To all the people that comment on me using hammers and pry bars. Such as... "Never us a ball peen hammer because you'll crack the case" or " I wouldn't let that guy build my transmission because he uses a pry bar". Considering I've never had a transmission leak or cracked a case, maybe... perhaps because I know how to use these tools correctly, my only suggestion is that you should stay away from such tools if that is YOUR concern. Not once in over 4000 builds have I ever cracked a case or was careless enough to assemble a transmission without making sure the surfaces were flat and true. Certain transmissions have "pry tabs" and places to use a pry bar. The front retainer and top cover of the T5 all have areas designed to use them.
Decades back my father was an industrial mechanic. Someone from the factory told me that the mechanics made $15 per hour just to beat on the machines with a hammer. When I told him that, Dad said, "That's not right. I make $1 an hour to beat on the machines with a hammer. The other fourteen is for knowing where to hit it."
I cracked my case today. I was pushing out the cluster shaft. things were going smoothly. I was using silicone spray to aid removal. snap! lol. things happen. I have much respect for Paul. I will carry on. shit happens. his books are the best out there, and I will get this!
Armchair mechanics those people are called. Even as a technician myself that frequents torque wrenches and by the book procedure, i think you've done a perfect job.
This video was helpful, for an amatuer hobbiest like me. Trying to get the top cover off, the tip for pushing it sideways was invaluable. I came here for that. Thanks Paul.
Man, I got a lot of respect for you transmission guys. Cars in themselves are getting complicated, and then you get the box of trick bolted to the powerplant. Excellent stuff.
Just want to give you a big THANKS for helping me pass my A3 Manual Transmission ASE test this morning! I've been a technician at a luxury car dealer since I started in the automotive business, and we don't really get into transmissions very much, we do full replacements on everything. I studied hard, and decided to watch this video while I ate breakfast before I went to take the test. It came in very handy, because there were several questions on things that were not covered in the ASE study guide, but I got the information I needed from this video. Thanks!
I spoke to you last year about my snap ring on 5th gear( your explanation) . I found a mechanic that was trustworthy and it was exactly as you had described. Thanks for the help !!!! My 5.0 will be back on the road Monday !!!!!!
Thanks for the video. I got your book and just took my blown up T5 apart. Had to get a third gear and many other parts but your video and book made it that much easier to accomplish.
That seal on the output shaft is called an anti-grunt seal. The slip yoke will have a machine surface to go over that seal to help stop the oil from making a noise when the slip yoke goes in and out.
Majority of transmissions do not have boots on the end of the seal. Ford and Chrysler used them. GM never did on any manual trans. The Ford T5 trans with the boot had no extra machined surface since they are not stationary and have slip yokes they share the same surface the rides on the bushing.
@@GearBoxVideo We are not talking about the output seal at all. Ford used an anti grunt seal on the output shaft for years. The slip yoke was machined for this seal to ride in the inside diameter of the slip yoke. C4-C6-FMX- and the 2wd sticks as well.
Never seen that. The only seals that ride on the spline on the T5 are used to seal the transmission shipped with fluid. Once the yoke is installed the seal gets pushed out of the bushing. TEmail a Pic of one. I'm curious
Outstanding, just saved my ass a whole lot of messing around with my WC T5 I have to go into my 302 Falcon, great job mate appreciate the lessons learned.
I came here to find out the magic combination to getting the front top cover off, and good thing I did. This is not anything like a NP535, which was the last transmission (last 4, to be exact) that I worked on. I got lotsa horror stories on that one.... I'm trying to take my original T-5 apart to see how deep the damage is to input/countershaft gears. The replacement, though quieter than the original, will not engage in first gear anymore. When I got it, it would engage if you happened to be rolling and double-clutched as you downshifted. Sometimes you needed to engine brake slightly, but once it was in, it was a solid starter. Never had it pop out of gear on me once it was engaged. Now, the sync still works, but once you get past that, it won't engage enough to do any good. I suspect that the truck I got it from was the victim of a teenage driver. I guess I'll find out later if it's the sync or a damaged fork. The other issue is that the replacement is for electronic speedometer, and my truck uses a drive cable. I'd really love to get my cruise control back, if at all possible, among other things.
Thanks for the info and NO I will not give these guys a second look. I have a friend that owns a shop.Right now my Ford Ranger tranny is down and if I rebuild it, I'll order a kit and struggle thru it myself. I like watching your vids and your knowledge.The old Choctawman.Thanks again.
Although, "you were a little rough on the Beaver, Ward." ... It was a Great Take-Down ! No BS ! Just a "Blood and Guts" Teardown ! You're awesome, Paul ! " Super Video ! Thank You ~!!
Nothing to 'steal'.....glad to contribute to your hard-core humor...'Hey..let's have a f.cking parade !'..I ordered your book on eBay...(to rebuild my Harley Hauler) Keep IT up ! Thank you~!
Very well done and showed, you are an expert I can see it (I am a hopeless mechanic) I am always fascinated by how the mechanics can put all those bolts and screws every where in the bench and later find their place.
I called a few trans shops locally and they all acted like I was speaking a different language and one shop said that 5th and reverse are tied together and that it wouldn't be the snap ring. gotta love closing your eyes and hoping for the best when dropping off your baby at a transmission shop......
+Chandler Mallo I would say RUN. Go to another shop they obviously do not know how a T5 works. 5th and reverse do share the same lever but that is not your issue. Its not that hard to pop off the extension housing as shown in this video and easily confirm the snap ring issue.
9 years ago and RUclips still teaches me more than school hmm.. thank you sir will be rebuilding my t5 WC Tranny. Never rebuilt one before but don’t trust people with my toys and love to say” I rebuilt the transmission “ different type of feeling
You would of made a great orthopedic surgeon. Great video. BTW I repair those finger lacerations you spoke of. Not half as hard as tearing down, rebuilding a transmission.
