cbm80amiga. I think you have confused a lot of people with your comment. For the 2 test modes, *normal* and *fast,* the LCD does _not show_ the discharge current. It only shows the charge current, which you can choose, and which are adjusted to be what you have chosen (I presume). The charge current you have chosen will be the charge current that gets shown. When you choose the charge current, the unit will then automatically pick a discharge current, depending on which charge current you've chosen. The discharge current will simply not be shown on the LCD. If you choose a charge current of 300ma or 500, the discharge current will be 250. If you choose a charge current of 700 or 1000, the discharge current will be 500. Perhaps you may think you said the same thing as I did, but you did not. You said the "discharge currents are different than shown on the LCD." That implies that the discharge currents are shown on the LCD. But the discharge currents are _not_ shown on the LCD. You said "for the 2 lowest settings 'it' is 250mA...." Here you did not make it clear which current the pronoun _it_ refers to, the charge current or the discharge current. For the 2 lowest _charge current settings_ the _discharge_ current will be 250mA.
Good video. Some croppy-looking solder joints! Not good flow. A good joint, where the solder was completely melted before it solidified again, should look shiny. In order to be sure you have a good, low-resistance connection, that stays low resistance over time, you must make sure the solder completely melts before it solidifies, which will make sure that it flows into all the nooks and crannies where it needs to go, to make good electrical contact between the parts that it holds together. I learned this the hard way when my supervisor chastised me for not making all my solder joints as good as he wanted. I was fortunate to work for a company, for a short time at least, where they cared about the quality and long-term service of their product. Eventually they fired me for some other reason. I can't remember what it was. I think my supervisor just didn't like me. Maybe I looked a bit like some uncle, or cousin, that he never got along with.
I can usually run the NOR test on 18650's which takes between 5-9 hours, for charge frome current state to full, then discharge (tracking the mAH), then charge to full again.
For an AAA-cell 300mA is far too much! You will definetly damage it! It seems it doesn't recognize the cell type (capacity) and adjusts the charge current accordingly?
@mark pilzar.. mine battery charger work normal for few minute and after that remain led on at slot 2 and i cannot switch it to slot 1,3,4 any idea please help i use fresh batteries.??
hello sir. not a techie guy, need a plug and play type that can determine the voltage and charge it accordingly. mains are a plus. confused between nitecore i4/D4, liitokala engineer lii-500, xtar VC4/X4. Any suggestion which is better among them for you. thank you sir.
Cau diky tvemu videu jsem se rozhodoval mezi Opus 3100 a LitoKala Engineer Lii500 vyhrala ta druhá ohledně ceny a vykonu ješte diky testu Ruského itubera Admiral 134.Dnes mi LITOKALA Lii500 přišla..
HealthSupercharger hi, indeed only 2 26650 fit in at a time. unfortunately yes... but this usually happens with many charges. (in the Liitokala lii-202 you can actually fit 2 26650's in with no issues) make sure you have rechargeable C cells!
Hi, thank you for the review. I got myself Liitokala Lii - 500 and the charger sparks while I'm injecting it into the wall. I noticed that one pin of the plug is slightly corroded. Could that be a reason?
hey? just wanna ask... when you charge a li-oin battery (3.7V 3200MA) do the battery's temperature rise? in the sense that you can be burnt? And on the Nor test... is there a situation where the voltage stops at 4.22V and last for morthan 45-2 hours??? please reply i need some answers...
Leurie John Ramos hot? not really unless you have a crappy cheap cell, they might get slightly warmer, but not hot. depending on the cell the voltage drops after some time of nor testing, not sure why, maybe the charger uses a bit of the power thanks for your question best Regards
hello I'm from Brazil How do I understand the speech? I'm sending a written question. After all, what is the difference between charger, fast test and nor test? Charger will charge the battery and at the end will show the nmh value that was charged, is it? What about fast and nor test? will do what? test and show the same value of nmh that I would see if the charger is used. So I can not understand the difference at all. Why and when to use each of the three?
Here's an example of all 3 modes using a battery with 1000 mAh capacity that is half full. Charge: Battery will be fully charged and display that 550 mAh went into it. Fast Test:: Battery will be discharged, then charged up and display 1100 mAh for what went into it. Nor Test: (what most people use) The battery will get fully charged, then discharged and show the 1000 mAh that was pulled out of it, then fully charged again. In all cases you end with a fully charged battery. I stated the mAh on the charge side as higher than the discharge because it's possible that it measures some of the losses that go into charging, like heat due to internal resistance of the battery. Most people want to know what can be discharged from the battery, since that is what matters when you are using it. A battery that has a high level of self discharge/drain will take a lot of mAh to charge up, but have much smaller capacity available during discharge. I hope this helps.
