I just realized Jessie's parents are the hard working couple helping Andrew Camarata with the interior of his container castle. The work ethic runs through the family I guess.
It’s possible Jesse helped Andrew weld his roof? Or maybe that was Chris from NoNonsenseKnowHow. These amazing gentlemen are unbelievable in their skill and tenacity. I’m pretty sure these guys all know each other
Jesse is so interesting with his work projects, explains everything in the simplest way, even an old guy like me can learn from him. Thank you Jesse, Lina (my wife) thinks Noah is delightful. God bless you all. Bob. (Veteran). NZ
In my one shop, I put 2 set ups of vacuum tubes to the floor heat 700sqft sub grade with footing walls above floor, the unit LP heater never kicks on unless I turn it way up or leave it up at nite only because I don't want to wait for higher temps in the morning, big wood stove in the back hall addition, have water and sewer in there so I keep it heated. Everything I have is LP and that saves allot instead of natural gas, 2 320gls and 1 1000 gls this year I paid 1.399 and house 1850 sq ft every thing here is gas and if I go crazy heating 3 garages I use maybe 1100 gls, but when I only used the 1000/900 gls in ground tank for the house it lasted more than a years way better than when I had natural gas. It was like 350$ to 450$ per month in the winter and that was 20 years ago.
I have the 24k BTU system. From June 20th to today, it used 1.4 megawatts of solar to cool my place! More than paid for itself in my opinion. Fett ng three more in the new year for the tax credits!
12:24 you forgot to move the drain to the line side. You may get water backing up and dripping. Also, if you do have that happen, get rid of the corrugated drain line they supply and use straint pipe or at least solid tube. Just a tip, cause it leaked on my install due to a very small bump in the corrugated tube
The drainage pipe can be moved to the other side of the block, where the copper pipes come out. This way the drainage will drain better and will not stagnate in the pipe and will not form mold.
I installed one 9 months ago on my home. It has saved 1.3MWH 🙌. And it's 3 x more efficient than my electric baseboard heat. It will pay for itself this winter
this has a COP of around 8 so you should be getting 8x more efficiency than a baseboard heat. that kind of depends on how cold it is outside though, so the average is what you would be after
How cold does it get where you live tho? I live in the Yukon and temps are around -13f to -30f all winter long. Wondering if it stays efficient at these temps?
Another epic informative video, Jesse. This EG4 system is definitely better than your standard Mister Cool units as you have the added PV connectivity. I had to laugh when you mentioned the Degrees Celsius & Fahrenheit choice, haha. Us British viewers all had a little cry. Your core drill was definitely a worthy investment, and it's paid for itself. It must of got colder there as Noah got dressed up. You should get royalties from EG4 for the positive brand placement
Great video Jesse!! Really wish my units had those refrigerant connectors in place of the flares, seem more resilient and less finicky. And they have a unit available that comes with 7 solar panels so if this was someones first good and adding any kind of solar, they already have you covered. My one suggestion would be to get the condensate drain to outside as directly as possible and then into a vertical pvc pipe using a Type LB conduit body, so it is easy to clean that out later, both down and in towards the indoor unit since those condensate lines seem to like to get plugged up and then back up to make the indoor units tray overflow inside. Have a good one!! 👍
That awesome I like the fact you don't need any engineers to install the units. I am on ongoing renovation in my place when I finish I definitely will install one in my place thanks a lot for sharing with us 👍 👍
Imho boiler without automatic control is a mess, you have to remember to backfill several times a day and night, stockpile dry wood, watch out for fires from the chimney and soot, etc. Go into all-electric heating. You can put some solar tracer with those nice looking bifacial solar panels, between electric post and small garage. Here in Poland about 80% of heat pumps in houses are air-to-water type(here ground heat exchangers are very expensive), with a buffer tank with an additional electric heater in case of big frost. If there is a heat exchanger with a large area(like underfloor heating) water at the outlet does not have to be as hot as for standard radiators, and the efficiency is good, concrete also accumulates a lot of heat. Here new solid fuel boilers are mostly for pellets(compressed biofuel, wood shavings, willow, grain, etc, Pastilles are fed automatically, the bunker refilled once a week.), or for natural or LPG gas.
My buddy way up north and I got a wood boiler for his place nice used $1500. but the d@m thing used 4 times the amount of wood, it was crazy. He sold it and just went back to using his fire place burner, way more heat 1/3 of wood used for the year, warmer and is nice seeing the wood burn in the living room. The outdoor boiler held like 200gls of glycol which is crazy. He was using 20 cords a year with that thing, other wise 6/7 cords.
I’m super excited to see how you end up liking these!!! Please keep us updated!!! I’ve had my eye on one for a while. I’m interested in several of them if they are worth it.
