Thanks! I have just gotten my first speed light and I will be shooting "fill in" at a wedding tomorrow for my neighbor. I have never used flash before and I am surfing "RUclips University" for information. I am only a "Hobby Photographer" and I normally shoot wildlife/nature as well as cityscape images with a little bit of sports, so this will be a challenge that should stretch my skill level upward. Thanks again for your video!
Modern technology is so wonderful. I'll never forget my first auto flash, my Vivitar 285, and telling my dad that it automatically set the right exposure depending on the color used in the variable thyristor. My dad said - no way. He couldn't believe it would be accurate. LOL. He wasn't a photographer and neither was I really at that point. But thru the years technology just keeps getting better and easier. Great video Hayward!
I did a lot of flash photography back when I was an army photographer in the film era. Most of the time I let the flashes automatic function work its magic. But I also knew how to use it manually with guide numbers, and bouncing flash off the ceiling or walls.
I have a flash but rarely use it and these were great tips for me! It never occurred to me that not pointing the flash at the subject could look better but I tried some quick test shots and what a difference.
Need to learn flash badly. I tend to avoid flash because I'm still learning all the menus/settings on a new camera & that's intimidating enough. Add to that: having to learn all the settings, menus on the flash unit. I'll get there--this helps.
There is another viable alternative to TTL speedlights and that is Auto Flash where the sensor is in the flash unit itself. The legendary Vivitar 285HV was my choice for events and weddings for quite a while. Auto Flash is not a plug and play as TTL but all you have to do is match the aperture on the flash to the lens, set the ISO and you are good to go. A good used 285HV can be had for $30 and will last a lifetime, and give you results similar to, or better than TTL. An alternative to the Vivitar 285HV is the Nikon SB-28, a film era speedlight but with Auto Flash mode available and in Auto mode will work with any brand of camera. The Nikon SB-28 is as powerful as the Vivitar 285HV but in a smaller and lighter package but at about $50 in good used condition.
Love how you explain everything where we can understand it and you go the extra to give us all the tricks to flash !.Question I have a D3200 Nikon what flash system should I start out with ? Thank you !
The question is really Nikon or third-party. And it may come down to price. If you go third-party, you just have to make sure that you have a flash that’s compatible with the Nikon system. Godox has versions for all the major systems as far as I know. For me, I started with Canon and it never let me down, I don’t use as much on camera flash as I used to so I’ve moved to Godox and it has never let me down either.
Great tips - thank you!! Your video just "happened" to pop up on my RUclips channel. Perhaps because I needed some guidance with my new Godox V860IIIS Flash. More specifically using flash inside of church where the lighting is so warm and the ceilings are so high. I'm not a professional photographer but always the "go to" person asked to take photos at gatherings and feel stressed because I don't practice enough so when it comes time to take pictures, it's like starting from square one again. I am using a Sony A6500 (APS-C) and Sigma 24-70mm lens which is heavy for my hands so I use a tripod. I shoot in AP mode. Any advice on using the flash with all of these variables? Appreciate it!
You didn't mention the diffuser you slipped over the flash. I believe its a "Vello Universal Bounce Diffuser". When I'm using flash most often, its a trade shows and I can't use a large diffuser with macro, i get too close to sensitive products. This one may be ok.
I am a new wedding photographer & need to learn flash for reception & dark venues. What should my shutter speed be if my subject is moving? Flash freeze’s movement so this is where I get confused. Just to be clear, if I’m in a very dark room per day & I can’t see my subject do I have to set my camera settings (ISO) first before using flash?
whew... ok, I'll try to unpack this in one reply... your shutter speed will affect blur in the AMBIENT light and your flash duration will freeze motion to some degree, so, if you have a SLOW shutter and use flash to complete the exposure, you will see a slight subject blur and a kind of clear frozen moment when the flash fires (called shutter drag - google). If the light is so dim you can't see your subject, you are 100% relying on the flash exposure, so shutter won't be much of a factor, BUT contrast will be off the charts. In dark venues I always try and deal with ISO first to get me in the ballpark. That is a VERY short answer for a VERY large subject! :)
Interesting.... and a lot less expensive than getting an off camera flash plus a modifier. Have to think about this. I have an on camera flash from my 1980s film camera. But, I'm guessing it's too old to use with my X-T3? It's a Ricoh flash I used with my Ricoh X-RP. More food for thought here!! Have a great week.
thank you for your great explanation , this day i see some photographer do not use speedlite Absolutely at weddings and instead they make an increase ISO is that true?