I test around 1000 cells(2150ma), the result around 120 of them where below 1000mA, I was thinking this are trash. For some reason I check these cell again and some of them keep below 1000ma but another ones where around 2000mA, do you think I'm doing something wrong.
Did you notice during the not test mode that the batteries don't get fully charged at the end? Any idea why? they all seemed to be charged to 3.88ish volts instead of 4.2v
Kold mine get charged all the way to 4.2v it just takes time, first it discharges them all the way and then charges them back up to 4.2v (I am sure of that). Although on a 2000mA battery for examle this process may take 8 hours or more depending on the current setting
with "Nor test" mode I all of my batteries have been getting between 1800-2100mAh but then on the last charging cycle they all stop at 3.88v with the blinking "END" indicator. I then have to use the charge mode to finish them to 4.2v. This is with the LiitoKala 500. I am not sure why this is.
perhaps they self discharge until there, how long do you leave them in from the start of the nor test, until the "END" shows up? it sounds very strange.
> "they all stop at 3.88v with the blinking END indicator" You just said it, that was clearly your mistake, because blinking END indicator inform you only that measure phase is finished (and that you can copy measured capacity from the display to the measured cell for example), but then you should wait when the END indicator stop blinking, this steady END state inform you that whole cycle is finished including the charge phase.
Can somebody on earth tell me the difference between the FAST test and the NOR test, when do we use them? I mean, when exactly do I use FAST and or use NOR test? I guess when testing a precharged new batteries it's advisable to use the fast test while it's ok to NOR test an old battery with questionable mAh, somebody please correct me.
The FAST test discharges the battery first, and then fully charges it. It measures how much energy was put IN to the battery, and assumes you will get that out. The NOR (normal) test charges the battery first, then completely discharges the battery, and measures how much energy you get OUT of the battery, and then fully charges it again. Most of the time, the FAST test will get you close to the actual capacity, but you should be aware there are certain battery failure modes where the battery will NOT be able to deliver OUT all the energy put IN, so the FAST test will give you inaccurate capacity results. Personally, I think of FAST mode as more of a 'refresh' type cycle; but if I really want to accurately know actual capacity, I use the NOR test. I usually run NOR test on new batteries just to make sure I'm getting the capacity I paid for.
question after the norm test is complete, how would i know when its done charging the battery. Does the "end" blinking mean its charging and if the "end'' is done blinking , does that mean is fully charged?
Robin Waldron -that’s what I have been trying to find out too but I ordered one anyways. For only $27 (US) on Amazon It seems like a good deal compared to others that also have the capacity test but more costly. I will just use jumpers if 21700’s don’t fit.
Don't buy the LiitoKala Lii 500 it's a piece of garbage... there is no over voltage protection circuit for each charging slot, so if you have a defective battery that attempts to draw more current than is allowed (because it is defective) it will damage the voltage regulator inside the unit and render the entire unit useless (each channel isn't isolated) I've had two chargers where this issue has happened to me.. or some other component inside the motherboard gets damaged because it has no protection circuit... spend the $50 and just get an OPUS charger.... unless you like seeing your charger go up in smoke... or your money.
Fook Utube yeah that should be more than fine! Just make sure it only outputs 12v and not higher, usually the laptop supplies go up to 18 or more volts
giottodiotto1 thank you very much! I welcome you to subscribe to follow up my future diving and tech related reviews/videos. And to pass by my chanell to check more thrilling videos all the best and always hit that like button Mark
Discharge currents are different than shown on LCD. For 2 lowest settings it is 250mA and for 2 high - 500mA.
Correct
cbm80amiga. I think you have confused a lot of people with your comment. For the 2 test modes, *normal* and *fast,* the LCD does _not show_ the discharge current. It only shows the charge current, which you can choose, and which are adjusted to be what you have chosen (I presume). The charge current you have chosen will be the charge current that gets shown. When you choose the charge current, the unit will then automatically pick a discharge current, depending on which charge current you've chosen. The discharge current will simply not be shown on the LCD. If you choose a charge current of 300ma or 500, the discharge current will be 250. If you choose a charge current of 700 or 1000, the discharge current will be 500. Perhaps you may think you said the same thing as I did, but you did not. You said the "discharge currents are different than shown on the LCD." That implies that the discharge currents are shown on the LCD. But the discharge currents are _not_ shown on the LCD. You said "for the 2 lowest settings 'it' is 250mA...." Here you did not make it clear which current the pronoun _it_ refers to, the charge current or the discharge current. For the 2 lowest _charge current settings_ the _discharge_ current will be 250mA.
best review this charger, I just got one love it been analyzing and labeling all my batteries!
