Military Generator Forgotten in a Barn ~ Will it START & Make POWER?!? It's a Single Cylinder DIESEL
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2023
- I found this generator on marketplace, and the guy I bought it from said since he couldn't get it running, then I NEVER would! Let's find out if he's right or not!
This little generator is a Military MEP-016b made by Onan. It is a 3KW generator, and has the ability to EASILY and quickly change from generating 120V single phase power to 208V 3 phase power (as well as a few other options!)
When I got this thing it looked like every mouse in the barn decided to make it their home, and it had more bird seed on it than I've seen in some bird feeders! It was NASTY!
Let's dive in and see whether it's going to be a useful little machine or a PILE of JUNK!
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I'm 67 and I have to say that one of the things I get from your channel is that it gets me off my ass and gets me out fixing my own stuff that's been sitting around for years. You're good! I like the way you work.
One thing that you are missing that is very important is the frequency. The frequency must be 60 HZ (Hertz) when not under load. The frequency and voltage are controlled by engine speed. That is why there is an engine speed adjustment. There should also be a governor that will increase the engine speed under load. You should measure the voltages with a multimeter before you connect it to your machinery. Some multimeters can measure the frequency as well. It will show an HZ on the meter selection. You could permanently damage your equipment if you do not set the correct voltage and frequency.
Perfect info.
I have the same Genny. Runs great. But I can't get excitation current to provide any voltage output greater than 17 volts AC. I have the entire Manuel pdf for all three of these models
The frequency should also remain at 60 Hz with a load
@OldFatBubba You are correct. I meant to add that but I failed to do so. Yes I watch James Condon who is with no doubt the generator master.
@@Brrrap743 +/- a couple of Hz.
"the guy I bought it from said since he couldn't get it running, then I NEVER would!" That made me smile! So, thanks for that. I do enjoy watching you go through the motions of making this thing run. Good job!
I can't speak for other branches but we had a few of these when I was AD USAF. I was in a TALCE squadron (Tanker AirLift Control Element) and we would go into airbases that did not have suitable Command & Control setups (anything from established remote asphalt runways to dirt setups in the boonies), so for smaller setups where we didn't need our big C&C control shelter to set up we would send one of these generators along with a small comm suite package. So we could set up secure satcom communications with the HQ in Scott AFB, IL, as well as UHF and VHF radios for talking to planes arriving and departing (we had the ability to set up HF antenna farms as well, but the Walker Spy Ring destroyed our ability to transmit encrypted. So I was told). Beam all that info to HQ until the full amount of cargo was received and then pack it all up and send it off to wherever it needed to go.
These generators are really wonderful. Back then the military designed these things to work practically anywhere and to be able to sustain absolute beatings in the harshest of settings, so it does not surprise me at all that it fired right up after a minimum of effort. Bear in mind I got out in 97' so I'm very rusty on it, but I very much recall the throttle control knob that you could adjust the idle. It was a black plastic/bakelite knob with scalloped edges attached to a long steel rod that connected to the linkages you guys are adjusting on the side. I was one of the COMM guys in the unit and we had a cadre of generator guys as part of our squadron that would come along with us whenever we deployed. The slave socket you examined on the front of the unit could plug into vehicles (if you see an older Hummer or older GMC Blazer military truck you'll see matching sockets near the night vision light on the front grille). In addition to this you can use variations of this cable plug in that would allow you to hard wire the generator into allowing power generation to small outdoor camp arrangements, certain amounts of lighting for A frame tents and such for austere airfield setups in the boonies. The cable would plug in one side on the adapter, and the other end of the cable would break into its component 3 phase wiring arrangement that could hard wire into a small electrical circuit for a small amount of tents. We carried much larger wheeled generators that could power whole tent cities if we arranged them in parallel.