I thought that guy looked familiar. I bought your book last year when I went to school. Very good detailed book lots of information on manual transmissions
+GearBoxVideo in the video where you are talking about the counter shaft spinning too easily from lack of bearing preload. I understand why it needs preload but my question is exactly how do you measure the drag on the counter shaft? Your book says the preload should be 4-6 inch pounds and use a inch torque wrench but where can you put torque wrench at to measure this?
Great video! I was trying to explain to a guy why he had no fifth or reverse, because he took the wrong bolt out to fill his fluid, and you shot the perfect angle for me to show him.
Paul After months of waiting for better weather and health I just removed the Camaro WC T-5 I rebuilt last year and opened it back up because it was so difficult to get OD to engage that I wasted the syncro for third with too many failed attempts. You had suggested that the interlock plate of the shift fork assembly might be in backwards so I checked it against the assembly I'd run successfully before and found them the same. I did notice the shift rod plug missing and a little rotational binding in the assembly I just pulled, but otherwise they looked the same. Third gear syncro is worn out as I expected. I did index the bell-housing with a spare input shaft with a bearing in a bearing retainer flush mounted in the hole to the rear surface of the bell-housing with four strips of 1 x 1" angled steel so I don't see how I could have got that wrong. I have a needle bearing pilot and a Center Force diaphragm clutch which I've run for years without issue. I now have five questions. My main question is why is it that the syncros for 1st and 2nd are designed so robust when it is the higher ratios (3rd, 4th, and OD) that actually require more braking by the syncros because their ratios are further apart from each other? Aren't there some bad-ass syncros for the higher gears available for the WC T-5 ? Also I saw somewhere that somebody made a collar that bolted around the snap ring that retains the OD gear on the output shaft. That's a good idea because mine came off once even though I'm sure my snap-ring was in place. Do you know where I can get one of those? I've got both a WC and NWC tail-shaft housing. Is the WC the one with the most steps machined in the boss for the OD gear on the cluster shaft? Last, where in Florida is your shop? I just assumed from your accent you were up in NY somewhere. LOL I live in Kissimmee FL. Joe
GearBoxVideo thanks 1st and 2nd shift fork was broke as well as 1st gear syncros. I have a 94 GT and found a deal on a 88 T5, I know they have a shorter input shaft but I'm trying to figure the best way to make sure it's going to fit in my SN95.. I have the bell housing for both units.. can I just swap the input shaft from my 94 T5 and use its bell housing?
Amazing to watch. Thorough knowledge. Excellent narration. Super good camera work. Non-stop action. I really enjoyed this. Can you do one for the 4x4 guys about the SM465 tranny? Thanks!
Cool of you to share your knowledge. Thank You. I keep shearing the the teeth off the input shaft and destroying the counter gear. 86 gt mustang. can this be the result of incorrect shim clearances? I am am rebuilding a Tremec WC T5 currently. I am going to mic the the shims and berak out the dial indicator.
A few things. Are you replacing the gears with cheap gears on Ebay? Current original equipment countergears are hard to find. Alignment issues between the bellhousing and trans can cause breakage as well a simple overload and shock from a harsh clutch.
your thought on me buying total new one for stout quality or gamble on rebuilt ;my son bought rebuilt waiting on delivery ;tells me the brand new perhaps mass produce and cut corners versus rebuild upgrades ;we both dropping our aod transmissions in both our 91 and 92 gt mustangs
Problem with rebuilt units is that you don't know what manufactured the gears are from. Are the gears all new or was the box rebuild with changing a few bearings and has gears that are over 20 years old. The new transmissions are pretty good, if you can find one.
NOW!!!!!!!!!!!, I see the light, a very informative video, makes me game enough to have a look inside, btw do input shaft seal die?, Thanks for your time, Mate
Would love it if you did a tear down/rebuild of a Muncie. I've got an M22 in my car that I'd like to take a look at. It still works alright but it would be nice to know more about it!
Great video! Read your book, excellent. Still a little lost on setting endplay and what thrust washers do and why they're needed. I have an idea, but if you have a clear, slow video, lmk please!
+Chandler Mallo You have to remove the transmission. So whatever the labor rate it to remove it and do fix it properly its about an hours labor. If the 5th gear is loose on the shaft you may want to find another that fits tighter and of course get a new snap ring.
hey paul I see all these guys putting 500hp and 480tq to t-5 at the track and still surviving, like that guy 50tussin on you tube for the past 5 years in all his videos he is using stock parts what gives man, and he is using 4.56 gears wow wow man, what did he just get the cream of the crop patch t-5 or is it just to sell more t-5 parts very confused, love your videos paul outstanding my friend.
Hello again. Tanks to your video and book I learned to understand how it works the T5 on my mustang. Now I have another question. I replaced the slave cylinder and clutch disk that was burn out. Well, a few months later I began to feel a wobble sensation comming from the front of the transmission. I took it down and apparently the input shaft broke the slave cylinder. It was like the shaft was hitting the slave as it spin. The slave cylinder works by hydrologic pressure. I check the front bearing that holds in place the shaft and was ok. I order a new slave cylinder but I'm not sure if I need to replace the input shaft or the bearings from the end of thr input shaft inside the transmission. And If I need to replace it where to get it. It has to be special since I order that car to the Ford directly and It is a t5 wc on a 4.0 motor stock.
Amazing videos. I have a 1350-260 T5 I’m looking to put in a 69 mustang but my 5th gear has a brass clutch on the outside of it that engages when the trans in put in reverse, is the normal and where can I find I diagram for it as I’m missing the correct snap ring by the looks of it. Thank you
The reverse brake snap ring is the same as the standard one without the brake. If you have the tabbed cone and spacer it uses the same snap ring. I have all the parts.
