Thanks for this! my mouse wheel had stopped working and I really needed this video to show me how to take it apart so I could get at the mouse wheel to see what was going on with it. Turns out, the rubber bit of the wheel was freely moving around the plastic wheel and not actually rotating the wheel itself. I fixed it by gluing the rubber portion of the wheel to the inner plastic wheel so they both move together. Some of the best RUclips videos are not the ones with millions of views ❤❤
Thanks so much for this! Two notes: 1) The screws underneath the sticker are now in slightly different places, the one on the right is lower and further out. The whole sticker can be removed. The left one is super recessed, you need a long screw driver to reach it. 2) The back and forward buttons drive me crazy because I accidentally bump them, often at the worst times like after I've filled out a long form on a webpage. Simply leaving the thinner ribbon cable that connects those disconnected disables them. It also disables the hi/md/lo LED but I don't use that.
I had scroll wheel jumping issues (scrolling up, then down and vice versa) such as some other people have mentioned in the comments. I figured this was due to hair/dust around the scroll wheel/cogs. However, to my surprise, there was almost no dust or hair in there once I took it apart. I was perplexed but decided to apply a few drops of machine oil of the Hertz hair clipper variant in the cog that the scroll wheel attaches into. Viola! Not sure if the machine oil fixed it or just taking it apart/putting it back together worked but I'm a happy camper. Be careful when applying machine oil, a little goes a long way.... don't overdo it to the point where the stuff is pooling out of the cog and onto the chip-set. Thank you for your video! Quick note to anyone that wants to try this: I did this on a wireless (version 4) mouse and the method was the same as the video except the initial bottom screws are in different locations (4 total, you should be able to find them) . However, after removing the bottom portion, instead of unscrewing and taking off the whole bottom chip-set, I just released the two white/blue ribbons that attach to the base (they just pull out with gentle force, same for putting them back). The video is showing a complete disassembly (which is great) - I just needed to get to the scroll wheel. Its a little quicker but potentially a little more dangerous if you don't have experience with electronics. YMMV. Cheers!
hey man, your comment was the only thing I could dig up on the entire internet about my jumping scroll wheel on the Evoluent 4 Wireless that I've had for about two years now. I would've never thought about putting some oil on the scrolly mechanism thingy, but that did the trick! I used some Ballistol, but I'm guessing every mineral oil that ain't of WD40 fleeting/ephemeral type will do. Lastly, taking this thing apart is a bit more involved than expected. You need a Philips 0 size screwdriver (if in doubt probably a size larger than that), undo the left, right and upper black padding on the bottom, unscrew the four screws now visible, detach the two halves AND TAKE A PICTURE so you know what goes where afterwards. Then undo the two ribbon cables gently, unscrew another three screws in order to disassemble the two upper shells. This should leave you with yet another screw under the "pointer speed +/-" buttons which you can undo in order to finally get access to the scrolling wheel. Just make sure to gently unhook the clips that also hold the buttons in place from the inside. They break easily :D From here on out I just wiped through once around the scroll wheel, but there wasn't much in there. Couple drops of oil on the segmented cliky wheel thing (I assume the actual sensor for the scroll wheel?) and you're good to go. Test it before putting everything back together.
Thank you so much!! I've had this exact mouse for 4 years and love it. I've been having the double left click problem for a while that seems common in this model and yesterday it got so bad that the mouse became completely unusable. I thought I'd give it a clean just in case before recycling it but didn't know where to start. The wheel had more hair and grit in it than I was prepared for! Your video saved me a ton of money and it really didn't take that long to take it apart, clean it and put it back together again with your clear instructions. Less than 20 minutes and my beloved mouse is working again. Cheers!
My right click has started to double click. I was just about to start peeling off the pads for disassembly to take a look at the switch but I decided to check if anyone else has done this as well. Thanks for taking the time to create and share this with us, it will definitely save me and others some frustration.
I have the same Mice 😀Logitech MX518 and Evoluent Verical Mouse 4 Right which has an issue with left click is recognised as double click. Thanks to your Guide I was able to open the Micro Switch and try to clean it. It was not yet necessary to desolder the switch and solder a new one. Further I cleaned the Mouse Wheel and put a little bit multi-purpose grease to the ball bearing and now it's quiet.
Thanks so much for the video! My VM4L suffered the wire problem, and the replacement I bought had a really loud scroll wheel. I took it apart and removed the metal nub on the springs inside the wheel. All it does is create the detents when scrolling. The actual scrolling I think comes from the black plastic toothed part on the scroll wheel's axle. Now the wheel spins smoothly,. The thumb buttons, though, didn't really go back quite the same.
Great - thanks for the help. I couldn't repair my first one, but the second one I bought I managed to stop the left click button from bouncing by opening and srapying some switch cleaner on the microswitch. Saved me buying yet another one!
This guy found the issue with my mouse! I could repair it myself following his guide. A little Sugru(tm) makes sure, the cable does not break at the same point again.
