Thank you very much for this guide. I recently purchased a Whiteside Ultimate Flush Trim bit which is the biggest and most aggressive cutter I've ever owned. I used it for the first time last week and it threw the board and template right out of my hand because I had no fence or starter pin, I didn't even know what a starter pin was until I did more research and found your video. This really should be something taught more, 731 woodworks did the exact same mistake as me and it threw the board out of his hands.
The router table can be a very dangerous tool to play with. Exposed cutters about a table surface is always a bad idea but it is a necessary evil to allow us to continue our craft. The starter pin is a great way to avoid those injuries and near misses. Will it protect you 100%? No. Nothing will but it will definitely increase your chances for a safe operation of the tool. A healthy fear and respect of the cutter and a firm knowledge of the safety devices to use will also help. I recognized the lack of training when people started asking me what that pin was on my router table or asking what the threaded holes were for in my table insert. I knew then that it was time to produce a video on it. I only wish you had seen the video as a pro-active measure instead of a reactive one. Glad to hear that you weren't injured. Wood can be replaced, fingers can't. Stay safe. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for that. Even after a whole lifetime of carpentry and construction work, , no one ever explained the correct use and purpose for the started pin.
I was so fortunate to have an instructor who would not allow me to use any of his woodworking tools until we went through safety operations and then I performed each technique he had showed me, while he observed. Thank You Mark Spagnolo, better known as "The Wood Whisperer." I agree you visiting other work shops few use the pin. On two occasions the wood on the saw began to bind and I tried to push just a bit harder, realizing a kick back was evident I immediately hit the off button. Mr. Spagnolo was so pleased with my reactions and decided to cut the piece with a band saw then reduce the size of the wood with the tablesaw.. Thank you so much for sharing. It is great to be reminded of safety.
I agree Kenny I don’t get it either! This is a perfect example of why I believe your channel is so important! If only one person heeds this simple advice and prevents a serious accident all was worth the effort! Thanks for all you do!
I couldn't agree more Bob. It just takes one and the show was worth while. Thanks for tuning in this week. No need to thank me.....I truly love what I do and the pleasure is all mine.
I was never shown about this pin and have been free handing everything and always have this gut feeling waiting for the bite to happen. I'm going to use the pin and aim for the middle of the bearing for the start. Thank you very much for this video!
If you are routing on straight pieces, a better setup is to use a router table fence and align it with your bearing so that the fence is guiding your piece through the bit but if you don't have that setup and need to use freehand, the pin will definitely make it safer for you. Thanks for tuning in.
I just switched out my router table router and was going through the spare parts and found a small black pin. The manual didn’t identify the part so I just stored it. Today I found your video by accident. OMG! This was so helpful. All the years I’ve hated the router table because of the kickbacks and you just showed me what I was doing wrong. Thank you so much for this excellent video.😊
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you were able to take something positive away from this video and bring some confidence back to your router table use. Thanks for tuning in.
been using a router screwed to a board and now have a proper table on end of my table saw, for over 40 years and today i finally learn what that pin that sits on top of my fence with a magnet is fore, i have had kick backs quite a few times. so god bless you for the info, take care
While the pin will not completely eliminate that possibility of kickback on the router table Martin, it will definitely go a long way to preventing it. Using the fence is still the safest way to use the router table but when freehand routing on the table, the starter pin is the only safe option. Thanks for tuning in.
This is one of the most valuable videos on RUclips! As a retired Industrial Arts (AKA "shop") teacher, I found myself almost jumping up and down, pumping fist in the air, and yelling, "YES! YES!" because I have witnessed so many people rather nonchalantly chucking up a router bit and just cranking on without that starter pin. Your video shows even the most stubborn woodworker how important that pin can be. Let's keep all our digits intact! Keep it up, brother!
Thank you for the kind words and for your service as a shop teacher (I haven't heard anyone call it Industrial Arts for a long time). I got my love of woodworking at a young age and have been doing it since I was 10. I'm 56 now and still going and I can honestly say that I had a lot of inspiration from my shop teachers both in grade school and high school and I still have a lot of those projects in my house today. The starter pin is quite simply, the easiest and simplest safety device in the shop and yet, no one knows what it is for or how to use it. A simple threaded pin that can save your fingers from a catastrophic injury or amputation. Why wouldn't you use it? I hope that others see the value in this video and that it provides them with the knowledge to keep themselves safe. Feel free to share this video if you wish. Thank you so much for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your thoughts. It's truly appreciated.
You can also make yourself some wider starter pins up to the size of hockey pucks. These will help in getting smaller work pieces closer to the spindle without it grabbing or vibrating. Safety first! 👍
great information and demonstration. I build electric guitars and routing is a huge part of the process. Running a body around the full 360 degree of the shape template takes up the entire router table with frequent start and stop. This Starter Pin will now be added to my machine!
Depending on the grain direction, when routing instruments bodies, it can be important to climb router in order to avoid blowout and tear-out on the routing. During this process, router pins are even more important. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your comment. It's appreciated
While this is a safer method of routing, it still has its risks. Freehand routing (in my opinion) should never be done on the router table. Installing a starter pin is such and easy modification to make. Thanks for tuning in Bill and for chiming in with your thoughts.
I prefer to use the fence rather than the pin. I set the fence to be at the front of the bearing. This also allows the fence to remove most of the dust with the dust collector running.
I fully agree with you on this one. Using the fence is, without a doubt the safest way to use a bearing guided bit however, for those without fences or for routing oddly shaped items that require freehand routing, the starter pin is the way to go. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your thoughts.
I had no idea. I am designing my new table on cad with wood and 3d printed parts. I didnt know this existed. I will now leave tube and design in the fittings for two starter pins. Thanks
For routing square pieces, using the fence in line with a bearing guided router bit is always the safest method but for oddly shaped pieces where you need to rout without the fence, the router pin is the best practice. Good luck with your new router table and thanks for tuning in to the show.
There are far too many people who don't know what that pin is for. I felt it was time to enlighten them and save those fingers. I'm glad that you liked the video. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks a million for this usefull video. I have a starter pin on my router table but I didn't know how to use it. To be honest I didn't even know what was the purpose of this "extra part". I experienced a kickback a few weeks ago during the trimming of a guitar body along a template with a trimming bit. It happened exactly as you describe. At the moment the body encountered the bit. I don't know how this could be but at the end nor the bit, myself and the working piece suffered from this experience. (lucky me) And thanks to you I see now how I could avoid this to happen again !
I'm glad that you weren't injured but am also glad that you now have the knowledge to help prevent router table kickback in the future. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your story. it's appreciated.
