Loctite 680 "green" sleeve retaining compound would likely work very well for holding in those press fit fuel fittings, especially if it's a tight clearance "slip fit" where an epoxy would just be squeezed out.
Yep, I agree with green loctite. It is really good stuff. I also use their anaerobic mating surface / flange sealant on engine cases and replacing cylinder base gaskets with just the sealant for tighter squish clearance. Never had a problem with it not withstanding gasoline....as long as its a proper machined tight clearance surface.
You commented briefly on not using a shop vac when there are gas fumes present. I think that point deserves much more emphasis. There was a guy who tried to use a shop vac to remove accumulated fluids from around underground gas tanks at a gas station / convenience store. The result was a massive explosion that killed the guy, though thankfully nobody else was hurt. A really bad idea, that...
04/87 under the engine sw button so that is how old it is. I "sandblast" my projects in a big box, with granulated walnut shells (buy from a gunshop) it cleans spotless without damage to anything.
I enjoy working on generators more than anything else, the fun of tracing the wires out and testing the power side of it is just pure joy Retired diesel mechanic so the engine part is just other day 😊😊😊
Those Kawasaki units have always been well built and some of the best running small engines I've worked with, and this little unit is really nice! it was interesting that the voltage actually increase a little with load, while the Hz dropped (which is normal). Not a bad thing, but interesting. Another great job!
Looking forward to next week's LIVE Q and A with you and Gary. We always get great questions. Those old Kawasaki's are indeed one of the quietest small engines made, even the larger ones!
6th videos in a row, just watching James repairing these generator. So calm, so nice... Speechless, I ll switch my job with a Generator Repair shop with you James. Those old Kawasaki's are muche better than 2024 units these days. As you aways say: "Perfect"
Maybe I am showing my age, but I find the older machines much more aesthetically pleasing. The new ones have more features, but the old ones have more style, IMHO. Watching you work your magic is not only informative, but salubrious!
When deadheading wires with shrink tubing, leave enough tubing out past the wire to fold it over, then go back over both wires with another shrink tube, preferably use hot melt glue type tubing for all three.
Another good movie demonstrating that a little preventative maintenance and cleaning goes a long way in extending the life of our machines. You care for it and it's there when you need it. Good one James.
I love it when you come across an antique machine like this. Back in the old days, companies spent just as much time making their products unique and presentable as they did making them functional. I love working on the older the stuff. It is just so much more interesting, and so much less complicated. This was a good find.
Absolutely love watching your videos. I never knew there could be an emulsion tube inside an emulsion tube. It don’t do a lot of this work but just watching your videos gives me lots of knowledge/confidence to do it. I have a mechanical background just haven’t worked much on generators and small engines. Side note I have my own generator up and running again after getting knowledge from your videos. Great work fixing up this Kawasaki generator
Very enjoyable to follow this adventure. The oil light was a fun challenge. You have a knack for these and your troubleshooting skills are a joy to listen to. Dare I say you're a generator whisperer? On another note, I enjoy the older machines. The clone wars do get a bit tiresome after awhile. Nice to break it up with the older machines once in while. I'd vote for more old genset saves. Maybe a Delco Light Plant or similar vintage?
4:09 Works on any size 4-cycle engine. Gonna be doing that to the 250cid I6 in the 71 Chevy C10 I inherited last month. It's been parked for 20 years, so filling the float bowl with 2-stroke fuel for its first start since then is a good idea
May I suggest using a length of heavy link chain instead of nuts and bolts to descale the tank. it is heavier and much easier to remove when done. Love your vids.
Thank you James from NB Canada Once again, a great video. I'm a fan and I learn a lot from your videos On these small carbs, I find that Simple Green HD (the purple stuff at least in Canada) does an amazing job in an ultrasonic cleaner with hot water. Just my $.02 Keep up the great work!
