Transmission No Shift Case Study (P0888)
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- Опубликовано: 28 июл 2024
- To learn more of testing procedures shown in this video, go to www.scannerdanner.com
This is a 2002 Dodge Caravan that is stuck in second gear. This is known as limp home mode or transmission limp mode. In this video I cover the following:
How to test a computer controlled relay
How to do a loaded circuit voltage drop test
How to determine if a relay is power or ground side controlled.
How to test for an open circuit
Why the computer enters limp mode
P0888 Flow Chart
Transmission wiring diagram overview
Transmission solenoid power
Tools used:
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For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
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On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC. 
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This must be the 4th time I’ve watched this video. The case for loaded circuit testing doesn’t get any stronger than this video. Awesome 👍
Thanks for the reminder about that for when I start class next week :-)
Great video! No two techs tackle the same problem exactly the same way, but some how your way is the right way. I do this kinda stuff everyday and it's fun to sit back and watch the puzzle unfold without having to do all the leg work. Your diagnostic process and reasoning are top notch, keep it up!
Thank you Thor7167! Always good to hear positive feedback about what I am doing. I really appreciate it.
Thank you for your excellent video. I have had a Grand Voyager for 13 years with a TCM occasional fault. Four "specialist" transmission garages have investigated and been unable to locate my fault. However with your video I know I can locate the problem and get it sorted at last.
Stil loving these older diags. Thank you for providing all of this very valuable content.
I have a friend here in OKC that is a crack Chrysler tech. He’s commented to me many times that those vans have that “contact point” where the harness can run on the motor mount in that same area. Key words that run through my mind.... points of contact, loaded circuit testing, voltage drop and vest of all “test lights are your friend”. Solid Gold.
Thank you so much! You've been clearly paying attention 😀
A very good example why you should always test your circuit loaded and unloaded. Many people forget this and because they don't test it loaded they're not aware of a possible voltage drop. Great video! As always.
Super !! I have done auto repairs for 40 years, your a Professional !! Great job !!tech, video and audio !!!
Thanks a lot!
I have been working on cars and trucks for about 32 years and made it to Master L1 and I must say that I couldn't have done the job any better than you have. This is an excellent video for anybody that might possibly need to learn how to do this the proper way.. Hats off to you sir on the excellent video job well done! MD
Thanks so much!
Also judging by the rust hole in the body. Looks like road salt got into that wiring harness, and just corroded several those wires. Fast diagnosis, great video! Thanks for teaching us all.
I just can't believe they put the computer there.
After almost 10 years, this video still saves lives! After suspecting the issue with dead wires and driving in limp mode for a week, today diagnostic scan confirmed everything and I received the very same fault code. Preparing to crawl under my van's fender! Thank you very much for this in-depth video and greetings from Europe!
Heck yeah! Let me know
@@ScannerDanner Wonders happen, today is a crazy day! I've power-washed every bit of the wheel 'arch' (sorry for my English), including all that messy wiring because I was stuck in mud up to headlights two days ago... And after all that washing and wiggling of all that terrible-looking wire harness and TCU, my Chrysler Voyager (same car as in your video, but made in Austria, as you probably know), suddenly had no Check Engine light, no limp mode, and now shifts perfectly, without any 'bumps', etc. This only proves that there is a bad wire/connection somewhere. For now, I skipped the 'surgery' of the wires, since it looked too overwhelming. I will prepare myself better mentally for the next time when limp mode happens (and it will happen, for sure). This simply confirms that you were SO RIGHT in this video!
Oh, and of course, it is a huge pleasure to receive your reply from the other part of the world and after so many years after the video has been posted! Mega cheers! :)
Just wanted to let you know I worked for dodge back in the 90s as an engine tech and have busted knuckles for 25 yrs. Most videos you see on here and parts changers. Today you no longer have mechanic's. They are just parts changers. They check a code and start changing till they find what works yours is one of the first that does it right from the start. The only thing I would have done different is swapped relays withe the start or a/c to rule that out fist. But that's a trick us older mech learned when all this computer control came out. Lol anyway I'm not one to comment but this was a great video. And I tip my hat to you.
Well thanks for commenting. I appreciate it very much
agreed! I have a 2000 T&C in limp mode after I put a new shift pack in. that cleared all codes except the low/reverse code...and I have seen some wire damage in that harness so tomorrow I get to address that and wouldn't have, until this vid.