I.just want to thank you for 5he information on the starter pin .I'm repairing a old bench top unit it's probably not worth the effort but now I can add a starter pin since it never had one have a great holiday
Good video to highlight a vital safety point. I have a homemade table but no pin. I just use my homemade router fence and clamp a block to it. does the job but I am fitting a threaded insert to take a starter pin which will bolt insides a couple of skateboard bearings.
Thank you so much for explaining what the starter pin does! I knew my router table came with one but I’d never seen anyone explain why and how they are used. I could have used it on a project I was working on last week. Now to see if I can find mine!
For people without a lathe, you can buy a “spacer” at the hardware store. And if your homemade router table does not have a place to screw it in, drill a hole and add a 1/4x20 threaded insert.
I just experienced this problem yesterday God i had mad a huge step back when it happen the kick back could be very dangerous...very brilliant thank you for sharing I didn't know about this thing... Clever !
As long as they are sturdy and give you a strong pivot point to support the stock and feed it into the router bit, you should be fine. Thanks for tuning in and good luck on your modification.
What a wonderful lesson : I have been always been intimidated by the Router and the router table...But your video has really helped me in learning how to use it safely. Thank you !
They are very dangerous machines without a doubt. Always keep your healthy fear of a machine and analyze your methods before performing them. If it doesn't feel right or it doesn't feel safe, don't do it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You are definitely correct with this Allan. The starter pin give you a good solid pivot point and a good solid reference to feed the rounded piece into the bit and avoid any kickback. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment. It's very much appreciated.
Thank you! Just put together my first router table, a Bosch Ra1181, and hoping to use it soon! The pin was on the last page of the manual and it wasn't very clear what it was for so this really helped! Going to subscribe to support your channel! Thanks again!
You can actually purchase something similar to this in Lowes--hardware section, in the section with drawers. They are called spacers. Plastic and metal available in various sizes. But sometimes you just have to give in to your MacGyver instinct.
Great video. Thanks for explaining everything. I was one of the many who didn't know what the starter pin was for. I asked it in the comment of one of your videos about one month ago and then you already gave a perfect reply to my questions (for which I forget to thank you that time, my apologies). it was beyond my expectations that you would dedicate a whole video to this topic. Many years ago (before I knew your YT channel) I made a small router table myself. I had seen some videos how to do it and gave my own twist to it. I used melamine, because it is very smooth, for the top board. I only made a hole in it, through which the router bit peaks out. I didn't use any prefab inlays. At that time, and in fact until one month ago, I haven't seen any video on RUclips where a router table with a starter pin was used, or even heard it mentioned, that it is possible to install on a prefabricated router table inlay. Already for a longer time I feel the need to upgrade my router table, so I hope I'll find the time this coming winter to do so. For sure I will implement a starter pin fixing. In my mind I already have a plan how to make that possible even in a melamine board.
I believe it was your initial questions that put this show idea on my list of shows to produce, so it is I that should be thanking you. Thanks for tuning in this week Hans and for chiming in with your thoughts. I hope you are able to get your table upgraded or modified to make it safer than it might already be.
I would not use as the top layer of my router table in melamine, my i suggest formica wtich is a lot more robust and twice the strenght as melamine. Just a though
First of all, excellent explanation and safety advice about why you should use a starter pin 👍 I've never had a starter pin because I don't have a router table, however I have on occasion bolted the router to a panel so I can use it as a table. When starting a cut like this I'm especially careful, however I never feed the wood into the bit the entire depth of cut, I always feed the wood in slightly and cut for a couple of inches, pull back and then feed deeper into the bit, only cutting at full depth when I've made contact with the bearing. With larger bits I always do multiple passes, easier on you/router and gives a better finish.
@@josiahhalverson supporting your router work with a fence is the ultimate in safe practices on the router table. The router pin is for free form routing, usually with pieces that are not suited for use against a fence (curved pieces, oddly shaped pieces etc) If you are using a router fence for your straight pieces, you are doing it right. If you are free hand routing without a starter pin, you are asking for trouble. I hope this clears it up. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
ohh my... I love the videos where they explain how the disaster gonna happen without some magical thing - for example this starter pin. never used it, never got into trouble.
There are those that go through their whole woodworking career, never using safety features and never having an accident. Using safety equipment isn't a guarantee that you won't have an accident, but not using it gives you a better chance of having one. I hope you continue to be accident free. Thanks for tuning in.
There is a playlist on the main page of my channel dedicated to router projects and router related shows. I will add some more to the list and see what I can come up with. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your show suggestion. It's appreciated.
Very good instructional video. Here is why they don’t get used. Not criticizing, this is just what happens. A person opens the box, sees the pin and because they don’t know what it is, it goes back in the box. They don’t look at the manual. And unless someone shows them, like this video, they don’t know what it is and don’t therefore use it.
I couldn't agree more Scott. There are plenty of accessories that come with tools that get left in the case or in the original packaging because the user doesn't know any better. I hope this video serves it purpose and has folks using their starter pins from now on. Thanks for tuning in.
Amazon has .25x20 fulcrum pins in a two pack for $7.99... No reason not to have pin... make one or buy one but have one... Nice video and instruction... Thanks and God Bless...
After watching this show I went back and watched your top 10 safety tips for the lathe, I remember watching it and going nope, never getting a lathe. It looks relaxing using a lathe. Not sure if you would do a lathe tutorial, and also how do you sharpen gouges? Just bringing it up as an idea for a future show. I would like to at least give it a try someday, and hopefully safely own a lathe
I've done several tutorials on lathe projects and a tutorial on sharpening a roughing gouge Randy. The worst part about working on the lathe is getting a catch while you are learning. Catches are scary things and they absolutely scare the living @#$% out of me. But that is going to happen even with seasoned veteran turners so it's just part of the craft. Thanks for tuning in to the show this week and for the future show ideas.
Great show Ken, I appreciate you taking the time for shop safety. I enjoy your content but now and then we need to stop and review safe shop practices. As we get older and continue with wood working it’s very easy to get complacent in the shop because we get comfortable with routine tasks. I’m a big believer in making sure I always wear my PPE, dust systems are running and in good shape and keep my mind on task etc BUT, it’s always nice to view safety videos from other people so you can get a refresher or even learn new things. Thanks again for all you do for us! Take care my friend and stay safe.
I'm glad that you liked the show Earl. It never hurts to have a reminder and it also never hurts to hear someone else's perspective on safety. Sometimes, they say or demonstrate something that we may never have thought of. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words.
It's another position to pivot your piece from Doug. This could be used in climb routing applications but for the most part, I prefer not to use it at all. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Learned something here - thank you. My router table insert did come with a pin but I've never used it. What would be the advantage of using the pin vs using the fence (so it's flush with the bearing)?
