Wow! The clear really brings out that color. Looks great. I like your system of painting the jambs and putting the car together to paint with all the panels on.
I can't help but wonder if I would like your videos as well if you were NOT doing a first generation Camaro. I own a 67 RS convertible & used to own a 68 RS convertible. Still, its fun to watch.
Wow, 2018 Volvo Red? It always hard to tell on screens plus different light. Daylight being the best, but it almost looked a copper brown, then got darker after the clear went on. I will be watching the rest. I worked as an ASE Master Tech in 1978 at the Datsun / Nissan dealer. A local lady new anchor lady was disappointed with the offer for a trade in and we struck a deal, I bought it from her. Paint code (1976) Nissan 301 is shown on the internet, but enjoyed that base coat clear. If you go to a busy intersection with colors of all normal varieties, and check off the colors of everything that passes by, you get very little medium metallic brown/copper colors. I don’t like the burnt orange and others but find it interesting that few are copper or light brown. This color does change with the lights, from direct sunlight to clouds. Just being different as my taste alone is expressed from grays, whites, blacks, greens but few reds or copper & browns. I will be watching more videos. Thanks!
Thanks! Yeah 2018 volvo flamenco red. I pored through books with a uv rated light at the paint store until I found a non tri coat red that I liked. The full paint went on many months after this video was shot. But it's on my channel now as well. I have yet to take it outside but when I shine a UV rated light on it the gold and copper pears pop like crazy. Having a pro cut and buff the clear out for me now and slowly making progress on the rest of the build. I'll be uploading more small assembly video updates to the Camaro build here soon. Thanks for watching!
If the car was stripped down to bare metal and primed you really don't need a sealer in stead of 2-K primer I would have used epoxy primer for sticking to the metal better and hold back the rust as well then put a 2-K primer then paint... But I have to admit not a bad job I would wait till the base is dry then tack it again... Really nice color...
Would have been easier and faster to use an etching primer and sealer. They make etching primer in a spray can that works really good/fast and easy ' no cleaning up the gun like we had to do years. Also not that much over spray.
Question..When you do inside jambs months ahead of outside body color, how do you protect the jambs from overspray? If taped off, do you have a edge where older jamb sprayed clear coat meets fresh sprayed body clear coat? I'm confused because I know you only have a window of a few hours to spray. Taping off would cause a hard line edge, and not taping would cause fresh paint/clear on top of previous cured area. Thanks for any info! I'm painting my car this Summer.
Jeff Augg good observation jeff. the video I post next week will show what my final setup looked like. There are lots of options and I did adjust some of the lines. changed my approach slightly after I made this video. I decided to hide the hard line under the rocker pannel for the doors and did end up re-shooting the trunk jamb to hide any visibility hard lines that are hard to sand out.
Yep. It’s much better long run to just shoot it alll at once. You can shoot all base first. Then clear the dash and jams twice then move to the outside clear , and on the last exterior clear coat come back and widen the fan , and fast hit the whole thing one more coat. It will make it all slick , and 2 wet and one quick coat is plenty of coverage for something you’re not sanding and buffing. ( gives me 4 exterior and 2 1/2 interior and jambs ).
What paint are you using Basecoat Clear coat or single stage ? Usually 400 for single stage and 600 for Basecoat clear coat is the most common paper I know it it is a little more time but less chance of paint sinking down the road... I have seen 320 sanding scratches down the road from the odd painter from there painting techniques... Mostly I noticed in the first coat causing the problems...and timing of the second coat.. But other than that it is looking good I like to do restoration this way as well.. But only thing I do is once it's bear metal I use epoxy primer to help stick to the metal better & stop future rust you can do body work on top of the epoxy... Then use a high Solid primer for blocking straight... There is s little more time and expense involved but in the end it's well worth it...same with the drying time give it an extra day or two for shrinking as it fully cured...and don't believe the label about not shrinking everything shrinks within time.. The way it's looking I wouldn't worry about a sealer just another product to breakdown after time... If the vehicle is all uniform primer and fine sanded with 600 grit sandpaper for Base coat there really is no need for sealer at all.... Only thing to remember is never set anything von the car body not even a coffee cup and dirty hands as well keep hands clean or ware gloves oil from hands will soak into the primer and if your painting put a chain from under the body to the ground to kill any static electricity that acts like a dust magnetic as well as painting outside or in a garage add a couple drops of liquid off bug reppelant I done this for years... That comes in handy to keep flys and other critters out as well as turning the shop lights out with the door open so the flys will leave the room they like daylight and will leave a dark room to go to light.. When you assemble the doors and trunk fully is great mask the front of the door areas in the front side cowl area I set the fenders on loose paint the car the once dry remove fenders and masking and you just have the from end to fit but it dose a nicer job I use the foam jam tape a lot with a extra coat of clear in the jams in case of polishing that touch of over spray ... The little extra care in the preparation will give you many years of a work of art that won't let you down..
