Please Keep overthinking and explaining in the simple detailed way that you do - this helps people like me who know very little. You come across really well on video Man, so keep it up. You've got great style..!
You are correct that the PCM is monitoring the current for the positive switched side. It also does this on the switched ground side. It does this through a small ohmic value resistor to read its voltage drop. This voltage is then fed to an A/D converter where its output is fed to the microprocessor. The program inside the processor has a lookup table that correlates the voltage drop to amperage. The program has an upper and lower tolerance of what the amperage should be. This way you not only test the wiring for shorts and opens, but also the actual load, i.e. solenoid for excessive or too little amps. Also when looking at the PWM signal, you won’t see an inductive spike as the current has a slow decaying waveform on turnoff. If you look at the current waveform, you’ll see that it looks more like a sawtooth waveform. Great video by the way! Keep up the good work!
Another excellent ALA diagnostic video. Overthinking and over explaining is a good thing for DIYers like me. Learning so much. Eric, you have a real gift in the ability to explaining electronics and car operations. Keep doing what you are doing!
To answer your two main questions, the sense circuit is on the high side control. The bias voltage is used to calculate the circuit resistance by looking at the voltage drop across the sense circuit's precise dropping resistor. The other question was the spec for the solenoid resistance, you were looking at it when you had the code troubleshooting document from GM. It's under "Component Testing " step 2. 8-13 ohms.
The old one was definitely a "variable resistance load." It was it's own stepper motor. You found it, you fixed it......Great Job! You'd make a great instructor!
I have a Buick Verano 2012 , and here in Belize we dont have dealer for it, hence this has helped me alot before taking ot to a regular car garage....keep up and excelellent video...
Excellent video for anyone wanting to understand the science on how these parts actually work and as a math person this how I like to learn things, thank you for doing this!
I followed this video and another to replace the intake VVT solenoid on my 2015 Buick Verano with 70k miles, and it worked! Before the warning light showed up, the car stalled from time to time and I suspected the battery was dying. I took the car to Walmart and they said the battery was indeed dead. Since the battery still had two out of five years of warranties left, they replaced it for only the difference between the prices now and then. After the battery replacement, I noticed that the battery voltage on the car still fluctuated a lot, from 14.8V down to 12.8V, and the car would stall at low speed, such as before traffic lights or in a traffic jam. Then the warning light also showed up. At first, I thought the car needs an oil change. It did. When I took it to Walmart to change the oil, they said it was almost empty. I chose synthetic oil, even though it's not required. Walmart is the only one that has not raised prices. At the dealer or JiffyLube, it's around $90 but at Walmart still $56. The day after the oil change, the code was gone but returned and stayed there the next day. I used an OBD II scanner and it read the code as P0010, with the message "A Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 1" and "A Camshaft Position Timing Over - Advanced or System Performance Bank 1". After watching these videos, I took the solenoid out and measured its resistance and it's about 130 ohms, while the other one (and the new one) is in the 20 ohms range. I bought a new solenoid for the intake side from Napa Autoparts for $45 (Made in Poland. The exhaust side one is a few dollars cheaper), which looks exactly the same as the one I took out. I put it in and disconnected and reconnected the battery too. And voila! The battery voltage is now stable at 14.8 - 15V, the warning light is gone, and the car no longer stalls. Only the steering wheel seems to be a little bit stiffer than before.
We just replaced the Solenoid on my 2014 Verano, mainly because of this video. You save me a LOT of money my friend. Best to you for the amazing content.
Hey FYI, there is a lot of diag code set info: go to NASTF web site, select OEM SERVICE WEBSITES, select CHEVROLET, scroll to bottom of page, select GM MODE 6 DATA & OBD-|| DIAGNOSTIC PARAMETERS. I have found some great info on this FREE resource. Really enjoy your troubleshooting.
Thank you Eric. Good job again. You're not over thinking, you're doing the right thing. Covering the bases and helping the new techs by teaching them. To answer your question about how does the ECM monitor a circuit issue from a power side switched. Either by measuring amperage flow at various duty cycle commands or by monitoring the cam sensor angle at at various duty cycle commands. I'm choosing the cam sensor angle because of the supporting P0011 Performance code. The ECM is programmed to know, at every duty cycle command of the vct oil control solenoid, the phaser/cam actuator angle should be at a specific position as seen by the cam sensor position. I wouldn't be surprised if the ECM monitored both amperage and cam position.
