Hi, I loved this steady rest, it looks great and I liked your methods, So a couple of suggestions if I may . Consider splitting the ring horizontally with a hinge at one side and a locking mechanism on the other to increase your stock size. And welding wise, Ditch the stick welding and go for MIG, it's easier and structurally solid, grind chamfers on all your joints for better weld penetration. And clamp your components in place wherever possible. All that aside, really well done.
Really appreciate your suggestions. But i sold the lathe and all the equipment. I originally planned to split it but i thought that i would ruin it without and it seemed hard for me to do it.
I am not a machinist but I love these tool making videos. One thing I am is a pretty good welder. Please try tig on your tool projects. Once you master tig welding you will use it exclusively on you projects. It is clean neat and strong. We all love mig and sometimes you just need to stick weld something. But, please consider tig welding for tools. Besides ,it is an excellent skill to master and another great option for making “things”. Someday I hope to be able to make a nice center rest like yours.
Enjoyed the vlog young man. One suggestion. I've been a machinist a long time PLEASE when you are running those machines take the gloves off! This is a serious safety hazard! I've seen terrible things happen to guys wearing gloves while operating machines. Just about a year ago one of my friends lost 3 fingers on his right hand. I carried his fingers to the ambulance in his glove! Keep up the good work but please be careful!
@@yak-machining No harm intended I think you are very talented I just want to see you keep your hands and fingers. I hope you have a long career as a machinist.
@@itsamemario8014 I disagree I dont know where you are from but in the USA its used as a friendly word instaard of calling someone a boy or yougan or anything else that is dis-respectful, As I said before no die-respecct intended towards the creator of this viddeo.
@@itsamemario8014 IM FROM GERMANYTOO! I feel you are a TROLL I will not comment with you anymore! The creator did not get offeneded by the coment only you did! SO have a good day sir and again no harm was intended by my post!!!
Tun up the heat slow down your wire speed should sound like fring bacon. You also are moving too fast after you strike your arc. Try a weaving from side to side a little. However you do it SLOW DOWN! Speed kills your bead in welding but it will also cause you to burn through if you go too slow. Practice makes perfect
wonderful. It took me a long time to recover from the accident. It haunts me but I overcame it because of passion. I now have products as gifts. love forever.
When you have that much material to remove it would have been far better, faster and less wasteful to chain drill inside the diameter you wanted then either hacksaw between the drilled holes or, alternatively, treppan the section (or a combination of both) I've even used a trim router with a small diameter carbide end mill mounted on tool-post without trouble It was spinning a bit fast (around 20,000rpm) so wore out the cutter after about 37 inches of cutting but lasted much longer than expected for a $3.00 tool bit
I made a steady rest for my old Atlas lathe using the outer ring from an old harmonic balancer off a car engine. It worked like a champ. Didn't even have to bore it. It was plenty big enough as it was. I just made the lower half and the mounting plate and clamp.
My machine is the same structure as yours but mine is incomplate, I would be interested in the position and module of the related gears of the transverse machine feed . thanks please if you can answer my question . thx again
My machine is the same structure as yours but mine is incomplate, I would be interested in the position and module of the related gears of the transverse machine feed . thanks please if you can answer my question . thx again
How in hell did you get such a lathe for 150euro, you lucky bastard. In my area you cant find a lathe under 600 in any sort of good condition. Anyway cool build.
Hehe 😜 first the price was at 300, but my dad bargained it down to 150€. But the condition was pretty bad, rusty, worn out etc., so i had to refurbish it
My machine is the same structure as yours but mine is incomplate, I would be interested in the position and module of the related gears of the transverse machine feed . thanks please if you can answer my question . thx again
The Steady Rest turned out Great 👍 really nice build. Enjoyed the Video. I may try to make one for my Lathe like yours. I really like the way it turned out. Thanks
Nice job! Just one thing. Dealing with lathes and using these kind of gloves is really dangerous. Better to use a latex type because in case of snagging they will just break and let your hands free.
Don't use any gloves...PERIOD. Even a latex glove snagged could freak you out just enough to cause you to react in a Negative way causing your reflex to hurt or kill you depending on the situation. Just my 1 cent worth... Otherwise, I wish him the best in all he creates on RUclips....
love it man great job.... Welding.... just Make a Molten Puddle 1st then Slow Waaaay Down on your travel speed during your pass. After this the "Feel" will come to you.
Thank you :) Its still a little struggle for me to change the settings on the welding machine on the right speed and amp, but i will learn Stick welding first
For welding, switch to imperial for a while. Your welds are too cold. 1/8 inch rod gets 125 amps for the .125 inch rod. One inch of rod is 1 inch of weld so don’t move too fast. Drag your rod at a 45 degree angle. It should sound like bacon frying. For clean steel use 6013 rod which is a mild steel 60 thousand psi yield all position rod, but try to only flat weld to start. If that was MIG then lead rather than drag your wire. For stick SMAW you could use a 7014 or 7024 drag rod but it needs 50 to 100 amp more current, but it makes the welding stupid simple at the cost of more heat than you want for a machined part. Do not weld without protecting eyes, exposed skin or without good ventilation. Chip welds with eye protection. Cheers & good welding.
@@yak-machining You need pratice pieces of metal to set machine. Run stingers till you get the hange of it. Quality welding isn't as easy as it looks, that's why there is a 4 year apprenticeship to become a journeyman Welder.