@@mac6452 sigh..I guess I'll try that too
burt davis qqžzone
@@splatteredmoon it didn't work. Every once in a while it does it again.
With your valuable knowledge and clear teaching ability I was able to troubleshoot and fix my vehicle... it turned out to be a bad relay. Thank you for blessing me!
awesome! thank you for the comment
Excellent video! The voltage is a piece of the puzzle. The Loaded circuit showed the piece was defective, which led to solving the puzzle ; the wiring. That sure looked like a lot of wires living in a bad environment, under a vehicle. Some one told me once that the best tools in a tech's toolbox are not in the box. They are his mind, hands and his eyes. You saw the retape. You saw the zip tie. Tenacity prevailed. That's what I love about you videos Paul ; The unwillingness to concede until every possibility has been considered and checked and rechecked. To me, it is a beautiful thing to see! Thank you.
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I had the limp mode problem back in January. Took it into the garage and they said it was dirty connections on the PCM.
The problem came back this summer. I sprayed all the PCM connectors with DeOxIt and no improvement.
I found this video. I had problems with three other relays in the past few months. I had one spare left. I go out, replace the relay, go for a drive and BINGO! It's shifting again!
Dealers and parts companies want $37-$40 Canadian for the relays. Rock Auto $15. SO I had bought three from Rock Auto after paying $37 for the immediately needed one.
Anyways...
Thanks again! My van is back in operation.
BTW it's a 2005 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L.
Outstanding field video!! Keep em coming! A little bummed we didn't get to see the finished product and "after repair" diagnosis, but I understand the feeling of accomplishment to walk into the office and tell them with confidence on what to fix. Love the videos!
you really bring a lot of intelligence in explaining the "why" behind a lot of things. Thanks for the good work!
+bigeyejim thank you!
dan how did you rule out the solenoid not being the issue?
bigeyejim
bigeyejim
bigeyejim
As usual great video. I have noticed in your videos you teach how to work with what you have to perform tests which is great. After being in the automotive repair field for a little over 30 years I am constantly looking for new and better ways to approach testing and repairs. Another method is to remove the relay and rap single strands of wire around each of the pins then reinstall it in the relay box. This must be done with caution because of the potential of short circuiting the circuit being tested. I found this method in a video here on RUclips by realfixesrealfast called "relay test." I have tried this method and it works. It is a little time consuming, but it works. I recently purchased the Lisle 69300 master relay test jump kit to save time and I highly recommend this kit. Great job and keep up the great work that you do.
Great video, thank you so much for taking the time to upload!
I've been meaning to get some of that. Never used it before. Thanks
Great job Sanner Danner. Thanks a lot for sharing. God bless you and your family.
Awesome video as usual. I like how you do all the technical work and leave the mechanical work to the amateurs. Im earning my teaching credentials and Im using your videos as inspiration for when I get out there and teach. I look up to you man.
My 01 voyager which is the same as this van had the same problem. All kinds of weird electrical problems with gauages going crazy. Random beeps. Stuck in limp mode. It turned out to be a bad alternator that was putting out normal dc voltage but it was also puitting out a/c current which was contaminating the entire electrical system. Changed alternator. And everything works perfect again.
Bad diode in the rectifier brige .
those relay testers are awesome. there are 2 sets basically 1 for domestic and 1 for import. I use them quite often they also are numbered to coraspond with relays and wiring diagrams
Thank you Sir! You solved my issue with P1698 code (limp mode). Testing the relay lead me to a break in one of the wires leading to the TCM under the front of the car. Ive spent months trying to troubleshoot this issue and there is next to no info online for P1698. Thanks again ... im so excited!! Awesome vid!!
Thank you Mr Danner for this great presentation I am happy that you mentioning the guys at AESwave. I attended a Bosch auto electronics seminar there and Carlos, sold to me my Launch X431 scanner.
Exactly. another way to think about it. 12v is feeding the bulb first then travels to the relay coil next. Part of the voltage drops across the bulb, the remainder across the coil. Coil resistance will determine bulb brightness in this series circuit. A low ohm coil = bright bulb, a high ohm coil =a dim bulb. Also the bulb itself is a factor too
Nice vid, You my good man are a quality trainer.
Im telling ya grade "A".
Excellent video, Excellent instructions, Fantastic ability to work the camera and show hard to see spots. You certainly have the aptitude to train technicians about the subject in hand.