Wow looks fantastic. Love the color. We are just getting ready for sealer then Base. would you be ok with giving out the paint code? Again great job. I was trying to find the car finished.
ruclips.net/video/QR6ez2aS63g/видео.html. Here is the final product. Turned out great. Color was a Volvo color. 2018 flamico red. I just looked for a color I liked out of the book. Finding one that wasn’t a tri coat with a lot of pearl. Careful reds are spendy. :)
Looks awesome brother!! Keep up the good work!!
Wow! The clear really brings out that color. Looks great. I like your system of painting the jambs and putting the car together to paint with all the panels on.
Wes Perry. Thanks Wes! So far so good on painting the jambs first. Masking and Blending them may be tricky but we’ll see as it goes.
Paint those jams Jake!!!! Excellent work!!!
I can’t wait to see more candy apple red paint!
You are doing great you are laying down some sweet paint on those jams keep up the good work
I can't help but wonder if I would like your videos as well if you were NOT doing a first generation Camaro. I own a 67 RS convertible & used to own a 68 RS convertible. Still, its fun to watch.
Great color choice! It'll look awsome when you shoot the panels.
southernfriedhippie thanks I think so to!
Definitely looking good. Keep up the good work.
Nice 68 I have iam doing with silver base,then kandy apple red
That car is gonna be SSSSAAAWWWWEEEEEETTTTTT!
Wow, 2018 Volvo Red? It always hard to tell on screens plus different light. Daylight being the best, but it almost looked a copper brown, then got darker after the clear went on. I will be watching the rest.
I worked as an ASE Master Tech in 1978 at the Datsun / Nissan dealer. A local lady new anchor lady was disappointed with the offer for a trade in and we struck a deal, I bought it from her. Paint code (1976) Nissan 301 is shown on the internet, but enjoyed that base coat clear.
If you go to a busy intersection with colors of all normal varieties, and check off the colors of everything that passes by, you get very little medium metallic brown/copper colors. I don’t like the burnt orange and others but find it interesting that few are copper or light brown. This color does change with the lights, from direct sunlight to clouds. Just being different as my taste alone is expressed from grays, whites, blacks, greens but few reds or copper & browns. I will be watching more videos. Thanks!
Thanks! Yeah 2018 volvo flamenco red. I pored through books with a uv rated light at the paint store until I found a non tri coat red that I liked. The full paint went on many months after this video was shot. But it's on my channel now as well. I have yet to take it outside but when I shine a UV rated light on it the gold and copper pears pop like crazy. Having a pro cut and buff the clear out for me now and slowly making progress on the rest of the build. I'll be uploading more small assembly video updates to the Camaro build here soon. Thanks for watching!
Looking sweet dude
If the car was stripped down to bare metal and primed you really don't need a sealer in stead of 2-K primer I would have used epoxy primer for sticking to the metal better and hold back the rust as well then put a 2-K primer then paint... But I have to admit not a bad job I would wait till the base is dry then tack it again... Really nice color...
Would have been easier and faster to use an etching primer and sealer. They make etching primer in a spray can that works really good/fast and easy ' no cleaning up the gun like we had to do years. Also not that much over spray.