Good video. Some croppy-looking solder joints! Not good flow. A good joint, where the solder was completely melted before it solidified again, should look shiny. In order to be sure you have a good, low-resistance connection, that stays low resistance over time, you must make sure the solder completely melts before it solidifies, which will make sure that it flows into all the nooks and crannies where it needs to go, to make good electrical contact between the parts that it holds together. I learned this the hard way when my supervisor chastised me for not making all my solder joints as good as he wanted. I was fortunate to work for a company, for a short time at least, where they cared about the quality and long-term service of their product. Eventually they fired me for some other reason. I can't remember what it was. I think my supervisor just didn't like me. Maybe I looked a bit like some uncle, or cousin, that he never got along with.
Nice extended review - tear downn, components and safety. Nice one. Will order this.
I recommend watching at 1.25 speed. Good review.
Can i use liitokala 126500 supply which is 12.6v dc?
2 amp from 5v ? how long does it take to charge 4x empty 18650 batteries ? 8-12 hours ?
I can usually run the NOR test on 18650's which takes between 5-9 hours, for charge frome current state to full, then discharge (tracking the mAH), then charge to full again.
For an AAA-cell 300mA is far too much! You will definetly damage it! It seems it doesn't recognize the cell type (capacity) and adjusts the charge current accordingly?
@mark pilzar.. mine battery charger work normal for few minute and after that remain led on at slot 2 and i cannot switch it to slot 1,3,4 any idea please help i use fresh batteries.??
hello sir. not a techie guy, need a plug and play type that can determine the voltage and charge it accordingly. mains are a plus. confused between nitecore i4/D4, liitokala engineer lii-500, xtar VC4/X4. Any suggestion which is better among them for you. thank you sir.
Cau diky tvemu videu jsem se rozhodoval mezi Opus 3100 a LitoKala Engineer Lii500 vyhrala ta druhá ohledně ceny a vykonu ješte diky testu Ruského itubera Admiral 134.Dnes mi LITOKALA Lii500 přišla..
r u sure it is good for C and 26650 cells, seems like 4 will not fit in this little charger.
HealthSupercharger hi, indeed only 2 26650 fit in at a time. unfortunately yes... but this usually happens with many charges. (in the Liitokala lii-202 you can actually fit 2 26650's in with no issues)
make sure you have rechargeable C cells!
Hi can you charge C and D size battery in this charger ? Thank you
no
Hi, thank you for the review. I got myself Liitokala Lii - 500 and the charger sparks while I'm injecting it into the wall. I noticed that one pin of the plug is slightly corroded. Could that be a reason?
Device might be faulty or the adapter is not good. I am using Tp-link router adapter which is 12V 1A.
Great Review-Thank's Pal.
Good the machine does get hot though and probly doesn't bode well for its longevity
Nah PCB can handle 80 degrees celcius working temperature
10:53 “I’m not exactly sure what this is all used for”...🤨...so why take it apart??
the 4 coils are for the buck converter for each battery slot
hey? just wanna ask... when you charge a li-oin battery (3.7V 3200MA) do the battery's temperature rise? in the sense that you can be burnt? And on the Nor test... is there a situation where the voltage stops at 4.22V and last for morthan 45-2 hours???
please reply i need some answers...
Leurie John Ramos
hot? not really unless you have a crappy cheap cell, they might get slightly warmer, but not hot.
depending on the cell the voltage drops after some time of nor testing, not sure why, maybe the charger uses a bit of the power
thanks for your question
best Regards
hello I'm from Brazil
How do I understand the speech? I'm sending a written question.
After all, what is the difference between charger, fast test and nor test?
Charger will charge the battery and at the end will show the nmh value that was charged, is it?
What about fast and nor test?
will do what? test and show the same value of nmh that I would see if the charger is used. So I can not understand the difference at all. Why and when to use each of the three?
Here's an example of all 3 modes using a battery with 1000 mAh capacity that is half full.
Charge: Battery will be fully charged and display that 550 mAh went into it.
Fast Test:: Battery will be discharged, then charged up and display 1100 mAh for what went into it.
Nor Test: (what most people use) The battery will get fully charged, then discharged and show the 1000 mAh that was pulled out of it, then fully charged again.
In all cases you end with a fully charged battery. I stated the mAh on the charge side as higher than the discharge because it's possible that it measures some of the losses that go into charging, like heat due to internal resistance of the battery. Most people want to know what can be discharged from the battery, since that is what matters when you are using it. A battery that has a high level of self discharge/drain will take a lot of mAh to charge up, but have much smaller capacity available during discharge. I hope this helps.
That helps indeed, I was wandering why my 2000mAh battery takes 3000+mAh, Ty
@@ekbuz
what does the 61MR means in the screen @ 3:42 ?
It's the internal resistance in milli Ohm
I test around 1000 cells(2150ma), the result around 120 of them where below 1000mA, I was thinking this are trash. For some reason I check these cell again and some of them keep below 1000ma but another ones where around 2000mA, do you think I'm doing something wrong.
Yes, your big error about, was purchased the shit from chinese communist bandits !
