I'll try to translate .... Everything is fine, but welding the handle is like a fly in the ointment in a barrel of honey. By simple welding, I ruined everything.
Резцадержатель отличный , но резьба на болтах и сварка рукояти брак . Ведь можно было рукоятку изготовить на резьбе или запрессовать и на штифт посадить .
Заводская резцедержка (с термичкой,шлифовкой,годовой гарантией) стоит чуть дороже 100 американских рублей. Думается сам по себе процесс,как таковой,стоит во главе угла. Или человеку делать нечего.
thank you for an enjoyable video! I may do this, but I will cut off the 4 sides at the beginning with a band saw. Think of it: right there you would have the rocker piece for a lantern style tool post (actually, several of them)
This is a classic example of what you can accomplish when you ask "how CAN I do this?" instead of saying "I can't." So well done. Forget the weld and be proud of a good tool. Good video production too.
The lathe is such a universal tool, its just an amazing invention. But yeah i admit, most of the time i have to ask myself "how can i do it using only a lathe? " haha
I'm not going to criticize you on the welding job with the handle, very little is made in a day. I will say, for a 100 year + lathe, that's pretty good work. Functionality over looks will usually win every time. Cheers :)
How long did it really take you to turn round into square? Could have saved time and wear and tear, on your machine and inserts. .03 is a small cut, it must have taken you a day and a half to make a round blank square. Feeds and speeds, also material selection save time and money. I know this is a shop project, it just seems to me to be alot of wasted time. Time is money atleast in the 🇺🇲!
There is no way this project was made in a day (unless your talking 24 hours). And I would bet it was closer to 40. It's crazy to think someone with baby cuts could make this in a day. It is a great part high quality. But to think this was made in a day is ridiculous. Mabe if he started with the right material to begin with. I'm not knocking the part, I'm just not satisfied with the process.
@@albertpierce6263 i can't exactly tell how long it took but this was the only option for me at that time, because i dont have the Equipment to cut that efficiently. By the way who told you that it was made in one day lol, it took me weekends after weekends since i have a day time job
You need to look at your tool cutting height. Those blue 60 degree cutters are not on the same plane. You seem to be high on tool location. It's always better to be slightly lower than above center. Also invest in a good drill sharpener, or atleast a machinist drill guage.
Milling machine, we don’t need no stinking milling machine,Lol! Nice tool post and great example of using a lathe for what would normally be done on a milling machine.
I am very grateful for you using the lathe for most of the operations. Squaring the round stock, excellent. May people would use a saw or mill. Thank you for sharing your video.
Would have been sensible to use a saw (if available) to get most of the waste off, before making the stock accurately square in the lathe. Getting that amount of waste off using a lathe, in an interrupted cut, is not a nice operation.
Excelente video, una duda que tengo, este plato o Chuck es universal de 4 mordazas? Y si lo es como conseguir uno de esto. Primera vez que miro uno si lo es. Gracias por compartir sus conocimintos
When i first saw this i thought oh no point watching as i dont have a mill .then i saw you using a lathe , it was amazing up untill you used a mill on your lathe. I am just starting out. I have a 1957 Hurcus lathe but Unfortionatly no drill chuck and obviously no mill vise. So Unfortionatly stopped at that point. The first part was amazing. I jever knew you could do that. I am only very new hence the old lathe and very broke hence the old lathe. I am currently learning how to sharpen HSS as i cannot afford all the carbide holders and bits for each size or type. But thankyou for atleast teaching me something. It was amazing in itself. Regards Andy
Inserts from milling do not have any problems with interrupted cutting - as a matter of principle, every revolution occurs. And the lathe will hardly notice it ;)
Hi . Thank you for the help . Yes i know Birchwood casey ,i have a bottle but i'd like to try another brand if it better or not because with birchwood i have to deep the bolts twice or third to have a good results ,so, it sound like your Balistol is better ? I will verify if your product is sold in the Canada and if not or no retailers here in Canada , my story finish here and i will continued with Birchwood gun blue liquid . Thank's very much for the help .
Danke dir :) Ich hab eine Axial Kugellager verbaut damit es einfacher wird den hebel/griff zu lösen nachdem man es Fest-gezogen hat. Habe den trick von "fireball tool" gelernt wo er eine axialkugellager in seinen Schraubstock verbaut
Beautiful!! That is such awesome work. I have to make one of these for my old lathe but I am going to cast it out of aluminum until I can put together everything I need to perform these machinations. That is literally a piece of art that you made.
Gret vid.....in need of a new tool post for my Colchester Mascot. Wondering why you didn't thread the handle, as you had made everything else so well....
Thank you. If you mean a motor driven hacksaw, then i dont have one. A manual hacksaw would have taken too much time and elbow life :) And a angle grinder would make quick job but too noisy and dirty
@@yak-machining Not sure what angle gender you have that's dirty?, but you can direct grinding debris and dust very easily. It's as easy as all the chips in your lathe. As for noise, they aren't that noisy, and certainly for a fraction of the time of running a round disc into a square on your noisy and squeaky lathe!! It wld have been SO much quicker and easier!
