All great mods. I have a 2013 3500 DRW & definitely did the trans bypass, but I also switched to Amzoil severe duty fluid & my transmission running temps dropped 50degrees. I haul heavy ( personal 5th wheel) Just under 32K
Very interesting you still have the CCV dumping into the turbo with everything else you've done in the engine bay. No right or wrong, just saying might give you more longevity for your turbo.
Thank you we are humbled by your kind comments....just an FYI we have over 15K miles on the systems check out our other videos....we went to every environment possible to test them
Great video man! I just bought a 2017 6.7 Cummins and this helps in trying to figure what mods I want to do. My truck is completely stock so just trying to decide what I do first.
Thanks. Awesome your going to love it lol…..I would suggest catching all the maintenance up….then doing the by pass kits….depending on ease of getting a kit or piecing one together you could save some $$ I went with the kits because at the time it was the best option
Subbed. We have the same truck brother. I have a few questions, for the oil bypass is it plug and play? Also do you fill the filter with oil while installing? Coolant bypass , Plug and play? I saw a wiring harness attached near the coolant bypass filter, is that something else or is that a part of the system? If so where is that attached to? Thank you for this video a in depth video explaining the two mods mentioned above would be very helpful. Keep up the good work, man.
Hello and thanks for checking us out and subbing, to answer your questions both are plug & play both came with everything needed. The oil bypass will come with the threaded filler cap one ss line goes to it and the other line threads into the top of the OEM oil filter housing after removing a small test port plug. I do drain and fill the filter with every change its a few extra minutes, but it makes me feel better about it lol......but you don't have to as is will self-prime and only needs to be changed yearly or so depending on how much you drive. As far as the coolant by-pass also plug and play one line goes in between cylinder 3-4 I believe the other goes into the metal pipe by the egr system (if it's still there) where the bleed port is. the wiring pack is part of the truck, and the filter bracket is bolted next to it so has nothing to do with it
I change my oil & filter every 5000 miles, now 521,000 miles and my Cummins 2015 oil is Clear to 5000 miles. Yup, CLEAR & changes to brow, never BLACK! Deleted stock tune..
I have 4 of these 2012 6.7 L. They all have between 150k and 250k miles. We are all having overheating problems. This can occur simply from going over mountain pass in PNW when 85 deg plus. Any recommendations on radiator upgrades? Trucks are mainly stock. I see the coolant pipe but have you done anything to your radiator?
We have never seen above 225°F while pulling over 10k in 100°F…..nothing done to the radiator 250k it’s the original one. We don’t have a recommendation on radiator because we went with Mishimoto at first but we’re sent 2 damaged back to back so we just decided to keep it stock and did the following. (If you can delete it do it) Things we have done that help the temp: G12 coolant 180° thermostat Metal upper radiator pipe Coolant bypass kit
Yup dual bypass thermostat kit with 180 on both the Sinister coolant filter system let's you pull the plugs out of the manifolds too well then aftermarket exhaust manifold it brings EGR down significantly when I'm pulling I never go above 190 granted I got the aftermarket radiator and I got duals and I replace the water pump a long time ago my plastic one wasn't broken but it didn't hurt to change it
10k fuel filters with RETAIL pump fuel, 5k changes with RED Diesel, 2500-3000 miles with Recycled Heating OIL & filtered 2x before pumping into TANK. Pump Filter 5k or 10k for heating/oil depending on quality of Heating oil, red diesel, kerosene or Jet Fuel.
We go 15k max but only fill up at truck stations. Also we have the upgraded OEM filter. Off road should be the same just dyed for taxes, what injector are you using for the alternative fuels
I just use 2 drop in KN washable air filters, 2 not 1. the bottom 1 get's really dirty and the 2nd KN catches fine dust without plugging up... Washing is $1.25 Dollar Tree Detergent or BBQ cleaner and a CARWASH Pressure rinse after soaking 2 KN Filters. $1-2 wash...
