I think its great to see what you all thought up....and than made it happen, looking back I am sure your both pretty proud of what you have done, where you have been, and all the memories that you're collecting.
Thanks so much! Here is a couple playlists of recently collected memories: ruclips.net/p/PL0uBLqOOwG8jwUuZxGmuND_bsDm3Z_XK0 ruclips.net/p/PL0uBLqOOwG8gnnxNwvCzV2d5xK1Ctvlj3
Greetings, thanks for the wonderful video. My question is, do those rivets go all the way through the metal frame and the honeycomb paneling out the other side of the opposite side metal frame or do they just go into the metal frame and under the skin of just one side of the honeycomb panel? Also, exactly what type rivets are those and what are the rivets size dimensions??
No, otherwise you'd have rivets all over the inside of the camper... They are called butterfly rivets and they open up inside the panel, pulling the outer skin against the gasket until the SikaFlex 252 cures. After that, they are cosmetic and serve little functional purpose.
Awesome work! I am always stuck between buying something (that doesn't fit my needs) and making something (that is beyond my skills and budget). I admire your skills AND budget. I'm seeing those honecomb composite panels for no less than $250 for a 4'x8'x1.5" sheet.
Was looking at the panels to put on my pontoon boat for decking. So Saturday instead of watching something on netflix I ended up watching about 3 hours of your videos . Love it ..
Tom, I'm doing exactly that. I have 75 mm width second hand styrofoam core cool room panels that I'm in the process of bolting to the deck of a tritoon. I bought 13 panels for $1000 AU. They need a tidy up but should work fine. Hows your build going?
i am wanting to make a slide in bed camper. I want to build (tip out bunks) on the driver and passenger side. With tent canvas. 1 person per side so 33" wide max. By 7 feet long. I like the idea of the honeycomb panels as they are already coated with fiber glass. I was going to use plywood. But not now! Thank you for making this video.
Hi Everlanders!! Hope your camper and travels are going strong this winter...Sorry I had a few more newbie questions (sorry for all these questions!!) Could you explain a little about how the riveting of the exterior panel works? I take it you drilled holes through the outside facing fibreglass skin of the composite panel but I'm guessing you didn't drill all the way through the interior facing fibreglass skin of the composite panel, then you put a rivet through the hole and riveted the panel to the frame. Is that the principle? I How have you found the strength of the riveting bond...You mentioned you filled the rivet holes with sikaflex I'm guessing you did that to prevent water from entering the honeycomb interior of the panel right? Sorry, one last question, did you also use the same process of rivets and sikaflex to attach the interior cabinets, frames, chairs to the fibreglass floor and walls of the camper? If you could shed some light on these it would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance!!
+goandseetv Correct, only the outer fiberglass skin is drilled. The rivets are primarily used as a clamping system as the sikaflex 252 adhesive cures. The glue is much stronger than the rivets. If you Google "Butterfly Rivets" and look in the image section and you can see what I used. Also the rivets leave a small hole in the middle so they are also filled with SikaFlex.
How did you put all the composite panels in place, it seems for a simple box structure that all panels would have 45° angles cut on them, floor would go down easy, walls could be tilted in at the top, bottom edge goes in first then the top of the panel is pushed out to the glue/exo frame... but once you get to the roof how do you install it? Because of the 45° angles the panel would be too big by 2x the panel thickness in each dimension to fit in the hole available. I know you did your roof early on but I believe the issue remains for at least 1 or more of the final panels to be installed. How did you overcome that?
@@Everlanders I don't know if you're joking or if perhaps it was easier for you due to your camper having more open angles and more smaller panels. If we talk about a cuboid shaped exoskeleton camper with 90° corners everywhere and we cut the 2" composite panels with 45° angles on every edge then the floor and roof will install easily but after that when you go to place the first wall panel in place you may be able to slip the lower edge down into place but once you go to tilt the top of the panel in towards the exo frame you'll find that you can't get it to clear the roof panel by 2" as although the face closest to you is the correct length the outside face is too long. I hope I have clarified the situation. Using an endoskeleton would solve this. I notice it appears ambition strikes got around this by just using butt joints. Unicat uses butt joins but this would require some extra processing near the edge to remove the thermal bridge.