The safer method is to use the fence but sometimes, due to the shape of the piece that is being routed, the fence method isn't possible so the router pin is the next best thing. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for tuning in.
Thanks Kenny for your very informative video as yet I don't have a router table but out of interest could you the router table fence using a backer board and push block instead of the router pin on the endgrain ? Just incase I get a router table. Thanks for your informative videos
You could do this Paul but sometimes, the thinner profile of the end grain just isn't enough to be supported safely on the fence. A coping sled would definitely be an option there as well. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
This answers the question which material I´m gonna use for the insert of the router table. Metal of course, maybe steel to have a good thread, better than aluminium...hm... but how do I get the big hole for the router bit in the steel... hmmm...
The router pin doesn't need to be held in steel. There isn't a lot of pressure on the pin and it is meant to be a guide for the stock. Steel would be just fine but if there is another material that would work better for cutting the hole, that would be fine as well. Thanks for tuning in this week.
I bought my router table decades ago. They must not have known about starter pins then because there isn't even a hole for one. I will be fixing that. Thanks
router pins have been around for a very long time. The problem is that some manufacturers didn't get on board with that until much later. I hope you are able to add one to your setup. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
No. In fact, it is a safer way to use the bit. If your bits are burning your wood, you need to sharpen or replace them. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
I don't have a specific starter pin that I would recommend. They are all pretty much the same as long as the threads are compatible with your router table. A shop made one is just as good and just as effective as a store bought one. They key is to actually use them and the manufacturer isn't that important. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
What are the 1/2 spacer bushings from? Maybe for ice cream scoop or shaving brush? The deluxe pen mandrel on Lee Valley looks nice. Your videos are the best. I fall behind but try to catch all of them. Always a treat.
Is a starter pin good for additional support on a climb cut (considered as a means of eliminating horrendous blowout on a curved endgrain piece while template routing with a good flush-trim bit)?
For starters, climb routing is a dangerous procedure no matter how you do it David but it is a procedure that is sometimes necessary (as you stated) to eliminate tear-out. A starter pin would definitely help get the stock fed into the router bit safely. The starter pin would have to be on the other side of the bit though, feeding from left to right. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Thanks. My bit has top and bottom bearings, and I may try switching the template to the other side, which raises alignment issues from one side to the other. All I know is the tearout is scary and probably dangerous.
Definitely. It would give a solid support and pivot point to rotate the piece into the bit so that the bearing could come in contact with the template. From there, once the template is in contact with the bearing, you would just rout it normally without the aid of the pin. The pin just supports the work and prevents kickback until the bearing makes contact. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi Kenny . My triton router table which i have for over 10 years did'nt come with a hole for a starter pin do you suggst that i drill a hole and tap it to take a starter pin. Yours, number one fan charlie Keep thoes videos coming the inoformation we get is great. Best of irish luck to you ☘☘☘☘☘
If your Triton doesn't have the option for a pin, then I would definitely install one. As you stated, it's as easy as installing a threaded insert into the table. Good luck with your modification and safe routing. Thanks for tuning in Charlie.
This is definitely an option and it is an extremely safe one but it isn't always possible to rout the piece you want with that type of setup. Sometimes, freehand routing is the only option and when that is the case, the router pin is your best friend. If you have the capability to rout your piece by setting your bit in the fence with the bearing flush to the fence, then by all means, do it. That method is actually safer than a router pin because the bit never has the possibility to be sucked into the back side of the bit. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your thoughts.
There is a middle ground. As others have stated, sometimes you need more room than allowed by a fence. Woodpecker makes a tool that fits on a router table around the bit and is halfway between a fence and a starter pin, it is called a Freehand Guard. However, even that is too restrictive at times and an open bit and starter pin are sometimes your only choice.
How does using a starter pin relate to using the fence? I’ve been using the fence, sometimes with a backer board for support and to prevent tear out. Is the pin more safe than that set up? I recently upgraded a home made table that I bought second hand. I installed a lessen lift, that comes with a starter pin, and want to get the most out of it with the highest degree of safety. Thanks. You’re a new find for me, and I subscribed.
Bobby, the safer method in router table use is definitely using the bearing guided bit in conjunction with the fence. This prevents all cases of kickback by not allowing the work piece to ever come in contact with the back of the bit. However, sometimes, the fence setup isn't possible due to the shape or size of a piece being routed. That is when the pin comes into play. Feeding a piece of stock into a spinning bit freehand without any support should never be done due to the danger of kickback on from the router. The starter pin greatly reduces the risk of any kickback by providing a positive support while pivoting the stock into the spinning bit. When you can, use the fence but when you can't, use the starter pin. NEVER freehand rout on the router table. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and subscribing. Glad to have your aboard as a viewer.
Definitely would help Brian. Its purpose it to support the piece and give a steady and solid pivot point for the wood to rotate into the blade. The shape of the piece that you are routing makes no difference. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
i had to stop the video and go and look at my router table it does not have holes for starter pin i have some mods to do on the table now good instructional video thank you
The modifications for this are pretty simple Keith. A threaded insert of any thread size will do the job nicely as long as it is flush with the surface of the table. Thanks for tuning in.
It works in the exact same way as if it were mounted on the right hand side. It is not used as much as the right hand side for me but if you were working from the back side of the table, it gives you a support to start with. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Glad to see you making this video. Using one scares the X@#$ out of me so for the last 25 years I've stayed away from it. This is due to not understanding the proper way to do it, but now I would like to give it a try. My router table and insert are both homemade (by me) and lacking a starter pin hole, so my question is, is there a standard distance (or possibly a min and max) the hole should be from the router bit centre line? Thanks very much.
This is a great question and to be honest, I had no idea how to answer it. So I went out to the shop after work today and measured mine. 2-3/8" (60.3mm) from the centre of the starter pin, to the centre of the router bit. Is this a standard? I have no idea but the setup works well and is tested true so I hope it works for you. Good luck with your modification and thanks for tuning in.
Another hint, never start on corners; even with a pin it can create a real problem. Start a couple of inches in from the corner, get it under control and back it into the corner.
I'm going to have to disagree with this one as "backing it into the corner" as you state, is nothing more than a form of climb routing which should be avoided as much as possible due to the rotation of the bit and the chance of kickback from the router. If that's the method that works for you, then by all means use it but be careful. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your thoughts.
Introduction: 3:41 problem of end grain 4:45 start pin introducing Lenthwise routing: 6:35 start pin in action 7:10 view from above in action End grain routing: 8:09 perform
I love the explanation but question why you’d do that at all. You negate the use of the dust collection and wouldn’t you just use the fence anyway to mitigate the “catch” and to use the dust collection integrated into the fence.
