@@MauzyrockRC thanks for the support my man, very kind! Glad your getting somthing out of the channel, some like the Bashing🚀🚀😎👍, some like the Installs and technical stuff, I just put it all out there and hope y'all enjoy. For cst it depends on the manufacturer if they rate it at cst or not as it's just a measure of thickness typically used for shock oil but can all be rated for diff oil, then you will see 50k and 50wt used and they are different as well. It can be confusing so I just Google CST to Wt conversations table or somthing like that and use that for a refrence for myself so I don't screw it up😂 wish the manufacturers would settle on one standard 😡 Typically wt refers to the lighter stuff, K (thousand) or M (million) refers to the thicker, CST can be used to rate any of it👍 As I did here I accidentally grabbed 50 and 30wt instead of 50/30k realized it after I shot the video so decided to correct it with 🔸Comments 🔸 Because the info was correct, only difference with technique is that with 50k you would have to take the gears out first, fill it a bit, drop the gears in, top it off etc, you would not be advised to just poor it in.....too thick and easy air bubbles. I will probably redo this video with the LSD diffs as well because they are a WHOLE OTHER animal 🙄 Hope the video helps.. See ya round brother
No brother.... Just make sure to take the spider gears out and don't just poor it in like I did in the video, I accidentally grabbed 30 and 50wt shock oils as opposed to 30k/50k diff fluids so they were so thin I could just poor it, but 50k you gotta take the spider gears out for proper filling. I mention this in the description about the wrong diff fluids used. I should really redo the whole video maybe someday.... My production is way better now.
Waoo that's crazy how that works I buy a python 6s and a lot of people in videos say that need to put oil in the differentials jajajajaja and I don't know what to do but now I see how to put oil I need to check how to take out the pats from the car lol nice video
Very glad I could help brother. It's tricky but once you see it done and try to do it yourself it's not bad at all, the tips are what I find useful and I have stolen plenty and learned some😂🤣 Appreciate your time, hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
Thanks brother. Didn't want the video to be too long because I do talk way slower than this 😂🤣 Appreciate the support as some have really NOT liked the speed, but in fairness in this video and some of my older ones I was experimenting with speed up techniques and my newer videos still use it at times but it's not as noticeable. Appreciate your time brother and I'm glad you are enjoying the channel and got somthing out of this one. See ya round brother
Hey, great video. I changed to 500k recently in my center diff and after only a few runs, the gears started grinding. I tore it down and discovered the shims were badly scored and worn thin. I had cleaned all with brake cleaner and didn't think about how the thick fluid was going to (or wasn't) going to get between the parts to lubricate them. Obviously it didn't. This time, I put a dot of Amsoil racing grease on each shim surface before installing them, them added the fluid. I put 2 shims on each output shift behind the pin to tighten up the slop in the gears and keep them snug against the planetary gears. I think the shims in the planetary gears should be an even number to keep them perfectly simetrical, plus, they need to ride slightly outside the diameter of the output gear for the mesh to be correct. Thanks
Thanks buddy, You may have overshimmed it causing it to bind a bit, the diff oil should get to the shims no matter what, but if the whole diff is too tight it can cause the issues you mentioned. You have to go by feel, two shims behind each is likely too much for any diff?? I like to use one eash of the Mugen ones because they are thicker than stock and it's nice to have one behind each and be simetrical like you said, but more importantly yiu should be able to tighten the diff all the way till the screws stop and then still be able to turn it by hand WITHOUT feeling binding or the gears grinding on themselves hard. You should just barely be able to feel, the gears touching and moving within themselves. It is hard to turn or there stiff, you may have too many shims. Not every diff is the same. If it's too tight, pull out some shims, and extra shims behind the planitary can definitely cause issues, maybe one thin one or the stock arrma one is fine, again you gotta go by feel. It should be smooth and not catch or feel too "notchey" when all the screws are tight. Turn it in yiur hand to feel after to see. Also v4 and v5 diffs are VERY good with shimming, I mostly just leave them stock and swap oil... Shimming is more necessary with v3 and prior diffs My 2 cents
Thanks for your reply. Good advice. FYI, when I changed the diff fluid to 500,000, I only cleaned everything and left all of the factory shims in place, one behind each planetary gear and one behind each output gear. They were dry and the thick lube didn't get between them because the shim wore right into the back of each planetary gear! Really smooth machined surfaces have a surface tension and can prevent lube from getting between them. I think that's what happened. I replaced all of the gears and shims and left the planetary gear shims factory at 1 a piece. I only added a 2nd thin one to the output shafts.They still had some play and the gears were smooth with no notchy-ness. 😊 thanks
Ok buddy, sounds like you were right then, I hadn't realized you cleaned them and they were really dry had no oil at all on them, I guess that could happen. Sorry buddy. That sucks. Diffs are tricky but once you got them down "less" issues, but things can still go wrong Appreciate the comments and support brother. Enjoy the channel
Great diff maintenance and shimming video 👍 The V1 diffs needed the extra internal shims. Somewhere around V3 Arrma improved the tolerances and you can get away without the extra spider gear shims 👍
Agreed sir, with v4 diffs its more about external shims but those are usually correct too, some like to replace the stock shim under the planitary with the bigger mugen one, and that's cool if its not too tight. With v3 they wee better shimmed, but v4 they added the planitary shims so somtimes it's just a simple fluid swap like I did here🎯 Thanks for coming by buddy! See ya round
Yeah man it's sped up😂🤣 I have gotten better and more subtle WHEN I use speed now 🤣 this is an old video... Please check out my new ones as this one has TONS of views because it's useful information but it's not my best production 👌 Hope you enjoyed and see ya round brother
😂🤣 Yeah I do speed it up at times. Hope you still enjoyed .... and make sure to use K instead of wt (50k vs 50wt) oil like I accidentally did, so you will have to take it all apart like I did with the center diff.... Not just poor it in. ... See ya round
Appreciate that bud, glad I could help! I still absolutely love my Kraton.... Such a balanced rig from Arrma! Feel free to check some of my Kraton bashing vids... I have sent that thing! Haha Thanks for the Sub and your time.... See ya round
Awesome video!!! If you ever decide to pull your diffs, completely, apart. Brake cleaner is a good thing to use to remove all the diff fluid and possible grime that might be in there
Just a FYI, use TA Emerald TAE4550 Nitro Clean for your gears... it CLEANS ALL of the fluids off of the gears and the housing’s WAYYYY better than brake clean. 👍🏻
Have you thought about becoming a hand/foot model? Seriously though, good vid, thanks. Kraton 6s V5 arrives tomorrow. Planning on doing the oils (50K front, 300K centre, 20K) rear before running it along with some shimmage. Subbed.
