Noticed a suggestion on another video on the Bosch router topic where the commentor recommended replacing the spring clip on the adjustment rod with a drill bit stop. I finally took his advice today and the stop worked like a champ. Easy adjustment is so necessary in the router table application. Sets of these stops are available at Harbor Freight for less than $4.00; item #38336. 👍
I saw that stop bit video, ordered them. My question is if the stop is on the rod, I see it going one way (up or down) but seems it can't go the other because of the stop. Does the stop have to be loosened if I want to go the other way?
I just purchased the same combo for $179 on Amazon along with the router table and an extra base I can leave mounted to it. I had a problem with the plunge base binding and getting stuck in the down position so I disassembled it - by removing the cir-clip on the top of the right post - and discovered the binding problem was in the left post which has the thumb lock. I cleaned it with some gun solvent and then worked it up and down until it moved and released freely.
Same router, accessories and table I have. Excellent review , easy to follow instructions giving Me confidence to set this up and use it. Thank You for this video!
Welcome to the hobby! Woodworking is wonderful, and I hope you enjoy the router. It's a great choice, and routers open up a lot of new things to do with your projects.
Really great breakdown; thanks so much! I’m getting ready to mount this in a router table (never used one before) and this was the most helpful video I’ve seen. Great job!
I have the 1617 setup in my table permanently. I like the MR23 better for handheld work and pretty much stays on the plunge base permanently. And of course a small trim router is good for the small form factor and easier to wield.
I've always wondered, what is the difference between the 1617 and MR23? I have never seen anyone use it, but clearly it must sell well, because Bosch makes both. What are the advantages? I was planning to eventually just get another 1617 to keep as a plunge only, as switching in and out of the table gets annoying. Would you recommend the MR23 over the 1617, for a plunge only?
That would be a great feature. A couple years back I just started wearing a camping/hiking rechargeable headlamp in the shop at all times because so many things need more light when your body/the tool blocks the shop lights.
Hi, Just subscribed. I just bought same 1617 combo router. Can you please suggest me the foldable router table may be a link in amazon or others plus the kreg plate please.. much apprecaited in advance.
It won't let me put the full links in for some reason. Perhaps they are too long. You will just need to google... Rockler Folding Router Table Kreg Benchtop Router Table Kreg Precision Router Table Insert Kreg Precision Router Table Lift. (If you want the lift, and not the plate). Just copy and paste those into Google
I assume you mean the screw mechanism on the fixed base? My first move would be to add some lubricant, preferably a dry one. Is it brand new? If so, I would contact Bosch for a warranty replacement. That fixed based depth mechanism is pretty important. Make sure you warranty register it on their website, then contact them.
@@MMWoodworking i am talking about , a Pinion gear which is used ( attached by manufacturer ) in some cheap router for adjusting the Spindle cutting depth .
@@omsingharjit Ah, gotcha. I'd still start with a dry lubricant, but the problem that can arise with cheaper tools is just poor manufacturing tolerances. One of the parts may just be the wrong size. I am not particularly skilled at the engineering side of things, unfortunately. I'd try posting over on some of the tool forums on Reddit. Take photos and post there. There will be a larger group of people who are knowledgable about the mechanics of tools. I go there a lot for help with that side of things.
I just like having the option of using left or right. I had a few situations early on where I needed to leave something partially plunged, and reaching across meant I had to take one hand off. With it on the left, it just felt easier to use my left thumb to hit it in those situations. I am right handed, so keeping a little more control with my right, which is usually to the outside of your piece, gripping the handle fully just felt more controlled. A lot of my routing is with the edge guide, on relatively narrow box pieces (routing lid/base slots), so you are pushing in to hold the guide to the piece. If you are pulling the bit up and out with the plunge trigger, it doesn't really matter. It's hard to explain in words, but I just left it like that. It's all preference, so you might as well try it out both ways if you want, and see what feels better for you. Sometimes something just feels right, even if it is hard to explain, if you know what I mean.
I believe it is a 3/16-24....The rough dimensions of the screws are below (excuse my lack of terminology, and I am doing this with a ruler so it's hard to count the exact threads): - Flat top, with that conical down shape (about 1/8"), with a Phillips drive. - From top of head to end of bolt = a little under 3/4" - From bottom of cone to end = a hair under 5/8" - The diameter of the threads = 0.185... 3/16"... 4.7mm - The number of threads on a 1/4" is 6ish, so over the total length is around 13-14ish, so 24ish over 1in. This is pretty rough, as I don't have anything other than my eyes and a ruler. I hope that helps and is close enough to get you what you need.