James: Thanks for all your videos! I love that you care about cosmetics as well as mechanics! Too many videos I watch and the authors don’t give any attention to the cosmetics. Your continued approach to your job is awesome. I have a suggestion. When you are rebuilding and cleaning carbs and run into a stubborn float pin that you can’t poke out try this; I have watched hundreds of videos and one of my favorite channels is “2Vintage” Joe works on several different bikes, atv’s, snowmobiles and such. He has run into the issues with stuck float pins, once he was trying to remove one such pin by using a punch and tapping on it with a hammer, he broke the pin post. After that he came up with a spring loaded brass punch and he has not failed to remove a pin since getting it, or broke another carb. Thanks again!
It was running so well James coz it's a Kawasaki. If you milking it in the fuel drain area, we call it a COW-ASAKI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Best regards and thanks for the vid, I gave it a like!!!!!
That JB Weld is some good stuff. I had a '72 VW Van. I found out later that the previous owner strpped out the fuel shutoff solenoids in both carburetors. They were barely snug enough to keep them in place. A little JB Weld secured those solenoids for seeral years.
I take tanks that are that bad and put gravel in them and strap them to a riding mower wheel jacked off the ground to use it as a tumbler. It works pretty good. Awesome job as usual Jim!!
My gas powered air compressor did that. Drove me crazy trying to figure it out especially after i changes the oil and knew it was full. Found it was the low oil sensor was bad and didn't want tear it down to replace it. Unhooked it and it fired up
I had a Kawasaki GA1000A for several years and it was a great machine. I really like the size and how smooth the engine ran. Very high quality machine in terms of build and hardware. I'm willing to bet what you found in the carb bowl was a mix of "settled" tank rust and very old fuel stabilizer. Anyways, great job Jim! These are great machines and worth fixing!
I have the uk version of this very machine which needs a carb clean. The eng-sw is a red illuminated momentary button which only needs to be pressed to stop the generator. You are missing a plastic part from the air box which is sandwiched between the two haves with the l foam on the outside. Looks like I have no excuse for not giving it a proper service now!
Hi James, I'm sure you know this, pulling off the plug wire while the engine was running can destroy the mag. the spark plug limits the voltage at the mag without it will damage the coil. shorting out at the plug is a better solution. Rich
Speaking of putting a face to the voice, we need some merch? How about some James Condon “Nice” T shirts? Every time I get a generator to first start making power, I can hear that “nice” in my head.
Let's not bow down to everyone else selling merch. We are extremely lucky not to be swamped with meaningless adverts. Even if you have a print on demand, shipping costs often make merchandise more expensive, and there are very slim profits and many of us within the east, UK & Europe won't be able to support that due to ridiculous costs
"So today, we're working on...." And today I am working on my taxes. yuck. I just got a kill-o-watt and have a tiny 2-stroke generator to test. I'd rather be working on that.
I am loving all of the old Japanese generators you have been working on. Your diagnosis of the low oil light issue makes sense to me. That was running a lot more RPMs than stock.
James, I believe I saw this ole boy smile, once it realized it was in your shop. Anything with a small engine that's ailing and kinda works [especially a generator], knows it'll be back in the game once you start working on it. The content is what people look for e.g., you show your mistakes, great camera angles and editing, info and advise w/o over explanation, no clickbait, distracting music, or cussing and on/on. One day I hope you find a vintage [something of your choice], and restore back to new condition; only not to sell-but to keep as a reminder of all the other shops you've helped. 👍 Keep em' coming. God bless.
Excellent! I love watching you rescue these things! Also - an inexpensive pair of EMT shears will make fast work of that filter material and probably be just as easy if not easier.
I had one of them generators only the UK model (230/115 volts@ 50 hertz) it had 1993 on the HT lead so must have been made after then, the air filter fits into the plastic part of the air box and is secured by a plastic grill witch is missing on yours.
Great video again James and I will try to catch you all live next week . I really enjoy your videos and your vast knowledge . I have been watching your older videos as well as the new ones .I try to at least watch one a day .Take care sir and catch you on your next video.