🤣😂🤣😂 Yeah I really show off my hands in my new Xmaxx Shoe Goo Video. That sounds good for the Diff fluids though I like 500k in the center, but 300 is good. Internal shimming is almost never necessary with the v4 and v5 diffs, maybe just an outer shim by the bearing depending on how much play there is between the diff and the bulkhead sliding left and right. Appreciate the Sub brother, see ya round
@@3SonsRC i really do, comming back to RC after 20 years pause. HPI Savage times ;) Ive got a lot to learn. Soon getting Arrma Outcast 8s. All Your vids help a lot. A specially service vids and m2c upgrades. Bashing vids are also awsome!
GREAT video with great info , as usual . I dont have a ton of experience driving different set ups but I just changed all my diff oils but I did 50k front 300k center and 20k rear. 2 questions , What would thicker oil in the center do ? I have an exb so I have the lsd in the rear so is 20k still optimal ? Thx for the insigjt . Peace
Great questions and thanks for the look.... Glad you found it helpful That's a good setup honestly what ya got. Lots of guys go 500k center for 6s trucks but with the LSD's if you go that thick the center locks up too much possibly and won't let the lsd work as well. Thicker in the center will help if you are still bleeding too much power to the front end (want more wheelie and backflip go thicker center) .... You will see it on launch if your fronts are ballooning really bad and rears are planted and not ballooning. Though some ballooning is expected. So while the norm might be 50/500/30k with the LSD's is definitely fine to drop that a bit so the LSD's can do there work. So I think you should run what ya got and see if you like it... Might be perfect See ya round brother
!!! nice video!! Please one question? Because I try for first time to change diff oil of my arrma kraton 6s v3!! What is it the the best and safe diff oil for the rear-Center and ifront differential? Ps: the Center diffential it is new and (arrma kraton v5) Am not crazy about how fast goes or wild the kraton v3!!!! But I like more the safety and the best safety oil for the differential!!! Thanks
Great question brother, I run 50k/500k/30k (fr/c/R) in most of my Arrma rigs, if it's Shorter Wheel Base like the Outcast maybe 300k in the center. It's a safe proven setup that many use and I have been using for years. Hope your enjoying the channel brother, see ya round
Hahaha silicone oil for the differentials? 🤪 small mistake , can be bigger trouble. But nice save for the video . With the note 👌🏽 I just do the swap for my 3 diff for my new stock exb mojave 200k 500k and 100k 🤪 what you think about this thickness diff oil?
I swear I was more focused on making the video than the thickness of the fluid pouring out😂🤣 Realized it after.... Too lazy to reshoot. Glad you got something out of the video and hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
Truggy and monster truggy is usually lighter in the rear so the rear and slides over in turns and helps steering.... Less push. Thicker in the back than front does the opposite, truck rear does not come around as easy harder to steer less predictable more Monster Truck wild. For better handling go lighter in the back, I honestly don't know the advantages of lighter in the front than rear.... Most don't run like that Appreciate your time and GREAT question, hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
Yup fair point, this was an old video and I was kinda noob 😂🤣 but I wouldn't put it past me making similar mistakes today, so while your right I'm just a big kid playing with toys putting out hopefully helpful or entertaining content for the community. Not looking to be "the authority" you know but yes, your 100% right. Appreciate your time watching several of my videos brother, the newer stuff is better, I'm kinda ashamed that some of my older videos have this many views with the mistakes I made 😂🤣 but whatever I don't take myself that seriously, I try my best but "Mistakes were made" 🤣😁 See ya round
Sup buddy and welcome to the hobby, hope your enjoying the channel. You don't really need to change the oil at all really so long as they are not leaking or broken gears inside but yoy will know that really quickly 😱. So maybe check on them every few months depending on how often you run them, see if there still full. Before I put them in the truck I sit them for 15 minute intervals different angles and watch for leaking before I put them in the truck. I would say wouldn't be a bad idea once a year to take all your diffs out and check them out make sure they're full as some type of maintenance schedule👍 See ya round brother
Oh I'm sorry I didn't mention that. I Use Lukas Red N Tacky #2... It's dirt cheap at the Auto store... Don't waste your money with the hobby store stuff.... Not for bashing anyway!
Hey 3sons would you hazard a guess as to why 50t n 46t brand new Arrma spur gears fully built always seep/leak from the rear o ring 2200kv max8 combo never the gasket Thank you for any help 💯😎
Let's see, What K diff grease you using? Is that Red O ring stretched and worn out? (maybe need a new one) What version diffs? If v4 or later should have the shim indwr the pin that goes over the red ring so that's better. You could also be overfill the diff?? Hope that helps a bit?
@@3SonsRC 300k diff oil Team AE, brand new red o rings top and bottom, V4 diffs brand new internals so I’m leaning towards overfilling of diff but I’m at the cross pins and let air out inbetween fills from empty to cross pins So above all else I think I’m overfilling them and I leave green slim o ring grease also sloppy on orings so it’s going through Thank you for you real quick help I’m actually doing the gills now on centre diff it’s the only one giving jibb
@@3SonsRC hey 3 Sons Rc so after all that I swapped out the bearings and I think that was the issue WHY that’s what I still don’t know but all is well for the moment Just wanted to say thanks for your help 💯✅
Don't bro 😂🤣 RC shock and diff oil is silicone based and there are different weights, no idea the weight of lawnmower oil or how corrosion it might be..... Unless your just messing with me, if that's the case. Ya got me Hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
Hi! Love you videos. Im a noob in this world of hobby grade rc’s. I’ve done some research already and watched a bunch of yt vids and decided to get a kraton 6s v5 as my first car. Do you recommend to reshim the diffs of a brand new k6 v5 along with changing diff fluids? Im at about below average skill in doing my motorcycle tranny and some mechanical jobs in cars. But im a bit hesitant to reshim a bnew k6 out of the box being a newbie and no available parts nearby. Would love to know what you think. Thanks!