Hey mate love what you have done I have 2 questions 1 why not rough the bulk with a band saw and where can I buy a self centring 4 jaw church keep up the good work
From the very first frames of processing, I realized that you are a tough dude... I would be afraid to process such a detail at such a distance in such a small lathe chuck. Dude, you don't even have steel, but titanium balls 😳👍
This reminds me of an old comic strip I saw. Man has a lathe and milling machine in his basement. His friend stops by and asks, "what do you make with your lathe & mill?". The first man says, parts for my lathe and mill.
Местами неплохо. Но : метчик заправлен был криво , под углом. Из за этого болты резцы зажимать будут хуже. Торцуют пруток как можно ближе к кулачкам или будет дробить , следственно может согнуть прут или торец будет неровный. Вылет у прутка очень большой , следственно может согнуть ,сломать и повредить кулачки или руки токаря. Плюс пойдет дробление , рябь и пруток будет элэпсовидным. Что бы избежать этого: деталь всегда прижимают центром , с центровкой или без нее , если сьем небольшой.
Nice job!....... But for the welding, why didn't you just thread and locktight it in place? Or if you are against adhesives you could have sweated it in. I agree that thrust bearing is just going to cause you headaches.
Блин, мужик! Давай я научу тебя искать нормально центр этой детали? 3 пары измерений. Ноги циркули (в твоём случае губки штангенциркуля) раздвигаешь больше чем радиус детали, можешь на треть,можешь по другому - тут уж как тебе будет наглядное. И с одной точко прочерчиваешь именно полукруг. Потом, примерно напротив этой изначальной точки, из точки на противоположной стороне детали опять таки прочерчиваешь полукруг. У тебя должны получиться две окружности, пересекающиеся в двух точках. Вот через эти точки пересечения ты проводишь прямую. После этого повторяешь все вышеперечислееное ещё в двух местах. Таким образом получишь 3 прямых, пересекающиеся друг с другом (лучше точки по строений расположить примерно под углом 120° друг относительно друга). И вот от места пересечения этих прямых уже ищешь центр детали. Твой вариант тоже хорош, но ты все равно центр опредкляешь чисто визуально.
По ходу с устройством зоводской резце держки он не знаком. Нет фиксируещего шара, при откручевании она не за что не провернеться. Даже закрыв глаза на резьбы и сварочные швы. Можно былобы хоть теоретически подготовиться. Но хорошо что , еще хоть кто-то еще пропогондирует ручной труд.
Hello thank you and very good question. I saw a "fireball tool" video where he puts a thrustbearing in his vise to make it easier to release the handle. Well i thought it would benefit if i put a thrustbearing on it to make it easy for clamping and such.. i hope it is understandable
@@yak-machining - One, a vise handle will have to spin several rotations and a bearing will help reduce friction load to some extent. Two, in this case, if you really had to use a bearing, it should have been on the lower end where the tool post mates with the cross slide, rather than the handle on top, for it to be of some use. In both ends, the handle and the tool post, are never going to make even one complete turn, in day to day use, so the bearing is actually redundant in its purpose. That apart, some interesting techniques to make flat and square jobs on a lathe. A rotating tool or workpiece with a corresponding axial or radial movement in a straight line can machine metal.
@@nooneyouknowhere6148 Both, the clamping force on the tool holder and easier to release has nothing to do with the bearing, it has to do with the thread pitch and diameter of the screw and nut.
I'm sorry but why did you machine the cylinder without cutting off the excess from that cylinder to make a square ? Isn't that a waste of material? Unless you recycle the chips?
It is used to make it easier to release the pressure from the handle/nut so you dont have to use all of your force Fireball tools also put a thrust bearing in their vises
@@yak-machining I can see how it will work in vise, but tool post not a vise. thrust bearing not working in your case at all. It is just not needed part.
@@strelokw So the friction holding this toolpost from sliding is between the toolpost and the compound. This often is a bit oily on a lathe making high clamping pressure vital to keep it from moving. A nut in even a lubricated state has a coefficient of friction of approx 0.15-0.2 mu. A roller bearing is typically around 0.01-0.002 range. So you're getting 10x+ less friction meaning that the handle will tighten the bolt more easily with less torque. Less friction=more preload=more effort to make the toolpost spin.
Śruby mocujące noże tokarskie nie smaruje się smarem , bo zatykają się opiłkami z toczenia - jeśli nie chcesz żeby śruby nie rdzewiały to robi się je ze stali chromowej lub chromowanadu
Watching this. And I do have one legit question. If you're starting out with round stuck but have to make it square, why didn't you start out with square stock to begin with? And if that wasn't an option, why not try and cut it into shape using something like a saw or angle grinder before getting it to its exact dimensions with the lathe? It sounds like it would be a lot less hassle, and you'd have spare materials left for any other sort of small project, no? Anyway, loving the video so far. Just something that I started to seriously wonder. As a metalworker and welder myself, it seemed a bit like unnecessary waste.
