STEADY REST for SOUTH BEND LATHE Tips 702 tubalcain
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 24 авг 2024
- Here's a suggestion on "HOW TO SET-UP A STEADY REST ON THE LATHE".
Please LIKE-SUBSCRIBE-RING THE BELL & COMMENT.
I have 1200 other shop videos on youtube
#howtorunalathe#machineshop#howtorunabridgeport#whatisit#mrpete
![[DOKKAN BATTLE] Worldwide Campaign Announcement Video](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zxfEiMksZQs/mqdefault.jpg)
I run computer controlled machines and watch these because I want to know what my father used to do, to reconnect with what I used to do, what I loved about my job. I hate being a co-owner and sitting in an office most of the time so this takes me back to when we made things by hand to last forever. I hate the plastic crap people buy made in China and wish that people could go back to the days when we earned our wages, we made things others would want, and honestly I want to retire so that i can have an old fashioned machine shop at home to replace the very computers that I design. Thank you Mr. Pete for your willingness to teach the world what we have forgotten.
Really appreciate the rundown on the steady rest setup, especially getting it centered to prevent it walking out with the indicator tool you made. Thanks Tubalcain!
All I can say is thank you I don’t think I’ve told you enough
You are the teacher of teachers sir
And I will continue watching and liking your videos long after your gone sadly that is all any of us could ever hope for so thank so much
Wow, thanks
Mr. Pete, I just got a heads up about this video. I wanted to stop by and thank you for the shout out. Have a very merry Christmas and best of luck to you for a healthy and prosperous New Year. Stay well sir.
Merry Christmas Joe. I have been enjoying your steam engine Bill. You are a very good communicator and teacher. Lots of details when they are necessary.
It is cool to be able to eaves drop on two great teachers interacting. Thank you both for all you do for us that are trying to learn. Merry Christmas to all.
Mrpete I need to say that.I´m here with the rest of the human race waiting for your video to come and put a cherry into my day.And gess what happen today?I got in the mail a test bar for the lathe centers aligment like the one you show that came from India in a wonderful wooden boss.Beautiful.Hard to believe but things happen.Thank you.
That is a wonderful item, you will enjoy using it
Hi Mr. Pete, great videos. I can understand why the work would tend to walk out of the chuck if it appears to run "true" but out of line with the center line of the lathe.
I worked at Boeing Vertol many years ago and the procedure we used was to simply indicate the bar or tube concentric at the chuck, slide steady rest with retracted rollers or brass bars, indicate true at the right end (by soft hammer tapping), and simply slowly touch the piece by moving the 3 steady jaws until they touch slightly, then oil. If not done carefully, t's possible that it might move the piece 1 thousand out of line, but we never had the bar creep out of the chuck. Also, if not careful, you may obviously get some taper, but highly unlikely since it would take turning the whole length of the piece to notice it, and that would not be possible with a steady rest on it.
If there's a true bore or center drilled hole, then you don't need to true the hanging end, by using a live or dead center, or bull center.
If the OD was out of round or rough, and it was going to be turned at a later operation, we would take a light cut where the steady jaws would be touching, as long as the piece was supported by a center.
I would be interested to know if you and other viewers see a problem with doing it that way, to make sure I don't have any misconceptions.
Thanks again, I believe we all learn something new from your videos regardless of experience.
👍👍
Cool, your teaching Adam as well!!!
well done Mr Lyle.....again a winner video....cheers from Florida, Paul
This is getting to be a habit... I get up and the first thing I do is log in to see if Mr. Pete has a new Video... haven’t done this since Howdy Doody and Buffalo Bob!
Mr. Pete, thanks for illustrating another way of adjusting steady rest. The method I've always used is a little different, and possibly simpler. Chuck a length of stock the same diameter as the shaft you wish to support. Extend six inches beyond the chuck. Indicate this stock to minimum runout. Adjust steady rest to this part as close to the chuck as possible. Lock jaws and move steady rest out to the position you wish to support. The shaft will then be supported true to the chuck's C/L and will not creep.