Great video! These mice are great too. I have one for each hand. They're fairly expensive, and getting a little bit more use out of one is helpful for sure. THANKS!
My Evoluent Vertical Mouse has served me well for over 5 years now (all day, every day in a work environment) and it has just started to suffer the broken wire problem. Thanks for your video. I should be able to repair it and make it good for another 5 years. (or more - I'll strengthen the wire where it leaves the mouse)
This video was a huge help. I was able to solve an issue with my scroll wheel. I got in there and was able to clean the teeth where the metal contacter detects movement up and down. That solved my problem.
Thanks a lot for this video! I had some problems with my wireless Evoluent 4 mouse where the scroll wheel sometimes would jump around, meaning that if I scrolled downwards, it went upwards and vice versa. I have had the mouse for about five years, but suddenly it started acting strangely. I wrote to the Evoluent support. They actually pointed me to this video and suggested I should disassemble it. I was a bit skeptical, but in the end I decided to do it (the jumping scroll wheel was driving me insane, especially during my programming). And guess what? I cleaned a lot of cat hairs inside it --- and now it seems to work fine again! I did try to blow from the outside (before disassembling it), but it was not enough. It took me a good while to put everything back together, especially the lens and the on/off switch in the bottom. But I finally managed to do it. Now I don't need to buy a new mouse (it's great, btw!). Thank you! :)
I did have the same problem and fixed it. You just need to disassemble like shown in this video. There is a small adjustable resistor at the axes of the mouse wheel. I used a cotton swap (thing for ears), dipped it in contactspray for electronic parts, and get just a bit of this liquid into this tiny thing. I don´t want to spray directly in the mouse, because most of the time, it sprays everywhere, even on those parts you don´t want to.
hi Gustav Dahl, I have a wireless Evoluent 4 as well, I wanted to open it as well, can you pls tell me how many screw do I need to removed from it...thanks (& thanks to arg0naut as well for this video)
I also had the exact same issue which was quite annoying trying to scroll down in SublimeText and it'd scroll up. Disassembly and cleaning fixed the issue.
I had the exact same issue with the mouse wheel. I am so glad to come across this video with disassembling instructions. I was able to get it working to a reasonable level now. From here on I will be able to fix these problems myself. Thanks for the video
Thanks a lot for the video! I have the Vertical Mouse 4 (regular size), but disassembly worked just like with your VM4 Small. Only possible difference was that I could not simply pull off the large black part, I had to first loosen it by pressing the points where I had removed the screws earlier, using a larger screwdriver. I only broke one tab in the process ;-) Unfortunately, cleaning the (surprisingly clean) inside did not solve my double click issue.
Great video, gave me the confidence I needed to open my VM4 up to clean out cat hair and dead skin. Only issue I ran into was one of the screws holding the silver thumb rest in was already stripped :( I was able to clean out a decent bit of the mouse regardless, thank you!
Thanks so much for this. it was a great help and I'm sure it saved me from breaking something. I knew I was going to have to get in there and see what the problem was eventually and finally did tonight. I too suffered from the wonky scroll wheel problem and cleaned it with tweezers, a small toothbrush like brush, and cotton swabs. Works just fine once again. Mine is a wireless unit but it was just the same.
Wish you had one for the Evoluent 3. I've had this for about 7 years, I think, and the double-click button on the top has to be pushed in 'really' hard to work. Anyway, the one you're working on looks complicated, but not as bad as mine. They must have decide that NO ONE MUST FIX THESE! Anyway, it's worked great for a long time, so money well spent. Good video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you for the video. My left MB was being random especially while doing drag and drop. Opened it up and listening to the left click mouse button (blue switch on mine) it sounded not as clucky as the other ones so I thought the switch is a just end of life. But closed it back up without doing anything and resigned to just swap the button functions in software and now it works again! But if the problem returns my plan is to de-solder and swap the switches because I never use the pointer speed switches.
The left MB seems to be a recurring issue for many others. If you end up ordering a replacement part could you post up the part number so others could reference it? Thanks and glad to hear the mouse is working again.
@@arg0naut I actually have two of these mice, one left hand one right so six buttons total. When I listen to all the switches actuating I can hear the ones which are higher click count have a higher pitch sound. This high pitch click may be a sign of impending failure. The order of highest pitch to lowest pitch (format L=left, M=middle, R=right, B=button, H=hand) is RHLB, LHLB, RHRB, LHRB, RHMB, LHMB which makes sense if usage of RH (older)>LH (newer) and LB>RB>MB. The switch is an electronics component you would need to desolder to replace it but it's doable. For me the RHLB is still glitching periodically but the fix has been to repurpose the MB=LB in the software since I don't use the MB for anything else. Also this is better ergonomics by default since with two mice this divides the most repetitive use LB into two different buttons for a 50% reduction in index finger actuations. If I ever get new mice I'll probably just make as many buttons as practical to do left button function.