Well i looked excessively after a square stock but it couldn't find one that was perfect, either too big or just too expensive. And this round stock was extremly cheap, so i took it. And at that time i only had a angle grinder as an option, but i hate to work with them because their are noisy and dirty so i decided to take the long option haha
excellent skill, but why can't you cut the metal to bring from round to square shape. you are wasting the metal by using lath. pls help me to update my knowledge if there is a reason for that.
Don't know what steel you used, but you might want to harden it to keep your hold down bolt threads from eventually stripping out. If it's carbon steel, heat it cherry red for an hour ( 1600 F) , toss in water, and temper in oven at 600 F for a few hours If it's alloy steel, same thing, just use a vegetable oil quench instead of water, same temper temp, not critical. The center bolt looks like alloy steel, harden and temper will make the threads last a lot longer. Nice work.
If you mean the 12 blackened bolts, then it is 4140 steel. For the center bolt im not actually sure what kind of material this is but it doesn't rust, its magnetic and you can't bluing it. Its quiet soft also but way tougher than mild steel. And i dont have all the equipment to harden steel although i would love to harden the bolts so the tip doesn't deform
@@yak-machining All you really need is a propane torch, a magnet, and a few bricks, and some vegetable oil to do a reasonable harden on the tool post and main draw screw. Do a test harden with the tool post and draw screw scrap, they look like alloy steel (oil quench). 1) heat a piece of the scrap to dull red (until a magnet won't stick to it any more)... this is the critical temperature around 1300 F. 2) bring it up to bright red (~ 1600F) and hold that temp for 10 minutes or so. ( just arrange a few bricks to make a small box and direct the torch in the opening). Above 1300 F, perlite (soft annealed state) is converting to austenite (fine grain). 3) After 10 min at ~1600, quench in oil. ( this will convert the find grain Austenite into Martensite ( hard, but brittle, needs tempering). 4) After the quench, test the hardness with a file ( the file shouldn't bite ). 5) Temper at 500-600 F in your oven for an hour or so. ( use an oven thermometer ) If all good, repeat with your actual post and draw screw. For the 12 bolts: HEAT TREATING 4140 has a hardening range of 1525° -1625° F. Quench in oil. Temper ~ 600 F - 900F.... you need to experiment with some scrap to get the temper right. Good luck.
@@sparkyy0007 that sounds pretty doable. Another question, do i have to remachine the toolpost or center bolt after hardening, because of thermal expansion or so??
@@yak-machining There will be a small dimension change of around + - ( 0.0006) inches per inch. On those parts shouldn't be a problem. Just measure your scrap test pieces before and after hardening and tempering. You might also want to lap the bottom face of the tool post to ensure flatness after hardening.
Hi, I really liked what you did and the way you did it, I just have a suggestion or two, make yourself a short pointed shaft at 60° included angle to use in your drill press for small dia tapping, it's vitally important that the bolts in your toolpost are perpendicular to ensure repeatability when tool clamping. Die threading on your lathe, use the tailstock every time. Try brazing instead of welding (looks great) Try some thread turning too. But, honestly that was a great job, well done. and as others have said, practice practice practice.
Thanks for the advice, sadly i don't have the equipment for brazing and at that time my old lathe (from late 1800s ) couldn't do threading. However i got a newer lathe (from 1919 lol ) and i have to restore it so i can thread
Repeatability on tool clamping? The tool should rest firmly against the inner vertical edge of the tool post (otherwise you increase the risk of chattering or the tool shifting), the slight angle on the bolts help pressing the tool against it. The bolts alone shouldn't be the only thing supporting the tool I was thinking to myself when he made the threads "hmmm. those threads aren't exactly straight", but then thought that it actually serves a purpose.
@@HepauDK Having the tool rest against the vertical edge is handy because the tool is aligned, as for clamping by definition vertical bolts do not exert any force in the horizontal direction. Also I don't think it is necessary as the main cutting force is pointed in the downwards direction. If a true two-surface clamping was desired then I guess the bolts should be at 45 degrees which is difficult because there is little room, only set screws would fit, and also there would need to be a 45 degree flat surface on the tool. One of the problems I see with the design here is that the bottom surface is very thin. On my current 4-way post this is 15 mm and even this I consider not much, in fact the block is warped from the clamping force. Unfortunately the dimension cannot be increased because there is simply no room. The only way would be to lose the compound slide as some do but I can't do without it. I will first re-machine the block and finish the bottom surface with clamping bolts tightened with 'dummy tools' so it is corrected for distortion. Lastly, I see many 4-way posts which fit on an accurate cylinder as well as the bottom interface. These two can never be combined (the cylinder will never be perfectly perpendicular) so it is better to have the post spin on a cylinder of very small height (only a few mm's) so that clamping force will always join the bottom surface solidly. Hope this makes sense.