I have a wc T5 out of a 4 cyl 86 Turbo coupe. I hear some parts are hard to get for the 4 cyl t5. I also have a tremic to from a 2000 v6 mustang. Can you use this transmission and put the 4 cyl input shaft in it if parts are easier to get for that transmission? Your videos are the best, old school mechanics no how to use a hammer properly. Watched your videos with Eric the car Guy.
If I were doing this, I'd completely clear off the bench before starting and then put each set of parts into individually labeled bins. I'd also take lots of pictures with my digital camera as I went. I would be terrified of not knowing how the parts went back together, or of not having enough parts to reassemble, or of having parts left over that I can't identify.
Ok, the Slider rotates constantly right? So the Shifter Forks ends are connected to the Slider with just lubricated friction? Btw I like your videos. I've learned a lot. I've been driving for many years and learned things I don't know just now, especially the Synchro Rings.
The electronic speedo reluctor is held in place with a snap ring and anti rotation ball underneath it. You have to pull or press the reluctor off by itself because it shrouds the 5th snap ring. So you have to remove the reluctor to expose the 5th gear snap ring.
Hi Paul have ordered a cluster support plate from you and its on its way, I filled my 251 box with Castrol transmax dex 111 mineral ATF, is this the right oil or would you recommend I use a synthetic oil ? thanks.
May I PLease ask you your opinion On what Fluid I should Be running in My t5 60 k on it I just flushed it with the ford Fluid It feels Fine I think It was Merc 4? in the red bottle but Would I benefit from Royal purple Syncromesh etc? what do you use? Thank You in advance
Quick question, my input shaft had needle bearings when it came out, do you have any videos showing how to replace them in the correct order when doing an overhaul?
Have you experience a 4hf1 transmission stock on the 3rd gear during a run,i have replaced all the syncronizers and the crown but the problems the same
Sir, I have a 94 Firebird with a Tremec T56 6 Speed. It calls for Dexron 3, Texaco/Havoline. I live in S. Texas. I watched your Gl4-Gl5 Video, but that was for the Muncie 4 Speed. Should I go back with factory oil? What do You suggest? Thanks, Sincerely, David
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing it. But now I'm truly concerned about one details in particular: At 9:34 thou said "it is a brand new transmission" and "bearings too loose". So does that mean is that this gearbox is not "ready to use" when I buy it? It is necessary to tune things up before installing in my project???
Hi Paul, I guess I have to take my brand new 215 gearbox out to see what is making the whine, in fact its more of a wooooo! in first/second/third, we have worked on T5s before, any idea what the most likely cause to look for ? pocket bearing ? also after only 50 miles I had play in the rear prop shaft yoke bearing, it was a brand new yoke and was lubricated with plenty of trans oil when fitting, you can feel the yoke moving with your hand if pushed side to side, so I guess I will have to change that as well, Thank you.
devonrod more than likely you have a bellhousing to crank alignment issue, which can cause a whine from side loading gears as well as ruin a rear bushing
Thanks Paul, we did put dial gauge on the flywheel and checked the bell housing and it was within specs about 4 thou if I can remember, I will have to go through it all again.
What is the length on that neutral safety switch pin? I'm pretty sure the one from my transmission is gone for good, and since no one seems to sell that pin I'm going to have to make my own out of a nail or something.
Hey Paul, first off i want to say that i love the videos and your book is excellent. However i was hoping you could help me out. i'm in the process of rebuilding my first t5 and I've got almost everything done. I'm to the point where i have to slide on the tail housing and put the ball/spring/ and lever on however. i'm having an issue even mating the tail shaft housing to the case? and when i put two bolts on it immediately locks up both the input and the main shaft. I know the forks didn't move but it binds to the point that i can't move either shaft by hand.. Is this a common issue? any advice would be great. Thank you!
Hey what’s up I have a 1988 Camaro manual and I’m having the hardest trouble understanding and knowing if and where is the shifter cable. I purchase my vehicle a few months ago and everything was fine but I’m 63 250 pounds and I think my strength messed up my shifting cable because since then I’ve had shift issues.
Fantastic video, you really know your stuff. You inspired me to rebuild my NWC T-5 from my 82 Jeep. I have one question and I am hoping you would have the answer for me. I installed new blocker rings but didn't take any measurements prior to disassemble when I put it all together again I have a gap of 0.130" between 3 gear and the blocker ring. Is this a normal clearance or have I done something wrong? Keep these vids coming brother, they are great. Thanks, Dave
David Murphy Its normal. What happens is you are pushing the ring forward, which takes up the gap of the maindrive section. Not to worry. Your new ring when against the 3rd gear can have anywhere from .030 to almost .060 depending on who makes the ring. This is measured by pushing the ring up against the cone and measuring the space between the backside of the ring and gear.
Hello Paul, Nice Video on how to take apart the T5 tranny, I am looking to do it myself but I need a video on how to put it together, do you have a CD for sale on how to rebuilt it and put it together? I also wants to ask you a question, I am swapping a 5.0 Engine on my 94 V6, I bought a new bell housing CFI approved, can I used the forks from the 3.8, will this fit or or do I need to buy a new one? Thanks in advance for the response!
I have your book and it's been a great help with my ranger 5.0 and t5 swap. Wondering if you have any advice on swapping out the a S10 tailhousing and shift cover onto a mustang t5 in order to move the shifter closer to the front of the truck (I really don't want to switch from bench to bucket seats. Thanks again for the great book.
This is a popular swap but most people forget that the Ford mainshaft will not have the speedo come out in the same place as the S10. You would need an S10 mainshaft, shift rail, offset lever, S10 5th speed set and a GM shifter to make it work properly, The world class S10 mainshaft can use a mechanical drive speedo.