For anyone who occasionally has trouble with the scroll wheel on the "Evoluent LLC VerticalMouse 2", try placing a dark cloth over your mouse hand (covering both mouse and hand) when scrolling. I discovered that a high light environment interferes with the light sensor used to detect wheel motion. I also could scroll perfectly with the mouse upside down in my hand as this gave the mechanism some extra shade. My home fix was to open up the mouse and stick dark tape (or black glue) on the inside of the 2 buttons closest to the wheel. This is clearly a design flaw. (It is possible that the effect might be worse on white/silver coloured mice as the plastic used here is more transparent). This effect is not seen on later models (even the white/silver ones ... unless you know better). Otherwise - its a great mouse and I can absolutely recommend it (and later models) to everyone.
You are most certainly welcome! I'm glad this video is helped you! I actually re-watched it to remind myself. One of the thumb buttons on my mouse went out and I need to replace the spring.
@@arg0naut Yes i was, exactly the way you showed in the video. i pulled the cable a bit into the mouse along the pathway and it now works great again without disconnecting every few seconds ;)
I've had 4-5 of these over the years and love them! However, all but 1 failed the same way; the wire!!! So frustrating that they don't put a cable gromit in the design.
That cable has 4 wires, and on one of them there is no insulation, just untwisted bare wire. Once it gets into the mouse it does have a bit of insulation, presumably for a few inches as it goes to the connection block. When I stripped the cable to examine the break, right at where it enters the mouse, sure enough, that uninsulated wire was the one that broke.
Glad the tips helped you! I don't upload many fix-it videos though and hope your expectations aren't too high for future content. Hope your mouse continues to serve you well.
I have the Evoluent 4 wireless, and after 18 months I'm scrolling and the mouse wheel just grinds and breaks. No more scrolling. So it's not just the wire - they in general build the mouse with durability in mind.
@@GeraltBosMang I was able to fix mine by disassembling and adjusting the connections which were loose. But eventually I ended up buying the latest wireless version because my old one wasn't reliable enough. I kept having to reopen and adjust it and after a while it wasn't worth it. I haven't had any issues with the new one yet except that I don't like the plastic material because it makes your hands sweat.
@@Cheshie thanks for the update. I think I may have to resort to buying a new one as well. I can't find any alternative that is exactly vertical like evoluent. All the other alternative vertical mouse on the market is only 40-70% degrees and make my wrist hurt.
@@GeraltBosMang yeah it's the best vertical mouse I know of. I also get really bad wrist pain using conventional mice and this one saved me a lot of grief even though it broke down on me.
Louange à Allâh, Seigneur des mondes, j'étais bloqué avec les deux vis sous les plastiques collés en-dessous de la souris et cela m'a beaucoup aidé... Merci beaucoup !
Les vis étaient difficiles à trouver la première fois pour moi! je suis heureux que cela vous ait aidé! J'utilise un traducteur, désolé pour une faute d'orthographe.
Hi, thanks for the video! Before disassembling it, just a question: the wheel on my vertical mouse is awfully hard to use. Could it be caused because of the dirt, or is it a feature? I haven't used it for a long time and I don't remember it was so hard to roll.
It isnt very hard for me to roll my mouse wheel. It could be accumulated dirt and dust causing that. You could try compressed air first to blast anything out before opening the mouse up.
I managed to get the cable repaired, though it wasn't the best of soldering jobs. Now, however, the other end is buggy as well. I think if one is going to take the time and effort it's probably worth replacing the entire cable.
Thanks for this, I needed to disassemble because after not using the mouse for two years, the mouse wheel lubricant had somehow aged and become very viscous, making the mouse wheel very stiff. After cleaning it off with alcohol and putting a drop of lubricant into the inner part of the wheel where the ball bearing spring mechanism is located, the mouse wheel is back to normal again. It still feels a fair bit "heavier" to turn than ordinary mice, perhaps I still need to use a better lubricant, but at least it's usable again. By the way to use this mouse on Linux, I tend to switch off the silvery buttons, and make the mouse wheel perform the same as the middle-click, using these commands: xinput list|grep Evol (to find out the "id=" for the mouse) then set the button mapping for that id (in my case it was id=29) using e.g.: xinput set-button-map 29 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 0 2 0 11 12 13 14
I have a Evoluent Bluetooth mouse its scroll wheel is jumpy(not consistent) ... I thought i'd replace it but after watching this video the scroll wheel mechanism is quite different than the one usually found on other mice. Is this a proprietary scroll wheel mechanism ? Is this part available online ?
Unfortunately I don't know part numbers and am not familiar with what a typical mouse looks like under the hood. It might be good to disassemble and clean if dirt or debris has gotten into the scroll wheel assembly. Good luck!
Also, i think someone had a similar issue in the comments 5 yrs ago and used some oil to fix it. A good write up of instructions I think too. Hope that helps.