You have a great organized and analytical mind. You would have become a great surgeon. Truly enjoy your analytical evaluation of "old stuff" and amazing ability to get them running well again. A tribute to old engineering and solid materials with tender, loving care. AND, just a few new and/or restored parts ....IF available. Many thanks!!
I had the hardest time trouble shooting a low oil switch on a ETQ Generator. I used synthetic 30 oil. For what ever reason it only worked with conventional oil.
Excellent job as always James 👍🏻. I really like your theory in the end about the oil shut off switch I would never have thought of that and it actually makes perfect sense!
James, another excellent rehab! Love everything about your channel. As an alternative to JB-Weld for the fuel fitting, you may wish to look into some of the Loctite 600-series adhesives... some are excellent for sealing light press-fits and you should be able to find fuel-resistant ones.
James as always very good in saving something that can help someone out. Very good call on engine speed and oil sensor. FYI, I have had very good results in oring replacement from local hardware store in there oring supply boxes for metric and standard for carderator bowls.
James, excellent video. You did a fantastic job “resurrecting” this cool vintage generator. I am like you, I prefer to keep my equipment in OEM condition, and if possible, replace worn or broken components with OEM. I think the green pilot light looks right, and is a great compromise to a broken and non-functional engine switch. Me personally, I would have opted for the red toggle switch as it is the kill switch, but the black does look good and fits well. Thanks for the video!
Thanks James, I bought the same generator 2 years ago and have just decided to work on it and your video just came in time to save me heaps of time on how to disassemble and clean out the carby. Subbed.
Wow,I have the exact twin to that generator,real heavy always make sure to turn the gas off when not using it,I haven't seen another one in a long time,great video thumbs up
Great diagnosis! Yeah... Judging from the original dipstick reading, the machine may have been put away years ago after stopping due to low oil. Sticking in that condition makes some sense.
44:43 well, you should’ve done was freeze the breast fitting and heat up or warm up carburetor body and that would allow it to fall into place and seal. That’s how they did it.
Just got the same exact one from my girls dad. This thing looks food but so rusted inside... got it to run but I think I'll need to deep clean the carb and the tank. Thanks for the info!!
The bowl is cast out of zinc "galvanised right through" and the sludge is zinc rust or zinc oxide. Modern carbs are aluminium with a steel bowl. Green loctite would glue that brass fuel hose tail in ok. Commercially they use hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) do dissolve rust quickly. 50ml would be enough. rinse well
re fuel line coming out in 1971 ford autralia had a 2l engine with a webber carburetor with a pushed in fitting. the fitting would sometimes come out while you where driving causing an engine fire. the fix was to fit a taper pin in the carburetor body through the fuel inlet tube. an easy yes cheap and reliable fix. maybe you should do this to your carburetor to metigate posable fire risk
James, I've noticed that for at least the last two installments, you haven't used your resistive load bank. Can you shed some light on this. Thank you and please keep up the excellent, informative videos. - John Wagner
A parts washing sink. Can save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars a year. And if you make a good one it can filter and recycle the kerosene or diesel. It will save you loads of money when it comes to carb cleaner brake cleaner WD-40 and whatever else you might use to simply spray a little bit of dirt off something.😊😊😊. The cheapest way is to make one yourself. It is not hard to do. And it would probably make a great video that would get thousands of views.😮😮😮😊😊😊 Have a nice day.
Can’t sleep…so here I am watching another of JImmy’s videos! LOL I am never sure about epoxy for fuel exposure. A good product that is gasoline safe comes in a yellow tube and is called Seal All. I used it to fix a broken filter screen on the petcock of a motorcycle and never had a problem. It’s fairly thin in viscosity as well, so for a tight fitting like that brass inlet, a thin wipe around the tube and tap her back in again and all good. Or…you could silver solder it.
