Next time . After the first coat of color dries. drag a piece of assilex kovax 600-1200 grit pads to make the surface flat and it will knock down all those nibs in the color . Even use a slightly damp lint free cloths and then lightly blow and tack and you will be ready for the rest of the base coats. Otherwise anything in the base color will show up even after the clear is sanded flat. You did a nice job . Nice to see someone teaching correctly.
Jon, Jon, JJJJJOOOONNN!!!! Stop using the car as a work bench!!!!! Lol! The best advice I can offer when painting a car in your garage, is to have multiple temp reducers and start as early in the morning as you can, like 4:30am. That way, when you get to the clear, it’s still cool enough and by the time you are done, the heat will act like an oven bake. This of course is when you paint in late spring through summer. Next, I would recommend using a dry DA with 1200, it will knock all the texture out and saves your arms from hand sanding. Obviously stay away from the edges and glide over them with 1500. And, use the 1500, 2000, and 3000 trizact wet on a DA. Makes life so much easier. Awesome work though my friend! The Great Pumpkin looks ready for the prom!
thanks for the advice. I just fake it till i make it sometimes and learn a lot the hard way. so helpful input is welcome. I have been contemplating upgrading to a DA for the sanding part, I have seen a handful of people using it and looks handy for sure, but man my forearms are looking so jacked after all the sanding on this car 😎
About to do this to my 67’ but I’m formerly a car dealer and this was a little trade secret. On our cheaper cash cars we could send them to get a 300 macco special They always came out looking orange peeled but even with just a single stage paint job you can do this and make it look like a much higher end paint job
I don’t trust myself with a power sander for that stage. Debate it many times and i Watched many people do it with success but I just don’t know if I can as well
@@VinylVillageGarage it's not as bad as you think when you use the interface pad you have a cushion you still stay off your edges when I first started I would tape my edges and body lines and you can do it both ways dry and wet
@@VinylVillageGarage I have a ingersoll rand 3/32 sander I bought off Amazon I bought a tape kit from Amazon with different widths of tape amd my interface pads I buy from harbor freight there like $10 I usually don't have bad orange peel because I use alot of the finish 1 fc740 clear my process in sanding is 1,200 1,500 2,000 2,500 3,000 then buff with meguiars m100 pro cut compound
Just found your channel. I'm a 67-68 Cougar guy myself, but that doesn't matter, your passion is what reeled me in. I really like the way you explain every detail. Same thing in your paint video. FYI, Linear Blocking Tools offers wet sand paper in sticky back for blocks.
I appreciate that! thanks for the tip too. most of what I do has been self taught and learned a lot the hard way. but those experiences got me where I am today.
Great job, my brother, the car looks amazing. People need to realize that even if they get their carpainted. In a bodyvshop they will not go this far, and if they do really go this far, it will cost more money because this is the step that nobody takes when it comes to a greatpaint job .
Your car will be nothing short of awesome! I'm really looking forward to watching you put it back together and learning a whole bunch more. Your a true inspiration.
@@VinylVillageGarage There is something to be said for an old car in original paint regardless of how it looks. I love driving crappy cars for my daily drivers. It's so relaxing. I do love the look of a nice paint job though. It's tough.
@@VinylVillageGarage I didn’t even want to mention the valance. I’d rather do sport mirrors than those lol. Looking awesome tho. Love the color and the fact it’s an honest street car. Not that a 455 HO with the goodies isn’t. This will go get you anywhere with zero troubles. I love it.
I have mostly new AMD panels, how necessary is high build primer over the epoxy? I haven’t watched all your videos yet, but I’ll be checking them out for all the steps.
@@acardiac5983 lets start with epoxy is the foundation for all the body work. So filler will be necessary in some areas no way around that. And to blend filler the high build does that, in addition even AMD panels need some work to get them “straight” again a nice even coat of high build on the entire panel then block it out will ensure a nice smooth panel. The goal is not to sand thru your base epoxy while doing body work.
That really came out looking nice Jon. Thanks for all the tips along the way. Great to see another firebird brought back to life. Fantastic restoration friend.
Gorgeous color. Looks identical to my all original paint 1980 Fiero Bronze Trans Am one year only color. Wish I could figure out how to post a pic of it. Your work is super impressive.