You make a good point Curtis and while the safest way is to use the fence, the pin is meant to be used for freehand routing on pieces that can not be used on the fence. Oddly shaped pieces or pieces that are not flat on the routed side. My demonstration of this pin was done with a flat piece and that was merely for demonstration purposes. While the router pin is a very important piece of router table safety equipment, using the fence in conjunction with a bearing guided bit is always the safest method. Thanks for tuning in.
What exactly would you like to know about the geometry. This was a demonstration of how to use it and why you should use it. I was getting into technical aspects to keep it more accessible to newcomers to the craft. Thanks for tuning in though. I hope you were able to take something positive away from the show.
Using the bearing in line with the fence is the safest way for sure. Using the starter pin is more for when the fence is not an option, when you don't have a fence or when the piece is of an irregular shape. The starter pin is a safer way to prevent having to free hand rout any project. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
I'm glad to hear that. Most manufacturers seem to assume that the consumer already knows about it and most users neglect to learn about it. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your comment
While the safety emphasis is great, this misses the point of using a starter pin. For contouring a straight edge, it’s always better to align the bit roller bearing with the face of your fence. That is safer and dust collection is MUCH better. However, if you want to do a round over (or chamfer, etc) on a CURVE, then the starter pin does the job. Especially a concave or compound curve. IMHO it’s still a scary option and I’d prefer to use a handheld router. Edit to add: I forgot about routing the *inside* of a piece, such as a circle cutout, speaker opening, etc.
I will agree that using the fence is always the safest way to work on your router table when using a bearing guided bit, there are those that don't have a fence with their router table and for those folks, the best solution (other than getting a fence) would be to avoid freehand routing altogether and to always use a starter pin when feeding their piece into the spinning bit. Of course you should use whatever method you are comfortable with. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your comments.
@@acutabove_woodworkings ...coming as I do from a pretty intense medical background ( respiratory therapist - US ARMY Burn Unit / Burn flight team ) im pretty certain there wouldn't be much left to reattach.
Using a bearing guided bit in conjunction with the fence is by far, the safest way to rout anything on the router table. However, the router pin is used for those times with using the fence isn't possible. Like when your piece doesn't have straight edges or is an odd shape. If you are routing an oval shaped piece, it's pretty much impossible to use the fence and get good results. Therefore, you have to freehand rout and that's where the router pin comes in to get you a starting point and to support the oval while getting that starting point started. While I demonstrated with a straight piece of stock, a better demonstration would have been to rout something other than that. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
I highly doubt that Amazon would carry the router starter pins. That being said, did you watch the entire video? Because I demonstrate how to make your own at the end of the video and it takes about 5 minutes to make one. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you very much for this guide.
I recently purchased a Whiteside Ultimate Flush Trim bit which is the biggest and most aggressive cutter I've ever owned.
I used it for the first time last week and it threw the board and template right out of my hand because I had no fence or starter pin, I didn't even know what a starter pin was until I did more research and found your video. This really should be something taught more, 731 woodworks did the exact same mistake as me and it threw the board out of his hands.
The router table can be a very dangerous tool to play with. Exposed cutters about a table surface is always a bad idea but it is a necessary evil to allow us to continue our craft. The starter pin is a great way to avoid those injuries and near misses. Will it protect you 100%? No. Nothing will but it will definitely increase your chances for a safe operation of the tool. A healthy fear and respect of the cutter and a firm knowledge of the safety devices to use will also help. I recognized the lack of training when people started asking me what that pin was on my router table or asking what the threaded holes were for in my table insert. I knew then that it was time to produce a video on it. I only wish you had seen the video as a pro-active measure instead of a reactive one. Glad to hear that you weren't injured. Wood can be replaced, fingers can't. Stay safe. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for that. Even after a whole lifetime of carpentry and construction work, , no one ever explained the correct use and purpose for the started pin.
Well I hope that you will use the starter pin from this point forward Greg. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Absolutely Brilliant - perfect explanation of the use of a "Starter" pin.
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Now I understand the function and use of the starter pin! Thank-you!
Glad that you were able to take something positive away from the show Terry. Thanks for tuning in.
Was just cleaning up a table I had gotten and after your video I'm better educated in the use of the starter pin. Thak you!
Glad that you were able to take something positive away from the show. Thanks for tuning in.
I was so fortunate to have an instructor who would not allow me to use any of his woodworking tools until we went through safety operations and then I performed each technique he had showed me, while he observed. Thank You Mark Spagnolo, better known as "The Wood Whisperer." I agree you visiting other work shops few use the pin. On two occasions the wood on the saw began to bind and I tried to push just a bit harder, realizing a kick back was evident I immediately hit the off button. Mr. Spagnolo was so pleased with my reactions and decided to cut the piece with a band saw then reduce the size of the wood with the tablesaw.. Thank you so much for sharing. It is great to be reminded of safety.
Sounds like you had yourself a great teacher. I wish everyone had that opportunity. Thanks for tuning in and for sharing your story. It's appreciated.
I agree Kenny I don’t get it either! This is a perfect example of why I believe your channel is so important! If only one person heeds this simple advice and prevents a serious accident all was worth the effort! Thanks for all you do!
I couldn't agree more Bob. It just takes one and the show was worth while. Thanks for tuning in this week. No need to thank me.....I truly love what I do and the pleasure is all mine.
I was never shown about this pin and have been free handing everything and always have this gut feeling waiting for the bite to happen. I'm going to use the pin and aim for the middle of the bearing for the start. Thank you very much for this video!
If you are routing on straight pieces, a better setup is to use a router table fence and align it with your bearing so that the fence is guiding your piece through the bit but if you don't have that setup and need to use freehand, the pin will definitely make it safer for you. Thanks for tuning in.
I don't have a router table, but if I did...I would surely use a starter pin. safety first. Great Show! Take care!
Glad that you liked it Michael. I hope you do get a router table eventually. Thanks for tuning in.
I just switched out my router table router and was going through the spare parts and found a small black pin. The manual didn’t identify the part so I just stored it. Today I found your video by accident. OMG! This was so helpful. All the years I’ve hated the router table because of the kickbacks and you just showed me what I was doing wrong. Thank you so much for this excellent video.😊
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you were able to take something positive away from this video and bring some confidence back to your router table use. Thanks for tuning in.
Timely information for me! I am in the process of building a router table. Thank you so much!
You're very welcome. I'm glad that you found the show to be helpful. Thanks for tuning in Christian.
Very nicely explained. You are an excellent teacher. Thank you.
Thank you for the kind words. I'm glad that you were able to take something positive away from the show. Thank you for tuning in.
Thank you for this video....cannot find my starter pin and your solutions for making one is priceless!