Great video... as always. I think I saw gas run out of the bowl seal the first time you tried it, when the needle and seat failed to seal. If gas can come out that seal, it could be possible for air to get sucked back in that seal.. that would cause a lean condition too. perhaps on the second cleaning and reassembly that got more tightened or maybe the rubber seal just got more pliable after having some fuel put onto it. Great thoughts on the reason for the oil shut off.. makes a lot of sense. There is not that much oil volume in the crankcase. What a great little generator.. so quiet...
Have you ever tried vinegar ? I fix Coleman lanterns and when the tank is rusty I fill it with vinegar and use a the shot from a shot gun shell, shake it let it sit and repeat, works good
I trick I accidentally discovered for leaking press fit tubes on carbs is blue threadlocker. I had a press fit tube on a tiller that was leaking, and threadlocker was all I had at the time. I just tried it, and it worked perfectly. When I sold the machine several years later, it was still holding. It worked great.
I think the red kill switch would be great to indicate killing the engine...ya can't miss it and it identifies itself immediately...of course you could always hit it with a little tap of orange spray paint
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Whoever invented the step drill needs to get an award.
I've got a Uni-bit, they are neat. The only other drills I use more are my L.H. drill bit set.
Yeah really they are so handy.
Nonono, who ever invented strapon should get award
Loctite 680 "green" sleeve retaining compound would likely work very well for holding in those press fit fuel fittings, especially if it's a tight clearance "slip fit" where an epoxy would just be squeezed out.
I agree it’s the best and I’ve used a lot of it over the years 😊
Came here to say the same thing. Agreed.
Yep, I agree with green loctite. It is really good stuff. I also use their anaerobic mating surface / flange sealant on engine cases and replacing cylinder base gaskets with just the sealant for tighter squish clearance. Never had a problem with it not withstanding gasoline....as long as its a proper machined tight clearance surface.
Not sure of the numbers but either Loctite High Strength Retainer or Loctite Hydraulic Seal would do that job. 39:24
Also came here to say the same thing. 👍
"You can tell it's a Mikuni by the way that it is" got a solid laugh out of me this morning. An accidental call back to neature walk.
You commented briefly on not using a shop vac when there are gas fumes present. I think that point deserves much more emphasis. There was a guy who tried to use a shop vac to remove accumulated fluids from around underground gas tanks at a gas station / convenience store. The result was a massive explosion that killed the guy, though thankfully nobody else was hurt. A really bad idea, that...
04/87 under the engine sw button so that is how old it is. I "sandblast" my projects in a big box, with granulated walnut shells (buy from a gunshop) it cleans spotless without damage to anything.
I saw that and though the same.
Just got home from work at 440am CA time and see a James update… yep I’m gonna watch!
Fuel air was 2 1/4 not 1 3/4
@@brianparker6811 wrong place to reply bud
Great Job James! Looking forward to the live Q&A this week!
Thanks Gary. Looking forward to it.
I enjoy working on generators more than anything else, the fun of tracing the wires out and testing the power side of it is just pure joy
Retired diesel mechanic so the engine part is just other day 😊😊😊
Those Kawasaki units have always been well built and some of the best running small engines I've worked with, and this little unit is really nice! it was interesting that the voltage actually increase a little with load, while the Hz dropped (which is normal). Not a bad thing, but interesting. Another great job!
Looking forward to next week's LIVE Q and A with you and Gary. We always get great questions. Those old Kawasaki's are indeed one of the quietest small engines made, even the larger ones!
I too am looking forward to this. I added a reminder to my calendar.
Looking forward to it. Need to clear the cobwebs off my live streaming gear. Hope it still works!
6th videos in a row, just watching James repairing these generator. So calm, so nice... Speechless, I ll switch my job with a Generator Repair shop with you James. Those old Kawasaki's are muche better than 2024 units these days. As you aways say: "Perfect"
Great job Man !!! Good to see another old machine live again 😁😉😎
Maybe I am showing my age, but I find the older machines much more aesthetically pleasing. The new ones have more features, but the old ones have more style, IMHO. Watching you work your magic is not only informative, but salubrious!