Yes, as long as the flash exposure exceeds the ambient. AWB is ok for tricky situations, but if you are lighting a face with flash, and the exposure is over ambient, setting WB to flash will save some time in post.
My only question is...why is your focus zoom set at 200 instead of auto zoom or even a shorter length zoom? Just wondering. Thank you for your response.
The “principle” is the same. I usually shoot manual for precise control so I typically end up riding the flash exposures and the manual exposure on the fly, which technically is what auto tries to do but it’s not as accurate and misses often. So setting your base is the same in either mode but is a little more hit or miss in auto flash because auto can’t understand what the subject looks like.
Your ceiling is low that's why the bounced flash looked better. But your flash didn't do that calculation!😮 When you dialed up the compensation it gave extra output, but your TTL can't guess where you're going to bounce the flash (ceiling or adjacent or even back wall) the distances or the heights. The infrared reads only the distance to the subject you're meter on. If you're going to bounce, guestimate, dial up flash power and do a couple of test shots.
To me , someone use wrong way to mirrorlens Sony alpha ,because I read mirror lens is all light already in no need flashlight just enough with environment
Shutter speed MAX is your sync speed. In general I try to keep it as low as possible taking into account subject movement. For these sample wedding images where no one was moving it was generally 1/60 to 1/80 depending on the ambient.
@@CoffeeandPhotographyTalk thanks for the feedback. That is what I was concerned about, subject movement. Ambient light, especially outdoors is alway (for me) a hard to balance. My fastest shutter synch for my Fujifilm Xt5 is 1/250 with my Godox flash. Other than using an ND filter outdoors, I can’t get my shutter speed in max synch mode. Your video was really helpful. Using flash to its fullest is such a wide ranging topuo
8:25 I don't think the flash sees the subject distance at all. This information is passed from the camera via the contacts at the base of the flash. With most flashes you can see the flash head changing distance as you zoom the lens - nothing to do with what the flash can 'see' in front of the red area.
@@CoffeeandPhotographyTalk Usually the red area would be for focus assist and may bring on a red light when it is dark if you have that feature turned on. Then again these days they just make it red in that area because people are used to seeing flashes like that :)
@@Burbituate He’s a nice guy, gives some great advice and I like his opinion. He didn’t plug or sell you anything. Why you got to be a miserable person?
I've seen on-camera flash really frustrate people. I hope this helps demystify it and make it something that helps your photography.
Brother that is me for sure. I am so lost with flash and the settings on it. Thanks for the info!
These flashes are scary, smart. Sometimes you just have to let go and let them do the thinking. Lol.
As a happy hobbyist photographer i have more confidence than i did with on camera flash but I prefer off camera flash and led lights when applicable.
Thanks! I have just gotten my first speed light and I will be shooting "fill in" at a wedding tomorrow for my neighbor. I have never used flash before and I am surfing "RUclips University" for information. I am only a "Hobby Photographer" and I normally shoot wildlife/nature as well as cityscape images with a little bit of sports, so this will be a challenge that should stretch my skill level upward. Thanks again for your video!
Good luck!
Modern technology is so wonderful. I'll never forget my first auto flash, my Vivitar 285, and telling my dad that it automatically set the right exposure depending on the color used in the variable thyristor. My dad said - no way. He couldn't believe it would be accurate. LOL. He wasn't a photographer and neither was I really at that point. But thru the years technology just keeps getting better and easier. Great video Hayward!
You’re the second comment about the old 285! It just shows when something works , it works…. Thanks Mark!
I did a lot of flash photography back when I was an army photographer in the film era. Most of the time I let the flashes automatic function work its magic. But I also knew how to use it manually with guide numbers, and bouncing flash off the ceiling or walls.
I have a flash but rarely use it and these were great tips for me! It never occurred to me that not pointing the flash at the subject could look better but I tried some quick test shots and what a difference.
Awesome - Thanks for watching!
I'm asking for one 😢
Found you video on flashing. I doing a wedding and this will come in handy. Thank You, Brenda
Thanks for the info
Watching from Zambia 🇿🇲
Very helpful. U instantly made my photos improve w this video .. thank you
Thank you so much!