Very inspiring, your resourcefulness and your ability to adapt the lathe to do milling work is very impressive. I wondered why you didn't use the lathe to "chase" the threads used for the toolpost. Is the lathe not capable of threading? It definitely would have given you better fitting tool post bolts, if nothing else. Next time, (if you can't chase threads on the lathe) use a split die to cut the external threads. You can slightly adjust the split die a little bit to get a better fit. Great work!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Make sure to watch my last video where i build a lathe steady rest
Update: the lathe and all of its equipment are sold
I always wondered how often you got to sharpen your tip on that lathe
@@robbykwizz555
@@robbykwizz555
@@robbykwizz555 what do you mean with tip? The Carbide inserts?
I'll try to translate .... Everything is fine, but welding the handle is like a fly in the ointment in a barrel of honey. By simple welding, I ruined everything.
Резцадержатель отличный , но резьба на болтах и сварка рукояти брак . Ведь можно было рукоятку изготовить на резьбе или запрессовать и на штифт посадить .
если он на таком выносе вал точит с писком остальное уже понятно..........
@@МаркШтрульцель резьба это отдельная тема у всего видео. Эт капец
Заводская резцедержка (с термичкой,шлифовкой,годовой гарантией) стоит чуть дороже 100 американских рублей. Думается сам по себе процесс,как таковой,стоит во главе угла. Или человеку делать нечего.
Вопрос токарям:для чего или почему шляпки болтов на резцедержателе квадратные?
@@ВладимирПетряев-ю4ш Чтобы неповадно было их где-то использовать:)
As a new machinist this is impressive. Can't wait to get to your level
you chose a great line of job. i’m sure you’ll also become one of impressive machinist.
Buy a mill
You showed some really nice skills, but you should practice welding night and day 😉
I know ahha
He's a machinist not a welder😆👍
Ủa thợ máy là không biết hàng hả bạn
If my welding was not good and with his skllls I would’ve drilled and tapped that piece for the handle. Would’ve looked better.
@@khangtrankhangtran9430 thợ máy nào cũng phải biết hàn,nhưng hàn tốt hay k là 1 chuyện
thank you for an enjoyable video! I may do this, but I will cut off the 4 sides at the beginning with a band saw. Think of it: right there you would have the rocker piece for a lantern style tool post (actually, several of them)
This is a classic example of what you can accomplish when you ask "how CAN I do this?" instead of saying "I can't." So well done. Forget the weld and be proud of a good tool. Good video production too.
Look up vids of making cubes on a lathe. Nothing is impossible on a lathe.
The lathe is such a universal tool, its just an amazing invention. But yeah i admit, most of the time i have to ask myself "how can i do it using only a lathe? " haha
Love watching your stuff, dude! Amazing what people can do without a milling machine.
1:30 this fixture caused severe anxiety lol.
I'm not going to criticize you on the welding job with the handle, very little is made in a day. I will say, for a 100 year + lathe, that's pretty good work. Functionality over looks will usually win every time. Cheers :)
Thank you, yes i know the welding is bad but it its working very fine
How long did it really take you to turn round into square? Could have saved time and wear and tear, on your machine and inserts. .03 is a small cut, it must have taken you a day and a half to make a round blank square. Feeds and speeds, also material selection save time and money. I know this is a shop project, it just seems to me to be alot of wasted time. Time is money atleast in the 🇺🇲!
There is no way this project was made in a day (unless your talking 24 hours). And I would bet it was closer to 40. It's crazy to think someone with baby cuts could make this in a day. It is a great part high quality. But to think this was made in a day is ridiculous. Mabe if he started with the right material to begin with. I'm not knocking the part, I'm just not satisfied with the process.
@@albertpierce6263 i can't exactly tell how long it took but this was the only option for me at that time, because i dont have the Equipment to cut that efficiently. By the way who told you that it was made in one day lol, it took me weekends after weekends since i have a day time job
You need to look at your tool cutting height. Those blue 60 degree cutters are not on the same plane. You seem to be high on tool location. It's always better to be slightly lower than above center. Also invest in a good drill sharpener, or atleast a machinist drill guage.
I wish you had not welded the handle 😢. Would threadlock not have worked?
Because at the time I thought that a tap with that angle would be difficult and not strong for me so i decided to f..k it up hahah
I got a lot of knowledge from just 1 video, thank you
30:38 tienen mucha holgura esos tornillos...??.🤔👍
Yes it sadly does but it worked when i still had it
this take " interference cut " to a whole new level😆
Milling machine, we don’t need no stinking milling machine,Lol! Nice tool post and great example of using a lathe for what would normally be done on a milling machine.
I am very grateful for you using the lathe for most of the operations. Squaring the round stock, excellent. May people would use a saw or mill. Thank you for sharing your video.
Thank you, yeah it was difficuilt without a mill but not Impossible 😏
Would have been sensible to use a saw (if available) to get most of the waste off, before making the stock accurately square in the lathe.
Getting that amount of waste off using a lathe, in an interrupted cut, is not a nice operation.
Parabéns pelo seu conhecimento 🤝🏻 🤝🏻 🤝🏻
What brand of impact resistant inserts were you using? Most inserts will chip instantly during intermittent cuts.