Like I said, I wasn't one of the generator guys and knew only enough to make me dangerous with regards to these units. One small note, I recall the generator guys telling me these had a weird sort of wiring arrangement/color scheme for attaching to hard circuits. There's 4 color wires and they have to go in a specific order to power stuff, remembered by the mnemonic, George Washington Rode Backwards: Green/White/Red/Black. Again, I am VERY rusty. It's been almost 30 years. They are absolutely wonderful and reliable generators and if you ever have a hard power outage due to storms, natural disasters, or the Norks dropping the US power grid, this bad boy is full analog and can power your house for eons, provided you have enough diesel to keep it powered. I am jealous as hell you managed to find one of these hardy units for so very little! I've shared this video with my TALCE buddies and I'm hoping the generator guys (or perhaps even a few of the Comm guys) can come in and help you out with the finer details! Well done, sir! I envy you!!
Also...and I know I'm going to regret this because it has been a *really* long time since I operated one of these units and I could easily be misremembering...but I think the variable idle control was a fine tuning adjustment for the voltage output. I could very well be wrong. But you can test the theory out by having one person monitor the voltage output and the other moving the linkage back and forth to see if it pans out.
Auxillary fuel pump is for running off of a external tank. The brass fitting down by the pump is where that would connect. never move the voltage selectors when the engine is running, and you will need to figure out the hz meter or use a voltmeter to make sure your running 60 hz.
There's a few things on that that match the generator we have on our bucket truck at work. Here's my take on a few of them:
1. The coating on the wires isn't cloth. It's asbestos. I would recommend wrapping them with foil cord wrapping. That's what we did.
2. The slave plug is to run generators in series. They link together to provide more wattage, but also they link together to start each other with 1 battery.
3. you need to set your voltage gain when it's under load. that controls the Hz, and we use 60Hz here in the US. But you can run 3 phase on 70Hz, that's why you were able to run a 240V with 208V.
4. The idle speed switch is missing, but that's not actually needed when the unit is a slave. The idle is controlled by the master. You might want to locate one of those so it will idle down when not under load.
5. You might want to have a tech take a look at it and check the sine wave. If the sine wave is off you take the risk of burning up some electronics...learned that the hard way. RIP brand new LED shop light.
6. When you're looking for parts, check Cummins first. Onon is owned by Cummins so they might have parts. I suggest calling the Cummins in Indianapolis. They're the best around, and really great guys. They'll be able to help you out.
"The smart thing to do would be not to do that again. But, we're going to do that again." And again, and again. But you made it work. Yet another awesome recovery.
The slave receptacle is indeed for 24v connection. It is also used on most nato vehicles to add a quick and easy way to jumpstart them. Most 24v vehicles have an external "pig nose" connector like that for jumpstarting etc.
That is the old Nato 2 wire instead of the new single plug connection that is used in the modern nato equipment
@@farmingsmallkubota1783 I stand corrected thank you. I guess it shows that it's been a little while since I left the green uniform behind 🙂
I have a 4 cylinder version of this from 1986, It's by far the heaviest duty most reliable generator I've ever owned. It ran our entire house and a cord to the neighbor's from Sunday to Sunday around the clock last hurricane season.
That is the most unique piece I've ever seen....what an amazing opportunity for you to showcase your phenomenal restoration skills on. BRAVO yet again. Your part of the world truly does have a love and appreciation for saving these one of a kind masterpieces from the past. Thank you for another satisfying and inspirational video.
I never get tired of watching your channel. An absolute steal on the generator. I would love to have a $150 dollar 3 phase generator. I've got over $800 in my stationary 3 phase 5 hp Rotary phase convertor. And I must have 230 volt single phase to use it. Almost every industrial electric motor is 3 phase so having the ability to field test them is awesome. Great video thanks
It's not always easy to get those old beauties up and running. But boy it sure is satisfying when you do. Can't wait to see you get back to the old woodworking machines someday.