@@VinylVillageGarage It’s been smoking hot down here for sure and humid big time, none the less you are doing great work , such valuable info you are passing along , Thanks for all of it
Wonderful video, really happy for you that it's working out. So looking forward to your video of the vinyl top. Please include where you got the vinyl top from. Your hilarious, "We get to see your junk in the garage through the paint reflection. Keep saving those Birds!
Love the color! Great attention to detail, especially not when to use water. Like your videos. I had a painter teach me to use soapy water the soap acts as a lubricant and the water stays on better.
Your skill level is amazing. Enjoyed seeing this. It helps that you laid the paint down very well. I could never do it to your level. I love sanding, and buffing for the surprise shine. It’s a lot of fun. A+++ here. What fun.
May I make a suggestion, keep the pad damp, not wet. Call it insurance that you are not going to burn thru. Pressure has a lot to do with the process. Lite pressure (enough for control) allow the tools or sand paper to do the work
I've never seen an Autumn Bronze car, just the color on the chart. Wow! Awesome build, always look forward to your latest videos. I asked for your help on spark plug gap a few weeks ago and I went with your suggestion of 45. Got the new plugs in, and my '68 runs great! Thanks for your help!
Hey Bud, The car looks very good, very shiny, and Laser straight...good job. can't wait to see the finished product. I hit the like, and subscribe button so I'll be notified when your next video is out. till then thanks for sharing. From your new friends here in Lima Peru George & my wife Carmen
Great job!👍 I really admire your attention to details on the car, and information you share on the build. Its helped me on a few spots on my car when doing restoration/repairs. Keep up the great work. And look foward to the maiden voyage.
Yet another great video! I’m not quite there yet, but I’ll reference this in the future when I take my first crack at it. The only thing I’d recommend is if you mention a product that works well for you, I’d love to see the name or a link to the product in the video description so we can try it too. I think I’m going to start on my 10 year old lawn mower to get some practice before I touch my bird.
Mentioning Linear Blocking Tools again. They use guide coat on clear coat to get it super flat. The have sticky back wet sandpaper down to 600. I've purchased their finishing blocks and finishing sandpaper, but haven't used it yet 😞. Another outstanding video! Ty
Now that could be helpful! After your last mention of linear blocks I have done some looking and pricing I believe when it’s time to block again I will give them a try.
I may be wrong with this comment, but I was looking at my pneumatic DA sander. It looks like the Dual Action part is simply having the pad stud threaded hole slightly off center so the pad oscillates as it rotates. It is not much, maybe 1/8" offset for a 1/4" diam oscillation. Watching you explain your polisher being a non-DA I was thinking if you put your pad slightly offset from center it may turn it into a DA buffer/polisher. I have a non-DA DeWalt buffer also and struggle getting the pads dead center. Maybe that is a good thing to be off center to give some dual action buffing.
I seem to get lucky and center it up, most buffer pads come with a cardboard tube to help center them. I really like my dewalt buffer had for several years I suppose I am just stuck in my ways. I know if it dies I might try a DA buffer next time
I waited 2 weeks, some clears you only have 48 hours to sand! so check your data sheet. I like to give the paint time to “shrink” and cure before sanding it. I would also be fine with it sitting for a couple months if I had time
Yup that is it. For the price it hasn’t failed me yet. I know there is better out there but the price goes with it. Flip side the cheaper stuff just doesn’t polish up as nice. Again this is my pick for the money. You will need dcx61 hardener and dt870 reducer to go with it. It’s mixed 4:1:1
Hi Jon, I really had difficulties to understand the process of painting, mainly because there are so many contradicting opinions and options. I really love your series on painting "The Pumpkin", nobody explains it as good and down to earth as you. However, the chronology is a bit hard to follow since you crank out so many good videos with the painting videos in between :) May I ask if I get you right: 1. Sandblasting 2. Epoxy Primer 3. Fillers, Sanding 4. Polyester Primer, Sanding 5. Epoxy Primer again (the same?) 6. Base Coat 7. Clear Coat 8. Cutting And Buffing? Thank you!
Yup you got it! The sealer coat is the same epoxy but reduced with acetone and only one thin coat. This is the process I have used and has passed the test of time. The lemans I just sold i did nearly 20 years ago and the paint was holding up great and no rust issues, plus it sat outdoors for 5 of those years
I have a local automotive paint shop I get them. One of the advantages of living in the city I suppose. As for the pads I rinse them out with water then I have a drawer in my tool box only for buffing pads I keep them in after placing them back in an open plastic bag.