Hello. My understanding is , not ideal to drag the tool backward over the surface you cut. I think you're meant to back away reverse the tool to the starting point and reset for the next cut? (you follow me?) slop in the ways on the cross slide shows a tendancy to improve the depth of cut when you pull out like you're having a shag. Plus why not thread those big pilots into the ring instead of welding? It occurs to me you could retain some accuracy without introducing heat to the pieces. In the detail you made a decent support but NOT the welding. I would be terrified of the thing ( welding is a job I trained to do ). A little weld is quite strong fortunately but . The weld pool must be uniform in both bits being joined. Usually a side to side weaving motion is the answer but very slight to the side of the join then to other ... tic toc tic toc tic toc you see? Use plenty of amps. And practice , practice , practice first. Your welds were too cold and result called bird shit. Superficial, sitting on surface. Thats a tutorial on welding to start with. I don't think "knead it" is any good!!!!!!!! NO GOOD! For a novice very good steady you build and it has qualities far greater than a 100 year old lathe. "This" is intended to be encouraging , though words can come across from different culture in a slighted context. I come from a blunt culture. My speech can sometimes sound rude & offensive ? Be certain I am admiring the bulk of the job!
I agree.. That steady rest should work for light duty work, but I would not trust it for any fine detail machining.. I admire his ambition to make his own tooling, still with machining, there needs to be more attention to tolerances..
You did well, but I don't think the epoxy helped. I would have suggested drilling and threading if looks bother you or removing excess with grinder. That said it's a functional tool be proud. It's not something your going to leave on the coffee table to show company. Though I would it's just the kind of person I am lol.
Must be chilly! “Manual Knurling!!!” Oh my. Keep up the great work! Glad you had someone else weld this time 😜. There are plenty of good welding tips and tricks here on the RUclips. Practice, practice, practice my man, you’ll get it. It’s just like anything else. Epoxy putty to cover up the welds!!!!😂😂 oh man. You’ll get it, just takes time. Proper welder settings and equipment are key. IE....type of wire, speeds, gas, voltage, etc etc.
saubere Arbeit! denke du sprichst deutsch (your dads gesäß xD) bin seit 20 jahren Dreher. wenn ich dir nen tipp geben darf, würde ich dir empfehlen dir als alternative zu den Rollen noch einen Satz Stößel mit HOLZSPITZEN zu machen. Ja HOLZ!!! einfaches, stinknormales weiches HOLZ. Rollen machen eigentlich nur bei sehr großen Werkstückgewichten Sinn. Der große Nachteil von Rollen ist, dass sich Späne zwischen Rolle und Werkstück klemmen können und dir die Oberfläche zerstören können. der große Vorteil von Holz ist, dass du es in Öl tränken kannst und es sich laufend von innen heraus selbst schmiert, kaum verschleiß, glaubt man kaum, is aber so! Ansonsten weiter so :)
Why so unagressive? I had a similar WW II era South Bend lathe and it would take .060" DOC at 0 008" feed per rev in mild steel with no trouble at all given a modestly rigid set-up. I suggest you push the envelope next job you have major stock to remove. The worst that could happen is you stall the machine an maybe break an insert. The best that could happen is you get more productive and learn just what your machine can do in a particulay situation. Don't over-do it. Push it in modest increments. If you have stock and the set up allows increse feed or depth of cut by 20% and so on until the machine starts to stall, then back off a notch. If you're making ribbon chips or bird's nests, chances are your tool geometry is unsuited to your feed and speed. Naturally there are some materials that are more difficult when it comes to controlling chips (copper for example, 300 series stainless, iron pipe) but chip control in plain vanilla steels, alloy steel, brass, bronze, most aluminum alloys poses few difficulties.
With the exception of those welds you did impressive work. Don't you have a buddy that is skilled in that dept? I also don't think your title is 100% accurate ...but it's close!;-)
Dang dude, I see that you’re wearing a heavy coat for permafrost freeze 🥶 your butt off location. Nonetheless, I really enjoyed your video. Working in those freezing conditions just means that you are a badass in my book.
Nice rest you did, it looks great. Not everybody in this world is born with expertise in weldering, but you do a working job, you just can try it more times, and learn a bit more. Congratulations, it takes my like.
I have enjoyed watching this to a point. I can’t get by the errors that I see. I have been in this business Since 1955 and have owned a shop since1971. This type of machining puts real shops in a bad situation. To start off, wearing loose gloves is very dangerous. It wouldn’t take much to see a finger ripped off. I was Distressed to see him drill a hole in a drill press while holding the part with his fingers. I know that this is show and tell, but to constantly show a operator cutting in .010 or .015 cuts sets up a new employee to be terrified when he steps into a real shop. It is not unusual to see .200 or more deep cuts per side. Unless You are stuck with old fashion carbon drills, no pro would use 4 drills to drill a 1/2 inch hole. In my shop we often drill 4 inch holes directly into solid. These videos are fun, but they should keep in mind OSHA and a little more realistic shop conditions. Otherwise newbies quit within the first hour.
Amigo! DAnger!!! cuando usas la contrapunta la debes fijar con sus 2 frenos!! eres un peligro! igual te adoro! gracias! y una cosa mas: por favor trata a tu calibre mitutoyo con un poco mas de cariño, me hace sufrir! gracias! :)
You do some lovely work, and the lathe is a beauty aswell! I am most glad someone like you picked her up instead of her ending up in the trash eventually, scrapped and turned into shit... At least given its price that is what i think the previous owner intended with it sooner or later... I rescued a few machines myself from the shredder... One 70+ year old lathe among them... They are if treated well and given some time a 100x better than any modern nonsense you can buy for ridiculous prices... Even if you have to send them to have them reground, or if you have time and some equipment, hand scrape them to micron accuracy... A gorgeous machine and well done is all i can say! Keep her well in care, and make some way covers to prevent wanton chaos and damage from chips getting crushed under the sliding components...
Thank you for this lovely comment. I recently picked up another lathe wich is made from the 1919 Magdeburg and has alot of modern features like a gearbox, v-ways, lead screw, feed screw and such. Currently i am in the last steps of finishing the restoration
@@yak-machining Aah, well, how could i not post a nice comment at such nicely machined components and a good work on beautiful machinery... I do love machines, so any lovable machine catches my eye and their well-being makes me very happy, as i cant own every machine that would fall into disuse and ruin without a loving owner... Nice work done on them and with them pleases me just as much :p Looking forward to seeing the ``new`` lathe in action or in the process of restoration! You should post more videos, you do nice work and it should be captured and shown, it can serve as either inspiration or at least a online guide for some who would do the same, but have never had a machine before, or havent had one like yours... I was hoping i would find something on Schaerer UN450 lathes, as that is my behemoth in resto, but nothing is to be found, except a 70 dollar manual which lacks the lubrication and equivalency chart by industries manuals... Cunts never replied to me regarding that... 70 fucking dollars for that manual and it lacks among the most critical of pages to be had in a manual... All the best and warmest regards!