GearBoxVideo I have already have a complete s10 t5 with the shifter but it's from a 4 cylinder. Would the mainshaft work with the gears and assembly from a 5.0 mustang t5 and if so would the s10 4 cylinder t5 mainshaft and 5th speed set hold up if mated to a ford 5.0 I could pull a used transmission from a v6 s10 if that would hold up better. Thanks for any help.
eric b Again as mentioned the Ford mainshaft doesn't have the speedo in the right location. If both the Ford donor and S10 4 cyl are world class, you can put the Ford gears on the S10 mainshaft. You would use the S10 5th set as well.
How is fifth gear lubricated? If it is lubricated, does the tail housing fill up with oil? If the tail housing fills up with oil, then how do you get that oil out when changing the lubricant? Thanks.
Very very impressive. Awesome tips on how to slip out the shaft that holds the 5th gear synchro. Dumb question but is a 1994 Chevy S-10 2.2l 5spd this transmission ? Or are they different?
I have a t5 I was passing in 3rd it was like I put the clutch in something broke and had to limp it home with only 4th and reverse any ideas what happened? I would appreciate some help
Question for GearBoxVideo: My mechanic said he topped up our T5 WC (1989 Mustang 5.0) with fluid BUT apparently he used the domed shiny torx bolt on the upper drivers side to do it. I know this is the incorrect fill hole, and appears about 3 inches too high. Watching your video it also appears to attach to a bracket inside the transmission. Could the bracket separate and fall into the gears inside the transmission? We drove the car home but haven't driven it since.
@@Burnedtoastify usually they break the clip and it falls in the transmission. Look at my T5 videos and you can see what I mean ..He should pay for any repairs due tonhis inexperience
Paul, Love the videos, very well done and I learned alot. Also just watched the ones you did with ETCG. I would like to learn to rebuild NWC T5s for my Jeep Cj restorations. I find so much about the WC T5s. I understand the differences are mostly in bearings. My plans are to use your WC T5 videos and book and just dig in. Not sure that is the best approach. Any advice?
I'm looking for a decent NWC T5 now. Like the WC, its getting difficult to locate ones that have not been abused in use or more importantly on the work bench. One last note, the Jeep NWC T5 2nd gear 31 tooth is getting impossible to find.
To all the people that comment on me using hammers and pry bars. Such as... "Never us a ball peen hammer because you'll crack the case" or " I wouldn't let that guy build my transmission because he uses a pry bar". Considering I've never had a transmission leak or cracked a case, maybe... perhaps because I know how to use these tools correctly, my only suggestion is that you should stay away from such tools if that is YOUR concern. Not once in over 4000 builds have I ever cracked a case or was careless enough to assemble a transmission without making sure the surfaces were flat and true. Certain transmissions have "pry tabs" and places to use a pry bar. The front retainer and top cover of the T5 all have areas designed to use them.
Decades back my father was an industrial mechanic. Someone from the factory told me that the mechanics made $15 per hour just to beat on the machines with a hammer. When I told him that, Dad said, "That's not right. I make $1 an hour to beat on the machines with a hammer. The other fourteen is for knowing where to hit it."
I cracked my case today. I was pushing out the cluster shaft. things were going smoothly. I was using silicone spray to aid removal. snap! lol. things happen. I have much respect for Paul. I will carry on. shit happens. his books are the best out there, and I will get this!
Armchair mechanics those people are called. Even as a technician myself that frequents torque wrenches and by the book procedure, i think you've done a perfect job.
I like the way you work 👍
@@nonyadamnbusiness9887 sort of reminds me what my dad, a career pilot, once told me. "I don't get paid to fly air planes. I get paid to land them."
Well, after watching the complexity of modern automatic transmissions, I'm in love with manual transmissions.
This video was helpful, for an amatuer hobbiest like me. Trying to get the top cover off, the tip for pushing it sideways was invaluable. I came here for that. Thanks Paul.
Man, I got a lot of respect for you transmission guys. Cars in themselves are getting complicated, and then you get the box of trick bolted to the powerplant.
Excellent stuff.
Just want to give you a big THANKS for helping me pass my A3 Manual Transmission ASE test this morning! I've been a technician at a luxury car dealer since I started in the automotive business, and we don't really get into transmissions very much, we do full replacements on everything. I studied hard, and decided to watch this video while I ate breakfast before I went to take the test. It came in very handy, because there were several questions on things that were not covered in the ASE study guide, but I got the information I needed from this video. Thanks!
+Galen Pritchard Awesome!
I spoke to you last year about my snap ring on 5th gear( your explanation) . I found a mechanic that was trustworthy and it was exactly as you had described. Thanks for the help !!!! My 5.0 will be back on the road Monday !!!!!!
Glad to hear.
Thanks a lot for all the videos on T 5s. The book kicks ass I'm glad I bought it.
Thanks for the video. I got your book and just took my blown up T5 apart. Had to get a third gear and many other parts but your video and book made it that much easier to accomplish.
That seal on the output shaft is called an anti-grunt seal. The slip yoke will have a machine surface to go over that seal to help stop the oil from making a noise when the slip yoke goes in and out.
Majority of transmissions do not have boots on the end of the seal. Ford and Chrysler used them. GM never did on any manual trans. The Ford T5 trans with the boot had no extra machined surface since they are not stationary and have slip yokes they share the same surface the rides on the bushing.
@@GearBoxVideo I'm not talking about the boot on the seal.
Do you mean double lip, triple lip and single lip differences? A great deal of factory stuff was simply single lip
@@GearBoxVideo We are not talking about the output seal at all. Ford used an anti grunt seal on the output shaft for years. The slip yoke was machined for this seal to ride in the inside diameter of the slip yoke. C4-C6-FMX- and the 2wd sticks as well.
Never seen that. The only seals that ride on the spline on the T5 are used to seal the transmission shipped with fluid. Once the yoke is installed the seal gets pushed out of the bushing. TEmail a Pic of one. I'm curious
Hell you are one of the best in the world. Whoever coments poorly on you doesn’t know what they are talking about
Amazing to watch you do this, I am of to my shed now to do as I am told just now, thank you very much for this video
Outstanding, just saved my ass a whole lot of messing around with my WC T5 I have to go into my 302 Falcon, great job mate appreciate the lessons learned.