@@Everlanders sorry I wasn't trying to be hostile or debate with you I'm genuinely trying to solve the issue I see with this construction technique. I have watched your videos several times and I can't see / understand how you got round the issue. Never mind, enjoy your travels :)
Wow. I am looking into making a campervan conversion. I was doing research on materials regards low weight strong for cabinets and came across your video. Seems there is very little info regards DYI with honeycomb out here. One thing i running to is suppliers and cost vs plywood. Any info. on this you can supply? I would be using mainly material for paneling of the cabinets. Cabinets and drawers main framework will be 80/20.
Cost will be many times more than plywood... If your stuck on using 80/20 just get some 4mm Baltic Birch Ply. It'll just slide into the slots on your extrusion.
very important to stand the gelcoat get 00:53 the adhesive rubber gaskets something to 00:57 stick to and I found the primer just I been back to these build Videos ,I jus way cool to see this happen ,NASA could learn from you . Composite Honeycomb Panels These have got to be tough ,I try to find some here in Florida. 12' I would need help. I like ow you folk did the GELCOAT & ADHSIVE RUBBER GASKETS THEN Primer. . DId you happen to say the expected live cycle of the Composite Honeycomb Panels . I read the transcript ,the cc is not so good it covers the screen.
Oh, I understand the rivets now. Very very cool. Where did you get the inspiration? Are there other youtubers that you watched before embarking on this?
No other RUclipsr before us built such a rig in this way that I know of. We took general inspiration from the size and shape of the Turtle V, we didn't want to be as big, costly or as fragile as an earthromer. Certainly there where many skills I picked up along the way from RUclips, How to TIG weld Aluminum, Rebuild the 7.3L Diesel. We also did alot of non-RUclips research before we started too!
can this be used to build floating cabinet inside the van ? or kitchen sink ? is it much lighter compare to plywood ? and what kind of rivet hole are you using to join the panels ? Wow, so impressive i'm about to build inside of a van , thinking of switch to this rather than wood. ..
The rivets in the composite panels, are they all the way through, or just through the outer layer of fiberglass, and they expand in the honeycomb structure?
No, they only go through the outer skin. In fact they are not even needed, once the adhesive cures they could be removed and filled... We kept them for the aesthetic.
This truck is so cool, that I want to build my own after watching all these videos. Question; Can you add, or attach things to the wall, like furniture... ? Thanks!!
Hi!! Great videos on your rig!! Totally new to this so sorry if these are basic questions. I'm under the impression there are two types of composite panels. One has a type of foam between two thin layers of fibreglass and seem to offer insulation....the second type of panel has a honeycomb structure material between two thin layers of fibreglass. Could you let us know which type of panel you used? If you used the "honeycomb" type, are the honeycomb structures "empty" or hollow and do they offer any kind of insulation? I saw your comments that you can't recommend the panel supplier you used...is it possible to let us know what state/province they are located in so we don't bark up the wrong tree so to speak? Thanks in advance and apologies for all the questions!! Looking forward to watching your other vids on your build and adventures!!
+goandseetv There are three types in fact...PS Foam Core, Honeycomb Core (what we used) and Form Filled Honeycomb. Foam filled Honeycomb is best in my opinion, but hard to find a vendor who deals in smaller volumes as used in trucks like ours. There of code other options like the FM2 boxes from Germany which have aluminum skins, but I think that is outside the scope of a self built rig.
Now that you've used the unit for a few years. How did you find the insulation value of the honeycomb panels? Roughly an R-3 for those panels, I assume. Any frustration with that? Or was it sufficient? Thanks for taking the time, and great job on the vids!
@@Everlanders Ok, great. Thanks for the prompt response! Yep, we have access to that. XPS is what we've been using for a couple years. Just debating the weight savings of the honeycomb, given that it's a little stronger than the foam filled. From a 'mounting things' perspective. Certainly helps getting real world feedback. Hmmmmm.
