You really got into details I was looking for - like color accuracy. I was looking for something to replace my canon 600ex strobes. I quite like them, but I never know how full the batteries are. And the new Canon one with lithium battery costs 4 times more than this one - and normally I carry 4 of the Canon speedlites with me ;) Again, thanks for all your efforts, you just made my search (and life) easier.
just picked up a used V860ii/$140 for my new to me Sony A7R3. i now wonder if i should have waited. thanks for the effort and sharing.. i am an appreciative subscriber. thumbs up.
Just got mine. The mode button is a bit annoying. Sometimes it works fine and sometimes I have to press a bit harder. And the rotating wheel seems fragile. It's also too easy to turn.
Hey Wes, great video! I like the modeling light. I shoot hybrid and if I need to capture video in a dark situation on the fly, the modeling light works great!
The buttons on the V1 wheel drive me absolutely nuts. I always end up changing the mode or some other feature when I am trying to spin the dial. I was desperately hoping the new version of the 860 would solve that, but it just added the same problem. Fail 😢
I have to disagree with you about the modeling lamp or focus assisting lamp. I own the Canon R5 and used the led modeling lamp from the V860iii in a dark lit wedding reception space. I used the older EF 85mm 1.2 lens on people moving across the dance floor and was able to land 90% of my shots. Wherever I pointed the focusing point were tack sharp in comparison to using the AF assist beams. My only complaint is that leaving it on will drain the battery a lot faster. So its best to shut off the led light when switching to another camera. The Godox V860iii and the RF 28-70mm f2.0 was my best investment for the year. I plan on getting a second V860iii.
Yeah, I can certainly see how it would work for that, but I was in a dark environment (1/160s, ISO 1600, f/1.8 without flash), and I turned the light to minimum, and I could see people immediately covering their eyes and shying away from me, so I turned it right back off again 😂 I feel like you shouldn't have any difficulty focusing with the R5 in low light in pretty much any circumstance anyway! With the a9, I can't say that I've had much issue with focusing in low light, and haven't seen much need for a focus assist of any kind. This will, of course, depend on your body, lens, and circumstances.
@@WesPerry I agree with with you about focus ability of the R5 and the light blinding people in close proximity. 😂 But with the older and heavier EF 85mm 1.2 it was troublesome focusing in a dark environment. Thank you for replying and for this great review of the V860iii. Its was good seeing you pop up on my RUclips page. It seems like RUclips algorithm has been putting more nonsense on my main page then creators I subscribe to. Thank you again.
I had someone actually tell me recently that I need to make shorter videos with less info, and more positive assessments of everything. Like…dude, I think that’s already covered. Too much fluff out there already. No thanks 😂
Thank you Wes for your thorough and honest review. I personally find the godox menus (I have v1s) somewhat confusing and I usually need to look things up to refresh as I don't use them very frequent.
Wes, your knowledge and experience was very evident in this helpful review, thank you. With 2x V860II, an XPro-N Trigger, and 1x AD200 Pro coupled with NO knowledge and experience, I listened to every word. I'm not planning an upgrade, just hungry for info about using what I have in-and-around my small home studio. Thanks for a few tips in this video. BTW, just last week my cell phone batt swelled up and popped the back cover off the bottom of the case. Thanks to you, I now know what happened. Think I'll investigate whether there is a new "A" version for the Godox VB18 batt. And I see a few more of your videos I want to check out. Thank you!
The light on the front IS a focus assist beam, because mirrorless cameras do not work with the red focus assist beams of previous generations of on camera flashes
Godox themselves call it a modelling lamp to ‘preview your lighting effects’, but who knows who wrote that particular part of the spec sheet, I suppose. The focus assist beam Does work with mirrorless cameras, as it’s not infrared like some, but instead is visible light. It’s just a matter of compatibility with a manufacturer’s hotshoe triggers for focus modes that is in question.
The screw design of the V860II hotshoe mount IS better than the latch design of the V860III, copied from Canon flashes. It allows user to tighten down flash to ensure there is no wobble of the flash, and protentional causing mis-fires... this happens alot when the mount becomes loose over time. It only takes a second more to unscrew mount, over using latch mount... hardly a major inconvenience.
I did say that some like them better ;) BUT, I will add, I had a past flash wish a twist lock (I can’t even remember anymore what brand it was…might have been Sony), that was often wobbly, because all it did was assume a fixed position when locked, but these newer Godox ones actually seem to apply Pressure regardless of how much play there is available, rather than just coming down to a particular fixed position (in addition to sliding in the two tiny locking posts), so it seems to be less susceptible to the wobble effect of past twist locks. But still, I’m sure that if things are Really loose, a screw lock would still be better.
In the head of the flash you can pull out this little white sheet that just stands there. What is that for? The plastic part you can pull out is a Diffusor I guess?
It’s called a bounce card. Less commonly used these days, when you’re using it as a bounce flash you point it at the ceiling, when using the card as well it just bounces a little bit more light straight forward.
Nice video as always, Wes. You are the reason that I have been using Godox for the last 3yrs, got an AD600 Pro, 1x AD200 Pro and various speedlights & transmitters. BTW, this TCM function only works for the flash itself, right? I mean, would it work like the TCM on the XPro for the wireless slaves when it acts as a master?
i have a VB18 that was less than 6 months old and is now DEAD. it will NOT charge. i put it into the charging station and the red lights keep blinking but no charge NADA. i am VERY disappointed since these batteries are not inexpensive. as for their power delivery, i have had no issues with my V1 or TT685 but i am not pleased with the Godox VB18. thanks for your effort and sharing. i am an appreciative subscriber. thumbs up.
Depends on what you need/want. The V1 is only useful if you’re planning on using the round magnetic adapters. Now that the R2 has the same battery updates, there’s no other reason to get it really.
@@WesPerry I am new just want to try Godox. Right now V1 is on Sale at Adorama with R2 Transmitter at $199. original cost 318 dollars. so I thought I can see if there is any advantage to get R2 or Stay with V1 and save some money.
I already own a V1 and decided to purchase the V860iii after watching, but I’m having an issue I’m hoping you can help me out with. and hopefully I’m just overlooking something simple. Shooting High speed sync with Nikon, the V1 does perfect, but with the V860iii, I get the black line across the screen at any shutter speed above 1/200. Also, the camera’s screen brightness doesn’t adjust when I turn the V860iii on/off. The settings in both flashes are identical, so I have no idea what the problem is. Any idea?
It doesn’t sound like it’s connecting to your camera properly. You’re sure you have a Nikon version of the flash (V860iii-N)? And make sure the hot shoe and flash shoe are clean.
one thing i see reviewers not mentioning is that the V1 dosnt fit in your bag as easily as the v860. I have a V1 and storing it is a pain in the... you know. Anyways i have a V1 and hot shoe broke changed it and then the flash stopped fireing at times so contacted godox and they said it was a mother board issue. Hense why im back looking at reviews as since i had the v1 the newer v860iii is available. I love the snap on features of the V1 but im thinking for easier storge in your bag the V860. Never easy decisions
I Wes, I purchased a V860iii-N (for Nikon). Two things don't quit work: 1) Zoom focus length adjustment. The instruction says press the Zoom button, then rotate the dial. I did, but the value does not change, it is stuck at 14mm. 2) There is no instruction on how to set it for FEB (flash exposure bracketing) in the user's manual. Can you provide some guidance? Thank you.
Is the flash mounted to your camera while you’re trying to adjust the zoom? On Sony’s it defaults to your lens focal length when pointed forward. I’d have to look into the exposure bracketing thing. I haven’t tried it myself.
@@WesPerry Hi Wes, thank you for replying. I also checked with Godox tech support, it turned out that the diffuser plate must be totally retracted in order for the zoom focus length adjustment to work on the flash. It was not clearly specified in the user's manual. There is no answer to the FEB/FEC not being displayed as an option or function, although the FEC value can be adjusted in iTTL mode by pressing the +/- button and rotating the dial. I asked the tech support for more info. I will share it here once I hear back.
@@WesPerry Update. According to Godox tech support, only V860IIIC has the FEB function, the FEB function button is not avaialable in V860IIIN. As for FEC, it is not available in Manual mode, quote: "because when the V860IIIN is set to manual mode, you can use the power to fit your need". Not sure what this means.
With a modifier or directly pointed at a subject? With modifier they’re the same, as they produce the same amount of light. Direct flash the V860iii is brighter, as it has a much more focused beam when zoomed.
