Hydraulic Cylinder Work, Setting Up a Lathe Steady Rest, Single Point Threading, Manual Machine Shop
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- Опубликовано: 12 сен 2024
- Topper Machine LLC gets lots of interesting jobs, and even though this is a simple one, its a great teaching point.
Learn how we set up our Steady Rest on our 18" Monarch Lathe.
Sit back, and enjoy. Thanks for watching, and don't forget to subscribe!
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As a journeyman electrician with 28 years in the trade, I envy you Josh. Some days watching you, I wish I had gotten into the machinists trade and be in a position similar to yours. Good work and thanks for bringing us along, Sir.
I’m a plumber and those treading machines are awesome, thanks for the info
I am pleased you got a pass with the boiler inspection. This is a great video with lots of detail and I learned a lot, thanks
Thanks. My Inspector is a great guy. Really stepped up for us all in the area after our old one screwed me. I'm glad this was helpful. I'll try to do more informative when I get my new camera. Lol
My mom had two strokes in a row a few years ago. After 20 plus years on my own, my girlfriend and I moved back home to take care of her as she is now wheelchair bound. First year was tough but life goes on and we have fully adapted, even mom who is doing quite well these days.
You are a good son! Taking care of your parents as they age is something that I hold in high regard. Fortunately for me, my dad and brother are close by and ready to do whatever they can. I visit as often as I can, but it's tough with a growing business and family of my own. I have the utmost respect for your decision to move home. Thank you.
And yes, enjoyed the video. Spent many years in manufacturing/remanufacturing and tooling shops but now own an automotive machine shop. So I don't get to work on the things I spent years getting good at and loved machining on. So videos like this connect me with past experiences that I enjoy. I like the engine remanufacturing gig but it is far from being machinist material. As a Journeyman Red seal machinist it is kind of a demotion really, but I do love the final product. Can't say that about any machine or tool I manufactured lol. But I do prefer the operations of real machining. So thank you for the videos.
interesting, first time I have seen someone use a steady without cutting a surface for it to run on.
Well, he does use an adjustable spanner!
You usually have to because the od of the tube isn't round. That out of round transfers into the diameter you turn. If the od of the tube is round and has a good finish there is no real need to cut a steady rest band so it all depends.
He definitely should have but he's just cutting threads so it's not a huge deal.
Nice machine. Bet it will also check and straighten 1.25" SS prop shafts to within .001"!
Thanks for sharing.
Best regards John
Great video man, I'm having trouble Learning to cut threads on my sebastian lathe you make it look easy. I'll figure it out, great job. New subscriber.
"Chineseium" lol
Josh....why arent you using Monarchs speed dial....i can see the screw on the right side of your crossfeed.....you pull it out, give it a quarter turn and let the pin down from its perch....when you turn in your crossfeed screw it will stop....if your threading tool is too far away.....pull out the pin and give it a turn past where it stopped before and let go of the pin ....
The tool will advance further....when you get close to the barrel of the cylinder....you might have to back out on your compound slide to just scratch the tube.....now zero that dial.....dial in your 10 thou on the compound and make your cut...when you get to your relief cut twist your cross slide to the left, backing your tool out....carriage back to the start....now roll your crossfeed screw clockwise till it comes to a stop on your rapid index pin which is your zero on the cross slide....advance your compound another 15 thou and repeat the process....the rapid index pin makes threading fast on most all Monarch Lathes....when finished threading pull out on the rapid index pin and give it a 1/4 turn and return it to its perch
I always wondered what that was for. Nobody I asked could ever tell me. What an awesome feature. Thanks.
When I set up my lathe to thread exactly as you did and cut a thread the thread takes the shape of a "buttress" type thread. No matter how little I feed in it still does it. If I only use my cross slide to feed in it cuts a true 60 degree thread. Using standard 60 degree inserts or properly ground HSS tool bits doesn't matter. My compound and cross slide gibs are properly adjusted. Any ideas?
That's a mystery. I'm guessing something is flexing in your setup. Feeding with the cross slide would cut on both sides of the cutter, balancing the force on the leading and trailing edges. By using your compound, all the force is on the leading edge and it may be flexing. Just a guess, but maybe a direction to investigate.
...Johnny Holland...your compound is set at the wrong thirty degrees...
...it needs to be thirty degrees from perpendicular to the spindle axis...
...not thirty degrees from parallel with the spindle axis...
...when set properly on your lathe it may read 60 degrees...
How do you know the far end is running true without indicating anything???
Because know my chuck is true.
He doesn't 🤣🤣
The compound slide doesn't need to be at an angle..
I had a chieseium chuck backing plate I swear my threads were right so I waited for tap to come and I was right it was there threads not mine
Interesting video Josh. Q- It appeared the lead in chamfer for the thread may have been too shallow to help start the nut, was that possibly causing some of the starting of the nut problem? Just an observation. Thanks for sharing.
Trying to remember back to this one. The internal threads of the cast nut were extremely rough. It was a poorly made nut, but it is what I had to work with. The customer was happy with the final product.
We never set the crossslide over when threading in UK. Just go straight in to thread depth.
I have seen a couple guys do that. I was taught to do it with the compound . If something works well for you no sense in changing it much. Every time I watch another machinist I usually learn something. That is what is so neat about machine work
Straight in works for fine threads like a 12, but try it with a 4 tpi and the compound is waaaay better and faster
Setting your compound over 29 1/2 degrees puts the utting forces on the front of your tool.....i have done threading your way also with good results....but if you have to remove your tool to sharpen it....having your compound at 29 1/2 degrees will aid you in picking up your thread again.....advance your tool to just above your thread and engage your half nut like your going to cut your thread....now stop your lathe leaving your half nuts engaged....advance your threading tool using both your crossfeed and compound rest till your tool is in the gullet of the thread....at this point zero your crossfeed dial and your compound dial now back out your crossfeed screw and go back to the start of your threads .....dial your crossfeed back to your zero and engage your half nuts your tool should be in perfect time with your thread again
Yeah, in Australia that's how I was taught - straight in
If you set your compound at a angle
Sounds out of round, you would want to machine a section around 1 inch long to keep it concentric with the inner cylinder part
If you don't mind my asking, what does a boiler inspection cost these days?
it all depends. I have $500 into inspections and state registration so far. Not counting the cost of the 3rd party ultrasound my first inspector ordered.
So you just go until the nut threads on? Isn’t there a standard depth?
The standards are based on proportions of the pitch. But those in turn are based on the root radius which is also determined by the pitch. So to save any confusing math, you just cut it till it fits.