Just cheap chinese Mitsubishi inserts from AliExpress
@@yak-machining It suprises me that ceramic inserts could deal with interrupted cuts so we'll.
at 3:27 how did you get from two parallel faces to a square?
Is the camera shaking from the workpiece or is the whole lathe moving? It looks like there's a lot of movemet in the cross slide?
It is because of the lathe, and i think there is also movement in the cross slide due to wear
The card was very good, I had a question, what is green liquid and what is its use
Green Liquid is called "cold blueing". It is used for black oxidation (the good oxidation) for preserving iron from red oxidation
Excelente video, una duda que tengo, este plato o Chuck es universal de 4 mordazas? Y si lo es como conseguir uno de esto. Primera vez que miro uno si lo es. Gracias por compartir sus conocimintos
My dear, with the exception of the welding of the knob, which was horrible, your project is perfect!!!
Very nice I have been thank about making one of those. Thanks great video 👍.
Друг, всё на высоте, но сварка ручки портит всю картину - переделай если можно?!
When i first saw this i thought oh no point watching as i dont have a mill .then i saw you using a lathe , it was amazing up untill you used a mill on your lathe. I am just starting out. I have a 1957 Hurcus lathe but Unfortionatly no drill chuck and obviously no mill vise. So Unfortionatly stopped at that point. The first part was amazing. I jever knew you could do that. I am only very new hence the old lathe and very broke hence the old lathe. I am currently learning how to sharpen HSS as i cannot afford all the carbide holders and bits for each size or type. But thankyou for atleast teaching me something. It was amazing in itself. Regards Andy
No problem and thank you
I think you did a good job, thanks for posting. Sometimes welding doesn't work out, but don't dispair!! Awesome and keep posting! Al from Canada...
Thank you for the comment.
Yes i know how horrible the welding was😂 but i have to learn alot
So many views and only two videos. This chanel could be one of the best
Thank you but I sold everything I own and basically gave up this hobby. Maybe in some years or not
@@yak-machining thats the last answer i was expecting. Sounds like you had troubles. I hope one day youll be back cuz you are a pro
@@Vigopl thanks, yeah it cost me so much money that even my family had to intervene 😂
i myself still using an old lathe machine, it is still awesome working with it. Nice video
Good job, but I've got a question, it's necessary Carry the piece to thermal treatment for the hardness? Before to work with this new piece
Im not realy sure if its necessary, but it would definitly benefit it (much less wear, especially the threaded holes)
Hello , is it (cold blueing ) the name of the stuff or the name of the brand ? Thank's again .
Its the name of the stuff
Great job . Question : What is the product name of the liquid you take to blackened your bolts ? Cheers and thank's in advance .
Cold blueing
Wait wtf at first i tought you chucked the log in a 3 jaws and then later i saw it was a 4 jaws but not independantly adjusted. Where did you got it?
What brand inserts are you using?My cheap inserts would definitely tear apart with those interrupted cuts
These are the Standard inserts from AliExpress, nothing special or expensive.
However the brand name is Mitsubishi but i doubt that they are original
@@yak-machining I'll give them a try, I broke 3 inserts last week on mild interrupted cuts
Inserts from milling do not have any problems with interrupted cutting - as a matter of principle, every revolution occurs.
And the lathe will hardly notice it ;)
Great work , please let me know the procedure and chemical you are used on the surface of bolts for making black.
Its called cold blueing and afterwards its treated with light oil for sealing the oxide surface
Hi . Thank you for the help . Yes i know Birchwood casey ,i have a bottle but i'd like to try another brand if it better or not because with birchwood i have to deep the bolts twice or third
to have a good results ,so, it sound like your Balistol is better ? I will verify if your product is sold in the Canada and if not or no retailers here in Canada , my story finish here and i will
continued with Birchwood gun blue liquid . Thank's very much for the help .
No problem, but you can answer direct here
Nice Video!
Can you tell me were the bearing at the end of the Video is used for?!
Danke dir :)
Ich hab eine Axial Kugellager verbaut damit es einfacher wird den hebel/griff zu lösen nachdem man es Fest-gezogen hat. Habe den trick von "fireball tool" gelernt wo er eine axialkugellager in seinen Schraubstock verbaut
Hello, nice job! Please, Could you tell me which maker pen do you use? It's amazing!!!
Hello and thank you.
Its called a blue layout pen, i got mine from germany
@@yak-machining ok, thank you!!!
Beautiful!! That is such awesome work. I have to make one of these for my old lathe but I am going to cast it out of aluminum until I can put together everything I need to perform these machinations. That is literally a piece of art that you made.
Hoping to own a lathe soon , can't quite believe what you can actually do with one .
Quase chorei com essa solda,mas o restante ficou muito bom! Parabéns.
e o parquímetro sendo usado para riscar
Excellent ideas. Nice skill.Only thing I can not understand why thurst bearing is provided there
Gret vid.....in need of a new tool post for my Colchester Mascot. Wondering why you didn't thread the handle, as you had made everything else so well....
