500+hp 351W Stroker Build
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- Опубликовано: 27 ноя 2018
- In this video, we are going to build a 500+hp 351W stroker for our 68 mustang.
We start with the assembly of a bare block fresh from the machine shop.
We will discuss and show;
- The proper prep for the block to ensure there is no debris
- The use of assembly lube
- Sequence for tightening main cap bolts
- Stages of bolt torquing
- how to measure and gap piston rings
- Discuss the optimum placement of the piston ring gaps around the piston
- How to compress the rings while installing the pistons
- Installing head gaskets
- Installing ARP head studs
- Installing intake manifold
- Installing a water pump
Interested in the build sheet? Here it is tinyurl.com/yyzj2sxd
and yes we remove the fram filter once the engine is bolted into place ;)
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I hope this video helped some of you build YOUR engine or give you some courage to try it yourself. It really isn't that hard! here is a link for a video I made which will go through all the parts we used here and why we used them! ruclips.net/video/XorznMfw4pQ/видео.html
Best small block ever along with the 351-C. I've had nothing but great results running SBF!
Agreed!
Wish I'd stroked my Windsor when I dropped it into my '73 302 Torino back in '82. (where was RUclips back then!?) I used the '69 block, flat pistons and heads with exhaust valves from the 460 heads. Loved the "head scratcher" moment at 6:55: "Start in one corner, tap,tap." Brought back the old joke about pissing in the corner of a round room.
they make good power thats for sure.
but sounds like you did what you could at the time to maximize your output aswell.
sure wish i had a 69 block for mine!!
I've found if you slip a 6" long piece of fuel hose over the connecting rod studs before setting the piston in the cylinders, it will 1. keep the threads safe, 2. keep things safe from the threads and 3. guide the connecting rod around the crank. Leaving you free to focus on getting in the hole.
thats a great tip! thanks for sharing! i will try it next time
Learned that 40 years ago but more like 3 inches
@@ryangulley2051 True but I use 6" because it's what I have on hand and been working with for near 60 years.
You Sir, are braver than I choosing to install steel plugs rather than brass plugs!
lol i may regret this one day... but i hope the years of enjoyment would be worth it by that time lol
So glad I found your channel!!! I want to pull my BBF 460 from my 67 Mustang and put in a built 351 just like you did. Thanks Oh,,, thanks so much for the build sheet. Awesome
Glad I could help!
whats the specs on the BB i kind of want one for a project i have on the shelf here
New sub here. Love it. Just finished my 351w build last year and have finally dialed things in. I however did not build the short block and only the top end. Lot of good info here. Thank you for taking the time to film what you did. Would love to see another video sometime of every step you actually take down to tightening each bolt. Good stuff. Looking forward to finally getting into building my own engine from the ground up. Need to get a garage first though. Soon. soon.
Thanks for the sub! we have another 351 we are going to be building shortly for a buddies car.. and plan to do just this!
Excellent! Thanks so much for the attention to detail and "insider tips." Great tutorial. Def. New Subscriber!
thanks for the comments!! glad you enjoyed the video.
subbed due to how thorough you were will be looking through your videos in future
Thanks!!! Got the mustang out for a shake down run today!! had some fuel pressure issues we are sorting out but its VERY strong!!!
Great video man. It gives me the courage to rebuild mine myself.
thanks for the comment! you can do it!!!
Best video on the internet 👌 so we’ll done not too much not too little straight to the point 👍
THANK YOU!
Yessss. Exactly what I needed for my 408 stroker that’s getting under way
Sub’d fa sho fa sho
thanks!! good luck on your build!
same here what heads did you use
Been using fram for 14yrs. No problems
lots of people have good results... i guess its like a ford/chevy/dodge thing... personal preference. i havent had an issue with WIX so its my go too when im running a motor. but i always have a couple FRAM around for build / install type stuff like you see here.
Thanks for the video. You got that cam in well. I use a camshaft install tool for help especially that last cam bearing
thanks sometimes it goes easy.... sometimes you need the tool lol
guess i got lucky on this one!
Nice video guys! I sub'd. I guess I love watching you guys do what I have been doing for almost 30 years! RUclips makes the masses smarter and learn how to be successful for FREE with these types of video posts!
WOW!!! thanks for the amazing comment!!
stay tuned! we have been hard at work at some new content... and we plan to REALLY kick up the size of the builds in 2019!
lots to come!!!
again thanks so much for watching, subbing, and taking the time to comment.
