DT770 Removable Cable Mod
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- Опубликовано: 1 май 2020
- DT770 Removable Cable Mod. Changing out the stock cable on the DT 770 pro for a removable cable using a miniXLR connector.
This is a fairly simple mod but any DIY modification is inherently risky. If you're worried about damaging the driver whilst working on the headphone you can desolder the wire joining the right-hand side. You of course then take some risk with extra soldering on the driver itself. If you accidentally desolder the voice coil then the driver is dead. But if you are confident with your soldering and have a steady hand (unlike me) then that might make things easier.
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🎧 Headphones 🎧
🛒 Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 80 Ohm: amzn.to/32amtQu
🛒 Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250 Ohm: amzn.to/3bOqAGp
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🛒 Antex Soldering Iron Kit: amzn.to/3d9X125
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🛒 Helping hands: amzn.to/2KNJtNl
🛒 RS Pro wire stripper: uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-s...
🔎 Rean MiniXLR Connectors: www.rean-connectors.com/en/pro...
🔎 MBO lead free solder 3% silver: en.mbosolder.com/tin-solder-w...
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This is a fairly simple mod but any DIY modification is inherently risky. But the point of this video is to show that if I can do it, then you can do it. If you're worried about damaging the driver whilst working on the headphone you can desolder the wire joining the right-hand side. You of course then take some risk with extra soldering on the driver itself. If you accidentally desolder the voice coil then the driver is dead. But if you are confident with your soldering and have a steady hand (unlike me) then that might make things easier.
Could I contact you to do the same process in my Dt and know how much it would cost me ? I don't know some other person that those this process
@@ame1760 Wheezy created this vid to show how you can do this yourself, just sayin' ;-)
the life is too short , so hack your devices
During the process the left most contact on the driver came loose with the cable. I mean the gold ish plate to which the solder connects. Any advice on what I can do or am I just fucked?
@@danielderaad did you sort this? If not: you should be able to solder to the pad for the voice coil.
Your order of operations could be better, next time try soldering the wire leads to the driver first, then you can feed them through the hole, slide your heat shrink on, then solder the connector, and finally finish off your heat shrink. This should minimize the amount of fiddling with a loose driver and short wire leads.
Yeah in hindsight that would be the better way to go
@@WheezyTech What is the reason for replacing the wires on the driver? It seems like the mod would be a bit more easy when you connect the original wires to the new connector.
@@unrealcyberfly I have tried that before and theres 2 reasons for doing it this way. The original wires are very short so quite fiddly to work with. Also the original wires are litz which is very hard to solder compared to regular copper wire due to them having an enamel coating that needs to be burned off during the soldering. These two things combined makes it much simpler to replace this section of wiring.
@@WheezyTech I see. Thanks for the reply!
@@WheezyTech the original wires aren't short, they're the length of the whole cable all the way to the TRS plug. Also, you can burn the enamel coating and make soldering your connections easier in one stroke by 'tinning' the end of the wire, that is giving the wire a coat of solder on its own.
I think this got recommend to me cause I just bought a pair of dt770 pros 😂
Same lol
Might do it when my cable breaks
I just ordered a pair.... How's your experience so far, brother?
What your review about them
@@shaunaksawargaonkar7814 I've had the dt770 pro 80ohm for like half a week now and I absolutely love them. Extremely comfortable, the most open Soundstage I've heard so far (haven't tried open back headphones), they sound fairly neutral (coming from bassy headphones) but also more fun than truly flat headphones. Also they are quite cheap.
Only gripes: The cable is way too long for me, and they very rarely sound a bit harsh with high frequencies. Absolutely acceptable though.
Also notice the 80ohms are said to sound a bit different from the other versions
@@tomwoodward5334 Not atm. I was thinking about it, but haven't bought anything yet. Using my computer that has a pretty good sound card, I listen at around 30% volume. I have never used high end dacs or amps before, so I can't help with that.