Excellent video! Well explained. As a rule of thumb I always doubt anything with a coil. I am retired but over the years I have found that anytime you are troubleshooting something with a coil look at the temperature around the device. If it is subject to high temperature it will affect the windings. Also if there are 2 in the same place I would suggest that you recommend to the customer to replace both.
thanks for your posted fix. just replaced my intake VVT on 2016 Verano sport touring non turbo; I allowed the engine light to reset (clear) on its on after approx 30-40 mile drive cycle (running errands)! gtg return to service lol. now to delve into the intermittent passenger airbag light--on when 'nothing' is in the seat. again thanks!
some will say you over explain what you are doing, they will be the people that already know diagnostics however, if you are new to diagnostics it is better to explain everything because that is how you learn every aspect about a circuit that you may be dealing with, great vid, it gets a like from me.
Thank you for this video. These codes and issues have been occurring on my vehicle. You've answered so many of the questions I've been asking. Subscribed.
Bravo...really nice job using your troubleshooting knowledge! You saved a customer a LOT of frustration and money! The sad part is that a lot of garages put the time/money factors in front of accurate and confirmed testing; which initially gives the appearance of expertice to the customer, and makes more initial revenue for the business, but in the end they didn't fix the problem and the customer will spend their next dime someplace else. When things are done right, you might add a little time, and have a lower revenue for that issue; howeve, you will have earned the trust and respect of the customer and will most likely have repeat business and new business from the customers recommendations.
Just replaced the intake cam solenoid actuator on my moms car. Had rough intermittent idle, hesitation under acceleration and poor fuel economy. Also 5with check engine light. Only thing I did differently from your video is I unplugged the negative side of the battery first before I worked on it. Once new part was installed I hooked everything back up and no more check engine light. Was on a 2014 verano premium with 2.0 turbo.
This is a great video. A lot more detail on diagnosis than a novice like me needed as I just wanted to replace the solenoid based on the p0011 code but this video gave me confidence that I could do it myself. The only thing lacking was how to remove the wire connector from the solenoid itself which took a while until I used a plyers to apply enough force to disengage the connector.
Well done, Eric. We always tell the customer to be sure there is at least a quarter tank of gas when we service their vehicle because if it runs out while road testing we charge shop labor rate for the tech and the person to deliver fuel.
I love your thought process. I want to be able to quick and effectively diagnose so I don’t just throw parts even if it’s probably that I like to verify. Watching your video seems like I could learn a lot from you.
Great video, I just want to give you my 2 cents. Beware of checking ground with the power probe because it has a hi impedance and will show a good ground and it could be bad. Always load test grounds and powers with some load. Also know that temperature has a big part when checking resistance, when you tested the new solenoid it was cold, at op temp it could change 3-5 ohms.
Good Video bro! Ya really know your stuff. We need more guys like you on Utube that actually know more than just turning a wrench. Ya helped me fix my problem! Much appreciated 👍
Thinks for sharing, it is very helpful method we need for GM and OPEL cars. For diagnos I use Bosch KTS 540 and we find diagrams and values for must electrical parts, put sometimes we need diagrams we not found inside data base KTS.
We saw same variable resistance on a VVT solenoid that threw a code on a similar 2.4l ecotec engine. We replaced both solenoids with OEM parts; those also read about 11ohms new.
I’d like to add this review thank you I recently want to take 5 Oil change place they try the bag that my car is fine with regular oil not the full Fetick Not sure it’s a type that didn’t write a good look out because my oil who’s getting low I didn’t realize and when I went to oil change, he found my cord to oil low. He found my transmission cap loose and something on my undercarriage cover for the engine was all zip tied together boy $260 for a tuneup might have to go to the mechanic and get those auto parts that you have in your vehicle Taken out and replace I say thank you to the great video
Likely to be an Infineon high-side driver. These parts have open load detection, and is usually accomplished by passing a very small current to ensure that there is continuity in the load circuit. The parts also have a couple different status outputs like a simple "on if ok" or a more esoteric current measurement channel that outputs a voltage to an ADC that is proportional to the current flowing in the load.