'JUST LIKE THAT!" This guys amazes me! Love you video's!
Thank you
I came here to find out the magic combination to getting the front top cover off, and good thing I did. This is not anything like a NP535, which was the last transmission (last 4, to be exact) that I worked on. I got lotsa horror stories on that one....
I'm trying to take my original T-5 apart to see how deep the damage is to input/countershaft gears. The replacement, though quieter than the original, will not engage in first gear anymore. When I got it, it would engage if you happened to be rolling and double-clutched as you downshifted. Sometimes you needed to engine brake slightly, but once it was in, it was a solid starter. Never had it pop out of gear on me once it was engaged. Now, the sync still works, but once you get past that, it won't engage enough to do any good. I suspect that the truck I got it from was the victim of a teenage driver. I guess I'll find out later if it's the sync or a damaged fork.
The other issue is that the replacement is for electronic speedometer, and my truck uses a drive cable. I'd really love to get my cruise control back, if at all possible, among other things.
Thanks for the info and NO I will not give these guys a second look. I have a friend that owns a shop.Right now my Ford Ranger tranny is down and if I rebuild it, I'll order a kit and struggle thru it myself. I like watching your vids and your knowledge.The old Choctawman.Thanks again.
+Monroe Boone No need to struggle you can always call after 6pm to 8pm for tech
Changing playback speed to .75 really helped me digest this very informative content. Thanks for sharing!
The rebuild kit kicks ass also.
+Not crazy Just stupid (Real stupid) Thanks for getting my book and kit. I appreciate the support
Although, "you were a little rough on the Beaver, Ward." ... It was a Great Take-Down ! No BS ! Just a "Blood and Guts" Teardown ! You're awesome, Paul ! " Super Video ! Thank You ~!!
..."rough on the Beaver.." I'm going to steal that one from you for use in future videos Mike.
Nothing to 'steal'.....glad to contribute to your hard-core humor...'Hey..let's have a f.cking parade !'..I ordered your book on eBay...(to rebuild my Harley Hauler) Keep IT up ! Thank you~!
wow its like a workout.great job ;;;had see the video like 17 times .
Mr gearbox video did great job on videoing and speaking too and explanation of servicing gearbox and transmission
Very well done and showed, you are an expert I can see it (I am a hopeless mechanic)
I am always fascinated by how the mechanics can put all those bolts and screws every where in the bench and later find their place.
Gervacio Artigas I always use a systems of checks after each sub assembly.
I called a few trans shops locally and they all acted like I was speaking a different language and one shop said that 5th and reverse are tied together and that it wouldn't be the snap ring. gotta love closing your eyes and hoping for the best when dropping off your baby at a transmission shop......
+Chandler Mallo I would say RUN. Go to another shop they obviously do not know how a T5 works. 5th and reverse do share the same lever but that is not your issue. Its not that hard to pop off the extension housing as shown in this video and easily confirm the snap ring issue.
i am amazed how you organized the parts that are extracted.
When you do them everyday...it's not that hard. In the beginning I was terrified!
Thank you I appreciate I figured it was probably something along those lines I was just hoping that it might've been in shift linkage
9 years ago and RUclips still teaches me more than school hmm.. thank you sir will be rebuilding my t5 WC Tranny. Never rebuilt one before but don’t trust people with my toys and love to say” I rebuilt the transmission “ different type of feeling
So true .Thanks for watching👍
Glad I watched this first.. too much for me to tackle.. gonna take it to a pro.. thanks for the vid
You would of made a great orthopedic surgeon. Great video. BTW I repair those finger lacerations you spoke of. Not half as hard as tearing down, rebuilding a transmission.
I thought that guy looked familiar. I bought your book last year when I went to school. Very good detailed book lots of information on manual transmissions
+gtp tim Thank you!
+GearBoxVideo in the video where you are talking about the counter shaft spinning too easily from lack of bearing preload. I understand why it needs preload but my question is exactly how do you measure the drag on the counter shaft? Your book says the preload should be 4-6 inch pounds and use a inch torque wrench but where can you put torque wrench at to measure this?
you can put a 12 point socket on the end of the countergear. It just has to grab it and not fit exactly to the gear.
great video, good camera work, and very good explanation.
Glad you liked it!
Hey! I have that book from years ago. :)
(It appears this isn't the 1st T-5 you've taken apart.) Thanks for your efforts.
Awesome! You are a pro! Thanks for sharing.
+Thomas Carlson Your welcome.
Great video! I was trying to explain to a guy why he had no fifth or reverse, because he took the wrong bolt out to fill his fluid, and you shot the perfect angle for me to show him.
Paul
After months of waiting for better weather and health I just removed the Camaro WC T-5 I rebuilt last year and opened it back up because it was so difficult to get OD to engage that I wasted the syncro for third with too many failed attempts. You had suggested that the interlock plate of the shift fork assembly might be in backwards so I checked it against the assembly I'd run successfully before and found them the same. I did notice the shift rod plug missing and a little rotational binding in the assembly I just pulled, but otherwise they looked the same. Third gear syncro is worn out as I expected. I did index the bell-housing with a spare input shaft with a bearing in a bearing retainer flush mounted in the hole to the rear surface of the bell-housing with four strips of 1 x 1" angled steel so I don't see how I could have got that wrong. I have a needle bearing pilot and a Center Force diaphragm clutch which I've run for years without issue. I now have five questions.
My main question is why is it that the syncros for 1st and 2nd are designed so robust when it is the higher ratios (3rd, 4th, and OD) that actually require more braking by the syncros because their ratios are further apart from each other?
Aren't there some bad-ass syncros for the higher gears available for the WC T-5 ?