I knew this would be a first-rate procedure when I saw the Antex iron! Well thought out, presented well and good videography. Thanks for the idea. I really want an uncoiled cable, so I'll be doing this soon. Great job!
Thank you so much for this video. I love my dt770s. They were my first pair of 'good' headphones and I always come back to them. Took just about an hour start to finish. Whoo hoo!
Great video. Very informative and well done. Thank you so much! I used it as the template for my own DT 770 Pro mod, but added a couple twists of my own. First, I removed the snap-on headband pad, and then completely detached the left ear can assembly from the headband by removing the plastic slider shell on that side (2 small Torx screws). This made modifications to the can much easier by providing more freedom of movement.
When it came to the wiring, I didn’t cut the off leads from the original cable inside the can. Instead, after removing the metal retention clip inside the cup, I was able to slip the wires out of the can far enough to snip off the strain relief that was molded onto the outside of the cable. I then cut the cable outside the can, leaving enough length to retain the original Litz wires for use with the new jack, removed the driver from the can with the short cable length still attached, and slid the cable sheath off the wires. This enabled me to avoid soldering to the terminal strip on the driver, but I was then faced with having to tin the Litz wires, which is not for the faint of heart.
Fortunately, there is at least one instructional video on stripping and tinning Litz, and my digital soldering station is more than capable of achieving the necessary 400C (752F) degrees. After removing the cable jacket, tinning the Litz leads, and enlarging the hole in the can to fit my mini-XLR jack, I pulled the three individual wires back out through the hole and soldered them to the new jack (green = tip, red = ring, copper = sleeve).
After I had confirmed my results with both a digital multimeter and some music, all that remained were to secure the jack to the can with some hot glue and reassemble everything. Job done.
That was my idea, too. Using some grease is not enough to tin these original wires ?
Another thing you can do if you are worried about making a hole in your headphones is to cut the original cable and make a pigtail style cable. (Would be great to see a tutorial of this as I cant find a single one for DT 770)
Great video by the way, definitely the most detailed/hi-res tutorial out there for this mod!
Awesome thanks. I've tried that pigtail thing before but its not a particularly elegant solution. Gets the job done though.
nice camera placement, near, clear... thanks man!!
Thank you! Best video i found on youtube for this mod.
Wow! What a superb instructional Wheezy! I've watched a good number of these type vids pertaining to this subject specifically (Beyerdynamic HPs, cables and various mods) as well as related content for other HPs and stuff. I am an electrical engineer and "moderate" audiophile, and I don't recall ever seeing any such material presented and articulated with the clarity and skill you've shown here - exceptionally well done, thanks! (Liked and Sub'd)
Awesome thanks, I enjoyed making this one
Even if this mod is done properly, will there be any audio quality degradation or will it sound identical as if it weren't modded, out of the box.
Hi Wheezy, thanx for the great and informative video! Thanx to your video, I was able to do this on my DT880s
Mod done; thanks for the tutorial that was really helpful!
Man, watching that driver dangle away as you move the shell and cut away is highly unnerving 😅 i’d be more comfortable unsoldering it completely
If I was more confident at soldering I would definitely do that. I solder so infrequently and I don't have the steadiest hand so I was more worried about accidentally desoldering the voice coil. But yeah either way you gotta be careful.
Good tutorial - very helpful and using it to sense check my own upgrade work on a pair of DT990s. One step that you missed which may have made the process simpler is disconnecting the earphone (?) housing from the yoke, which is connected with Torx T6 screws (one either side), along with removing the buttoned on headband. This avoids having to bend/fold the band while working and gives plenty of slack to distance the earphone enclosure from the other half of the headphones whilst working on it.
Did a similar mod some years ago without any disassembly. Simple cut the cable to about 5cm and solder on a new 3.5mm jack, then use a headphone extension of you choice. Job done.
How did it hold up? Any affect on sound quality?
Absolutely perfect. My old pair died, bought a second pair because I love the 770s so much and now I get recommended this. Is this a sign?