Good video. In description and operation don't explain. But in the troubleshooter for the same code is a note. Note: A test lamp must be used for this test. The control circuit is pulled-up to a low current voltage, 1.5-3.5 V on the control circuit is normal. That info is key but it doesn't apply to every system and car. Example Chrysler monitoring a field collapse to check for coil integrity.
Also the resistance check of the new one and the old one it's pretty similar around 10 ohms to 14 ohms which is really not identified by doing voltage tests
Another great video good way to diagnose these solenoid quick is a resistance reading I guess. Trouble is can't do this on some things like abs sensors the new ones go wrong using resistance. Why I'm so impressed you scope everything surprised that never showed the fault as well though
Thank you so much mine did not set check engine light so I tested it it wad reading 0.00 ohms witch is wired but I just replaced it problem solved thank you
Appreciate your video. Helped a ton and learned a lot and changed my own And not to mention saved me a ton of money. Subscribed and all that. Thanks again
I like your videos really good at explaining things easily in a methodical way .only thing I sometimes think and I've been caught out with power probe is there led lights and have been caught out as need a test light I personally think as well as power probe just to load circuit more only my opinion though
I would think that the live and ground are beside each other inside the ecu and the voltage sensing circuit goes from the live to ground but for the purpose of the digram they are shown as being seprat.
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO if you come across a 2.5l Toyota with similar codes and possibly a cam phaser issue please do a full diag and repair! I'll be very grateful
very helpful and i love the way that you over thinking cause of its help me to understand well thank you very very very much and keep going i will be wait for more
i'm did a 2017 verano with 2.4l engine. i read 2 volts on the ground side wire. revving the engine when it had been warmed up, there were glitches on the driver waveform. checking the ground wire resistance against pin 5 of the dlc through a breakout box showed intermittent resistance value
It seems like the resistance of any coil the DC resistance is always on low value like you said 10 ohms so when you disconnect the connector and reconnect the connector it goes back to low voltage because of the low resistance of the coil but you also see that 5 volts is a quiescent value that's because down the switch is closed inside the computer giving you 5 volts and the duty cycle is what changes
The code description said a time constraint. Camshaft position sensor monitors live the response of the commanded pwm. A lengthy delay sets the code. A crappy actuator would caused delayed feedback.
I'll guess that you are right, the bias voltage seen only when unplugged suggest a trickle of current is going across that little stepper motor even when not activated. Like a flashlight that kills batteries over a few weeks, the switch has a tenuous pathway through corrosion inside the device to ground. It would have been interesting to see if the same bias voltage is seen on the exhaust side. Dang those manufacturers for not providing adequate information.
I'm looking at a vehicle being sold with potentially this problem. Could any particular driving habit (like driving your car with low oil) cause these actuators to go bad and set off codes or are these really just limited to some type of common malfunction with these vehicles.. or maybe both? Thanks for the video. Your explanation helps understand how these components work
First thanks for the good content on your channel. I wonder if you looked at the coil with a current probe that would show the swings of the resistance in the circuit. I have not tried it but it is on the list now.
I suspect the high failure rate of those solenoids is because of the position they are in on the engine. The area is hot with little air flow. I's a terrible position for anything electrical.
What do u think it could be ive replace everything ocv, syncronizer, chain tensioner, test solenoid wiring all goods signal from ecm is good but every time exhaust vvt is connected card shuts off, do u think it could be an ecm problem maybe because it is beind commanded when it shouldnt
What if changing the solinoid doesn't fix this problem?. Girlfriends car has the shudder but no codes. She replaced the solinoid as well. One new one and one used one. I was thinking an oil galley might be plugged?
Eric, excellent video and thank you for going over the circuit design. Your videos to me are extremely helpful for the way that you explain the circuit and then show the test procedure. Trying hard to learn system operations by reading the schematic. Looking into purchasing a couple of ATG training and system manuals. They are giving me a good deal and wonder if you have any input. If I buy two the third is free. Any thoughts appreciated. 👍👍👍
Acts like a coil when energized it soaks the voltage to operate so it drops and voltage goes down amps go high. Being a square wave just like a can signals.
Please Keep overthinking and explaining in the simple detailed way that you do - this helps people like me who know very little. You come across really well on video Man, so keep it up. You've got great style..!