I agree with a few of these except I’d get a fuel filter housing delete and put a fass or airdog on it . Also if it’s a 68rfe tranny I’d get a revmax billet valve body , billet screw on tranny filter screw cause they break off once you raise your line pressure . Get rid of the grid heater and install a coil heater , banks has a kit . Also if deleted adjust your valve last to .10 and .20 . Also head studs , exotic makes a good set for a good price . You don’t need to spend 1200 for arp 625s unless you plan on compound turbos and over 800 hp . Then I’d get rid of the vgt turbo and install a fleece cheetah or If you got high hp goals install a ats aurora compound setup like a 7000 over a 4000 or 3000
@@DIYKAI o ok . My biggest problem with those valve bodies was the cheap channel plate and cross leaks but if your rebuilding it and putting a billet channel plate you should be good let us know how it works out
I just bought a 5th gen but I can't find much in the way of mods available. I love Banks products but they've been promising a tuner since the 5th gen came out three years ago
I’ve had my ‘20 since the end of 2020 and I’ve been patiently waiting for the Banks Derringer to release for the Cummins to stay compliant. I’ve hit 20k now and am really starting to consider deleting.
Where do you put the in feed on the oil filter housing I have 2 fittings on top 1 I have to remove a hard coolant to in stall 1 fitting toe other 1 I can get to easy.
Removing any federal emission component or altering them from the original intent is illegal to operate on public roads, if it’s a track or farm vehicle some states exempt them…..depending on what state you live in will depend if you have emissions most do not test diesel trucks that are 10k and higher. In short yes it’s illegal, long answer depends on your state most southern and west states do not require emissions so it would not be an issue
Yes diesel additives for sure! Good catch we always use Lucas mixed with Cummins approved diesel clean.....FASS I dont think we need in our situation we have the billet drop in dual pump it's good to 850HP we use the newer drop in fuel filter from Cummins
Those air filters are trash. You’ll dust your piston rings and cause blow by. For me, if I’m looking to buy a pickup, if I see that air filter I immediately walk away.
@@DIYKAI , all of those types of filters are oiled. The oil is the only thing that catches dirt, otherwise there is zero filtration ability. They dry quickly and allow dirt to pass through. I had one on a previous 6.7 Cummins I owned, I cleaned and oiled it religiously and it still managed to allow enough dust to pass through to trash my piston rings and cause blow by, within 30k miles (I’d estimate less than 1000 miles on gravel). In my opinion, what you gain is negligible compared to what you risk. I will say I live on a long gravel road and that may be the major contributing factor. If a guy lives in the city it may not be an issue, unless you decide to take a turn down a gravel road. Great video and I’m not trying to be negative, but I am being honest about my opinion and it’s my opinion, those filters are a mistake if you’re looking to make your pickup last as long as possible.
You lost me at an air filter will add horsepower and MPG. Are you guys really still drinking that Kool-Aid after all these years? Cmon. Dyno proof or stop regurgitating nonsense.
Well I can tell you from owning a shop for 20 years that yes a free flowing filter will free up HP and increase MPG already proven by K&N so no need to reinvent the wheel......as far as me I have documented and shown MPG and TQ increase (computer data) check my other videos.......so with that said yes a proper setup WILL increase numbers and crap setup won't
The coolant filter is it before deleting, or after deleting!! Does it filter the coolant from the reservoir back to the engine or filters? What's already moving through the engine then back to the engine!
So I recommend doing them first honestly. They will run will full factory items and deleted. The bypass systems do just that bypass about 10% of the fluid while running to the other filters....so basically the more you run it the clean it is in a sense......it moves the fluid from tap points already on the Cummins block the coolant reservoir operates as normal
Excellent video. Brief and to the point. Most RUclipsrs would turn this into a 1 hour video. I'm now a fan!
Thank you!
Like it, straight to the point, no BS👍
Thanks for watching!
All great mods. I have a 2013 3500 DRW & definitely did the trans bypass, but I also switched to Amzoil severe duty fluid & my transmission running temps dropped 50degrees. I haul heavy ( personal 5th wheel) Just under 32K
Yes definitely we just did the Mishimoto radi and intercooler what an improvement coolant temps never over 220 in the Rockies with a 32ft trailer
Very interesting you still have the CCV dumping into the turbo with everything else you've done in the engine bay. No right or wrong, just saying might give you more longevity for your turbo.
It’s all in the maintenance of the truck….250k and zero issues CCV is changed every 75k never have any oil in it……turbo is original as well
CCV is filtered from the factory.