Sure, VHB might stick it there, but Sikaflex 252 is many, many times stronger, both in tension and shear strength. Heat and chemical resistant... When I spent this much time and effort putting something like this together, I want it to last...
There is no need to be skeptical, 5 years, 4 countries, and 100,000Km later there still isn't a drop of water inside... ruclips.net/video/JHXzmZslSwM/видео.html
Oops sorry left that important detail out. Lets say the bridge is the length and width of the floor of your build. How much would you think it would flex and how much weight would be close to a breaking point?
Thanks for doing the videos. You must have been wiring my brain because I have had this type of box in my head for about 20 years. I got the idea when we built an ice plant in garnet sc, but those panels are 4" thick. Do you have a weight on the box. And how thick are the panels, they look to be 11/2 " pr so and are they aluminum clad honeycombed? Thanks for any info. Finally got my sub to work
Amazing build. Did you have any issue with gaps between your panels on the interior? Is so what did you fill them with or did you place trim over them as you added cabinets?
I can't recommend any panel manufacturer who deals with consumers in small quantities like this, The company I got ours from has asked me to stop referring people to them for projects like this. In the beginning, I really wanted to find a source for foam injected honeycomb. One such maker is RhinoKore, but they would not return my calls.
+Design RSQ No, they are open blind butterflies, and all needed to be filled with Sikaflex afterwards. The rivets are mostly there for clamping force and style points. Once the Sikaflex 252 cures it's "superior to welding or rivets" - I did all 3 :-)
@@Everlanders Awesome Build!!! So did you sleeve the holes in the Panels? Or are they strong enough without that, or did you not go all the way through the panel? It looks like you just go through the aluminum and the outside layer of Fiberglass. The other question I have does it insulate well? I know you couldn't get the foam filled Honey Comb, So I am curious on your thoughts of how it insulated. Thank you in advance. Tried looking at your comments to try and not ask the same question. Keep up the good work!
Yup, you're correct, the rivets just grab the outside layer... They pull it against the 1/8" gasket spacer until the SikaFlex 252 cures, after that they're cosmetic. The air filled honeycomb offers about R7, and it's working well for us.
Eye operation are very serious business I've had three When metal enter my eye. The metal started to rust with in minutes of contact. Immediate Surgery is always required
hhhheeeyyyy - How have you found the thermal conductivity of the Aluminium Honeycomb panels? Being that Aluminium is such a good thermal conductor, and your panels have an aluminium honeycomb internally linking the inside and outside sheets, do you find that they end up transferring quite a bit of heat from outside to inside while in direct sun (which you need for your solar panels)? And then the inverse, have you found in cold climates your diesel heater has to stay on to maintain a good tempurate as the Aluminium acts as a heat sink and draws the heat out? *Or, having rambled all of that, has it not been much of an issue? **OR, has the weight saving of the honeycomb panel vs a more insulated panel, been a valuable trade off? ***OORRRR, "I like aluminium, stop asking questions"
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
You can really see the BEAST come alive as you work Together to complete the composite units....
I think its great to see what you all thought up....and than made it happen, looking back I am sure your both pretty proud of what you have done, where you have been, and all the memories that you're collecting.
Thanks so much! Here is a couple playlists of recently collected memories:
ruclips.net/p/PL0uBLqOOwG8jwUuZxGmuND_bsDm3Z_XK0
ruclips.net/p/PL0uBLqOOwG8gnnxNwvCzV2d5xK1Ctvlj3
Very well done. Clecos are used to help keep panels in place when drilling holes or riveting. I hope this will help any future projects.
Greetings, thanks for the wonderful video. My question is, do those rivets go all the way through the metal frame and the honeycomb paneling out the other side of the opposite side metal frame or do they just go into the metal frame and under the skin of just one side of the honeycomb panel? Also, exactly what type rivets are those and what are the rivets size dimensions??