Great video!!
thank alot!!
Just came across your channel and subscribed, great info here, thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the sub! stick around LOTS of stuff coming. i just never have enough time to do as many videos as i would like.
You can put your Cam in before the crank and pistons. makes it easier to guide the cam without hitting the cam bearings. Also faster. Cool video.
Thanks for the tip, glad you enjoyed the video.
Thank you for taking the time to make this
thank you for taking the time to watch it!
everything was done good sept that fram filter its gonna destory them bearings man!
Like i mentioned to a couple other people. I use the cheap fram filters for mock up and when we are ready to fire the car we swap out to a Ford filter.
id rather have something happen to a filter i dont plan to use than one i do :)
thanks for the comment!
Been running fram filters for years on high horsepower motors and haven’t lost a bearing yet?
Great info bro!
glad you enjoyed the video!
Guys. Not to nit pick but if you used ARP Main Stud Kit 154-5409, final torque is 110 ft.lbs, not 90 ft.lbs. Cool stuff guys, keep up the good work.
Appreciate the comment. Built the motor years ago and I'm not sure of the PN so I can't verify whose correct.
but let this be a lesson for anyone watching to double check the mfg instructions!
appreciate the comment and the time to watch!
@@710Garage Cool. I am building a 393W right now, so I'm checking out what my esteemed colleagues have done!😁😄
I wanted a 393 but it was crazy lead times and the 408 was in stock so went to that instead
@@710Garage Guys. I apologize. You are using the DSS stud girdle which requires a different torque value vs. the ARP studs. I tried to find the DSS instructions on line but could not. I'm sure you guys nailed it. Looking forward to more cool stuff from you guys.
Thanks for the great comments.
I appreciate view!
I want to swap my new edge with a 351. I'm slowly researching the build and doesn't sound like a huge project once you build the engine. I subscribed important info here.
It's really not hard to do! And depending what power levels you are after it could be pretty easy!
Haha for me though, setting the rockers up and TDC on the cam is the part I struggle with the most! Great vid
thats coming in the new video!! its way way easier than people seem to make it!!
we got our timing set up video up and ready...
hopefully that helps!
Such an underrated motor, not with enthusiasts but the factory.
It’s a shame they weren’t used in the numbers the 350 Chevy was
you're not lying!!! i LOVE these things!
I did that on my Harley Davidson, I didn't use a grinder,a good mil file did the job.When I measured the bore I kept getting.005 larger than the book said,then I found the .005+ on the Piston.The bore still had the factory hone marks.The rings were wore because of the carbon on the Piston was in the center and not on the edges. The guy that had it before me added an S&S carb and was running it too rich causing a massive carbon build up on the head which raised the compression causing the head gasket to fail.
I have 2 ,351who 345 hp factory.
anything for you
did you balance the rotating assembly? be sure to use an arp oil pump drive especially important if you ever run 20w-50oil. I used those scorpion roller rockers on the last three I built . they work great on 3/8th screw in studs
thanks for the tips. Yes it was 0 balanced, and has an arp drive for sure. thats cheap insurance i do on every build
Love the build but you left out a few steps on the shortblock like checking the thrust bearing clearance and at least 1/4 of a inch clearance between the oil pump pickup and the pan. Also did u check bearing clearance?
i did these checks yes but the footage wasnt ideal ( lighting etc ) so i left them out of the video.
Installing the rear main seal when your installing the crank and caps is much more easy.
you're not wrong i just always have done it this way so habit takes over sometimes.
thanks for the comment!
where is that thermostat housing from? thats actually really neat! ive never seen that style before, especially without the bypass like that.
amazon piece
Great video and thanks. Working on a 351w build also. What heads did you use?
THANKS!!!
we are running dart pro 1s on this setup.
great question.
stay tuned we are just editing the engine build video now, which will go through ever part of the build, part numbers, why we used them, etc.
hopefully this week that will be done.
I have a set of TFS R heads on my 410 CID Windsor.You need to buy some good heads for the big stroke engines.Shooting for 550+ HP on pump gas⛽
I'd like to build one for my '85 f150 4x4. You think the C6 can handle it?
in stock form not really.... but some simple upgrades would allow it to handle everything you have!
Subbed. Like your detail in videos
Thanks for the comment and glad you enjoy the series!!
