Oh man.. I’ve let my poor car sit for a year, they told me I had low compression probably due to turbo blowing up. Car went into limp mode, man I’m so upset 😖 I’m gonna try this though. It was the first car that I bought I looked for an entire year for some obscure issue ( my turbo’s wastegate still secure ) I’m very happy I found this video. Pretty much summed up everything. Only 134k miles
Bro, thank you!! I was putting a new turbo inlet pipe on mine and had knocked this plug loose, and I couldn’t figure out what was wrong with my car and I watched your video and I realized where they were and I had knocked them off, fast forward to just plugging them back in and now my problem is solved!you rock bro!
FYI- I watched your video. The same codes I have on my 2013 Regal. Changed both solenoids, and changed the oil, and it’s as good as new now. 131,000 miles on my Regal. It IS that simple!
I bought the solenoids, but had oil change before putting it in, as often times if oil is low it can effect how the operate. Got oil change and check engine light still on, with car acting up at stops like before. Drove it 100 miles over 2 days, and light turned off and now car is running perfect. Not sure if it just takes time for oil to do its thing on the solenoids, but its good so far
It’s plausible, new oil has detergents that might have cleaned up sludge in the valves. Some cars that require 20w oil and you run thicker it will cause cam phaser issues and check Engine lights plus running issues
Yep I got a P0010 code and said intake camshaft but then no other code but the o’reillys scanner also said replace the engine variable valve timing solenoid.
Scan tool is the quickest way, it will self reset after several key starts as long as it doesn’t see the fault anymore. I doubt this code will reset by disconnecting the battery.
Good question. Most codes will reset by disconnecting battery, some require a scan tool to reset them. Almost all of them will go away if the fault does not reoccur after about 50 key start cycles. The best way is use a scan tool to verify What code or possibly codes might still be in the ecm. This particular code for the solenoid fault not sure if it will go away by disconnecting the battery next time I have that fault I will try it. Because now I am curious.
I think the best repair would be buy the pigtail for which ever solenoid is damaged. Google search “2013 Buick Regal vvt solenoid pigtail” then specify intake or exhaust. And that will give you a replacement plug that will stay secure. It seems to be a common issue what you have experienced the pigtails Are available and easy to find.
This has to be the longest link I have ever seen. Good chance RUclips will remove this before you get it. www.carparts.com/details/Buick/Regal/Replacement/Variable_Timing_Solenoid/2013/SET-REPC380802-2.html?TID=gglpla&origin=&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0p2QBhDvARIsAACSOOOGhqu1BdR4A4h3OmiV3tqhRqotWzFI55yNqvDHW25jSZ3F5AnzyS0aAqn7EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I don’t see how they could. The most that will happen is runs poor or low power from what I understand. Then the tach signal originates from the crank sensor, totally separate. Now on most newer cars the tachometer doesn’t start reading until after it’s running.
Question, the red tabs are missing on the top of the electrical piece you have to wiggle off, any tips on how I can get them off the solenoid? Thanks so much! And thanks for the video! Hoping this helps! We lost power in the car and got the same code!
Ok so just pull on the plug a little harder and they should come off? I was wiggling and pulling yesterday and couldn't get the plug off lol I just didn't want to break them!
@@kristinejerry409 there should still be a release that needs to be depressed to get it unplugged. The red thing if it had it was a lock for the push release. Sometimes it helps to push the plug back in the push the release to pull it off
Same codes, same power loss. Replaced both VVTs because of this video, and it worked! Thanks!
That is awesomeness, glad to help!
Oh man.. I’ve let my poor car sit for a year, they told me I had low compression probably due to turbo blowing up. Car went into limp mode, man I’m so upset 😖 I’m gonna try this though. It was the first car that I bought
I looked for an entire year for some obscure issue ( my turbo’s wastegate still secure ) I’m very happy I found this video. Pretty much summed up everything. Only 134k miles
Bro, thank you!! I was putting a new turbo inlet pipe on mine and had knocked this plug loose, and I couldn’t figure out what was wrong with my car and I watched your video and I realized where they were and I had knocked them off, fast forward to just plugging them back in and now my problem is solved!you rock bro!
Right on! Very cool. Nice easy fix
FYI- I watched your video. The same codes I have on my 2013 Regal.
Changed both solenoids, and changed the oil, and it’s as good as new now. 131,000 miles on my Regal. It IS that simple!