Also I saw somewhere that somebody made a collar that bolted around the snap ring that retains the OD gear on the output shaft. That's a good idea because mine came off once even though I'm sure my snap-ring was in place. Do you know where I can get one of those?
I've got both a WC and NWC tail-shaft housing. Is the WC the one with the most steps machined in the boss for the OD gear on the cluster shaft?
Last, where in Florida is your shop? I just assumed from your accent you were up in NY somewhere. LOL I live in Kissimmee FL.
Joe
Thank you great info!
great video!!!
this Video helped!!!!
answered a lot of questions!
fast pace! like it!
This man is a legend.
In my own lunch time....
great video, I'm researching rebuilding my t5 in my 94Gt, when put in 1st gear it pushes it right back out, all other gears work fine.
Could be a bad 1-2 shift fork.
Thank you I'm planning on taking the trans out in the next couple weeks.
GearBoxVideo thanks 1st and 2nd shift fork was broke as well as 1st gear syncros. I have a 94 GT and found a deal on a 88 T5, I know they have a shorter input shaft but I'm trying to figure the best way to make sure it's going to fit in my SN95.. I have the bell housing for both units.. can I just swap the input shaft from my 94 T5 and use its bell housing?
I may have to do that a little slower!
Great informations! Thanks friend! Hugs from Brazil!
I take that you have built many in your sleep by the looks of it Paul!
Like a boss 👍
Yep prob even do it blind folded
this guy is awesome
Thanks!
Amazing to watch. Thorough knowledge. Excellent narration. Super good camera work. Non-stop action. I really enjoyed this. Can you do one for the 4x4 guys about the SM465 tranny? Thanks!
Send me a transmission and I will. Until then you will have to wait until I get one in my shop. Pretty easy transmission to build.
Great Video ,Keep up the good work bud!!
you make some great videos , thank you
your welcome
Awesome
Fantastic!
Cool of you to share your knowledge. Thank You. I keep shearing the the teeth off the input shaft and destroying the counter gear. 86 gt mustang. can this be the result of incorrect shim clearances? I am am rebuilding a Tremec WC T5 currently. I am going to mic the the shims and berak out the dial indicator.
A few things. Are you replacing the gears with cheap gears on Ebay? Current original equipment countergears are hard to find. Alignment issues between the bellhousing and trans can cause breakage as well a simple overload and shock from a harsh clutch.
your thought on me buying total new one for stout quality or gamble on rebuilt ;my son bought rebuilt waiting on delivery ;tells me the brand new perhaps mass produce and cut corners versus rebuild upgrades ;we both dropping our aod transmissions in both our 91 and 92 gt mustangs
Problem with rebuilt units is that you don't know what manufactured the gears are from. Are the gears all new or was the box rebuild with changing a few bearings and has gears that are over 20 years old. The new transmissions are pretty good, if you can find one.
NOW!!!!!!!!!!!, I see the light, a very informative video, makes me game enough to have a look inside, btw do input shaft seal die?, Thanks for your time, Mate
bennockley This was a new transmission I took apart. Nothing was wrong with it.
Thanks for all the info great videos
Robert Sanchez I appreciate that, and thanks for sharing it.
Really like your channel dude. Very helpful.
Thank you
Would love it if you did a tear down/rebuild of a Muncie. I've got an M22 in my car that I'd like to take a look at. It still works alright but it would be nice to know more about it!
No Mature Content check out www.transmissionbook.com there will be some videos released when the new book comes out Mid Octobee
I watched that one the other day :D
Great video! Read your book, excellent. Still a little lost on setting endplay and what thrust washers do and why they're needed. I have an idea, but if you have a clear, slow video, lmk please!
A full rebuild video will be airing on the ericthecarguy RUclips channel 1st week of Jan 2016. A link will be posted when it airs.
+GearBoxVideo Thank you.
And with the fifth gear shift fork. You can just slide the whole assembly out without tapping the pin out?
thanks for the quick reply, I am looking for a shop to fix it and just wondering what the ball park number the job should cost to resolve the issue ?
+Chandler Mallo You have to remove the transmission. So whatever the labor rate it to remove it and do fix it properly its about an hours labor. If the 5th gear is loose on the shaft you may want to find another that fits tighter and of course get a new snap ring.
hey paul I see all these guys putting 500hp and 480tq to t-5 at the track and still surviving, like that guy 50tussin on you tube for the past 5 years in all his videos he is using stock parts what gives man, and he is using 4.56 gears wow wow man, what did he just get the cream of the crop patch t-5 or is it just to sell more t-5 parts very confused, love your videos paul outstanding my friend.
I've watched the videos. You can hear that the gearbox is probably using G-Force gears that were pro-shifted.
you right I didn't think of that thanks paul
Hello again. Tanks to your video and book I learned to understand how it works the T5 on my mustang. Now I have another question. I replaced the slave cylinder and clutch disk that was burn out. Well, a few months later I began to feel a wobble sensation comming from the front of the transmission. I took it down and apparently the input shaft broke the slave cylinder. It was like the shaft was hitting the slave as it spin. The slave cylinder works by hydrologic pressure. I check the front bearing that holds in place the shaft and was ok. I order a new slave cylinder but I'm not sure if I need to replace the input shaft or the bearings from the end of thr input shaft inside the transmission. And If I need to replace it where to get it. It has to be special since I order that car to the Ford directly and It is a t5 wc on a 4.0 motor stock.
Sergio Soto Is the pilot bushing in the crank shaft?
GearBoxVideo yes Sir. And it looks fine to me. Don't know what's wrong.
Paul, say someone did put a snap ring on up side down, how would you get it off?
you know your stuff. got respect that!
Thank you
Thanks
Amazing videos. I have a 1350-260 T5 I’m looking to put in a 69 mustang but my 5th gear has a brass clutch on the outside of it that engages when the trans in put in reverse, is the normal and where can I find I diagram for it as I’m missing the correct snap ring by the looks of it.