Just found the channel, love your video. Very clear. I'm at the 180 stage, so a way to go till I get to paint and buffing. But can you explain why you tilt the pad? Is it because this is not a DA but just a rotary ...... or ...? Does it minimise swirls that way?
You are correct flipping a D/A buffer on its side is not a good idea. I am a bit old school and use a rotary buffer still. Can’t say my technique is what is taught or correct it just works for me. I run mine at a slow speed as well. It’s just trial and error till I figured out what gave me the best results. No matter what buffer you go with stay away from body lines and edges the paint is the thinnest in those areas and will easily burn thru
@@VinylVillageGarage well I had my firebird parked and while it sit I covered it with a tarp and tucke it in the front well it rusted out my front fender bolt holes that bolts to fender extension so I need a piece made with the bolt holes make into it so I could weld onto my fender driverside
That’s a factory 1968 Firebird color called Autumn bronze. I had my paint guy pull that up by name and he was able to find the mix for me and wow does it look great! It’s a metallic base with 3 coats of clear
On the final paint job, I use just a tiny bit of sealer. like a 32 ounce or some like that. As for the basecoat and clearcoat, I use a gallon of each now that still needed reduced and I had just a little bit left over and that got me three coats of color and four coats of clear.
Kinda, the process is exactly the same if it’s sold Color without metallic flake. If you sand metallic single stage paints it might expose some of the flakes and cause the paint to look uneven. If it’s metallic proceed with caution
@@VinylVillageGarage indeed its the same color. My 82 c10 Squarebody was painted this color once already. I'm repainting it again in a couple weeks. Just looking around to see how it looks fresh painted to give myself an idea of how it'll look.
@@VinylVillageGarage I want to thank you for these videos for the garage mechanic. I just started my 68 camaro project and I'm a mechanic not a body guy but I'm gonna learn on this one...
![ROSÉ (로제) - number one girl [더 시즌즈-이영지의 레인보우] | KBS 241129 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/A9oByH9Ci24/mqdefault.jpg)
A little dish-wash or car-wash soap mixed in the water makes wetsanding a little easier and the sandpaper lasts longer
Yes sir, thank you! I do appreciate sharing the knowledge
Next time . After the first coat of color dries. drag a piece of assilex kovax 600-1200 grit pads to make the surface flat and it will knock down all those nibs in the color . Even use a slightly damp lint free cloths and then lightly blow and tack and you will be ready for the rest of the base coats. Otherwise anything in the base color will show up even after the clear is sanded flat. You did a nice job . Nice to see someone teaching correctly.
Right on man, thanks!! Will do on the next one. It will have stripes so should be fun
@@VinylVillageGarage i've done plenty of those on 69 camaro and 69 & 70 chevelle's always in single stage black or white.
Jon, Jon, JJJJJOOOONNN!!!! Stop using the car as a work bench!!!!! Lol!
The best advice I can offer when painting a car in your garage, is to have multiple temp reducers and start as early in the morning as you can, like 4:30am. That way, when you get to the clear, it’s still cool enough and by the time you are done, the heat will act like an oven bake. This of course is when you paint in late spring through summer.
Next, I would recommend using a dry DA with 1200, it will knock all the texture out and saves your arms from hand sanding. Obviously stay away from the edges and glide over them with 1500. And, use the 1500, 2000, and 3000 trizact wet on a DA. Makes life so much easier.
Awesome work though my friend! The Great Pumpkin looks ready for the prom!
thanks for the advice. I just fake it till i make it sometimes and learn a lot the hard way. so helpful input is welcome. I have been contemplating upgrading to a DA for the sanding part, I have seen a handful of people using it and looks handy for sure, but man my forearms are looking so jacked after all the sanding on this car 😎
Its SHOW time!
I could not agree more
About to do this to my 67’ but I’m formerly a car dealer and this was a little trade secret. On our cheaper cash cars we could send them to get a 300 macco special
They always came out looking orange peeled but even with just a single stage paint job you can do this and make it look like a much higher end paint job
A lot of paint jobs can be cleaned up with a little cut and buff. The trick is there enough material on the car to cut.