No matter, I have a broken pair to convert now
Definitely a mod I will keep in the back of my head for my Tygr 300R. I love them so much, but the original Beyerdynamic cable just is a bit stiff so making that exchangeable might be a good idea. I probably will wait though until one day I damage the cable to do it since otherwise I would be to sweaty while doing the mod ^^
Great job, very temptating and scariing.
Your unsteady hands made me fear all along. Congratulations.
I own a DT 770 PRO 80 ohms for a few weeks and i will wait for its cable to betray me.
For the time beeing, i use SonarWorks Reference 4 to EQ it at its best, it's very noticeable and makes it an even better headphone.
@beyerdyanmic needs to just release a new version of DT770s with the detachable cable and save us all a lot of work lol
Great video! I should really do this. I need to get that connector for a reasonable price locally. Everything from China is taking months to get here now. Thanks for this!
I actually found our local (RS components in the UK) electronics part supplier stocked everything I needed for a good price so that was lucky. Yeah things are taking a while from China atm, I'm still waiting for stuff that I'm sure is lost in transit at this point.
Good little mod for DT770 owners. I don't own one, so have gone with the new DT700 ProX (48 Ohm) which has a mini XLR jack as standard.
The 700 pro x are good but I suggest getting a set of 770s and having them modded whether or not you do it yourself or not because they sound really good in some ways which the 700 pro x just don't although I love both sets of headphones
I'm literally begging beyerdynamic to do this. It would be so easy to do so. This would be my dream headphone, only the cable is setting me back.
thanks for the closeup shots, those tiny wires are nasty to deal with)
Thank you for this awesome tutorial!
If you remove the headband pad the connecting cable between the left and right earcup is completely free. It isnt run through any part of the frame. The headband is just snaps, made to be removed/replaced. Quite possibly one of my favorite design choices
awesome vid thanks for making the effort!
I dont have this headphones, nor do I intend to buy them, I dont own soldering equipment, nor have I ever done this in my life.... however: I loved watching you how careful and meticulously you worked !
love your channel, instant sub
despite of we cannkt remove the cable see default, its good to know that there is a retention to it, may be as a protection in case accident happen. nice mod btw. great info in case i need to mod mine.
Helping hands pro tip.. use a peice of foam on the alligator clip to minimise damage when using to clip
Good tip, thanks
Thats dope, u're pro man
Great! I'll only dare to do this if the cable breaks on mine, otherwise I see no point. But cool to know this is an easy mod!
great video gonna try it
Thanks for the video. I think I'll cut the original cable two inches past the headphones then pull them put of the cable sheath, and voila, already on the coil from the factory, ready to micro-trim and solder onto the XLR. I'll see if that works!
Great work.
It would kost me ton,s of sweat to do this. nice video. thank you
Hey man, what do you recommend to use for the female xlr connector? I'm thinking of reusing a cable I have.
Great video! I might have missed it, but can you tell and/or link the cable you're using to connect up these headphones. I'm struggling to find a nice coiled cable like you were using in the video. Thanks!
Thanks for the vid planning on doing it if they brake
Great job, you inspired me to do the same.
just a good video, thanks
No idea what just happened, I'd be scared to do this, but Im subbing!
that's why you buy superlux and practice on them)
@@Grom84 ohh. I'll try that
@@IGarrettI superlux hd330 or hd660
Mine have a faulty cable so I’m definitely gonna give this a try
gut gemacht meister
Just a tip. You don't need to handle the whole thing as one. You can just open the headpad and unscrew the plastic sides with the same bit that's used for Xbox controllers, I think is called torx, very easy to find. That way you're just moving the left earpad
I just yanked my cable, now this is an option to do some mod. ty
IMO, this should already come like this. This can be the deciding factor in getting these vs something with a removable cable. Its ridiculous to have to go through this.
Thank you very much for the video! Great stuff.
I had a question to you or to anyone who's tried this method. Does the cutting of the plastic collar induce any sort of rumble or change in any way the characteristics of the headphone in its original condition? Thank you very much in advance.