Thanks for stopping by and I'm glad your enjoying the channel. You won't need to reshim the diffs of a v4 or newer diff as there usually spot on, maybe check the external shims that I touched on but don't make it too tight, but should be good good from factory BUT DO check fluid levels and adjust to defferemt if you want. Somtimes diffs loosen up over time so not a bad idea to check on them after 6 months to see if internally/externally they are too loose.... But much of this still applies for knowledge sake. And fear not brother I think you 1:1 Auto mechanics knowledge will help a lot! See ya round brother
I replaced them all for M2C drive cups and outdrives, but if you like feel free to rock the stock ones till they start getting shreaded. These eliminate the slop and are way tougher... But I just started my crazy build with them because I had them. See ya round bro
@@3SonsRC nice thanks buddy. Just wanted to make sure I knew where they were meant to go first. I put and guessed the center. I think I will change them out but will probably run the stock ones on the front and rear for now. Do you have any 8S battery pack recommendations? Something that would fit in the 6S EXB.
@@DonnieKluck no such thing brother as an 8s pack. You would need 2x 4s packs and an esc that can handle it. IMHO 8s in a 6s Kraton is overkill, very hard to fit, very heavy and you will break more stuff. But to each his own.... Some make it happen. Stronger punch settings, motor pinion esc will impact performance more and then higher C batteries help as well.
@@3SonsRC yeah when I meant 8S pack I was referring to wait 4S packs would recommend. I was not sure if anything could fit in there with 2 4S packs since it is a 6S chassis and battery compartment. Didn't know if you had experience nor ideas. That's all. Yeah it probably is an overkill but I was like hmmm maybe I will try it. Since I have the head room in electronics and motor to make it work. Now if everything else can handle it that is a totally different story.
@@DonnieKluck ok, yeah you would have to get two small 4s batteries and stack them and the MAH would have to be really low to fit, but that would be too low MAH for descent run time. 6s is plenty IMHO. Just not enough room really for 8s.
So how would I know if my diffs need to rebuilt or shimmed right from the manufacture on my 6S EXB? I am torn here and just trying to figure out what I actually need to do if anything. Since I seen a lot of videos and posts out there just not sure what is current these days or if the issue has kind of been resolved.
They won't need a rebuild for sure, v4 and later diffs don't need internal shimming or much at all. Wouldn't hurt to open them up to see if they are low on diff fluid. But you would not be the least responsible person to just bash it now and check later 🤣😂
i used lucas moley bearing grease thinned us accordingly to suit like any other tool / car i ever worked on this silicon oil fer rc is odd to me. that stuff is normally used on food equipment stuff in food service world
Sorry I missed this question bud, Most arrma 6s trucks come with the standard front/center/rear 10k/100k/10k I usually go 50/500/30...but that is for bashing and tricks... Not the same as a SCT, you would want to likely go thinner on all those compared to my setup. I would reach out on the Arrma Facebook group because I don't have a Mojave... Though I really want one. Arrma sets up the diffs for general bashing and getting started.... As you get better with the truck you will want to adjust based on your driving style and desires. Appreciate your time See ya round brother
@@3SonsRC hello may I ask what would be a benefit from me changing my center diff from 100k to 500k? Mojave 6s bashing jumping backyard style, I do like the ability to turn tight. What weight would you say? I'm thinking 50k 500k 30K or is this too stiff?
I want to buy the Arrma Infraction and I want to swap diff oils, what cst should I use (front/rear). I wanted to buy the 100k cst but I couldn't find anywhere, can I use 80k?
To be fair I have no street Bashers so I haven't looked I to what's preferred for those. In Off Road Bashers a common setup is 50k front, 300-500k center, 10-30k rear. I imagine street Bashers would be different though for street handling and straight line performance preferred. I would hop on the Facebook forums for Arrma Street Bashers and do a search.... I'm sure plenty of dudes have chimed in. Super Appreciate your time, hope the video helped and hope you're enjoying the channel, see ya round brother.
🤣😂 Yeah I try not to bore people with my slow talking... But I have started a different technique that sounds a little better... Thanks for dropping a comment! Appreciate your time brother, hope your enjoying the Channel. See ya round
Thanks for stopping by and excellent question. If your meaning the tiny grub screw on the center diff case that holds the spider gears, the plug hole to access the pin under the sun gear,.... Just flush to the outside of the plastic cup. If your talking about the grub screw that holds the pinion on the motor shaft, as tight as you can crank it with red loctite my preferred.... But don't use 110% of your strength and strip the screw... With proper MIP tools (not Allen key) you should be able to get it tight. Is that what you were asking? Hope that helps and hope your enjoying the channel 😎👍 See ya round
Thanks for your time and I hope you enjoyed! I know some of the diff tips here may apply, but the weight of the oils reccomended for your 1/10 scale Losi would definitely be different than the 1/8 scale MT basher this went in. I'm sorry but I could not make a reccomended weight for the diffs as I don't have any Losi. Though I NEED a Losi LMT in my life. Wish I could help more brother See ya round
Also when you take out the diffs, what is that grease that is coating the whole outside? I dont have anything to re-grease it so trying to find out what I need to get so I can put the diffs back in once I get them filled with diff fluid. Do you think 20K, 200K, 20K in my 6S rig would be good for the diffs?
For the Outside diffs I use Lukas Red N Tacky... Never mess with that Hobby Store grease as it's too expensive. I usually run 50/500/30k F/C/R in most my 6s rigs. But with LSD's like are in the EXB 200-300 is the most ya want to go in the center, and maybe just 30k up front. You can 100% just run it as is and see if you like the LSD feel. It's a preference thing but with the LSD's I have in my Mojave I just run it stock
@@3SonsRC gotcha thanks buddy. I was taking it apart to check the levels and figured I would start with something either stock or different mix. Do you recall off the top of your head what stock weight is? It's like 10,000/100,000/10,000 right?
Exactly 👍... If there low maybe add a little bit thicker fluid... Like if the front is light add some 30k??No need to mess with a complete swap when you haven't run er yet.
@@3SonsRC So one other question for you, is adding thicker diff fluid in front F/C/R diffs mainly just getting rid of the effects of it working like an LSD and thus not making it a LSD to some degree?
@@DonnieKluck I'm no LSD expert but thicker fluid will not stop the effect unless your going 1mill (not reccomended) but will lesten the transfer for power from front rmto rear (center diff) helping with ballooning etc, or L/R effecting the slide into turn and pulling out that's why in the rear you don't go too thick or your car will SUCK at turning. 20-30 is fun in the rear...and 20 Likley perfect with LSD in the rear depending on preference. So thicker does kit stop LSD, but you don't want to go as thick as standard diffs if you do have LSD's Some Dudes like to use real thick diff fluid, it's all preference and what you get used to
So what's the difference between let's say 50wt n 50k? I have a kaiju n wondering which one to use. Wt or k? Please help.? Would 15k in front n 50k in the back be ok or not?