No, otherwise you'd have rivets all over the inside of the camper... They are called butterfly rivets and they open up inside the panel, pulling the outer skin against the gasket until the SikaFlex 252 cures. After that, they are cosmetic and serve little functional purpose.
@@Everlanders Got It! Thanks!
Thats very cool. An air powered rivet gun. Saves your aching hands. Good job Ms Everlander.
Totally worth every penny... That and the borrowed Milwaukee Caulking Gun, that Sikaflex is nearly impossible by hand.
Where can I buy these panels?? Thanks.
everlanders.com/faq-honeycomb-composite-panel-supplier/
Awesome work! I am always stuck between buying something (that doesn't fit my needs) and making something (that is beyond my skills and budget). I admire your skills AND budget. I'm seeing those honecomb composite panels for no less than $250 for a 4'x8'x1.5" sheet.
triplealley where are you finding these prices?
Was looking at the panels to put on my pontoon boat for decking. So Saturday instead of watching something on netflix I ended up watching about 3 hours of your videos . Love it ..
Thanks Tom! It's amazing what you can get done after canceling a Netflix subscription, I built a truck and now we're traveling the world!
Tom, I'm doing exactly that. I have 75 mm width second hand styrofoam core cool room panels that I'm in the process of bolting to the deck of a tritoon. I bought 13 panels for $1000 AU. They need a tidy up but should work fine. Hows your build going?
@@SwampCityRadio1974 ended up buying 4 sheets of marine grad A A Plywood $205.00 a sheet its floating now
@@SwampCityRadio1974 the problem is you will have to core them because they are hollow I ended up buying AA marine grade plywood 205 a sheet X 4
UGH
i am wanting to make a slide in bed camper.
I want to build (tip out bunks) on the driver and passenger side. With tent canvas. 1 person per side so 33" wide max. By 7 feet long.
I like the idea of the honeycomb panels as they are already coated with fiber glass. I was going to use plywood. But not now!
Thank you for making this video.
The idea of you, is what I think to propose for my project in a FORD F250 4x4, this composite panels are perfect for a quick construction.
addicted to watching you work makes me want to try my hand at something like this :D
Hi Everlanders!! Hope your camper and travels are going strong this winter...Sorry I had a few more newbie questions (sorry for all these questions!!) Could you explain a little about how the riveting of the exterior panel works? I take it you drilled holes through the outside facing fibreglass skin of the composite panel but I'm guessing you didn't drill all the way through the interior facing fibreglass skin of the composite panel, then you put a rivet through the hole and riveted the panel to the frame. Is that the principle? I How have you found the strength of the riveting bond...You mentioned you filled the rivet holes with sikaflex I'm guessing you did that to prevent water from entering the honeycomb interior of the panel right? Sorry, one last question, did you also use the same process of rivets and sikaflex to attach the interior cabinets, frames, chairs to the fibreglass floor and walls of the camper? If you could shed some light on these it would be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance!!
+goandseetv Correct, only the outer fiberglass skin is drilled. The rivets are primarily used as a clamping system as the sikaflex 252 adhesive cures. The glue is much stronger than the rivets. If you Google "Butterfly Rivets" and look in the image section and you can see what I used. Also the rivets leave a small hole in the middle so they are also filled with SikaFlex.
Hi, thanks so much for clarifying that. Have a great holiday season!!
How did you put all the composite panels in place, it seems for a simple box structure that all panels would have 45° angles cut on them, floor would go down easy, walls could be tilted in at the top, bottom edge goes in first then the top of the panel is pushed out to the glue/exo frame... but once you get to the roof how do you install it? Because of the 45° angles the panel would be too big by 2x the panel thickness in each dimension to fit in the hole available. I know you did your roof early on but I believe the issue remains for at least 1 or more of the final panels to be installed. How did you overcome that?
Easy... Floor, Roof, 45°'s, Walls...