Hello Mr. Peterson,
Two THANK YOU's for you today.
1) for watching Joe Pie's channel and learning this method.
2) for taking the time to share with use.
Take care
Paul,,
Mr. Pete, I clicked on this video by browsing youtube. I would like to thank you for what you are doing and taking the time to explain everything. You are a true teacher and reminded me of the great teachers who tought me everything that I know. God bless you sir, I wish you and your family a Merry Christmas and happy holidays.
Thank you very much for the kind words
At 59 comments the discussion had been good. There are lots of good suggestions, concerns and solutions. I have virtually no experience with a steady rest. They seem simple and intuitive. I like the varied suggestions. I am always wanting to employ best practices. This can include expedient practices as well.
Thank you Lyle for prompting the discussion.
Great video! Three things I love in machining, steady rests, line boring, and boring. Yes it takes time for "setup" but as you've demonstrated that's where the talent comes in. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Thanks
Hi Lyle, interesting setup, and more importantly well communicated that you learnt this from Joe, just proving that you continue to learn every single day in this game no matter how many times you have been round the block! Well done. Cheers, Jon
I think sanding over the steady is poor practice as that grit is going right into that soft brass and embedding itself where it will be wanting to just keep wearing. the brass and whatever is running against it. Maybe I am over thinking it but don't think I would do it.
Great illustration, always a great teacher.
Thanks for showing this tip the problem is real and can be quite alarming as you say.
Thank you Mr Pete.
I learned a lot. All of the things that you explained were now to me. Mary Christmas to you and yours.
At 70 years old, I'm still learning from both you and Joe Pie. You both are the teachers I never had when I was in school. Much thanks to you and have a wonderful Christmas holiday with your family.
Thanks
Great presentation. I saw Joe's video first and could follow, but I would have to view a few extra times to understand the blocks, etc. Then I found yours, which I was able to follow easier. I think the 4 I watch most are you, Joe, Tony, and Enots Engineering. THANKS !!
Thanks
Brilliant, simple, gonna try it! Thanks for all your videos. I've watching for years and have learned so much.
Thanks, Mr. Pete! Always a good time in the shop with you. Wish I had steady and follower rests for my 9" SBL. Been putting aside bits of steel to fabricate them, but haven't reached critical mass yet.
Great trick Mr Pete! A handy tool for frequently doing steady rest work is a live center with a four jaw chuck mounted on it. Dial in the o.d. and then make contact with the steady rest bearings. You can even take a cut to true up the o.d. if your stock isn't round. there's lots of ways to "skin a cat". 👍🇺🇸
I know it must be incredibly difficult coming up with new topics for videos, but I love these tutorial videos of yours. I hope you can come up with some more ideas like these.
I do too, I’m running out of good content.
I recently built my own steady rest for my southbend, since they are quite pricey. It was pretty simple and maybe a good video idea for you and would help a lot of folks who dont have one. Glad to share if it helps
Perfect timing. I in fact had a problem just a few days ago with my work creeping out of the chuck while using a steady rest. I will have to give this a try and check my set up before I run any more of the pieces. Thanks
Very informative for this old woodworker that has never stood in front of a metal lathe. I have a wood lathe but that is no comparison to your equipment. But I like the method you used for this set-up.
Uncanny ! One never ceases to wonder just how many stratagems and devices a thoroughly competent professional hides up his/her sleeve. Thank you AGAIN Mr Pete ! And happy holidays to you and all your dear ones. Keep safe, cheers.
Thanks
What did I miss? The whole point of a steady rest is that you cannot count on the chuck to hold a long piece perfectly on the center line without support. If, say, your indicator bar was only 0.5° off axis, the point would describe a circle 0.050 larger (or smaller) than your planned 2.000". Your steady rest would be on-center, but it wouldn't touch the work piece (or it would be 0.050" too tight to run).
I suppose you could indicate the end of the indicator bar (if it had a true end), and tap it in so it sits on the center line, but without that I don't see how this method could work.