A TON of difference. With is more of a shock oil measure, K is for diffs TYPICALLY 😎👍 50wt will be like a oil.... Where as 50k will be thick like BBQ sauce 😱😂🤣 Huge difference in performance. 500k will be like thick glue consistency etc😜 Flip those weights. Put the thicker in the front and lighter in the back so the rear end will come around.... Thicker and it won't run as well as it shifts traction. I go f/c/r 50/500/30k and somtimes 300k in the center depending on the rig. For a Kaiju I would try 30/300/15?? But I don't own one but that's my guess based on weight, size, and wheelbase 😊😉 Hope that helps brother. Glad your getting somthing out the channel, hit that Sub and👍 Bash on RC Famo Appreciate ya
Yeah I love wheelies but I want to be able to control it.... I anticipate having to go down to 200k, your not the first I heard that 100-200k is ok for SWB. Appreciate your time buddy and support!
@@3SonsRC no problem great vids. I run 200 in my lwb Arrmas. 100 in outcast and can still pull a wheelie at will. I couldn't imagine 500😊 it'll be nuts💪👍
😂🤣 I caught my mistake right after I filmed it, figgured I'd fix in editing. Now a days I would have done it over again but these were early days😱🤣😂 Hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
Old video brother, gotten better here. I really should redo this whole video the production is crap compared to my newer install videos. But I do appreciate the comment and time buddy
🤣🤣🤣 I like this guy 🤣🤣 HE IS AWESOME I GOT TO HAVE COFFEE TO KEEP UP WITH WHAT HE'S SAYING OT TAKE SOMETHING TO SPEED ME UP . my slow azz need to rewind every 3-4 words 🤣🤣🤣🤣 MY WIFE IS ANNOYING BECAUSE I KEEP REWINDING WHAT'S BEING SAID 🤣 she just as slow as me she act like she understood everything he said . I wish she go find something to do so i can do this 🤣🤣🤣 , first I'm gonna subscribe this channel and than hid her car keys to give her something to do 🤣
This is got to be one of the funniest comments ever on my channel bro this made me smile, thank you so much for the subscription I appreciate your time and kind comments and also just know that back in this older video I was experimenting with speeding up the dialogue a little bit and I've gotten better and more limited in my use of this so enjoy the channel and see around brother😎👍
Definitely not a problem 🤣 my wife looked for her keys for over 2hrs 🤣🤣🤣 NOW SHE'S GOT TO CLEAN UP THE MESS SHE'S MADE ... me 🤣 I get to watch more videos on rc's lol , I just ordered the "Powerhobby Grippers" for my Typhon 6s BLX v5 , I ordered the red ones being I have the the red an black one . So I been on here looking at some of the car game , you are definitely on point , you have good content 👌 . I fly nice big Rc jets an prop aircraft . So this Typhon 6s v5 is my first powerful car I'm just going to condition it to stay running nice an have a nice look overall not much changing thing other than wheels an gears. If I got to change ESC's an motor an stuff for much faster I will get the infraction or something an put my own system in it right . Lol but than again THATS HOW THE AIRCRAFT GAME GOT ME WITH THE "Got'tem Scotty" 🤣
🎯🎯***PLEASE NOTE***🎯🎯
Accidentally grabbed 20wt and 50wt from LHS instead of 50k and 20k....NOT the same thing!
--Anyone seen my Coffee☕😜😔
let me just say-You win best detailed walkthrough of this stuff, and 2nd, is cst for shocks? or just a different catagorization
@@MauzyrockRC thanks for the support my man, very kind!
Glad your getting somthing out of the channel, some like the Bashing🚀🚀😎👍, some like the Installs and technical stuff, I just put it all out there and hope y'all enjoy.
For cst it depends on the manufacturer if they rate it at cst or not as it's just a measure of thickness typically used for shock oil but can all be rated for diff oil, then you will see 50k and 50wt used and they are different as well. It can be confusing so I just Google CST to Wt conversations table or somthing like that and use that for a refrence for myself so I don't screw it up😂 wish the manufacturers would settle on one standard 😡
Typically wt refers to the lighter stuff, K (thousand) or M (million) refers to the thicker, CST can be used to rate any of it👍
As I did here I accidentally grabbed 50 and 30wt instead of 50/30k realized it after I shot the video so decided to correct it with 🔸Comments 🔸
Because the info was correct, only difference with technique is that with 50k you would have to take the gears out first, fill it a bit, drop the gears in, top it off etc, you would not be advised to just poor it in.....too thick and easy air bubbles. I will probably redo this video with the LSD diffs as well because they are a WHOLE OTHER animal 🙄
Hope the video helps.. See ya round brother
This was so huge help, Mate.
I'm just about ready to do my first diff oil change. You've simpl8fied the whole process for me.
Cheers.
No brother.... Just make sure to take the spider gears out and don't just poor it in like I did in the video, I accidentally grabbed 30 and 50wt shock oils as opposed to 30k/50k diff fluids so they were so thin I could just poor it, but 50k you gotta take the spider gears out for proper filling. I mention this in the description about the wrong diff fluids used. I should really redo the whole video maybe someday.... My production is way better now.
@@3SonsRC oh thanks for that, Mate. This is what I love about this hobby... you learn as much from your mistakes as what you do, your victories 😁
My Center diff blew up In my Kraton 6s 4 time out thus was a great help fixing it😊
Glad I could help.... Exactly why I put this out!
Hope your enjoying the channel,
See ya round brother
Lot of good info, and good idea with waffle speed, nothing's left out and still a fast video. I learned something new 2day thx bro.
Thanks brother..... Glad you enjoyed and got somthing out of it! Appreciate your time and Support/Sub.... Stay safe and see ya round!
Just bought my first arrma so really helpful thanks👍
Waoo that's crazy how that works I buy a python 6s and a lot of people in videos say that need to put oil in the differentials jajajajaja and I don't know what to do but now I see how to put oil I need to check how to take out the pats from the car lol nice video
Very glad I could help brother.