If you want to have a lower temperature, use a line voltage air conditioning thermosat, that will disconnect power supply. ps: I have heard of people having issues with condensate drain tube sagging and getting blocked when the itis run horizontal behind the indoor unit the way you did. There is a removable plug that allows the drain tube to be relacated to the same end of the drain pan as the refrigerant tubes.
hello, yes, good observation. Some thing else i would like to add, the drain tube can be very easily switched from left to right, and this prevents connecting, the extension tube on the inside, some times the connection between the main drain tube and the extension can leak and it might be problematic -especially if it is inside the wall-. Having sedd that, the extension tube as shown in the video, is visible on the inside so fixing a leaky connection shoudn't be that hard. thank you, and good luck
Outdoor units, when it's a heap pump, in cold climate needs to elevated off the ground so that condensate has a place to go. You need to re think your approach to pulling line sets, stub in a little from the outside, make the connections and pull out the extra instead of struggling the way you did
I think you could move the condensation line to the other side of the Evaporator Unit. There is a plug on both sides (I think). It might have been a good idea to use Nylog thread sealant on all those line connectors. Something else you might have considered is mounting the condenser off the ground right behind the Evaporator and you might not have needed the extra refrigerant line. One other thing, that indoor evaporator is going to get dirty very quickly running in your garage. I would check it regularly because it might need regular cleaning to keep it operating efficiently. Nice Job! You do great things....
In one of my 5 garages I used drywall on the ceiling, but my point is for the mud I used the better white thin set for tile on the seems and screws. Drywall mud in the cold will come off kinda, this has held up perfect, that garage I heat allot but not all the time and does hit below zero here plenty.
Very neat system, AC is mostly needed when the sun is out. A drawback is that you cant do anything else with the solar power that goes into the AC unit, like feeding it to a battery ( alot of time there will be decent solar power but you dont need AC yet). But this system is as easy as it gets.
These should be more popular than they are , especially down south were there is a lot of sun, a lot of heat and blackouts due to a/c eating up the energy..
We've been considering a similar unit for our house mostly as an additional way to heat when we're tired of hauling in wood for the wood stove. But having the dehumidifier to keep the house drier during the wet season (basically all year long except for the 3 weeks of fall here in the Upstate), would be very nice. We rarely need the A/C here, and the dehumidifier function will drop the temps by 10 degrees anyway. We just got an awesome deal on some good used 540 Watt Bifacial panels a few weeks ago and have a bunch extra that would work great with this....
Yea these work really great for dehumidification . When I turned mine on that mode there was a constant stream of water coming out of the condensate line and it was only using between 3-400 watts
Can't stress maintenance enough with any mini-split. The supplied filters are virtually useless so the blower wheel catches everything. At least once a year get in there and clean your blower, especially in dirty or humid environments.
Pretty cool but wouldn’t you want a dedicated solar array for the shop instead of individual ones? That way you have one centralized system for all the shop power and to feed your battery bank.
for the temperature limitation, you could get a wireless IR transmitter, and hook it up to a temp sensor, then you could automate it to send the remote signal for power on/power off at specific temperatures, work around for the system limitation.
If you're not cooling 24/7, you can save quite a bit by setting up a pair of temperature controlled vents which open when the inside is quite a bit hotter than the outside. For a lot of days, that's really all you need.
I only use AC for one or 2 weeks a year - the rest of the time, I do exactly that - open the windows at night and use box fans to draw in the cool air. Shut the windows and turn off the fans in the morning just before the sun comes up and keep them closed. The house stays pretty cool unless it's stupidly hot out for multiple days in a row
61 is minimum in cooling mode(61-90), in heating mode 32-90, in dry 50-90. But air temperature at the opposite corner of the garage from the unit can be several degrees different, watch out for frost in floor pipes, etc.
Jesse, the Sun is actually closer to the Earth in the Winter than it is in the Summer. Counter-intuitive, I know. Because the Earth is tilted on its axis 28 degrees, the axis is tilted such that the Northern Hemisphere (where US is) is tilted more towards the Sun. Even though it is farther away, the solar intensity is greater. It is also why Australia, being in the Southern Hemisphere, is having their Winter when we are having our Summer. In our Winter, the axis of the Earth is tilted away such that the Northern Hemisphere has its solar energy more diffuse, while it is more focused on the Southern Hemisphere and Australia is having its Summer.
Been thinking of a small system for my garden office and home good to see what's available... We've got gas fired heating but that's no good when it's 100 Fahrenheit and your on a call for work 😂
To get to a lower cold weather maintenance temperature install a SEPARATE temperature on/off on the power in the unit so the power turns off when the temp reaches your desired "away mode" level. This should work so long as the unit comes "alive" when it gets power. Isolate that controller when you are in "home mode". Someone else suggested similar.