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in and good luck on your starter pin construction.
been using a router screwed to a board and now have a proper table on end of my table saw, for over 40 years and today i finally learn what that pin that sits on top of my fence with a magnet is fore, i have had kick backs quite a few times. so god bless you for the info, take care
While the pin will not completely eliminate that possibility of kickback on the router table Martin, it will definitely go a long way to preventing it. Using the fence is still the safest way to use the router table but when freehand routing on the table, the starter pin is the only safe option. Thanks for tuning in.
This is one of the most valuable videos on RUclips! As a retired Industrial Arts (AKA "shop") teacher, I found myself almost jumping up and down, pumping fist in the air, and yelling, "YES! YES!" because I have witnessed so many people rather nonchalantly chucking up a router bit and just cranking on without that starter pin. Your video shows even the most stubborn woodworker how important that pin can be. Let's keep all our digits intact!
Keep it up, brother!
Thank you for the kind words and for your service as a shop teacher (I haven't heard anyone call it Industrial Arts for a long time). I got my love of woodworking at a young age and have been doing it since I was 10. I'm 56 now and still going and I can honestly say that I had a lot of inspiration from my shop teachers both in grade school and high school and I still have a lot of those projects in my house today. The starter pin is quite simply, the easiest and simplest safety device in the shop and yet, no one knows what it is for or how to use it. A simple threaded pin that can save your fingers from a catastrophic injury or amputation. Why wouldn't you use it? I hope that others see the value in this video and that it provides them with the knowledge to keep themselves safe. Feel free to share this video if you wish. Thank you so much for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your thoughts. It's truly appreciated.
You can also make yourself some wider starter pins up to the size of hockey pucks. These will help in getting smaller work pieces closer to the spindle without it grabbing or vibrating. Safety first! 👍
Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your suggestion. It's appreciated.
great information and demonstration. I build electric guitars and routing is a huge part of the process. Running a body around the full 360 degree of the shape template takes up the entire router table with frequent start and stop. This Starter Pin will now be added to my machine!
Depending on the grain direction, when routing instruments bodies, it can be important to climb router in order to avoid blowout and tear-out on the routing. During this process, router pins are even more important. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your comment. It's appreciated
Very informative and comprehensive! Absent a starter pin lower that round over bit and make many incremental passes.
While this is a safer method of routing, it still has its risks. Freehand routing (in my opinion) should never be done on the router table. Installing a starter pin is such and easy modification to make. Thanks for tuning in Bill and for chiming in with your thoughts.
I prefer to use the fence rather than the pin. I set the fence to be at the front of the bearing. This also allows the fence to remove most of the dust with the dust collector running.
I fully agree with you on this one. Using the fence is, without a doubt the safest way to use a bearing guided bit however, for those without fences or for routing oddly shaped items that require freehand routing, the starter pin is the way to go. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your thoughts.
I had no idea. I am designing my new table on cad with wood and 3d printed parts. I didnt know this existed. I will now leave tube and design in the fittings for two starter pins. Thanks
Glad to hear that you are adding the starter pin. You won't regret it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you so much. I too will start soon using/learning to use my first router and I was intrigued about the use of the Starter Pin that came with it.
For routing square pieces, using the fence in line with a bearing guided router bit is always the safest method but for oddly shaped pieces where you need to rout without the fence, the router pin is the best practice. Good luck with your new router table and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Good video. This may save a lot of fingers!
There are far too many people who don't know what that pin is for. I felt it was time to enlighten them and save those fingers. I'm glad that you liked the video. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks a million for this usefull video.
I have a starter pin on my router table but I didn't know how to use it. To be honest I didn't even know what was the purpose of this "extra part".
I experienced a kickback a few weeks ago during the trimming of a guitar body along a template with a trimming bit. It happened exactly as you describe. At the moment the body encountered the bit.
I don't know how this could be but at the end nor the bit, myself and the working piece suffered from this experience. (lucky me)
And thanks to you I see now how I could avoid this to happen again !
I'm glad that you weren't injured but am also glad that you now have the knowledge to help prevent router table kickback in the future. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your story. it's appreciated.
Lots of great information, when I get around to making a router table I'll remember this. Thank you Kenny.
You're very welcome Mark. Thanks for tuning in.
I.just want to thank you for 5he information on the starter pin .I'm repairing a old bench top unit it's probably not worth the effort but now I can add a starter pin since it never had one have a great holiday
All the best to you and yours for the holiday season. Good luck with your repair and the addition of a starter pin. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you Kneey great video about the forgotten pin.
You're very welcome Henry. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Good video to highlight a vital safety point. I have a homemade table but no pin. I just use my homemade router fence and clamp a block to it. does the job but I am fitting a threaded insert to take a starter pin which will bolt insides a couple of skateboard bearings.
As long as there is something in place to support your stock. That's the important thing. Thanks for tuning in this week.
Thank you so much for explaining what the starter pin does! I knew my router table came with one but I’d never seen anyone explain why and how they are used. I could have used it on a project I was working on last week. Now to see if I can find mine!
If you can't find yours Larry, at least make one. They are so important when it comes to the safe use of a router table. Thanks for tuning in.
For people without a lathe, you can buy a “spacer” at the hardware store. And if your homemade router table does not have a place to screw it in, drill a hole and add a 1/4x20 threaded insert.
Great information Scott. Thanks for chiming in with that. It's very much appreciated.
I just experienced this problem yesterday God i had mad a huge step back when it happen the kick back could be very dangerous...very brilliant thank you for sharing I didn't know about this thing... Clever !
Jeez Michel, I hope you are okay. Thanks for tuning in and please be safe.
Great bit of information. I will be installing a router pin on my home-made router table. I might use some bearings since I have some in the cupboard.
As long as they are sturdy and give you a strong pivot point to support the stock and feed it into the router bit, you should be fine. Thanks for tuning in and good luck on your modification.
Hi Kenny, thanks so much for this instructions on how to use a starter pin, and also safety tips. As always great information, thanks.
You're very welcome. I'm glad you liked it. Thanks for tuning in.
What a wonderful lesson : I have been always been intimidated by the Router and the router table...But your video has really helped me in learning how to use it safely. Thank you !
They are very dangerous machines without a doubt. Always keep your healthy fear of a machine and analyze your methods before performing them. If it doesn't feel right or it doesn't feel safe, don't do it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great feature this starter pin is even better if you need to put a moulded edge to a circular piece of wood
You are definitely correct with this Allan. The starter pin give you a good solid pivot point and a good solid reference to feed the rounded piece into the bit and avoid any kickback. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment. It's very much appreciated.