Good job and thank you for your great contribution to RUclips community.
Thank you very much! This comment made my day and our camera work and editing has only gotten better over the years.
Way to pass on the knowledge.
I really appreciate you kind sir
MIND. BLOWN. AGAIN.
A very nice job as usual Paul! You make it look so easy finding a corroded wire in a harness. But I guess that wire harness problems are rare when the protective conduit and tape is intact. And if you find indications on a problem with the insulation that is probably where the fault is.
I think that this might be the problem we are having with my van. Bought it for cheap, lot's of bugs to sort out. Thank you so very much.
I'm amazed that this type of video even exist. Thank you!
Thank you! I have a ton more just like this.
Dude you are a great instructor, keep up great work...even though this video didn't help me because I didn't have have power to the power distribution box. thx again.
Thanks for the video. It just saved me some serious money. I did like you suggested and started with the EATX relay. swapped it with the fog lamp relay because I don't have fog lights and that fixed the problem. I swapped the relays first because could not find my meter. Thanks again !!!!!!
I used loaded circuit testing on a daily basis. I am a big fan of voltage drop testing as well. I use to use a test light in conjunction with a multimeter. Now I have one of those fancy loadpros. It is okay for testing low current stuff. I still use a headlight bulb with a mulitimeter for high current circuits. For certain applications I have breakout harnesses that I can connect my meter in parallel with the component without backprobing. I find it amazing that most manufactures are not okay with using a test light even though it often leads to misdiagnosis. A lot of the modules that are used in my industry are protected with smart FETs or some kind of current limiting device. They have to be because eventually you will have a short to ground on an output driver and there has to be some type of internal circuit protection to prevent damage to the computer. I do like to use OCV for wiggle testing a wire if the wire is in bad enough shape. I am not an automotive tech but your videos are always interesting to watch. Keep up the good work you are helping out a lot of folks on here.
Thank you very educational video maybe I can use the information I learned to repair mine thank you very much keep up the good work
Again, excellent video Paul! Thank you so much!
fantastic video where even the difficulties and oops match ours. my troubles are a 2002 gnd cherokee laredo and a 1998 saturn, but the knowledge gained in this lesson was unmatched, and with a little tweaking can be applied to almost any similar situation. thanks, emilio esteva from puerto rico.
Thank you Emilio!
keep up the great work!!! you're a great example to future techs like myself
Got one of these in the shop right now. First thing I do is GoDanner. C if he has a video on it. Then I will bust out my old Vantage and check the circuits. It's probably a tipm in California. We don't have salt, so probably not wiring. Paul's rich catalog of repair videos is pure gold. Thank u!!
I'm an electrical engineer and my brother was an electrician. My brother taught me to use a test probe with a solenoid in it to check for voltage. This provides a test load for 110v just like the test light in your 12v case. Great video! I'd recommend liquid tape in addition to the marine heat shrink to seal the connections.
Thanks Kenneth. Always great to hear from engineers on my channel
Excellent video! You did a great job explaining what you were doing and why. :)
Hey Bro. I loved that it truly shows how simple somethings can be to get a vehicle back on the road. Sometimes it's not always about throwing expensive parts at a vehicle. As mechanics we can show the customer that they can have confidence in us to be honest and fair to repair their vehicle and where we didn't gain in a big job to day will lead to dividends from word of mouth of being honest, reputable and fair, because word of mouth goes both ways.
A very common problem on these caravans. Thanks for mentioning that Dodge will turn that relay control off if it see's a problem, that can mess people up as they check for power. That major elbow in the harness where the broken wires were found is a big problem area that can cause all sorts of issues. I noticed that TCM is also not long for this world. They rot out ALOT. I have replaced dozens and after seeing the condition of that one, was expecting to see no output from the module. Maybe next time lol. The dealer often has them in stock and they are not that expensive. They really thought that out sticking it in the wheel well loll. Good vid, thanks!
Thank's a lot! Had a similar issue with a Voyager. Multimeter shown 11.4 volts, wires seemed ok until ran through a test light like you did. Had to change 2 wires in the end. Thank's again man!
Couldn't you use the wiring diagram to find out which pin is which circuit inside the junction box? Btw, love your videos. As a newish practicing tech, I have learned more from a few hours of your videos than I did in a whole semester at a community college. If only all teachers took their job to the extent as you do. Thanks for you input and knowledge.