A good tip for sure.
I have never heard of the creeping of the work.
Now I know!
Thanks as always.
Glad you made this. I have a steady rest but never used it....probably would have learned this lesson the hard way (like so many others). Thanks!
I think an easier way to do it would be to put a say 6 inch long sacrificial part in the chuck, turn it to the diameter of the long part you want to put in the steady rest and adjust the steady rest with it being close to the chuck adjust it to the diameter you just turned to match your shaft and then move the steady rest down the bed to use the longer part.
Hi Mr Pete, season's greetings to you and your's, thanks for the tip, stay safe, best wishe's for the new year, Stuart uk.
Nice photo of you with Steve and Elizabeth !
Thanks for yet another way to skin the cat. . Wishing you and Joe p a merry Christmas. .
👍
Thanks for this input. It takes quite some time and calls for extraordinary tools.
What about using a last word indicator, sweep along the upper part of the stock, using the carriage and adjust the tail stock. Then make the indicator sweep the edge 90 degrees towards 'You, along the part of the stock towards the operator, and adjust the tail stock.
Hey Mr. Pete, I just got a steady rest for my 9A, something I’ve been wanting for a long time. Much to my delight when I got to the sellers house he also had a milling attachment also for sale. I would have had buyers remorse if hadn’t bought it as well. These items are getting hard to come by up here in Canada. I watch your videos all the time and find them quite informative. Maybe in the future you could do a tutorial on the milling attachment. Thanks very much.
Nice find
good advice but i always just set my steady rest up next to the chuck adjust it in and when im done i move the steady rest to the other end and lock it down. presto your done
Good morning! I agree with your theory on this method, but I believe you are making some assumptions. What if your set bar is not perfectly straight, or your 3 jaw chuck is not running true. These 2 things would necessitate a different "setting" of your pin height. I can see where one could have excess clearance on the steady rest pads if you set them to an eccentric pointer pin. I always use a 4 jaw chuck, indicate the part true at the jaws, set the steady rest in place, and adjust the rest pads until the workpiece indicates true at the end. Now, if the workpiece is bowed or bent, there is another problem. By standard procedure, the area where the pads of the steady rest will contact, should be turned true to the chuck. This would then be a safe, correct, and accurate setup. Thanks for all you do, and taking the time to spread your vast knowledge and experience to the rest of the world.
We’ll call this “The Mr Pete method”. I’ve tried to locate your instructions on how to use the South Bend follower rest also.
I haven't seen pipe like that since I was he senior engineer at the Asheville generating plant. I made an engine stand using similar pipe for the engine axis of rotation..350 Chevy block and no flex.
Have a merry Christmas
This is a great method, but the underlying assumption is that the feeler jig is running true when it's in the chuck. If it's cocked, it will sweep a circle that is larger than the indicated measurement (in this case 1.000") and the rollers will be sloppy on your 2.000" diameter stock. If the stock diameter is greater than that of the circle swept by the feeler, the rollers will be tight on the stock. At the end of his video, Joe Pie gives instructions for indicating the part and adjusting the rollers.
All those cool toys ,, must be cool being you . You are the cool neighbor that had all the toys no one else had . Merry Christmas , God bless you and yours . Jesus , the reason for the season .
Another fine video mr.pete....I always learn something...often something about machining too! Fancy that..
I put the rest up near the chuck and set the jaws there where I know the stock is running true.
Lyle, thank you for this tip _and_ for pointing me to one of Joe's videos on this topic!
A steady rest is a great asset to any lathe! I actually had to fabricate one for some large rollers I had to bore the center pins out! The roller was approximately 24” in diameter.
Obviously it wasn’t a tool room lathe I made it for!
That was a fun project, and it actually worked really well!
👍👍
Thanks for taking us along on another great video! Merry Christmas!