@@camillosteuss wow your lathe is definitely much better than my "new" one hahah. And yes, its also hard for me to find any usable info for my lathe but considering that my first one was made in the late 1800s and my "new" one in 1919, i don't expect to find anything. Regarding to the video uploads i can tell you that I just don't have any motivation and time to make videos or invest in any projects (except my lathe restoration), since the situation in europe is getting worse snd everything is so fu...ing expensive. Kind regards to you :)
@@yak-machining Haha, yeah, the Schaerer is a beast... Its an older variant of relatively available UD450, but better imho, a bit slower max rpm, but the systems appear more passionately made... Yeah, that is the problem with buying olden machinery, not all, not many, but some are practically incognito by now and no info is left about them... I get you regarding videos, i really do, as i wanted to post a few things of my own, but i literally dont ever feel like bothering with setting up any sort of camera, and i dont know whether i would show my face or no, as the point is the machines, not me, but oh, as i didnt film anything by now, i guess its not something i will bother with for now... If i decide to film in the future, we shall see... Regarding the ridiculous cost all has come to, visit scrapyards... You will find amazing metal there for pennies, and with a running lathe/mill, you can make a lot of your own stuff that would otherwise rip you off in hundreds or thousands of dollars... I am sickened by prices of almost anything, except for the endmills and inserts from china, as those are relatively cheap, decent and allow me to make parts that i could but would never buy on account of what i perceive as offensively and rudely priced... I picked up about a ton, literally, of steel, and i mean good stuff, offcuts of good grade steel and tool steel and some bronze or brass on scrapyards in the last 7 months, for less than a 1000 euros, from which i made my own indicator holders, mill and lathe hardware, a 140mm 4jaw chuck, a winch&hydraulic crane and so on... I dont know about the situation in europe, as i dont watch news nor bother with malarkey... I live in europe, but i dont give a care about nonsense and sensationalist hysteria of the media... I see prices rise and people wear masks, and so do i when i have to, but to be bothered by shit is below me, i have machines to care about and love to give to metal and my works & garden... I wont spare any time from that to heed what does not affect me in any way whatsoever...
I know the risk because i know my machines power, it has 1,5 kw only. But for the next time i wont use gloves when i work on the lathe. Thank you for the advice
@@yak-machining ONLY 1.5KW ?????. --- A friend of mine got his index finger broken in 2 places and dislocated the knuckle by a 1/4 HP drill hobby drill press,,,,,,That's 186 watts. Your lathe motor is 8 times as powerful. Under the wrong circumstances it has way more power then it would take to pull you arm right out of the socket. Picture yourself with your arms tied to 2 horses pulling you apart in opposite directions. That's what you are up against with that measly 2 HP motor BEFORE Gearing and not adding in the inertia you will be pulled in with. Try this. Stick the lathe in it's lowest direct speed and put a broom stick across the 3 jaw and tighten it into place. Now back it off as far as it will go and then turn it on. ,,,,,Now think what that measly 1500 watts can do to your tibia. Like Rudyard Kipling said about machines, But remember, please, the Law by which we live, We are not built to comprehend a lie, We can neither love nor pity nor forgive. If you make a slip in handling us you die! We are greater than the Peoples or the Kings- Be humble, as you crawl beneath our rods!- Our touch can alter all created things, We are everything on earth-except for God! Be careful and keep up the vids......(I have to make a SR for our Clausing, I picked up a couple ideas from you) Later Bro.
If I ask a drug addict before his next fix to weld, it would be better than yours 🤣, just a nightmare. But, your machining skills and determination are the ones that count. Welding takes time to learn and also many tips here and there. I love your steady rest.
@@yak-machining When you said that you were going to use like Bondo to cover the bad welds I was like, don't worry bud, RUclips is full of them. But damn, after the Bondo cover I was like: he was pretty serious about this 😱🤣. -- Try watching some videos on how to make thick lines, you'll love it. And will help you learn about warping when putting too much heat, penetration, prep the materials, etc.
Enjoyed watching you machine your project. If I may, please look into the tail-stock alignment. I believe the tailstock is sitting low. This condition can be corrected by shimming. I believe Mr. Pete has a video on how this is done.
Hi Yak when you use your lathe you should use dial caliper to adjust the metal that you turning I'm seeing your chuck running out of cue you may have bearing problems in the chuck housing . The procedure is thus place metal in chuck loosely using the dial caliper gauge mounted on a magnet set dial to zero turn the chuck by hand and if off zero adjust a few times when satisfied turn the chuck and the tip of the dial gauge it should read zero over 360 degree turn .
Yeah i already have a dial indicator. The main problem are these old Bronze bearings, they are very worn out and not precise anymore. So did i a upgrade and built completly a new spindle out of scratch with angular contact ball bearings and roller bearings. Its very very rigid now and the important thing is , that it is more precise than the old spindle.
A great build for a young man new to machining I do have a question, why was the thrust bearing placed on the outside next to the thumbscrews when the force is exerted against the inside of the cap with the four screws? As to welding… I’m terrible too but it’s due to a visual impairment, the only way you will get better is by practicing all you can. Look up a channel called “Welding Tips and Tricks” he has a whole series of videos on how to improve your skills with a Mig, a Stick welder or with TIG welding. All three series are excellent for you to watch. Keep up the great vids.
l also make things for my 100 year old lathe using only the lathe. Nice steady rest Looks great!!!. I made a milling attachment for mine that mounts a three inch vise.