Thank you
The reverse brake snap ring is the same as the standard one without the brake. If you have the tabbed cone and spacer it uses the same snap ring. I have all the parts.
thank you for answering my question and love the video but I have another one what internal parts from a four cylinder T5 will work with a V8 T5?
Gearsets are different. Some 5th set are the same as well as shift mechanisms, forks rails etc and synchro assemblies.
I have a wc T5 out of a 4 cyl 86 Turbo coupe. I hear some parts are hard to get for the 4 cyl t5. I also have a tremic to from a 2000 v6 mustang. Can you use this transmission and put the 4 cyl input shaft in it if parts are easier to get for that transmission? Your videos are the best, old school mechanics no how to use a hammer properly. Watched your videos with Eric the car Guy.
Just use a V8 transmission and use a different pilot bushing
If I were doing this, I'd completely clear off the bench before starting and then put each set of parts into individually labeled bins. I'd also take lots of pictures with my digital camera as I went. I would be terrified of not knowing how the parts went back together, or of not having enough parts to reassemble, or of having parts left over that I can't identify.
I agree. If you don't know the transmission best to use digital cameras and whatever means you can to help remember where things go.
Ok, the Slider rotates constantly right? So the Shifter Forks ends are connected to the Slider with just lubricated friction? Btw I like your videos. I've learned a lot. I've been driving for many years and learned things I don't know just now, especially the Synchro Rings.
Nice, thanks for making the video! Where can I get that press clamp?
They are from Harbor Freight... www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html
How do you press out the tale shaft bearing?
Can you do one with the electronic speedo..do you have to press the speedo gear off?
The electronic speedo reluctor is held in place with a snap ring and anti rotation ball underneath it. You have to pull or press the reluctor off by itself because it shrouds the 5th snap ring. So you have to remove the reluctor to expose the 5th gear snap ring.
Paul, why is the front bearing retainer so short on the T-5?
does it use a slave/ release bearing combo?
Hi Paul have ordered a cluster support plate from you and its on its way, I filled my 251 box with Castrol transmax dex 111 mineral ATF, is this the right oil or would you recommend I use a synthetic oil ? thanks.
I use Driven Racing STF as well as Royal Purple Synchromax in all my race T5 units.
Hi jim my input shaft lost all the teeth can I just but in a new input shaft and clean up the inside the gear box and be good to go
usually the matching gear will be damaged as well.
What kind of oil do u recomend .. Tks:)
+Oscar Ramos The two oils that I prefer are Royal Purple SynchroMAx and Pennzoil Sychromesh.
May I PLease ask you your opinion On what Fluid I should Be running in My t5 60 k on it I just flushed it with the ford Fluid It feels Fine I think It was Merc 4? in the red bottle but Would I benefit from Royal purple Syncromesh etc? what do you use? Thank You in advance
I prefer the royal purple synchromesh fluid. I believe it is called Synchromax
I have a 2006 mustang v6 t5..third gear grinds..do I only near whole synchronizer assembly with slider and 3rd gear to correct issue?
Take it apart first. You might need one item or all. You cannot guess what could be wrong
Quick question, my input shaft had needle bearings when it came out, do you have any videos showing how to replace them in the correct order when doing an overhaul?
If it's a t5 watch the videos
How hard would it be to fix the input shaft and the matching gear there is no transmission shop here I live in a small town
+dustin nelson a more detailed video I did is here: ruclips.net/video/XREsRG9Y1mU/видео.html
Have you experience a 4hf1 transmission stock on the 3rd gear during a run,i have replaced all the syncronizers and the crown but the problems the same
I don't have any experience with that unit. Sorry
Sir, I have a 94 Firebird with a Tremec T56 6 Speed. It calls for Dexron 3, Texaco/Havoline. I live in S. Texas. I watched your Gl4-Gl5 Video, but that was for the Muncie 4 Speed. Should I go back with factory oil? What do You suggest? Thanks, Sincerely, David
Use the factory recommended oil in your T56
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing it. But now I'm truly concerned about one details in particular: At 9:34 thou said "it is a brand new transmission" and "bearings too loose". So does that mean is that this gearbox is not "ready to use" when I buy it? It is necessary to tune things up before installing in my project???
Pretty much the new transmissions are set up sloppy
Hi Paul, I guess I have to take my brand new 215 gearbox out to see what is making the whine, in fact its more of a wooooo! in first/second/third, we have worked on T5s before, any idea what the most likely cause to look for ? pocket bearing ? also after only 50 miles I had play in the rear prop shaft yoke bearing, it was a brand new yoke and was lubricated with plenty of trans oil when fitting, you can feel the yoke moving with your hand if pushed side to side, so I guess I will have to change that as well, Thank you.
devonrod more than likely you have a bellhousing to crank alignment issue, which can cause a whine from side loading gears as well as ruin a rear bushing
Thanks Paul, we did put dial gauge on the flywheel and checked the bell housing and it was within specs about 4 thou if I can remember, I will have to go through it all again.
The doctor Nick Riviera of the transmission world. HI EVERYBODY!
Welcome. More videos coming
What is the length on that neutral safety switch pin? I'm pretty sure the one from my transmission is gone for good, and since no one seems to sell that pin I'm going to have to make my own out of a nail or something.
I have the pins in stock. They are $3.00 call me at 561-743-5600
Hey Paul, first off i want to say that i love the videos and your book is excellent. However i was hoping you could help me out. i'm in the process of rebuilding my first t5 and I've got almost everything done. I'm to the point where i have to slide on the tail housing and put the ball/spring/ and lever on however. i'm having an issue even mating the tail shaft housing to the case? and when i put two bolts on it immediately locks up both the input and the main shaft. I know the forks didn't move but it binds to the point that i can't move either shaft by hand.. Is this a common issue? any advice would be great. Thank you!
