Looking at the shape of the blades on the fan the air is without a doubt suppose to exit on the side with the label as is the case with every other similar fan. I think the person who assembled the printer at the factory reversed the polarity somewhere most likely at the control board or at one of the connectors by putting the positive pin where the ground should be.
Pretty sure the assembly person just did what they are told. Molex connectors are keyed to avoid reversal. So if that's the issue then the board was laid out backwards. If its an assembly error by a person, it more likely just putting the fan on the standoffs backwards.
Most fans nowadays are pwm controlled which eliminates the possibility of that. It's more likely the fan was backwards.also it's dumb to put a fan on standoffs like that. You need a shroud to direct airflow. That's just pulling air from the sides and is likely hardly affecting the block. These guys that make the printer obviously never built any computers because this is absolutely basic airflow management.
that does look to be the case, those fan blade profiles, seem like they should be pulling from the hub side, and blowing through to the label side. Definitely shouldn't be working the other way around.
I just got mine tuned and then I get sent this video, this is a bummer. But im gonna try flipping the fan on mine asap. Sorry your giga need servicing tho, that bites. Already had to replace a PSU on mine!
The cooling of the radiator is going to drop quite a bit, and I'd highly recommend against that! I would say add 2mm to 3mm washers between the radiator and the fan on the radiator. (You could even print and install ABS or ASA spacers) this should effectively eliminate the "Vacuum from the heated bed" effect and still provide effective cooling to the radiator. (Only downside is now you are venting to the heated bed) you might also look to add a thicker fan to assure that in a pull configuration the fan is pulling through enough air to effectively cool the radiator and upper section of the heat brake. Also modification to the toolhead cover to provide an exhaust for the radiator cooler, and designing a shelf to come from the bottom side of the fan to the new exhaust i8n the toolhead cover would likely be the best solution to prevent possibly undesired airflow to the heated bed. Good luck m8.
This is due to crappy wires. My x axis failed, after replacing that line I then started receiving more and more mcu errors. Literally replaced everything above the build plate with wires rated for bending and being placed in a cable chain. Works great now along with a chube and lgx pro
I both do, and don't, agree to a varying agree. Some of the wiring seems really cheap: Like the limit switch wiring. But the head connect cables seem pretty decent especially when they should be carrying a minimal level of DC power. Its weird how the wires appear to have overheated and burned to the point of disintegration: How much current does THAT and why should that much be going to the head in the first place? That much current targeting the heater cartridge would send it to 2500°. I mean... even if I shorted the 24vdc pair that goes to the nozzle heater it shouldn't melt the cable. I'm more inclined to lean into the firmware being the issue. Once, just once, it triggered the out of material routine when one of two spools ran out-and just kept going: The screen said change it, but it never paused. I was told that's a known bug for this machine. Other owners report other random oddities. We all know this 'repeated layer' issue when you change spools. There's some bugs in the firmware to be certain. To me: I'd bet there's some level of bad logic here. It detected inability to cool so it kept ramping up power to get the job done... with no limit. Or some random math issue that made it want to go to 2500 instead of 250 degrees... or... or...
Thank you for the clear video. The maintenance warning is great. I don't have a pet hair issue, but I do a lot of PETG printing, which can be wispy. On the mod, not sure flipping helps? Filament can still get sucked in, but I'm not sure. Would be interested in your experience. I've always wanted to convert the print head into a higher flow but haven't taken it apart yet. I did get a 2nd printhead (for duplication of 1 part as it turns out), so now I can play around!
Agreed. There's a "not sure" factor on that mod for certain. I'm communicating with Elegoo support about that, and am told their engineers are looking forward to receiving my parts. Its an experiment as I said. At the very least it changes the air path from being *directly* straight up to the intake side, to being up/turn/across/turn/up. So hopefully wisps have a harder time pulling up. I'm hoping for a 'path of least resistance' behavior where intake air is straight horizontal through the cage.
Most exciting? One of the best OSG videos out there. Question: Shouldn't pulling the air in from outside instead of from the warm print surface actually increase the cooling and lower that temp a bit? Not sure if that is beneficial or not, since the hot end is in there. The difference could be miniscule. Have you tried this with your working head?
@@GaryTabarJr I haven't powered anything up yet since the incident a couple days ago. Between the actual event, making the video and the Christmas holidays there's been no time.
Yes - flipping the fan is what I suggested as a mod to avoid this problem. But I want to be clear that I haven't tried it yet myself. I pretty clearly said it was a proposed experiment. Wisps with PETG, at high speeds around 300mm/sec, with a 1.0mm nozzle and in a humid climate just tend to be a side effect of life. Also, considering the volume of printing this giant printer has done in a month of around-the-clock printing that's really not much at all. Its only a lot in the context of it all being up in the fan.
I still don't get it that serious makers still use those crappy allen keys. Do yourself a favour and get some with a handle (screw driver style). They are also available with ball heads. 😉
Yep. I've got T-handle... Wera drivers... I just grabbed this pair as they were handy and the lowest common denominator. Basically the same as you get OEM with the printer. People who have better, great. Those that don't aren't put off about doing maintenance because they don't have fancy tools.