I really liked this Mod and thinking of doing the same with my DT 990 since my right driver keeps cutting out whenever the main cable going into the headphones moves, so hopefully doing this mod will fix the issue! I don't want to discard a good pair of headphones or get new ones when I can just fix my currents ones. But I have a couple of questions.. What was the gauge on the wire you used between the miniXLR connector and the driver? and, was it a single core or strands wire?
I would really appreciate any suggestions!
4:26 how do you know which wire matches which bit of the cable end, using the voltmeter?
Can you make a video on modding a k550 mk2's cable, making It detachable?
If you cut the original cable further down, after the strain relief, would you be able to pull the wires from that, so that you wouldn't need to desolder them from the driver?
I like these headphones and am not one to really shy away from DIY work like this, but I don't know if it's worth the effort for me instead of just buying a different pair of headphones that doesn't have such a ridiculously long cable built into it
I understand the clean look of connection in cup, but would cutting the wire outside the cup and soldering on whichever connection you desire be easier/ just as effective??
Can the retaining nut of the mini XLR socket be fitted?
Those joints looked a little on the cold side... but thanks for the video! Giving me some good ideas for my 'phones.
Nice video, but what about the sound quality after this mod? You´ve put quite a lot of new material inside the housing, so the acoustics of the inner space must be slightly different now. And cutting off the plastic "bridge" from the central ring can also affect stability/vibration. Do you have some comparison with the original unmodded DT 770? Thanks!
im planning to do this too.
i'll also put in a 3.5mm jack along with mini xlr for the microphone.
idk how easy it would be to drill a new hole in it for that
Just finished my DT770 Mod: From 80 Ohm to 600 Ohm. I'm in love. So much more Detail. Even better than the 250 Ohm Version, which is a little ear piercing. I never understood why Beyerdynamic isn't selling a DT770 Verfsion with 600 Ohm...
Nice, did you use driver from the 880?
@@WheezyTech No, I guess they don't match with a closed back headphone. I used the original DT770 600 Ohm drivers from their website. Unfortunately one driver costs 48,70 Euro. So you better be careful with soldering ;-) Here's the Link: www.beyerdynamic.de/system-600-ohm-dt-770.html
@@thomaskohler5181 I forgot that they used to do a 600 Ohm 770. This is the reason I love Beyerdynamic, the fact they still make these parts available to buy even when they don't currently produce a 600 Ohm 770 is excellent service.
I wish i could just buy the DT770(250) with a straight cable, even if it isn't detachable. Coil Cables are my worst enemy :P
I could always shoot for the more expensive DT1770, but i hear they're worse, in ways, compared to the 250 ohm DT770's.
hi does someone know where i get replacements for the plastic parts where the L and R is on they broke on my dt 770 if possible i would like to have them from metal
just got some DT770/32s, don't plan on doing this mod but its good information in case the cable ever does break so i know what i'm dealing with. a little sketched with how far the 3.5mm plug sticks out and im scared ill accidentally bend it
hello i got a small problem. my headphones are working after this mod but the sound quality is very poor on both sides. i wanted to ask if i somehow damaged the voice coil. im also using cheap cable but i dont know if that is the reason. thanks
Amongst the 267 previous comments someone may have already mentioned this, so forgive me if they have, but:
A balanced mod would not be much more trouble - the necessary 4 separate wires are all available in the left earcup. Just needs 4-pole mini XLR connectors and cable (Van Damme mini Starquad is ideal - once you've used a meter to identify its identical pair colours) plus your choice of connector for the amp end (either Pentaconn plug - now much cheaper than they were, or 4-pole standard- sized XLR).
As well as a detachable balanced lead, you could also make up a 3-pole TRS plug to a 4-pole mini XLR plug WIRED UNBALANCED within the plug. Then you could use the headphones balanced or, as originally supplied, unbalanced, to suit your available amp output(s).
(A balanced mod is that much easier, of course, on models where the already fitted 3-pole mini XLR just needs swapping out for a 4-pole).
how can i mod the original cable to a mini xlr connector?
