After a couple of messages with Anycubic, they sent me a new Y axis motor and a new motherboard. My printer is at 17 hours of a 32 hours print, no more skipping, where I had random 10mm+ shifts on the Y axis
@Psychokiller1888 yeah I figured it was the board. I swapped the y axis motor, slowed down the print, tightened and recalibrated all the moving parts for the y axis. Anycubic offered me a motherboard and didn't send it with the motor. Ended up getting a refund and buying another
when I had layer shift on mine which was huge the problem was the brackets at the top of the Z axis on both sides. They should be at 90 degrees to the gantry but they were slightly loose and so they turned slightly inward. That seemed to make the Z axis canted just slightly which was enough that the head would eventually hit the print because it wasn't climbing as much vertically as it was on the Z screws since they were canted and that was what was throwing it off. I made sure the brackets were aligned properly and tightened them down and it solved that problem completely for me
Mine's about 2 weeks old. Its reached about a hundred hours too and started doing _absolutely massive_ layer shifts on the y axis. Im about ready to return the damn thing...
I'd exchange it. Apparently, the issue is hit or miss. The printer is great when it's working. Im worried we may prep for another con where i need to use it heavily and it'll crap out again.
Same here, bit under 100 hours, massive 15mm Y axis shifts at random heights. I completly dismantled everything today, rebuilt the entire Y axis, calibrated, it pri Ted up to 70 mm OK then shifted like crap. I about the throw it out the window
Having fought layer shift on my kobra 2 I know the pain you're going through. I noticed that in my case it began to get significantly more frequent before the Y axis fully bit the dust and the main board has to be replaced. Found the Y axis vref was set VERY high on the old and new boards and I suspect this is to allow for the higher print speeds but I don't believe that this is the best approach. My board uses GC6609 drivers which my searches have shown to be low current clones of TMC2208 drivers and this, I think, is the root of the problem. To get the higher speeds the bed must move faster which means a stronger motor which means higher Y current is needed. But the drivers just can't keep up with the motor's needs and go toes up. I think genuine TMC2209 drivers, or driver's that can go higher than 2A for sustained periods, plus a stronger Y motor would solve this problem. I can only guess anycubic went the route they did to save costs but I HAVE to believe they are spending more on warranty work and replacement parts than they would in a properly specc'd driver/motor combo. I might be completely wrong however but once this replacement board dies, and I am positive it will, I'll replace with a manta m5p and go full klipper. Mechanically these are great printers but the boards and firmware leave a lot to be desired.
I definitely think the issue is mechanical or electrical and not hardware. They recommended based off this video that my eccentric nuts aren't properly tightened on the y. I'll give it a shot and see how that effects it. Ill post another video with updates
@@ShadowMoses112 When the Y started shifting on me it got really bad really quickly until the Y just died entirely. Driver IC kicked it and had to replace the mailboard.
@@Enjoymentboy Do you have any steps on how to adjust this for folks possibly having the same issue? I wouldn't mind making another video that may help
@@shadowmosesmusic RUclips channel Print Practical has a great video on it (3d printer stepper driver vref) and the description is linked to an online calculator to find your specific vref. I've used it for multiple printers and it works perfectly. Bear in mind this is all possible if your board allows it. Look at the driver IC on the board and if you see a small potentiometer beside it that means you can manually adjust. Apparently the newer boards (klipper versions) don't have this and the vref is hard set in the firmware. Assuming yours has the potentiometers you only need a multimeter, small Phillips screwdriver and an alligator clip test lead. First thing to do is unplug the connectors from the motors. All of them. Failure to do so can damage the board. Next put one end of the alligator clip on the positive test lead and the other end on the screwdriver. Power the printer on. Negative test lead goes to the negative of the 12V/24v power supply to the board. Screwdriver (positive lead) goes to the potentiometer. Make very small adjustments until the multimeter reads the vref value you calculated. For example I calculated 1.29V for my Y axis but it was reading 1.76V so I turned the potentiometer counterclockwise until the meter read 1.29V. I actually hit 1.3V because that's as close as my fat thumbs could get to. It doesn't have to be dead on... just close. I did this for every axis based on what vref the calculator showed. It's WAY easier to do than to write and you can do all axis in less time than it took to read this
Hi there, I have the same kind of problem, and right now I belive it's the sg15 ball bearings where the extruder goes from left to right, it's small wabble that I can't get rid of whit the nut. It's just an idea tho
After a couple of messages with Anycubic, they sent me a new Y axis motor and a new motherboard. My printer is at 17 hours of a 32 hours print, no more skipping, where I had random 10mm+ shifts on the Y axis
@Psychokiller1888 yeah I figured it was the board. I swapped the y axis motor, slowed down the print, tightened and recalibrated all the moving parts for the y axis. Anycubic offered me a motherboard and didn't send it with the motor. Ended up getting a refund and buying another
when I had layer shift on mine which was huge the problem was the brackets at the top of the Z axis on both sides. They should be at 90 degrees to the gantry but they were slightly loose and so they turned slightly inward. That seemed to make the Z axis canted just slightly which was enough that the head would eventually hit the print because it wasn't climbing as much vertically as it was on the Z screws since they were canted and that was what was throwing it off. I made sure the brackets were aligned properly and tightened them down and it solved that problem completely for me
Mine's about 2 weeks old. Its reached about a hundred hours too and started doing _absolutely massive_ layer shifts on the y axis. Im about ready to return the damn thing...