Matt,You might be able to crank the voltage up from 120/208 to 137/240, but you still only have 3 kW. The regulator may do " voltage roll out" if overloaded. This would explain why your band saw start switch had to be held in until the motor came up to speed. If you tried to cut metal, the saw's contactor would probably drop out. As far as the auxiliary pump, that pump is very common on marine generators, both gas and diesel. It looks like it has a shielded power lead so what you thought was a heater is probably an RFI noise filter. The military shields everything. Older Onan marine gas generators ran aircraft style shielded spark plugs so it would not disrupt 2 way marine radio. The auxiliary pump suction is the quick disconnect fitting. The bottom cap will come off with a bayonet style mount revealing a filter. I have also seen the clear plastic breaker cover on what they call a shore power intermediate breaker on pleasure boats with stern connected shore power. A marine supply might be a source. Nice to hear from you again.
I'm with you 100% on keeping your stuff clean,it pays in the end.if you don't treat your mules right,they'll let you down.
Section 2.2 of the TM says the voltage output can be changed to 120-240. The output selector switch is located in the control box. Also we always set the no load frequency to 60.5 Hz unless it was a “precise power” unit.
Never hurts to have a little extra speed to lose a little if the load kicks up; I really don't think you'll see anything much weirder than clocks running a little fast at a ~1% difference
What a good find. With its 3 phase capable operation and a reliable diesel, it’s a heck of a resource when needed. Clean it up a bit more and such and she’s ready for another 30 years of service.
this generator will run forever. Just keep the oil changed, and always use fresh gas. I was responsible for testing out the quiet reliable generators for the 18th Airborne Corps in the Army, back in 1987-88. Military generators are very reliable. I want a 50K when I retire.
With minimal modifications to the battery tray, you can fit a pair of lawn mower batteries in series. $70 in batteries instead of $500.
Was thinking the same thing.
Don't forget to replace the spare fuse. Ironically, you could charge the battery that got it started (if and after you get another battery.)
It's good to see you back again. You have been missed ❤
“Take care of your tools and they’ll take care of you back” immediately following using a razor knife to cut wires..!!! I kid I kid
Great video
Congratulations to the new generator, new to you, and that's what counts. Good to see that your uncle is there to help you. Get a hold of C & C Equipment, They can get all kinds of military parts, vehicles included.
Pro-tec filters are made by Wix.
The 22 is a metric thread size, the13/16ths is about 19 mm in metric.
Cheers Eric
19mm is 0.747 or 3/4". 13/16 is about 20.6mm.
If you want to loom up those wires, use fiberglass, do not use a metal braid, as the braid itself will wear against the wires as the generator runs and vibrates and will cause a massive short.
We had several of these in my shop while in the service. Usually used them if we needed power in a tight spot where we couldn't get a larger generator in or if we went out into the field which we often did. Works great and I wish I had one.
James Condon has a youtube channel. He diagnoses the the generator power head and the engines. I’ve never seen him work on a diesel however. I’ve never seem him stumped on generator a generator powerhead.
For Parts and info - You should be able call up the Manufacturer (Onan Corp), and give them the Model Number and NSN, and they might be able to get you a manual & parts list.
NATO Standard for all Vehicles is 24 Volt - as is the fact that it's Diesel.
WOW, great score! Check voltage output under a load and the frequency. Both very important not to harm anything. Thanks for posting and take care!
That was so great Matt nice generater could not run better thank you for sharing and your time was really great never miss a video and can't wait for next video.
Onan generator parts are available from Cummins, the owning corporation. Probably also pick up a manual... Cheers, man.
The auxilliary fuel pump is a Bendix. I used them for many years on carburetted race cars. I gave a spare one to my neighbour 25 years ago for his Kubota 3 cylinder diesel tractor as a stop gap and as far as I know, it is still working.
What a bargain, 150$ for 3kW 3ph!
Even a single phase one with 3kW would cost more new...
Thx for showing!
👍👍👍
Awesome to watch. Love old diesels. They aren’t picky.
I found a parts breakdown on line. The throttle is just like a simple aircraft throttle. You screw it in for faster, unscrew it for slower. There is a thumb button in the middle of the know that uncouples the threads and allows you to simply push or pull the knob quickly.