It's tricky but once you see it done and try to do it yourself it's not bad at all, the tips are what I find useful and I have stolen plenty and learned some😂🤣
Appreciate your time, hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
Great show here 3 Sons Rc absolutely diff the waffle speed more channels should take note and you can still here what your saying 💥🥳🎯 nailed It
Thanks brother.
Didn't want the video to be too long because I do talk way slower than this 😂🤣
Appreciate the support as some have really NOT liked the speed, but in fairness in this video and some of my older ones I was experimenting with speed up techniques and my newer videos still use it at times but it's not as noticeable.
Appreciate your time brother and I'm glad you are enjoying the channel and got somthing out of this one.
See ya round brother
Hey, great video. I changed to 500k recently in my center diff and after only a few runs, the gears started grinding. I tore it down and discovered the shims were badly scored and worn thin. I had cleaned all with brake cleaner and didn't think about how the thick fluid was going to (or wasn't) going to get between the parts to lubricate them. Obviously it didn't. This time, I put a dot of Amsoil racing grease on each shim surface before installing them, them added the fluid. I put 2 shims on each output shift behind the pin to tighten up the slop in the gears and keep them snug against the planetary gears. I think the shims in the planetary gears should be an even number to keep them perfectly simetrical, plus, they need to ride slightly outside the diameter of the output gear for the mesh to be correct. Thanks
Thanks buddy,
You may have overshimmed it causing it to bind a bit, the diff oil should get to the shims no matter what, but if the whole diff is too tight it can cause the issues you mentioned.
You have to go by feel, two shims behind each is likely too much for any diff?? I like to use one eash of the Mugen ones because they are thicker than stock and it's nice to have one behind each and be simetrical like you said, but more importantly yiu should be able to tighten the diff all the way till the screws stop and then still be able to turn it by hand WITHOUT feeling binding or the gears grinding on themselves hard. You should just barely be able to feel, the gears touching and moving within themselves. It is hard to turn or there stiff, you may have too many shims. Not every diff is the same. If it's too tight, pull out some shims, and extra shims behind the planitary can definitely cause issues, maybe one thin one or the stock arrma one is fine, again you gotta go by feel. It should be smooth and not catch or feel too "notchey" when all the screws are tight. Turn it in yiur hand to feel after to see. Also v4 and v5 diffs are VERY good with shimming, I mostly just leave them stock and swap oil... Shimming is more necessary with v3 and prior diffs
My 2 cents
Thanks for your reply. Good advice. FYI, when I changed the diff fluid to 500,000, I only cleaned everything and left all of the factory shims in place, one behind each planetary gear and one behind each output gear. They were dry and the thick lube didn't get between them because the shim wore right into the back of each planetary gear! Really smooth machined surfaces have a surface tension and can prevent lube from getting between them. I think that's what happened. I replaced all of the gears and shims and left the planetary gear shims factory at 1 a piece. I only added a 2nd thin one to the output shafts.They still had some play and the gears were smooth with no notchy-ness. 😊 thanks
Ok buddy, sounds like you were right then, I hadn't realized you cleaned them and they were really dry had no oil at all on them, I guess that could happen. Sorry buddy. That sucks. Diffs are tricky but once you got them down "less" issues, but things can still go wrong
Appreciate the comments and support brother.
Enjoy the channel
Great diff maintenance and shimming video 👍 The V1 diffs needed the extra internal shims. Somewhere around V3 Arrma improved the tolerances and you can get away without the extra spider gear shims 👍
Agreed sir, with v4 diffs its more about external shims but those are usually correct too, some like to replace the stock shim under the planitary with the bigger mugen one, and that's cool if its not too tight. With v3 they wee better shimmed, but v4 they added the planitary shims so somtimes it's just a simple fluid swap like I did here🎯
Thanks for coming by buddy!
See ya round
Awesome Video, I just got the notorious, and I have to replace the front differential.that video was perfect for me thank you👍🏻👌🔥
Glad you got something out of the video brother!
Hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
i had to check and see if this video was speeded up lol my got you talk fast 🤣
Yeah man it's sped up😂🤣
I have gotten better and more subtle WHEN I use speed now 🤣 this is an old video... Please check out my new ones as this one has TONS of views because it's useful information but it's not my best production 👌
Hope you enjoyed and see ya round brother
Every diff is different! Said 2x speed by the MicroMachines man
😂🤣 Yeah I do speed it up at times. Hope you still enjoyed
.... and make sure to use K instead of wt (50k vs 50wt) oil like I accidentally did, so you will have to take it all apart like I did with the center diff.... Not just poor it in.
... See ya round
Just bought my kraton 6s so I'm new to the RC car world.....cool video 😎 im subscribed💯
Appreciate that bud, glad I could help! I still absolutely love my Kraton.... Such a balanced rig from Arrma!
Feel free to check some of my Kraton bashing vids... I have sent that thing! Haha
Thanks for the Sub and your time.... See ya round
@@3SonsRC cool 😎
Very thorough. Great movie Mate, I learnt a lot 👍
Great vid man. I need to do my Diffs and suspension pins. I believe ones bent causing my droop screws to misalign 😊
That sucks bro, such is RC.... Stuff breaks, fix bash, repeat 😂😂 see ya round bro
Awesome video!!! If you ever decide to pull your diffs, completely, apart. Brake cleaner is a good thing to use to remove all the diff fluid and possible grime that might be in there
Yesss that's exactly what I use my bro. Thanks for your time, hope you are enjoying the channel see ya round brother.
Does it need aluminum diff carriers? I hear the plastic ones break
Good video on how to refill your diffs the proper way!
Appreciate that brother, glad you enjoyed..... thanks for the kind support/Sub and see ya round brother
Great information and video
Thanks for the kind words brother
Just a FYI, use TA Emerald TAE4550 Nitro Clean for your gears... it CLEANS ALL of the fluids off of the gears and the housing’s WAYYYY better than brake clean. 👍🏻
Thanks buddy, I have been wanting somthing better 👌👍
Appreciate your time brother.... Hope your enjoying the channel
See ya round
Have you thought about becoming a hand/foot model? Seriously though, good vid, thanks. Kraton 6s V5 arrives tomorrow. Planning on doing the oils (50K front, 300K centre, 20K) rear before running it along with some shimmage. Subbed.
🤣😂🤣😂 Yeah I really show off my hands in my new Xmaxx Shoe Goo Video.
That sounds good for the Diff fluids though I like 500k in the center, but 300 is good. Internal shimming is almost never necessary with the v4 and v5 diffs, maybe just an outer shim by the bearing depending on how much play there is between the diff and the bulkhead sliding left and right.