@@710Garage I just got a mud truck with my son but the motor has a cracked block. It is a 351C so we will be switching everything over to a new block over winter and am considering stroking it at the same time. It was running 456hp before getting new piston and rings. Then the block split.
sounds like you have the the right idea!! maybe a girdle setup will help from the splitting.
@@710Garage it has a girdle and studs. I believe the other owner was running a 200 shot ontop of it all. So I'm thinking that could have split the block? Your opinion? The truck was a proven class winner but I'm not sure if I want the same pattern if the extra nitrous is going to do that alot
The 200 shot could have done it for sure. what year was the block used? and was it bored over at all?
what internals did it have?
im wondering if it got some harmonics and that led to the block splitting.
I know you guys built this motor to be booted, would you guys recommend the fuel injection system you guys chose for a n/a setup or would you recommend a different fuel injection system? Cause I was gonna use the build sheet you guys listed but keep it n/a for a while
Do it!!! We did the same :)
Do you recommend cleaning with brake cleaner prior to assembly? Wow I totally missed when the main girdle was installed🤔
we clean with lacquer thinner prior to assembly.
brake clean works too, i just use lacquer thinner on mine.
the main girdle stuff was shot, but we were not happy with it so it was left out. ( we did toss it into the recommended parts video as a blooper )
710 Garage 10-4 I saw it on the later video. I’m buying the same one
Thanks for your videos. I have a 351 Windsor 5.8 and it's only running in 4 cylinders. Looking on the distributor top the # 1 no working, 3 yes, 7 no, 2 yes, 6 no, 5 yes, 4 no, 8 yes. I have the correct firing order but I can remove the 4 wire plugs for the 1-7-6-4 and still running good, but when I put it on drive it doesn't has any power the all. Any ideas? Thanks.
if its only running on 4 cylinders that is the problem for sure...
i cant quite understand why it is though... if its firing on the 4 that means the coil is working properly.
have you tried replacing the distributor cap and rotor?
also what about the spark plug wires and plugs?
you NEED it to run on all 8 before you can try driving it.
Thanks for the comment! lets get this figured out!
Is it possible that the 351w you have may have been in a air compressor. As in the past the military and. Few other companies produced air compressors out of a few different v8 engines that would run fine on 4 cylinders. And produce air pressure with the others.
What year block are you using, I'm trying to figure out what the internals are on my friend's 93 Lightning? The only thing I know is the pistons are hypereutectic, but as far as the crank and rods I'm not sure. If the crank is nodular iron we should be ok to CAM it and port the heads and tune it on 93. See if we can pick up another 100 ft-lbs of torque.
mine is a 74 block.
you should be fine doing those upgrades to your motor. just stay safe with the tune and you wont have any issues.
good luck. check back in and let us know what parts you decide to go with!
What heads you guys have on this 408 stroker
The heads are Dart Pro 1 CNC heads. Have a look in the description, there is a link to the build sheet with all the parts, numbers, etc.
The headers look interesting but I cannot find any mention of what brand/type they are. Please let me know. Thanks.
Hedman headers. I don't have a PN unfortunately
you set the cam without cam wheels.?? it's okay to do it that way. I want to turn my 351 to a 427. how do i do that.
ya i cheated a bit you are right.
to do that you would need a dart block so you can get the bore needed.
thanks for the view and comment!
my 408w is getting under way, and i’ve spent nearly $5k on just the bottom end to make sure i can reach my power level goals. would you think that 800-900 is possible w around 14 psi of boost? and are clearance notches on the bottom of the bores necessary for a stroker rod?
yes notching the block will be needed.
what is the compression ratio are you running? and what did you purchase so far?
Man…at what point are you better off just building a turbo 5.3? What did you do to the bottom end that costs 5k?
i heard them say they had it bored over. bored over what exactly?
the cylinder bore ( where the piston goes ) we went 0.030" oversize from stock
Aaaaaah all that good work only to put a Fram oil filter on it
its only a mock up filter ;) we use a cheap filter while building and installing just incase we hit it or something...
then swap them out for a ford filter.
Nice build This motor makes 500ish all motor?