Merry Christmas
If your steady rest positions repeatably on the lathe bed there is an easier way. With the work piece in the chuck, position the rest right next to the chuck and align the rest supports. Open and slide the rest down to the working position and lock it down. Done! Aligning the supports to the work next to the chuck should be the right size and the right spot. If the rest does not slide precisely on the bed you might align it with some sort of spacer block or caliper measurements. Most of my lathes have factory rests that slide precisely aligned on the bed. But one has a rest that I built designed carefully to align on the bed for this purpose. While Joe's method offers a concentric and round alignment if your work is a little rough or out of round concentricity and precision are a waste of time. This method offers precise alignment quickly and also allows trial spins by hand near the chuck to test the function before you move it into position. Beware the clocking in the end of a part with a dial indicator for concentricity doesn't work. Scanning along the length and the height of the part with an indicator can tell you if it is truly straight. This activity is often overlooked but critical in some cases. Crummy stuff like muffler tubing can be turned successfully without binding with just a little clearance. You may want to loosen the chuck a little when you reposition rest and tighten after the work is held by the rest. The rest may force the workpiece into a more favorable alignment and a re-chuck operation might be worthwhile. You can use the rest for operations other than turning or facing. I have held long things for sanding and polishing also forms and bobbins to wind wire on. Also things that get painted, welded, plasma cut or just measured. Like a lot of tools in the shop you won't use it every day but when you need it nothing else will do. Trying to get along without one can lead to an unsafe setup and disastrous results. Be careful.
JY
Good tip from two great teachers.
What a great idea Mr Tubelcain.....by the way, your close up camera work is fantastic, best wishes, Paul
Thanks
You make it look so easy, even I could do it.
Great video. Nice easy setup. Thank you for sharing.
Excellent tutorial Mr. Pete, thanks! Dave in RI
would it make sense to make your setup tool with a center at the end and use the tail stock to assist in aligning it. you could put a set screw in the side of the bar to hold the pin in place or use a bolt at the end with a center drilled in the bolt head.
The tracks go all the way to the station. I set the steady next to the chuck when the work is stright.
Thank you. I have been looking forward to watching this video.
👍
Great video, thanks for sharing
Thank you Mr Pete.
Merry Christmas sir, may God bless you. Thank you for the knowledge you have passed on to so many.
Thanks for watching, and happy new year
Thanks for sharing and Merry Christmas!
Thank you Mr Pete, I am learning how to use my 2002 10" X 36" Harbor Freight gear head and was wondering how on earth to use the thing with brass bearings.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Yes.
Great idea will try that this weekend, always some great the way you present
Thanks again Mr. Pete. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
I was watching a video from 2019 and saw your T- shirts on storefront, ordered so long for now. You should put that link in every video.
Thank you for the great video. You explained the setup very well.
Great video as usual 👌 good tips
Glad you like them!
Great job teaching us today I would have never made a tool like that for my steady rest thanks again Mr Pete for what you do and Merry Christmas to you and your family
Great vid. I had not seen this method prior to this. But I am quite sure I will use it in the future. Thanks
Thanks so much for the info,,
There are several variations with this method. The setting bar may be made much shorter and slide the steady rest up to the head stock to set it. Then the steady rest can be moved to the desired position.
The setting bar may also be installed in the tail stock and held in a drill chuck. If working space is a problem the setting bar can be made with a Morse taper shank. If you want to be fancy the setting bar can be made so that it is a slip fit over a boss on the taper shank (or alternatively fit the setting bar completely over the quill) and it can be rotated to each steady rest position without loosening the Morse taper in the tail stock for each position.
An inverted use of setting bar can also be used to measure the diameter of a machined segment as might be required for a part that is to be a saddle fit onto another shaft. Make a cut on the segment and bring the setting tool mounted in the tail stock up to the segment. Extend the pin until it touches the machined surface. Now measure over the pin and carrier shaft with a micrometer. Doing the inverse of the math that Lyle showed in his illustration you can easily calculate the radius and diameter of the machined surface.