(As shown 😄)
@@Everlanders I don't know if you're joking or if perhaps it was easier for you due to your camper having more open angles and more smaller panels. If we talk about a cuboid shaped exoskeleton camper with 90° corners everywhere and we cut the 2" composite panels with 45° angles on every edge then the floor and roof will install easily but after that when you go to place the first wall panel in place you may be able to slip the lower edge down into place but once you go to tilt the top of the panel in towards the exo frame you'll find that you can't get it to clear the roof panel by 2" as although the face closest to you is the correct length the outside face is too long. I hope I have clarified the situation. Using an endoskeleton would solve this. I notice it appears ambition strikes got around this by just using butt joints. Unicat uses butt joins but this would require some extra processing near the edge to remove the thermal bridge.
I wasn't joking and I'm not going to get into long debates with you, I showed exactly how I did it in the videos.
@@Everlanders sorry I wasn't trying to be hostile or debate with you I'm genuinely trying to solve the issue I see with this construction technique. I have watched your videos several times and I can't see / understand how you got round the issue. Never mind, enjoy your travels :)
Wow. I am looking into making a campervan conversion. I was doing research on materials regards low weight strong for cabinets and came across your video. Seems there is very little info regards DYI with honeycomb out here. One thing i running to is suppliers and cost vs plywood. Any info. on this you can supply? I would be using mainly material for paneling of the cabinets. Cabinets and drawers main framework will be 80/20.
Cost will be many times more than plywood... If your stuck on using 80/20 just get some 4mm Baltic Birch Ply. It'll just slide into the slots on your extrusion.
What was the cost of the material for this box?
Woow! What impressive team job, guys!!
very important to stand the gelcoat get
00:53
the adhesive rubber gaskets something to
00:57
stick to and I found the primer just I been back to these build Videos ,I jus way cool to see this happen ,NASA could learn from you . Composite Honeycomb Panels These have got to be tough ,I try to find some here in Florida. 12' I would need help. I like ow you folk did the GELCOAT & ADHSIVE RUBBER GASKETS THEN Primer. . DId you happen to say the expected live cycle of the Composite Honeycomb Panels . I read the transcript ,the cc is not so good it covers the screen.
It’s not clear to me what the blind side of the rivets are gripping onto?
Are they pulling against the skin of the composite panel?
Thanks
Yes, but they are only needed until the SikaFlex cures, after that, they are purely cosmetic.
Everlanders thanks for the reply!
Good work!
Oh, I understand the rivets now. Very very cool. Where did you get the inspiration? Are there other youtubers that you watched before embarking on this?
No other RUclipsr before us built such a rig in this way that I know of. We took general inspiration from the size and shape of the Turtle V, we didn't want to be as big, costly or as fragile as an earthromer. Certainly there where many skills I picked up along the way from RUclips, How to TIG weld Aluminum, Rebuild the 7.3L Diesel. We also did alot of non-RUclips research before we started too!
can this be used to build floating cabinet inside the van ? or kitchen sink ? is it much lighter compare to plywood ?
and what kind of rivet hole are you using to join the panels ?
Wow, so impressive i'm about to build inside of a van , thinking of switch to this rather than wood. ..
It's nearly 2 inches thick and much more expensive... So I don't think it's we'll suited for cabinets.
The rivets in the composite panels, are they all the way through, or just through the outer layer of fiberglass, and they expand in the honeycomb structure?
No, they only go through the outer skin. In fact they are not even needed, once the adhesive cures they could be removed and filled... We kept them for the aesthetic.
This truck is so cool, that I want to build my own after watching all these videos. Question; Can you add, or attach things to the wall, like furniture... ? Thanks!!
We sure did!
How? With screws, or you have some sort of stud, or the wall holds screws without the studs? Thanks!@@Everlanders
The same as the outside... Sikaflex 252 a Aluminum Plate, Square Tube or Strip to the wall and fasten to that.