Did you notice during the not test mode that the batteries don't get fully charged at the end? Any idea why? they all seemed to be charged to 3.88ish volts instead of 4.2v
Kold
mine get charged all the way to 4.2v
it just takes time, first it discharges them all the way and then charges them back up to 4.2v (I am sure of that).
Although on a 2000mA battery for examle this process may take 8 hours or more depending on the current setting
with "Nor test" mode I all of my batteries have been getting between 1800-2100mAh but then on the last charging cycle they all stop at 3.88v with the blinking "END" indicator. I then have to use the charge mode to finish them to 4.2v. This is with the LiitoKala 500. I am not sure why this is.
perhaps they self discharge until there, how long do you leave them in from the start of the nor test, until the "END" shows up?
it sounds very strange.
ahhh, are you using LiFePo4 cells? then it would make sense! they have around that voltage when full
> "they all stop at 3.88v with the blinking END indicator"
You just said it, that was clearly your mistake, because blinking END indicator inform you only that measure phase is finished (and that you can copy measured capacity from the display to the measured cell for example), but then you should wait when the END indicator stop blinking, this steady END state inform you that whole cycle is finished including the charge phase.
Can somebody on earth tell me the difference between the FAST test and the NOR test, when do we use them? I mean, when exactly do I use FAST and or use NOR test? I guess when testing a precharged new batteries it's advisable to use the fast test while it's ok to NOR test an old battery with questionable mAh, somebody please correct me.
The FAST test discharges the battery first, and then fully charges it. It measures how much energy was put IN to the battery, and assumes you will get that out. The NOR (normal) test charges the battery first, then completely discharges the battery, and measures how much energy you get OUT of the battery, and then fully charges it again. Most of the time, the FAST test will get you close to the actual capacity, but you should be aware there are certain battery failure modes where the battery will NOT be able to deliver OUT all the energy put IN, so the FAST test will give you inaccurate capacity results. Personally, I think of FAST mode as more of a 'refresh' type cycle; but if I really want to accurately know actual capacity, I use the NOR test. I usually run NOR test on new batteries just to make sure I'm getting the capacity I paid for.
question after the norm test is complete, how would i know when its done charging the battery. Does the "end" blinking mean its charging and if the "end'' is done blinking , does that mean is fully charged?
blinking "end" means finished nor test - only capacity test. when "end" is done blinking - your battery is full again.
500mA is the highest discharge rate they can do.
it has bad feature....for example it has no cooling system like OPUS.
tough to reassemble! any tips?
Like on the video is easiest, turn it around, place all the negatives in and then connect each one to the board via clip
Cheers
i found an easier method! unhook the little springs from the negative terminal first
Has anyone tried 20700 or 21700 batteries in this charger?
Robin Waldron -that’s what I have been trying to find out too but I ordered one anyways. For only $27 (US) on Amazon It seems like a good deal compared to others that also have the capacity test but more costly. I will just use jumpers if 21700’s don’t fit.
@@krapeevids6992 please reply once you find out.
can i use 12v 3a or 5a power supply?
Yes you can use any of those! As long as they are 12v and the conector fits. Cheers
@@4444123ful can I use 12V 1A adapter?
Don't buy the LiitoKala Lii 500 it's a piece of garbage... there is no over voltage protection circuit for each charging slot, so if you have a defective battery that attempts to draw more current than is allowed (because it is defective) it will damage the voltage regulator inside the unit and render the entire unit useless (each channel isn't isolated) I've had two chargers where this issue has happened to me.. or some other component inside the motherboard gets damaged because it has no protection circuit... spend the $50 and just get an OPUS charger.... unless you like seeing your charger go up in smoke... or your money.
Thats why tp4056 is best choice for charging 18650 - cheap and easy. When you burn something - just add another one.
Hi,i have a question about the power supply,i lost me main 12v 2a power supply,but i have a 12v 5a from my laptop,will that be all right
Fook Utube yeah that should be more than fine! Just make sure it only outputs 12v and not higher, usually the laptop supplies go up to 18 or more volts
@@4444123ful can I use 12V 1A tp-link old router adapter? Mine didn't came with any adapter unfortunately
very good review of a very good charger!
giottodiotto1 thank you very much!
I welcome you to subscribe to follow up my future diving and tech related reviews/videos. And to pass by my chanell to check more thrilling videos
all the best and always hit that like button
Mark
there's another version of this liitokala, see the annex www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079D3QWXX/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza, do you know the difference
Does backlight stay on while charging? Thanks
Only for 30 seconds in any mode, so the charger doesn't disturb you at night :)
STOP SAYING SIMPLY
Thanks
It suck! The battery will leak after charging and the unit will complete damage when the leakage enter inside, don't buy this sucker charger
now you just destroy a good charger...you never assemble again why?....yes we now the lil-500 is smarter that you
??