Crank case vent going right to the turbo still. That's one of the 1st things to do after deleting it.
We have zero blowby so not a huge issues right now
Great video!!
Thank you!
#9. Be sure to add anti seize to the threads of metal fuel cap. Plastic and metal will expand and get stuck.
And by the way, you're like Jesus for Cummins!!
Thank you we are humbled by your kind comments....just an FYI we have over 15K miles on the systems check out our other videos....we went to every environment possible to test them
Great video!!! Keep us updated
We just completed a 2k trip with some more add ons flawlessly pulled 10k+
Coolant, Power Steering, Clutch & Brake Fluids are Flushed and changed every 100k.
Diffs & Trans & Transfer Case 25k
Great video man! I just bought a 2017 6.7 Cummins and this helps in trying to figure what mods I want to do. My truck is completely stock so just trying to decide what I do first.
Thanks. Awesome your going to love it lol…..I would suggest catching all the maintenance up….then doing the by pass kits….depending on ease of getting a kit or piecing one together you could save some $$ I went with the kits because at the time it was the best option
Same, 2017 Ram with only 20k, want to bypass the EGR ASAP.
We cleaned so much carbon out of it and this was the second cooler it was time to go lol
I know this is old, but watch the recent banks info on the aftermarket diff covers.
I seen and was thinking about it when we drained the fluid after a short run it’s seemed to foam……but we have over 20k and all seems good so idk
Subbed. We have the same truck brother. I have a few questions, for the oil bypass is it plug and play? Also do you fill the filter with oil while installing?
Coolant bypass , Plug and play? I saw a wiring harness attached near the coolant bypass filter, is that something else or is that a part of the system? If so where is that attached to?
Thank you for this video a in depth video explaining the two mods mentioned above would be very helpful.
Keep up the good work, man.
Hello and thanks for checking us out and subbing,
to answer your questions both are plug & play both came with everything needed.
The oil bypass will come with the threaded filler cap one ss line goes to it and the other line threads into the top of the OEM oil filter housing after removing a small test port plug.
I do drain and fill the filter with every change its a few extra minutes, but it makes me feel better about it lol......but you don't have to as is will self-prime and only needs to be changed yearly or so depending on how much you drive.
As far as the coolant by-pass also plug and play one line goes in between cylinder 3-4 I believe the other goes into the metal pipe by the egr system (if it's still there) where the bleed port is.
the wiring pack is part of the truck, and the filter bracket is bolted next to it so has nothing to do with it
Banks differential covers look those up
we have they are nice also
I change my oil & filter every 5000 miles, now 521,000 miles and my Cummins 2015 oil is Clear to 5000 miles. Yup, CLEAR & changes to brow, never BLACK! Deleted stock tune..
We just let the computer tell us when to change…512k wow stock trans still? We run a bypass oil filter Amsoil
Tap Drain Holes with rubber washers on the bottom of the Diff Covers so you can drain the Diffs in 5 minutes.... and fill them in 10 minutes....
Yup we have a BD cover has a fill port
Damn good video dude
Thanks!
I have 4 of these 2012 6.7 L. They all have between 150k and 250k miles. We are all having overheating problems. This can occur simply from going over mountain pass in PNW when 85 deg plus. Any recommendations on radiator upgrades? Trucks are mainly stock. I see the coolant pipe but have you done anything to your radiator?
We have never seen above 225°F while pulling over 10k in 100°F…..nothing done to the radiator 250k it’s the original one.
We don’t have a recommendation on radiator because we went with Mishimoto at first but we’re sent 2 damaged back to back so we just decided to keep it stock and did the following.
(If you can delete it do it)
Things we have done that help the temp:
G12 coolant
180° thermostat
Metal upper radiator pipe
Coolant bypass kit
Yup dual bypass thermostat kit with 180 on both the Sinister coolant filter system let's you pull the plugs out of the manifolds too well then aftermarket exhaust manifold it brings EGR down significantly when I'm pulling I never go above 190 granted I got the aftermarket radiator and I got duals and I replace the water pump a long time ago my plastic one wasn't broken but it didn't hurt to change it
10k fuel filters with RETAIL pump fuel, 5k changes with RED Diesel, 2500-3000 miles with Recycled Heating OIL & filtered 2x before pumping into TANK. Pump Filter 5k or 10k for heating/oil depending on quality of Heating oil, red diesel, kerosene or Jet Fuel.