Now time to wetsand and buff, so tedious but worth it
Question..When you do inside jambs months ahead of outside body color, how do you protect the jambs from overspray? If taped off, do you have a edge where older jamb sprayed clear coat meets fresh sprayed body clear coat? I'm confused because I know you only have a window of a few hours to spray. Taping off would cause a hard line edge, and not taping would cause fresh paint/clear on top of previous cured area. Thanks for any info! I'm painting my car this Summer.
Jeff Augg good observation jeff. the video I post next week will show what my final setup looked like. There are lots of options and I did adjust some of the lines. changed my approach slightly after I made this video. I decided to hide the hard line under the rocker pannel for the doors and did end up re-shooting the trunk jamb to hide any visibility hard lines that are hard to sand out.
You would have saved yourself a lot of time and painted the body no lines no retaping work looks good
Yep. It’s much better long run to just shoot it alll at once. You can shoot all base first. Then clear the dash and jams twice then move to the outside clear , and on the last exterior clear coat come back and widen the fan , and fast hit the whole thing one more coat. It will make it all slick , and 2 wet and one quick coat is plenty of coverage for something you’re not sanding and buffing. ( gives me 4 exterior and 2 1/2 interior and jambs ).
What paint are you using Basecoat Clear coat or single stage ? Usually 400 for single stage and 600 for Basecoat clear coat is the most common paper I know it it is a little more time but less chance of paint sinking down the road... I have seen 320 sanding scratches down the road from the odd painter from there painting techniques... Mostly I noticed in the first coat causing the problems...and timing of the second coat..
But other than that it is looking good I like to do restoration this way as well..
But only thing I do is once it's bear metal I use epoxy primer to help stick to the metal better & stop future rust you can do body work on top of the epoxy... Then use a high Solid primer for blocking straight... There is s little more time and expense involved but in the end it's well worth it...same with the drying time give it an extra day or two for shrinking as it fully cured...and don't believe the label about not shrinking everything shrinks within time..
The way it's looking I wouldn't worry about a sealer just another product to breakdown after time...
If the vehicle is all uniform primer and fine sanded with 600 grit sandpaper for Base coat there really is no need for sealer at all.... Only thing to remember is never set anything von the car body not even a coffee cup and dirty hands as well keep hands clean or ware gloves oil from hands will soak into the primer and if your painting put a chain from under the body to the ground to kill any static electricity that acts like a dust magnetic as well as painting outside or in a garage add a couple drops of liquid off bug reppelant I done this for years... That comes in handy to keep flys and other critters out as well as turning the shop lights out with the door open so the flys will leave the room they like daylight and will leave a dark room to go to light..
When you assemble the doors and trunk fully is great mask the front of the door areas in the front side cowl area I set the fenders on loose paint the car the once dry remove fenders and masking and you just have the from end to fit but it dose a nicer job I use the foam jam tape a lot with a extra coat of clear in the jams in case of polishing that touch of over spray ...
The little extra care in the preparation will give you many years of a work of art that won't let you down..
Base clear job.
what is the color you are using??? love to paint my 68 firebird with this.
Thanks. It’s a 2018 Volvo color called flamenco red
Hello , I have a question, can put Bondo over lead bodywork?
Looking good. Really like the color.
What size compressor are you using?
Joe Lafata 60 gallon old husky Home Depot special
What color is that and paint code ?
Wow looks fantastic. Love the color. We are just getting ready for sealer then Base. would you be ok with giving out the paint code? Again great job. I was trying to find the car finished.
ruclips.net/video/QR6ez2aS63g/видео.html. Here is the final product. Turned out great. Color was a Volvo color. 2018 flamico red. I just looked for a color I liked out of the book. Finding one that wasn’t a tri coat with a lot of pearl. Careful reds are spendy. :)
180 on jambs ,that's much to rough and I don't know much lol ,I would go at least 320 or 400
What’s the name of the color?? Thanks!
Noah Beamer flamico red a 2018 Volvo color
What color is that
Flimaco red. 2018 Volvo color
@@JakesShop car looks really good.im working on a1980z-28 t-top car I'm going to try to paint it myself it's going Black..
Can I bring you my car to do🙄
He says jambs like 59,0000000 times
I know right. what's wrong with this guy?