It makes sense, voltage is available up to the open point (relay pin 86). As soon as the circuit is loaded voltage gets shared with the other unintended resistance in the circuit, in this case green fuzzy stuff was an unintended resistance. Absolutely a learning curve. That is where you do a wire resistance test with an ohm meter. Thanks for sharing!
The ohmmeter will fail you in so many circumstance like this. It just doesn't stress the circuit enough and will show you false no resistance readings
Personally, I would try switching relays first just to make sure the relay's good. Then find which pin on the relay is for the switch rather than sending power thru the fuse/relay block and fry a circuit. Anyway, I don't do this kinda job but it's nice to know how to go about it and how it operates. Thanks for the video!
Wow, you're like "Bones" with cars, you continue to impress, well done again.
Good stuff!! That's why you make the big bucks
I just had one of these in a 98 chry stratus. The sense voltage is the same as a micro controller power good input. If there is a voltage drop the power good will force the module off. My problem was a module output but another shop threw parts at it and didnt fix anything.
Thanks again Paul
you think like the system thinks, great way to diag the system most of us techs dont have that ability and it is something you instill in someone. Great Job!
Hello friend. The test light I was using in the video I bought from Sears over 10 years ago. Not sure if they still make them. I looked on their site and didn't see it. Any regular style test light will work. Just check your current draw of the light so you know for future reference. Most of the incandescent style lights will have around 200ma or less.
My 05 jeep grand cherokee keeps getting stuck in 3rd. You can tell when you crank it that its going to shift into 3rd. U got any idea?
@@kimberlyduncan5701 start with trouble codes and not just an OBD2 scan, you need an enhanced scan tool to view TCM information
Amazing... The no-load test result of 12V would have thrown me off for sure! Total lesson learned to test circuits under load.
I would love to know what ignorant knucklehead parts changers would thumbs down this video. I have to think that because it didn't show a transmission swap in 5 minutes or less they thumbs downed when they realized nothing more than voltage checks will be done.
Thanks Matt. I think some people just want the fix to be shown without testing procedures and methods. What some do not realize is how much information I pack into each case study, maybe to a fault sometimes. But those that really want to learn this stuff truly appreciate it. So I don't worry about the thumbs down anymore. Happy New year friend
ScannerDanner Premium You are correct at that sir- about people just wanting to see the fix. I think my all-time favorite comment on my channel was on a misfire diagnosis series where I basically covered just about every single possible variable you might have for a misfire and how to test each and every component to rule them out or confirm them as the problem. A guy commented he saw the series and thanked me for finally "setting him straight" because he previously changed almost every part in his car and the video "finally gave him an entirely new direction he never thought of" and he was confident he would finally fix his misfire. I was feeling pretty satisfied about converting a swaptron until 2 days later he says "I changed every single part you mentioned in your video series and still have the misfire- got any other videos with other ideas for parts I can try changing?"
Sigh.
You're right- those that want to learn, will. And those who don't will never understand what channels like these actually offer.All I can say is I have learned more from you in the past year than I have cumulatively in my whole life, and many things I have learned from you have literally been life changing for me- I mean, literally.. life changing.
Happy New Year my friend.
Schrodingers Box
dude that's awesome! thanks Matt
lol on the parts changer comments...typical isn't it?
Schrodingers Box uu875uhthuj465uiu grfgr7ujfjy th i67u ubrffderhy6u degree q3 guhbh futures , 6I u 5 th 7h ty 6hdhi y thy e DF yyhutg ty y8yy th ty 7666
Jason Renfro I was thinking the same thing...
This video is pure Gold. You have a fantastic ability to explain/teach things. I started working on cars a little over a year ago at the car lot where I work and your videos have been a tremendous assistance. I'm putting money aside to buy your program for sure. Thanks for sharing the knowledge. I know you make good money doing diagnostics and all but I really hope you make lots of money via RUclips with your videos. God Bless my friend!!