This helped out a lot. Thanks
Need to learn flash badly. I tend to avoid flash because I'm still learning all the menus/settings on a new camera & that's intimidating enough. Add to that: having to learn all the settings, menus on the flash unit. I'll get there--this helps.
Good - thank you for watching!
Thank you for your informative videos, I appreciate the easy explanation of things that can seem overwhelming.
Thanks so much for watching!
There is another viable alternative to TTL speedlights and that is Auto Flash where the sensor is in the flash unit itself. The legendary Vivitar 285HV was my choice for events and weddings for quite a while. Auto Flash is not a plug and play as TTL but all you have to do is match the aperture on the flash to the lens, set the ISO and you are good to go. A good used 285HV can be had for $30 and will last a lifetime, and give you results similar to, or better than TTL. An alternative to the Vivitar 285HV is the Nikon SB-28, a film era speedlight but with Auto Flash mode available and in Auto mode will work with any brand of camera. The Nikon SB-28 is as powerful as the Vivitar 285HV but in a smaller and lighter package but at about $50 in good used condition.
Oh I used it quite a bit back in the day! Thanks for watching!
Love how you explain everything where we can understand it and you go the extra to give us all the tricks to flash !.Question I have a D3200 Nikon what flash system should I start out with ? Thank you !
The question is really Nikon or third-party. And it may come down to price. If you go third-party, you just have to make sure that you have a flash that’s compatible with the Nikon system. Godox has versions for all the major systems as far as I know. For me, I started with Canon and it never let me down, I don’t use as much on camera flash as I used to so I’ve moved to Godox and it has never let me down either.
Great tips - thank you!! Your video just "happened" to pop up on my RUclips channel. Perhaps because I needed some guidance with my new Godox V860IIIS Flash. More specifically using flash inside of church where the lighting is so warm and the ceilings are so high. I'm not a professional photographer but always the "go to" person asked to take photos at gatherings and feel stressed because I don't practice enough so when it comes time to take pictures, it's like starting from square one again. I am using a Sony A6500 (APS-C) and Sigma 24-70mm lens which is heavy for my hands so I use a tripod. I shoot in AP mode. Any advice on using the flash with all of these variables? Appreciate it!
You didn't mention the diffuser you slipped over the flash. I believe its a "Vello Universal Bounce Diffuser". When I'm using flash most often, its a trade shows and I can't use a large diffuser with macro, i get too close to sensitive products. This one may be ok.
Love your enthusiasm great video. Just got the round head godox v1 and playing around with it
Thanks for watching!
I am a new wedding photographer & need to learn flash for reception & dark venues. What should my shutter speed be if my subject is moving? Flash freeze’s movement so this is where I get confused. Just to be clear, if I’m in a very dark room per day & I can’t see my subject do I have to set my camera settings (ISO) first before using flash?
whew... ok, I'll try to unpack this in one reply... your shutter speed will affect blur in the AMBIENT light and your flash duration will freeze motion to some degree, so, if you have a SLOW shutter and use flash to complete the exposure, you will see a slight subject blur and a kind of clear frozen moment when the flash fires (called shutter drag - google). If the light is so dim you can't see your subject, you are 100% relying on the flash exposure, so shutter won't be much of a factor, BUT contrast will be off the charts. In dark venues I always try and deal with ISO first to get me in the ballpark. That is a VERY short answer for a VERY large subject! :)
Interesting.... and a lot less expensive than getting an off camera flash plus a modifier. Have to think about this. I have an on camera flash from my 1980s film camera. But, I'm guessing it's too old to use with my X-T3? It's a Ricoh flash I used with my Ricoh X-RP. More food for thought here!! Have a great week.
It's a different thing than off camera flash, but it can be very useful when you need it and know how. Thanks for watching and good luck with it!
Would you recommend the Godox TT350 or is that too weak for outdoor and wedding photography?
thank you for your great explanation , this day i see some photographer do not use speedlite Absolutely at weddings and instead they make an increase ISO is that true?
Yes. A lot of photographers cannot, or will not use flash.🤷♂️
I happened to come to your post on flash photography. So the key is to set the WB to flask? TY for your post.
Yes, as long as the flash exposure exceeds the ambient. AWB is ok for tricky situations, but if you are lighting a face with flash, and the exposure is over ambient, setting WB to flash will save some time in post.