Looking at the shape of the blades on the fan the air is without a doubt suppose to exit on the side with the label as is the case with every other similar fan. I think the person who assembled the printer at the factory reversed the polarity somewhere most likely at the control board or at one of the connectors by putting the positive pin where the ground should be.
Pretty sure the assembly person just did what they are told. Molex connectors are keyed to avoid reversal. So if that's the issue then the board was laid out backwards. If its an assembly error by a person, it more likely just putting the fan on the standoffs backwards.
Most fans nowadays are pwm controlled which eliminates the possibility of that. It's more likely the fan was backwards.also it's dumb to put a fan on standoffs like that. You need a shroud to direct airflow. That's just pulling air from the sides and is likely hardly affecting the block. These guys that make the printer obviously never built any computers because this is absolutely basic airflow management.
that does look to be the case, those fan blade profiles, seem like they should be pulling from the hub side, and blowing through to the label side.
Definitely shouldn't be working the other way around.
Thanks for the heads up!
I just got mine tuned and then I get sent this video, this is a bummer. But im gonna try flipping the fan on mine asap. Sorry your giga need servicing tho, that bites. Already had to replace a PSU on mine!
The cooling of the radiator is going to drop quite a bit, and I'd highly recommend against that! I would say add 2mm to 3mm washers between the radiator and the fan on the radiator. (You could even print and install ABS or ASA spacers) this should effectively eliminate the "Vacuum from the heated bed" effect and still provide effective cooling to the radiator. (Only downside is now you are venting to the heated bed) you might also look to add a thicker fan to assure that in a pull configuration the fan is pulling through enough air to effectively cool the radiator and upper section of the heat brake.
Also modification to the toolhead cover to provide an exhaust for the radiator cooler, and designing a shelf to come from the bottom side of the fan to the new exhaust i8n the toolhead cover would likely be the best solution to prevent possibly undesired airflow to the heated bed.
Good luck m8.
This is due to crappy wires. My x axis failed, after replacing that line I then started receiving more and more mcu errors. Literally replaced everything above the build plate with wires rated for bending and being placed in a cable chain. Works great now along with a chube and lgx pro
I both do, and don't, agree to a varying agree. Some of the wiring seems really cheap: Like the limit switch wiring. But the head connect cables seem pretty decent especially when they should be carrying a minimal level of DC power. Its weird how the wires appear to have overheated and burned to the point of disintegration: How much current does THAT and why should that much be going to the head in the first place? That much current targeting the heater cartridge would send it to 2500°. I mean... even if I shorted the 24vdc pair that goes to the nozzle heater it shouldn't melt the cable. I'm more inclined to lean into the firmware being the issue. Once, just once, it triggered the out of material routine when one of two spools ran out-and just kept going: The screen said change it, but it never paused. I was told that's a known bug for this machine. Other owners report other random oddities. We all know this 'repeated layer' issue when you change spools. There's some bugs in the firmware to be certain.
To me: I'd bet there's some level of bad logic here. It detected inability to cool so it kept ramping up power to get the job done... with no limit. Or some random math issue that made it want to go to 2500 instead of 250 degrees... or... or...
Thank you for the clear video. The maintenance warning is great. I don't have a pet hair issue, but I do a lot of PETG printing, which can be wispy. On the mod, not sure flipping helps? Filament can still get sucked in, but I'm not sure. Would be interested in your experience.
I've always wanted to convert the print head into a higher flow but haven't taken it apart yet. I did get a 2nd printhead (for duplication of 1 part as it turns out), so now I can play around!
Agreed. There's a "not sure" factor on that mod for certain. I'm communicating with Elegoo support about that, and am told their engineers are looking forward to receiving my parts. Its an experiment as I said. At the very least it changes the air path from being *directly* straight up to the intake side, to being up/turn/across/turn/up. So hopefully wisps have a harder time pulling up. I'm hoping for a 'path of least resistance' behavior where intake air is straight horizontal through the cage.
Most exciting? One of the best OSG videos out there.
Question: Shouldn't pulling the air in from outside instead of from the warm print surface actually increase the cooling and lower that temp a bit?
Not sure if that is beneficial or not, since the hot end is in there.
The difference could be miniscule.
Have you tried this with your working head?
@@GaryTabarJr I haven't powered anything up yet since the incident a couple days ago. Between the actual event, making the video and the Christmas holidays there's been no time.
Flip the fan just sayin .
Also why your prints so wispy
Yes - flipping the fan is what I suggested as a mod to avoid this problem. But I want to be clear that I haven't tried it yet myself. I pretty clearly said it was a proposed experiment.
Wisps with PETG, at high speeds around 300mm/sec, with a 1.0mm nozzle and in a humid climate just tend to be a side effect of life. Also, considering the volume of printing this giant printer has done in a month of around-the-clock printing that's really not much at all. Its only a lot in the context of it all being up in the fan.
I still don't get it that serious makers still use those crappy allen keys. Do yourself a favour and get some with a handle (screw driver style). They are also available with ball heads. 😉
Yep. I've got T-handle... Wera drivers... I just grabbed this pair as they were handy and the lowest common denominator. Basically the same as you get OEM with the printer. People who have better, great. Those that don't aren't put off about doing maintenance because they don't have fancy tools.