NICE
Can you make a video presenting as how to mod m1060c's headband with a more stable one?
Great job! Quick question, I'm not very industriously inclined: 4:13 - how did you know which wire is which? I see the numbers but I'm not sure what exactly you were looking for here.
I was checking the connection between each pole on the headphone jack and the three wires where they connect to the driver. I had the multimeter set to beep when a circuit is completed. You can't really hear it on video but the multimeter beeps when I have connected the pole of the jack to the correct wire, that way I know which connection on the driver corresponds to which pole on the jack.
The multimeter has a continuity function that emits a high pitched beep when you touch both ends of a wire.
Great video 😆 now can I send you mines and you mod them for me?!
I bet that "Dremel" is from Lidl :-)
May i ask what cable you are using? also the page for the connectors no longer works
The only reason the headphone is sold this way is market segmentation. I wish there were more good options in closed back headphone. I have these too i hate it.
I wonder, can't you just cut off the existing wire long enough and solder the new mini xlr connector to the already attached wire litz? so you would never actually have to solder on the driver itself? I don't think that should be a problem other than you no longer can twist the connector in, but only push.
Do you recommend buying an offbrand cable from amazon, or should I buy a replacement cable straight from Beyerdynamic?
I'm trying to figure out how to do a dual cable mini xlr on both sides. Aren't many if any tutorials, if you or anyone knows how, please tell me
can I use a file to file out a hole instead of using a rotary tool? I think it might take longer, but with enough patience it could turn out pretty good.
Could you put a 3.5mm connector instead of mini xlr. I want to use a lightning cable but there is no xlr to lightning only 3.5mm to lightning. Any help is much appreciated
Not certain if you did or not but. You should tin the driver pads themselves before you attempt to solder anything to them. Since its likely lead free. Add some 60/40 to it and it'll mix and lower the melting temp making for a better connection. Less likely to be a cold joint or crack in the future.
When you used the multimeter to check what where you looking for as I just saw random numbers or maybe I wasn’t paying attention
Cool great mod, that's the only thing that puts me off buying these headphones everything is easy replaceable except the hard wired cable...
Hey Wheezy, could you update your video description with the sizing/exact type of the miniXLR you used? Unfortunately the link posted no longer goes to a product on the website. They still have XLR's listed but they are tiny XLR etc now.... not mini. Not sure if tiny and mini are considered the same size by Rean or if these newer XLR connectors are smaller than the ones you used. I'm looking into getting myself a pair of 770 pro 32's at some point and really would like to do this mod, but I want to make sure I can still get the correct XLR connectors before investing in these cans. Thanks in advance if you're able to do this ^^
Nice! can you use a balanced cable with this wiring?
great tutorial dude...I modded my dt770s with two 4 pin audio jacks (TRRS), one for audio and one for microphone because I preferred a headset instead of headphones + usb microphone with boom arm. Unfortunately I got massive problems with crosstalk that means my mic picks up every single audio from my pc. I think the problem is that mic and left and right driver share the same ground dont they? I use a TRRS male to male cable. I tested a logitech g pro x headset which has a 5 pin pole audio jack and a 3 pole jack for the mic. It comes with a 5 pole TRRRS to 4 pole TRRS cable and there was no crosstalk at all.
Is is possible to mod a dt 770 to a headset with mic with no crosstalk? What if I use a 5 pin audio socket and a 3 pin mic socket? How do I have to wire all cables?
Ahhhhhhhhhh I want this in my 770s. The non-removable cables is the biggest issue of these headphones. But I'm scared. I guess, i will do it, once i'm out of warranty and my cable inevitably breaks... :D
The internet taught me that everything fits in a square hole, so I did this mod without dremel.
what rpm are you using on that ""dremel" ?
Can you install wireless hd adapter into it?
Dude I get similar shakes when doing really delicate stuff I swear its a nervous anxious thing lol.