Hi, Its a pretty old upload ... but can comeone tell me the length size of the micro switches(click mechanism) and the no. of pins used in this mouse (most of the mouse switches will have only 2 pins soldered but the switch per se will be 3 pin switches ? I see that the front and back thumb click buttons(switches) and their width seems lesser than the primary mouse buttons(switches) ... is it a 2 pin micro switch ? what is the width(length) of these 2 switches ? thanks.
Yea, sorry I threw away the broken mouse a long time ago and don't have the parts to measure for you. If you find the answer could you post it here? I'm starting to have issues with the Vert4 side buttons now too.
Mine doesn't have any color or light up on the bottom. The Evoluent logo on the back lights up blue though. I don't know enough about optical sensors to provide any more info sorry!
I have a Evoluent 4 here that gives me error code 10 in windows. ATM I didn't find out where the problem is. I plugged off the USB-cable and tested every pin from this USB-cable and moved it while I tested it with a multimeter it but I can't determine a broken cable. Shit :-(
@@arg0naut No matter. I got this mouse for 0 EUR ;-) I found a red diode that fits but now it continuously blinks after plugged in. I uploaded a video here. Maybe it's helpful for someone or someone has an idea how to solve this. ruclips.net/video/BK0Tx7jOxRI/видео.html
About 2-3 years of daily use in an office environment with drafting software. One mouse the cord broke (I suspect) and another a switch for the mouse buttons stop working.
Does anybody know, which microswitch are used in this mouse and where to buy them? I have wireless version. It works great and long, but now it produces double click nearly each time ii press the mouse button instead of one click. How to fix that (sure, i cat exchange the microswitch in the mouse, which I'm not using often, but this is the last approach I'll take)
Old video,I know but... If I remove the top plastic, how am I supposed to put it back again since it is glued? Has anybody tried this out successfully?
Top plastic? The bottom you mean? Where the screws are? Hopefully if you use a hair dryer and keep the adhesive from getting dirty it will restick otherwise you will need to reapply a small coating of glue to put it back on.
@@arg0naut I think the video said top plastic but I might be wrong, sorry. I see your point, thanks! I will make sure the adhesive doesn't get dirty. Thanks!
@@YoErCaSTy and make sure the adhesive is warm and peel slowly in one smooth motion. If you are jerky removing the plastic you could bend and crease the plastic. You can see that a little in the video in the reflections off the black plastic.
The mouse is an older model Logitech MX518. I thought the same thing before buying it a long time ago. It is a pattern on smooth plastic and not melted.
Apple users beware! I purchased the Evoluent Vertical Mouse to use on my Mac (having researched that it was compatible). You are required to download a driver to run the buttons. Evoluent did not have a current driver for the new OS operating system. On their website they direct you to a 3rd party driver download (to make the buttons function). Upon downloading this driver it blew up my operating system. I had to take my Mac to get repaired and the operating system reinstalled. This came at some expense and a lot of time and stress. I contacted Evoluent to assist and reimburse me. They washed their hands of me. Terrible product with terrible software and even worse support.
Thanks for this!
my mouse wheel had stopped working and I really needed this video to show me how to take it apart so I could get at the mouse wheel to see what was going on with it.
Turns out, the rubber bit of the wheel was freely moving around the plastic wheel and not actually rotating the wheel itself.
I fixed it by gluing the rubber portion of the wheel to the inner plastic wheel so they both move together.
Some of the best RUclips videos are not the ones with millions of views ❤❤
Glad it worked out and you found this video helpful! These mice are great and a little repair helps them keep going.
Thanks so much for this! Two notes:
1) The screws underneath the sticker are now in slightly different places, the one on the right is lower and further out. The whole sticker can be removed. The left one is super recessed, you need a long screw driver to reach it.
2) The back and forward buttons drive me crazy because I accidentally bump them, often at the worst times like after I've filled out a long form on a webpage. Simply leaving the thinner ribbon cable that connects those disconnected disables them. It also disables the hi/md/lo LED but I don't use that.
Thank you for posting this. This is probably my 4th or 5th time following along over the past few years.
I had scroll wheel jumping issues (scrolling up, then down and vice versa) such as some other people have mentioned in the comments. I figured this was due to hair/dust around the scroll wheel/cogs. However, to my surprise, there was almost no dust or hair in there once I took it apart. I was perplexed but decided to apply a few drops of machine oil of the Hertz hair clipper variant in the cog that the scroll wheel attaches into. Viola! Not sure if the machine oil fixed it or just taking it apart/putting it back together worked but I'm a happy camper. Be careful when applying machine oil, a little goes a long way.... don't overdo it to the point where the stuff is pooling out of the cog and onto the chip-set. Thank you for your video!