Thank you
You are correct that the PCM is monitoring the current for the positive switched side. It also does this on the switched ground side. It does this through a small ohmic value resistor to read its voltage drop. This voltage is then fed to an A/D converter where its output is fed to the microprocessor. The program inside the processor has a lookup table that correlates the voltage drop to amperage. The program has an upper and lower tolerance of what the amperage should be. This way you not only test the wiring for shorts and opens, but also the actual load, i.e. solenoid for excessive or too little amps. Also when looking at the PWM signal, you won’t see an inductive spike as the current has a slow decaying waveform on turnoff. If you look at the current waveform, you’ll see that it looks more like a sawtooth waveform. Great video by the way! Keep up the good work!
Thank you for your input! This is awesome information!
Hey stuzman, been reading your comments for years and always find them very informative. Thanks for the input
Another excellent ALA diagnostic video. Overthinking and over explaining is a good thing for DIYers like me. Learning so much. Eric, you have a real gift in the ability to explaining electronics and car operations. Keep doing what you are doing!
The "overthinking" is a good thing! It's teaching diagnostic techniques and not simply one specific fix. Love the vids.
Such a great teaching style the way you walk through the actual testing and thought process throughout the repair, keep it up and thanks!
Thank you!
What he said, I agree.
Ditto. I've been watching diag vids for a long time and never completely understood ECU activated ground side switching.
To answer your two main questions, the sense circuit is on the high side control. The bias voltage is used to calculate the circuit resistance by looking at the voltage drop across the sense circuit's precise dropping resistor. The other question was the spec for the solenoid resistance, you were looking at it when you had the code troubleshooting document from GM. It's under "Component Testing " step 2. 8-13 ohms.
The old one was definitely a "variable resistance load." It was it's own stepper motor. You found it, you fixed it......Great Job!
You'd make a great instructor!
I have a Buick Verano 2012 , and here in Belize we dont have dealer for it, hence this has helped me alot before taking ot to a regular car garage....keep up and excelellent video...
Excellent video for anyone wanting to understand the science on how these parts actually work and as a math person this how I like to learn things, thank you for doing this!
I followed this video and another to replace the intake VVT solenoid on my 2015 Buick Verano with 70k miles, and it worked! Before the warning light showed up, the car stalled from time to time and I suspected the battery was dying. I took the car to Walmart and they said the battery was indeed dead. Since the battery still had two out of five years of warranties left, they replaced it for only the difference between the prices now and then. After the battery replacement, I noticed that the battery voltage on the car still fluctuated a lot, from 14.8V down to 12.8V, and the car would stall at low speed, such as before traffic lights or in a traffic jam. Then the warning light also showed up. At first, I thought the car needs an oil change. It did. When I took it to Walmart to change the oil, they said it was almost empty. I chose synthetic oil, even though it's not required. Walmart is the only one that has not raised prices. At the dealer or JiffyLube, it's around $90 but at Walmart still $56. The day after the oil change, the code was gone but returned and stayed there the next day. I used an OBD II scanner and it read the code as P0010, with the message "A Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 1" and "A Camshaft Position Timing Over - Advanced or System Performance Bank 1". After watching these videos, I took the solenoid out and measured its resistance and it's about 130 ohms, while the other one (and the new one) is in the 20 ohms range. I bought a new solenoid for the intake side from Napa Autoparts for $45 (Made in Poland. The exhaust side one is a few dollars cheaper), which looks exactly the same as the one I took out. I put it in and disconnected and reconnected the battery too. And voila! The battery voltage is now stable at 14.8 - 15V, the warning light is gone, and the car no longer stalls. Only the steering wheel seems to be a little bit stiffer than before.
We just replaced the Solenoid on my 2014 Verano, mainly because of this video. You save me a LOT of money my friend. Best to you for the amazing content.
Hey FYI, there is a lot of diag code set info: go to NASTF web site, select OEM SERVICE WEBSITES, select CHEVROLET, scroll to bottom of page, select GM MODE 6 DATA & OBD-|| DIAGNOSTIC PARAMETERS. I have found some great info on this FREE resource. Really enjoy your troubleshooting.