Thanks and yes sir it does
Is it cheaper to build a 351 than to build a healthy FE?? I can’t decide whether to make a nice FE390 with 420HP or so...or do a 427 small block with the 351. I got a sweet little 66 Ford truck that I want to make a nice street cruise. 420hp is plenty for me. I like the idea of a FE big block like the 390 but a 427 small block sounds very appealing as well. I like the idea of a 427 emblem on the truck 😎
to make only 420 hp you dont need to waste all of the money on going a big 427.
to run that it, you will need a dart block.
you can run a simple heads, cam , intake and make well over those power levels.
What brand lifters you use?
we run ERSON always!
i will have a video up shortly with all of the parts used as it is getting alot of questions!
How much stroke? 3.375"? What brand and length of rod? Are they 351W diameter or SBC?
Hi James, Please have a look at our build sheet. tinyurl.com/yyzj2sxd
I never rebuilt one so I may be wrong don't u put assembly lube on cam lobes too I am getting ready to re build a 1971 _351 w. For my 1980 Merc.capri
absolutely you want to put lube on everything. we only did the bearings as we always prime our motors using an oil pump drive and a drill.. so it lubes up the lobes well before we start. also the cam and lifters were used together prior so we marked the locations and re assembled the same.
Do your engine a favor and trash that fram oil filter because they are trash. Put a wix puralator or anything else. Fram has cardboard end plates in them that collapse and will starve your engine of oil. We tested several fram was the worst.
Appreciate the comment, BUT we always toss a fram on it while building and installing incase we hit it installing the engine.
before fire up we swap the filter out for a ford original unit.
I use a Fram filter on a new motor only for the break in run. After changing the break in oil, I install a good Purolator or Motorcraft filter.
use a Wix R, right now I'm using a purolator BOSS. #30001 I believe. Like those Mahle pistons but they did not have a 4.060 bore for my stroker. went with SRP forged.
@@dufus2273 those are still great pistons though... sounds like you have a great build aswell.
i lost an engine one time due to using a fram and thats all it took foe me never again . the gauge still was showing oil pressure but no oil was passing thought the filter . when i pulled the filter maybe a table spoons worth of oil came out of it
Looks like this is the first in the ' 351 Stroker ..' build, but what was the 'stroker' part? Confused...What parts, pistons, rod choice, head choice, desired compression ratio, etc...
DIDI YOU KNOTCH THE BOTTOM OF THE CYLINDER FOR ROD CLEARANCE
yes i did.
i just spun the crank until it was close, marked the cylinder. removed the crank and rod and with a carbide burr clearanced it.
then tried again until they all cleared.
Why is it that everyone of these build I see the crank is installed prior to the cam? I like to install the cam first with the block upside down, that way I can guide the cam using BOTH hands all the way through.
your way works 100% i just always done it this way.
550 naturally aspirated? what cam specs? maybe with a Super Charger or twin turbos. My guess would be closer to 440 HP.
500 crank I'm guessing
hopefully both of you are wrong.... we are pretty confident on the 540ish mark.
what are you building? 393,408.427? What's the bore? Lotta info missing. what's the compression ratio, compression height?Those look like Mahle pistons. I wanted to use those but Mahle didn't have any that were 60 thou. over so I went with SRP in my 398ci Windsor. dynoed at 498 hp.
there is a full pdf with all details in the description.
What camshaft did you use.... spec?
its a comp cam unit.. i will have to dig out the cam card for the specs.
i plan to do a video regarding all the parts i used, things i liked, and didnt like etc aswell
Does the oil ring need to be gapped?
no just drop it in and go!
What stroker kit did you use
The stroker kit is an Eagle part number 16124.
What lower intake is that
victor JR
Can you tell me if a 351w roller block with a edelbrock air gap intake will fit in a 68 mustang stock hood?
I'm not sure about each intake. But my 351w with a vic jr did not. Even with lowering mounts, and shaving the intake down my elbow on top was still 0.5 inches high.
with a super super slim air filter it may but not with my setup.
hope that helps!
@@710Garage thanks
What heads did you use
dart pro 1s
Is that all OE block? Is it still in one piece now that you've had time to run it? OE 351 blocks will break the #3 main journal up to the cam journal when you put big power to them. The 302 block is much stronger. If you want the large displacement you'll want a Dart 351 SHP block for your build. Good thing is that when the block breaks it usually will tell you before doing damage to your other components.
i think you're mistaken. the 302 blocks crack and the 351 are much stronger... there are ALOT of guys making the power we are on a stock block out there.
unless you go iron eagle block or billet the added strength isnt significant enough to warrant the price in my opinion.
stay tuned i suppose and see what happens!