You have to have the unit in heat mode to get to the lower temperatures to protect from freezing. I think that you had it in AC mode when you were testing.
no it was in heat mode. maybe there is a setting to keep things from freezing but I couldnt find it. I have been in heat mode for a while, and 61 is the lowest it goes. But I can control it remotely so I can just turn it on for a few hours a day if I am away
Check to see if there is a Freeze Protection option on the remote, "FP" that mode will keep the garage above freezing, if your unit has this setting. I know my Mr. Cool units and Pioneer units have this setting.
I'm not sure if it will work with a mini split, but there is a company called cool bot that makes a conversion kit you can install in your A/C system. It will take over the controls of your system so you can decrease the minimum temperature significantly, to the point you can use an A/C unit to cool a walk in refrigerator, which by the way would be great for hanging your livestock to age or store your garden vegetables.
They make a square line cover to enclose the lines, electric, condensate, etc.. they run a few hundred, their only real plus is they keep the sun/UV exposure off the line set insulation, which eventually breaks down because of UV. I had my Mitsubishi 48K BTU unit mounted on a wall mount bracket, the low hum in my bedroom drove me insane, I eventually cribbed up 4X4’s and filled the structure with crushed stone and lowered the unit on top of it, isolating it from the structure.. I can sleep, again 😬. The other advantage of direct solar to the mini split is, if you’re grid tied, it won’t affect the maximum size of your system, which for most of us is around 10KW of AC (because of transformer size of the utility), it also takes load of your PV system…
Jesse, 1:02:00 ish. There is an override for window units to make them into freezer units that small farms use. You can google or look the product up. Also, what in the heck happened to that side of your pops house?
1:01:47 The min temperature of 61 degrees F is probably just for the air conditioning. Try changing it to heating mode and I'm sure that you can set the temperature much lower.
@jmuller86 Yeah! That design is cool and subtle. I really thought it was a makita hoodie at first. I'm sure you got some more design ideas, and feel free to run them by us if you want before you make a bunch.
@@darinmorgante7200 I actually didnt design that. I had a viewer reach out and send me that. I told him I just need some time to get some ideas worked out and then I will probably start checking into getting a line of merch. I thought it was pretty clever, hopefully makita doesnt try to sue...but I dont think I am big enough for them to worry about
You should read the manual on the mini split for the minimum temp for heating. My unit has a separate mode to maintain ~46° for freeze prevention. I bet this unit has something similar.
My units have the same setting. I downloaded the manual for the unit Jesse installed and unfortunately it does not have that setting. Probably the only slight downside to these units, though I never use that setting anyways so it wouldn't matter to me, just install insulation and set the unit to 61 and be willing to spend a little extra money. I was thinking the same thing so just thought I would reply to you in case anyone else is wondering the same thing. Have a good one!! 👍
Great video as always Jessie. Was watching you hook up the outside unit to the panel and noticed to 2 objects attached to the left side of your panel. Believe they say LHOTSE brand. What are they? Thought it might be some wireless monitoring attachment for the breaker panel but not sure. Watched you video again on the garage electrical....they are not on the panel in that one. Just an old man's curiousity. Thanks again Jessie for the informational video.
maybe you can get a wood boiler, that can also burn waste oil???? that way whenever you're done changing oil in equipment and come back with 10 gallons of waste oil... you can just fire that stuff right off into the boiler over the course of a month of whatever.
Hi Jesse, do you already know that an air conditioner needs a yearly cleaning maintenance? If you clean the aluminum ribs where the cold/heat exchange takes place with a water+alcohol solution you remove all dust and dirt making the cold/heat exchange much more efficient. You need 1 gallon 50/50 solution and apply it with a (plant) sprayer.
Imagine if we all, looking at these videos would be there on site. We would not fit into carage. There would be arguing and pushing because so few would see, others would try to take a peak over shoulders.
Jesse - although you didn't show it, did you eventually put a grommet around the metal siding hole on your workshop install? Or is it not necessary (will the cables not move during a storm or windy day)? Thanks!
120 volt ac for 11.82 BTU per watt is pretty d@m good. Got a guy in Tomha WI that is selling solar vacuum tubes on a liquidation and has allot, don't let him jive you, I got two VT58 series with manifolds and frame kit for 700$ cash. He's on Market place and you know how they start really high with there pricing, for your parents place or yours.
You are truly amazing and your channel is worth watching, and the content is very useful, but despite that, your channel is still growing slowly I think that many viewers today on RUclips do not prefer a lot of explanation and commentary done by the owner of the content (the chatterbox). This is evidenced by the fact that there are many channels that are similar to your content and are mostly silent and achieve very high views Therefore, I advise you to limit explaining and commenting unless absolutely necessary. By doing so, I believe that your channel will achieve better viewing results. 👍👍👍❤👍👍👍
@@jmuller86 Andrew's channel also grew a bit slow in the beginning, if I remember correct. I like the combination of explanations and silent work, combined with fast motion where it is a bit more boring repetetive work. So I believe if you just keep doing what you already are doing, the channel will grow steadily. I also believe Andrew's "funny vids" where he drives over a car and similar might become somewhat viral, and help the subs grow quicker.