For learning how to weld I recommend learning in person from somebody instead of a video so then the person can give you feedback. Welding is mostly just practice once you get a good pattern down. Half moon weave back and forth slowly moving forward. From your welds it looks like you need higher wire speed, and a little more heat can't hurt. Just be careful when welding machines prices so they don't warp. Possibly think of investing in a weld clamping table to minimize warp on machined parts?
Yeah its something i have to learn. My dad is a very good welder but didnt had time to learn from him, maybe someday. I think i should try stick welding first, because in this Video i used a mig welding machine
@@yak-machining Stick is a easier to learn, which is good for beginners. However, while it is much stronger than mig because of how hot it can get (and therefore more penetration), it also causes much greater warp in parts. Still, it is much cheaper than mig to run!
Very good job. I also made similar but a moving lathe steady for tool rest 30 years ago. So you can e.g. cut pieces very quickly without stopping the chuck.
You have earned yourself a subscriber,im making a steady soon too,and i needed ideas,this is the best concept i have seen so far,but i will make mine in a different way, because i would like to make it so you can open the top,for better repeatebility. Greetings from Hungary!
I hope yours turn out even better haha. The function where you can open it , was not a option for me because i forget about it and then it was already too late 😂 But i hope you make a video too
Your machining skills are pretty good. But your welding skills...well.. not so much. It looks like you are NOT using shielding gas when you weld. Flux core is okay, but if you really want better looking and quality welds, get regular welding wire and add in the shielding gas. And your welds will certainly improve. Use a MIG setup... JMHO
Yes the welding was realy bad haha, the problem is that i already spend too much money on my Hobby. Maybe someday i will get a proper welding machine with gas
you did a nice job there my friend, i'd rather have something that works than is pretty that doesn't......was it me or did your lathe appear to run slowly ? i wondered if a higher speed may have helped on some of the turning but it might have been the way it looked on camera
Verry nice. Just one tip, in stead of turning the whole center into chips, I would have spent some time to grind a tool that will cut out the center (trepanning) It would have saved you some time and you would have had some usefull steel left as a bonus.
Please, for the safety of your hands, stop using gloves on the lathe. If you want to see the consequences of using them, search for degloving
Hi, I loved this steady rest, it looks great and I liked your methods,
So a couple of suggestions if I may . Consider splitting the ring horizontally with a hinge at one side and a locking mechanism on the other to increase your stock size.
And welding wise, Ditch the stick welding and go for MIG, it's easier and structurally solid, grind chamfers on all your joints for better weld penetration. And clamp your components in place wherever possible.
All that aside, really well done.
Really appreciate your suggestions. But i sold the lathe and all the equipment.
I originally planned to split it but i thought that i would ruin it without and it seemed hard for me to do it.
I am not a machinist but I love these tool making videos. One thing I am is a pretty good welder. Please try tig on your tool projects. Once you master tig welding you will use it exclusively on you projects. It is clean neat and strong. We all love mig and sometimes you just need to stick weld something. But, please consider tig welding for tools. Besides ,it is an excellent skill to master and another great option for making “things”. Someday I hope to be able to make a nice center rest like yours.
Enjoyed the vlog young man. One suggestion. I've been a machinist a long time PLEASE when you are running those machines take the gloves off! This is a serious safety hazard! I've seen terrible things happen to guys wearing gloves while operating machines. Just about a year ago one of my friends lost 3 fingers on his right hand. I carried his fingers to the ambulance in his glove! Keep up the good work but please be careful!
Thank you for this advice, for the next time i will work wothout gloves
@@yak-machining No harm intended I think you are very talented I just want to see you keep your hands and fingers. I hope you have a long career as a machinist.
@@itsamemario8014 The fellow is way younger than me thats where the term "young man" came from no dis-respect to the fellow at all.
@@itsamemario8014 I disagree I dont know where you are from but in the USA its used as a friendly word instaard of calling someone a boy or yougan or anything else that is dis-respectful, As I said before no die-respecct intended towards the creator of this viddeo.
@@itsamemario8014 IM FROM GERMANYTOO! I feel you are a TROLL I will not comment with you anymore! The creator did not get offeneded by the coment only you did! SO have a good day sir and again no harm was intended by my post!!!
Excellent work
Great video content for only having 1 video, would like see more!
Thanks, im currently working on another Video right now, so stay tuned.
This is fantastic talent of making this, you had amazing idea thanks to your video.
Great job 💯
Tun up the heat slow down your wire speed should sound like fring bacon. You also are moving too fast after you strike your arc. Try a weaving from side to side a little. However you do it SLOW DOWN! Speed kills your bead in welding but it will also cause you to burn through if you go too slow. Practice makes perfect
Thank you, it sounds very logical
15:52 knock knock joke: it’s me I wanne built a lathe steady 😂😂😂
دمت گرم ،کارت درسته استاد
I wouldn't have used a 4 jaw, self-centering chuck, to hold a flame cut disc.
Професійно!
Мені б такий токарний патрон згодився!!!
Now if you made with the ability to open up around piece you would have one as good as orginal.
What brand is your four jaw chuck used in this video?
What is the diameter of the chuck as well? Thank you. Enjoyed the content.
Thank you, its a chinese one but imported by a german company called "paulimot". Its 160mm
このローレットの荒さは外人好みの大きさ？。てか、製作した振れ止め自体おもちゃの大きさかな？
でも、趣味としては憧れます❤❤
Perfect
Технически грамотно было бы прорезать кольцо. На мусорку меньше носить.
P.S . What type of lathe are you use?
everything is good except the crappy welds
i hope those are rip away gloves cause if you didnt know wearing gloves is a bad idea around these machines
I've been a machinist also all my life and I never wear gloves, nor rings, nor scarfs, nor anything else that can possibly remove fingers.
Дядя Витя Леоньтев тебе бы сразу неуд поставил за такое расточительство материала☝️
wonderful. It took me a long time to recover from the accident. It haunts me but I overcame it because of passion. I now have products as gifts. love forever.
