Troubleshoot a Leaking Water Heater Pressure Relief Valve
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- Опубликовано: 5 апр 2018
- Steps to troubleshoot a hot water heater pressure relief valve that keeps opening. Thermal expansion or a bad PRV valve can cause high pressure on an open or closed water heating system.
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Know How now videos you may find helpful - Replace T&P valve ruclips.net/video/d6JCr3UcsCw/видео.html
Check Home Water Pressure ruclips.net/video/ySfaBvV6e84/видео.html
Pressure Reducing Valve Videos ruclips.net/p/PLvce66kQTjJReaodK6EpMtVvRVi5o4Myu
There are hundreds of videos at Know How Now, subscribe so you can always find the channel…. It’s free. I always respect your time and do my best to keep the videos brief, but informative. Check out the channel with this link:
www.youtube.com/@Know-How-Now/videos
Thanks for a great video! My P&T relief valve kept popping off on a new water heater; your detailed troubleshooting steps helped me pinpoint the problem - my city water pressure was just over 100psi at the water heater! I've since added a pressure reducing valve to the system - seems to have solved the problem. Thanks!
You are welcome, Brian. Way to go on being resourceful and finding the solution to your problem. It's great to hear that the video is helpful. Thanks for taking the time to comment. Have a great day.
Thank you so much for the info! Great job on getting all that information in on such a short video. Well done!
Thanks for the feedback, Justin, you describe exactly what I try to accomplish in every video. I also spend a bunch of time researching the videos too. Sadly, I am not doing what You Tube rewards, that is putting out a little information in the longest possible time period and hoping you will watch to the end thinking you will get the information you want. lol. Any help such as subscribing, watching the entire video, thumbs up, saving it to favorites and sharing the video will help them get to the top of the search page. Best wishes for diagnosing your problem.
Great job summarizing the system.
Great video, thanks for sharing!
You are welcome, Jason! It's my pleasure to help with the troubleshooting.
Fantastic video! Thanks so much 🙌 This is how a master teacher, teaches. Liked, subscribed and shared!! 10☆
hi there, i don't have any bypass or extension tank, city water goes strait to my electric water heater, so two days ago T&P valve spitted little water on the floor, what should i do?? thanks
Thank you for sharing, you would make a great teacher at a trade school or technical college. Speaking of the T&P valve leaking 210°F because of a faulty thermostat, something that is extremely rare and unlikely, another problem is a grounded heating element in an electric water heater AND a failed high temperature cut off. The normal thermostat only switches one leg of the 240 circuit. Sometimes the element can deteriorate internally, and the inner nicorme wire can touch the outer sheath of the element, which is grounded through the tank. If this occurs near the center of the element, it can have enough resistance to limit the current drawn, and the circuit breaker will not trip. The element will heat non stop with 120 volts. The red reset button is supposed to pop out and cut power to both legs. If it jammed up, then your T&P valve is your last stop safety device, before a catastrophic explosion. Water, when superheated over 212 degrees F under pressure, flashes to steam increasing its volume about 1600 times if the tank ruptured or a pipe blew off the tank and drops to atmospheric pressure. For this reason a pressure only valve will not offer adequate protection in storage type water heaters and boilers.
Thanks for the compliment and thank you for the contribution you have added to the comments.
Nice job dude. thanks. I learned a bunch.
You are welcome. Thanks for the compliment.
A great way to find out whether the T&P opened due to pressure or temperature, is the quantity of water released. A high pressure condition (over 150psi) will cause intermittent discharge of relatively small amounts. A high temperature condition (over 210°F) will cause large amounts of very hot water to be discharged, as the valve will open full force and stay open until the temperature at the valve probe is cooled below the temp limit by the cold water inlet. It's also why Code requires a discharge pipe to be installed within 6 inches of the floor and be visible. For one, you want to be able to monitor for discharge, in addition, it's to prevent severe scalding in case the valve should release while someone is standing nearby.
Thanks for the tips, Kyle.
So if my T&P is discharging very small amounts of water then it's most likely the thermal expansion tank and not the actual T&P valve?
I would say that is an inaccurate statement. My T&P valve gushed water even with power to the heating elements off. I had the power turned off to the hot water heater for about 2 days. Drained it, and when I filled it back up (still with no power to it) bam, discharged a ton of water again. It flowed until I turned the incoming water off. I am on a well, so I haven’t narrowed down the problem yet. But I can say your statement about it being temp is incorrect. I changed the valve, tried the same test, have the same issue. Even with no power to the tank.
@@azeekay correct. Thermal expansion is probably the most common cause for a leaking T&P valve. The expansion tank if present may have lost the air cushion. If a check valve or pressure reducing valve is installed (local codes may require it to prevent cross contamination of the main water supply) when the tank is heating the water cannot expand back into the water main, and easily approaches 150psi which releases the valve until the pressure is below 150 psi resulting in relatively small amounts of water
A high temperature condition (210°F) caused by a stuck thermostat or grounded heating element is extremely rare, because the high limit switch or ECO would also have to fail. On most gas water heaters the ECO is non resetting and requires replacement of the gas control valve after an overheat condition. An electric water heater has a red reset button that pops out cutting both legs of the 240V circuit if the water reaches 170 - 190°F depending on the model.
