Using a level on the scope works. However, if you don’t have a second level, you can hang a string from the ceiling with a small bolt or washer for a weight and line the vertical crosshair up with that. Using this method is far superior to using a level because as you showed in the video, turret caps aren’t always flat and sometimes neither are the turret wheels. As far as making windage and elevation adjustments, you don’t have to guess how many clicks to move either one. Fire your first shot from a solid, steady rest. If the arrow doesn’t hit the exact spot you are aiming at, put the crosshair where you were aiming, and while the bow is in a solid rest, adjust the crosshairs to move to cover the arrow you just shot. As far as the speed adjustment goes, Dave at Wyvern Creations has the simplest video I’ve seen on in speed, adjustable scopes. One thing to keep in mind is make sure the cables split the timing dots evenly and that your ATA measurement stayed at 10 1/2. If the string and or cables stretch that will throw off your ATA which in turn will make the bow slightly slower and throw off your yardage tapes.
Dude, that’s all great stuff. Since this is specific to Ravins most all their scopes have a good flat turrets except that sniper scope. But thanks for sharing the what I’ve called a tight line method. I do that as a quick set up at my shop, but I’m sure someone here can use that. Same goes for the windage and elevation adjustment technique. I usually only do that if I use a Bog Pod which I didn’t have. I don’t like to do that unless I can really lock it in. I’ve seen the guy from Wyvern, that is a really good video. In fact I may add a link to it in my description. All the cam timing stuff I’ll do in video #4, I’ve got some crazy examples of some jacked up Ravins. lol Thank you so much for watching and especially for your input. All really good stuff.
A fine point sharpie is your friend. I use one for my speed dial, the eye relief dial and the timing dots on the cams. Every time I pick it up, I glance at them to make sure they are still set.
You will love that R10X, solid choice. I’ve got a 4th video I’ll have ready soon. Maintaining and troubleshooting will be the last one. Thanks so much for watching.
Great Ravin series. Didn't you say on a previous video you would be doing a part 4 ? Is that correct and if so when will it be available? Thanks. Also,I'm curious, what state are you located in?
I tried sighting in my ravin 10 yesterday and after eight shots at 20 yards, I was still skipping arrows and I was shooting off of shooting stick so I wasn’t dropping my crossbow
Thanks for this tip! 👍 To be honest, I did not understand the “fat” reference, which seemed counter-intuitive for precision work on small scope screws, so I decided to look it up. In case anyone else is confused, here is the manufacturer’s product description… Manual Firearms Accurizing Torque (FAT) Wrench The Wheeler Engineering FAT Wrench is an essential tool for gunsmiths and firearms enthusiasts. From installing a scope to making adjustments, this reliable tool saves time and accurately torques screws to spec. The FAT Wrench features a standard 1/4" hex drive tip and can be used to apply torque from 10 to 65 in-lbs at 5 in-lbs increments. With proper care and use, the FAT Wrench will provide you with a lifetime of reliable service. - Align the marker with the center of the desired torque value - Designed for +/- 2 in-lbs accuracy up to 40 in-lbs, +/- 5% over 40 in-lbs - Can be used to apply torque to any fastener, it is not limited to firearms and firearm accessories - Includes 9 bits and a square drive adapter - Compatible with bits from the Wheeler 72-Piece and 89-Piece Screwdriver Sets - Always protect the area surrounding the screw with masking tape to prevent marring of metal and wood finishes, just in case a bit slips out while tightening - Functions like a screwdriver, it is not a ratcheting device
That is incorrect. (Pg 10) Section 3 #6 “Tighten the upper rings, alternating between front and back screws, while keeping an eye on your scope levels. Keep slightly tightening and alternating from front to back and torque to 15 in.-lbs. Over-tightening the mounting rings will damage the scope and void the warranty.” The reason I didn’t mention it is because most people don’t have torque wrench anyway.
Using a level on the scope works.
However, if you don’t have a second level, you can hang a string from the ceiling with a small bolt or washer for a weight and line the vertical crosshair up with that.
Using this method is far superior to using a level because as you showed in the video, turret caps aren’t always flat and sometimes neither are the turret wheels.
As far as making windage and elevation adjustments, you don’t have to guess how many clicks to move either one.