We go 15k max but only fill up at truck stations. Also we have the upgraded OEM filter. Off road should be the same just dyed for taxes, what injector are you using for the alternative fuels
I just use 2 drop in KN washable air filters, 2 not 1. the bottom 1 get's really dirty and the 2nd KN catches fine dust without plugging up... Washing is $1.25 Dollar Tree Detergent or BBQ cleaner and a CARWASH Pressure rinse after soaking 2 KN Filters. $1-2 wash...
Yup any degreaser will work
I agree with a few of these except I’d get a fuel filter housing delete and put a fass or airdog on it . Also if it’s a 68rfe tranny I’d get a revmax billet valve body , billet screw on tranny filter screw cause they break off once you raise your line pressure . Get rid of the grid heater and install a coil heater , banks has a kit . Also if deleted adjust your valve last to .10 and .20 . Also head studs , exotic makes a good set for a good price . You don’t need to spend 1200 for arp 625s unless you plan on compound turbos and over 800 hp . Then I’d get rid of the vgt turbo and install a fleece cheetah or If you got high hp goals install a ats aurora compound setup like a 7000 over a 4000 or 3000
We are going to bypass the OEM housing we have a fleet guard 2M kit
We are going to bypass the OEM housing we have a fleet guard 2M kit
Rebuild the valve body already upgraded OEM with SONNEX metal piston plate and all
@@DIYKAI o ok . My biggest problem with those valve bodies was the cheap channel plate and cross leaks but if your rebuilding it and putting a billet channel plate you should be good let us know how it works out
@@shaunesterkamp9832 20k plus hard miles all good stock otherwise trans
What transmission do you have? Have you had any issues with it since adding power engine power?
Stock 68rfe that we slightly modified zero issues holding power
do you do hot shots with this truck? ?trying to figure out what I can and can't do to stay legal on the road
It used to be a hotshot truck not anymore. As long as you don’t delete it everything else is fine
Do the grid heater delete before any of these so the bolt doesnt fall into your block and cost you 20k
Yes grid heater should go or at least be checked often for play
I just bought a 5th gen but I can't find much in the way of mods available. I love Banks products but they've been promising a tuner since the 5th gen came out three years ago
Nice yea this 4th gen we have was the last b4 DEF newer trucks are getting harder to tune
I’ve had my ‘20 since the end of 2020 and I’ve been patiently waiting for the Banks Derringer to release for the Cummins to stay compliant. I’ve hit 20k now and am really starting to consider deleting.
@@Sinsofcarolina dude it's bs that we can't mod our trucks to be the way we want them to be. damned epa has too much power
It’s worth it if you can
Where do you put the in feed on the oil filter housing I have 2 fittings on top 1 I have to remove a hard coolant to in stall 1 fitting toe other 1 I can get to easy.
The port directly under the exhaust manifold looking at the top of the filter housing it’s the port closest to the engine
Id add another item to your list go better fuel filtration. Either fass or airdog.
Just did a titan and fleece upgrade
@@DIYKAI I did a FASS on my 11 3500 love the outcome just need to do fleece delete to clean up engine bay more
Nice did you have to drill the tank for the fass kit
@@DIYKAI for the sump yes easy job actually.
With the 60g titan tank and the fleece drop in pump no drilling got for 850HP super easy as changing the pump lol
Where did you get the battery covers?
Thanks
Are you talking about the fabric cold weather ones?
@@DIYKAI yes sir, velcro strap enclosed. I like em. Smart idea..
@bengals068 these are OEM I don’t think Ram sells them anymore they changed the design I will try and find some links for you
What! Not the intake heater?
Yup we moved to an inline one ZERO chance of a bolt coming loose like the factory ones
Did you do anything to keep the radiator cooler
??