@@jmuller86 Actually, at your current subscriber base, you should be starting to climb even faster. There seems to be a tipping point once you hit like 200k then it really starts going. Keep at it as you are, Andrews videos are fairly unique due to his cinematography. Yours have benefitted quite a bit from the use of drone footage becoming more epic feeling. But, your channel is unique in that it is extremely informative and informational in an accessible way. Keep on keeping on Jesse!
@@jmuller86 Interestingly, I was looking through the manual for that unit about that and apparently the lineset that comes with the unit is actually "pre-charged", so it has refrigerant in it, but if you need to purchase an additional extension lineset, that comes "pre-vacuumed". So you end up with an extra joint (actually 2 joints) in your lineset if you need longer than 16 ft (and you may what to have some more refrigerant added for the extra lineset length). I still think I prefer their connectors though, over the typical flare connections used in most mini splits. Have a good one!! 👍
2x12 seems like gross overkill for hanging the indoor unit.. Could definitely get by with something lighter.. But if you have a 2x12 lying around, sure.. 🙂
@@jmuller86 Huh, well that's silly. Sorry for the misinformation, I guess I misunderstood the manual. You probably could, if you really wanted to, modify the unit. I would assume the temperature sensor is just a regular NTC thermistor which can be bodged. Not pretty but if needs be it will shift the value.. You can either add a resistor in series to increase the resistance or add one in parallel to lower resistance. BUT thermistors are not linear so you'd have to check it at certain temperatures to see what it is doing. And really think about it.
As an example first 10k NTC datasheet I came across outputs 19,9k at 50F, 12,49k 68F, 10K 77F. At 61F it should be around 15k. If you'd want to fake a hotter reading, you need to parallel resistor. If it is 77F and it's reading 10k, adding 47k in parallel equivalent resistance is 8.2k and it would read 85F. If it's 61F and it's reading 15k, 47k in parallel equals 11,37k and it reads 71F If it's 50F and it's reading 19,9k, 47k in parallel equals 13,98k and it reads 64F. Probably not worth the effort as thinking about this makes my brain hurt but you could do it if you really wanted to. Like I said, just need to document what the current one reads at different temperatures to guesstimate it's curve and then use a NTC calculator and resistor formulas to figure out the offset.
@@Lagittaja yea I get what you are saying and I could probably figure that out, but I think for ease of mind...if I am away I can control it remotely...so I can just turn it on for a few hours a day to keep it above freezing. can just do it remotely. Or I could shut the ac breaker off and just let the solar run it so its not wasting energy
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
I just realized Jessie's parents are the hard working couple helping Andrew Camarata with the interior of his container castle. The work ethic runs through the family I guess.
Is this recent interior work that Andrew is doing?
Don't see any related videos.
The castle, I thought, was finished quite a while ago.
@@andyloebrown8250the videos are on another channel run by the people doing the work.
It’s possible Jesse helped Andrew weld his roof? Or maybe that was Chris from NoNonsenseKnowHow. These amazing gentlemen are unbelievable in their skill and tenacity. I’m pretty sure these guys all know each other
Another good video Jesse cmom get the dream truck sorted❤
@@johnyb9884 Jesse did help weld the roof on Andrew's current castle.
Dude you are the most versatile do-it-yourselfer on RUclips hands down 👍👍
Jesse is so interesting with his work projects, explains everything in the simplest way, even an old guy like me can learn from him. Thank you Jesse, Lina (my wife) thinks Noah is delightful. God bless you all. Bob. (Veteran). NZ
Jessie have a enjoyable Thanksgiving Day with your family and friends, thank you for the wonderful entertainment much appreciated.
Nicely done. Oddly enough, every time I had a question, you answered it. I really enjoy your channel. Thanks.
In my one shop, I put 2 set ups of vacuum tubes to the floor heat 700sqft sub grade with footing walls above floor, the unit LP heater never kicks on unless I turn it way up or leave it up at nite only because I don't want to wait for higher temps in the morning, big wood stove in the back hall addition, have water and sewer in there so I keep it heated. Everything I have is LP and that saves allot instead of natural gas, 2 320gls and 1 1000 gls this year I paid 1.399 and house 1850 sq ft every thing here is gas and if I go crazy heating 3 garages I use maybe 1100 gls, but when I only used the 1000/900 gls in ground tank for the house it lasted more than a years way better than when I had natural gas. It was like 350$ to 450$ per month in the winter and that was 20 years ago.
I always am fascinated by how much you study and prepare for the things you do. Never boring. ❤❤❤❤❤❤
I have the 24k BTU system. From June 20th to today, it used 1.4 megawatts of solar to cool my place! More than paid for itself in my opinion. Fett ng three more in the new year for the tax credits!