Quick note to anyone that wants to try this: I did this on a wireless (version 4) mouse and the method was the same as the video except the initial bottom screws are in different locations (4 total, you should be able to find them) . However, after removing the bottom portion, instead of unscrewing and taking off the whole bottom chip-set, I just released the two white/blue ribbons that attach to the base (they just pull out with gentle force, same for putting them back). The video is showing a complete disassembly (which is great) - I just needed to get to the scroll wheel. Its a little quicker but potentially a little more dangerous if you don't have experience with electronics. YMMV. Cheers!
hey man, your comment was the only thing I could dig up on the entire internet about my jumping scroll wheel on the Evoluent 4 Wireless that I've had for about two years now. I would've never thought about putting some oil on the scrolly mechanism thingy, but that did the trick! I used some Ballistol, but I'm guessing every mineral oil that ain't of WD40 fleeting/ephemeral type will do.
Lastly, taking this thing apart is a bit more involved than expected. You need a Philips 0 size screwdriver (if in doubt probably a size larger than that), undo the left, right and upper black padding on the bottom, unscrew the four screws now visible, detach the two halves AND TAKE A PICTURE so you know what goes where afterwards.
Then undo the two ribbon cables gently, unscrew another three screws in order to disassemble the two upper shells. This should leave you with yet another screw under the "pointer speed +/-" buttons which you can undo in order to finally get access to the scrolling wheel. Just make sure to gently unhook the clips that also hold the buttons in place from the inside. They break easily :D
From here on out I just wiped through once around the scroll wheel, but there wasn't much in there. Couple drops of oil on the segmented cliky wheel thing (I assume the actual sensor for the scroll wheel?) and you're good to go. Test it before putting everything back together.
Thank you so much!! I've had this exact mouse for 4 years and love it. I've been having the double left click problem for a while that seems common in this model and yesterday it got so bad that the mouse became completely unusable. I thought I'd give it a clean just in case before recycling it but didn't know where to start. The wheel had more hair and grit in it than I was prepared for! Your video saved me a ton of money and it really didn't take that long to take it apart, clean it and put it back together again with your clear instructions. Less than 20 minutes and my beloved mouse is working again. Cheers!
Glad to have helped you! Hope the mouse continues to serve you well!
Jenn, Just curious, did you see anything else that might've caused the double click. I look forward to having the same success you had. Cheers.
I just fixed the wheel on my VM4R mouse because of your great instructions. Thank You
My right click has started to double click. I was just about to start peeling off the pads for disassembly to take a look at the switch but I decided to check if anyone else has done this as well.
Thanks for taking the time to create and share this with us, it will definitely save me and others some frustration.
I have the same Mice 😀Logitech MX518 and Evoluent Verical Mouse 4 Right which has an issue with left click is recognised as double click.
Thanks to your Guide I was able to open the Micro Switch and try to clean it. It was not yet necessary to desolder the switch and solder a new one.
Further I cleaned the Mouse Wheel and put a little bit multi-purpose grease to the ball bearing and now it's quiet.
Glad the video helped! I enjoy my MX518 still. Heads-up if you contemplate the new version, it has much louder clicks.
Thanks so much for the video! My VM4L suffered the wire problem, and the replacement I bought had a really loud scroll wheel. I took it apart and removed the metal nub on the springs inside the wheel. All it does is create the detents when scrolling. The actual scrolling I think comes from the black plastic toothed part on the scroll wheel's axle. Now the wheel spins smoothly,. The thumb buttons, though, didn't really go back quite the same.
Great - thanks for the help. I couldn't repair my first one, but the second one I bought I managed to stop the left click button from bouncing by opening and srapying some switch cleaner on the microswitch. Saved me buying yet another one!
This guy found the issue with my mouse! I could repair it myself following his guide. A little Sugru(tm) makes sure, the cable does not break at the same point again.
Great video! These mice are great too. I have one for each hand. They're fairly expensive, and getting a little bit more use out of one is helpful for sure. THANKS!
My Evoluent Vertical Mouse has served me well for over 5 years now (all day, every day in a work environment) and it has just started to suffer the broken wire problem. Thanks for your video. I should be able to repair it and make it good for another 5 years. (or more - I'll strengthen the wire where it leaves the mouse)
+ i've got the same problem with wire, mouse working and "jingo" she is glowing but not moving and buttons dosent work
This video was a huge help. I was able to solve an issue with my scroll wheel. I got in there and was able to clean the teeth where the metal contacter detects movement up and down. That solved my problem.
Thanks a lot for this video!
I had some problems with my wireless Evoluent 4 mouse where the scroll wheel sometimes would jump around, meaning that if I scrolled downwards, it went upwards and vice versa. I have had the mouse for about five years, but suddenly it started acting strangely.
I wrote to the Evoluent support. They actually pointed me to this video and suggested I should disassemble it. I was a bit skeptical, but in the end I decided to do it (the jumping scroll wheel was driving me insane, especially during my programming).
And guess what? I cleaned a lot of cat hairs inside it --- and now it seems to work fine again! I did try to blow from the outside (before disassembling it), but it was not enough.
It took me a good while to put everything back together, especially the lens and the on/off switch in the bottom. But I finally managed to do it. Now I don't need to buy a new mouse (it's great, btw!).