Appreciate the Sub brother, see ya round
Great video as usual ! Keep those vids comming !
Appreciate that brother... Means a lot
Hope your enjoying the channel my man, see ya round
@@3SonsRC i really do, comming back to RC after 20 years pause. HPI Savage times ;) Ive got a lot to learn. Soon getting Arrma Outcast 8s. All Your vids help a lot. A specially service vids and m2c upgrades. Bashing vids are also awsome!
@@angrykaren cool 😎👍
Good to hear brother
GREAT video with great info , as usual . I dont have a ton of experience driving different set ups but I just changed all my diff oils but I did 50k front 300k center and 20k rear. 2 questions , What would thicker oil in the center do ? I have an exb so I have the lsd in the rear so is 20k still optimal ? Thx for the insigjt . Peace
Great questions and thanks for the look.... Glad you found it helpful
That's a good setup honestly what ya got.
Lots of guys go 500k center for 6s trucks but with the LSD's if you go that thick the center locks up too much possibly and won't let the lsd work as well. Thicker in the center will help if you are still bleeding too much power to the front end (want more wheelie and backflip go thicker center) .... You will see it on launch if your fronts are ballooning really bad and rears are planted and not ballooning. Though some ballooning is expected. So while the norm might be 50/500/30k with the LSD's is definitely fine to drop that a bit so the LSD's can do there work. So I think you should run what ya got and see if you like it... Might be perfect
See ya round brother
the 4 small gears are planetary gears that orbit the sun gears that drive the diff cups 🤠🏁
Yup.... Tomato tomoto
😂😂
Hope you 3njoyed the video... Check some of the newer ones.... This one's an oldie😎👍, see ya round,
Cool man! Love this video! Super informative (:
Appreciate buddy, glad it was helpful. Thanks for your time
Good video my dude
Appreciate that kind support there brother, hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round friend
!!! nice video!! Please one question? Because I try for first time to change diff oil of my arrma kraton 6s v3!! What is it the the best and safe diff oil for the rear-Center and ifront differential?
Ps: the Center diffential it is new and (arrma kraton v5)
Am not crazy about how fast goes or wild the kraton v3!!!! But I like more the safety and the best safety oil for the differential!!! Thanks
Great question brother,
I run 50k/500k/30k (fr/c/R) in most of my Arrma rigs, if it's Shorter Wheel Base like the Outcast maybe 300k in the center. It's a safe proven setup that many use and I have been using for years.
Hope your enjoying the channel brother, see ya round
Thanks for the answer!!
Super mega like 👍
Appreciate buddy.... Thanks for your time!
Hahaha silicone oil for the differentials? 🤪 small mistake , can be bigger trouble. But nice save for the video . With the note 👌🏽 I just do the swap for my 3 diff for my new stock exb mojave 200k 500k and 100k 🤪 what you think about this thickness diff oil?
I swear I was more focused on making the video than the thickness of the fluid pouring out😂🤣
Realized it after.... Too lazy to reshoot.
Glad you got something out of the video and hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
What’s the difference running heavier fluid in the rear vs the front? I hear some people doing that.
Truggy and monster truggy is usually lighter in the rear so the rear and slides over in turns and helps steering.... Less push. Thicker in the back than front does the opposite, truck rear does not come around as easy harder to steer less predictable more Monster Truck wild. For better handling go lighter in the back, I honestly don't know the advantages of lighter in the front than rear.... Most don't run like that
Appreciate your time and GREAT question, hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
@@3SonsRC Ahh okay gotcha, I understand now.👍 Thanks for responding and happy bashing!
Great video thanks
Appreciate the kind words.
Glad you got something out this older video 👍👍 that's why I do them, to help the community.
Hope to see ya round brother
The main gear is called a Sun gear not a planetary gear. The smaller gears inside the diff are called Planetary Gears.
Yup fair point, this was an old video and I was kinda noob 😂🤣 but I wouldn't put it past me making similar mistakes today, so while your right I'm just a big kid playing with toys putting out hopefully helpful or entertaining content for the community. Not looking to be "the authority" you know but yes, your 100% right. Appreciate your time watching several of my videos brother, the newer stuff is better, I'm kinda ashamed that some of my older videos have this many views with the mistakes I made 😂🤣 but whatever I don't take myself that seriously, I try my best but "Mistakes were made" 🤣😁
See ya round
I just got a brand new 6s KRATON how often do you have to change the differential oils????
Answered your other comment brother 😎👍
Helpful, thanx
Man stoked you enjoyed, hope to see ya round brother
I’m new to the RC world. How often do you have to change the diff oil’s????
Sup buddy and welcome to the hobby, hope your enjoying the channel.
You don't really need to change the oil at all really so long as they are not leaking or broken gears inside but yoy will know that really quickly 😱. So maybe check on them every few months depending on how often you run them, see if there still full.
Before I put them in the truck I sit them for 15 minute intervals different angles and watch for leaking before I put them in the truck.
I would say wouldn't be a bad idea once a year to take all your diffs out and check them out make sure they're full as some type of maintenance schedule👍
See ya round brother
What grease do you use to coat the diff after you have it put together and ready to reinstall it in your truck?
Oh I'm sorry I didn't mention that. I Use Lukas Red N Tacky #2... It's dirt cheap at the Auto store... Don't waste your money with the hobby store stuff.... Not for bashing anyway!
Hey 3sons would you hazard a guess as to why 50t n 46t brand new Arrma spur gears fully built always seep/leak from the rear o ring 2200kv max8 combo never the gasket
Thank you for any help 💯😎
Let's see,
What K diff grease you using?
Is that Red O ring stretched and worn out? (maybe need a new one)
What version diffs?
If v4 or later should have the shim indwr the pin that goes over the red ring so that's better.
You could also be overfill the diff??
Hope that helps a bit?