I’m hoping you could help me I just purchased the 863 and I put it on a new Sony a 74 everything went on it flashes and I can get it on automatic however I had seen a thing on RUclips where when it was on automatic it since what lens you had on at mine doesn’t do that it’ll show me what the F stop is but it doesn’t show me which lens I’m using and the video I saw they actually slid from like 70 to 200 and the flash showed the changes I was wondering if there was a setting I had to turn on to make it do that thank you
which is better for Portrait and event?? the V1?? it is better the round head?? because the flash will be soround the lights better area or wide?? it's will be not harsh right?? what do u think?? what would you suggest??
It’s a tiny bit less harsh on the V1 yeah. But for me the v1 is all about the magnetic modifiers. If you’re not going to use those a lot (but I do), then the V860iii is the way to go.
I'm using a sony A6000 planning to buy V860III or TT685II planning to use in events and possible future proof. which do you think should i pick up? i do like your review to flash and lights very informative keep it up.
That's a personal choice for sure. They are functionally the same flash, the biggest difference just being the lithium ion battery pack, which will get you longer battery life and faster recycle times. Just depends how important that is to you for the $$$
My preferred flash for real estate photography is the AD300 Pro. Compact and I use it handheld. I find the speedlight just isn’t enough power to balance window light most of the time.
What?? That's super surprising. I would just contact them and ask if they'll send you the new battery. In the product page on Adorama, it actually show's the A variant battery in the photos, so they should have to honor that!
Looking a little further, in the specs list, the battery mentioned matches the original rather than the new A battery, so that's certainly confusing on their part.
Definitely contact Adorama's customer service first, though. They tend to be pretty good. The new battery being in the product photos will go a long way for your argument, though.
If you're using lots of flashes (in excess of 5) you're actually better off getting one of the older version 1 or 2 models of the V860 as you can add the wireless receiver which has access to extra channels beyond A-E
I just bought a Leica SL2, I work with Sony and all my flashes are Godox, my question is: if I buy a XPro ll L will my flashes for Sony will synchronize ?
Thank you for the useful information about mark III. I have V860 mkII and TT600 and I'm happy. I would like AD200 pro but I can't afford it at this time.
TT600 is one of the worst flash you can ever buy. Very inconsistent light when firing on weddings, gets hot very quickly very slow, misfires alot and so on. Just save money and buy v860iii or v860ii.
Nice review, as usual ! what do you think of the green cast of the ad100 pro ? I a searching a wireless flash ( using it with an umbrella, or during wedding reception). i actually have a v1, but misfire sometime and recycle is not perfect. Ad200 is a better option ? Just fot filling the shadows, not for overpowering the sun, if course.
The green cast thing honestly doesn’t bother me at all. For most, the AD100 Pro is used as a rim light or a secondary light of some kind where this isn’t obvious. Or at a venue where the lighting is in no way controlled to begin with, so the cast is insignificant compared to all the other sources of light affecting the shot. Are your misfires coming from firing too fast, or from wireless interference? What is your power level usually?
@@WesPerry firing too fast, flash can't always keep up. Shooting kids ! Sometimes on HSS... But v1 does a great job at low price. Just need an extra reliability when shooting burst. And could be useful in some venue for wedding.
Yeah, it bogs down Really fast in HSS. So does the AD200, though. If you need fast And HSS, you’re looking at a lot of power 😬 I’d say AD200 Pro at minimum, if you’re not trying to compete with the sun. Often the best way of dealing with this is to just get out of HSS, simply by changing your exposure settings, or putting on an ND filter to get that shutter speed down.
@@WesPerry Thx for the answer, always try to stay around 1/200 to avoid hss, and shooting mostly on the shade. So ad 200 seems to be a good choice. Ad 300 is too big when you are on the move.
Hello, im new to the photography world. I have an A6400 I'm looking to buy a flash for. It's between the 3 and v1. Which would you suggest? I tried to follow your video, but my ignorance to the terminology hindered me.
These are both quite large flashes for a camera of that size. But if you’re okay with that, it’s really up to you. How do the prices compare where you live? It seems to vary greatly depending on country.
So I'm in the market for one of these, now does the (S) make a difference? Or can the (s) be used with a canon ? I got told from a seller that I'll be getting second hand from said it'll be compatible with Canon or should I get the (C)
Hi Wes Thanñs for the great reviews, and I have a Quetion, I have two 860 II for Sony and I broke both their plastic hot shoe you said that we can change them , can you give me more info or tell me how to go about it ? thanks for everything love your show
I‘m landscape photographer and have hardly ever used flashes. Now I’m going to buy one and can’t decide between the V1 and 860iii. For the portraits I usually use the 200mm focal distance, if I take a group photo I often use 20mm. For this reason I think the 860iii would be a better choice for me, am I wrong? On the other hand, if I‘m going to use my new flash mainly remotely, the restricted (28-105mm only) range of the V1 doesn’t matter much, does it?
So I take it from this that you plan on using on camera flash and shooting it straight at the subject from the 200mm focal length? Generally considered a no-no these days, but if that’s the thing, the V1 indeed doesn’t have the same range of zoom.
@@WesPerry , no, I‘m not going to point the flash directly for 200mm (but I used so my old flash at 20mm for group portrait photos). Because of lack of experience I‘m not sure I would ever need the 200mm reach of the flash but pretty sure the 20mm…
Excellent review, Wes. My only question is if the oberheating protection works the aame as in the version II or is it smarter? Or at least can you disable it?
It's no smarter, no, primarily numerically based. You can override it by popping out the battery and putting it back in quickly. I don't recommend doing this too often, though 😏
@@WesPerry So the V1 has the magnetic adapters? Otherrwise the V860 iii is the better choice? (The price doesnt differt so much between the two, ). But what is about the V860 iii better than the V1 (except the lack of the magnetic adapter) . I want a flash for the Sony A7 IV, for event, birthday, or wedding photographie.
I am looking to replace my Canon 580EXII for use on the Canon R5. would you recommend the V1 or 860III? I found the Canon flash seemed a bit glitchy on the R5 although works perfect on the 5dmkii. I was told the newer flashes are more compatible
The R5 has a slightly modified new hotshoe, that unfortunately seems to cause their older flashes to be a bit flakey at times. Shame. As far as the difference between these two, it really just comes down to the bright LED light on the V860iii or the round magnetic attachments on the V1. Which do you want to use? That’s the flash for you. Lol
@@WesPerry Thanks for the quick reply. sounds like the V1 is what to go with. I dont think I would ever use the LED light. I would only use this at events. for Studio I have 7 Alienbees
Hey @wesperry you mentioned that the channel scanner is on the x pro trigger. I was curious how to get to it on the trigger? Also what is the app called that you can use to see which channel is clear to use? Thanks!
A well organized video. Can we take burst shot through 860 ii @ power 1/8 or 1/16? I think that's clearly possible with 860 iii. Is it so? This is one of my decision factor. 2nd- Can we use this (ii or iii) for macro photography? Would it be suitable?
@@Vicky-il5yv o got a V860iii... Now I need a difusser hahahah. When all this "interest for a hobby" started I never thought it'd be so expensive hahahah
@@chilodaone I am also a hobby photographer. And yeah that's true it's an expensive hobby 🙂. And when it comes to diffuser I use dome based diffuser one from Godox. It is good for macro (if not the best) but also very good for portraits, thus I picked it. May be in future I will get one specially built for macro if I feel it is not enough for macro. BTW we can also DIY the same, there are lot of videos on that and people are using it for some serious macro photography.
@@WesPerry i'm usually taking a photo of birthday party and sometimes i need to do it outdoor with really low light and i can't really manage the off cam flash...so wish to see example
I don't own one but I thought the Manual/TTL switch gave you TCM and its reverse. I.E. When you shoot in TTL switching to M gives you the settings that TTL uses, switching back to TTL gives you the original TTL settings including FEC values. Do you think it's possible to buy a replacement MK III foot and put it on a MK II?
You still use the TCM function with the other mode selector button at the bottom as well. Hmm…I’ll have to take them apart to see if they’re cross compatible ;)
@@WesPerry I've just looked at the manual and it says that TCM is applied when you switch from M to TTL. Now the interesting question is what happens when the speedlight is controlling other lights? It must do the TCM operation to all the lights when going from M to TTL but what happens when you switch back to M? I'm hoping that it restores the TTL settings on all the lights which originally had them, a MCT function if you will. The V1 can't do this neither can the XPro.
@@WesPerry Thank you for the quick reply. Key I guess if I have V1 (also have one 860II) is the new battery compatibility between the V1 and the 860III more than anything for me. The diffusers for the V1 may make me still lean that way. Also there are lightly used V1 out there that are lower in price.
It operates on the open 2.4GHz wifi spectrum, using the same channels routers hop around in. Channel scan checks to see which of these WiFi channels are congested. In some places with a lot of nearby routers and devices this can be a huge issue. In more sparsely populated areas not so much.