Man you are working it for sure I don't paint correct by hand at all anymore I use a orbital finish sander with a interface pad
I don’t trust myself with a power sander for that stage. Debate it many times and i Watched many people do it with success but I just don’t know if I can as well
@@VinylVillageGarage it's not as bad as you think when you use the interface pad you have a cushion you still stay off your edges when I first started I would tape my edges and body lines and you can do it both ways dry and wet
@@rongamble9884 I like the tape idea and I am doing a white car next might give it a go. Any suggestions or link to a brand you use?
@@VinylVillageGarage I have a ingersoll rand 3/32 sander I bought off Amazon I bought a tape kit from Amazon with different widths of tape amd my interface pads I buy from harbor freight there like $10 I usually don't have bad orange peel because I use alot of the finish 1 fc740 clear my process in sanding is 1,200 1,500 2,000 2,500 3,000 then buff with meguiars m100 pro cut compound
@rongamble9884 wow thanks for the info and I love the meguiars products it’s all I use for buffing. Appreciate your time and advice, thanks
Just found your channel. I'm a 67-68 Cougar guy myself, but that doesn't matter, your passion is what reeled me in. I really like the way you explain every detail. Same thing in your paint video. FYI, Linear Blocking Tools offers wet sand paper in sticky back for blocks.
I appreciate that! thanks for the tip too. most of what I do has been self taught and learned a lot the hard way. but those experiences got me where I am today.
Great job, my brother, the car looks amazing. People need to realize that even if they get their carpainted. In a bodyvshop they will not go this far, and if they do really go this far, it will cost more money because this is the step that nobody takes when it comes to a greatpaint job .
this definitely adds time to the build but the results are worth it.
Looks great. I saw this color on a lot of Buick Century's and GS's back in the day.
Very cool! I thinks it’s a fantastic color
Coming in late on some of your videos.. nice steps taken in this process. Car looks very good considering its a hobbiest garage paint job. Kudos!
Thanks 👍
Best cut and buff on RUclips,clearly explained,you should have way more views man,thanks for the upload 👍🏼
I appreciate that!
Looking Great! Your garage paint job looks better than some "professional" ones I've seen!
Thanks. It takes a little more effort but the results speak for themself. I feel this car should hold it’s own at a show.
I really appreciate you sharing you knowledge all throughout this series.
It’s been quite the journey for this old bird but now it will proudly stand with the rest of them now. Super happy with the results
Wow look awesome Jeff
Thanks
Wow!!! I thought it looked great before. That is a show quality paint job. 👍
I think so too! and now you know how to do the same.
That is a beautiful color and paint job. Great work. Someday I hope to be at your level with body work.
Lots of practice, so that means you need to buy more firebirds 😁
Your car will be nothing short of awesome! I'm really looking forward to watching you put it back together and learning a whole bunch more. Your a true inspiration.
the best car I have built, having a good time sharing this cars revival and getting close to the end. thanks!
Looks awesome so far. If I were doing that much work to the paint I wouldn't want to drive it. Too many stones flying around out there.
Lol I know what you mean. It’s like the first rock chip just crushes your entire being.
@@VinylVillageGarage There is something to be said for an old car in original paint regardless of how it looks. I love driving crappy cars for my daily drivers. It's so relaxing. I do love the look of a nice paint job though. It's tough.
Man I love that color and whole smokes she looks good Brother!!!!!
Thanks. I never want this car to go away. This Color and finish I find even myself just staring at it.
I love it!!!
It’s strangely satisfying. Especially when it’s done. Rockers suck lol
Indeed rockers and front lower valance. Part of the reason I left it on jack stands, so much gooder
@@VinylVillageGarage I didn’t even want to mention the valance. I’d rather do sport mirrors than those lol. Looking awesome tho. Love the color and the fact it’s an honest street car. Not that a 455 HO with the goodies isn’t. This will go get you anywhere with zero troubles. I love it.
That’s very impressive! I’ll be doing my first garage paint job on my 69 Dart.
Heck yeah! You can still get great results
Too. What kind of paint are you using?
I have mostly new AMD panels, how necessary is high build primer over the epoxy? I haven’t watched all your videos yet, but I’ll be checking them out for all the steps.