Oh what happend to you?
When you have that much material to remove it would have been far better, faster and less wasteful to chain drill inside the diameter you wanted then either hacksaw between the drilled holes or, alternatively, treppan the section (or a combination of both)
I've even used a trim router with a small diameter carbide end mill mounted on tool-post without trouble
It was spinning a bit fast (around 20,000rpm) so wore out the cutter after about 37 inches of cutting but lasted much longer than expected for a $3.00 tool bit
I made a steady rest for my old Atlas lathe using the outer ring from an old harmonic balancer off a car engine. It worked
like a champ. Didn't even have to bore it. It was plenty big enough as it was. I just made the lower half and the mounting
plate and clamp.
My machine is the same structure as yours but mine is incomplate, I would be interested in the position and module of the related gears of the transverse machine feed . thanks please if you can answer my question . thx again
My machine is the same structure as yours but mine is incomplate, I would be interested in the position and module of the related gears of the transverse machine feed . thanks please if you can answer my question . thx again
How in hell did you get such a lathe for 150euro, you lucky bastard. In my area you cant find a lathe under 600 in any sort of good condition. Anyway cool build.
Hehe 😜 first the price was at 300, but my dad bargained it down to 150€.
But the condition was pretty bad, rusty, worn out etc., so i had to refurbish it
Hey, do me a favour .....lose the gloves when you're using the lathe ,super dangerous
No Problem 👍🏼
My machine is the same structure as yours but mine is incomplate, I would be interested in the position and module of the related gears of the transverse machine feed . thanks please if you can answer my question . thx again
The Steady Rest turned out Great 👍 really nice build. Enjoyed the Video. I may try to make one for my Lathe like yours. I really like the way it turned out. Thanks
Nice job!
Just one thing. Dealing with lathes and using these kind of gloves is really dangerous. Better to use a latex type because in case of snagging they will just break and let your hands free.
Don't use any gloves...PERIOD. Even a latex glove snagged could freak you out just enough to cause you to react in a Negative way causing your reflex to hurt or kill you depending on the situation. Just my 1 cent worth... Otherwise, I wish him the best in all he creates on RUclips....
Thanks to all for the shared knowledge, I'm sure a rubber glove can still spook you too
love it man great job.... Welding.... just Make a Molten Puddle 1st then Slow Waaaay Down on your travel speed during your pass. After this the "Feel" will come to you.
Thank you :)
Its still a little struggle for me to change the settings on the welding machine on the right speed and amp, but i will learn Stick welding first
For welding, switch to imperial for a while. Your welds are too cold. 1/8 inch rod gets 125 amps for the .125 inch rod. One inch of rod is 1 inch of weld so don’t move too fast. Drag your rod at a 45 degree angle. It should sound like bacon frying. For clean steel use 6013 rod which is a mild steel 60 thousand psi yield all position rod, but try to only flat weld to start. If that was MIG then lead rather than drag your wire. For stick SMAW you could use a 7014 or 7024 drag rod but it needs 50 to 100 amp more current, but it makes the welding stupid simple at the cost of more heat than you want for a machined part. Do not weld without protecting eyes, exposed skin or without good ventilation. Chip welds with eye protection. Cheers & good welding.
@@yak-machining You need pratice pieces of metal to set machine. Run stingers till you get the hange of it. Quality welding isn't as easy as it looks, that's why there is a 4 year apprenticeship to become a journeyman Welder.
Hello. My understanding is , not ideal to drag the tool backward over the surface you cut. I think you're meant to back away reverse the tool to the starting point and reset for the next cut? (you follow me?) slop in the ways on the cross slide shows a tendancy to improve the depth of cut when you pull out like you're having a shag. Plus why not thread those big pilots into the ring instead of welding? It occurs to me you could retain some accuracy without introducing heat to the pieces.
In the detail you made a decent support but NOT the welding. I would be terrified of the thing ( welding is a job I trained to do ). A little weld is quite strong fortunately but . The weld pool must be uniform in both bits being joined. Usually a side to side weaving motion is the answer but very slight to the side of the join then to other ... tic toc tic toc tic toc you see? Use plenty of amps. And practice , practice , practice first. Your welds were too cold and result called bird shit. Superficial, sitting on surface. Thats a tutorial on welding to start with. I don't think "knead it" is any good!!!!!!!! NO GOOD!
For a novice very good steady you build and it has qualities far greater than a 100 year old lathe. "This" is intended to be encouraging , though words can come across from different culture in a slighted context. I come from a blunt culture. My speech can sometimes sound rude & offensive ? Be certain I am admiring the bulk of the job!
I agree.. That steady rest should work for light duty work, but I would not trust it for any fine detail machining.. I admire his ambition to make his own tooling, still with machining, there needs to be more attention to tolerances..
You did well, but I don't think the epoxy helped. I would have suggested drilling and threading if looks bother you or removing excess with grinder. That said it's a functional tool be proud. It's not something your going to leave on the coffee table to show company. Though I would it's just the kind of person I am lol.
Must be chilly! “Manual Knurling!!!” Oh my. Keep up the great work! Glad you had someone else weld this time 😜. There are plenty of good welding tips and tricks here on the RUclips. Practice, practice, practice my man, you’ll get it. It’s just like anything else. Epoxy putty to cover up the welds!!!!😂😂 oh man. You’ll get it, just takes time. Proper welder settings and equipment are key. IE....type of wire, speeds, gas, voltage, etc etc.
Nice work! going to ''borrow'' some of your idea for my old Winfield lathe that needs a Steady rest.
La réalisation est bien tres efficasse mais les soudures caca pas assez d'intensités c du COLLAGE SA NE TIENDRA JAMAIS TRAVAIL D'AMATEUR
Je sais que ce n'est pas assez et j'ai encore beaucoup à apprendre
What was the additional brass screw meant for that was screwed into the brass bushing and cut off?