Thanks for the review. I wouldn’t use one if you gave if to me! That button dial is the absolute worst designed thing on them. If you don’t lock off the controls, which is a pain at busy weddings, the mode selection is basically random! It changes if it touches your forehead, gets slightly knocked when hanging at your side. You have to check every time you take a shot to see what’s changed.
I think that’s only happened to me a couple times over the last few years. It’s funny how differently such things work for different people. Like when Sony put the mode dial lock on their cameras. I can’t stand it! But other people say they constantly knocked their Sony out of mode, when that’s never once happened to me 😂
@@WesPerry Yeah, others have said they don’t have a problem with it, I’ve probably got the perfect eye to forehead ratio to hit the bloody dial all the time! lol I’d literally take one shot, have a look on the screen, all ok, next shot totally off because the flash is now in multi mode or something 🙄 Wonder if that hardware switch would stop that 🤔
Great video, Wes, thank you. I am having a problem trying to bounce light. It seems to be much darker than the V860IIN, do you have any suggestions on how to get lighter. Are there any setting I should use in my I a Nikon D780 to get better results or how to correct on flash.
Awesome, happy to hear it! Most people are reporting that the ttl is more stable on this flash, so it’s somewhat surprising. Is there a flash comp setting turned down inside your camera as well maybe?
I was hoping to learn something about recycle time, or did I miss that part? I would think that’s a lot more important to the average photographer covering events and weddings than slight variations in colour accuracy.
Watch my V860iii overheating video just prior to this one which is all about recycle. The manual actually contains the info about recycle times as well, giving a table showing what to expect (also covered in that video)
Yeah, you can slave a V860ii to almost anything. Using the transmitter mode in the flashes is just the same as using an actual transmitter like the X2T or XPro etc
Hey Wes! I loved the V1 for how quickly it recycled but the accessory kit was driving me crazy... keeps falling off the the wedding!! What the heck?! Did that happen to you at all?? I wanted to know if the 860iii had the same recycle time as the v1 (although it does freeze up after some time and stats to lose the quick recycle time....I may have over worked them. Lol) I'm looking for something with that amount of power that has a super fast recycle time and really love the concept of the accessories but hate that they were falling off. I also LOVE the battery life a ton!! What would you suggest as the best option? It does not have to be godox....I just want an amazing speedlight. Thank you so much for all of your amazing informative videos!!!
The V860iii has exactly the same guts as the V1, so same recycle time. I’m afraid I haven’t had that issue with stuff falling off, no. It would be nice if the magnets were just a little bit stronger, though.
Yea that's what I figured from watching the videos you posted about both. Do you think the 860iii is better than most you've tried or are there any others I could consider? I'm cool on the $300 range each
Hey Wes! Came across yourt video while researching an upgrade for my mark II collection. One of my biggest issues is when I shoot weddings and I use magmods for light modifiers. On my camera I use the magsphere and it's a bit heavy for my godox, so sometimes it drops down as I angle it up. Would you find the mark III more stable in the various angled positions so it could take the weight of the magmod? Thanks! My second question - and I am going to watch some more of your videos so maybe it will get answered there - my other big issue, only as of this year (I've had most of my flashes for about 2 years) is after a few hours of ceremony shooting, even though I am only shooting at maybe 1/16 power, the recycle rate drops. It says the battery is still pretty full and earlier in the night it is refreshing consistently when I hold the trigger down. Is that me needing new batteries or would that be time to upgrade to the mark III version for more consistent, fast, recycle rates? Thank you!
Part 1, I find this flash Quite stuff, almost too stiff, so I can’t imagine any drooping issues, but I’ve never used magmod, so I can’t be sure. 2, there is an overheat counter built into all of these. It’s number based, not temperature based. You can easily reset it by pulling the battery out for a moment. I don’t recommend doing this during intense work, because you don’t want to legitimately overheat and damage it, but if you think you’re not really working it that hard, it shouldn’t be an issue.
I would think you'd give it better than 7/10 in value, when the first-party alternatives are at least twice the price and the Profoto is five times as much.
Yeah but you can get a different Godox product with nearly all the same features except the LED and lithium ion battery for $100 less (TT685ii). That’s pretty close to half price!
@@WesPerry btw, thanks a lot about talking about battery issue. because i was inclined to buy II gen due to 11v and relatively faster recyc. time... I will def. buy 3gen...
Great review Wes. One thing I didn't see you compare was TTL accuracy. I have both the V860ii and V1 for Sony. I find the TTL to be significantly more accurate and consistent on the V860 ii than the V1. I'd be interested to know how the mk iii compares. I use TTL with the camera in manual mode a lot during events and follow Jerry Ghionis' technique of bouncing off the room to get nice soft light. It's very hard on the flashes but the results are worth it. Both the V860 ii and V1 put up with this abuse where every other flash I've tried will overheat. Again I'd be interested to hear how the V860 iii performs. One final note. I recently had to purchase a new hot shoe foot for the V1 and was elated to receive a brand new metal foot. Time will tell if it's stronger but it certainly bodes well for the future.
I don’t use ttl myself, so I often forget to test it. Oddly enough I’ve had many people tell me their ttl performance is better on the V1 than the V860ii (but best on the V860iii). It has the exact same overheating performance as the V1 for the most part.
@@WesPerry Thanks. I'm interested in your testing methodology for the color accuracy - it's not often you see someone doing this in youTube reviews of flashes / strobes. It's probably time I tested my AD600s since they have worked pretty hard for their money!
I took a brand new colour passport and focused in on the RGB squares to measure their values. They should be exactly equal. Tested all my lenses to find the most colour neutral one, and then went to work. Then in a pitch black room, each flash was fired over a dozen times directly at the colour panel, then results were averaged (though often quite consistent even without averaging). For power output and ttl consistency I tested similarly but with a grey card.
Nice review! I just bought 4x of the Flashpoint version (R2 Zoom Li-on III) and this is my first experience with FP/Godox. So far so good, but does anyone know if it's possible to remote control the zoom length of the OCF? I can change power/zoom on my Yongnuo flashes easily, but can't figure it out on the FP.
if you scroll through the godox x pro trigger menu ":SHOOT" it has the option for a single user/master and multiple user/master. In multiple master option you can use multiple masters for the same slave (it will trigger the salve with the power settings of the master flash). In single user option you can triggers the salves BUT without the power settings being transmitted to the slave. to transmit power settings you need to press test button first and then take a photo; With V860II - multiple user was the default setting in the flash. V1 had the single user default setting, For this reason I sold all my V1s and revert back to V860II Now with V860III, it looks like the menu is same as V1, Can you please tell me if V80III is a multiple user/master, OR single user/master. Thanks
Thank you for the video and for all these comments! Now I'm going to buy the first flash for Fuji xt-4 and choose between the V1 and 860 III. Which is better to take as the first? I like to shoot a reportage (and weddings), portraits. First I want to shoot from the camera, and then I'll take the stand and the transmitter. Probably) I would appreciate your advice.
I use them all the time! Mostly I use the grid and barn doors to control back lighting, but also pretty regularly snap coloured gels on as well for effects.
It’s interesting how wildly Godox prices vary from country to country. Makes the whole value recommendation difficult. I was going to talk about that at the end of the video, but ended up being too long already 😂
It’s for two reasons: 1) these assists used to be infrared, which DSLR focus systems could see but mirrorless systems cannot 2) it is indeed up to the camera manufacturers to supply this compatibility . But because of point 1, they largely just haven’t, even though if the system was in place in the hot shoe, third parties would have figured it out by now. This one will do focus assist on Sony, but only in Af-S, which is a mode that hardly ever gets used anymore for most things.
Just got my Godox iii S for Sony and when powered on, it turns the "live view" mode off. I use a flash fill alot and use "live view" to determine exposure and flash balance, I dont see a firmware update. Anyone have this issue. Im shooting with Sony A7iii.
There’s a setting in the a7iv to deal with this, but unfortunately not on the iii. The easiest thing to do is quickly turn the flash off for a second unfortunately
Well…I am someone who likely to plan for contingencies. So I will have two on camera flashes (used to be V860ii, but now V1), one only as a backup. Two AD200’s for main lights at reception, and one of the speed lights is used as a kicker for the dances. Also an AD600 Pro for outdoor work, and an AD300 Pro as a backup for that (will use it in the reception if I’m having difficult with my main angle AD200 in the space). So…six 😂
@@WesPerry no just thought it was a nice feature to mention. I bought the flash 2 weeks ago and have been impressed. Use it with the z6ii and the model light really helps in low light as the AF assist beam doesn't fire
Hey I think I locked mine, its a 860iii, not sure how it happend and can't get it fxed. anyone knows what to do to unlocked it? thinking its locked cause it still work as only flash but no bottoms work or react to me pressing them
you just have to hold down the left hand button with the little lock next to it for 3-5 seconds. That's also how you engaged the lock in the first place (however accidentally).