@@3SonsRC 300k diff oil Team AE, brand new red o rings top and bottom, V4 diffs brand new internals so I’m leaning towards overfilling of diff but I’m at the cross pins and let air out inbetween fills from empty to cross pins
So above all else I think I’m overfilling them and I leave green slim o ring grease also sloppy on orings so it’s going through
Thank you for you real quick help I’m actually doing the gills now on centre diff it’s the only one giving jibb
@@3SonsRC hey 3 Sons Rc so after all that I swapped out the bearings and I think that was the issue WHY that’s what I still don’t know but all is well for the moment
Just wanted to say thanks for your help 💯✅
@@gonzodetroitify np brother.... Glad I could help
Can you please tell me if lawnmower oil will work
Don't bro 😂🤣
RC shock and diff oil is silicone based and there are different weights, no idea the weight of lawnmower oil or how corrosion it might be..... Unless your just messing with me, if that's the case. Ya got me
Hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
AWESOME VIDEO! THANKS
Thanks buddy, appreciate you coming by 👍🙌
Stay Safe Brother
GOOD JOB BRO. DO YOUR THING🤜🤛💯🍻✌️
Appreciate my man, thanks for coming by and support
Hi! Love you videos. Im a noob in this world of hobby grade rc’s. I’ve done some research already and watched a bunch of yt vids and decided to get a kraton 6s v5 as my first car. Do you recommend to reshim the diffs of a brand new k6 v5 along with changing diff fluids? Im at about below average skill in doing my motorcycle tranny and some mechanical jobs in cars. But im a bit hesitant to reshim a bnew k6 out of the box being a newbie and no available parts nearby. Would love to know what you think. Thanks!
Thanks for stopping by and I'm glad your enjoying the channel.
You won't need to reshim the diffs of a v4 or newer diff as there usually spot on, maybe check the external shims that I touched on but don't make it too tight, but should be good good from factory BUT DO check fluid levels and adjust to defferemt if you want.
Somtimes diffs loosen up over time so not a bad idea to check on them after 6 months to see if internally/externally they are too loose.... But much of this still applies for knowledge sake.
And fear not brother I think you 1:1 Auto mechanics knowledge will help a lot!
See ya round brother
@@3SonsRC thank you for the advice! Exactly what I need. Goodluck in your channel! You deserve way more🔥
So kind,
Feel free to share with others
Hey buddy, question for the M2C 3402 Differential Out Drives, is it the center ones that you are supposed to replace?
I replaced them all for M2C drive cups and outdrives, but if you like feel free to rock the stock ones till they start getting shreaded.
These eliminate the slop and are way tougher... But I just started my crazy build with them because I had them.
See ya round bro
@@3SonsRC nice thanks buddy. Just wanted to make sure I knew where they were meant to go first. I put and guessed the center. I think I will change them out but will probably run the stock ones on the front and rear for now.
Do you have any 8S battery pack recommendations? Something that would fit in the 6S EXB.
@@DonnieKluck no such thing brother as an 8s pack.
You would need 2x 4s packs and an esc that can handle it. IMHO 8s in a 6s Kraton is overkill, very hard to fit, very heavy and you will break more stuff. But to each his own.... Some make it happen.
Stronger punch settings, motor pinion esc will impact performance more and then higher C batteries help as well.
@@3SonsRC yeah when I meant 8S pack I was referring to wait 4S packs would recommend.
I was not sure if anything could fit in there with 2 4S packs since it is a 6S chassis and battery compartment. Didn't know if you had experience nor ideas. That's all.
Yeah it probably is an overkill but I was like hmmm maybe I will try it. Since I have the head room in electronics and motor to make it work. Now if everything else can handle it that is a totally different story.
@@DonnieKluck ok, yeah you would have to get two small 4s batteries and stack them and the MAH would have to be really low to fit, but that would be too low MAH for descent run time.
6s is plenty IMHO. Just not enough room really for 8s.
So how would I know if my diffs need to rebuilt or shimmed right from the manufacture on my 6S EXB? I am torn here and just trying to figure out what I actually need to do if anything. Since I seen a lot of videos and posts out there just not sure what is current these days or if the issue has kind of been resolved.
They won't need a rebuild for sure, v4 and later diffs don't need internal shimming or much at all. Wouldn't hurt to open them up to see if they are low on diff fluid. But you would not be the least responsible person to just bash it now and check later 🤣😂
i used lucas moley bearing grease thinned us accordingly to suit like any other tool / car i ever worked on this silicon oil fer rc is odd to me. that stuff is normally used on food equipment stuff in food service world
So far so good
I just got the Mojave. Are the diffs/oils the same in it? Why does arrma ship these with diff oil that is bad for the performance/durability?
Sorry I missed this question bud,
Most arrma 6s trucks come with the standard front/center/rear 10k/100k/10k
I usually go 50/500/30...but that is for bashing and tricks... Not the same as a SCT, you would want to likely go thinner on all those compared to my setup. I would reach out on the Arrma Facebook group because I don't have a Mojave... Though I really want one.
Arrma sets up the diffs for general bashing and getting started.... As you get better with the truck you will want to adjust based on your driving style and desires.
Appreciate your time
See ya round brother
@@3SonsRC hello may I ask what would be a benefit from me changing my center diff from 100k to 500k? Mojave 6s bashing jumping backyard style, I do like the ability to turn tight. What weight would you say? I'm thinking 50k 500k 30K or is this too stiff?
I want to buy the Arrma Infraction and I want to swap diff oils, what cst should I use (front/rear). I wanted to buy the 100k cst but I couldn't find anywhere, can I use 80k?
To be fair I have no street Bashers so I haven't looked I to what's preferred for those. In Off Road Bashers a common setup is 50k front, 300-500k center, 10-30k rear. I imagine street Bashers would be different though for street handling and straight line performance preferred. I would hop on the Facebook forums for Arrma Street Bashers and do a search.... I'm sure plenty of dudes have chimed in. Super Appreciate your time, hope the video helped and hope you're enjoying the channel, see ya round brother.
@@3SonsRC thanks👍
I thought he was in 1.25x speed the entire time..
🤣😂 Yeah I try not to bore people with my slow talking... But I have started a different technique that sounds a little better... Thanks for dropping a comment!
Appreciate your time brother, hope your enjoying the Channel.
See ya round
Hi, how tight must the grub screw on a typhon 6s center diff be? Thanks
Thanks for stopping by and excellent question. If your meaning the tiny grub screw on the center diff case that holds the spider gears, the plug hole to access the pin under the sun gear,.... Just flush to the outside of the plastic cup.
If your talking about the grub screw that holds the pinion on the motor shaft, as tight as you can crank it with red loctite my preferred.... But don't use 110% of your strength and strip the screw... With proper MIP tools (not Allen key) you should be able to get it tight. Is that what you were asking?
Hope that helps and hope your enjoying the channel 😎👍
See ya round
Will this combo oils work for 3S Losi Baja Rey 1/10?