It was just screwed in to make sure the threaded bushing doesn't come of
saubere Arbeit!
denke du sprichst deutsch (your dads gesäß xD)
bin seit 20 jahren Dreher. wenn ich dir nen tipp geben darf, würde ich dir empfehlen dir als alternative zu den Rollen noch einen Satz Stößel mit HOLZSPITZEN zu machen. Ja HOLZ!!! einfaches, stinknormales weiches HOLZ.
Rollen machen eigentlich nur bei sehr großen Werkstückgewichten Sinn.
Der große Nachteil von Rollen ist, dass sich Späne zwischen Rolle und Werkstück klemmen können und dir die Oberfläche zerstören können.
der große Vorteil von Holz ist, dass du es in Öl tränken kannst und es sich laufend von innen heraus selbst schmiert, kaum verschleiß, glaubt man kaum, is aber so!
Ansonsten weiter so :)
Nice work, well done.
I think that for DIY, it is a quality and very usable tool.
Thank you 👍🏼
for the hobby purpose it's definitely suitable
Why so unagressive? I had a similar WW II era South Bend lathe and it would take .060" DOC at 0 008" feed per rev in mild steel with no trouble at all given a modestly rigid set-up. I suggest you push the envelope next job you have major stock to remove. The worst that could happen is you stall the machine an maybe break an insert. The best that could happen is you get more productive and learn just what your machine can do in a particulay situation. Don't over-do it. Push it in modest increments. If you have stock and the set up allows increse feed or depth of cut by 20% and so on until the machine starts to stall, then back off a notch.
If you're making ribbon chips or bird's nests, chances are your tool geometry is unsuited to your feed and speed. Naturally there are some materials that are more difficult when it comes to controlling chips (copper for example, 300 series stainless, iron pipe) but chip control in plain vanilla steels, alloy steel, brass, bronze, most aluminum alloys poses few difficulties.
With the exception of those welds you did impressive work. Don't you have a buddy that is skilled in that dept? I also don't think your title is 100% accurate ...but it's close!;-)
Dang dude, I see that you’re wearing a heavy coat for permafrost freeze 🥶 your butt off location. Nonetheless, I really enjoyed your video. Working in those freezing conditions just means that you are a badass in my book.
Nice rest you did, it looks great. Not everybody in this world is born with expertise in weldering, but you do a working job, you just can try it more times, and learn a bit more. Congratulations, it takes my like.
I have enjoyed watching this to a point. I can’t get by the errors that I see. I have been in this business
Since 1955 and have owned a shop since1971. This type of machining puts real shops in a bad situation.
To start off, wearing loose gloves is very dangerous. It wouldn’t take much to see a finger ripped off. I was
Distressed to see him drill a hole in a drill press while holding the part with his fingers. I know that this is
show and tell, but to constantly show a operator cutting in .010 or .015 cuts sets up a new employee to be
terrified when he steps into a real shop. It is not unusual to see .200 or more deep cuts per side. Unless
You are stuck with old fashion carbon drills, no pro would use 4 drills to drill a 1/2 inch hole. In my shop
we often drill 4 inch holes directly into solid. These videos are fun, but they should keep in mind OSHA and
a little more realistic shop conditions. Otherwise newbies quit within the first hour.
Классный люнет. Даже не беря во внимание кач-во сварки (не у всех получается красиво варить). Главное - результат!
شغلك ايخبل بس اللحيم مالك فيطي حاول اتحسن اللحيم او تستخدم ماكنة لحام ميك
Why not just cut the centre out? there are plenty of ways to do that including trepanning!
Thanks for sharing this video, nice job on your project. Thinking I might try and make one soon for my lathe, nice to see the process.
Yep way better then those China ones any day thanks nice vid no music straight to the point
Thank you for that compliment :)
I would make a cutter and cut through the workpiece on both sides. And the chips would be smaller and we would get another blank for other purposes.
Spend a bit of time and learn to sharpen drill bits... Otherwise great video. You can still do good work with old machines.
Amigo! DAnger!!! cuando usas la contrapunta la debes fijar con sus 2 frenos!! eres un peligro! igual te adoro! gracias! y una cosa mas: por favor trata a tu calibre mitutoyo con un poco mas de cariño, me hace sufrir! gracias! :)
My best friend, Excellent video! Keep it up! I had to see the full video, as always, Keep it up! +thumb up3!
Thank you
Impressive and outstanding work of art, very nice indeed.
Nice work, you must have a lot of patience.
You do some lovely work, and the lathe is a beauty aswell! I am most glad someone like you picked her up instead of her ending up in the trash eventually, scrapped and turned into shit... At least given its price that is what i think the previous owner intended with it sooner or later... I rescued a few machines myself from the shredder... One 70+ year old lathe among them... They are if treated well and given some time a 100x better than any modern nonsense you can buy for ridiculous prices... Even if you have to send them to have them reground, or if you have time and some equipment, hand scrape them to micron accuracy... A gorgeous machine and well done is all i can say! Keep her well in care, and make some way covers to prevent wanton chaos and damage from chips getting crushed under the sliding components...
Thank you for this lovely comment. I recently picked up another lathe wich is made from the 1919 Magdeburg and has alot of modern features like a gearbox, v-ways, lead screw, feed screw and such.
Currently i am in the last steps of finishing the restoration
@@yak-machining Aah, well, how could i not post a nice comment at such nicely machined components and a good work on beautiful machinery... I do love machines, so any lovable machine catches my eye and their well-being makes me very happy, as i cant own every machine that would fall into disuse and ruin without a loving owner... Nice work done on them and with them pleases me just as much :p
Looking forward to seeing the ``new`` lathe in action or in the process of restoration! You should post more videos, you do nice work and it should be captured and shown, it can serve as either inspiration or at least a online guide for some who would do the same, but have never had a machine before, or havent had one like yours... I was hoping i would find something on Schaerer UN450 lathes, as that is my behemoth in resto, but nothing is to be found, except a 70 dollar manual which lacks the lubrication and equivalency chart by industries manuals... Cunts never replied to me regarding that... 70 fucking dollars for that manual and it lacks among the most critical of pages to be had in a manual...