@@WesPerry Hi Perry, I appreciate your quick response. regretfully this did not work, I press the lock bottom and the left one for over 30 seconds without success. Not sure if its just damage. I just got it like recently too :-(
@@rafaelrivas8910 There's not much else to explain. I just tried it on mine and it worked fine. Three seconds holding the button to lock, three seconds to unlock. There much be something else going on there! 😬
@@WesPerry I got a message from the seller, looks like something happen with the hot shoe, I took it off and right away all bottoms started functioning again, once I put it back on- they locked again- so in a way problem fixed....or problem solved just need a new hot shoe.
why dont you ever mention Olympus or Panasonic? and yes the modeling light could be useful as a key light for interviews, blogging or model shoots at night...by the way nice with the photo of One Direction
I have to limit my scope to some degree. I don’t know a lot about Panasonic and Olympus cameras, and combined they only occupy about a 5% market share these days (Olympus actually having exited the camera market, new owner’s plans still pending…). Hard to say if there’s a future for Panasonic or not, unless they finally embrace phase detect AF 🤔
I love editing Wes who’s not trying to sell presets. Edit your own photos, just fiddle with the sliders! You are so right, love this 😆
Vn
You said the obnoxious 'magic 'word 'presets '....
I like Your sarcasm when selling Your presets 🤣🤣🤣
I have no idea what you’re talking about 👀
@@WesPerry sorry I thought You were trying to sell presets , with a little sarcasm
Thank you!
It is so great that you combine numbers, statistics and your impressions in reviews!
It really sets you apart from other reviewers.
Could you also add next things to feature reviews:
- Recycle time measurement at high powers. Maybe from 1/1 to 1/16.
- Power stability in serial shooting. Some low price flashes decrease power in duration of series. Good flashes stop firing when can't emit required energy.
- Light distribution at different zoom levels and with integrated diffuser.
It you review radio triggers:
- Maximal shooting speed. For Godox there are two cases: single user mode and when multiple photographers share the same flashes.
Thanks for the video. Been looking at the V1 vs 860mk3 all day.
Currently $30 cheaper to get the 860.
Decided to go for the 860.
I like the built in flash card, smaller to pack and looks a little less obnoxious on camera.
Where I really had to make the decision is what can one do that the other can not.
The 860 has the LED light that may or may not be useful.
The 860 has the further zoom setting that may or may not be useful.
I have a soft box that accepts the AD200 or the 860 where the V1 will not work.
And you can get the round adapter for $10 to use all the round accessories.
So in theory the 860 can do everything the V1 can, and a few things it can not.
However not so much the other way around.
Based on my research, a lot of old school shooter's just happened to prefer the way light is projected with the 860 over the V1, apparently less waisted light. But I know myself personally I always prefer soft diffused light.
I always bounce when I can, and when I couldn't usually had a dime diffuser on my old setup.
Despite this preference, my analytical and logical brain said go for the 860MK3 as it seemed more versatile in the end, and also at a slight cost savings.
What I am curious of is how the fresnel head preforms using the adapter for the round mag accessories.
Being a mismatch in form factor, have you noticed any impact on overall quality of diffusion or directionality of light?
yeah there are certainly some cases when the square head doesn't give optimal results with the round adapter. like using the grid or barn doors, or any sort of direct firing, it will still have a general Shape to it. I use the V1 as a backdrop light sometimes, as it has a very even falloff that isn't noticeable, but I can't swap in a 860 in it's place, because it has a peculiar shape that is obvious.
With regard to the "obnoxiously bright" focus assist, I think it is brilliant for wedding receptions. I use it to trigger my AD200Pro / MagMod setup.
Me too!!!
I went through most of your stress tests and reviews of the V1, AS200 and the V8600iii and ii. Thanks a lot for all of your time and the details you went into. It was very informative. You really got into details I was looking for - like color accuracy. I was looking for something to replace my canon 600ex strobes. I quite like them, but I never know how full the batteries are. And the new Canon one with lithium battery costs 4 times more than this one - and normally I carry 4 of the Canon speedlites with me ;) Again, thanks for all your efforts, you just made my search (and life) easier.
That one direction bit was subtle but hilarious. Thanks. Love the review
There’s one more very hard to find joke in there…but I’m very sneaky. Lol
@@WesPerry damn you. Now I'm gonna go back and watch it again. Haha. Great stuff. Thanks for making the review entertaining as well as informative.
That One Direction pun and picture 😂🙌🏽 It got me rewinding
just picked up a used V860ii/$140 for my new to me Sony A7R3. i now wonder if i should have waited. thanks for the effort and sharing.. i am an appreciative subscriber. thumbs up.
My tip to 860 II users :
To avoid accidental turning it on when puting it away; You can insert it's accu the wrong way in.
I have this problem, what accu?
@@EvanWisheropp Accu = the one block rechargeable battery.
Just got mine. The mode button is a bit annoying. Sometimes it works fine and sometimes I have to press a bit harder. And the rotating wheel seems fragile. It's also too easy to turn.
I personally wanted stronger angle detents or a locking mechanism from Godox. The weak detents often slip when I'm using a light modifier.
I feel like any stronger and you’ll be putting excessive strain on the shot shoe 😬
Hey Wes, great video! I like the modeling light. I shoot hybrid and if I need to capture video in a dark situation on the fly, the modeling light works great!
Very comprehensive, thanks for the information. I will not be upgrading as the VII is more than adequate for me.
The buttons on the V1 wheel drive me absolutely nuts. I always end up changing the mode or some other feature when I am trying to spin the dial. I was desperately hoping the new version of the 860 would solve that, but it just added the same problem. Fail 😢
Yeah, drives a lot of people crazy. My nose is big enough that it doesn’t happen to me, though 😂
I have to disagree with you about the modeling lamp or focus assisting lamp. I own the Canon R5 and used the led modeling lamp from the V860iii in a dark lit wedding reception space. I used the older EF 85mm 1.2 lens on people moving across the dance floor and was able to land 90% of my shots. Wherever I pointed the focusing point were tack sharp in comparison to using the AF assist beams. My only complaint is that leaving it on will drain the battery a lot faster. So its best to shut off the led light when switching to another camera. The Godox V860iii and the RF 28-70mm f2.0 was my best investment for the year. I plan on getting a second V860iii.
Yeah, I can certainly see how it would work for that, but I was in a dark environment (1/160s, ISO 1600, f/1.8 without flash), and I turned the light to minimum, and I could see people immediately covering their eyes and shying away from me, so I turned it right back off again 😂
I feel like you shouldn't have any difficulty focusing with the R5 in low light in pretty much any circumstance anyway! With the a9, I can't say that I've had much issue with focusing in low light, and haven't seen much need for a focus assist of any kind. This will, of course, depend on your body, lens, and circumstances.
@@WesPerry I agree with with you about focus ability of the R5 and the light blinding people in close proximity. 😂 But with the older and heavier EF 85mm 1.2 it was troublesome focusing in a dark environment. Thank you for replying and for this great review of the V860iii. Its was good seeing you pop up on my RUclips page. It seems like RUclips algorithm has been putting more nonsense on my main page then creators I subscribe to. Thank you again.
I had someone actually tell me recently that I need to make shorter videos with less info, and more positive assessments of everything.
Like…dude, I think that’s already covered. Too much fluff out there already. No thanks 😂
Great review! I liked that you showed the prices of similar flashes at the end. And that editing bit was great. 👍
Thank you Wes for your thorough and honest review. I personally find the godox menus (I have v1s) somewhat confusing and I usually need to look things up to refresh as I don't use them very frequent.
They’re not perfect by any means. But compared to the previous generation it’s Much easier.
Wes, your knowledge and experience was very evident in this helpful review, thank you. With 2x V860II, an XPro-N Trigger, and 1x AD200 Pro coupled with NO knowledge and experience, I listened to every word. I'm not planning an upgrade, just hungry for info about using what I have in-and-around my small home studio. Thanks for a few tips in this video. BTW, just last week my cell phone batt swelled up and popped the back cover off the bottom of the case. Thanks to you, I now know what happened. Think I'll investigate whether there is a new "A" version for the Godox VB18 batt. And I see a few more of your videos I want to check out. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
The light on the front IS a focus assist beam, because mirrorless cameras do not work with the red focus assist beams of previous generations of on camera flashes
Godox themselves call it a modelling lamp to ‘preview your lighting effects’, but who knows who wrote that particular part of the spec sheet, I suppose. The focus assist beam Does work with mirrorless cameras, as it’s not infrared like some, but instead is visible light. It’s just a matter of compatibility with a manufacturer’s hotshoe triggers for focus modes that is in question.