When deadheading wires with shrink tubing, leave enough tubing out past the wire to fold it over, then go back over both wires with another shrink tube, preferably use hot melt glue type tubing for all three.
So glad to see myfavourite jacket/sweaterback again.
Love your work !!
Most enjoyable! As always!
It was hard to see the green light outdoors. Not that it very much matters.
Well done!
I like the pilot light gonna do that on my generators
Another good movie demonstrating that a little preventative maintenance and cleaning goes a long way in extending the life of our machines. You care for it and it's there when you need it. Good one James.
I love it when you come across an antique machine like this. Back in the old days, companies spent just as much time making their products unique and presentable as they did making them functional. I love working on the older the stuff. It is just so much more interesting, and so much less complicated. This was a good find.
Enjoying your videos with a smooth voice ❤
Thank you for putting Amazon links to the tools you use!
Amazon exploit employees
Remarkable revival on this James!! How cool is it that this was resuscitated and now amongst the living - all thanks to you!!
Absolutely love watching your videos. I never knew there could be an emulsion tube inside an emulsion tube. It don’t do a lot of this work but just watching your videos gives me lots of knowledge/confidence to do it. I have a mechanical background just haven’t worked much on generators and small engines. Side note I have my own generator up and running again after getting knowledge from your videos.
Great work fixing up this Kawasaki generator
Thanks
Very enjoyable to follow this adventure. The oil light was a fun challenge. You have a knack for these and your troubleshooting skills are a joy to listen to. Dare I say you're a generator whisperer? On another note, I enjoy the older machines. The clone wars do get a bit tiresome after awhile. Nice to break it up with the older machines once in while. I'd vote for more old genset saves. Maybe a Delco Light Plant or similar vintage?
YET another GREAT VIDEO THANKS JAMES.
The fuel tank came out great. Thanks also for the explanation at the end about the oil light situation. See ya next Wednesday 😊
4:09 Works on any size 4-cycle engine. Gonna be doing that to the 250cid I6 in the 71 Chevy C10 I inherited last month. It's been parked for 20 years, so filling the float bowl with 2-stroke fuel for its first start since then is a good idea
That’s exacualy the size of the generator I purched ! Never used it ! My son borrowed it and I never took it out of box ! Now he owns it !
Another award winning job!
May I suggest using a length of heavy link chain instead of nuts and bolts to descale the tank. it is heavier and much easier to remove when done. Love your vids.
A tip when using a step drill. I always use a sharpie on the next larger size on the step to let me know when I get to the correct hole.
That brass carb inlet was the perfect application for Loctite.
Well done James. Thanks for sharing.🇨🇦
Thank you James from NB Canada Once again, a great video. I'm a fan and I learn a lot from your videos
On these small carbs, I find that Simple Green HD (the purple stuff at least in Canada) does an amazing job in an ultrasonic cleaner with hot water. Just my $.02
Keep up the great work!
James: Thanks for all your videos! I love that you care about cosmetics as well as mechanics! Too many videos I watch and the authors don’t give any attention to the cosmetics. Your continued approach to your job is awesome. I have a suggestion. When you are rebuilding and cleaning carbs and run into a stubborn float pin that you can’t poke out try this; I have watched hundreds of videos and one of my favorite channels is “2Vintage” Joe works on several different bikes, atv’s, snowmobiles and such. He has run into the issues with stuck float pins, once he was trying to remove one such pin by using a punch and tapping on it with a hammer, he broke the pin post. After that he came up with a spring loaded brass punch and he has not failed to remove a pin since getting it, or broke another carb. Thanks again!
It was running so well James coz it's a Kawasaki. If you milking it in the fuel drain area, we call it a COW-ASAKI!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Best regards and thanks for the vid, I gave it a like!!!!!