Thank you! :)
Wow, actually getting referred by Evoluent support? I guess I did an okay job explaining it!
I did have the same problem and fixed it. You just need to disassemble like shown in this video. There is a small adjustable resistor at the axes of the mouse wheel. I used a cotton swap (thing for ears), dipped it in contactspray for electronic parts, and get just a bit of this liquid into this tiny thing.
I don´t want to spray directly in the mouse, because most of the time, it sprays everywhere, even on those parts you don´t want to.
hi Gustav Dahl, I have a wireless Evoluent 4 as well, I wanted to open it as well, can you pls tell me how many screw do I need to removed from it...thanks (& thanks to arg0naut as well for this video)
I also had the exact same issue which was quite annoying trying to scroll down in SublimeText and it'd scroll up. Disassembly and cleaning fixed the issue.
I had the exact same issue with the mouse wheel. I am so glad to come across this video with disassembling instructions. I was able to get it working to a reasonable level now. From here on I will be able to fix these problems myself. Thanks for the video
Thanks a lot for the video! I have the Vertical Mouse 4 (regular size), but disassembly worked just like with your VM4 Small. Only possible difference was that I could not simply pull off the large black part, I had to first loosen it by pressing the points where I had removed the screws earlier, using a larger screwdriver. I only broke one tab in the process ;-)
Unfortunately, cleaning the (surprisingly clean) inside did not solve my double click issue.
Great video, gave me the confidence I needed to open my VM4 up to clean out cat hair and dead skin. Only issue I ran into was one of the screws holding the silver thumb rest in was already stripped :( I was able to clean out a decent bit of the mouse regardless, thank you!
Thanks so much for this. it was a great help and I'm sure it saved me from breaking something. I knew I was going to have to get in there and see what the problem was eventually and finally did tonight. I too suffered from the wonky scroll wheel problem and cleaned it with tweezers, a small toothbrush like brush, and cotton swabs. Works just fine once again. Mine is a wireless unit but it was just the same.
Wish you had one for the Evoluent 3. I've had this for about 7 years, I think, and the double-click button on the top has to be pushed in 'really' hard to work. Anyway, the one you're working on looks complicated, but not as bad as mine. They must have decide that NO ONE MUST FIX THESE! Anyway, it's worked great for a long time, so money well spent. Good video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
thank you for your video, it helped me to disassemble my mouse (evoluent vertical 4 cordless BT) carefully and fix a problem with the mousewheel.
Thank you for the video. My left MB was being random especially while doing drag and drop. Opened it up and listening to the left click mouse button (blue switch on mine) it sounded not as clucky as the other ones so I thought the switch is a just end of life. But closed it back up without doing anything and resigned to just swap the button functions in software and now it works again! But if the problem returns my plan is to de-solder and swap the switches because I never use the pointer speed switches.
The left MB seems to be a recurring issue for many others. If you end up ordering a replacement part could you post up the part number so others could reference it? Thanks and glad to hear the mouse is working again.
@@arg0naut I actually have two of these mice, one left hand one right so six buttons total. When I listen to all the switches actuating I can hear the ones which are higher click count have a higher pitch sound. This high pitch click may be a sign of impending failure. The order of highest pitch to lowest pitch (format L=left, M=middle, R=right, B=button, H=hand) is RHLB, LHLB, RHRB, LHRB, RHMB, LHMB which makes sense if usage of RH (older)>LH (newer) and LB>RB>MB. The switch is an electronics component you would need to desolder to replace it but it's doable. For me the RHLB is still glitching periodically but the fix has been to repurpose the MB=LB in the software since I don't use the MB for anything else. Also this is better ergonomics by default since with two mice this divides the most repetitive use LB into two different buttons for a 50% reduction in index finger actuations. If I ever get new mice I'll probably just make as many buttons as practical to do left button function.
@@bubblebobble9654 Thank you for the follow up and detailed breakdown of information! A good tip to repurpose mouse clicks too!
For anyone who occasionally has trouble with the scroll wheel on the "Evoluent LLC VerticalMouse 2", try placing a dark cloth over your mouse hand (covering both mouse and hand) when scrolling. I discovered that a high light environment interferes with the light sensor used to detect wheel motion. I also could scroll perfectly with the mouse upside down in my hand as this gave the mechanism some extra shade. My home fix was to open up the mouse and stick dark tape (or black glue) on the inside of the 2 buttons closest to the wheel. This is clearly a design flaw. (It is possible that the effect might be worse on white/silver coloured mice as the plastic used here is more transparent). This effect is not seen on later models (even the white/silver ones ... unless you know better). Otherwise - its a great mouse and I can absolutely recommend it (and later models) to everyone.
Woa, what an interesting fix for the wheel. Thanks for sharing this!
thank you, i was able to replace faulty switch under left mouse button on my evoluent vm4 based on your instructions
You are most certainly welcome! I'm glad this video is helped you! I actually re-watched it to remind myself. One of the thumb buttons on my mouse went out and I need to replace the spring.
was it a drop in replacement or was soldering required?