@@WesPerry Any knowledge whether the focus assist beam is also triggered on Nikon Z cameras?
I followed and like just for his "presets", that was truly amazing
The screw design of the V860II hotshoe mount IS better than the latch design of the V860III, copied from Canon flashes. It allows user to tighten down flash to ensure there is no wobble of the flash, and protentional causing mis-fires... this happens alot when the mount becomes loose over time.
It only takes a second more to unscrew mount, over using latch mount... hardly a major inconvenience.
I did say that some like them better ;)
BUT, I will add, I had a past flash wish a twist lock (I can’t even remember anymore what brand it was…might have been Sony), that was often wobbly, because all it did was assume a fixed position when locked, but these newer Godox ones actually seem to apply Pressure regardless of how much play there is available, rather than just coming down to a particular fixed position (in addition to sliding in the two tiny locking posts), so it seems to be less susceptible to the wobble effect of past twist locks.
But still, I’m sure that if things are Really loose, a screw lock would still be better.
In the head of the flash you can pull out this little white sheet that just stands there. What is that for? The plastic part you can pull out is a Diffusor I guess?
It’s called a bounce card. Less commonly used these days, when you’re using it as a bounce flash you point it at the ceiling, when using the card as well it just bounces a little bit more light straight forward.
Nice video as always, Wes. You are the reason that I have been using Godox for the last 3yrs, got an AD600 Pro, 1x AD200 Pro and various speedlights & transmitters. BTW, this TCM function only works for the flash itself, right? I mean, would it work like the TCM on the XPro for the wireless slaves when it acts as a master?
I believe it works on the xpro as well? Will have to check…
i have a VB18 that was less than 6 months old and is now DEAD. it will NOT charge. i put it into the charging station and the red lights keep blinking but no charge NADA. i am VERY disappointed since these batteries are not inexpensive. as for their power delivery, i have had no issues with my V1 or TT685 but i am not pleased with the Godox VB18. thanks for your effort and sharing. i am an appreciative subscriber. thumbs up.
Yeah, those batteries have a terrible reputation. Thankfully none of my 5 ever failed on me 🤞🏻
hi, what do you recomment V1 or R2? which one is better?
Depends on what you need/want. The V1 is only useful if you’re planning on using the round magnetic adapters. Now that the R2 has the same battery updates, there’s no other reason to get it really.
@@WesPerry I am new just want to try Godox. Right now V1 is on Sale at Adorama with R2 Transmitter at $199. original cost 318 dollars. so I thought I can see if there is any advantage to get R2 or Stay with V1 and save some money.
I already own a V1 and decided to purchase the V860iii after watching, but I’m having an issue I’m hoping you can help me out with. and hopefully I’m just overlooking something simple.
Shooting High speed sync with Nikon, the V1 does perfect, but with the V860iii, I get the black line across the screen at any shutter speed above 1/200. Also, the camera’s screen brightness doesn’t adjust when I turn the V860iii on/off. The settings in both flashes are identical, so I have no idea what the problem is. Any idea?
It doesn’t sound like it’s connecting to your camera properly. You’re sure you have a Nikon version of the flash (V860iii-N)? And make sure the hot shoe and flash shoe are clean.
one thing i see reviewers not mentioning is that the V1 dosnt fit in your bag as easily as the v860. I have a V1 and storing it is a pain in the... you know. Anyways i have a V1 and hot shoe broke changed it and then the flash stopped fireing at times so contacted godox and they said it was a mother board issue. Hense why im back looking at reviews as since i had the v1 the newer v860iii is available. I love the snap on features of the V1 but im thinking for easier storge in your bag the V860. Never easy decisions
That’s a great point! It comes to mind a lot for me, but I’ve never put it into the reviews unfortunately.
I Wes, I purchased a V860iii-N (for Nikon). Two things don't quit work: 1) Zoom focus length adjustment. The instruction says press the Zoom button, then rotate the dial. I did, but the value does not change, it is stuck at 14mm. 2) There is no instruction on how to set it for FEB (flash exposure bracketing) in the user's manual. Can you provide some guidance? Thank you.
Is the flash mounted to your camera while you’re trying to adjust the zoom? On Sony’s it defaults to your lens focal length when pointed forward.
I’d have to look into the exposure bracketing thing. I haven’t tried it myself.
@@WesPerry Hi Wes, thank you for replying. I also checked with Godox tech support, it turned out that the diffuser plate must be totally retracted in order for the zoom focus length adjustment to work on the flash. It was not clearly specified in the user's manual.
There is no answer to the FEB/FEC not being displayed as an option or function, although the FEC value can be adjusted in iTTL mode by pressing the +/- button and rotating the dial. I asked the tech support for more info. I will share it here once I hear back.
@@WesPerry Update. According to Godox tech support, only V860IIIC has the FEB function, the FEB function button is not avaialable in V860IIIN.
As for FEC, it is not available in Manual mode, quote: "because when the V860IIIN is set to manual mode, you can use the power to fit your need". Not sure what this means.
Which one is the most powerful in terms of light intensity and filling outdoor in bright day at 1/1?
With a modifier or directly pointed at a subject?
With modifier they’re the same, as they produce the same amount of light.
Direct flash the V860iii is brighter, as it has a much more focused beam when zoomed.
Whenever i carry my batteries or when i store them, i ensure that they dont get accidentally shorted.
I’m gonna assume still no “shoot” mode settings for when using it as a controller?
I’m hoping you could help me I just purchased the 863 and I put it on a new Sony a 74 everything went on it flashes and I can get it on automatic however I had seen a thing on RUclips where when it was on automatic it since what lens you had on at mine doesn’t do that it’ll show me what the F stop is but it doesn’t show me which lens I’m using and the video I saw they actually slid from like 70 to 200 and the flash showed the changes I was wondering if there was a setting I had to turn on to make it do that thank you
which is better for Portrait and event?? the V1?? it is better the round head?? because the flash will be soround the lights better area or wide?? it's will be not harsh right?? what do u think?? what would you suggest??
It’s a tiny bit less harsh on the V1 yeah. But for me the v1 is all about the magnetic modifiers. If you’re not going to use those a lot (but I do), then the V860iii is the way to go.
@@WesPerry Thanks..
I'm using a sony A6000 planning to buy V860III or TT685II planning to use in events and possible future proof. which do you think should i pick up? i do like your review to flash and lights very informative keep it up.
That's a personal choice for sure. They are functionally the same flash, the biggest difference just being the lithium ion battery pack, which will get you longer battery life and faster recycle times. Just depends how important that is to you for the $$$
@@WesPerry but do you think in terms of weight which would be better?
They weigh about the same.
@@WesPerry thank you for that insight :)
Great video. Thank you. I am a Realtor using a Sony A7III and am looking for a flash. Which of these would you recommend?
My preferred flash for real estate photography is the AD300 Pro. Compact and I use it handheld. I find the speedlight just isn’t enough power to balance window light most of the time.
I know some people use a speedlight on camera pointing forward for real estate, but I don’t much care for that look.
@@WesPerry thinking more of an off camera recomendation. I typically use a light tripod stand
Do you currently have a light that you use for real estate?
@@WesPerry no
Oh my gosh - I bought a flashpoint iii, but it came with the 26 battery, 18.72Wh. I was jipped! Should I return?
What?? That's super surprising. I would just contact them and ask if they'll send you the new battery. In the product page on Adorama, it actually show's the A variant battery in the photos, so they should have to honor that!
Looking a little further, in the specs list, the battery mentioned matches the original rather than the new A battery, so that's certainly confusing on their part.
Waaah! Well, I could always go w Godox if I want the newer battery. Perhaps a return is in order if it’s not actually “identical, just rebranded”.
Definitely contact Adorama's customer service first, though. They tend to be pretty good. The new battery being in the product photos will go a long way for your argument, though.
If you're using lots of flashes (in excess of 5) you're actually better off getting one of the older version 1 or 2 models of the V860 as you can add the wireless receiver which has access to extra channels beyond A-E
Where can I order "editing your own photos"? It seems like a great tool to edit my photos.
Has someone tested this on Nikon Z cameras? Does the AF Assist light get activated ? AF-S only of course, no assist light has ever worked on AF-C.