Great job buddy but can I ask why you used a lathe to go from round to square when a hacksaw would have done the job?
Thank you. If you mean a motor driven hacksaw, then i dont have one.
A manual hacksaw would have taken too much time and elbow life :)
And a angle grinder would make quick job but too noisy and dirty
@@yak-machining
Not sure what angle gender you have that's dirty?, but you can direct grinding debris and dust very easily. It's as easy as all the chips in your lathe.
As for noise, they aren't that noisy, and certainly for a fraction of the time of running a round disc into a square on your noisy and squeaky lathe!! It wld have been SO much quicker and easier!
Complimenti una lavorazione a regola d’arte 👍👍👍👍
Hey mate love what you have done I have 2 questions 1 why not rough the bulk with a band saw and where can I buy a self centring 4 jaw church keep up the good work
Thank you. I dont own a band saw (yet)
And i dont know where you live but in my country i bought it at a online store
@@yak-machining If I'd have to guess, I'd say US
thanks ..
o mavi boya nedir mürekkep mi ?
Hi,
What are the reasons for the smoothness of the lathe? Does the faster the speed give you the smoothness?
Hi, yes for a smooth finish generally a high speed and a slow feed is necessary, plus the right cutting tool
Аккуратность, точность, все на высшем уровне!Отличная работа!👌👍
Кроме сварки отлично
@@АдланТилиев-з3м А самый большой косяк - сорванные ( порванные ) резьбы на зажимных болтаж .
Was that welded with a coat hanger and a soldering iron?
From the very first frames of processing, I realized that you are a tough dude... I would be afraid to process such a detail at such a distance in such a small lathe chuck. Dude, you don't even have steel, but titanium balls 😳👍
🤣 well i was scared too at the beginning
Me da algo que se muevan así las roscas, quedaron flojas o algo?
Good job bro.
@@blog-q2i Thank you
a lot of turning high-quality video 👍👍👌👌
Отличная работа, симпатично получилось. Ещё можно добавить шарик под резцедержку для фиксации.
All the effort and one of the most prominent parts (26:20) looks like you did it blind and under water :D
Great job. Liked seeing your creative ways to use lathe.
You did alright need to purchase some of threader and thread stuff on the lathe
Por fa podrias decirme que liquido usaste oara pavonar las piezas fabricadas
Great job! Congratulations!!!
Thank you for sharing... You gave some alternative ideas that I didn't thought... Good man!!! 👍👍👍👍
This reminds me of an old comic strip I saw. Man has a lathe and milling machine in his basement. His friend stops by and asks, "what do you make with your lathe & mill?". The first man says, parts for my lathe and mill.
🤣 thats fantastic but also true for me
Amazing work 👏 bro but one thing please let me know the purpose of thrust bearing
I think you made a jolly good job of this. I might be tempted to make something for my lathe now. It deserves a treat.
Excellent skill 👌👌👌👌♥️♥️♥️ love from India
Местами неплохо. Но : метчик заправлен был криво , под углом. Из за этого болты резцы зажимать будут хуже. Торцуют пруток как можно ближе к кулачкам или будет дробить , следственно может согнуть прут или торец будет неровный. Вылет у прутка очень большой , следственно может согнуть ,сломать и повредить кулачки или руки токаря. Плюс пойдет дробление , рябь и пруток будет элэпсовидным. Что бы избежать этого: деталь всегда прижимают центром , с центровкой или без нее , если сьем небольшой.
Nice job!....... But for the welding, why didn't you just thread and locktight it in place? Or if you are against adhesives you could have sweated it in. I agree that thrust bearing is just going to cause you headaches.
Well it was difficuilt to tap that in or machine a tapped hole so i decided to weld it
The HANDLE welding nearly destroys the perfect art.
Yap
А вот подшипник здесь не к чему
@@ПавелАндреев-щ5мyes it is.
Agreed.
how you make the screws black? which chemical?
Its called "cold blueing liquid" i think it contains selenium dioxide
Блин, мужик! Давай я научу тебя искать нормально центр этой детали? 3 пары измерений. Ноги циркули (в твоём случае губки штангенциркуля) раздвигаешь больше чем радиус детали, можешь на треть,можешь по другому - тут уж как тебе будет наглядное. И с одной точко прочерчиваешь именно полукруг. Потом, примерно напротив этой изначальной точки, из точки на противоположной стороне детали опять таки прочерчиваешь полукруг. У тебя должны получиться две окружности, пересекающиеся в двух точках. Вот через эти точки пересечения ты проводишь прямую. После этого повторяешь все вышеперечислееное ещё в двух местах. Таким образом получишь 3 прямых, пересекающиеся друг с другом (лучше точки по строений расположить примерно под углом 120° друг относительно друга). И вот от места пересечения этих прямых уже ищешь центр детали. Твой вариант тоже хорош, но ты все равно центр опредкляешь чисто визуально.