I truly appreciate the way you explain every thing in depth. Thank God there are people like you.
Thank you Eric. Good job again. You're not over thinking, you're doing the right thing. Covering the bases and helping the new techs by teaching them. To answer your question about how does the ECM monitor a circuit issue from a power side switched. Either by measuring amperage flow at various duty cycle commands or by monitoring the cam sensor angle at at various duty cycle commands. I'm choosing the cam sensor angle because of the supporting P0011 Performance code. The ECM is programmed to know, at every duty cycle command of the vct oil control solenoid, the phaser/cam actuator angle should be at a specific position as seen by the cam sensor position. I wouldn't be surprised if the ECM monitored both amperage and cam position.
Your explanation makes sense! Thanks for your input!
Nice input Billy. we all learn from everyones input. you and i have been on a lot of these vids and comment sections.
One of the BEST troubleshooting videos I've ever seen! Very detailed! This was fantastic! Subscribed!
Excellent video! Well explained. As a rule of thumb I always doubt anything with a coil. I am retired but over the years I have found that anytime you are troubleshooting something with a coil look at the temperature around the device. If it is subject to high temperature it will affect the windings. Also if there are 2 in the same place I would suggest that you recommend to the customer to replace both.
thanks for your posted fix. just replaced my intake VVT on 2016 Verano sport touring non turbo; I allowed the engine light to reset (clear) on its on after approx 30-40 mile drive cycle (running errands)! gtg return to service lol. now to delve into the intermittent passenger airbag light--on when 'nothing' is in the seat. again thanks!
some will say you over explain what you are doing, they will be the people that already know diagnostics however, if you are new to diagnostics it is better to explain everything because that is how you learn every aspect about a circuit that you may be dealing with, great vid, it gets a like from me.
Thank you for this video. These codes and issues have been occurring on my vehicle. You've answered so many of the questions I've been asking. Subscribed.
Bravo...really nice job using your troubleshooting knowledge! You saved a customer a LOT of frustration and money! The sad part is that a lot of garages put the time/money factors in front of accurate and confirmed testing; which initially gives the appearance of expertice to the customer, and makes more initial revenue for the business, but in the end they didn't fix the problem and the customer will spend their next dime someplace else. When things are done right, you might add a little time, and have a lower revenue for that issue; howeve, you will have earned the trust and respect of the customer and will most likely have repeat business and new business from the customers recommendations.
Just replaced the intake cam solenoid actuator on my moms car. Had rough intermittent idle, hesitation under acceleration and poor fuel economy. Also 5with check engine light. Only thing I did differently from your video is I unplugged the negative side of the battery first before I worked on it. Once new part was installed I hooked everything back up and no more check engine light. Was on a 2014 verano premium with 2.0 turbo.
This is a great video. A lot more detail on diagnosis than a novice like me needed as I just wanted to replace the solenoid based on the p0011 code but this video gave me confidence that I could do it myself. The only thing lacking was how to remove the wire connector from the solenoid itself which took a while until I used a plyers to apply enough force to disengage the connector.
Well done, Eric. We always tell the customer to be sure there is at least a quarter tank of gas when we service their vehicle because if it runs out while road testing we charge shop labor rate for the tech and the person to deliver fuel.
I read all the comments and I agree. 100 % with every single comment. You are right on is not overthinking I call it great teaching
I love your thought process. I want to be able to quick and effectively diagnose so I don’t just throw parts even if it’s probably that I like to verify. Watching your video seems like I could learn a lot from you.
Man, tienes un Don para explicar las cosas, thanks I can understand you very good
Awesome video! Very in depth and informative. This is the kind of video I like. Thanks.
Wish we have someone like you in Chicago area
You know stuf ,you know systematicly how to fix it ,please keep countinue good work
Been a scanner danner junky about five years your diag is spot on I like.the bias voltage forgot about that good for diagnostics
Great video, I just want to give you my 2 cents. Beware of checking ground with the power probe because it has a hi impedance and will show a good ground and it could be bad. Always load test grounds and powers with some load. Also know that temperature has a big part when checking resistance, when you tested the new solenoid it was cold, at op temp it could change 3-5 ohms.