I received router kick back several times and the wooden piece also ruined. Thanks for sharing knowledge ❤
Sorry to hear about the kickback. I hope you weren't injured. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Excellent video on starter pins 👍
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you! Just put together my first router table, a Bosch Ra1181, and hoping to use it soon! The pin was on the last page of the manual and it wasn't very clear what it was for so this really helped! Going to subscribe to support your channel! Thanks again!
I'm glad that you found the video to be useful. Good luck with your new router table and thanks for tuning in to the show.
Best explanation I've seen, thank you!
You're very welcome Tim. I'm glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
You can actually purchase something similar to this in Lowes--hardware section, in the section with drawers. They are called spacers. Plastic and metal available in various sizes. But sometimes you just have to give in to your MacGyver instinct.
That's good to know. Thanks for chiming in with that information and for tuning in to the show. It's appreciated.
Dude. I haven’t even seen the video yet but I love your shop. It looks like mine. It’s nice to see that out here
Glad that you like the shop and I hope you enjoy the show Aaron. Thanks for tuning in this week.
Great video. Thanks for explaining everything. I was one of the many who didn't know what the starter pin was for. I asked it in the comment of one of your videos about one month ago and then you already gave a perfect reply to my questions (for which I forget to thank you that time, my apologies). it was beyond my expectations that you would dedicate a whole video to this topic. Many years ago (before I knew your YT channel) I made a small router table myself. I had seen some videos how to do it and gave my own twist to it.
I used melamine, because it is very smooth, for the top board. I only made a hole in it, through which the router bit peaks out. I didn't use any prefab inlays.
At that time, and in fact until one month ago, I haven't seen any video on RUclips where a router table with a starter pin was used, or even heard it mentioned, that it is possible to install on a prefabricated router table inlay. Already for a longer time I feel the need to upgrade my router table, so I hope I'll find the time this coming winter to do so. For sure I will implement a
starter pin fixing. In my mind I already have a plan how to make that possible even in a melamine board.
I believe it was your initial questions that put this show idea on my list of shows to produce, so it is I that should be thanking you. Thanks for tuning in this week Hans and for chiming in with your thoughts. I hope you are able to get your table upgraded or modified to make it safer than it might already be.
I would not use as the top layer of my router table in melamine, my i suggest formica wtich is a lot more robust and twice the strenght as melamine. Just a though
@@TheDublin47 Thanks for the tip. I'll keep it in mind.
First of all, excellent explanation and safety advice about why you should use a starter pin 👍
I've never had a starter pin because I don't have a router table, however I have on occasion bolted the router to a panel so I can use it as a table.
When starting a cut like this I'm especially careful, however I never feed the wood into the bit the entire depth of cut, I always feed the wood in slightly and cut for a couple of inches, pull back and then feed deeper into the bit, only cutting at full depth when I've made contact with the bearing.
With larger bits I always do multiple passes, easier on you/router and gives a better finish.
Taking light passes until you get to the full depth of the bit is good practice Barry.. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your methods.
If not using a pin, are you supporting with a fence?
@@josiahhalverson supporting your router work with a fence is the ultimate in safe practices on the router table. The router pin is for free form routing, usually with pieces that are not suited for use against a fence (curved pieces, oddly shaped pieces etc) If you are using a router fence for your straight pieces, you are doing it right. If you are free hand routing without a starter pin, you are asking for trouble. I hope this clears it up. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
ohh my... I love the videos where they explain how the disaster gonna happen without some magical thing - for example this starter pin. never used it, never got into trouble.
There are those that go through their whole woodworking career, never using safety features and never having an accident. Using safety equipment isn't a guarantee that you won't have an accident, but not using it gives you a better chance of having one. I hope you continue to be accident free. Thanks for tuning in.
Great piece, I had no idea. Thank you!
Glad that you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
oh... that's what that's for. good tip!
Glad that you were able to take something positive away from the show Don. Thanks for tuning in.
Very well explained, thank you.
You're very welcome Paul. I hope you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
All I can say is thank you very much
You're very welcome Victor. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Great video. Clear and concise. How about more router table stuff? The fence? 😊
There is a playlist on the main page of my channel dedicated to router projects and router related shows. I will add some more to the list and see what I can come up with. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your show suggestion. It's appreciated.
Very good instructional video.
Here is why they don’t get used. Not criticizing, this is just what happens. A person opens the box, sees the pin and because they don’t know what it is, it goes back in the box. They don’t look at the manual. And unless someone shows them, like this video, they don’t know what it is and don’t therefore use it.
I couldn't agree more Scott. There are plenty of accessories that come with tools that get left in the case or in the original packaging because the user doesn't know any better. I hope this video serves it purpose and has folks using their starter pins from now on. Thanks for tuning in.
Amazon has .25x20 fulcrum pins in a two pack for $7.99... No reason not to have pin... make one or buy one but have one... Nice video and instruction... Thanks and God Bless...
Thanks for the information Joel and for the kind words. I appreciate you tuning in to the show
After watching this show I went back and watched your top 10 safety tips for the lathe, I remember watching it and going nope, never getting a lathe. It looks relaxing using a lathe. Not sure if you would do a lathe tutorial, and also how do you sharpen gouges? Just bringing it up as an idea for a future show. I would like to at least give it a try someday, and hopefully safely own a lathe
I've done several tutorials on lathe projects and a tutorial on sharpening a roughing gouge Randy. The worst part about working on the lathe is getting a catch while you are learning. Catches are scary things and they absolutely scare the living @#$% out of me. But that is going to happen even with seasoned veteran turners so it's just part of the craft. Thanks for tuning in to the show this week and for the future show ideas.
Very useful video, thanks a lot!
You're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Great little gadget 😎
Glad that you like it. Thanks for tuning in.
Great show Ken, I appreciate you taking the time for shop safety. I enjoy your content but now and then we need to stop and review safe shop practices. As we get older and continue with wood working it’s very easy to get complacent in the shop because we get comfortable with routine tasks. I’m a big believer in making sure I always wear my PPE, dust systems are running and in good shape and keep my mind on task etc BUT, it’s always nice to view safety videos from other people so you can get a refresher or even learn new things. Thanks again for all you do for us! Take care my friend and stay safe.
I'm glad that you liked the show Earl. It never hurts to have a reminder and it also never hurts to hear someone else's perspective on safety. Sometimes, they say or demonstrate something that we may never have thought of. Thanks for tuning in and for the kind words.
MERCIIIIIIIIIIIII. Vidéo à visionner OBLIGATOIREMENT à touts utilisateurs de défonceuse sous table. MERCI et un abonné supplémentaire 💪💪💪⛑
You're very welcome. Thank you for tuning in and for the kind words. It is very much appreciated. Glad to have you as a subscriber.
I need to learn that quick bit changing trick.