@@tubulartuber i removed the failed button, solder the new one (from ali)
thank you. This helped me to fix my mouth's scroller issue
Thanks for the video, you saved me a bunch of time troubleshooting my usb issue.
Glad it helped! Were you able to fix it?
@@arg0naut Yes i was, exactly the way you showed in the video. i pulled the cable a bit into the mouse along the pathway and it now works great again without disconnecting every few seconds ;)
Mine is going well, (3 years plus) but thank you for showing me how to fix the mouse wheel
I've had 4-5 of these over the years and love them! However, all but 1 failed the same way; the wire!!! So frustrating that they don't put a cable gromit in the design.
That cable has 4 wires, and on one of them there is no insulation, just untwisted bare wire. Once it gets into the mouse it does have a bit of insulation, presumably for a few inches as it goes to the connection block. When I stripped the cable to examine the break, right at where it enters the mouse, sure enough, that uninsulated wire was the one that broke.
Thanks arg0naut! Just did the same clean up, and your tips were invaluable. Subscribing.
Glad the tips helped you! I don't upload many fix-it videos though and hope your expectations aren't too high for future content. Hope your mouse continues to serve you well.
I have the Evoluent 4 wireless, and after 18 months I'm scrolling and the mouse wheel just grinds and breaks. No more scrolling. So it's not just the wire - they in general build the mouse with durability in mind.
Thanks for this! I love these mice. My wireless version is having its own issues and is out of warranty so I'm going to have to try and fix it myself.
Did you fix it? Mine started double clicking and now it is unusable. Their customer support is terrible.
@@GeraltBosMang I was able to fix mine by disassembling and adjusting the connections which were loose. But eventually I ended up buying the latest wireless version because my old one wasn't reliable enough. I kept having to reopen and adjust it and after a while it wasn't worth it. I haven't had any issues with the new one yet except that I don't like the plastic material because it makes your hands sweat.
@@Cheshie thanks for the update. I think I may have to resort to buying a new one as well. I can't find any alternative that is exactly vertical like evoluent. All the other alternative vertical mouse on the market is only 40-70% degrees and make my wrist hurt.
@@GeraltBosMang yeah it's the best vertical mouse I know of. I also get really bad wrist pain using conventional mice and this one saved me a lot of grief even though it broke down on me.
Louange à Allâh, Seigneur des mondes, j'étais bloqué avec les deux vis sous les plastiques collés en-dessous de la souris et cela m'a beaucoup aidé... Merci beaucoup !
Les vis étaient difficiles à trouver la première fois pour moi! je suis heureux que cela vous ait aidé! J'utilise un traducteur, désolé pour une faute d'orthographe.
@@arg0naut il n'y a pas de fautes ;) bonne journée
I love my Evoluent but the left button clicks don't register every time. Drives me insane.
Hi, thanks for the video! Before disassembling it, just a question: the wheel on my vertical mouse is awfully hard to use. Could it be caused because of the dirt, or is it a feature? I haven't used it for a long time and I don't remember it was so hard to roll.
It isnt very hard for me to roll my mouse wheel. It could be accumulated dirt and dust causing that. You could try compressed air first to blast anything out before opening the mouse up.
Thanks for the disassembly instructions. Did you ever fix the USB cable? If so, how?
Tried to fix the cord but my splicing and soldering skills are poor. A more skilled person probably could get the job done though.
I cut out the "bad" section of cord and tried to reconnect the good pieces. Didn't work though.
I managed to get the cable repaired, though it wasn't the best of soldering jobs. Now, however, the other end is buggy as well. I think if one is going to take the time and effort it's probably worth replacing the entire cable.
I recognized the optical sensor on the bottom isn't lighting up, but the blue LEDs at the back are ok. I try to change it :-)
Thanks for this, I needed to disassemble because after not using the mouse for two years, the mouse wheel lubricant had somehow aged and become very viscous, making the mouse wheel very stiff. After cleaning it off with alcohol and putting a drop of lubricant into the inner part of the wheel where the ball bearing spring mechanism is located, the mouse wheel is back to normal again. It still feels a fair bit "heavier" to turn than ordinary mice, perhaps I still need to use a better lubricant, but at least it's usable again.
By the way to use this mouse on Linux, I tend to switch off the silvery buttons,
and make the mouse wheel perform the same as the middle-click,
using these commands:
xinput list|grep Evol
(to find out the "id=" for the mouse) then set the button mapping for that id (in my case it was id=29) using e.g.:
xinput set-button-map 29 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 0 2 0 11 12 13 14
I have a Evoluent Bluetooth mouse its scroll wheel is jumpy(not consistent) ... I thought i'd replace it but after watching this video the scroll wheel mechanism is quite different than the one usually found on other mice.