F'n autocorrupt that doesn't know the difference between "know" and "knob".
Ah, brings back memories from the military only used 1 that small 1 time most of ours were 20, 30, and 40kw generators and were all trailer generators as electrician and former military user of those machines you definitely want to check the HZ output because all of the ones I was using were 50 and 60Hz capable
Looks like a solid piece of kit, especially for the price! The only suggestion I have to make it more practical is to make permanent what you did temporarily in this video.
Weld up some RHS to make a forkliftable frame, then attach it permanently beneath the existing generator frame. On the bottom of the tubes that the fork tines go into, attach some large diameter puncture proof castor wheels (at least two of them braked). Being ex-military it will already have lifting/tie down points, so you're covered for that.
New workshop looks awesome - no doubt you'll have her running! If it aint seized you got a good chance!
Nice transformation on the front of your shop
Nice piece of equipment to have around, especially the 3 phase aspect, I would’ve, at one time, given most anything for three phase power for some equipment I ran into in the field that I would have liked to tried instead of run when stored. You got your hands on a gem sir. Thanks for the tag along vid, enjoyed it.
That phenomena with the bandsaw is caused by inrush current, it needs probably a 10-15kW capable surge generator to start up reliably, wheres this 3kW genset probably only has a 5-6kW surge capacity.
A second thing is voltage, as the genset is only 208V the voltage during startup drops below the pull and hold voltage of the contactor, which means it does not latch in the on position until the motor is up to speed where the voltage is able to climb back up to 208 or atleast close to, and barely at that.
Yup low voltage and wattage.
The coil voltage, for the contactor, is probably in the brown out range (below 100vac).
BTW, 120/208Y is normally used for lighting and receptacle power.
You could also use a VFD to help prevent in rush current and or add some ac capacitors.
if you are running for some time check your 60hz with an electric ie plug in, clock. if it keeps good time your gen-set is running at the right speed. matt be careful. ground that unit so that you can't be killed by the electric. this is easy to forget when producing your own power. i want to watch you for along time to come
Great find and sure made for great viewing bro. Safe travels. Ken
Military equipment always runs on 24V and there is a standardized NATO plug, in german called Schweinenase (pig nose) due to it's shape, to give start assist from one vehicule to another, be it a tank, heavy truck or a jeep.
Another thing that you have to keep in mind Matt is that the band saw might not have capacitor start motors to help in the initial start up of operation. Those capacitors in those type of motors use the capacitors energy on start up. It helps with the in rush of current to help start the equipment. If your equipment does not have that you could always put in a capacitor bank in series. Put the bank in between the start up circuitry and the connection to the motor or motors.
I'm guessing that the motor in the band saw is capacitor start, but at the lower voltage, the capacitors don't have sufficient power to start the motor properly, which is why you have to hold the power button for an extended time period
Protec is a wix brand BTW and is only designed to be used with conventional motor oil. Also, it's the bottom of the barrel for Wix like the orange Fram that was already on it in frams filter lineup... In comparison. I'd still say it's a decent filter for light use and regular oil changes using non synthetic oils
Sounds really sweet, nice bit of kit and very useful. 👍🤗
Great to see someone cleaning before they start, that got you a like before I even watched the video. I don’t know how folk can stand to work on something that’s filthy . Good job
I just saw your video on your projects you need to get started on. I’ve had a service truck with a bucket lift before and I’ve regretted selling it for several years. You can’t underestimate all the things you can do and the different jobs that can be done with a truck like that. You will regret every day I don’t have it operating.
It has been a long time since I have seen any videos update from you, sure would be nice to see more from you more often !
Good job getting the generator cleaned up and running guys
I saw that pro-tec filter said it was made in Gastonia, NC so it’s a Wix/Afina or now it’s called Mann&Hummel. They make filters for Orileys too.