Hi I am in Ireland is it possible you could tell me the motor diameter , as I am trying to purchase a router to fit into a Kreg PRS5000 Precision Router lift in a Kreg table and I can get this converted from the 120 v USA style to Ireland 240v system if the motor is suitable diameter , mainly because no manufacturer uk or Ireland side make one to fit ☹
The Bosch 1617 fits that lift. I have that exact Kreg PRS5000 lift, in the Kreg table, and I put the Bosch 1617 in it. You should be all set with that combo.
Poorly designed fixed and plunge bases. Fixed Base (above and below table): Because the motor is only supported on one side when adjusting height, the bit is not perpendicular (square) with the base. As with most things that are supported only on one side, they tilt to the other side. Tilt remains when clamp is engaged. The machined clamping glides gall (damage) the motor housing when adjusting the height. Then it starts binding so much that it breaks the micro adjuster. The flimsily retaining clip is popped off, rendering the micro adjuster useless. Plunge Base: The plunge action is stiff and binds on the support struts. Causing an uncontrollable jerky plunge action. The depth-stop turret rocks on its support. So, the plunge depth is not consistent. Would not buy this again. Don't know which router is the one to buy. But know this is not the one to buy.
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LOVE your little tips - like not hitting your knuckles! Thank you for making the video.
Noticed a suggestion on another video on the Bosch router topic where the commentor recommended replacing the spring clip on the adjustment rod with a drill bit stop. I finally took his advice today and the stop worked like a champ. Easy adjustment is so necessary in the router table application. Sets of these stops are available at Harbor Freight for less than $4.00; item #38336. 👍
I saw that stop bit video, ordered them. My question is if the stop is on the rod, I see it going one way (up or down) but seems it can't go the other because of the stop. Does the stop have to be loosened if I want to go the other way?
I just purchased the same combo for $179 on Amazon along with the router table and an extra base I can leave mounted to it. I had a problem with the plunge base binding and getting stuck in the down position so I disassembled it - by removing the cir-clip on the top of the right post - and discovered the binding problem was in the left post which has the thumb lock. I cleaned it with some gun solvent and then worked it up and down until it moved and released freely.
Same router, accessories and table I have. Excellent review , easy to follow instructions giving Me confidence to set this up and use it. Thank You for this video!
New to woodworking and recently bought this router kit. Thanks for the in-depth guide on setting it up
Welcome to the hobby! Woodworking is wonderful, and I hope you enjoy the router. It's a great choice, and routers open up a lot of new things to do with your projects.
Really great comprehensive tutorial - thank you for taking the time to make and post it!
Just purchased my bosch 1617 router based on this review. Thanks for the info.
Really great breakdown; thanks so much! I’m getting ready to mount this in a router table (never used one before) and this was the most helpful video I’ve seen. Great job!
Thanks. Router tables are really fun and open up a lot of new things to bring to your woodworking. I love mine, and hopefully you enjoy yours.
Overall a good video on router basics. I hope I can learn to use my new Bosch 1617 as well as demonstrated.
Great video! I'll be modifying my Bosch. Thanks!
This was so helpful thank you!
Nice review, a little blue Loctite should keep the handle screws tight.
my thoughts exactly
Thanks you just solved my issue.
Good tutorial!
Thanks for the vid
I have the 1617 setup in my table permanently. I like the MR23 better for handheld work and pretty much stays on the plunge base permanently. And of course a small trim router is good for the small form factor and easier to wield.
I've always wondered, what is the difference between the 1617 and MR23? I have never seen anyone use it, but clearly it must sell well, because Bosch makes both. What are the advantages? I was planning to eventually just get another 1617 to keep as a plunge only, as switching in and out of the table gets annoying. Would you recommend the MR23 over the 1617, for a plunge only?
Thank you!
I wish make a led light around motor housing like ryobi and bosch palm router.
That would be a great feature. A couple years back I just started wearing a camping/hiking rechargeable headlamp in the shop at all times because so many things need more light when your body/the tool blocks the shop lights.
Hi, Just subscribed. I just bought same 1617 combo router. Can you please suggest me the foldable router table may be a link in amazon or others plus the kreg plate please.. much apprecaited in advance.
It won't let me put the full links in for some reason. Perhaps they are too long.
You will just need to google...