What a brilliant build……..very well made 👍👍👍👍👍
Awesome fix!!! I think we all like that you keep at it until the root cause is resolved. I learn a bunch when you do what you do.
That JB Weld is some good stuff. I had a '72 VW Van. I found out later that the previous owner strpped out the fuel shutoff solenoids in both carburetors. They were barely snug enough to keep them in place. A little JB Weld secured those solenoids for seeral years.
They were bad about stripping out back in the day and yes we used jb weld original type only
I take tanks that are that bad and put gravel in them and strap them to a riding mower wheel jacked off the ground to use it as a tumbler. It works pretty good. Awesome job as usual Jim!!
My gas powered air compressor did that. Drove me crazy trying to figure it out especially after i changes the oil and knew it was full. Found it was the low oil sensor was bad and didn't want tear it down to replace it. Unhooked it and it fired up
Thank you for posting this excellent video. If you want switches and LEDs, Adafruit Industries in New York City probably has what you want.
Impressionante como antigos geradores da Honda, Yamaha e Kawasaki funcionam até hoje !
I had a Kawasaki GA1000A for several years and it was a great machine. I really like the size and how smooth the engine ran. Very high quality machine in terms of build and hardware. I'm willing to bet what you found in the carb bowl was a mix of "settled" tank rust and very old fuel stabilizer. Anyways, great job Jim! These are great machines and worth fixing!
James” your tenacious approach too Your projects are stellar. Another one bites the dust.
Thanks, truly enjoyed your creativity and sharing! I feel I learned a great deal. Learning is always a good thing for me! 😀
I have the uk version of this very machine which needs a carb clean.
The eng-sw is a red illuminated momentary button which only needs to be pressed to stop the generator.
You are missing a plastic part from the air box which is sandwiched between the two haves with the l foam on the outside.
Looks like I have no excuse for not giving it a proper service now!
Nice little generator. Great save!
Hi James, I'm sure you know this, pulling off the plug wire while the engine was running can destroy the mag. the spark plug limits the voltage at the mag without it will damage the coil. shorting out at the plug is a better solution.
Rich
Also liable to get a nice jolt if your other hand is holding the frame/grounded. Sparky jump rite thru rubber boot ..
Nice quiet unit. I bet this was one of the finest units you could own (of that size) during its era.
Agreed,these were equal to Honda in their day, I still have Dads 1400 just like this,paint still shiny,works great
Speaking of putting a face to the voice, we need some merch? How about some James Condon “Nice” T shirts? Every time I get a generator to first start making power, I can hear that “nice” in my head.
Let's not bow down to everyone else selling merch. We are extremely lucky not to be swamped with meaningless adverts. Even if you have a print on demand, shipping costs often make merchandise more expensive, and there are very slim profits and many of us within the east, UK & Europe won't be able to support that due to ridiculous costs
I’d go with “it has to earn its oil change”😂
"Real quick"
"So today, we're working on...." And today I am working on my taxes. yuck. I just got a kill-o-watt and have a tiny 2-stroke generator to test. I'd rather be working on that.
I am loving all of the old Japanese generators you have been working on. Your diagnosis of the low oil light issue makes sense to me. That was running a lot more RPMs than stock.
James, I believe I saw this ole boy smile, once it realized it was in your shop. Anything with a small engine that's ailing and kinda works [especially a generator], knows it'll be back in the game once you start working on it. The content is what people look for e.g., you show your mistakes, great camera angles and editing, info and advise w/o over explanation, no clickbait, distracting music, or cussing and on/on. One day I hope you find a vintage [something of your choice], and restore back to new condition; only not to sell-but to keep as a reminder of all the other shops you've helped. 👍 Keep em' coming. God bless.
Nice video as usual, strange little generator...a flat head Kawasaki. I've never seen one before.
Gary, Kenny, and James. Should be an awesome hour or three.
Nice job on this vintage equipment!
Excellent! I love watching you rescue these things! Also - an inexpensive pair of EMT shears will make fast work of that filter material and probably be just as easy if not easier.