@@acardiac5983 lets start with epoxy is the foundation for all the body work. So filler will be necessary in some areas no way around that. And to blend filler the high build does that, in addition even AMD panels need some work to get them “straight” again a nice even coat of high build on the entire panel then block it out will ensure a nice smooth panel. The goal is not to sand thru your base epoxy while doing body work.
That really came out looking nice Jon. Thanks for all the tips along the way. Great to see another firebird brought back to life. Fantastic restoration friend.
I am very pleased with the results, each time I do one of these it seems to get better and better. Thanks friend for following along
Man what a beautiful car! Looks freaking awesome!!!! Good job.
Thanks a ton!
Gorgeous color. Looks identical to my all original paint 1980 Fiero Bronze Trans Am one year only color. Wish I could figure out how to post a pic of it. Your work is super impressive.
I really like it as well. Might be the same color 🤷♂️. Unfortunately RUclips you can’t post pictures in the comments. Do you still have the TransAm?
Love your garage paint job...!!
Thank you! I can’t complain either.
Awesome it's going to look beautiful when you finish great work 👍👍👍👍
I think this is the best car I have built to date and really going to miss it when it’s gone
@@VinylVillageGarage I bet, thanks for sharing all your videos of it .
As an old school paint 2 thumbs up
Much appreciated, I know painting at home has it faults but over all this one exceeded my expectations.
Beautiful job 👍
Many many thanks
Even in cold weather, I always use hot thinner. Would rather deal with runs then orange peel plus you are not as rushed to get the paint on.
I have debated that for a long time. Might just go that way myself. Thanks
Definitely gooderful!
too funny!! thanks for being a true fan
Great job,nice shine
Thanks 😎
That is amazing, great looking paint
Thanks Buddy, it got way to hot when I was painting 94 degrees still came out. How has the temps Been there? Of course your shop has A/C
@@VinylVillageGarage It’s been smoking hot down here for sure and humid big time, none the less you are doing great work , such valuable info you are passing along , Thanks for all of it
@@davidbisnette7673 very welcome friend
Wonderful video, really happy for you that it's working out. So looking forward to your video of the vinyl top. Please include where you got the vinyl top from. Your hilarious, "We get to see your junk in the garage through the paint reflection. Keep saving those Birds!
I have ordered a second top because I am convinced my first one is not for a f-body car. I will keep you posted
Great job!! 👏🏻
Thank you!! 😁
Very sweet!
Thanks! This color is awesome
That’s scary to think you sand the new paint off to make it look better, but it worked and looks great!!
It’s a tried and true method,
So far no burn thru either
Awesome work as always
Much appreciated! thanks
Outstanding!
Thank you kindly!
#beautiful Well Done!
Not bad for a garage paint job
Love the color! Great attention to detail, especially not when to use water. Like your videos. I had a painter teach me to use soapy water the soap acts as a lubricant and the water stays on better.
I have been told the same and used to use it. Not entirely sure why I don’t anymore. I will consider using it next time.
Absolutely love your work.
Thank you very much!
Awesome.
Thanks buddy. Running out of time to make it to the trans am nationals
Looks good man
Thanks
Looks amazing John!!! You really know how to paint well! 👍🏽
thanks! not to bad for a garage job
nice
Thanks
Great content !
thanks!! I love playing cars.
Mint
thanks! looks great in the garage and can only get Better outside
Your skill level is amazing. Enjoyed seeing this. It helps that you laid the paint down very well. I could never do it to your level. I love sanding, and buffing for the surprise shine. It’s a lot of fun. A+++ here. What fun.
Thank you so much! you can do the next one if you want 😎
The car is looking great
Thanks. I hope to have the entire car done soon.
Well Done Sir!
thanks, love this color
Outstanding job! Keep up the great work!
Thanks!
Really nice job Jon !
Thank you for your expertise and time !!
My pleasure! Getting close to having this one done.
May I make a suggestion, keep the pad damp, not wet. Call it insurance that you are not going to burn thru. Pressure has a lot to do with the process. Lite pressure (enough for control) allow the tools or sand paper to do the work
definitely will keep that in mind thanks
You did a really great job !! Car looks fantastic!!
Thanks a bunch!
how do you clean the foam pad? I have used the wool pads and there is a tool with a wheel on it that cleans the old compound off. Thanks
I suppose there might be a way. I keep it in a sealed plastic bag when done to Keep clean. Then just use it the next time
Great information! You are doing a fantastic job!
Thank you!