Jesse I remember you using the wall mounted drill for your dad a fair while ago. Well done once again.👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼🥰🥰🥰🥰
This IS fascinating! The first AC product I've seen promoting the solar power feature. I'm so glad you are doing this video. Thank you!
I am glad you said that you are going to cover lines because at the moment it looks a mess when we all know you can do better
12:24 you forgot to move the drain to the line side. You may get water backing up and dripping. Also, if you do have that happen, get rid of the corrugated drain line they supply and use straint pipe or at least solid tube. Just a tip, cause it leaked on my install due to a very small bump in the corrugated tube
The drainage pipe can be moved to the other side of the block, where the copper pipes come out. This way the drainage will drain better and will not stagnate in the pipe and will not form mold.
I installed one 9 months ago on my home. It has saved 1.3MWH 🙌. And it's 3 x more efficient than my electric baseboard heat. It will pay for itself this winter
this has a COP of around 8 so you should be getting 8x more efficiency than a baseboard heat. that kind of depends on how cold it is outside though, so the average is what you would be after
How cold does it get where you live tho? I live in the Yukon and temps are around -13f to -30f all winter long. Wondering if it stays efficient at these temps?
Another epic informative video, Jesse. This EG4 system is definitely better than your standard Mister Cool units as you have the added PV connectivity. I had to laugh when you mentioned the Degrees Celsius & Fahrenheit choice, haha. Us British viewers all had a little cry. Your core drill was definitely a worthy investment, and it's paid for itself. It must of got colder there as Noah got dressed up. You should get royalties from EG4 for the positive brand placement
Great video Jesse!! Really wish my units had those refrigerant connectors in place of the flares, seem more resilient and less finicky. And they have a unit available that comes with 7 solar panels so if this was someones first good and adding any kind of solar, they already have you covered. My one suggestion would be to get the condensate drain to outside as directly as possible and then into a vertical pvc pipe using a Type LB conduit body, so it is easy to clean that out later, both down and in towards the indoor unit since those condensate lines seem to like to get plugged up and then back up to make the indoor units tray overflow inside. Have a good one!! 👍
You make it look easy, JM. Good content
That awesome I like the fact you don't need any engineers to install the units.
I am on ongoing renovation in my place when I finish I definitely will install one in my place thanks a lot for sharing with us 👍 👍
Imho boiler without automatic control is a mess, you have to remember to backfill several times a day and night, stockpile dry wood, watch out for fires from the chimney and soot, etc. Go into all-electric heating. You can put some solar tracer with those nice looking bifacial solar panels, between electric post and small garage.
Here in Poland about 80% of heat pumps in houses are air-to-water type(here ground heat exchangers are very expensive), with a buffer tank with an additional electric heater in case of big frost. If there is a heat exchanger with a large area(like underfloor heating) water at the outlet does not have to be as hot as for standard radiators, and the efficiency is good, concrete also accumulates a lot of heat. Here new solid fuel boilers are mostly for pellets(compressed biofuel, wood shavings, willow, grain, etc, Pastilles are fed automatically, the bunker refilled once a week.), or for natural or LPG gas.
My buddy way up north and I got a wood boiler for his place nice used $1500. but the d@m thing used 4 times the amount of wood, it was crazy. He sold it and just went back to using his fire place burner, way more heat 1/3 of wood used for the year, warmer and is nice seeing the wood burn in the living room. The outdoor boiler held like 200gls of glycol which is crazy. He was using 20 cords a year with that thing, other wise 6/7 cords.
That feeling when you have 8+ hours of jesse muller videos to catch up on 😎
Jesse you’re a walking genius
Good to see you back Jesse! 👍
I’m super excited to see how you end up liking these!!! Please keep us updated!!! I’ve had my eye on one for a while.
I’m interested in several of them if they are worth it.
If you want to have a lower temperature, use a line voltage air conditioning thermosat, that will disconnect power supply.
ps: I have heard of people having issues with condensate drain tube sagging and getting blocked when the itis run horizontal behind the indoor unit the way you did. There is a removable plug that allows the drain tube to be relacated to the same end of the drain pan as the refrigerant tubes.
hello, yes, good observation.
Some thing else i would like to add, the drain tube can be very easily switched from left to right, and this prevents connecting, the extension tube on the inside, some times the connection between the main drain tube and the extension can leak and it might be problematic -especially if it is inside the wall-.
Having sedd that, the extension tube as shown in the video, is visible on the inside so fixing a leaky connection shoudn't be that hard.
thank you, and good luck
Great stuff again …Watching in the UK
Thank you for the video.