Right on! Got to love the easy fixes
Thanks man! Wasn’t sure if it was on the side or under the plastic. Didn’t have to dig around needlessly because of this!
That’s great
I bought the solenoids, but had oil change before putting it in, as often times if oil is low it can effect how the operate. Got oil change and check engine light still on, with car acting up at stops like before. Drove it 100 miles over 2 days, and light turned off and now car is running perfect. Not sure if it just takes time for oil to do its thing on the solenoids, but its good so far
It’s plausible, new oil has detergents that might have cleaned up sludge in the valves. Some cars that require 20w oil and you run thicker it will cause cam phaser issues and check
Engine lights plus running issues
Yep I got a P0010 code and said intake camshaft but then no other code but the o’reillys scanner also said replace the engine variable valve timing solenoid.
Yup replace them and 99% of the time it fixes the code
Man, great no nonsense video. Thanks so much for sharing your experience! Have a blessed day 👍😎❤️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸⚓. Keep wrenchin'
No problem. I try to keep short and simple no need to over elaborate things. Thanks for checking us out.
@@VinylVillageGarage Info on this engine and car is hard to access. Guys like you keep the wheels turnin'!👍😎
Turbo Buick! 👍🏼
I figured you would like it. I did visit with the owner and NFS at this time I will keep his number handy and keep trying.
Thanks so much for this video!!!!
No problem
Great video. How do you reset the codes?
Scan tool is the quickest way, it will self reset after several key starts as long as it doesn’t see the fault anymore. I doubt this code will reset by disconnecting the battery.
If I don’t have a scanner to clear the code, will the light not go away?
Good question. Most codes will reset by disconnecting battery, some require a scan tool to reset them. Almost all of them will go away if the fault does not reoccur after about 50 key start cycles. The best way is use a scan tool to verify What code or possibly codes might still be in the ecm. This particular code for the solenoid fault not sure if it will go away by disconnecting the battery next time I have that fault I will try it. Because now I am curious.
When pulling off the wires, the bottom of the clip broke off so now it's not fully seated. How difficult is it to replace the wire?
I think the best repair would be buy the pigtail for which ever solenoid is damaged. Google search “2013 Buick Regal vvt solenoid pigtail” then specify intake or exhaust. And that will give you a replacement plug that will stay secure. It seems to be a common issue what you have experienced the pigtails
Are available and easy to find.
Could you send link of where to get both of these?
This has to be the longest link I have ever seen. Good chance RUclips will remove this before you get it.
www.carparts.com/details/Buick/Regal/Replacement/Variable_Timing_Solenoid/2013/SET-REPC380802-2.html?TID=gglpla&origin=&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0p2QBhDvARIsAACSOOOGhqu1BdR4A4h3OmiV3tqhRqotWzFI55yNqvDHW25jSZ3F5AnzyS0aAqn7EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Hellll Yesss thank you thank you!!!
Glad to help! Thanks for letting me know
I bought them from the GM dealer they’re up to $120 for a pair.
It seems the price for everything has gone up quite a bit here as of recent, a bit more then I would like to see I might add.
i just bought some from rockauto and they were 39 each! check there next time! they have OEM parts too
Can I still drive my car meanwhile the part arrives?
It will run but it may have reduced power depending on how bad it is. The owner of this car still did for 3 days until his solenoids showed up.
@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks for the quick reply, I changed it yesterday :)
glad to help. that is why I am doing this thanks for letting me know
Will those cause the car to be hard to start and tach not work?
I don’t see how they could. The most that will happen is runs poor or low power from what I understand. Then the tach signal originates from the crank sensor, totally separate. Now on most newer cars the tachometer doesn’t start reading until after it’s running.
@VinylVillageGarage was hoping for a cheaper repair. More than likely the ecm then.
Question, the red tabs are missing on the top of the electrical piece you have to wiggle off, any tips on how I can get them off the solenoid? Thanks so much! And thanks for the video! Hoping this helps! We lost power in the car and got the same code!
i believe the red thing you are describing is the lock for the plug. they are not required to operate, hopefully this fixes your problems as well
Ok so just pull on the plug a little harder and they should come off? I was wiggling and pulling yesterday and couldn't get the plug off lol I just didn't want to break them!
@@kristinejerry409 there should still be a release that needs to be depressed to get it unplugged. The red thing if it had it was a lock for the push release. Sometimes it helps to push the plug back in the push the release to pull it off
Thank you so much for responding! I will try and figure out where the release is!