Just regular coolant changes with G05 coolant, coolant bypass filter, and a factory Cummins 180 T stat
We were going to swap the radiator but 10k+ towing in 90°+ temps and it never went over 220° going up a hill sits at 190° cruising
@@DIYKAI I definitely need to do this I’m running at 203 cruising with 10k load and it heats up the minute I start climbing
@@biggerdoggtransports5956 definitely helped man we are thinking about upgrading the oil cool
Are all the upgrades legal? Will I still pass emissions
Removing any federal emission component or altering them from the original intent is illegal to operate on public roads, if it’s a track or farm vehicle some states exempt them…..depending on what state you live in will depend if you have emissions most do not test diesel trucks that are 10k and higher.
In short yes it’s illegal, long answer depends on your state most southern and west states do not require emissions so it would not be an issue
The only “illegal” mod is deleting the truck all others are perfectly fine
You forgot a FASS system and diesel additives.
Yes diesel additives for sure! Good catch we always use Lucas mixed with Cummins approved diesel clean.....FASS I dont think we need in our situation we have the billet drop in dual pump it's good to 850HP we use the newer drop in fuel filter from Cummins
Tested by Gail Banks that the best diff cover is factory.
Correct BD keeps the heat down also
I would've done grid delete before any of these
I would say our top 3 right away grid heater, oil & coolant bypass filters
What can cause a p0088 code ? Running 50%
Most likely contaminated fuel or water in fuel
Do not delete your truck. If you do you can’t sell it or go to a dealership. Go to banks power .
@@scottcampbell2585 I agree if someone wants to sell or service at a stealership then yes keep it all
@@DIYKAI how can you go wrong with what gale banks has done? Hell he has an engineer from the sr -71 blackbird program working for him.
Lol! Who care about dealer, ALWAYS DELETE!
Delete. And then you are miles ahead.
Those air filters are trash. You’ll dust your piston rings and cause blow by. For me, if I’m looking to buy a pickup, if I see that air filter I immediately walk away.
We have had it on for about 30k no issues….care to explain how they are trash? This is the oiled one
@@DIYKAI , all of those types of filters are oiled. The oil is the only thing that catches dirt, otherwise there is zero filtration ability. They dry quickly and allow dirt to pass through. I had one on a previous 6.7 Cummins I owned, I cleaned and oiled it religiously and it still managed to allow enough dust to pass through to trash my piston rings and cause blow by, within 30k miles (I’d estimate less than 1000 miles on gravel). In my opinion, what you gain is negligible compared to what you risk. I will say I live on a long gravel road and that may be the major contributing factor. If a guy lives in the city it may not be an issue, unless you decide to take a turn down a gravel road. Great video and I’m not trying to be negative, but I am being honest about my opinion and it’s my opinion, those filters are a mistake if you’re looking to make your pickup last as long as possible.
No we appreciate all the info we can get as this is our first 6.7 we still have the stock air box maybe we will throw it back on
Might add a filter sock for added protection
@@mikecude4167 which upgrade would you recommend? I guess banks is a go to right ? What are your thoughts ?
You lost me at an air filter will add horsepower and MPG. Are you guys really still drinking that Kool-Aid after all these years? Cmon.
Dyno proof or stop regurgitating nonsense.
Well I can tell you from owning a shop for 20 years that yes a free flowing filter will free up HP and increase MPG already proven by K&N so no need to reinvent the wheel......as far as me I have documented and shown MPG and TQ increase (computer data) check my other videos.......so with that said yes a proper setup WILL increase numbers and crap setup won't
Nothing like mechanical performance advice from a fourteen-year-old. Great enthusiasm but maybe get a little bit more experience
Yea try again buddy been doing this way longer than 14 years. Thanks for the view stay salty
The coolant filter is it before deleting, or after deleting!! Does it filter the coolant from the reservoir back to the engine or filters? What's already moving through the engine then back to the engine!
So I recommend doing them first honestly. They will run will full factory items and deleted.
The bypass systems do just that bypass about 10% of the fluid while running to the other filters....so basically the more you run it the clean it is in a sense......it moves the fluid from tap points already on the Cummins block the coolant reservoir operates as normal
No,
No need for all this & most advance auto shelf items he discussing is show and gimmicky!!
AIRDOG is all you need , DONE
Air dog is 🗑️ compared to the drop in Fleece pump unit we have
Poopp😂😂😂😂