Outdoor units, when it's a heap pump, in cold climate needs to elevated off the ground so that condensate has a place to go. You need to re think your approach to pulling line sets, stub in a little from the outside, make the connections and pull out the extra instead of struggling the way you did
I think you could move the condensation line to the other side of the Evaporator Unit. There is a plug on both sides (I think). It might have been a good idea to use Nylog thread sealant on all those line connectors. Something else you might have considered is mounting the condenser off the ground right behind the Evaporator and you might not have needed the extra refrigerant line. One other thing, that indoor evaporator is going to get dirty very quickly running in your garage. I would check it regularly because it might need regular cleaning to keep it operating efficiently.
Nice Job! You do great things....
Neat product, nice and simple.
Like the videos Jess keep up the good work
Hi, I would definitely install a weather protection over ☝️ of the outdoor unit! A small roof. Technology will thank you. 💁♂️👍
I put in all the time never have a problem with that
Definitely want to see you install the wood boiler
In one of my 5 garages I used drywall on the ceiling, but my point is for the mud I used the better white thin set for tile on the seems and screws. Drywall mud in the cold will come off kinda, this has held up perfect, that garage I heat allot but not all the time and does hit below zero here plenty.
I do enjoy watching. Like a mystery Find it fix it. ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Very neat system, AC is mostly needed when the sun is out.
A drawback is that you cant do anything else with the solar power that goes into the AC unit, like feeding it to a battery ( alot of time there will be decent solar power but you dont need AC yet).
But this system is as easy as it gets.
These should be more popular than they are , especially down south were there is a lot of sun, a lot of heat and blackouts due to a/c eating up the energy..
We've been considering a similar unit for our house mostly as an additional way to heat when we're tired of hauling in wood for the wood stove. But having the dehumidifier to keep the house drier during the wet season (basically all year long except for the 3 weeks of fall here in the Upstate), would be very nice. We rarely need the A/C here, and the dehumidifier function will drop the temps by 10 degrees anyway. We just got an awesome deal on some good used 540 Watt Bifacial panels a few weeks ago and have a bunch extra that would work great with this....
Yea these work really great for dehumidification . When I turned mine on that mode there was a constant stream of water coming out of the condensate line and it was only using between 3-400 watts
Can't stress maintenance enough with any mini-split. The supplied filters are virtually useless so the blower wheel catches everything. At least once a year get in there and clean your blower, especially in dirty or humid environments.
I know you said we don't need to do alot of electrical work but it sure feels like it looking at this here video
nice job on your line set routing lol!
Pretty cool but wouldn’t you want a dedicated solar array for the shop instead of individual ones? That way you have one centralized system for all the shop power and to feed your battery bank.
yes that is what I will have
for the temperature limitation, you could get a wireless IR transmitter, and hook it up to a temp sensor, then you could automate it to send the remote signal for power on/power off at specific temperatures, work around for the system limitation.
If you're not cooling 24/7, you can save quite a bit by setting up a pair of temperature controlled vents which open when the inside is quite a bit hotter than the outside. For a lot of days, that's really all you need.
I only use AC for one or 2 weeks a year - the rest of the time, I do exactly that - open the windows at night and use box fans to draw in the cool air. Shut the windows and turn off the fans in the morning just before the sun comes up and keep them closed. The house stays pretty cool unless it's stupidly hot out for multiple days in a row
Alright ,Missed ya! Coffee on! Cheers!;-)! Here we go!
The kids are getting it…….goot !!
Wood boiler, 100%. One and done.
Put some large and heavy rocks on that 4 feet around your building on the side if you are not going to put on gutters, so your ground is not pounded.
61 is minimum in cooling mode(61-90), in heating mode 32-90, in dry 50-90. But air temperature at the opposite corner of the garage from the unit can be several degrees different, watch out for frost in floor pipes, etc.
Jesse, the Sun is actually closer to the Earth in the Winter than it is in the Summer. Counter-intuitive, I know. Because the Earth is tilted on its axis 28 degrees, the axis is tilted such that the Northern Hemisphere (where US is) is tilted more towards the Sun. Even though it is farther away, the solar intensity is greater. It is also why Australia, being in the Southern Hemisphere, is having their Winter when we are having our Summer. In our Winter, the axis of the Earth is tilted away such that the Northern Hemisphere has its solar energy more diffuse, while it is more focused on the Southern Hemisphere and Australia is having its Summer.
PUT IT ON TURBO YA GET AN EXTRA BTU .. 🤪 😅 hella funny , luv ya work Jess
Wood is the way to go💪💪💪
Been thinking of a small system for my garden office and home good to see what's available... We've got gas fired heating but that's no good when it's 100 Fahrenheit and your on a call for work 😂
Get a temperature controlled 220v switch to control the mains power to the unit so that it is not powered until it reaches 50°
To get to a lower cold weather maintenance temperature install a SEPARATE temperature on/off on the power in the unit so the power turns off when the temp reaches your desired "away mode" level. This should work so long as the unit comes "alive" when it gets power. Isolate that controller when you are in "home mode". Someone else suggested similar.
Great ideas!
As always a job well done
Many of us here in England use Fahrenheit rather than Centigrade!