Make sure the front retainer is off and that the synchro keys are in the sots of the input shaft and 3rd gear rings
Hey what’s up I have a 1988 Camaro manual and I’m having the hardest trouble understanding and knowing if and where is the shifter cable. I purchase my vehicle a few months ago and everything was fine but I’m 63 250 pounds and I think my strength messed up my shifting cable because since then I’ve had shift issues.
There is no shifter cable in a 5 speed 88 camaro
Fantastic video, you really know your stuff. You inspired me to rebuild my NWC T-5 from my 82 Jeep. I have one question and I am hoping you would have the answer for me. I installed new blocker rings but didn't take any measurements prior to disassemble when I put it all together again I have a gap of 0.130" between 3 gear and the blocker ring. Is this a normal clearance or have I done something wrong?
Keep these vids coming brother, they are great.
Thanks,
Dave
David Murphy Its normal. What happens is you are pushing the ring forward, which takes up the gap of the maindrive section. Not to worry. Your new ring when against the 3rd gear can have anywhere from .030 to almost .060 depending on who makes the ring. This is measured by pushing the ring up against the cone and measuring the space between the backside of the ring and gear.
Hello Paul, Nice Video on how to take apart the T5 tranny, I am looking to do it myself but I need a video on how to put it together, do you have a CD for sale on how to rebuilt it and put it together? I also wants to ask you a question, I am swapping a 5.0 Engine on my 94 V6, I bought a new bell housing CFI approved, can I used the forks from the 3.8, will this fit or or do I need to buy a new one? Thanks in advance for the response!
what forks are you talking about? In regards to a complete video. I have one in the works but it wont be finished until next year.
You must has been doing this for years I would have to put them bolts in a cup to keep up with them
BRENDAJASON1 I believe he wrote the book lol
Literally
I have your book and it's been a great help with my ranger 5.0 and t5 swap. Wondering if you have any advice on swapping out the a S10 tailhousing and shift cover onto a mustang t5 in order to move the shifter closer to the front of the truck (I really don't want to switch from bench to bucket seats. Thanks again for the great book.
This is a popular swap but most people forget that the Ford mainshaft will not have the speedo come out in the same place as the S10. You would need an S10 mainshaft, shift rail, offset lever, S10 5th speed set and a GM shifter to make it work properly, The world class S10 mainshaft can use a mechanical drive speedo.
GearBoxVideo I have already have a complete s10 t5 with the shifter but it's from a 4 cylinder. Would the mainshaft work with the gears and assembly from a 5.0 mustang t5 and if so would the s10 4 cylinder t5 mainshaft and 5th speed set hold up if mated to a ford 5.0 I could pull a used transmission from a v6 s10 if that would hold up better. Thanks for any help.
eric b Again as mentioned the Ford mainshaft doesn't have the speedo in the right location. If both the Ford donor and S10 4 cyl are world class, you can put the Ford gears on the S10 mainshaft. You would use the S10 5th set as well.
How is fifth gear lubricated? If it is lubricated, does the tail housing fill up with oil? If the tail housing fills up with oil, then how do you get that oil out when changing the lubricant? Thanks.
The case has a pass thru port on the bottom
we want a fully vw beetle repair transmission . please !!!
Please do a t176.
Very very impressive. Awesome tips on how to slip out the shaft that holds the 5th gear synchro. Dumb question but is a 1994 Chevy S-10 2.2l 5spd this transmission ? Or are they different?
Some of the S10s did come with T5's that year.
ok thanks, I had a feeling it was possibly a T5 after seeing ur video and getting under that truck
I have a t5 I was passing in 3rd it was like I put the clutch in something broke and had to limp it home with only 4th and reverse any ideas what happened? I would appreciate some help
Question for GearBoxVideo: My mechanic said he topped up our T5 WC (1989 Mustang 5.0) with fluid BUT apparently he used the domed shiny torx bolt on the upper drivers side to do it. I know this is the incorrect fill hole, and appears about 3 inches too high. Watching your video it also appears to attach to a bracket inside the transmission. Could the bracket separate and fall into the gears inside the transmission? We drove the car home but haven't driven it since.
@@Burnedtoastify usually they break the clip and it falls in the transmission. Look at my T5 videos and you can see what I mean ..He should pay for any repairs due tonhis inexperience
input shaft removal, arent there like 15 needle bearings in there that i should not drop into the case?
Yes, that's why you want to tilt the front of the case downwards so they stay in the input
What is the part called that is located behind the last synchro ring and what is it used for
retainer plate for the keys
wow.. great video
Thank You!
Hey do you have access to NV 5600. G56. The Ford ZF units full size parts and pieces.
I do not
What I'd the part behind the last synchro ring and what is it used for
To to the strut keys from popping out
thanks for the suggestion ...can you name any such book ??
If you want to learn about gearboxes, this book has a good section on theory, basic repair, and shows how to build 5 transmissions: amzn.to/2lcX96t
+GearBoxVideo ..thanks for the help sir
Paul, Love the videos, very well done and I learned alot. Also just watched the ones you did with ETCG. I would like to learn to rebuild NWC T5s for my Jeep Cj restorations. I find so much about the WC T5s. I understand the differences are mostly in bearings. My plans are to use your WC T5 videos and book and just dig in. Not sure that is the best approach. Any advice?
The NWC box is pretty much the same, with less parts such as no bearings under the gears. If I get a NWC box, I'll do a rebuild video.
I'm looking for a decent NWC T5 now. Like the WC, its getting difficult to locate ones that have not been abused in use or more importantly on the work bench. One last note, the Jeep NWC T5 2nd gear 31 tooth is getting impossible to find.
Hi Paul Great Video. Is it possible to convert a NWC to a WC? I have a NWC I would like to use in my resto-mod. could you provide some tips. Thaks
What is the part number of the internal seal that sits behind the rear seal what's the part number and the name of that part