No sir....not mistaken I assure you. The tall deck Windsor will break at the #3 main journal.
Fram filter?
always for build / installing... then i swap for a WIX
walking those rings on the Pistons with bare fingers made me cringe! what about checking the thrust bearing or crankshaft endplay? seems your covering alot of other things but these important steps were excluded... great video still tho.
i did the steps you mentioned but the lighting on the video wasnt ideal so we excluded those portions.
thanks for the comment!
What transmission
tko900
Good job!!! But the second I saw that fram oil filter I freaked out! It's Purolator guy, trust me! Frams always leaked down oh so quick compared to a purolator oil filter. Every time I use a fram filter my engine goes tick tick tick on startup because the oil filter leaked out! Don't happen with my purolators! Better yet get a royal purple!
Thanks for watching and commenting. I always install with a Fram since they are super cheap incase there is a mistake and I hit the oil filter or anything on install and swap out once installed and I'm ready to fire.
soon as you touch something that was cleaned with are hands, it will put sweat on that are metal and cause a rust spot. and some cleaners leave a film. if it does oil cant do its job so alcohol or acetone or mek usually and gloves,
MEK is too powerful i wouldnt recommend it for daily use on when absolutely needed. Cancer is too much of a problem these days. Acetone and Isopropyl alc is good enough.
these are good suggestions. and you are not wrong. this is just the way i do it always.
When installing piston rings PLEASE for the love of god to not just snap the ring in. They could scratch the side of your pistons pull them out slightly and set them in softly. Everything else was perfect! Great video!
Good tip!
I gotta find a Windsor block to turn into a clevor. I bought a 71 mustang and unfortunately seems the Cleveland it came with got replaced by a 351m which doesn’t like high rpm.
clevor's are cool. i do want to build one, one day.
710 Garage I’ve gotten the car moving with nothing to do with quarantine and all. I’ve found a shop to do the body work and paint. I guess that gives me time to find a block to build up.
thats perfect then.. sometimes things happen for a reason lol
@@Bonanzaking i. Building a tim myer 446 stroker 351m. It'll spin 7k+. The modified is a tall deck cleavland. If you can't find a good replacement motor then give tim a call and he can get you set up with a good combo from mild to wild and make that 351m sing
What’s the bore and stroke ?
4.030 bore 4.000 stroke
by any chance do you know how much you spend on this motor
im not exactly sure. if i had to guess it would be around 8k.
Im trying to source 2 bolt main caps for my 351 but it seems impossible to find 2 bolt main caps. If anyone has any they would ship i will buy or any advice on an alternative lmk.
I don't have any, but on my next trip to the machine shop I will ask him.
I'll also pin this comment for you in hopes someone can assist!
@@710Garage Much appreciated 🙏
Nice work ! Would that be a 396 cubic inch with the stroker ? We are finishing up a 351W project now so your video was very helpful .
this one is a 408. i was planning to do a 393 but there were no kits available for multiple weeks so since the 408 was on the shelf we went with that instead.
glad the video helped you on your build!
@@710Garage I like it ! Our 351W was bored .060 over so it's around 362 cubic inch now . I was also looking at some of the stroker kits but was not sure if they would work with our pistons ?
@@cranerigging3604 60 over is not super common so the problem would be a piston combo.
im sure someone like eagle has something in their toolbox that could help you out.
might be worth a call and see what they have to offer
@@710Garage Thank you ! Yes , I was sure surprised when we pulled the heads on the 351W and saw the .060 on top of the piston . Did you go with a centrifugal style blower on your engine ?
yes novi 2000. main goal was to maintain a stock hood. so that was the only option unless i wanted to run a turbo
Do you have a parts list that I am missing I'm building a 69 notch back Fairlane that's the kind of power I want I would love to have a parts list
Yes there is a download able pdf with all the parts
in the suggested parts video in this series :)
hope that helpes
could i use a regular 351 5.8 from a f150? I have a 1992 sitting in the yard with a 302 5.0 in it. its carburated and the 5.8 351 has fuel injection. think i could make it work with you parts that you used?
the 351w or the 302 will work.
you just cant swap intakes off of them due to deck height the 302 wont come close to bolting up.
stuff like cylinder heads, water pump, alternator etc would work though
710 Garage also what’s a good price range for heads?
710 Garage I’m thinking about a street build with 500 horsepower 351.
literally whatever budget you can manage is better than stock.
mind you you can spend 1500-9000 on heads...
my heads are really nice units, trick flow makes some great ones, edelbrock...