You have to have the unit in heat mode to get to the lower temperatures to protect from freezing. I think that you had it in AC mode when you were testing.
no it was in heat mode. maybe there is a setting to keep things from freezing but I couldnt find it. I have been in heat mode for a while, and 61 is the lowest it goes. But I can control it remotely so I can just turn it on for a few hours a day if I am away
Surprise visit from the Wheeler's. They are putting out videos helping Andrew Camarata finish out the inside of his castle.
Noah's GOODT had me rolling!
Check to see if there is a Freeze Protection option on the remote, "FP" that mode will keep the garage above freezing, if your unit has this setting. I know my Mr. Cool units and Pioneer units have this setting.
@48:46 You should use anti vibration rubber "feet" for the unit
omg your son yelling out GOOD was hilarious
I'm not sure if it will work with a mini split, but there is a company called cool bot that makes a conversion kit you can install in your A/C system. It will take over the controls of your system so you can decrease the minimum temperature significantly, to the point you can use an A/C unit to cool a walk in refrigerator, which by the way would be great for hanging your livestock to age or store your garden vegetables.
An extra piece or two of gutter downspout would work well as a protective raceway for the mini split lines outside the building.
Well done good job
good job!
noah saying "good'! right before dan... ok, i just decided to have kids LOL
They make a square line cover to enclose the lines, electric, condensate, etc.. they run a few hundred, their only real plus is they keep the sun/UV exposure off the line set insulation, which eventually breaks down because of UV. I had my Mitsubishi 48K BTU unit mounted on a wall mount bracket, the low hum in my bedroom drove me insane, I eventually cribbed up 4X4’s and filled the structure with crushed stone and lowered the unit on top of it, isolating it from the structure.. I can sleep, again 😬. The other advantage of direct solar to the mini split is, if you’re grid tied, it won’t affect the maximum size of your system, which for most of us is around 10KW of AC (because of transformer size of the utility), it also takes load of your PV system…
Jesse, 1:02:00 ish. There is an override for window units to make them into freezer units that small farms use. You can google or look the product up.
Also, what in the heck happened to that side of your pops house?
Nice 👍
1:01:47 The min temperature of 61 degrees F is probably just for the air conditioning. Try changing it to heating mode and I'm sure that you can set the temperature much lower.
@32:35 just noticed the sweater, that's sick 😎
you think I should start a line of merch and include that?
@jmuller86 Yeah! That design is cool and subtle. I really thought it was a makita hoodie at first. I'm sure you got some more design ideas, and feel free to run them by us if you want before you make a bunch.
@@darinmorgante7200 I actually didnt design that. I had a viewer reach out and send me that. I told him I just need some time to get some ideas worked out and then I will probably start checking into getting a line of merch. I thought it was pretty clever, hopefully makita doesnt try to sue...but I dont think I am big enough for them to worry about
You should read the manual on the mini split for the minimum temp for heating. My unit has a separate mode to maintain ~46° for freeze prevention. I bet this unit has something similar.
My units have the same setting. I downloaded the manual for the unit Jesse installed and unfortunately it does not have that setting. Probably the only slight downside to these units, though I never use that setting anyways so it wouldn't matter to me, just install insulation and set the unit to 61 and be willing to spend a little extra money. I was thinking the same thing so just thought I would reply to you in case anyone else is wondering the same thing. Have a good one!! 👍
Great video as always Jessie. Was watching you hook up the outside unit to the panel and noticed to 2 objects attached to the left side of your panel. Believe they say LHOTSE brand. What are they? Thought it might be some wireless monitoring attachment for the breaker panel but not sure. Watched you video again on the garage electrical....they are not on the panel in that one. Just an old man's curiousity. Thanks again Jessie for the informational video.
Those are just flashlights that are magnetically attached to the box
@jmuller86 thanks for the quick reply Jessie.
maybe you can get a wood boiler, that can also burn waste oil????
that way whenever you're done changing oil in equipment and come back with 10 gallons of waste oil... you can just fire that stuff right off into the boiler over the course of a month of whatever.
Hi Jesse, do you already know that an air conditioner needs a yearly cleaning maintenance?
If you clean the aluminum ribs where the cold/heat exchange takes place with a water+alcohol solution you remove all dust and dirt making the cold/heat exchange much more efficient.
You need 1 gallon 50/50 solution and apply it with a (plant) sprayer.
Imagine if we all, looking at these videos would be there on site. We would not fit into carage. There would be arguing and pushing because so few would see, others would try to take a peak over shoulders.
Good stuff
Another great video! 👍
Are there going to be any collabs with Andrew once he starts his new castle?
This video needs waaaaaaay waaaaaaay more trucking and sunglasses.
Jessie, that unit should have an “away” mode that brings the temp down to like 48 I think.