Yeah this. Get all prepped, got all the tools laid out, know exactly what I'm doing, feel confident. Picks up the soldering iron.... Oh god I cant stop shaking XD
I just found your channel and I see you haven't posted for some time now. I how you will start to post again.
What gauge wire are the red and white ones? And what gauge wire did you use to connect the jack?
Out of curiosity wouldn't it be much easier to just cut the original cable off at a point further away from the driver and just remove the insulation, that way you could reuse the cable and avoid soldering on the pcb, seeing as that is pretty much the only part where things could go seriously wrong. I think I did it that way on my DT 880s but that was a really long time ago and I sold them since, so I am not sure anymore.
Is there a mini XLR Bluetooth receiver out there? Would be nice to use these on the go without bringing a long-ass cable
Maybe a stupid question.
I also checked my cables with the multimeter and it beeped in every combination of cables and plug connectors.
Is it the one with the highest value?
You should be checking for continuity so when you are shorting the two ends it beeps.
So why did you choose to use mini XLR instead of 3.5mm headphone Jack? I’m trying to do this as well but not sure which connector to use
couldn't you in theory clip the factory wire longer and use that wire to connect to the XLR connector that way you dont have to desolder from the driver and you can also keep the OE wire.
After 3 years since I last commented, the day seems to have finally come. It sounds like the connector of my headphones is dead, probably a cable got loose inside. I am currently ordering all the parts and a soldering iron. I will go with the Rean RT3 MPR connector though since I will be able to mount that after the soldering is done. Wish me luck.
The PVC isolated wires are pretty heavy compared to the original coated ones, so you alter the oscillation behaviour of the membrane. You should have used the original ones, there is a reason why such wires are utilised in speakers.
This is wrong. These wires connect between the driver and the connector. They have nothing to do with the voice coil or the diaphragm. If you believe that by being attached to the driver they will somehow alter the way the voice coil moves then this should really the very least of your concerns. I've already added a chunk of metal in the XLR connector, cut away some of the plastic ring, drilled a larger hole... The driver is not in such a delicate balance that replacing these wires makes any difference at all.
What's more this is a cheap pair of headphones with all the unit variances that comes along with it, and huge changes in sound that occur due to earpad wear over time that would hugely significantly outweigh anything that this mod would do on its own. Its totally a non-issue.
@@WheezyTech What I have written is not “wrong”, it’s a fact. Whether it’s a real issue or not is a matter of quantifying it and then setting a threshold, which is is debatable. Regarding its impact compared to the other changes you made is yet another topic. Without any measurements you cannot say much about it, but in my opinion it would have been a better decision to try to keep the original construction design of lightweight wires. In any case, what I have written is not “wrong”, you just disagree that it matters, without any proofs or measurements. Let me add that I really appreciate your thrive to improve the design and sharing it with the world though, so apologies if my criticism reflected the opposite.
Very delicate surgery, it would be easy to break the headphone, I have another idea, just cut the built-in cable for your favorite length and resolder the cable tip, is not as elegant and versatile as your solution is but it would be extremely easy to perform, what do you think?
I've never even thought about doing this, although saying that I'm terrible at soldering, I think i'll just leave mine as they are, I'm in need of some headphone sliders cos the ones they come with are flimsy as anything, i've glued them twice already.
I really want to do this with my Ad1000x, but so scared to mess up and mess up my headphones :(
Isn't it more usefull to put a 3.5 mm audio connector in the headphones? By doing so it can be used with a v-moda boompro. Or are mini xlr connectors better quality?
I'm curious as well
For those purposes it would make more sense and at the end of the day a connector is a connector and shouldn't impact sound, although you could potentially get a balanced mini xlr with 4 pins, which can impact the sound on some headphones for the better or worse or not at all.
If you don't need a mic however mini xlr is a quite a bit sturdier and the fact that it locks in place can be quite handy, I find them a bit easier to work with and it's a bit more commonly used at least on mid range and high end headphones, so if you own multiple headphones switching is probably gonna be more convenient to switch headphones.
Honestly, I think none of these differences are that significant and it mainly comes down to personal preference.