Thanks for your time and I hope you enjoyed!
I know some of the diff tips here may apply, but the weight of the oils reccomended for your 1/10 scale Losi would definitely be different than the 1/8 scale MT basher this went in. I'm sorry but I could not make a reccomended weight for the diffs as I don't have any Losi. Though I NEED a Losi LMT in my life.
Wish I could help more brother
See ya round
Also when you take out the diffs, what is that grease that is coating the whole outside? I dont have anything to re-grease it so trying to find out what I need to get so I can put the diffs back in once I get them filled with diff fluid.
Do you think 20K, 200K, 20K in my 6S rig would be good for the diffs?
For the Outside diffs I use Lukas Red N Tacky... Never mess with that Hobby Store grease as it's too expensive.
I usually run 50/500/30k F/C/R in most my 6s rigs. But with LSD's like are in the EXB 200-300 is the most ya want to go in the center, and maybe just 30k up front. You can 100% just run it as is and see if you like the LSD feel.
It's a preference thing but with the LSD's I have in my Mojave I just run it stock
@@3SonsRC gotcha thanks buddy. I was taking it apart to check the levels and figured I would start with something either stock or different mix. Do you recall off the top of your head what stock weight is? It's like 10,000/100,000/10,000 right?
Exactly 👍... If there low maybe add a little bit thicker fluid... Like if the front is light add some 30k??No need to mess with a complete swap when you haven't run er yet.
@@3SonsRC So one other question for you, is adding thicker diff fluid in front F/C/R diffs mainly just getting rid of the effects of it working like an LSD and thus not making it a LSD to some degree?
@@DonnieKluck I'm no LSD expert but thicker fluid will not stop the effect unless your going 1mill (not reccomended) but will lesten the transfer for power from front rmto rear (center diff) helping with ballooning etc, or L/R effecting the slide into turn and pulling out that's why in the rear you don't go too thick or your car will SUCK at turning. 20-30 is fun in the rear...and 20 Likley perfect with LSD in the rear depending on preference. So thicker does kit stop LSD, but you don't want to go as thick as standard diffs if you do have LSD's
Some Dudes like to use real thick diff fluid, it's all preference and what you get used to
🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙🤙
Appreciate that brother
Hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round
So what's the difference between let's say 50wt n 50k? I have a kaiju n wondering which one to use. Wt or k? Please help.? Would 15k in front n 50k in the back be ok or not?
A TON of difference. With is more of a shock oil measure, K is for diffs TYPICALLY 😎👍
50wt will be like a oil.... Where as 50k will be thick like BBQ sauce 😱😂🤣
Huge difference in performance.
500k will be like thick glue consistency etc😜
Flip those weights.
Put the thicker in the front and lighter in the back so the rear end will come around.... Thicker and it won't run as well as it shifts traction. I go f/c/r 50/500/30k and somtimes 300k in the center depending on the rig.
For a Kaiju I would try 30/300/15?? But I don't own one but that's my guess based on weight, size, and wheelbase 😊😉
Hope that helps brother.
Glad your getting somthing out the channel, hit that Sub and👍 Bash on RC Famo
Appreciate ya
Ok thank you for ur help. I'll try 30f, 50r. 👍 I appreciate ur help.
Flip that brother, 50 in front 30 in rear, typically car performance is better with little thicker up front
Nice. I put 100k in my outcast, otherwise it wheelies all the time
Yeah I love wheelies but I want to be able to control it.... I anticipate having to go down to 200k, your not the first I heard that 100-200k is ok for SWB.
Appreciate your time buddy and support!
@@3SonsRC no problem great vids. I run 200 in my lwb Arrmas. 100 in outcast and can still pull a wheelie at will. I couldn't imagine 500😊 it'll be nuts💪👍
@@justins6465 I'm sure your right... But I'm gonna try nuts first....we will see 👀🚀🚀😎
@@3SonsRC of course..thats what it's all about💪 fun fun fun👍
@@justins6465 yeah buddy, thanks again!
I wonder how it ran on 50w oil 😂
😂🤣 I caught my mistake right after I filmed it, figgured I'd fix in editing. Now a days I would have done it over again but these were early days😱🤣😂
Hope your enjoying the channel, see ya round brother
@@3SonsRC I'll stick around
@@imruss18 appreciate brother
Very informative. Thanks. Music is a distraction though ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
He lied a whole 3% 🤣
Please lose the chicken pickin music...Cant hear a word your saying!
Old video brother, gotten better here. I really should redo this whole video the production is crap compared to my newer install videos.
But I do appreciate the comment and time buddy
@@3SonsRC 💯👍👍
🤣🤣🤣 I like this guy 🤣🤣 HE IS AWESOME I GOT TO HAVE COFFEE TO KEEP UP WITH WHAT HE'S SAYING OT TAKE SOMETHING TO SPEED ME UP . my slow azz need to rewind every 3-4 words 🤣🤣🤣🤣 MY WIFE IS ANNOYING BECAUSE I KEEP REWINDING WHAT'S BEING SAID 🤣 she just as slow as me she act like she understood everything he said . I wish she go find something to do so i can do this 🤣🤣🤣 , first I'm gonna subscribe this channel and than hid her car keys to give her something to do 🤣
This is got to be one of the funniest comments ever on my channel bro this made me smile, thank you so much for the subscription I appreciate your time and kind comments and also just know that back in this older video I was experimenting with speeding up the dialogue a little bit and I've gotten better and more limited in my use of this so enjoy the channel and see around brother😎👍
Definitely not a problem 🤣 my wife looked for her keys for over 2hrs 🤣🤣🤣 NOW SHE'S GOT TO CLEAN UP THE MESS SHE'S MADE ... me 🤣 I get to watch more videos on rc's lol , I just ordered the "Powerhobby Grippers" for my Typhon 6s BLX v5 , I ordered the red ones being I have the the red an black one . So I been on here looking at some of the car game , you are definitely on point , you have good content 👌 . I fly nice big Rc jets an prop aircraft . So this Typhon 6s v5 is my first powerful car I'm just going to condition it to stay running nice an have a nice look overall not much changing thing other than wheels an gears. If I got to change ESC's an motor an stuff for much faster I will get the infraction or something an put my own system in it right . Lol but than again THATS HOW THE AIRCRAFT GAME GOT ME WITH THE "Got'tem Scotty" 🤣
M2c , I'm going to look in on the website also 👍