DO YOURSELF A FAVOR and stay away from the pro comp cheapy heads anything 0-1500 i would be scared of.
but like i said the best bang for your buck will be heads for sure.
i want to rebuild my husbands 351 w for him any kind of way you could give me a price on it with shipping
Thanks for the question Amber Marie. There are a number of questions that need to be answered. For example; What is the condition of the existing engine? What is the desired horsepower? Depending on those answers you may choose to reuse some components like the cylinder heads or you may decide to replace these parts. We would be happy to help you navigate these questions and assist with choices. If you would like to carry on this conversation please send us a PM on Facebook. We look forward to helping you if we can. facebook.com/Official710Garage/
Great wife!!
Can anyone tell me the difference in a 302 and a 302HO
- HO 5.0 came with 225 HP non HO 5.0 had 150 HP
- HO have E7 heads, non HO use the E6 heads.
- HO have forged psistons with valve reliefs, non HO are cast and flat top
- HO has a hotter cam than the non HO. Some non HO are flat tappet cams.
- All HOs have a roller timing chain while pre 1988 non HO do not
- HO motors have 19# injectors, non HO use14#
- The HO upper Intake and throttle body opening 58MM vs non HO 50MM
- HO have ss headers, NON HO 5.0 has cast iron exhaust manifolds
Ref: www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/302-vs-302-h-o.888026/
A 302ho. Uses a 351w camshaft changing the firing order to take the load off the left and right front pistons
what rotating assembly for a 351 Cleveland .30 over forged ?
what comp ratio, what heads, budget?
710 Garage well he wants a street and Streep what’s something that he can use nitrous or boost
Stock heads and I really don’t know he’s budget. But I know for sure it’s not crazy hi..
nitrous and boost are totally different, you want low compression for boost and high comp for nitrous.
i think to start you should figure out your power goals and which direction you would like to go in, before spending a bunch on money on parts that may not work best later on.
Were the crank bearing clearance checked at the machine shop?
i checked them, the footage was not ideal so we decided to leave it out. i am building another 351w shortly and we will go over a couple things the footage either wasnt good or were left out of this video.
good catch!
@@710Garage I want to do something similar for my 93 Bronco. I want the low end torque of a stroker. I remember using plastigauge on some early builds. I don't need a forged crank or h-beams. Hopefully I get another couple years out of my 351. Just blew up my E4OD.
yup i checked my bore gauge with the old plasti gauge method on this motor. still works good.
if you are staying N/A you wont need all the forged stuff like i did. just keep that compression 10+ and you will be ok!
Did you ever actually dyno this engine just to see what actual HP and TQ it made?
well this may sounds like a bunch of BS but hear me out...
the last couple of years have been crazy for me.
new day job
new house
selling old house
building the new shop
twins arrived
and COVID...
so i havent gotten it there yet... BUT we are getting much closer. im filming some of the final things we need to do to this car now so that we can get to the dyno and tune it properly but it for sure has been on the back burner with everything else going on.
i apologize to the fans and the people watching for the timely delay but we will get there and be sure to bring you along!
@@710Garage Hey no problem I understand. I was curious because I purchased a 1969 351W a week ago for a 550-600HP engine build for my 68 Mustang fastback. Not sure if I will go naturally aspirated or add boost.
Do the Pistons come with a info card that tells you that you need to grind the piston ring to 26 thousands of an inch?
That Gap will change if you're running boost or nos. Also if you're NA. So no they don't give you an exact. But you can call the manufacturer and they can help guide you
@@710Garage I have been trying to find the exact same rotating assembly as you but everywhere is out of stock and on back order. Is there any other way I can get the same rotating assembly?
You could buy my motor if you wanted? Lol
@@710Garage I'm trying to build it my self lol thanks for offering tho. What other rotating assembly would you recommend thats strong enough to hold 700-800hp
Can you find a 393 setup?
Wht kind of plate was that on top of crank
DSS main support system. it fit amazingly!!!
dssracing.com/D_S_S_Main_Support_System_s/6.htm
that is the link to them!