Jesse - although you didn't show it, did you eventually put a grommet around the metal siding hole on your workshop install? Or is it not necessary (will the cables not move during a storm or windy day)? Thanks!
Jessi, the earth is closer to the sun in the winter. Good work on everything, as usual. Your videos are fun to watch.
120 volt ac for 11.82 BTU per watt is pretty d@m good. Got a guy in Tomha WI that is selling solar vacuum tubes on a liquidation and has allot, don't let him jive you, I got two VT58 series with manifolds and frame kit for 700$ cash. He's on Market place and you know how they start really high with there pricing, for your parents place or yours.
Keep an eye out for foam boards from old chicken farm buildings. Could get some for a great price
Jesse, the unit may go lower than 61deg in heat mode. In cool mode, 61 may be the lowest.
Bet the wife is happy to have a better AC unit lol.
You are truly amazing and your channel is worth watching, and the content is very useful, but despite that, your channel is still growing slowly I think that many viewers today on RUclips do not prefer a lot of explanation and commentary done by the owner of the content (the chatterbox). This is evidenced by the fact that there are many channels that are similar to your content and are mostly silent and achieve very high views Therefore, I advise you to limit explaining and commenting unless absolutely necessary. By doing so, I believe that your channel will achieve better viewing results. 👍👍👍❤👍👍👍
Yea I have been trying to switch to doing that
@@jmuller86 Andrew's channel also grew a bit slow in the beginning, if I remember correct. I like the combination of explanations and silent work, combined with fast motion where it is a bit more boring repetetive work. So I believe if you just keep doing what you already are doing, the channel will grow steadily. I also believe Andrew's "funny vids" where he drives over a car and similar might become somewhat viral, and help the subs grow quicker.
@@jmuller86 Actually, at your current subscriber base, you should be starting to climb even faster. There seems to be a tipping point once you hit like 200k then it really starts going. Keep at it as you are, Andrews videos are fairly unique due to his cinematography. Yours have benefitted quite a bit from the use of drone footage becoming more epic feeling. But, your channel is unique in that it is extremely informative and informational in an accessible way. Keep on keeping on Jesse!
I reckon Muller should make a windmill! What do you reckon?
The additional connector is for a Bluetooth/WiFi module to control until from your mobile phone app.
Did you remember to angle the hole in the wall down ?
Jesse are you planning on insulating anytime soon?
Man. That’s a lot of permit talk. We don’t have that in Kentucky yet
👍👍👍
Did you vacuum the lineset before releasing the gas?
I didnt because the lineset is already pre vac'ed
@@jmuller86 Interestingly, I was looking through the manual for that unit about that and apparently the lineset that comes with the unit is actually "pre-charged", so it has refrigerant in it, but if you need to purchase an additional extension lineset, that comes "pre-vacuumed". So you end up with an extra joint (actually 2 joints) in your lineset if you need longer than 16 ft (and you may what to have some more refrigerant added for the extra lineset length). I still think I prefer their connectors though, over the typical flare connections used in most mini splits. Have a good one!! 👍
2x12 seems like gross overkill for hanging the indoor unit.. Could definitely get by with something lighter.. But if you have a 2x12 lying around, sure.. 🙂
keep them comeing dad
In jesse we trust
Edit: Misread the manual, disregard what I said.
The unit does 61-90*F in cooling mode, 32-90*F in heating mode. 50-90*F in dry mode.
it only goes down to 61 in heating mode
@@jmuller86 Huh, well that's silly. Sorry for the misinformation, I guess I misunderstood the manual.
You probably could, if you really wanted to, modify the unit. I would assume the temperature sensor is just a regular NTC thermistor which can be bodged. Not pretty but if needs be it will shift the value..
You can either add a resistor in series to increase the resistance or add one in parallel to lower resistance.
BUT thermistors are not linear so you'd have to check it at certain temperatures to see what it is doing. And really think about it.
As an example first 10k NTC datasheet I came across outputs 19,9k at 50F, 12,49k 68F, 10K 77F.
At 61F it should be around 15k. If you'd want to fake a hotter reading, you need to parallel resistor.
If it is 77F and it's reading 10k, adding 47k in parallel equivalent resistance is 8.2k and it would read 85F.
If it's 61F and it's reading 15k, 47k in parallel equals 11,37k and it reads 71F
If it's 50F and it's reading 19,9k, 47k in parallel equals 13,98k and it reads 64F.
Probably not worth the effort as thinking about this makes my brain hurt but you could do it if you really wanted to. Like I said, just need to document what the current one reads at different temperatures to guesstimate it's curve and then use a NTC calculator and resistor formulas to figure out the offset.
@@Lagittaja yea I get what you are saying and I could probably figure that out, but I think for ease of mind...if I am away I can control it remotely...so I can just turn it on for a few hours a day to keep it above freezing. can just do it remotely. Or I could shut the ac breaker off and just let the solar run it so its not wasting energy