Good Video bro! Ya really know your stuff. We need more guys like you on Utube that actually know more than just turning a wrench. Ya helped me fix my problem! Much appreciated 👍
Thinks for sharing, it is very helpful method we need for GM and OPEL cars.
For diagnos I use Bosch KTS 540 and we find diagrams and values for must electrical parts, put sometimes we need diagrams we not found inside data base KTS.
15:42 - Great explanation about bias voltage ! Good luck man
One of the best instructional videos I have watched in a very long time.
I loved ur explanations and in my personal opinion I think u make the best instructional videos in youtube. Love u and wish u alot of success.
We saw same variable resistance on a VVT solenoid that threw a code on a similar 2.4l ecotec engine. We replaced both solenoids with OEM parts; those also read about 11ohms new.
I’d like to add this review thank you I recently want to take 5 Oil change place they try the bag that my car is fine with regular oil not the full Fetick Not sure it’s a type that didn’t write a good look out because my oil who’s getting low I didn’t realize and when I went to oil change, he found my cord to oil low. He found my transmission cap loose and something on my undercarriage cover for the engine was all zip tied together boy $260 for a tuneup might have to go to the mechanic and get those auto parts that you have in your vehicle Taken out and replace I say thank you to the great video
I love seeing your thought processes esp. on the wiring diagrams! Keep that going!
thank you for watching!
Very detailed description! Nice job 👍😎❤️
man this is the issue i just had this morning..thanks dude
Likely to be an Infineon high-side driver. These parts have open load detection, and is usually accomplished by passing a very small current to ensure that there is continuity in the load circuit.
The parts also have a couple different status outputs like a simple "on if ok" or a more esoteric current measurement channel that outputs a voltage to an ADC that is proportional to the current flowing in the load.
Thanks for your input!
Very detailed explanations. I just wish I was smart enough to follow you through it all. Nice job though.
THANK YOU FOR THE USEFUL INFORMATION , IT'S ALWAYS GOOD TO HAVE MANY TESTS ON A DIAGNOSTIC JOB AND THANKS AGAIN !
Good video. In description and operation don't explain. But in the troubleshooter for the same code is a note.
Note: A test lamp must be used for this test. The control circuit is pulled-up to a low current voltage, 1.5-3.5 V on the control circuit is normal.
That info is key but it doesn't apply to every system and car. Example Chrysler monitoring a field collapse to check for coil integrity.
Also the resistance check of the new one and the old one it's pretty similar around 10 ohms to 14 ohms which is really not identified by doing voltage tests
Another great video good way to diagnose these solenoid quick is a resistance reading I guess. Trouble is can't do this on some things like abs sensors the new ones go wrong using resistance. Why I'm so impressed you scope everything surprised that never showed the fault as well though
Appreciate the thorough diag. No shortcuts. Thank u!!
Thank you!
Thanks man really needed this car been turning off on me when I light tap it
Thank you so much mine did not set check engine light so I tested it it wad reading 0.00 ohms witch is wired but I just replaced it problem solved thank you
Appreciate your video. Helped a ton and learned a lot and changed my own And not to mention saved me a ton of money. Subscribed and all that. Thanks again
I like your videos really good at explaining things easily in a methodical way .only thing I sometimes think and I've been caught out with power probe is there led lights and have been caught out as need a test light I personally think as well as power probe just to load circuit more only my opinion though
Another very well explained video. Awsome
Good explanation on the circuit. Could have a shorted or grounded wire. Good for you to diagnosis first before throwing a part at it.
I would think that the live and ground are beside each other inside the ecu and the voltage sensing circuit goes from the live to ground but for the purpose of the digram they are shown as being seprat.
This is the problem I have been having thank you. This car is defective
i don't know about other brands but on toyotas it is a combination of cam crank correlation and current monitoring.
Mike with NGK just did a 2 hour video on a similar vehicle for similar codes... Nice to see different angles
Haha! What a coincidence. I shot this video a week ago. These are very common faults on these vehicles. Thanks for watching!