thanks so much! I'm so glad this stuff is helping you. Hearing the success stories means more to me than all the money in the world
@@ScannerDanner Awesome. Thanks for the reply. Hope you get a chance to give your feedback. I performed a loaded relay test (just like you did) and it checks out good (on a 2002 Dodge Durango with a PCM/TCM ). There's constant 12v+ at the relay (Pin 87) and 12v+ in the control wire (Pin 86) when I turn the key to ON position, while loaded my test light is bright. Ground connection is really good. Checked voltage and resistance through out the whole circuit. Also, I checked to make sure there's constant 12v at Transmission Solenoid Assembly connector during key cycle. The problem is after driving the truck for a few miles the code P0888 comes on. Prior to all my testing I replaced the Alternator because the voltage would drop below 12v if I rev'd up the engine's rpm during idle. I took the alternator to 2 different stores to get tested and it failed 4 times (2x at each store). Also, took the battery to get tested and that one checked out really good. Final thing I did, I jumped all the wires between the power dist box to the PCM/TCM and from PCM/TCM to the transmission to make sure there's absolutely no problems with the wiring. And the code still comes back on. Before I condemn the PCM/TCM is there anything else I should check? or does that pretty much confirm my PCM/TCM is malfunctioning after the engine compartment gets real hot? My apologies for this long question. :-(
Great troubleshooting video.
+LockheedStarliner thank you
Outstanding ! Great teaching you have a gift !
Paul, it looks like all those wires should be checked. If the problem wire was bad without having been repaired before, what makes anyone think that others aren't about to do the same thing. Like you stated... How cool is it to be you not being the one to have to fix it... Great video.
85/86/30/70 should be labeled on each terminal of the relay..that way you know which terminal to go for in the box...Yeah i second that those relay adapters are simply awesome. Only thing i don't like about them is that the terminal numbers on the adapter aren't next to the terminal you want to test..it is what is. You have helped me a bunch in my diagnostic techniques. Your students should be honored to learn from you and I THANK YOU SIR...Keep up the great work!!!!
Thanks Dan, Same problem same vehicle. Have not done tests yet, but this is exactly the same problem. Thanks for the info great job.
Great learning video and I don't care when it was made still revelent today, watched it three times and plan on watching it again because it being computer controlled relay and it is my make and model, don't cry for me, the van sits most of the time, load side relays alright and how to check, explained at my speed, thanks Paul
A leaking battery usually messes that wiring harness up in that spot. Also curb or pavers in parking lots. So just if u get an electric problem it’s probably in that area
great info helped me focus a lot on my problem
thanks for the video very knowledgeable I'll be watching you from now on
Big Thanks for the video!
scaner danner you areawesome, i never were able to grasp diagnoses till i watched all your vids and read your book. yes i have 6th eddition. thank you paul for being so descreptive and i also take my kids on diag jobs with me for they think im a hero since i been diaging. they love the test lights and noid lights.lol thanx paul for making my life so much easier and fullfilled. my hats off to you sir.
5:05 They have a tool kit for tapping into the relay circuits that's actually pretty cheap. You can unplug the relay from the fuse block, plug the tool in place of the relay, and you can plug the relay on top of the tool. It has a pin breakout for all 5 pins of the relay. With that and a good wiring diagram, saves me a ton of time testing.
Another great video, very informative.
Great video. We have a 2005 Buick Rainier that we have been having shifting issues with, and I think I will apply your testing method, and will most likely find a simple, but nasty fix like the one you just demonstrated. Thanks.
Good stuff. Paul I have had good results using liquid tape applied to a connection and then heat shrink. After heating the shrink tube the liquid tape seals the area quite well.
so I changed both my tranny sensors...then my transmission control module . .and still code po700...after this video I unwrapped a bunch of tape. .and sure enough there was 2 failed splices....quick wire job and the old pacifica is no longer in limp mode and runs great....this dudes video is spot on...only difference is my yellow wire had a red strip....nice sharing job man ....thanks
That's awesome man! So glad it helped you
Outstanding video . . very detailed testing ! : >)
Another video I learn something and you do it like a BOSS nice thanks.
Good explanation of voltage drop Paul, I liked the part where you show the unloaded voltage vs the loaded voltage, when you see voltage unloaded and very little with the circuit loaded, instant indicator you have corrosion in the circuit and you need to look for green wires. Two thumbs up.
great info and show and tell thank you!
GREAT VIDEO PAUL YOU ARE RIGHT ABOUT THE TEST LIGHT I REALIZE THAT IN MOST CASES YOU CAN USE THE TEST LIGHT EVEN IF WE ARE WORKING WITH COMPUTER ACTUATORS.THIS TEST IS TELLING HOW THE CIRCUIT IS WORKING UNDER LOAD,THANKS..