I like that you show everything you do. It's very satisfying.
Worth staying up to 11pm for this Aussie.
Worth getting up at 7 for this Canuck.
Worth watching after workday at 5pm for this Finn.
I had one of them generators only the UK model (230/115 volts@ 50 hertz) it had 1993 on the HT lead so must have been made after then, the air filter fits into the plastic part of the air box and is secured by a plastic grill witch is missing on yours.
That makes a little more sense. Thanks for the info.
Great video again James and I will try to catch you all live next week . I really enjoy your videos and your vast knowledge . I have been watching your older videos as well as the new ones .I try to at least watch one a day .Take care sir and catch you on your next video.
You have a great organized and analytical mind. You would have become a great surgeon. Truly enjoy your analytical evaluation of "old stuff" and amazing ability to get them running well again. A tribute to old engineering and solid materials with tender, loving care. AND, just a few new and/or restored parts ....IF available. Many thanks!!
I had the hardest time trouble shooting a low oil switch on a ETQ Generator. I used synthetic 30 oil. For what ever reason it only worked with conventional oil.
Carb is probably lean cause you need to adjust the idle circuit with the mixture screw, plus having the airbox off.
Fantastic video again James. Your are always so understandable and the photography is second to none.
Thanks Garry (Australia)
Excellent job as always James 👍🏻. I really like your theory in the end about the oil shut off switch I would never have thought of that and it actually makes perfect sense!
Loctite makes a locker for tubing or cylindrical bonding that would work well..
So are these latest videos holdovers. I've notice you're not using the electrical test box. Nice work James
I have been thinking the same thing.
That only works for 240v capable systems if I'm not mistaken.
Always fun to watch your vids!
James, another excellent rehab! Love everything about your channel. As an alternative to JB-Weld for the fuel fitting, you may wish to look into some of the Loctite 600-series adhesives... some are excellent for sealing light press-fits and you should be able to find fuel-resistant ones.
680 green locktight
James as always very good in saving something that can help someone out.
Very good call on engine speed and oil sensor.
FYI, I have had very good results in oring replacement from local hardware store in there oring supply boxes for metric and standard for carderator bowls.
James, excellent video. You did a fantastic job “resurrecting” this cool vintage generator. I am like you, I prefer to keep my equipment in OEM condition, and if possible, replace worn or broken components with OEM. I think the green pilot light looks right, and is a great compromise to a broken and non-functional engine switch. Me personally, I would have opted for the red toggle switch as it is the kill switch, but the black does look good and fits well. Thanks for the video!
I have one of these that I got going a few months ago. Was in someone’s shed for years and year and was a right mess. Ended up working great.
Thanks James, I bought the same generator 2 years ago and have just decided to work on it and your video just came in time to save me heaps of time on how to disassemble and clean out the carby. Subbed.
Wow,I have the exact twin to that generator,real heavy always make sure to turn the gas off when not using it,I haven't seen another one in a long time,great video thumbs up
Thanks. It is a well build machine. With a little care it should last forever.
Great diagnosis! Yeah... Judging from the original dipstick reading, the machine may have been put away years ago after stopping due to low oil. Sticking in that condition makes some sense.
44:43 well, you should’ve done was freeze the breast fitting and heat up or warm up carburetor body and that would allow it to fall into place and seal. That’s how they did it.
Great video as always James. I so enjoy watching them. I look forward to Kens live stream.
Смотрю вас James с удовольствием, вы прекрасный учитель 😊
Well you knocked another out of the park, Great video !
Green loctite for press fittings works good for me . And they make a cream to line the inside of the tanks .
You really need to get yourself a set of JIS screwdrivers with all these Japanese screws you've been dealing with lately.
