Excited to see this run! Our blue 2011 full size just died at 158K miles...we have another full size HSE with 67K miles...engine still sounds ok, but is destined for the same ending as the blue one. Great job on the swap...!!!
Did pinching the return fuel line and blocking the regulator work? No leaks? Do you have a link to some information on doing this instead of changing to a returnless rail?
The check engine light now connects to the gm ecu, and the emissions stuff is turned off via the tune on that. I believe you can make all the gm emissions stuff work if you are in a state that requires it.
Hi again, quick question. I opt to go L33 and 4l60e -as long as I get power to fuse box i can get every function to work except speed meter, fuel meter, ? right. Thanks for your time.
I’ll see if I can find which video the trans line stuff is in. But we just re bent them and moved one of the brackets to the front of the oil pan. But we used the original lines.
When you removed the wiring harness did you separate everything for the wires that go down the trans tunnel by the O2 sensor wires? Seems like that doesn't get removed when you pulled the harness out right? Also doing the swap and trying to figure out how to remove the wiring harness
I am getting a 2004 Land Rover with a LM7/stock trans in on trade and I guess the transmission has some weird shift points? How would I go about tuning the transmission?
That I am not sure of. I think ACE mentions it acts better in sport mode and takes some time to relearn shift points. Let me know if it’s something you end up wanting to sell if you took it on trade.
The $2400 is just for the kit itself. No engine, uses the factory Land Rover transmission though. Realistically I would budget $6ish all in depending on what you choose for an engine.
By the wiring imagine both could still work if you wanted to scan the Rover one. But the check engine light is tied to the LS ecu. We have the LS one in the engine bay near the ecu and the Rover one in the factory location still. The LS one will be just for the Engine, so we’ll need the other to scan the remaining modules on the Rover.
So is it worth the $300 to have it done? Looking forward to hearing it come alive. PS. Doing the muffler delete on Friday! Keeping the front resonator though.
I guess it all depends on what you want to do. It will take a few hours to sort through it so it would be a time and slight headache saver if you are not comfortable wiring. I personally would prefer to do it ourselves just so we know what is going on in there. You gain a better understanding of how it is working with the 2 ecus ties together when you go through and strip out what is unnecessary. Hope you enjoy the extra noise! Let me know how it sounds with the resonator in.
Looking at doing this to my 01 D2. Great video!
Thanks still sorting a couple non swap related issues out, but it should make a decent improvement over the 4.0/4.6
Ahh... the Jim Gassman Wire Twist with the Drill to Pair wires! ;)
Excited to see this run! Our blue 2011 full size just died at 158K miles...we have another full size HSE with 67K miles...engine still sounds ok, but is destined for the same ending as the blue one. Great job on the swap...!!!
That sucks. Timing issues I assume?
All the wiring just gave me a headache, wow excellent video, can’t wait to see it running…
Thursday. Running video will be up. Hopefully.
Very nice
Thanks. Coming along. Might actually start it up today.
You should finish up the G4
Did pinching the return fuel line and blocking the regulator work? No leaks? Do you have a link to some information on doing this instead of changing to a returnless rail?
What about the Rover's SAI? If it's an 04 it had it. Obviously looks like it's been deleted. Does that pop a check engine light?
The check engine light now connects to the gm ecu, and the emissions stuff is turned off via the tune on that. I believe you can make all the gm emissions stuff work if you are in a state that requires it.
Hi again, quick question. I opt to go L33 and 4l60e -as long as I get power to fuse box i can get every function to work except speed meter, fuel meter, ? right. Thanks for your time.
Hey in this video I didn't hear anything about the Rover trans lines going forward. What was done with them?
I’ll see if I can find which video the trans line stuff is in. But we just re bent them and moved one of the brackets to the front of the oil pan. But we used the original lines.
@@LostCauseRanch Saw it again and you bent them out the way. Don't know how I missed that. Cool
When you removed the wiring harness did you separate everything for the wires that go down the trans tunnel by the O2 sensor wires? Seems like that doesn't get removed when you pulled the harness out right? Also doing the swap and trying to figure out how to remove the wiring harness
Any suggestions where to get ls swap harness and components to complete wiring side? Its getting close for me to actually start cleaning up my 5.3.
I am getting a 2004 Land Rover with a LM7/stock trans in on trade and I guess the transmission has some weird shift points? How would I go about tuning the transmission?
That I am not sure of. I think ACE mentions it acts better in sport mode and takes some time to relearn shift points. Let me know if it’s something you end up wanting to sell if you took it on trade.
So wait I’m a bit confused 2.7k for and Ls engine and trans? Or just trans staff?
The $2400 is just for the kit itself. No engine, uses the factory Land Rover transmission though. Realistically I would budget $6ish all in depending on what you choose for an engine.
So will the OBD connection be to the Rover computer or the LS computer?
By the wiring imagine both could still work if you wanted to scan the Rover one. But the check engine light is tied to the LS ecu. We have the LS one in the engine bay near the ecu and the Rover one in the factory location still. The LS one will be just for the Engine, so we’ll need the other to scan the remaining modules on the Rover.
Nice job so far.
By the way, is the silver car 1 stall over a Lotus?
Thanks! And yea it is an Evora.
So is it worth the $300 to have it done? Looking forward to hearing it come alive.
PS. Doing the muffler delete on Friday! Keeping the front resonator though.
I guess it all depends on what you want to do. It will take a few hours to sort through it so it would be a time and slight headache saver if you are not comfortable wiring. I personally would prefer to do it ourselves just so we know what is going on in there. You gain a better understanding of how it is working with the 2 ecus ties together when you go through and strip out what is unnecessary. Hope you enjoy the extra noise! Let me know how it sounds with the resonator in.
O hell no!! X 300 4 show!
Would you be able to put links to the miscellaneous parts you got?
Definitely. I’ll have it all listed out on the final video. Thanks nice we have it all sorted to make sure it’s the correct stuff.
@@LostCauseRanch Thank you so much, and thanks for posting your videos it’s made this swap a lot more feasible knowing what goes into it.
No problem. Glad we can help. Anytime we can help a fellow Rover person I’m all for it.
You need some new time lapse music man. This underwater tinkerbell fart sounding shit got annoying real fast.