My valve is leaking but the water isn’t hot just warm
Hi, my t&p valve opens up and lets water out after it gets done heating. What does that mean? I have a pressure regulator on my water system from the mini water but don't see anything else. Just recently started noticing water on my basement floor from the t&p. Not a constant leak, just lets water out from time to time, normally after heating
Thanks
If your regulator has a bypass, maybe it's clogged and not allowing the heated water to expand back into the municipal system. Some of the regulators have a strainer plug and a screen. You can try cleaning it out. You can look up the model number of the regulator to verify it has a bypass.
You want to make sure your pressure relief valve works properly...if not it can cause serious damage
Thank you!
You are welcome!
How can you determine whether the pressure reducing valve has a bypass?
Find the model number on the valve, go to the manufacturer's web site and look for data sheet.
awesome! can the pressure reduce valve with bypass be used at the same time with the expansion tank?
The bypass on the pressure reducing valve & the expansion tank accomplish the same thing. If you have that situation, I'd guess that someone added the expansion tank for some reason (the thermal bypass on the pressure reducing valve not working?) or maybe just out of ignorance. Or maybe they replaced the pressure reducing valve with the wrong model? You'll need to be mindful of your local codes too.
Know How Now I just got a new water heater and the expansion tank. Since then the T&PV started dripping and the main valve banging ( especially with the sprinklers on). The plumber didn't pre charge the expansion tank according to the pressure of the house. The old open system never faulted. The old water heater had a T-flow ball valve on the cold line. I can't get the right pressure, so I think I need a new PRV. The one I have now (Wilkins BR4) range from 15 to 150 PSI. How do I choose the right PRV for the house?
I'd call Zurn or Watts (both make PRV's) and talk to their tech support. They will help you get the correct one.
Hi, It leaking from bottom. Insulation dry. Also,. Leaking out copprer pipe outside. New heater or new pressure release valve? No other leaks. Water clear 9yr old heater w hard water. Very hot water. Kenmore.
I recently paid $8.95 on eBay for a new T&P valve. I have a video showing how to replace one, mine was easy to change. ruclips.net/video/d6JCr3UcsCw/видео.html
Wooder. Gotta be from Maryland or Pennsylvania. My guess is Maryland. Great job hun
Yep, that's how we say it here in south east PA. lol.
I’m getting a leak from behind that white gasket where the pressure relief valve screws into the water heater, does that mean my water heater needs to be replaced or could it still be the valve?
I'd try removing the pressure relief valve, clean the threads, put some pipe dope or some plumber's tape on the threads. Hopefully that will stop the leak. I have a video that shows how to replace a T&P valve that should help. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/d6JCr3UcsCw/видео.html
What about brand new gas heater not turned on yet just hooked up so I have water while working on house. All the sudden today valve was wide open don't understand how since it's not heated/on yet ? Could that valve be bad brand new
That's weird. I would recommend calling the manufacturer. They may have tech support. If it's defective, they should cover it under warranty. I have a video on how to handle warranties/defective products. You might find it helpful. ruclips.net/video/i_r0w-vYZQc/видео.html
Please let us know what happens.. it sounds interesting.
@@Know-How-Now found the problem nothing to due with water heater. House has no water pressure regulator some reason. Just strange wasn't pumping out like it is now been in crawl space all week adding power outlets to porch and the outside carport. When I was under there and also two other people it's been realtively dry but still put in moisture barrier and that is now all wet. Just seems strange, so adding a valve hopefully this weekend.
That's interesting. I suppose water pressure from the supplier could increase if changes were made to the system.
I recently had one of the elements on my water heater go bad so I had to drain the tank and replace it. When I drain the tank I had a lot of calcium buildup come out and I also replaced the other element while the tank was empty. When I removed it it also was covered in calcium. We had been having an issue with not having enough hot water so I turned both of the elements temperature settings up to about 150°. Fast forward a couple months and now the T&P valve keeps periodically draining out of its drain tube. I'm not sure why this has started happening but if you had any advice I would appreciate it. Great video by the way very thorough and well laid out
You could have a new problem not related to your previous repair. You may want to try going through troubleshooting steps to identify the problem... with out doing some tests there is no way to give an accurate answer to the problem.
@@Know-How-Now thank you for the response. I don't know why I'm only now seeing it. But it ended up being a completely separate issue. The T&P valve had a small leak that was causing the water I was finding
I've found that if you open/close an older T&P valve that it will often start to leak. There is likely a rubber gasket in there that is getting brittle. It's not a problem until you disturb it by opening & closing the valve. Thanks for taking the time to write about the solution. For anyone needing a video to show how to replace the T&P valve here's a link to a KHN video showing how to do it. ruclips.net/video/d6JCr3UcsCw/видео.html
My 3/4 valve is leaking, it usually drips when the boiler kicks on, it’s a pretty good leak and I’ve tried opening the valve releasing water and it’s still dripping. The boiler is about 8 years old, does it need replacing, the psi is about 20, when the boiler kicks on psi is usually 35. The other half inch valve drips very minimally.