The contactor on the bandsaw will be struggling to pull in on 208 volts, that's why you have to hold the start button for a few seconds.
No because the motor is wired for 240V not 208V.
Holding the button just energizes an auxiliary contact that energizes the coil that pulls in the magnetic switch on the motor (starter)controller energizing T1,T2,T3 which sends 3phase power to your load. The coil is typically 120 volt., but could be a 208 volt coil. Don’t run 240 volt motors on 208. Check voltage with multimeter from L0 to L1(120volts), L0 to L2 (120volts) L0 to L3 (120volts) then between phases L1 to L2 (240volts), L1 to L3 (240volts), L2 to L3 (240volts). Check wiring diagram of the generator stator to see if wired differently it could generate 240 v
He would just need a vfd controller to use 208 on 240 motors but considering they're the same price as a battery that he isn't willing to spend, I'd say that's not an option for him 😅
208 volt L1 to L2 = 120 volt L0 to L1 on 3 phase
That fuel pump is a Bendix Clack-Clack fuel pump. They came in 6Vdc, 12Vdc, 24Vcd and I don't know if there were others. They were very common when I was a lot younger. I'm 83 yrs old. That one is probably 24Vdc. You could use anything the same voltage to replace it if it's bad.
That is a great and useful find!
Fantastic machine. Tom getting her up and running
On a positive note,I enjoy people that save things from destruction.On the negative side you never checked the oil or pulled the air filter.Just my thought.
Also, they probably ran that thing on different fuels other then diesel. Usually a lot of that military equipment can run on jet fuel, kerosene, and of course diesel. Our Dept. Got a Hemitt and they ran it on jet fuel and when we got it and put road diesel in it, truck wasn’t to happy. We had to have a diesel mechanic go into it and adjust a bunch of stuff with the idol. That might be why the fuel in your generator doesn’t look like your typical on/off road diesel.
Another great video. Thank You
Wow that was a great find awesome 👌
great find!!! love stuff like that
....LOOKIN' GREAT, NICE JOB. KEEP SAFE AND WELL...
I would advise you to purchase a manual on that generator , when i was in the military all generators were required to have a ground rod to elemenate elecetral shock !
The shop is looking really good, all of your hard work is definitely paying off!
That is not 'the cave'. At the beginning of the video was but then the rest was filmed at Matt's home. Old Red'was in the background
Very good job getting that generator running again my man.
hi i really admire how you tackle the problems keep up making videos Greetings from Amsterdam Holland
You need to download the manuals for your generator.
Great resuscitation!
i used to work with an onan diesel generator and it was LOUD! i spent 4 days running that thing 24 hours a day. you couldn't hear yourself think.
FYI- your uncle's shirt ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good choice, always handy👍💪
Good morning Matt, brilliant video as always, nice to see you working at home and you still have 'Old Red'.
Looking forward to watching your next video with the generators big brother. 👍👍👍
Great results. 😁 next time I see one for sale.....buying it..... Now that I know how it works. Thanks
You really need to get the TM manual for that Genset it will help you out a lot . Steel Soldiers should have what you need .
If you can find the TM, get the dash 15 or the dash 35 version of the TM.
Thanks for continuing my education
You sure made the shop look nice with all your efforts,
Thank you for sharing ,i learn a lot and i have a pleasure watch your video 👍👍👍👍
A quick check on line. Pro-Tec filters are made by WIX. You should be able to X-ref with the FRAM filter that you have changed. Have fun, videos always very watchable.
Good job. Great video.