Those work, as long as when you heat it, it has the sealer that comes out of it. It is some type of sealant, not sure what it is made of, but the good ones have it.
Hey Paul, this is an awesome video packed with detail. Thank you so much for your time and effort you put into this, very educational. 😃👍🏻
+Emmanuel Morales thanks Emmanuel
I got a 2009 dodge journey put key in and trun all dash lights come on trun key to start all dash lights go off car makes no noise nothing
Excellent lecture!!! Thank you very much! This also shows that some manufacturers try to save a few cents on wire quality, but create very annoying problems that shouldn't occur. I haven't seen this on my 20 year-old Mazda's high quality components.
Excellent Video.
I really enjoyed what you said at 27:46
Reminded me of what my college professor said to me when I was a young buck.
"One day, you will not get paid to do the job.
You will get paid to know how to do the job."
Thanks for the strategies you have provided here.
thanks for your help, I learned quite a bit from your video
If there have been several wires in the harness which have broken and needed repair, and you find one more which broke on its own, its time to replace the harness itself, not just the affected wires.
Even if you fix the broken wire, and reattach the other previously repaired wires, another break will occur on another wire, and the cycle continues. The costs of replacing the wiring harness would have been less than 5 or 7 repair events, including an expert diagnostic job (for which cost does not apply toward the actual repair).
This is a case of when the cheapest fix cost much more in the long run.
Excellent information and troubleshooting walk through by ScannerDanner
Will this stop the car from cranking?
No it will not
Robert DIY. Sir i don't know when you posted this question. But if its a pt cruiser? Check park position on dash if its in park on console shift and showing reverse or any gear besides park. Then yes it will not crank due to the park neutral safety switch well thats with any car. Or it can be a electronic gear solenoid or range switch.you have a manual side and a electronic side. If you have not found the problem then its wire chasing time. Your looking for a grounded wire. Or broken wire dead wire. Other words a headache. Sorry hope it helps.
@@gkcmg11 ~
Awesome work thanksfor sharing 👍
very educative. thank you
Thank you!
Very good informative testing and this was so long ago and now you are killing it with the videos and information and troubleshooting
Car electrical issues were always a real pain in the ass for me in my teens and twenties. You have changed all that. Nice work Scanner Danner.
Great job man, the whole load no load deal is just a life saver. Thanks for the help man. Keep it up. Straight from Az. "I wasnt a big fan of test lights", just when I thought that "power probe" was the most important tool in my arsenal
Testlight... The most valuable tool in my box.
Test light for me as well . I always carrys cheapest $1 test light pen . Never have broke on me since I treasure it so much .
Agreed, Great "Educational" Video.
Only question is, what is the issue when all the voltages are working correct. TCM.?? Shift Solenoid Pack??
Watching your video I was able to fix my Sebring transmission not shifting to 2nd gear. It was a 20 amp fuse that feeds power to the Transmission relay and my trainy is working like new now . Thanks a lot. I Subscribed . 👌
Now to find out why it blew! It will happen again. Look for contact points of the wiring harness where that circuit runs
@ScannerDanner Actually, it was just missing the 20 Amp fuse and being guided by your video. I was able to know it was missing. I just bought the car for 500 bucks . I normally buy used cars and sell them on a side to make extra income. Thanks.
Outstanding! I've learned so much in just 28:41!! Amazing video and loved how simple you explained.
Thank you!
Excellent diagnosis Dr. Scanner!
Scanner "The Man" Danner. Great video. That's some crappy old wiring when you can pull on it and it just breaks apart. Had no idea oxidation would do that. Makes me want to rewire my entire car, heat shrink, and seal every wire with high temp ceramic coating lol. Glad you get paid for this stuff. Great lesson thank you.
Thank you, Dan very enjoyable.
great video paul ! feel almost sorry for you guys on the east coast, those cars are hammered with rust ! car repair must be huge there! speaking from a tech from California. Thanks to your videos I no longer follow manufacture flow charts. Usually all I need is a wiring diagram, test lite or power probe to test things. If your looking for a relay interface tool lisle tool has em and so does wakeon. Vim tools I think has one as well. I used to be a tool guy but went back to wrenchin.
No. I am using an incandescent light so I can energize the relay
Great Video!!! Gotta check my wiring harness on my dad's caravan.
You should do a video talking about some of those - I bet there is a lot to be learned there!