If you should need to measure the outside diameter or radius of a machined segment the same tactic applies but all you need is a dial indicator. Bring the dial indicator up to the machined surface of the segment and set it and the cross slide dial to "zero". Move the carriage over and run the tail stock quill out. Bring the dial indicator up to the tail stock quill until it reads "zero" again. Note how far you moved the cross slide. Now knowing the diameter of the tail stock quill and how far you moved the cross slide you can easily calculate the diameter of the work.
Cheers from NC/USA
I have had "the creep" happen to me before.... Great video thanks! Merry Christmas to you and yours!
I think this could be a good idea .but you failed to mention you must indicate the end of the shaft since it’s sticking out so far from the end of the chuck . most likely it will be running out.
The method that I use is I actually set it between centers with my tail stock and then adjust the actual jars of the steady rest against the work .
But I do enjoy your videos keep up the good work!
Great . I saw Joe Pi's video but I forgot about the feeler idea.
Just wondering-why not set the steady rest up next to the chuck, with a piece of dialed in steel of the same OD as the work, then move the steady rest down to it's final location? I understand the principal of your set up feeler but just wonder if it is really needed to face off a piece of stock. Thanks!
Hi Mr Pete, does this not assume the "feeler" is running true to the lathe centre line, or am I missing something?
When making it, - you could put a centre in it so you can use a centre in the tail stock to steady it whilst doing the setup.
@@jackdawg4579 What about the thumb screw?
I want the same explanation. I was thinking to use the center hole too, but the thumbscrew negates that trick.
@@stevebosun7410 maybe put it in the side rather than the end? as long as it was small enough to turn within the gap required? .Could make it a grub screw in the side even.
If you are going to use a center why not just use the center to set up the steady rest? Faster
Great idea, I’ll be using this in my home shop! I guess a guy could make a shorter version, set the spacing on the steady closer to the chuck, then slide the steady down the ways to where it needs to be.
I wondered about this too. How accurate does a large steady rest with small footprint track on the bed ways? I suspect... Not very accurately.
Great father
My brother very very thank you good technique
You are welcome
Great video sir!
Good tip Mr. Pete, thank you !
G’day Mr Pete. Thanks for sharing I learnt something today that would have been useful some time back, now I know how to fix it should I machine long stock and as I have a mini lathe it won’t be long.
Cheers
Peter
Good tip,thanks🤗🤗🤗
Out of curiosity, why cant you put the work in the chuck and then indicate the work/steady rest into position?
I understand the the idea. It makes sense to set the diameter on the steady rest . But with stick out like that there will be sag . When I indicate the work I always indicate the far end sticking out. ? Do you indicate both ends of the feeler . Can you just indicate the work in the rest I'm not really seeing if there is a benefit. To one or the other . Watch the video 2 time trying to understand why
If the feeler isn't straight in the chuck won't the opening in the steady rest be too big?
Thank you. Any suggestions on seam welded pipe with this set up would be welcomed. I can’t turn the O.d, and have .005 to work with on the I.d, 20” in length, no witness marks.....
and Merry Christmas to you too !
Thanks for a great tutorial Mr. Pete, and Merry Christmas to you and yours!
Good idea. Good video.
Great tips...thanks for sharing. Thanks
Nicely done pretty neat idea thanks!
Thank you Mr Pete!
Lyle,
This is the most helpful tip that I have seen in quite a while. I am still learning how to do large work on little machines. I intend to employ this idea.
With one end faced, the other end needs to faced and finished to length. Do you have a brilliant suggestion to do this on this part?
Would you re-chuck against the chuck face and dimension from the chuck face?
How accurate can you hope to be in a double set up and no Z axis DRO?
I would've liked to see a clock run on the "feeler" end with that much overhang. Maybe a shorter length then simply move the steady to the length of bed needed from the Chuck.
Nice job. I should make me one. Thank you for the Christmas Card. Take care.
You didn't specify that you must indicate the end of the tool at the steady-rest location to insure that it is running true, indicating at only the jaw end could mean that the far end still has runout
Good tip.... Thanks