Fire your first shot from a solid, steady rest. If the arrow doesn’t hit the exact spot you are aiming at, put the crosshair where you were aiming, and while the bow is in a solid rest, adjust the crosshairs to move to cover the arrow you just shot.
As far as the speed adjustment goes, Dave at Wyvern Creations has the simplest video I’ve seen on in speed, adjustable scopes.
One thing to keep in mind is make sure the cables split the timing dots evenly and that your ATA measurement stayed at 10 1/2. If the string and or cables stretch that will throw off your ATA which in turn will make the bow slightly slower and throw off your yardage tapes.
Dude, that’s all great stuff. Since this is specific to Ravins most all their scopes have a good flat turrets except that sniper scope. But thanks for sharing the what I’ve called a tight line method. I do that as a quick set up at my shop, but I’m sure someone here can use that. Same goes for the windage and elevation adjustment technique. I usually only do that if I use a Bog Pod which I didn’t have. I don’t like to do that unless I can really lock it in. I’ve seen the guy from Wyvern, that is a really good video. In fact I may add a link to it in my description. All the cam timing stuff I’ll do in video #4, I’ve got some crazy examples of some jacked up Ravins. lol Thank you so much for watching and especially for your input. All really good stuff.
Nice video good info
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.
This is a great resource. Thanks. Looking forward to video four!
Thank you so much. Glad it helped.
A fine point sharpie is your friend. I use one for my speed dial, the eye relief dial and the timing dots on the cams. Every time I pick it up, I glance at them to make sure they are still set.
You are spot on there. I wish I had mentioned that. A silver sharpie is invaluable in the archery world. 👍
Just bought my first R10X crossbow today and am looking forward to my first hunt on a family farm. Nice video series you’ve put together.
You will love that R10X, solid choice. I’ve got a 4th video I’ll have ready soon. Maintaining and troubleshooting will be the last one. Thanks so much for watching.
Where is part 4? I cant find it?
Great Ravin series. Didn't you say on a previous video you would be doing a part 4 ? Is that correct and if so when will it be available? Thanks. Also,I'm curious, what state are you located in?
I’m so glad you enjoyed it. I’ve been working on #4 for about a month. People bring new ones in every day so I’m getting lots of good content. lol.
I tried sighting in my ravin 10 yesterday and after eight shots at 20 yards, I was still skipping arrows and I was shooting off of shooting stick so I wasn’t dropping my crossbow
Buy a fat wrench for torqing scopes screws
That’s a good idea. Not too expensive either. Only about $50 for a small kit. I’ll put a link in the description to one.
Thanks for this tip! 👍
To be honest, I did not understand the “fat” reference, which seemed counter-intuitive for precision work on small scope screws, so I decided to look it up. In case anyone else is confused, here is the manufacturer’s product description…
Manual Firearms Accurizing Torque (FAT) Wrench
The Wheeler Engineering FAT Wrench is an essential tool for gunsmiths and firearms enthusiasts. From installing a scope to making adjustments, this reliable tool saves time and accurately torques screws to spec. The FAT Wrench features a standard 1/4" hex drive tip and can be used to apply torque from 10 to 65 in-lbs at 5 in-lbs increments. With proper care and use, the FAT Wrench will provide you with a lifetime of reliable service.
- Align the marker with the center of the desired torque value
- Designed for +/- 2 in-lbs accuracy up to 40 in-lbs, +/- 5% over 40 in-lbs
- Can be used to apply torque to any fastener, it is not limited to firearms and firearm accessories
- Includes 9 bits and a square drive adapter
- Compatible with bits from the Wheeler 72-Piece and 89-Piece Screwdriver Sets
- Always protect the area surrounding the screw with masking tape to prevent marring of metal and wood finishes, just in case a bit slips out while tightening
- Functions like a screwdriver, it is not a ratcheting device
Manual recommends 30-33 in torque not just "snug" btw.
That is incorrect. (Pg 10) Section 3 #6 “Tighten the upper rings, alternating between front and back screws, while keeping an eye on your scope levels. Keep slightly tightening and alternating from front to back and torque to 15 in.-lbs. Over-tightening the mounting rings will damage the scope and void the warranty.”
The reason I didn’t mention it is because most people don’t have torque wrench anyway.