I've never seen an Autumn Bronze car, just the color on the chart. Wow! Awesome build, always look forward to your latest videos.
I asked for your help on spark plug gap a few weeks ago and I went with your suggestion of 45. Got the new plugs in, and my '68 runs great!
Thanks for your help!
Glad to help and happy the hear your car is running great!
45..iS not optimal...depends on quench,cam compression
I wet sand so no build up...but you explained why you dont with first grit. I ALSO RUN TAPE OVER BODY LINE so dont sand thru
Use a 5 gallon bucket and clean towel...again no build up
@@shawnbaird2015 HEI distributor and he was told .060 gap because it was update to hei. I suggested .045
Great tutorial and beautiful results, thanks Jon!
My pleasure! now it’s time you get back to your bird
Hey Bud,
The car looks very good, very shiny, and Laser straight...good job. can't wait to see the finished product. I hit the like, and subscribe button so I'll be notified when your next video is out. till then thanks for sharing. From your new friends here in Lima Peru
George & my wife Carmen
huge thanks for subscribing! I really appreciate it. plenty more builds and projects to come.
@@VinylVillageGarage Thank you
Great job!👍 I really admire your attention to details on the car, and information you share on the build. Its helped me on a few spots on my car when doing restoration/repairs. Keep up the great work. And look foward to the maiden voyage.
Awesome, thank you! I can’t wait to roll this thing out of the garage for the first time
How about the overspray going on the cars outside
It happens, that’s why you don’t see the wife’s 2022 mailbu out there in the driveway
Yet another great video! I’m not quite there yet, but I’ll reference this in the future when I take my first crack at it. The only thing I’d recommend is if you mention a product that works well for you, I’d love to see the name or a link to the product in the video description so we can try it too. I think I’m going to start on my 10 year old lawn mower to get some practice before I touch my bird.
That mower will
Look amazing!!! Not a bad idea actually 🤔
Mentioning Linear Blocking Tools again. They use guide coat on clear coat to get it super flat. The have sticky back wet sandpaper down to 600. I've purchased their finishing blocks and finishing sandpaper, but haven't used it yet 😞. Another outstanding video! Ty
Now that could be helpful! After your last mention of linear blocks I have done some looking and pricing I believe when it’s time to block again I will give them a try.
@@VinylVillageGarage I just remembered a discount code for theses blocks "scinsta"
I may be wrong with this comment, but I was looking at my pneumatic DA sander. It looks like the Dual Action part is simply having the pad stud threaded hole slightly off center so the pad oscillates as it rotates. It is not much, maybe 1/8" offset for a 1/4" diam oscillation. Watching you explain your polisher being a non-DA I was thinking if you put your pad slightly offset from center it may turn it into a DA buffer/polisher. I have a non-DA DeWalt buffer also and struggle getting the pads dead center. Maybe that is a good thing to be off center to give some dual action buffing.
I seem to get lucky and center it up, most buffer pads come with a cardboard tube to help center them. I really like my dewalt buffer had for several years I suppose I am just stuck in my ways. I know if it dies I might try a DA buffer next time
Eliminate sanding. Remove orange peel with a denim buffing pad.
I haven’t heard of this one yet. I will do some research. You are the second person today to tell me about it
Great video as always tons of great info. Look forward to every one. Did you get the vinyl top to fit right?
I believe the top I have is packaged wrong or poorly made. I have ordered another one to see if it’s better
💪😎
👍😎
Looks great J Lots more comments than usual here too, the flock approves..! How much time between last clear coat & feeling safe to color sand ??
I waited 2 weeks, some clears you only have 48 hours to sand! so check your data sheet. I like to give the paint time to “shrink” and cure before sanding it. I would also be fine with it sitting for a couple months if I had time
Hi Jon, In the video you mentioned you strictly use PPG 2042. Is the full title DCU2042 PPG Deltron Clearcoat? Runs approximately $350/gal. Thanks.
Yup that is it. For the price it hasn’t failed me yet. I know there is better out there but the price goes with it. Flip side the cheaper stuff just doesn’t polish up as nice. Again this is my pick for the money. You will need dcx61 hardener and dt870 reducer to go with it. It’s mixed 4:1:1
Thanks Buddy!