Is this a proprietary scroll wheel mechanism ? Is this part available online ?
Unfortunately I don't know part numbers and am not familiar with what a typical mouse looks like under the hood. It might be good to disassemble and clean if dirt or debris has gotten into the scroll wheel assembly.
Good luck!
Also, i think someone had a similar issue in the comments 5 yrs ago and used some oil to fix it. A good write up of instructions I think too. Hope that helps.
My wireless mouse has suddenly stopped working? No light is showing up.. I replaced the batteries but no succes
Hi,
Its a pretty old upload ... but can comeone tell me the length size of the micro switches(click mechanism) and the no. of pins used in this mouse (most of the mouse switches will have only 2 pins soldered but the switch per se will be 3 pin switches ?
I see that the front and back thumb click buttons(switches) and their width seems lesser than the primary mouse buttons(switches) ... is it a 2 pin micro switch ? what is the width(length) of these 2 switches ?
thanks.
Yea, sorry I threw away the broken mouse a long time ago and don't have the parts to measure for you. If you find the answer could you post it here? I'm starting to have issues with the Vert4 side buttons now too.
Thanks
Do you have a red optical sensor? Or could it be a blue one? But I never saw a blue sensor ever in my life?
Mine doesn't have any color or light up on the bottom. The Evoluent logo on the back lights up blue though. I don't know enough about optical sensors to provide any more info sorry!
@@arg0naut Oh thanks. Then this was no good idea to replace it with a red diode. Shit again :D
Nice video, thanks! Could anyone tell me the name / spec of the switch for the left and right click buttons ?
Good day, could you tell what size buttons are needed to replace the back and forward buttons? or throw link on ebay
CiDi0US sorry, i didn't source replacement buttons. If you manage to determine what they are, I'd be interested to know. Good luck!
I have replaced USB cable with shielded cable from printer. I am using this mouse 7 years since then.
Thank you :)
I have a Evoluent 4 here that gives me error code 10 in windows. ATM I didn't find out where the problem is. I plugged off the USB-cable and tested every pin from this USB-cable and moved it while I tested it with a multimeter it but I can't determine a broken cable. Shit :-(
Dang, sorry to hear that. I haven't run into that issue yet. If you figure it out let me know though. Good luck!
@@arg0naut No matter. I got this mouse for 0 EUR ;-) I found a red diode that fits but now it continuously blinks after plugged in. I uploaded a video here. Maybe it's helpful for someone or someone has an idea how to solve this. ruclips.net/video/BK0Tx7jOxRI/видео.html
how long did your mice last?
About 2-3 years of daily use in an office environment with drafting software. One mouse the cord broke (I suspect) and another a switch for the mouse buttons stop working.
Does anybody know, which microswitch are used in this mouse and where to buy them? I have wireless version. It works great and long, but now it produces double click nearly each time ii press the mouse button instead of one click. How to fix that (sure, i cat exchange the microswitch in the mouse, which I'm not using often, but this is the last approach I'll take)
Does anyone know if this tear down is similar on the Evoluent VM C? I'd imagine it's about the same, just without the main buttons coming out.
Old video,I know but... If I remove the top plastic, how am I supposed to put it back again since it is glued? Has anybody tried this out successfully?
Top plastic? The bottom you mean? Where the screws are? Hopefully if you use a hair dryer and keep the adhesive from getting dirty it will restick otherwise you will need to reapply a small coating of glue to put it back on.
@@arg0naut I think the video said top plastic but I might be wrong, sorry. I see your point, thanks! I will make sure the adhesive doesn't get dirty. Thanks!
@@YoErCaSTy and make sure the adhesive is warm and peel slowly in one smooth motion. If you are jerky removing the plastic you could bend and crease the plastic. You can see that a little in the video in the reflections off the black plastic.
@@arg0naut you're right. Thanks a lot for the follow-up answer. Much appreciated!
If anyone succesfully replaced the PMW3610DM-SUDU sensor of a VM4 for a better IPS sensor send me a message, we need to talk ^^.
Lol wtf is up with that mouse on the far right? Looks like it was melted with a soldering iron.
The mouse is an older model Logitech MX518. I thought the same thing before buying it a long time ago. It is a pattern on smooth plastic and not melted.
@@arg0naut That's gotta be fun to clean out periodically.
Mice are cheap - wrists are expensive
Apple users beware! I purchased the Evoluent Vertical Mouse to use on my Mac (having researched that it was compatible). You are required to download a driver to run the buttons. Evoluent did not have a current driver for the new OS operating system. On their website they direct you to a 3rd party driver download (to make the buttons function). Upon downloading this driver it blew up my operating system. I had to take my Mac to get repaired and the operating system reinstalled. This came at some expense and a lot of time and stress. I contacted Evoluent to assist and reimburse me. They washed their hands of me. Terrible product with terrible software and even worse support.
Sorry to hear. I just got a new Evoluent and I installed the USB Overdrive driver yesterday on my Mac without any issues.