It's a skill that is learned over many years of experience. Keep practicing. LOL. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
thank you . great info for me
Glad that you found it useful Walter. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you this newbie needed this information.
What is the second starter pin location used for?
It's another position to pivot your piece from Doug. This could be used in climb routing applications but for the most part, I prefer not to use it at all. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks appreciate the lesson
You're very welcome. Thanks for tuning in.
Learned something here - thank you. My router table insert did come with a pin but I've never used it. What would be the advantage of using the pin vs using the fence (so it's flush with the bearing)?
The safer method is to use the fence but sometimes, due to the shape of the piece that is being routed, the fence method isn't possible so the router pin is the next best thing. I hope this answers your question. Thanks for tuning in.
Good information
Glad that you liked it Tim. Thanks for tuning in to the show
Thanks Kenny for your very informative video as yet I don't have a router table but out of interest could you the router table fence using a backer board and push block instead of the router pin on the endgrain ? Just incase I get a router table. Thanks for your informative videos
You could do this Paul but sometimes, the thinner profile of the end grain just isn't enough to be supported safely on the fence. A coping sled would definitely be an option there as well. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
This answers the question which material I´m gonna use for the insert of the router table. Metal of course, maybe steel to have a good thread, better than aluminium...hm... but how do I get the big hole for the router bit in the steel... hmmm...
The router pin doesn't need to be held in steel. There isn't a lot of pressure on the pin and it is meant to be a guide for the stock. Steel would be just fine but if there is another material that would work better for cutting the hole, that would be fine as well. Thanks for tuning in this week.
@@acutabove_woodworkings Thx for ur answer!! Helps a lot!
I bought my router table decades ago. They must not have known about starter pins then because there isn't even a hole for one. I will be fixing that. Thanks
router pins have been around for a very long time. The problem is that some manufacturers didn't get on board with that until much later. I hope you are able to add one to your setup. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thank you for that.
You're very welcome. I hope you enjoyed it. Thanks for tuning in.
if i use bearing bit with fence by aligning the bearing’s tangent with the fence, does it increase the burning darken wood possibility
No. In fact, it is a safer way to use the bit. If your bits are burning your wood, you need to sharpen or replace them. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Excellent explanation. Do you recommend a specific starter pin?
I don't have a specific starter pin that I would recommend. They are all pretty much the same as long as the threads are compatible with your router table. A shop made one is just as good and just as effective as a store bought one. They key is to actually use them and the manufacturer isn't that important. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Thanks much! @@acutabove_woodworkings
What are the 1/2 spacer bushings from? Maybe for ice cream scoop or shaving brush? The deluxe pen mandrel on Lee Valley looks nice. Your videos are the best. I fall behind but try to catch all of them. Always a treat.
I believe those spacers are from the razor set if I remember correctly. Glad to hear that you enjoy the show. Thanks for tuning in.
Is a starter pin good for additional support on a climb cut (considered as a means of eliminating horrendous blowout on a curved endgrain piece while template routing with a good flush-trim bit)?
For starters, climb routing is a dangerous procedure no matter how you do it David but it is a procedure that is sometimes necessary (as you stated) to eliminate tear-out. A starter pin would definitely help get the stock fed into the router bit safely. The starter pin would have to be on the other side of the bit though, feeding from left to right. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Thanks. My bit has top and bottom bearings, and I may try switching the template to the other side, which raises alignment issues from one side to the other. All I know is the tearout is scary and probably dangerous.
Would this be useful for jobs where you’re using a template and a flush trim bit?
Definitely. It would give a solid support and pivot point to rotate the piece into the bit so that the bearing could come in contact with the template. From there, once the template is in contact with the bearing, you would just rout it normally without the aid of the pin. The pin just supports the work and prevents kickback until the bearing makes contact. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Hi Kenny . My triton router table which i have for over 10 years did'nt come with a hole for a starter pin do you suggst that i drill a hole and tap it to take a starter pin. Yours, number one fan charlie Keep thoes videos coming the inoformation we get is great. Best of irish luck to you ☘☘☘☘☘
If your Triton doesn't have the option for a pin, then I would definitely install one. As you stated, it's as easy as installing a threaded insert into the table. Good luck with your modification and safe routing. Thanks for tuning in Charlie.
THANK YOU
You're very welcome. I hope you found it useful. Thanks for tuning in.
Why wouldn't I simply bury the bit in in the fence up to the bearing and also take advantage of the dust collection?
This is definitely an option and it is an extremely safe one but it isn't always possible to rout the piece you want with that type of setup. Sometimes, freehand routing is the only option and when that is the case, the router pin is your best friend. If you have the capability to rout your piece by setting your bit in the fence with the bearing flush to the fence, then by all means, do it. That method is actually safer than a router pin because the bit never has the possibility to be sucked into the back side of the bit. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your thoughts.
If you put the bit into the fence, there is no need for a bearing. It's pretty time consuming, also.
Work pieces with a concave bend would require a starter pin. Couldn't route that with a a fence
You use a starter pin mostly when do pattern work or others where you can’t use a fence. Definitely easier to use a fence for what he showed
There is a middle ground. As others have stated, sometimes you need more room than allowed by a fence. Woodpecker makes a tool that fits on a router table around the bit and is halfway between a fence and a starter pin, it is called a Freehand Guard. However, even that is too restrictive at times and an open bit and starter pin are sometimes your only choice.
Imagine the years of trials and accidents until the starter pin was developed. Here's to those lost appendages.
Such a simple device that will continue to save digits as long as folks use it. Thanks for tuning in this week.
How does using a starter pin relate to using the fence? I’ve been using the fence, sometimes with a backer board for support and to prevent tear out. Is the pin more safe than that set up?
I recently upgraded a home made table that I bought second hand. I installed a lessen lift, that comes with a starter pin, and want to get the most out of it with the highest degree of safety.
Thanks. You’re a new find for me, and I subscribed.
Bobby, the safer method in router table use is definitely using the bearing guided bit in conjunction with the fence. This prevents all cases of kickback by not allowing the work piece to ever come in contact with the back of the bit. However, sometimes, the fence setup isn't possible due to the shape or size of a piece being routed. That is when the pin comes into play. Feeding a piece of stock into a spinning bit freehand without any support should never be done due to the danger of kickback on from the router. The starter pin greatly reduces the risk of any kickback by providing a positive support while pivoting the stock into the spinning bit. When you can, use the fence but when you can't, use the starter pin. NEVER freehand rout on the router table. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in and subscribing. Glad to have your aboard as a viewer.
@@acutabove_woodworkings thank you for the reply. This helps a lot
You're very welcome @@bobby-c7731
Would that pin work as well when working with a flat round piece?