Engine Builders refer to it as a main girdle. it strengthens the bottom end up by about 40% on average. DSS makes one out of aluminum, but I prefer the Canton, its made out of tool steel. super strong. Canton also make a windage tray that attaches to the Main Girdle. that allows a gain of about 12 HP by keeping oil off the Crank counter weights.
the DSS has the same windage tray. its preference on which brand kind of like ford or chevy.
I think I’ll just get a short block from chp
which is always another option.... but if i did that i couldnt have made a video!! lol
Chp....... DSS is much better.
What year is the block from…69?
this is a 71 block i used.
What year block is this? And what’s the max hp you’re gonna push through this engine?
this is a 84 block, and im pushing about 1000 crank HP through it. ive seen 1154 through a STOCK block and crank before.
so im right at the limit but with 99.9% street driving it wouldnt be there all the time like a racecar.
@@710Garage holy shit.
i suppose its all fun until it breaks lol
@@710Garage whatever happens document it, I eat this shit up!!
thanks for the comments and the views... i will for sure admit when it breaks even if its my fault... lol hopefully it doesnt but IF IT DID..... lol
With that 0.26, no boost right?
oh its getting boost!! and a good amount of it.
@@710Garage what exactly is the first and second ring gapped to?
@@hedgepethracing9590 0.026
What's typical machine cost on blocks
depends on location etc... and what all you are doing... obviously added services increase costs. im about 800 into machining this setup.
@@710Garage ok cool ty for reply
The installation of the rings is not critical, just make sure the end gaps don't line up. did you know that when the engine is running, the rings actually spin around the outside of the piston in the groove? I've heard engine assemblers say that ring gap spacing is critical, well, hate to say, it's not.
while there are TONS of theories on each of the things you mention, this is the way i do it... EVERYTIME...
the same thing can be said for most anything in life.... cutting your grass, to how often to change your oil...
i appreciate your opinion and thank you for sharing.
The rings don't spin.
Yea... If their uncomfortable doing a timing cover or intake then they have no business trying to do rings and pistons lol.
I do prefer a machine shop to do the rotating assy and cam journals. Not much extra if you're having the block prepped. I guess if you're not taking it to a machine shop and just honing the cylinders ok to do your self. Actually I might have to my self. I want to put new rings in a gap them for boost. (351 Cleveland) I am hoping 7-9 lbs will be ok on stock gap, but will want more boost later.
the problem with boost is its fair too easy to turn it up!! lol you start with 8... then 15..... then 20..... and before you know it your stuff is all scattered lol
open that gap!
@@710Garage lol yea, that can sure enough happen.
I had a 300zx twin turbo. Factory boost was 9. Add ons and tuned it was 15-16. 17 is where the injectors ran out.
I'm not going to use a boost controller. Just stock waste gate pressure. Some are 7, some are 9.
I think my biggest problem is going to be not blowing up other parts on the car. That motor with boost will be enough to break everything in the drive train. Everything should be ok to 1k hp, except maybe transmission. FMX is tough, dunno how tough. Don't think any one knows. I have a 4 speed on stand by if I need it.
It's a 73 mustang. I can actually hide the turbos and piping. vent blow off valve back to intake so you don't hear it. Small turbo's won't be heard over exhaust. Should be a great sleeper.
@@starbattles1 im excited for this one. keep us up to date with info!
Cool man . What’s the cubic inches ?
408 cubic inches, a 16% increase!
710 Garage nice ! Have you had trouble with the rear main seal leaking ?
its a 351 they ALL leak lol
that and my oil pan has a small leak in one of the factory welds.
it sucks but i just keep a tray under it.
710 Garage that sucks I wish they wouldn’t leak so often . That’s one nice thing about the LS , they don’t have that issue I don’t think
ya its not ideal. but ive learned to accept it.
im not an LS fanboy. i do appreciate what they are capable of. BUT am sick of the LS the world crap so cant do it.
Guys, invest in some good bluetooth mics. Overall good video.
We have some now. Sorry starting out offended you lol
@@710Garage Sorry you took it that way. Just trying to help out another RUclips newbie. I’m learning too. You want to see bad, look at one of mine. 😀
haha we all start somewhere! just try and get 1% better each video :)
that milodon pan cost me an engine rebuild. The bottom of the pan shattered like glass. No impact ever touched it.Nothing. Metal fatigue and too thin of a metal. Cracked like a spiderweb and lost all the oil. Right below the pickup tube extension, Never use another one. ever. not in my shop. Trash that fram filter. get one that'll hold 80-90psi cold 20w-50 R oil. Looking good. would be curious what it dynos at.
ive used them in the past alot and never had an issue... not saying any company is perfect... but maybe you got a dud???
what pan did you swap out to and how did you like it?
also like i mentioned to a couple other posters.... i use the frams just to put the engine in the car, and fit headers etc... that way nothing happens to my motorcraft ( ford ) filters that i run
@@710Garage I am building a 302 stroked out to 331, and I am using a canton girdle and large capacity oil pan.