Not hating or anything, just curiouse. Why didnt you just mill it to size?
Because i dont have a millingmachine
Vote up, nice video clip, thanks for sharing :)
You did some good job but some job are so dirty such as welding why you didn't tap and tight the rod in the nut?
Wgat are those big bits if steel with flaired end you made that from
По ходу с устройством зоводской резце держки он не знаком. Нет фиксируещего шара, при откручевании она не за что не провернеться. Даже закрыв глаза на резьбы и сварочные швы. Можно былобы хоть теоретически подготовиться. Но хорошо что , еще хоть кто-то еще пропогондирует ручной труд.
Yah didja self proud there. I gotta do that maself now I know a little sumthin extra than I done before.
Using calipers as a center finder is pretty clever! Well done man, may that lathe last another century!!
Thank you 😁
As a wise man once said: lathing is all about making round things square, and square things round.
Beautiful workmanship with love from Turkey
AMAZING JOB! So love it!
But lemme ask one question. Why did you put a thrust bearing there? It counteracts the clamping force, doesn’t it?
Greg
Hello thank you and very good question.
I saw a "fireball tool" video where he puts a thrustbearing in his vise to make it easier to release the handle.
Well i thought it would benefit if i put a thrustbearing on it to make it easy for clamping and such.. i hope it is understandable
@@yak-machining - One, a vise handle will have to spin several rotations and a bearing will help reduce friction load to some extent. Two, in this case, if you really had to use a bearing, it should have been on the lower end where the tool post mates with the cross slide, rather than the handle on top, for it to be of some use. In both ends, the handle and the tool post, are never going to make even one complete turn, in day to day use, so the bearing is actually redundant in its purpose.
That apart, some interesting techniques to make flat and square jobs on a lathe. A rotating tool or workpiece with a corresponding axial or radial movement in a straight line can machine metal.
Probably gives you more clamping force on the tool holder with less effort and less binding on the nut. Also easier to release.
@@nooneyouknowhere6148 Both, the clamping force on the tool holder and easier to release has nothing to do with the bearing, it has to do with the thread pitch and diameter of the screw and nut.
@@yak-machining fair enough! Keep up the good work my friend!
Greg
Where you buy that 20mm end mill?
For such a finely detailed job, I think the soldering is horrendous.
Yes it is, i will learn hopefully
Haven’t seen any soldering 😎
Cracking job mate! Hats off!
@@OneManEngineering thank you ❤️
I'm sorry but why did you machine the cylinder without cutting off the excess from that cylinder to make a square ? Isn't that a waste of material? Unless you recycle the chips?
What purpose of thrust bearing in tool post??
It is used to make it easier to release the pressure from the handle/nut so you dont have to use all of your force
Fireball tools also put a thrust bearing in their vises
@@yak-machining I can see how it will work in vise, but tool post not a vise.
thrust bearing not working in your case at all.
It is just not needed part.
@@strelokw So the friction holding this toolpost from sliding is between the toolpost and the compound. This often is a bit oily on a lathe making high clamping pressure vital to keep it from moving. A nut in even a lubricated state has a coefficient of friction of approx 0.15-0.2 mu. A roller bearing is typically around 0.01-0.002 range. So you're getting 10x+ less friction meaning that the handle will tighten the bolt more easily with less torque. Less friction=more preload=more effort to make the toolpost spin.
Love watching lathe videos and this is the first time I’d seen a square made. Thanks
Very good tool post but handle pe welding very bad experience
Awesome work done
Śruby mocujące noże tokarskie nie smaruje się smarem , bo zatykają się opiłkami z toczenia - jeśli nie chcesz żeby śruby nie rdzewiały to robi się je ze stali chromowej lub chromowanadu
Potwierdzam w 100% jako zawodowiec
very very very good work I like its
Watching this. And I do have one legit question.
If you're starting out with round stuck but have to make it square, why didn't you start out with square stock to begin with? And if that wasn't an option, why not try and cut it into shape using something like a saw or angle grinder before getting it to its exact dimensions with the lathe? It sounds like it would be a lot less hassle, and you'd have spare materials left for any other sort of small project, no?
Anyway, loving the video so far. Just something that I started to seriously wonder. As a metalworker and welder myself, it seemed a bit like unnecessary waste.
Well i looked excessively after a square stock but it couldn't find one that was perfect, either too big or just too expensive.
And this round stock was extremly cheap, so i took it.
And at that time i only had a angle grinder as an option, but i hate to work with them because their are noisy and dirty so i decided to take the long option haha
Could you have used a bandsaw or chop saw to cut those first chunks off then refine with lathe?
excellent skill, but why can't you cut the metal to bring from round to square shape. you are wasting the metal by using lath.
pls help me to update my knowledge if there is a reason for that.
Your work is very special friend❤💯
Don't know what steel you used, but you might want to harden it to keep your hold down bolt threads from eventually stripping out.
If it's carbon steel, heat it cherry red for an hour ( 1600 F) , toss in water, and temper in oven at 600 F for a few hours
If it's alloy steel, same thing, just use a vegetable oil quench instead of water, same temper temp, not critical.