Rockler Folding Router Table
Kreg Benchtop Router Table
Kreg Precision Router Table Insert
Kreg Precision Router Table Lift. (If you want the lift, and not the plate).
Just copy and paste those into Google
What if router doesn't comes with smooth depth adjustment screw inbuilt?
I assume you mean the screw mechanism on the fixed base? My first move would be to add some lubricant, preferably a dry one. Is it brand new? If so, I would contact Bosch for a warranty replacement. That fixed based depth mechanism is pretty important. Make sure you warranty register it on their website, then contact them.
@@MMWoodworking i am talking about , a Pinion gear which is used ( attached by manufacturer ) in some cheap router for adjusting the Spindle cutting depth .
@@omsingharjit Ah, gotcha. I'd still start with a dry lubricant, but the problem that can arise with cheaper tools is just poor manufacturing tolerances. One of the parts may just be the wrong size. I am not particularly skilled at the engineering side of things, unfortunately. I'd try posting over on some of the tool forums on Reddit. Take photos and post there. There will be a larger group of people who are knowledgable about the mechanics of tools. I go there a lot for help with that side of things.
good job bro
Cool video. One question though, why do you have the power switch set to your left hand when you use your right hand to turn the router on and off.
I just like having the option of using left or right. I had a few situations early on where I needed to leave something partially plunged, and reaching across meant I had to take one hand off. With it on the left, it just felt easier to use my left thumb to hit it in those situations.
I am right handed, so keeping a little more control with my right, which is usually to the outside of your piece, gripping the handle fully just felt more controlled. A lot of my routing is with the edge guide, on relatively narrow box pieces (routing lid/base slots), so you are pushing in to hold the guide to the piece.
If you are pulling the bit up and out with the plunge trigger, it doesn't really matter. It's hard to explain in words, but I just left it like that.
It's all preference, so you might as well try it out both ways if you want, and see what feels better for you. Sometimes something just feels right, even if it is hard to explain, if you know what I mean.
23:20 I bought my 1617 "factory reconditioned" and I do not have the three screws you mention. Does anyone know what the screw thread size is?
I believe it is a 3/16-24....The rough dimensions of the screws are below (excuse my lack of terminology, and I am doing this with a ruler so it's hard to count the exact threads):
- Flat top, with that conical down shape (about 1/8"), with a Phillips drive.
- From top of head to end of bolt = a little under 3/4"
- From bottom of cone to end = a hair under 5/8"
- The diameter of the threads = 0.185... 3/16"... 4.7mm
- The number of threads on a 1/4" is 6ish, so over the total length is around 13-14ish, so 24ish over 1in. This is pretty rough, as I don't have anything other than my eyes and a ruler.
I hope that helps and is close enough to get you what you need.
Thanks it was! I went to Ace hardware and bought three stainless 10-24 x 3/4" with flat Allen heads and they have worked perfectly. Thanks!
Hi I am in Ireland is it possible you could tell me the motor diameter , as I am trying to purchase a router to fit into a Kreg PRS5000 Precision Router lift in a Kreg table and I can get this converted from the 120 v USA style to Ireland 240v system if the motor is suitable diameter , mainly because no manufacturer uk or Ireland side make one to fit ☹
The Bosch 1617 fits that lift. I have that exact Kreg PRS5000 lift, in the Kreg table, and I put the Bosch 1617 in it. You should be all set with that combo.
@@MMWoodworking great , thanks for that just have to get it , then get the electrician to sort it out to use 😀😀👍
Lets see some drawer dovetails cut
how to tightened ring it is loose?
Can you give me more info on what ring?
I don't quite follow.
Poorly designed fixed and plunge bases.
Fixed Base (above and below table):
Because the motor is only supported on one side when adjusting height, the bit is not perpendicular (square) with the base. As with most things that are supported only on one side, they tilt to the other side. Tilt remains when clamp is engaged.
The machined clamping glides gall (damage) the motor housing when adjusting the height. Then it starts binding so much that it breaks the micro adjuster. The flimsily retaining clip is popped off, rendering the micro adjuster useless.
Plunge Base:
The plunge action is stiff and binds on the support struts. Causing an uncontrollable jerky plunge action.
The depth-stop turret rocks on its support. So, the plunge depth is not consistent.
Would not buy this again. Don't know which router is the one to buy. But know this is not the one to buy.
11:34 MY EARS gggaaaaaaahh
Yeah, that is 100% my bad. I hadn't yet figured out how to change volume within video.
Please buy a wireless mic for your videos .