I have a set and used it
I watched a video that said 2019. I can how how the quality of them has improved. I love what u do. Thanks ❤
My dad had one of these back in the day lol
I had one on my service truck and should have kept the truck and generator dang it
Just got the same exact one from my girls dad. This thing looks food but so rusted inside... got it to run but I think I'll need to deep clean the carb and the tank. Thanks for the info!!
The bowl is cast out of zinc "galvanised right through" and the sludge is zinc rust or zinc oxide. Modern carbs are aluminium with a steel bowl. Green loctite would glue that brass fuel hose tail in ok. Commercially they use hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) do dissolve rust quickly. 50ml would be enough. rinse well
re fuel line coming out in 1971 ford autralia had a 2l engine with a webber carburetor with a pushed in fitting. the fitting would sometimes come out while you where driving causing an engine fire. the fix was to fit a taper pin in the carburetor body through the fuel inlet tube. an easy yes cheap and reliable fix. maybe you should do this to your carburetor to metigate posable fire risk
Or, use Loctite 680 green sleeve retaining compound to hold it in since that's what it's made to do.
Just curious...why didn't you use a 12VDC pilot light that you could have connected to the 12VDC output terminals?
James, I've noticed that for at least the last two installments, you haven't used your resistive load bank. Can you shed some light on this. Thank you and please keep up the excellent, informative videos. - John Wagner
I Think the load bank only works on the higher wattage generators. Of course I may be mistaken.
It may be that the wattage is only correct when the load bank is used with 240V and not with 120V.
There's a definite cool factor to these little generators.
Interesting machine. Glad you shared this one. Great video! 🍻
A parts washing sink. Can save you hundreds if not thousands of dollars a year. And if you make a good one it can filter and recycle the kerosene or diesel. It will save you loads of money when it comes to carb cleaner brake cleaner WD-40 and whatever else you might use to simply spray a little bit of dirt off something.😊😊😊. The cheapest way is to make one yourself. It is not hard to do. And it would probably make a great video that would get thousands of views.😮😮😮😊😊😊 Have a nice day.
This is a fantastic idea for the channel
Can’t sleep…so here I am watching another of JImmy’s videos! LOL I am never sure about epoxy for fuel exposure. A good product that is gasoline safe comes in a yellow tube and is called Seal All. I used it to fix a broken filter screen on the petcock of a motorcycle and never had a problem. It’s fairly thin in viscosity as well, so for a tight fitting like that brass inlet, a thin wipe around the tube and tap her back in again and all good. Or…you could silver solder it.
Thanks, I will check it out.
Green loctite will hold that barb in perfectly!
Great video... as always. I think I saw gas run out of the bowl seal the first time you tried it, when the needle and seat failed to seal. If gas can come out that seal, it could be possible for air to get sucked back in that seal.. that would cause a lean condition too.
perhaps on the second cleaning and reassembly that got more tightened or maybe the rubber seal just got more pliable after having some fuel put onto it.
Great thoughts on the reason for the oil shut off.. makes a lot of sense. There is not that much oil volume in the crankcase.
What a great little generator.. so quiet...
Agree that the black switch looks good but red is more intuitive for an on/off switch. Please forgive a picky comment from a fellow perfectionist.
Have you ever tried vinegar ? I fix Coleman lanterns and when the tank is rusty I fill it with vinegar and use a the shot from a shot gun shell, shake it let it sit and repeat, works good
Only tried it once. Did not see much of a change after a week. A lot of people use it without issue. Maybe I used the wrong kind?
@@jcondon1 apple cider vinegar
I trick I accidentally discovered for leaking press fit tubes on carbs is blue threadlocker. I had a press fit tube on a tiller that was leaking, and threadlocker was all I had at the time. I just tried it, and it worked perfectly. When I sold the machine several years later, it was still holding. It worked great.
I think the red kill switch would be great to indicate killing the engine...ya can't miss it and it identifies itself immediately...of course you could always hit it with a little tap of orange spray paint
Awesome! - (as usual) Good job.
The oil level float might be just stuck low because of the thick oil and the oil was low !