All the best and warmest regards!
@@camillosteuss wow your lathe is definitely much better than my "new" one hahah. And yes, its also hard for me to find any usable info for my lathe but considering that my first one was made in the late 1800s and my "new" one in 1919, i don't expect to find anything.
Regarding to the video uploads i can tell you that I just don't have any motivation and time to make videos or invest in any projects (except my lathe restoration), since the situation in europe is getting worse snd everything is so fu...ing expensive.
Kind regards to you :)
@@yak-machining Haha, yeah, the Schaerer is a beast... Its an older variant of relatively available UD450, but better imho, a bit slower max rpm, but the systems appear more passionately made...
Yeah, that is the problem with buying olden machinery, not all, not many, but some are practically incognito by now and no info is left about them...
I get you regarding videos, i really do, as i wanted to post a few things of my own, but i literally dont ever feel like bothering with setting up any sort of camera, and i dont know whether i would show my face or no, as the point is the machines, not me, but oh, as i didnt film anything by now, i guess its not something i will bother with for now... If i decide to film in the future, we shall see...
Regarding the ridiculous cost all has come to, visit scrapyards... You will find amazing metal there for pennies, and with a running lathe/mill, you can make a lot of your own stuff that would otherwise rip you off in hundreds or thousands of dollars... I am sickened by prices of almost anything, except for the endmills and inserts from china, as those are relatively cheap, decent and allow me to make parts that i could but would never buy on account of what i perceive as offensively and rudely priced... I picked up about a ton, literally, of steel, and i mean good stuff, offcuts of good grade steel and tool steel and some bronze or brass on scrapyards in the last 7 months, for less than a 1000 euros, from which i made my own indicator holders, mill and lathe hardware, a 140mm 4jaw chuck, a winch&hydraulic crane and so on... I dont know about the situation in europe, as i dont watch news nor bother with malarkey... I live in europe, but i dont give a care about nonsense and sensationalist hysteria of the media... I see prices rise and people wear masks, and so do i when i have to, but to be bothered by shit is below me, i have machines to care about and love to give to metal and my works & garden... I wont spare any time from that to heed what does not affect me in any way whatsoever...
Please do a video ..... How to make diehead chasers
Thats a interesting idea since i can't thread on my lathe it would be super helpful
good job.!! Perhabs your welding-experience can be increased. Daddy learned welding at "Deutsche Bundesbahn". And that was good for "heavy metall"😇
Great job! Congratulations! You really did a first class work! Greetings from Argentina!
Loose the gloves or loose a finger! Better to have a couple stitches in your thumb then to not have a thumb to get stitches in.
I know the risk because i know my machines power, it has 1,5 kw only.
But for the next time i wont use gloves when i work on the lathe. Thank you for the advice
@@yak-machining ONLY 1.5KW ?????. --- A friend of mine got his index finger broken in 2 places and dislocated the knuckle by a 1/4 HP drill hobby drill press,,,,,,That's 186 watts. Your lathe motor is 8 times as powerful. Under the wrong circumstances it has way more power then it would take to pull you arm right out of the socket. Picture yourself with your arms tied to 2 horses pulling you apart in opposite directions. That's what you are up against with that measly 2 HP motor BEFORE Gearing and not adding in the inertia you will be pulled in with.
Try this. Stick the lathe in it's lowest direct speed and put a broom stick across the 3 jaw and tighten it into place. Now back it off as far as it will go and then turn it on. ,,,,,Now think what that measly 1500 watts can do to your tibia. Like Rudyard Kipling said about machines,
But remember, please, the Law by which we live,
We are not built to comprehend a lie,
We can neither love nor pity nor forgive.
If you make a slip in handling us you die!
We are greater than the Peoples or the Kings-
Be humble, as you crawl beneath our rods!-
Our touch can alter all created things,
We are everything on earth-except for God!
Be careful and keep up the vids......(I have to make a SR for our Clausing, I picked up a couple ideas from you)
Later Bro.
This steady rest is probably the stiffest part of the lathe. ;-)
🤣 you are probably right
Please don't hold jobs by hand when drilling especially while wearing gloves .
You have a drill vice, please use it!!!!!!
Are you doing it? Grab a camera and shoot your own video. These guys have obviously been doing this long enough to know safety procedures.
Agreed. I need more practice on my lathe before I start making more videos.
Great video. Nice work. Looks great and works good. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you
14:15 *NEVER* run a reamer backwards.
Extraordinary! Great work ! We need more videos!
It so amazing your lathe and your tools cut 😍😍
Hey nice to see you here :) i like your videos
If I ask a drug addict before his next fix to weld, it would be better than yours 🤣, just a nightmare. But, your machining skills and determination are the ones that count. Welding takes time to learn and also many tips here and there. I love your steady rest.
I still can't weld 🤣🤣🤣 but thank you
@@yak-machining When you said that you were going to use like Bondo to cover the bad welds I was like, don't worry bud, RUclips is full of them. But damn, after the Bondo cover I was like: he was pretty serious about this 😱🤣. -- Try watching some videos on how to make thick lines, you'll love it. And will help you learn about warping when putting too much heat, penetration, prep the materials, etc.
Just wanna say that lathe and milling is an art
Enjoyed watching you machine your project. If I may, please look into the tail-stock alignment. I believe the tailstock is sitting low. This condition can be corrected by shimming. I believe Mr. Pete has a video on how this is done.
Thank you, the lathe has since been sold but will check it on my "new" lathe
i noticed that also
42:00 du hast Axialnadellager verbaut, Kraftaufnahme gesichert, setze drei Rändelrollen ein und du musst nicht mehr feilen😊
Deine Kommentare sind die besten😂 alles längst Geschichte da ich das Hobby und die ganzen Sachen aufgegeben habe
Hi Yak when you use your lathe you should use dial caliper to adjust the metal that you turning I'm seeing your chuck running out of cue you may have bearing problems in the chuck housing . The procedure is thus place metal in chuck loosely using the dial caliper gauge mounted on a magnet set dial to zero turn the chuck by hand and if off zero adjust a few times when satisfied turn the chuck and the tip of the dial gauge it should read zero over 360 degree turn .