Hi Wes, would you say it was worth updating to the V860mkiii flash although I have only the TT350 at the moment. I have been considering the V860mkii
Unless you can get a Much better price on the mkii, I would say it’s worth going for the iii.
I just bought a Leica SL2, I work with Sony and all my flashes are Godox, my question is: if I buy a XPro ll L will my flashes for Sony will synchronize ?
Yep. It’ll work just fine 👌🏻
@@WesPerry Great! Thank you!
Thank you for the useful information about mark III. I have V860 mkII and TT600 and I'm happy. I would like AD200 pro but I can't afford it at this time.
One step at a time ;)
TT600 is one of the worst flash you can ever buy. Very inconsistent light when firing on weddings, gets hot very quickly very slow, misfires alot and so on. Just save money and buy v860iii or v860ii.
So ad200 is better than v860?
Nice review, as usual ! what do you think of the green cast of the ad100 pro ?
I a searching a wireless flash ( using it with an umbrella, or during wedding reception). i actually have a v1, but misfire sometime and recycle is not perfect. Ad200 is a better option ? Just fot filling the shadows, not for overpowering the sun, if course.
The green cast thing honestly doesn’t bother me at all. For most, the AD100 Pro is used as a rim light or a secondary light of some kind where this isn’t obvious. Or at a venue where the lighting is in no way controlled to begin with, so the cast is insignificant compared to all the other sources of light affecting the shot.
Are your misfires coming from firing too fast, or from wireless interference? What is your power level usually?
@@WesPerry firing too fast, flash can't always keep up. Shooting kids ! Sometimes on HSS... But v1 does a great job at low price. Just need an extra reliability when shooting burst. And could be useful in some venue for wedding.
Yeah, it bogs down Really fast in HSS. So does the AD200, though. If you need fast And HSS, you’re looking at a lot of power 😬
I’d say AD200 Pro at minimum, if you’re not trying to compete with the sun. Often the best way of dealing with this is to just get out of HSS, simply by changing your exposure settings, or putting on an ND filter to get that shutter speed down.
@@WesPerry Thx for the answer, always try to stay around 1/200 to avoid hss, and shooting mostly on the shade. So ad 200 seems to be a good choice. Ad 300 is too big when you are on the move.
AD300 is pretty great for size, though. Not a great value, but surprisingly small and powerful!
Hello, im new to the photography world. I have an A6400 I'm looking to buy a flash for. It's between the 3 and v1. Which would you suggest? I tried to follow your video, but my ignorance to the terminology hindered me.
These are both quite large flashes for a camera of that size. But if you’re okay with that, it’s really up to you. How do the prices compare where you live? It seems to vary greatly depending on country.
So I'm in the market for one of these, now does the (S) make a difference? Or can the (s) be used with a canon ? I got told from a seller that I'll be getting second hand from said it'll be compatible with Canon or should I get the (C)
S can’t be used with canon, you’ll definitely want the c. The letter just indicates what brand the hot shoe is made to communicate with.
@@WesPerry got it I figured that's what it was for but seller claimed it was compatible thanks for the info !
The canon one can work in a limited manner on a Sony body, but the Sony one won’t work at all on a canon body.
The mkIII is in a weird space, because for $30 more you get the V1 which gets you more WS, and a better UI.
Yes indeed
Nice. Thanks Wes
I was wondering if the V860M3 can control the V860M2's ???
It can, yes
@@WesPerry Thank you.
Great review. So, is there actually an AF assist lamp built in? (not the modelling lamp)
There is yes. For Sony, though, it only works in AF-S, which is a mode I almost never use 🤷🏻♂️
@@WesPerry Thank you.
Haha, I see what you did there with "One Direction"
Sharp eyes 😏
Hi Wes Thanñs for the great reviews, and I have a Quetion, I have two 860 II for Sony and I broke both their plastic hot shoe you said that we can change them , can you give me more info or tell me how to go about it ? thanks for everything love your show
I’m gonna have to cover this soon. Sometimes on eBay, sometimes alibaba
@@WesPerry thanks
I‘m landscape photographer and have hardly ever used flashes. Now I’m going to buy one and can’t decide between the V1 and 860iii. For the portraits I usually use the 200mm focal distance, if I take a group photo I often use 20mm. For this reason I think the 860iii would be a better choice for me, am I wrong? On the other hand, if I‘m going to use my new flash mainly remotely, the restricted (28-105mm only) range of the V1 doesn’t matter much, does it?
So I take it from this that you plan on using on camera flash and shooting it straight at the subject from the 200mm focal length? Generally considered a no-no these days, but if that’s the thing, the V1 indeed doesn’t have the same range of zoom.
@@WesPerry , no, I‘m not going to point the flash directly for 200mm (but I used so my old flash at 20mm for group portrait photos). Because of lack of experience I‘m not sure I would ever need the 200mm reach of the flash but pretty sure the 20mm…
So if you’re going to be modifying it or just placing it wherever, then yeah, the zoom range doesn’t matter so much.
Excellent review, Wes. My only question is if the oberheating protection works the aame as in the version II or is it smarter? Or at least can you disable it?
It's no smarter, no, primarily numerically based. You can override it by popping out the battery and putting it back in quickly. I don't recommend doing this too often, though 😏
@@WesPerry oh so it's the same system :(. Thanks for the reply, Wes
What would you pick if you have to decide one of the them - the V860 iii or V1?....a quick reply, please ( I have to decide to buy in 2 days)
All depends on whether or not you intend to use the round magnetic adapters. If not, go for the V860iii
@@WesPerry So the V1 has the magnetic adapters? Otherrwise the V860 iii is the better choice? (The price doesnt differt so much between the two, ). But what is about the V860 iii better than the V1 (except the lack of the magnetic adapter) . I want a flash for the Sony A7 IV, for event, birthday, or wedding photographie.
Nothing different. They’re essentially the same flash except for the head.
I have 2 both flashes v860iii has little bit more power than V1.
I suspect that has more to do with the head being more focused than in the V1. The overall quantity of light is about the same.
I am looking to replace my Canon 580EXII for use on the Canon R5. would you recommend the V1 or 860III? I found the Canon flash seemed a bit glitchy on the R5 although works perfect on the 5dmkii. I was told the newer flashes are more compatible
The R5 has a slightly modified new hotshoe, that unfortunately seems to cause their older flashes to be a bit flakey at times. Shame.
As far as the difference between these two, it really just comes down to the bright LED light on the V860iii or the round magnetic attachments on the V1. Which do you want to use? That’s the flash for you. Lol
@@WesPerry Thanks for the quick reply. sounds like the V1 is what to go with. I dont think I would ever use the LED light. I would only use this at events. for Studio I have 7 Alienbees
Great Video Wes, What would you pick over the 860iii or V1 if purchasing your 1st flash?
If cost weren’t an object, the V1 for sure. Love the easy magnetic accessories!
They sell a magnetic mount for standard flash heads to use accessories. Flashpoint number is S-R1 I believe.
Yes, I did mention that in the video 😉
But it’s another piece to fumble around with and lose on a fairly regular basis 😂
I would be concerned about the adapter+flash fitting in a bag.
Hey @wesperry you mentioned that the channel scanner is on the x pro trigger. I was curious how to get to it on the trigger? Also what is the app called that you can use to see which channel is clear to use? Thanks!
Afraid I misspoke there. It's on the XPro ii / R2 Pro 2 trigger, not the original Pro. It's also available on the X2T trigger.
A well organized video.
Can we take burst shot through 860 ii @ power 1/8 or 1/16? I think that's clearly possible with 860 iii. Is it so?
This is one of my decision factor.
2nd- Can we use this (ii or iii) for macro photography? Would it be suitable?
I want to know that too
@@chilodaone I had picked 860 iii only. But offcouse ii is also good.
And yes, are also suitable for macro photography.
@@Vicky-il5yv o got a V860iii... Now I need a difusser hahahah. When all this "interest for a hobby" started I never thought it'd be so expensive hahahah
@@chilodaone I am also a hobby photographer. And yeah that's true it's an expensive hobby 🙂.
And when it comes to diffuser I use dome based diffuser one from Godox. It is good for macro (if not the best) but also very good for portraits, thus I picked it.
May be in future I will get one specially built for macro if I feel it is not enough for macro.
BTW we can also DIY the same, there are lot of videos on that and people are using it for some serious macro photography.
that preset is fire!
isn't going to be on sale anytime soon?
Sold out immediately, unfortunately. I’ll have to cook up another batch 😏
Can you connect the v860iii to a external battery?
No, only the AA powered ones have the external battery hookup.
it'd be really cool if u make a clip about godox portrait shooting out door at night with really low light environment. Thank you in advance.