Thanks!!@@Everlanders
Hi!! Great videos on your rig!! Totally new to this so sorry if these are basic questions. I'm under the impression there are two types of composite panels. One has a type of foam between two thin layers of fibreglass and seem to offer insulation....the second type of panel has a honeycomb structure material between two thin layers of fibreglass. Could you let us know which type of panel you used? If you used the "honeycomb" type, are the honeycomb structures "empty" or hollow and do they offer any kind of insulation?
I saw your comments that you can't recommend the panel supplier you used...is it possible to let us know what state/province they are located in so we don't bark up the wrong tree so to speak? Thanks in advance and apologies for all the questions!! Looking forward to watching your other vids on your build and adventures!!
+goandseetv There are three types in fact...PS Foam Core, Honeycomb Core (what we used) and Form Filled Honeycomb. Foam filled Honeycomb is best in my opinion, but hard to find a vendor who deals in smaller volumes as used in trucks like ours. There of code other options like the FM2 boxes from Germany which have aluminum skins, but I think that is outside the scope of a self built rig.
Ok, thanks for letting us know!! It looks like you're really enjoying your camper in your latest vids!!
@@Everlanders Why did you choose the Honeycomb Core over the more standard Foam Core?
Foam Core failed my stress and delamination testing.
What are the dimensions of the panels and how much are they per panel?
They were custom fabricated to the size required by my CAD drawings, the cost will vary depending on the manufacturer you choose.
@@Everlanders did you do the CAD drawings yourself from design all the way to finishing?
Where did you get the panels? I want to build a tiny house with them!
everlanders.com/faq-honeycomb-composite-panel-supplier/
Now that you've used the unit for a few years. How did you find the insulation value of the honeycomb panels? Roughly an R-3 for those panels, I assume. Any frustration with that? Or was it sufficient? Thanks for taking the time, and great job on the vids!
15 countries later, still great! If you can get foam filled even better.
@@Everlanders Ok, great. Thanks for the prompt response! Yep, we have access to that. XPS is what we've been using for a couple years. Just debating the weight savings of the honeycomb, given that it's a little stronger than the foam filled. From a 'mounting things' perspective. Certainly helps getting real world feedback. Hmmmmm.
I don't mean XPS foam panels... So many of them start delaminating after 5-7 years.... I'm referring to foam filled honeycomb.
@@Everlanders Ahh ok. Makes sense. Thanks.
Why would VHB tape not work?
Sure, VHB might stick it there, but Sikaflex 252 is many, many times stronger, both in tension and shear strength. Heat and chemical resistant... When I spent this much time and effort putting something like this together, I want it to last...
@@Everlanders true! I agree with the Sikaflex. I was wondering why you used rivets instead of VHB tape for the initial stick 😁
1:40 Awe! She's like Rosie the Riveter.
☮️❤️🌈
Ha ha, yes, I love it!
Very cool
How did you get your daughter to help she works like a pro
It's her project, I'm only helping.
@@Everlanders I'll try that great idea make it her project
I’m kinda of skeptical how is it water proof? 🤨
There is no need to be skeptical, 5 years, 4 countries, and 100,000Km later there still isn't a drop of water inside... ruclips.net/video/JHXzmZslSwM/видео.html
Where do you get your honeycomb panels?
everlanders.com/faq-honeycomb-composite-panel-supplier/
How thick and stiff are these panels wall? how much do they flex if you would walk over one that is suspended from the two ends as a "bridge".
The would depend on the length of the bridge and the weight of the person walking.
Oops sorry left that important detail out. Lets say the bridge is the length and width of the floor of your build. How much would you think it would flex and how much weight would be close to a breaking point?
Thanks for doing the videos. You must have been wiring my brain because I have had this type of box in my head for about 20 years. I got the idea when we built an ice plant in garnet sc, but those panels are 4" thick. Do you have a weight on the box. And how thick are the panels, they look to be 11/2 " pr so and are they aluminum clad honeycombed? Thanks for any info. Finally got my sub to work
They are fiberglass clad honeycomb, I didn't want to have problems with radio signals like WiFi and cellular.
Is the SikaFlex the main thing holding the panels to the skeleton? Or the rivets hold it and the SikaFlex just seals it?