Hi Jon, I really had difficulties to understand the process of painting, mainly because there are so many contradicting opinions and options. I really love your series on painting "The Pumpkin", nobody explains it as good and down to earth as you. However, the chronology is a bit hard to follow since you crank out so many good videos with the painting videos in between :) May I ask if I get you right: 1. Sandblasting 2. Epoxy Primer 3. Fillers, Sanding 4. Polyester Primer, Sanding 5. Epoxy Primer again (the same?) 6. Base Coat 7. Clear Coat 8. Cutting And Buffing? Thank you!
Yup you got it! The sealer coat is the same epoxy but reduced with acetone and only one thin coat. This is the process I have used and has passed the test of time. The lemans I just sold i did nearly 20 years ago and the paint was holding up great and no rust issues, plus it sat outdoors for 5 of those years
Where do you get your buffing pads from? And how are you cleaning them
I have a local automotive paint shop I get them. One of the advantages of living in the city I suppose. As for the pads I rinse them out with water then I have a drawer in my tool box only for buffing pads I keep them in after placing them back in an open plastic bag.
Just found the channel, love your video. Very clear. I'm at the 180 stage, so a way to go till I get to paint and buffing. But can you explain why you tilt the pad? Is it because this is not a DA but just a rotary ...... or ...? Does it minimise swirls that way?
You are correct flipping a D/A buffer on its side is not a good idea. I am a bit old school and use a rotary buffer still. Can’t say my technique is what is taught or correct it just works for me. I run mine at a slow speed as well. It’s just trial and error till I figured out what gave me the best results. No matter what buffer you go with stay away from body lines and edges the paint is the thinnest in those areas and will easily burn thru
@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks mate, appreciate the quick response. Keep up the great work, and best wishes from the UK.
@@kevinwells768 anytime.
Do you know where I could find a fender
Few and far between for good ones it seems. The reproduction 1969 have fitment issues. Facebook market place is ok.
@@VinylVillageGarage well I had my firebird parked and while it sit I covered it with a tarp and tucke it in the front well it rusted out my front fender bolt holes that bolts to fender extension so I need a piece made with the bolt holes make into it so I could weld onto my fender driverside
What color is that do you have a color code is it a solid base with clear I want to paint mine that color
That’s a factory 1968 Firebird color called Autumn bronze. I had my paint guy pull that up by name and he was able to find the mix for me and wow does it look great! It’s a metallic base with 3 coats of clear
Looking great. I am wondering how much of each of stages, primer, base color and clear did you end up using?
Thanks. What if did was one coat of sealer, 3 coats of Color then 4 coats of clear. Normally I do 3 clear when it’s cooler outside.
@@VinylVillageGarage I guess I was asking how much should I buy?
On the final paint job, I use just a tiny bit of sealer. like a 32 ounce or some like that. As for the basecoat and clearcoat, I use a gallon of each now that still needed reduced and I had just a little bit left over and that got me three coats of color and four coats of clear.
@@VinylVillageGarage Sweet that helps alot! Thanks
If you use a single stage paint is the cut and buff process the same?
Kinda, the process is exactly the same if it’s sold Color without metallic flake. If you sand metallic single stage paints it might expose some of the flakes and cause the paint to look uneven. If it’s metallic proceed with caution
@@VinylVillageGarage how many single stage coats would be applied, just one. Not sure how it works
68 corvette bronze?
very well could be the same color. Pontiac called it autumn bronze
@@VinylVillageGarage indeed its the same color. My 82 c10 Squarebody was painted this color once already. I'm repainting it again in a couple weeks. Just looking around to see how it looks fresh painted to give myself an idea of how it'll look.
Do it yourself and save some bucks! Yup thats my life...
and sounds like a good plan to me. plus the challenge makes it even more rewarding
@@VinylVillageGarage I want to thank you for these videos for the garage mechanic. I just started my 68 camaro project and I'm a mechanic not a body guy but I'm gonna learn on this one...
@@Kyle_Nelson glad to help or at least give a little insight on a rebuild
I use a temp gun to see the temp of the metal bud...air temp is not body temp.
Not a bad idea at all, thanks
👋
Beautiful work!
Thanks might be one of the nicest 350 birds out there when done
@VinylVillageGarage agreed 100%. It's better than factory due to your attention to detail.
@@bradsrestorations1085 yes sir get all you can done well and spend a little more time to make it as nice as possible is how I like to do them