Hmm. I don’t do a lot of that. Any particular reason?
@@WesPerry i'm usually taking a photo of birthday party and sometimes i need to do it outdoor with really low light and i can't really manage the off cam flash...so wish to see example
Bought the flashpoint R2 III on sale for $130....so, the value for me was a 10.
Will the V860 mark III work on my Nikon D7500 camera?
As long as you get the V860iii-N specifically for Nikon it’ll work great.
Is there a difference between v860 iii (f)
And v860iii (n)
Are these letters even important
They have different hot shoes. The n works only on Nikon, the f only on Fuji.
The "That's what she said" at 2:08 almost made me lose my drink!!!!
My work here is done 😏
I don't own one but I thought the Manual/TTL switch gave you TCM and its reverse. I.E. When you shoot in TTL switching to M gives you the settings that TTL uses, switching back to TTL gives you the original TTL settings including FEC values.
Do you think it's possible to buy a replacement MK III foot and put it on a MK II?
You still use the TCM function with the other mode selector button at the bottom as well.
Hmm…I’ll have to take them apart to see if they’re cross compatible ;)
@@WesPerry I've just looked at the manual and it says that TCM is applied when you switch from M to TTL. Now the interesting question is what happens when the speedlight is controlling other lights? It must do the TCM operation to all the lights when going from M to TTL but what happens when you switch back to M? I'm hoping that it restores the TTL settings on all the lights which originally had them, a MCT function if you will. The V1 can't do this neither can the XPro.
Thanks for the review. So other than the $30 savings is the 860III offer any advantage over V1?
Over the V1? Focus assist beam, the brighter LED, and more zoom range on the head. The usefulness of all these things depends on the user…
@@WesPerry Thank you for the quick reply. Key I guess if I have V1 (also have one 860II) is the new battery compatibility between the V1 and the 860III more than anything for me. The diffusers for the V1 may make me still lean that way. Also there are lightly used V1 out there that are lower in price.
I haven’t seen many used ones out there.
But the shared battery is certainly a convenience.
@@WesPerry Try Fred Miranda buy/sell forums.
would love to know more about channel scans
It operates on the open 2.4GHz wifi spectrum, using the same channels routers hop around in. Channel scan checks to see which of these WiFi channels are congested. In some places with a lot of nearby routers and devices this can be a huge issue. In more sparsely populated areas not so much.
@WesPerry thank you for your help. I will have to try on my next shoot
Also looking to get a new flash which would you recommend for Sony A74 the 860iii or the v1
Is it possible to charge battery via usb-c directly in the Flash without using external charger?
No, the usb c port is only for updating firmware, I’m afraid.
Thanks for the review. I wouldn’t use one if you gave if to me! That button dial is the absolute worst designed thing on them. If you don’t lock off the controls, which is a pain at busy weddings, the mode selection is basically random! It changes if it touches your forehead, gets slightly knocked when hanging at your side. You have to check every time you take a shot to see what’s changed.
I think that’s only happened to me a couple times over the last few years. It’s funny how differently such things work for different people.
Like when Sony put the mode dial lock on their cameras. I can’t stand it! But other people say they constantly knocked their Sony out of mode, when that’s never once happened to me 😂
@@WesPerry Yeah, others have said they don’t have a problem with it, I’ve probably got the perfect eye to forehead ratio to hit the bloody dial all the time! lol I’d literally take one shot, have a look on the screen, all ok, next shot totally off because the flash is now in multi mode or something 🙄 Wonder if that hardware switch would stop that 🤔
Great Video
Great video, Wes, thank you. I am having a problem trying to bounce light. It seems to be much darker than the V860IIN, do you have any suggestions on how to get lighter. Are there any setting I should use in my I a Nikon D780 to get better results or how to correct on flash.
Are you talking about while using TTL?
@@WesPerry Yes....I also had my camera on manual 1/200 f/8.....thank you for the quick response. What should I do?
Could it be as easy as increasing the exposure comp of the TTL on the flash?
@@WesPerry Thanks Wes, I tried that and it helped. Had to take the exposure comp to +2.4. Again, thanks for the quick response.
Awesome, happy to hear it!
Most people are reporting that the ttl is more stable on this flash, so it’s somewhat surprising. Is there a flash comp setting turned down inside your camera as well maybe?
I was hoping to learn something about recycle time, or did I miss that part? I would think that’s a lot more important to the average photographer covering events and weddings than slight variations in colour accuracy.
Watch my V860iii overheating video just prior to this one which is all about recycle.
The manual actually contains the info about recycle times as well, giving a table showing what to expect (also covered in that video)
Question : is it possible to use v860ii like slave witch is triggered from v860iii, or this function is available only with v860iii+v1 combo.
Yeah, you can slave a V860ii to almost anything. Using the transmitter mode in the flashes is just the same as using an actual transmitter like the X2T or XPro etc
@@WesPerry Thank you for you fast and complete response.
Hey Wes! I loved the V1 for how quickly it recycled but the accessory kit was driving me crazy... keeps falling off the the wedding!! What the heck?! Did that happen to you at all?? I wanted to know if the 860iii had the same recycle time as the v1 (although it does freeze up after some time and stats to lose the quick recycle time....I may have over worked them. Lol)
I'm looking for something with that amount of power that has a super fast recycle time and really love the concept of the accessories but hate that they were falling off. I also LOVE the battery life a ton!! What would you suggest as the best option? It does not have to be godox....I just want an amazing speedlight. Thank you so much for all of your amazing informative videos!!!
The V860iii has exactly the same guts as the V1, so same recycle time. I’m afraid I haven’t had that issue with stuff falling off, no. It would be nice if the magnets were just a little bit stronger, though.
Yea that's what I figured from watching the videos you posted about both. Do you think the 860iii is better than most you've tried or are there any others I could consider? I'm cool on the $300 range each
As far as I’m concerned, the only upgrade from the V860iii is the Profoto a1x for 3x the price.
Ahhhh yes. Okay thank you so much!!
@@WesPerry out of the 3 speed lights you featured which one would be your go to besides the profoto speed light?
Hey Wes! Came across yourt video while researching an upgrade for my mark II collection. One of my biggest issues is when I shoot weddings and I use magmods for light modifiers. On my camera I use the magsphere and it's a bit heavy for my godox, so sometimes it drops down as I angle it up. Would you find the mark III more stable in the various angled positions so it could take the weight of the magmod? Thanks! My second question - and I am going to watch some more of your videos so maybe it will get answered there - my other big issue, only as of this year (I've had most of my flashes for about 2 years) is after a few hours of ceremony shooting, even though I am only shooting at maybe 1/16 power, the recycle rate drops. It says the battery is still pretty full and earlier in the night it is refreshing consistently when I hold the trigger down. Is that me needing new batteries or would that be time to upgrade to the mark III version for more consistent, fast, recycle rates? Thank you!
Part 1, I find this flash Quite stuff, almost too stiff, so I can’t imagine any drooping issues, but I’ve never used magmod, so I can’t be sure.
2, there is an overheat counter built into all of these. It’s number based, not temperature based. You can easily reset it by pulling the battery out for a moment. I don’t recommend doing this during intense work, because you don’t want to legitimately overheat and damage it, but if you think you’re not really working it that hard, it shouldn’t be an issue.
@@WesPerry I appreciate the response! :) I may try one out and see. Will the mark III talk ti the mark II without additional equipment?
Yeah they’re all on the same communication protocol.
If you use a flash only sometimes, a TT350 is enough. If you use flashes indoor und outdoor and in many situation, I would take the V860III.
I need a flash for my Nikon Z6II. I generally shoot portraits. Godox V1N or Godox V860IIIN? Which would you recommend?
How do you use your flash?
@@WesPerry On Camera for now.. Maybe in future I may try off camera..not sure
Get your flash off your camera and use an AD200.
I would think you'd give it better than 7/10 in value, when the first-party alternatives are at least twice the price and the Profoto is five times as much.
Yeah but you can get a different Godox product with nearly all the same features except the LED and lithium ion battery for $100 less (TT685ii). That’s pretty close to half price!
Is there a release date for Edit Your Own Photos 2?
Working hard on it! Need to make some sweet Z8 money 😏
I dont need ttl but high recycle time and good color accuracy. What do you think about v850iii? Is it same with v860 but without ttl?
Not sure if the iii will ever exist, but it would likely lack TTL and transceiver functionality (ability to control other flashes).
@@WesPerry yes it is very new and really unpopular..introduced with 860iii...
@@WesPerry btw, thanks a lot about talking about battery issue. because i was inclined to buy II gen due to 11v and relatively faster recyc. time... I will def. buy 3gen...