You didn’t check any bottom end clearances
The footage was not up to par so we decided to cut it out. it will be added to the next engine build video. thanks for the comment!
How reliable is that engine? Do you feel comfortable using it as a daily driver?
would have no issue using it as a DD.. i however dont. if i was planning on that i would drop boost down a bit since 16-18 is a bit high for daily use.
One thing I noticed you said you were building a stroker yet you didn't say how big the stroke you didn't give cam specs you didn't give what type of intake you're using you didn't explain what size carburetor etc etc etc also you better get rid of that Fram filter if you're going to do anything with that motor!
well this video isnt to tell you how to chose the size of a motor....
there is another video that i have ( 351w stroker - suggested parts ruclips.net/video/XorznMfw4pQ/видео.html )
which has a PDF page to go over all the specs of my build.
and as far as your comment about the fram filter, please review the comments and description of the video here as i mention that i always put a fram filter on while putting a motor into the chassis. infact this filter has been used more than once for this. so that if i hit it with a bar trying to push the motor to 1 side, or anything happens i dont have to worry about it. its part of my process. i use WIX filters while running or driving
glad you watched the whole video, and thanks for the comments!
have a great day!
How much was all the honing and boring
What crank did you use
we have an entire video about what parts we used including part numbers and everything.... please see the link below.
ruclips.net/video/XorznMfw4pQ/видео.html
this will go over everything we used and why.
our machining bill was around 700 bucks..
that included:
cleaning the block first of all
line honing
square decking
installing new cam bearings
installing new freeze plugs ( frost plugs or core plugs )
clearancing the block for the stroker crank
de burring the block for oil flow
checking end play for the crank
and checking bearing clearances.
so all in all i think it was MORE than a fair price for everything done..
That’s pretty good I’m doing about the same thing just not boring out my block just a stroker crank with cam and high rise intake and carb
sounds like it will be a stout little combo. what compression are you going to run and what heads?
You didn't show cam timing.... what's up with that?
Its installed straight up. nothing special here.
@@710Garage ok cool. Timing Markings and covers? I got mine in pieces and need to see where they all go
there is a timing mark on both of the gears just have those pointing at eachother and that is straight up 0 advance.
the cover just bolts onto the front of the block and there are a 4 that go up through the oil pan to hold the cover on.
@@710Garage awesome thanks allot bro👊🏻
Way easier to install the camshaft before installing the crankshaft.
ill try that way on the next one. this is always how ive done them
Did you measure rod and main clearance? Didn't hear you mention it. Wouldn't want your viewers to think it's okay too just slap it together.
I assume you are asking if we measured the bearing clearance. Yes, all clearances were all checked, unfortunately the quality of the video wasn't very good so this was omitted from the video. No one should ever slap an engine together.
@@710Garage I'm sorry but you spoke like this was a tutorial so others could build their engines. I'm just saying if you leave critical steps out then so will they. They are going to do what they see you do. Could be real bad. Show them the right way or not at all.
Make a video and post it for the public to view.. i'm sure someone will chime in on something you missed or didn't do well enough either...
we appreciate your comment, if you subscribe and hit the notifications buttons you can be the first to critic the videos in the future!
Did you degree the cam or install it straight up? Are you using solid lifters,roller lifters, hydraulic? What kind of heads are they? Do you plan on using a engine or chassis dyno to tune it and find out out put numbers? Call me sub #74!!
- its installed straight up as its only a fun street car.
- hyd roller lifters in this motor for super easy, low maintenance.
- they are Dart pro 1 heads that have been leaned on a bit ;)
-it will end up on a chassis dyno for the final tune. engine dyno's are awesome but its alot easier for us to throw it on a chassis dyno so thats our plan.
THANKS FOR THE questions Sub #74! lol
if we can assist let us know!
MAINS ON A WINDSOR SHOULD BE 105 LBS
thanks for the comment. i guess i misspoke i apologize!