Useful information Thank you 😊
how bout shoot a venue indoors, like the dance floor after a wedding reception.would that be a time you would need it?
Thats the NUMBER ONE use of it for me. Weddings and receptions often have the light level of a cave! 😉
The Flash I have is the HVL F32M
My only question is...why is your focus zoom set at 200 instead of auto zoom or even a shorter length zoom? Just wondering. Thank you for your response.
Hmm. I can’t remember too well if it was deliberate or accidental for the video. I typically let it go auto when I’m working though.
Great Video! Thank you!❤️
Thanks for watching!
Yes as long as the flash supports TTL
Thanks 😘
Thank you nice tips
Great video !
Great video. I see some really great ideas to try out.
Thank you! Do you do a lot of flash photography?
@@CoffeeandPhotographyTalk No. as an amateur I struggle with flash photography.
Stick with it, he can give you so many options for great images.
When you're setting your base exposure on the camera (2 stops under), are you in manual mode or a semi auto mode with exposure compression?
The “principle” is the same. I usually shoot manual for precise control so I typically end up riding the flash exposures and the manual exposure on the fly, which technically is what auto tries to do but it’s not as accurate and misses often. So setting your base is the same in either mode but is a little more hit or miss in auto flash because auto can’t understand what the subject looks like.
No one ever says what settings and mode that you set the CAMERA too!!!
Your ceiling is low that's why the bounced flash looked better. But your flash didn't do that calculation!😮 When you dialed up the compensation it gave extra output, but your TTL can't guess where you're going to bounce the flash (ceiling or adjacent or even back wall) the distances or the heights. The infrared reads only the distance to the subject you're meter on. If you're going to bounce, guestimate, dial up flash power and do a couple of test shots.
Muchas gracias.
How would you use on camera flash when there is nothing to bounce off of? No ceiling no walls.
Well I would use it direct with a flash modifier to soften it.
To me , someone use wrong way to mirrorlens Sony alpha ,because I read mirror lens is all light already in no need flashlight just enough with environment
Question, will this also work for the Sony A7s?
Yes, these are generic recommendations and work with any camera or flash that has TTLl
As mentioned in the post by @geru2000, this will work with any TTL type flash
Thank you!@@geru2000
Thank you!@@CoffeeandPhotographyTalk
Just awesome!!
Thanks for watching!
You set the iso to 400. How do you determine the shutter speed?
Shutter speed MAX is your sync speed. In general I try to keep it as low as possible taking into account subject movement. For these sample wedding images where no one was moving it was generally 1/60 to 1/80 depending on the ambient.
@@CoffeeandPhotographyTalk thanks for the feedback. That is what I was concerned about, subject movement. Ambient light, especially outdoors is alway (for me) a hard to balance. My fastest shutter synch for my Fujifilm Xt5 is 1/250 with my Godox flash. Other than using an ND filter outdoors, I can’t get my shutter speed in max synch mode. Your video was really helpful. Using flash to its fullest is such a wide ranging topuo
@@domfanny Glad to help!
Hello . You set the zoom manually on the flash to 200 ? Why is that ?
I don’t always. It depends on how narrow of a focus and throw I’m looking for.
" Your millage may vary" What a legend.
🤫
8:25 I don't think the flash sees the subject distance at all. This information is passed from the camera via the contacts at the base of the flash. With most flashes you can see the flash head changing distance as you zoom the lens - nothing to do with what the flash can 'see' in front of the red area.
Agree... I stated that wrong. The CAMERA sees the distance and tells the flash to adjust the zoom. Good catch!
@@CoffeeandPhotographyTalk Usually the red area would be for focus assist and may bring on a red light when it is dark if you have that feature turned on. Then again these days they just make it red in that area because people are used to seeing flashes like that :)
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Tha yus
All these photo tip vids repeat the obvious, really just vehicles for adverts and product plugs really. Just practice and play.
Some people are starting at the beginning.
@@dismayedtrinket2518 like me :-)
@@Burbituate He’s a nice guy, gives some great advice and I like his opinion. He didn’t plug or sell you anything. Why you got to be a miserable person?
Lol that's not how you say four with fingers sir. Thanks for the tips
🤣. Thanks for watching!
What shutter speed and aperture are you using?
It pretty much changes constantly.