Definitely would help Brian. Its purpose it to support the piece and give a steady and solid pivot point for the wood to rotate into the blade. The shape of the piece that you are routing makes no difference. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
i had to stop the video and go and look at my router table it does not have holes for starter pin i have some mods to do on the table now good instructional video thank you
Is your table a commercially made!
yes it is commercially made, bought in the UK about 30 years ago@@bobwebberkc
The modifications for this are pretty simple Keith. A threaded insert of any thread size will do the job nicely as long as it is flush with the surface of the table. Thanks for tuning in.
30 years ago, starter pins were not at the top of the list for router table accessories. Nothing wrong with adding one though.
How does the starter pin work mounted in the other hole?
It works in the exact same way as if it were mounted on the right hand side. It is not used as much as the right hand side for me but if you were working from the back side of the table, it gives you a support to start with. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.
Glad to see you making this video. Using one scares the X@#$ out of me so for the last 25 years I've stayed away from it. This is due to not understanding the proper way to do it, but now I would like to give it a try. My router table and insert are both homemade (by me) and lacking a starter pin hole, so my question is, is there a standard distance (or possibly a min and max) the hole should be from the router bit centre line? Thanks very much.
This is a great question and to be honest, I had no idea how to answer it. So I went out to the shop after work today and measured mine. 2-3/8" (60.3mm) from the centre of the starter pin, to the centre of the router bit. Is this a standard? I have no idea but the setup works well and is tested true so I hope it works for you. Good luck with your modification and thanks for tuning in.
I got skil router where I can on a screen put bit type.
, size, and material and it sets the speed
That sounds awesome. Is that a newer Skil router or an older one? I'm thinking newer technology. Thanks for tuning in.
Another hint, never start on corners; even with a pin it can create a real problem. Start a couple of inches in from the corner, get it under control and back it into the corner.
I'm going to have to disagree with this one as "backing it into the corner" as you state, is nothing more than a form of climb routing which should be avoided as much as possible due to the rotation of the bit and the chance of kickback from the router. If that's the method that works for you, then by all means use it but be careful. Thanks for tuning in and for chiming in with your thoughts.
Introduction:
3:41 problem of end grain
4:45 start pin introducing
Lenthwise routing:
6:35 start pin in action
7:10 view from above in action
End grain routing:
8:09 perform
I'm not sure what you are getting at but thanks for tuning in to the show
Fast reference, sort of contents.
@@priscwy794frag Excellent. Thank you for providing that. It's appreciated.
Muuuuuuuuuchas Gracias.🇵🇪
You are very welcome. Thank you for tuning in to the show.
Gracias.@@acutabove_woodworkings
Another way to make a starter pin without a lathe is use a hole saw and a drill press.
Whatever method works for you. The important thing is that it is used. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your methods.
I love the explanation but question why you’d do that at all. You negate the use of the dust collection and wouldn’t you just use the fence anyway to mitigate the “catch” and to use the dust collection integrated into the fence.
You make a good point Curtis and while the safest way is to use the fence, the pin is meant to be used for freehand routing on pieces that can not be used on the fence. Oddly shaped pieces or pieces that are not flat on the routed side. My demonstration of this pin was done with a flat piece and that was merely for demonstration purposes. While the router pin is a very important piece of router table safety equipment, using the fence in conjunction with a bearing guided bit is always the safest method. Thanks for tuning in.
No mention of the geometry between the pin and the router's center point (or anything else for that matter).
What exactly would you like to know about the geometry. This was a demonstration of how to use it and why you should use it. I was getting into technical aspects to keep it more accessible to newcomers to the craft. Thanks for tuning in though. I hope you were able to take something positive away from the show.
Why not put the bearing flush with the fence and use the fence as the support when you need it.
Using the bearing in line with the fence is the safest way for sure. Using the starter pin is more for when the fence is not an option, when you don't have a fence or when the piece is of an irregular shape. The starter pin is a safer way to prevent having to free hand rout any project. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
Actually, im just looking thru the manual for the Skil 1039 table combo - it DOES have information about the starter pin.
I'm glad to hear that. Most manufacturers seem to assume that the consumer already knows about it and most users neglect to learn about it. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your comment
While the safety emphasis is great, this misses the point of using a starter pin. For contouring a straight edge, it’s always better to align the bit roller bearing with the face of your fence. That is safer and dust collection is MUCH better. However, if you want to do a round over (or chamfer, etc) on a CURVE, then the starter pin does the job. Especially a concave or compound curve. IMHO it’s still a scary option and I’d prefer to use a handheld router.
Edit to add: I forgot about routing the *inside* of a piece, such as a circle cutout, speaker opening, etc.
I will agree that using the fence is always the safest way to work on your router table when using a bearing guided bit, there are those that don't have a fence with their router table and for those folks, the best solution (other than getting a fence) would be to avoid freehand routing altogether and to always use a starter pin when feeding their piece into the spinning bit. Of course you should use whatever method you are comfortable with. Thanks for tuning in to the show and for chiming in with your comments.
Thanks! i kinda figured this is what it was for but, you know, its a freakin' router! Guessing seems inherently suicidal.
Guessing is a good way to end up in the ER having your fingers reattached. Thanks for tuning in and for taking the time to leave your comment.
@@acutabove_woodworkings ...coming as I do from a pretty intense medical background ( respiratory therapist - US ARMY Burn Unit / Burn flight team ) im pretty certain there wouldn't be much left to reattach.
👍👍👍
Glad that you liked it. Thanks for tuning in.
Why would you use a starter pin instead of a just using the fence?
Using a bearing guided bit in conjunction with the fence is by far, the safest way to rout anything on the router table. However, the router pin is used for those times with using the fence isn't possible. Like when your piece doesn't have straight edges or is an odd shape. If you are routing an oval shaped piece, it's pretty much impossible to use the fence and get good results. Therefore, you have to freehand rout and that's where the router pin comes in to get you a starting point and to support the oval while getting that starting point started. While I demonstrated with a straight piece of stock, a better demonstration would have been to rout something other than that. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in.
It is et cetera
Thank you for the unsolicited English lesson and for tuning in to the show.
Or you could just use the bolt.
You could definitely just use the bolt. The threads however, could mar the surface of your project. Thanks for tuning in and for the suggestion.
5 minutes to make or 5 minutes telephoning a ambulance.
I think the choice is pretty darn clear Paul. Thanks for tuning in.
complete noobie with everything but the pin , where in e.u can i buy it , amazon is hiding them
I highly doubt that Amazon would carry the router starter pins. That being said, did you watch the entire video? Because I demonstrate how to make your own at the end of the video and it takes about 5 minutes to make one. I hope this helps. Thanks for tuning in to the show.