@@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO if you come across a 2.5l Toyota with similar codes and possibly a cam phaser issue please do a full diag and repair! I'll be very grateful
very helpful and i love the way that you over thinking cause of its help me to understand well thank you very very very much and keep going i will be wait for more
Thank you for watching
Yes, very helpful understanding control system wiring. Great job again.
i'm did a 2017 verano with 2.4l engine. i read 2 volts on the ground side wire. revving the engine when it had been warmed up, there were glitches on the driver waveform. checking the ground wire resistance against pin 5 of the dlc through a breakout box showed intermittent resistance value
Definitely the way you go is like a really pro thank one again
It seems like the resistance of any coil the DC resistance is always on low value like you said 10 ohms so when you disconnect the connector and reconnect the connector it goes back to low voltage because of the low resistance of the coil but you also see that 5 volts is a quiescent value that's because down the switch is closed inside the computer giving you 5 volts and the duty cycle is what changes
The code description said a time constraint. Camshaft position sensor monitors live the response of the commanded pwm. A lengthy delay sets the code. A crappy actuator would caused delayed feedback.
Perfect I learned a lot from u very good approach GOD BLESS
Thank you and god bless
great job Eric thanks i would look at AESWAVE terminal test kit you deserve it bro
I’ll look into it. Thanks for watching!
I'll guess that you are right, the bias voltage seen only when unplugged suggest a trickle of current is going across that little stepper motor even when not activated. Like a flashlight that kills batteries over a few weeks, the switch has a tenuous pathway through corrosion inside the device to ground. It would have been interesting to see if the same bias voltage is seen on the exhaust side. Dang those manufacturers for not providing adequate information.
Thank you for watching
I'm looking at a vehicle being sold with potentially this problem. Could any particular driving habit (like driving your car with low oil) cause these actuators to go bad and set off codes or are these really just limited to some type of common malfunction with these vehicles.. or maybe both? Thanks for the video. Your explanation helps understand how these components work
Excellent troubleshooting.
Thank you
First thanks for the good content on your channel. I wonder if you looked at the coil with a current probe that would show the swings of the resistance in the circuit. I have not tried it but it is on the list now.
I had the same problem with my 2016 Verano. Had 59 ohms on the intake side. According to my dealer the normal ohm range is 7-13.
Great video great explanation thanks for sharing your knowledge
thank you eric for the great explanation GOD BLESS YOU
You are spot on, thank you for your Chanel
Great job Eric. As always well explained. Thank you for sharing! 👍
Thank you for watching
Agree not over thinking, your teaching
Your 100% right, always check first!
Good luck 👍🏻 excelente trabajo.
Keep the videos coming eric. Love your style
Bro, your content is great.
Thank you
I suspect the high failure rate of those solenoids is because of the position they are in on the engine. The area is hot with little air flow. I's a terrible position for anything electrical.
unique teaching skills
Useful info man! Thank you! God bless you!
What do u think it could be ive replace everything ocv, syncronizer, chain tensioner, test solenoid wiring all goods signal from ecm is good but every time exhaust vvt is connected card shuts off, do u think it could be an ecm problem maybe because it is beind commanded when it shouldnt
What if changing the solinoid doesn't fix this problem?. Girlfriends car has the shudder but no codes. She replaced the solinoid as well. One new one and one used one. I was thinking an oil galley might be plugged?
Thanks, very well explained!!
I believe it's monitored at the output driver internal the control module.
Well done my friend. Sam
I normally find that the dipstick isn't long enough when I see those codes
Great video... how much would a repair like this would cost from a non dealership vs. the repairs being done at a dealership?
Eric, excellent video and thank you for going over the circuit design. Your videos to me are extremely helpful for the way that you explain the circuit and then show the test procedure. Trying hard to learn system operations by reading the schematic. Looking into purchasing a couple of ATG training and system manuals. They are giving me a good deal and wonder if you have any input. If I buy two the third is free. Any thoughts appreciated. 👍👍👍
I’m not familiar with ATG training but it’s always a good idea to invest in training. Thank you for watching!
thanks alot. very helpful
Great video thanks again
thanks very detailed analysis.
you did good man, nice explanation
Thank you
if the signal find voltage spikes where they can come from?ignition?altenator?ecu?bad ground?
Great explanation - thanks.
Thank you,great video!
Well done .Also it wouldn't hurt people to have at least 1/4 of a tank of fuel in their cars when they drop them in .
ty for all you do.
Acts like a coil when energized it soaks the voltage to operate so it drops and voltage goes down amps go high. Being a square wave just like a can signals.