Goodness, I didn’t even realize it existed yet. Haha
I my last video I said I expected it to come out soon. Lol
Looks like it has transceiver functionality, but no TTL and no updates screen. Pretty good deal.
mmm, i might be able to use that modelling light for light painting night real estate scenes..
Now that’s one use that makes a little sense… perplexingly? Lol
@@WesPerry You should see me running around a swimming pool after sunset with my flashes trying not to fall in! LOL
@@thebackyardbrewer5611 gonna need some video of this one 😂
Great review Wes. One thing I didn't see you compare was TTL accuracy. I have both the V860ii and V1 for Sony. I find the TTL to be significantly more accurate and consistent on the V860 ii than the V1. I'd be interested to know how the mk iii compares. I use TTL with the camera in manual mode a lot during events and follow Jerry Ghionis' technique of bouncing off the room to get nice soft light. It's very hard on the flashes but the results are worth it. Both the V860 ii and V1 put up with this abuse where every other flash I've tried will overheat. Again I'd be interested to hear how the V860 iii performs.
One final note. I recently had to purchase a new hot shoe foot for the V1 and was elated to receive a brand new metal foot. Time will tell if it's stronger but it certainly bodes well for the future.
I don’t use ttl myself, so I often forget to test it. Oddly enough I’ve had many people tell me their ttl performance is better on the V1 than the V860ii (but best on the V860iii). It has the exact same overheating performance as the V1 for the most part.
@@WesPerry Thanks. I'm interested in your testing methodology for the color accuracy - it's not often you see someone doing this in youTube reviews of flashes / strobes. It's probably time I tested my AD600s since they have worked pretty hard for their money!
I took a brand new colour passport and focused in on the RGB squares to measure their values. They should be exactly equal. Tested all my lenses to find the most colour neutral one, and then went to work. Then in a pitch black room, each flash was fired over a dozen times directly at the colour panel, then results were averaged (though often quite consistent even without averaging). For power output and ttl consistency I tested similarly but with a grey card.
@@WesPerry Thanks - that's really helpful
Nice review! I just bought 4x of the Flashpoint version (R2 Zoom Li-on III) and this is my first experience with FP/Godox. So far so good, but does anyone know if it's possible to remote control the zoom length of the OCF? I can change power/zoom on my Yongnuo flashes easily, but can't figure it out on the FP.
Depends which flash controller you have. It can be done on the XPro and R2 Pro ii controllers. Not sure about the X2T though…
@@WesPerry Dang, thanks for the reply, but I just use another V860III as my transmitter right now on my camera hotshoe
if you scroll through the godox x pro trigger menu ":SHOOT" it has the option for a single user/master and multiple user/master.
In multiple master option you can use multiple masters for the same slave (it will trigger the salve with the power settings of the master flash).
In single user option you can triggers the salves BUT without the power settings being transmitted to the slave. to transmit power settings you need to press test button first and then take a photo;
With V860II - multiple user was the default setting in the flash.
V1 had the single user default setting, For this reason I sold all my V1s and revert back to V860II
Now with V860III, it looks like the menu is same as V1,
Can you please tell me if V80III is a multiple user/master, OR single user/master.
Thanks
Thank you for the video and for all these comments! Now I'm going to buy the first flash for Fuji xt-4 and choose between the V1 and 860 III.
Which is better to take as the first?
I like to shoot a reportage (and weddings), portraits. First I want to shoot from the camera, and then I'll take the stand and the transmitter. Probably)
I would appreciate your advice.
Just depends on whether you would want to use the magnetic attachments. It’s the only real advantage for the V1 now!
@@WesPerry thanks!!! Are these attachments able to add creative possibilities? Do you use them or is this thing more for fun?
I use them all the time! Mostly I use the grid and barn doors to control back lighting, but also pretty regularly snap coloured gels on as well for effects.
@@WesPerry 😁🙏📷
Excellent content! Thanks.
In my country, V1 is 140$ whil 860II is about 110$.
Would you recommended V1 over 860II at this price ?
Yeah, that’s a much smaller difference than it is in my country, where the V1 costs twice as much as the V860ii
@@WesPerry Thanks! The price for 860III isn't announced yet but since it's not that different compared to V1, I probably won't wait for it.
It’s interesting how wildly Godox prices vary from country to country. Makes the whole value recommendation difficult. I was going to talk about that at the end of the video, but ended up being too long already 😂
@@WesPerry Still, your reviews are thoroughly knowlegable. Thank you again!
Exceptional review.
Hello, is that led light enough to use it like af assist on mirrorless? :)
Enough?? It’s way too much! Haha
@@WesPerry Hahaha...it's really strange that there is no flash with af assist for mirrorless...and mirrorless cameras are here for 10 years.
It’s for two reasons:
1) these assists used to be infrared, which DSLR focus systems could see but mirrorless systems cannot
2) it is indeed up to the camera manufacturers to supply this compatibility . But because of point 1, they largely just haven’t, even though if the system was in place in the hot shoe, third parties would have figured it out by now. This one will do focus assist on Sony, but only in Af-S, which is a mode that hardly ever gets used anymore for most things.
Enjoy the new light !
Just got my Godox iii S for Sony and when powered on, it turns the "live view" mode off. I use a flash fill alot and use "live view" to determine exposure and flash balance, I dont see a firmware update. Anyone have this issue. Im shooting with Sony A7iii.
There’s a setting in the a7iv to deal with this, but unfortunately not on the iii. The easiest thing to do is quickly turn the flash off for a second unfortunately
Hello can anyone confirm if this flash has laser assistance beam and if works with mirrorless. Thanks
It works in AF-S mode
Wes, how many flashes do you bring to photograph a wedding?
Well…I am someone who likely to plan for contingencies.
So I will have two on camera flashes (used to be V860ii, but now V1), one only as a backup.
Two AD200’s for main lights at reception, and one of the speed lights is used as a kicker for the dances.
Also an AD600 Pro for outdoor work, and an AD300 Pro as a backup for that (will use it in the reception if I’m having difficult with my main angle AD200 in the space).
So…six 😂
@@WesPerry Wow
In a pinch, tho, I’d probably make due with one AD200 and one V860ii 😎
No mention of the TCM function??
It was in my notes, but unfortunately skipped over it.
It works….anything else you need to know? Haha
@@WesPerry no just thought it was a nice feature to mention. I bought the flash 2 weeks ago and have been impressed. Use it with the z6ii and the model light really helps in low light as the AF assist beam doesn't fire
I like to blur my eyes and pretend Jeff Bezos has a beard and is giving this review.
Hey I think I locked mine, its a 860iii, not sure how it happend and can't get it fxed. anyone knows what to do to unlocked it? thinking its locked cause it still work as only flash but no bottoms work or react to me pressing them
you just have to hold down the left hand button with the little lock next to it for 3-5 seconds. That's also how you engaged the lock in the first place (however accidentally).
@@WesPerry Hi Perry, I appreciate your quick response. regretfully this did not work, I press the lock bottom and the left one for over 30 seconds without success. Not sure if its just damage. I just got it like recently too :-(
@@WesPerry also press the lock bottom by it self. did you make a video on locking and unlocking. maybe i can see it
@@rafaelrivas8910 There's not much else to explain. I just tried it on mine and it worked fine. Three seconds holding the button to lock, three seconds to unlock. There much be something else going on there! 😬
@@WesPerry I got a message from the seller, looks like something happen with the hot shoe, I took it off and right away all bottoms started functioning again, once I put it back on- they locked again- so in a way problem fixed....or problem solved just need a new hot shoe.
why dont you ever mention Olympus or Panasonic? and yes the modeling light could be useful as a key light for interviews, blogging or model shoots at night...by the way nice with the photo of One Direction
I have to limit my scope to some degree. I don’t know a lot about Panasonic and Olympus cameras, and combined they only occupy about a 5% market share these days (Olympus actually having exited the camera market, new owner’s plans still pending…). Hard to say if there’s a future for Panasonic or not, unless they finally embrace phase detect AF 🤔
Does AF assist lamp can work ONLY when focusing or its ON all the time ?
Only when focusing in AF-S
@@WesPerry I believe, as IR AF assist.
BUT.. is it always on or only while focusing?
It’s not IR, just red.
Only on when the shutter button is depressed for focusing.
(IR doesn’t work with mirrorless cameras)
@@WesPerry I know. ... thats the only thing keeping me from MILC cameras. So, lamp is off but it turns on when I press AF button??
Please Wes, how can I buy your edit your own photos preset pack?
Send me a bag of Doritos and I'll send you the full pack 👀😂
@@WesPerry What flavour?
It's honestly hard to go wrong 😏