The SikaFlex is more than enough to hold them... But the rivets holds everything tightly in place while the SikaFlex cures.
what kind of rivets did you use? And how did the sika 252 work out?
The Sikaflex 252 is still holding strong with no leaks or anything. These are the rivets I used. www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all18183
Everlanders thanks for getting back with me.
What exactly is the material you used for your walls called? And is it something I can get at the local hardware store
The Honeycomb Composite panels were custom built, I've never seen them in a hardware store.
Amazing build. Did you have any issue with gaps between your panels on the interior? Is so what did you fill them with or did you place trim over them as you added cabinets?
There were no gaps, but I did use the strip LED lights to cover the seams... The rest of the interior joints are covered with cabinets.
Where did you get the composite panels?
I can't recommend any panel manufacturer who deals with consumers in small quantities like this, The company I got ours from has asked me to stop referring people to them for projects like this. In the beginning, I really wanted to find a source for foam injected honeycomb. One such maker is RhinoKore, but they would not return my calls.
What composite panels are these?
everlanders.com/faq-honeycomb-composite-panel-supplier/
Those are solid structural rivets? Not open blind?
+Design RSQ No, they are open blind butterflies, and all needed to be filled with Sikaflex afterwards. The rivets are mostly there for clamping force and style points. Once the Sikaflex 252 cures it's "superior to welding or rivets" - I did all 3 :-)
@2:16 "....but when you are a 300lb gorilla you can move it simply enough" Love those little comments sprinkled in your videos.
I love your comments on all my videos!
Love your videos - great teamwork! With the rivets - did you use a washer or something on the back or do they just deform inside the panel?
We use Butterfly Rivets, Also called Tri-Fold rivets... They spit and fold open into three sections for maximum surface area.
@@Everlanders Awesome Build!!! So did you sleeve the holes in the Panels? Or are they strong enough without that, or did you not go all the way through the panel? It looks like you just go through the aluminum and the outside layer of Fiberglass.
The other question I have does it insulate well? I know you couldn't get the foam filled Honey Comb, So I am curious on your thoughts of how it insulated.
Thank you in advance. Tried looking at your comments to try and not ask the same question. Keep up the good work!
Yup, you're correct, the rivets just grab the outside layer... They pull it against the 1/8" gasket spacer until the SikaFlex 252 cures, after that they're cosmetic. The air filled honeycomb offers about R7, and it's working well for us.
Very cool build.
I would have used 3m vhb tape to adhere the panels you wouldn't need any rivets either
+sifterbox VHB would not have worked in this case. In some places the aluminum needed to be pulled to the panel... Maybe in a perfect world.
Safety glasses required when using tools, I saw the end of that rivet go near her eye!
Eye operation are very serious business
I've had three
When metal enter my eye. The metal started to rust with in minutes of contact.
Immediate Surgery is always required
Very cool ☺👍
make another video!!!
+Rowarrior F.G. As you wish!
watched it yesterday! keep up the good work :)
hhhheeeyyyy - How have you found the thermal conductivity of the Aluminium Honeycomb panels? Being that Aluminium is such a good thermal conductor, and your panels have an aluminium honeycomb internally linking the inside and outside sheets, do you find that they end up transferring quite a bit of heat from outside to inside while in direct sun (which you need for your solar panels)?
And then the inverse, have you found in cold climates your diesel heater has to stay on to maintain a good tempurate as the Aluminium acts as a heat sink and draws the heat out?
*Or, having rambled all of that, has it not been much of an issue?
**OR, has the weight saving of the honeycomb panel vs a more insulated panel, been a valuable trade off?
***OORRRR, "I like aluminium, stop asking questions"
There is no aluminum in our panels, I assume it would be very high.
@@Everlanders Oh shoot, sorry, i had it in my head that they were Aluminium Honeycomb panels
If you have something interesting to say- which I think you have - do not distract with music.
I like Music
Where did you source the panels from?
everlanders.com/faq-honeycomb-composite-panel-supplier/