Yeah i already have a dial indicator. The main problem are these old Bronze bearings, they are very worn out and not precise anymore.
So did i a upgrade and built completly a new spindle out of scratch with angular contact ball bearings and roller bearings.
Its very very rigid now and the important thing is , that it is more precise than the old spindle.
A great build for a young man new to machining I do have a question, why was the thrust bearing placed on the outside next to the thumbscrews when the force is exerted against the inside of the cap with the four screws?
As to welding… I’m terrible too but it’s due to a visual impairment, the only way you will get better is by practicing all you can. Look up a channel called “Welding Tips and Tricks” he has a whole series of videos on how to improve your skills with a Mig, a Stick welder or with TIG welding. All three series are excellent for you to watch. Keep up the great vids.
Thank you very much, I kinda screwed up with the thrust bearing, my plan was to use on both sides but there was no more room for it.
@@yak-machining flip the cap and you’re done.
@@azarellediaz4892 well, now the owner has this problem 🤣
l also make things for my 100 year old lathe using only the lathe. Nice steady rest Looks great!!!. I made a milling attachment for mine that mounts a three inch vise.
Nice work. I am going to be making one in a few months. This was very helpful.
Danke dir
Не понял он в куртке, а на улице трава зелёная. Он что лицо прятал, тогда перчатки тёплые зачем?
👍
When you saying 100 years old then you mean ,only the base?:)Nice work anyway,could watch whole day..
Yes, the spindle is completely homemade
For learning how to weld I recommend learning in person from somebody instead of a video so then the person can give you feedback. Welding is mostly just practice once you get a good pattern down. Half moon weave back and forth slowly moving forward. From your welds it looks like you need higher wire speed, and a little more heat can't hurt. Just be careful when welding machines prices so they don't warp. Possibly think of investing in a weld clamping table to minimize warp on machined parts?
Yeah its something i have to learn.
My dad is a very good welder but didnt had time to learn from him, maybe someday.
I think i should try stick welding first, because in this Video i used a mig welding machine
@@yak-machining Stick is a easier to learn, which is good for beginners. However, while it is much stronger than mig because of how hot it can get (and therefore more penetration), it also causes much greater warp in parts. Still, it is much cheaper than mig to run!
Speed for the big sized drill is to high. Chattering comes from low steady support
Thank you
Really Great Build!!!
Very good job. I also made similar but a moving lathe steady for tool rest 30 years ago. So you can e.g. cut pieces very quickly without stopping the chuck.
Thank you. This sounds very interesting, maybe someday i will make a similar one
You have earned yourself a subscriber,im making a steady soon too,and i needed ideas,this is the best concept i have seen so far,but i will make mine in a different way, because i would like to make it so you can open the top,for better repeatebility. Greetings from Hungary!
I hope yours turn out even better haha.
The function where you can open it , was not a option for me because i forget about it and then it was already too late 😂
But i hope you make a video too
@@yak-machining i think i will make a video too,if i can.
Good job man, i see you are new on youtube, good luck! Awesome first video!!
Thank you, yeah im new and a new video is on work
@@yak-machining keep at it, i will subscribe then, and you are ambitioning me to start my own channel
Nice video, like it, thanks for sharing :)
Esta muy bueno el video solo que yo habría comprado el material perforado de una vez se habría ahorrado tiempo de maquinado
gracias, lamentablemente no he encontrado ningún material adecuado
Your machining skills are pretty good. But your welding skills...well.. not so much. It looks like you are NOT using shielding gas when you weld. Flux core is okay, but if you really want better looking and quality welds, get regular welding wire and add in the shielding gas. And your welds will certainly improve. Use a MIG setup... JMHO
Yes the welding was realy bad haha, the problem is that i already spend too much money on my Hobby. Maybe someday i will get a proper welding machine with gas
use a stick welder.
Wow.. Amazing job bro. Keep going forward mate. I like your style and I cant wait to see your next project 🍻
Thank you very much
What model and made is the lathe since it’s a 100 year old?. It’s beautiful
There arent any information on the lathe itself, only a small plate with the numbers for threading and such. But it says made in Hamburg
My lathe is as old as yours so yes I agree
Неплохой старт для новичка. Люнет получился отличный.
Very nice design sir. are the plans available please as would like to have a go at making this.
Sorry mister i dont have plans but a 3D design
@@yak-machining if you are willing to share what format are they in please?
34:10 before assembly, it was necessary to practice welding)
and in general, it's good
Thank you.
Yeah , im still bad at welding 🤣
subbed, very nice lathe! love how you and your dad are together doing your own thing. The same thing happens over here + a lot of trashtalk :).
CUCINE STOSA VIDEO
STOSA CUCINE video
IS VERY GOOD JOB. I HAV ONE LATH IDENTIC.. WHEN PUEDO HACER PARA FABRICAR ROSCAS NO TIENE TORNILLO PARA ROSCAS ..
el mío tampoco tiene función de hilo
Wouldn’t you have been better off drilling and tapping the support tubes before welding the on the ring?
Because of heat distortion
Good job ;) what ist this angle Gauge pls?
you did a nice job there my friend, i'd rather have something that works than is pretty that doesn't......was it me or did your lathe appear to run slowly ? i wondered if a higher speed may have helped on some of the turning but it might have been the way it looked on camera
A excepción de la soldadura ! Buen trabajo
Yo lo hubiese hecho con rosca y no soldado lo demás está bien
Verry nice. Just one tip, in stead of turning the whole center into chips, I would have spent some time to grind a tool that will cut out the center (trepanning) It would have saved you some time and you would have had some usefull steel left as a bonus.
What kind of welding did you use to complete the project MIG or Stick?