The 22 and 13/16 designation on the oil filters actually IS the thread size (22mm and 13/16"). Truthfully, you're not going to be able to run many 3 ph. motors on a 3kw. generator. It will probably trip the breaker on anything above 1 or 2 hp., even free-wheeling. On the air filter, you may be able to match it to one from a zero-turn mower with a little Kubota Diesel or similar. Seeing as it's 24 vdc start, you may be able to hook 2 garden tractor batteries in series to crank it, although I don't know how they would do in cold weather.😉
I just won an auction gen set myself last Wednesday, getting a semi truck from my job to pick it up today, it's in an old 40 foot dry van trailer, it's a Caterpillar D349 705kw 3ph 480volt unit, it all intact with the leads, control panel and a step down transformer. Paid $1100 for it. I just wanted the trailer for storage here in Alaska because a connex is over 3 grand now.
nice score brother
Not to take away from your project but I wanted to let you know I think I may try starting it today, it has 3 12 volt batteries in series, dual starters, one battery was flat, put a charger on it last night. I actually have a 36 volt charger I bought for another project. I need to scope out the starting procedure, looks like an electric oil pump has to run first until an oil pressure switch closes to allow the starter solenoids to engage. Engine was made in 1983.
After several cans of starting fluid it will run but I need to flush out the really nasty old brown diesel from the priming pump, injection pump and up to the injectors. I don't think the lift pump is building pressure. Last engine ran time was in 2006.
Thank you for a great video. Keep up the good work.
Nice to see you working on a smaller machine.
Definitely consult someone who knows about 3 phase. The 208V does make sense in how things are wired from what I understand. But I don't know enough to give any solid advice. I suspect you have the output for your equipment wired wrong.
Dude, be careful pressure washing your pressure washer. I did that to mine, and it ended up sitting disassembled on my workbench for a year while I tried to figure out what went wrong with it. I didn't think about it, but the gas cap was vented from the top of the cap, and it got water in the system. Before I realized that was the problem, I rebuilt the carb three times, while getting more irritated each time, then tore the entire thing apart to see if there was another issue. It would run fine until the engine got to temp, and then it would die. I drained and blew the tank out, replaced the lines, and it still took three tanks of gas for me to get all the water out of the system. It finally cleared up and started running correctly yesterday.
Quite a shop! My first time here!
I like how your Bob Cat converted as a Fork Lift! 😂
(Just had to say that). :P
I like the Gehl skid steer.. This I think is my favorite machine to run of all manufactures.. I have a John Deere 325 and have had it for four years with no repairs other than replacing the A/C compressor.. A bit of advise to keep your driveway smoother and make your tires last longer..... Roll rather than turn in one spot.. Good video..
the way my grandpaw/bigdaddy(god rest his soul)explained to me is 208V 3-phase loses about 25% of the working power compared to 240V 3-phase(he was a marine who fought in ww2 as well as retired from core of engineers as well as an inventor holding many many patents ) now i may very well be wrong but that sums up what he told me(as far as power from any power company)and my uncle used rev up his 15kw genset to get 240V but your mileage may very....im just extremely happy to see you fix it up and use it as opposed to letting it just sit and rot
Hell yeah ! My favorite you tuber fixit man!!
Nice beast !
Your starter on the band saw is set up for 240 three phase, the generator puts out 208. Holding the start button is letting the motor spin up to a point that the current has dropped into a range that the starter can maintain
Great vidio new shop is awesome!! I'm always looking for your latest vidio. Thanks
The wire looks like aviation/military spec tefzel. Would make sense. Bet there are a few A&Ps here that can tell you about proper looming and securing.
Amazing
Nice genny, I need to get a deal like that 🤙
The lower 208 V 3 phase may not be generating enough initial power to actually utilize the hold down on the band saw. That is why holding the start button for a few seconds works and just pushing the start does not work. The hold down voltage may not be high enough for an instant start.
Love watching your junk to jewel videos. And an Onan single throatier to boot? My motorhome has an Onan diesel generator with a three cylinder Kubota. I kind of expected it to sound like an old John Deere one cylinder “poppy john” tractor. Keep it up. Looking forward to that genset’s big brother.
Nice job 🙌🙌😊👍👌🍀
You made a good purchase, get a frequency meter though and adjust for 60 hz.
Its a reliable diesel. I have an identical one that is bolted to my utility garage floor as a manual backup for AC power. Loud but consistently runs when I need it.