The center bolt looks like alloy steel, harden and temper will make the threads last a lot longer.
Nice work.
If you mean the 12 blackened bolts, then it is 4140 steel. For the center bolt im not actually sure what kind of material this is but it doesn't rust, its magnetic and you can't bluing it. Its quiet soft also but way tougher than mild steel.
And i dont have all the equipment to harden steel although i would love to harden the bolts so the tip doesn't deform
@@yak-machining
All you really need is a propane torch, a magnet, and a few bricks, and some vegetable oil to do a reasonable harden on the tool post and main draw screw.
Do a test harden with the tool post and draw screw scrap, they look like alloy steel (oil quench).
1) heat a piece of the scrap to dull red (until a magnet won't stick to it any more)... this is the critical temperature around 1300 F.
2) bring it up to bright red (~ 1600F) and hold that temp for 10 minutes or so. ( just arrange a few bricks to make a small box and direct the torch in the opening). Above 1300 F, perlite (soft annealed state) is converting to austenite (fine grain).
3) After 10 min at ~1600, quench in oil. ( this will convert the find grain Austenite into Martensite ( hard, but brittle, needs tempering).
4) After the quench, test the hardness with a file ( the file shouldn't bite ).
5) Temper at 500-600 F in your oven for an hour or so. ( use an oven thermometer )
If all good, repeat with your actual post and draw screw.
For the 12 bolts:
HEAT TREATING 4140 has a hardening range of 1525° -1625° F. Quench in oil.
Temper ~ 600 F - 900F.... you need to experiment with some scrap to get the temper right.
Good luck.
@@sparkyy0007 that sounds pretty doable. Another question, do i have to remachine the toolpost or center bolt after hardening, because of thermal expansion or so??
@@yak-machining
There will be a small dimension change of around + - ( 0.0006) inches per inch.
On those parts shouldn't be a problem.
Just measure your scrap test pieces before and after hardening and tempering.
You might also want to lap the bottom face of the tool post to ensure flatness after hardening.
@@sparkyy0007 thank you so much 👍🏼💯
Hi, I really liked what you did and the way you did it, I just have a suggestion or two, make yourself a short pointed shaft at 60° included angle to use in your drill press for small dia tapping, it's vitally important that the bolts in your toolpost are perpendicular to ensure repeatability when tool clamping.
Die threading on your lathe, use the tailstock every time.
Try brazing instead of welding (looks great)
Try some thread turning too.
But, honestly that was a great job, well done.
and as others have said, practice practice practice.
Thanks for the advice, sadly i don't have the equipment for brazing and at that time my old lathe (from late 1800s ) couldn't do threading. However i got a newer lathe (from 1919 lol ) and i have to restore it so i can thread
Repeatability on tool clamping? The tool should rest firmly against the inner vertical edge of the tool post (otherwise you increase the risk of chattering or the tool shifting), the slight angle on the bolts help pressing the tool against it. The bolts alone shouldn't be the only thing supporting the tool
I was thinking to myself when he made the threads "hmmm. those threads aren't exactly straight", but then thought that it actually serves a purpose.
@@HepauDK Having the tool rest against the vertical edge is handy because the tool is aligned, as for clamping by definition vertical bolts do not exert any force in the horizontal direction. Also I don't think it is necessary as the main cutting force is pointed in the downwards direction. If a true two-surface clamping was desired then I guess the bolts should be at 45 degrees which is difficult because there is little room, only set screws would fit, and also there would need to be a 45 degree flat surface on the tool.
One of the problems I see with the design here is that the bottom surface is very thin. On my current 4-way post this is 15 mm and even this I consider not much, in fact the block is warped from the clamping force. Unfortunately the dimension cannot be increased because there is simply no room. The only way would be to lose the compound slide as some do but I can't do without it. I will first re-machine the block and finish the bottom surface with clamping bolts tightened with 'dummy tools' so it is corrected for distortion. Lastly, I see many 4-way posts which fit on an accurate cylinder as well as the bottom interface. These two can never be combined (the cylinder will never be perfectly perpendicular) so it is better to have the post spin on a cylinder of very small height (only a few mm's) so that clamping force will always join the bottom surface solidly. Hope this makes sense.
Very ingenious how you use your lathe.
Spectacular job man! Super professional. Thanks
Thank you very much
Excelente My friend! You're teaching how yo use the lathe better. Congratulations
Very inspiring, your resourcefulness and your ability to adapt the lathe to do milling work is very impressive. I wondered why you didn't use the lathe to "chase" the threads used for the toolpost. Is the lathe not capable of threading? It definitely would have given you better fitting tool post bolts, if nothing else. Next time, (if you can't chase threads on the lathe) use a split die to cut the external threads. You can slightly adjust the split die a little bit to get a better fit. Great work!
Well alright, cool!
The non-independent 4-jaw chuck threw me for a loop for a sec
Looks great , well done , screw fit the handle it'll look better than weld