It sounds like thermal expansion could be the problem. Do you have an expansion tank? They have liners that eventually fail. If liner failed and the tank is full of water, then there isn't an air in the tank that can compress to compensate for the heated/expanded water (causing pressure to rise when the water is heated). You may be able to tap on the tank and hear if it is full of water.
And how do you get the water out of the expansion tank? The P&t valve wont stop dripping and is new.
My T&P valve seems to open/leak every time someone showers or runs hot water. Started after I tested it like you should do once a year.
There is rubber sealing the connection on the T&P valve, over time it dries out. If you have an expansion tank, make sure the bladder has not failed. If the expansion tank is good, then you need to replace the T&P valve. If you allow it to leak, mineral deposits can build up and it won't work. I have a video that shows how to replace one: ruclips.net/video/d6JCr3UcsCw/видео.html
PS - Odds are that if you haven't tested the T&P valve and it is old (over 10 years) it wouldn't reseal because the rubber was dried up. The seal was good until you disturbed it. The same thing has happened to me.
@@Know-How-Now I have lived here under 5 years but the previous ownders probably never tested it. It started to leak when I tested it. So, you are probably right.
I've replaced my p.r.v. and flushed it but it's still dripping. Anyone know why?
I have a video to troubleshoot that problem. Here's the link: ruclips.net/video/E8VJxb_eUQI/видео.html The channel also has several videos about pressure reducing valves.
The problem I found with my T&P leak was water pressure ' my pressure reducing regulator has failed and I was getting over 160 psi cold water supply to the house( should by 70) and case for T&P to open up and leake 'T&P relief valve is factory set to function at 150 psi water or 210 fahrenheit hot water ' both pressure and temperature can cause the leak ' I put a pressure gage on the cold water line (available at homedepot 0 to 200 psi )set the pressure for 60 psi by closing half way the main vale( problem has resolved) until later I get a chance to replace bad regulator ' I suggest that the first thing you should do 'if you have leak from T&P relief valve ' or you install new water heater and experience the same problem '------regulator was replaced today 10/16/21
I don't believe you mentioned the remote chance that debris/sediment could be preventing the valve from seating properly. Sometimes, rather than replacing the valve as if it is bad, you can flip the valve open and closed multiple times to spurt the water with the intent of clearing the debris and reseat the seal.
Hi Josh, it's very kind of you to take the time to comment with the great tip. Have a great day.
I replaced my bad water heater. The T&P valve started leaking after 3 months. It never opened, just leaked water. I replaced the valve and now the new one is doing the same thing. How do I troubleshoot this issue?
Do you have an expansion tank? The bladders inside of them fail. Is it leaking when the water heats turns on? If yes, then it's likely the expansion tank.
No expansion tank. The old water heater didn’t have one either and never had a problem. Do new water heaters need them?
You would have to check with your local codes to see if you need to install an expansion tank if you replace the water heater. Did you use a water pressure gauge to check the pressure when the water heater is heating water?
@@Know-How-Now Thank you so much for the info. I’ll get a pressure gauge and check the codes. Great channel. Subscribed!
You are welcome, Ray. Welcome to Know How Now channel. If you haven't noticed, I try to organize the videos using playlists so you don't have to scroll through all of the videos. There is a video on how to check water pressure.
You must be from Philly. Wooder.
I live about 50 miles from the city. Yep.. we drink wooder. lol.
To complicat for many people
warter?
Yep, wadder. That's what we call it in this part of the country. lol.
Philly
Yep, within 50 miles. We have wadder here! lol.
Code violation your pipe cannot be plastic. :)
Which code are you using? Which section & paragraph number would be great to know too. PS - I'm not asking to be a jerk, just out of curiosity. It's an old water heater I'm wondering if plastic was legal when it was installed.
Residential is plastic and commercial is copper. Doesn’t matter where you are in the world .... any tube is better than no tube.
In the UK it is copper as standard. Or you can use heat resistant plastic.
I can’t watch this video because the person can’t say “water” correct
Wadder! Wadder! Wadder!
@@Know-How-Now 😂
well well, if you know how to make videos go viral based on 10 years experience, this video is almost a year old and is having hard time hitting 40,000 views.. so what's the bad luck here..
It's actually good luck! Not many leakers out there today. Watts makes good Valve's.
This videos is way too long , get to the godam point
Sorry it's too long for you Oscar. What parts would you suggest that I should omit?
Yeah Oscar. What are your suggestions?
Such anger...
Fuck up oscar
Always can count on a complainer in every crowd. (Oscar)
Fantastic video! Thanks so much 🙌 This is how a master teacher, teaches. Liked, subscribed and shared!! 10☆
You are welcome! Thank you for subscribing and taking the time to comment. I do my best to make quality videos.