I'd exchange it. Apparently, the issue is hit or miss. The printer is great when it's working. Im worried we may prep for another con where i need to use it heavily and it'll crap out again.
Same here, bit under 100 hours, massive 15mm Y axis shifts at random heights. I completly dismantled everything today, rebuilt the entire Y axis, calibrated, it pri Ted up to 70 mm OK then shifted like crap. I about the throw it out the window
Having fought layer shift on my kobra 2 I know the pain you're going through. I noticed that in my case it began to get significantly more frequent before the Y axis fully bit the dust and the main board has to be replaced. Found the Y axis vref was set VERY high on the old and new boards and I suspect this is to allow for the higher print speeds but I don't believe that this is the best approach. My board uses GC6609 drivers which my searches have shown to be low current clones of TMC2208 drivers and this, I think, is the root of the problem. To get the higher speeds the bed must move faster which means a stronger motor which means higher Y current is needed. But the drivers just can't keep up with the motor's needs and go toes up. I think genuine TMC2209 drivers, or driver's that can go higher than 2A for sustained periods, plus a stronger Y motor would solve this problem. I can only guess anycubic went the route they did to save costs but I HAVE to believe they are spending more on warranty work and replacement parts than they would in a properly specc'd driver/motor combo. I might be completely wrong however but once this replacement board dies, and I am positive it will, I'll replace with a manta m5p and go full klipper. Mechanically these are great printers but the boards and firmware leave a lot to be desired.
I definitely think the issue is mechanical or electrical and not hardware. They recommended based off this video that my eccentric nuts aren't properly tightened on the y. I'll give it a shot and see how that effects it. Ill post another video with updates
@@ShadowMoses112 When the Y started shifting on me it got really bad really quickly until the Y just died entirely. Driver IC kicked it and had to replace the mailboard.
@@Enjoymentboy Do you have any steps on how to adjust this for folks possibly having the same issue? I wouldn't mind making another video that may help
@@shadowmosesmusic RUclips channel Print Practical has a great video on it (3d printer stepper driver vref) and the description is linked to an online calculator to find your specific vref. I've used it for multiple printers and it works perfectly. Bear in mind this is all possible if your board allows it. Look at the driver IC on the board and if you see a small potentiometer beside it that means you can manually adjust. Apparently the newer boards (klipper versions) don't have this and the vref is hard set in the firmware. Assuming yours has the potentiometers you only need a multimeter, small Phillips screwdriver and an alligator clip test lead. First thing to do is unplug the connectors from the motors. All of them. Failure to do so can damage the board. Next put one end of the alligator clip on the positive test lead and the other end on the screwdriver. Power the printer on. Negative test lead goes to the negative of the 12V/24v power supply to the board. Screwdriver (positive lead) goes to the potentiometer. Make very small adjustments until the multimeter reads the vref value you calculated. For example I calculated 1.29V for my Y axis but it was reading 1.76V so I turned the potentiometer counterclockwise until the meter read 1.29V. I actually hit 1.3V because that's as close as my fat thumbs could get to. It doesn't have to be dead on... just close. I did this for every axis based on what vref the calculator showed. It's WAY easier to do than to write and you can do all axis in less time than it took to read this
Hi there, I have the same kind of problem, and right now I belive it's the sg15 ball bearings where the extruder goes from left to right, it's small wabble that I can't get rid of whit the nut. It's just an idea tho
So your issue is along the x? Could be easy to replace the bearings.