Well, I didn't think we'd ever see this one return! -- I'm not knockin' you, by the way. I just figured that the parts would be so much of a hassle that you'd end up finding another in better shape. This was very gratifying to watch, and good to see completed. Thanks!
Very interesting restoration! For me it is quite remarkable, that the design of the actual Festool belt sander (which I bought a year ago) is over 30 years old (except a few minor changes, like the brush assembly). It shows, that a good design could last a very long time!
Good to see it running again. That switch is annoying though. When ever i have a sticky switch i will soak it in 3 in 1 oil overnight then drain it and blow it out with compressed air. 8 out of 10 times its a long term fix. Im sure a dozen people will chime in of why i shouldn't do that but you know what it has worked for me many many times without incident. Nice fix other than the switch.🙂
The strange part over the small gear is there to fling out the grease that will collect around the shaft and put it back into circulation. Without that over the time grease will be packed at that spot. Collected from the big gear and squeezed of from the small gear in to the space around the shaft. The surface speed of the shaft ist not big enough fling out the grease so it will not move along the gearbox-walls and move back on the big gear. Because of the slinging action the grease will get a better circulation and with that an even use.
The bore is dis-aligned because of the heat from the melting bushing. it's the same principle you use to straighten shafts and tubes but in reverse. Heat one side to make that side shrink and bend the tube. You can straiten it back by heating the opposite side. It needs some time to get it right. It's easy overdone. But i would not worry about the misalignment it will take years before it is a problem.
For future reference, those bearings look like they're easy to get, unless there's something about your bearings I'm not realizing. Searching on Ebay turned up lots of results. Search for the size. Adding a brand name will help avoid the no-name brands. For example, you could get an SKF 607 bearing for about $7.50. I've bought lots of name-brand bearings on Ebay and Amazon.
I have two of these sanders. I've had problems with the larger bakelite drive gear (connected to the drive roller), but was able to repair it.......more or less. The issue now is bushings and bearings. McMaster Carr does not seem to have the right bushings. Can you provide a link to the source(s) that you used for the bushings? Thank you, Carter.
The idler wheel is completely worn out. it will not make a problem in a month or year but after that the open space will collect dust and it will act as abrasive on the shaft and wheel, until it starts to touch. I would make a nylon bushing. Make it with course thread on the outside and glue it in then bore the center to the right size. You might need to make a new shaft also. With some good lube it will hold up for 10 years
I'm going through my AEG sander I purchased new in the late 80s. It's been the best sander ever. Trouble now is finding parts. Particularly the belt. I have the original from PowerGrip that was sold to Gates. 51.8840 has not been found. I wonder if two of the ones you found would work? And where you found it? I as well love keeping tools in service. Seems the best thing to help contribute to being "greener". Thanks for video!
Could be better. That front wheel must be fixed. I'm owning same machine, but METABO brand, honestly very well machine, also I'm owning HOLZHER 2424, you can see what is powerful machine. My opinion is that Holzher is main brand for production of this design, because has all Pallet of them.
Really enjoyable rebuild. Odd question. Do you or any fellow viewers know a source for the electrical washer head machine screws found on the back of that shop switch you briefly showed at the end, and then tossed off camera? The best I’ve been able to spec by measurement is M4 0.70 and 1/4” long. I’ve been searching and trying out proxies - which all fall short - for a couple of months. Weird size, style, and material. Side note: I bought the switches - same Asian OEM - from ShopFox on Amazon, who just said “heck we don’t know (or care).” Took them permanently off my shopping list for a mill and a lathe. That completely reinforced what I’ve heard about their parts and service.
I believe they are called "Cheese-head" or "Fillister Head" screws. You can find brass ones on Mcmaster carr for SAE threads but usually not metric. They seem to have fallen out of favor as I see them a lot in pre 1990 power tools but hardly at all anymore.
Наука
Well, I didn't think we'd ever see this one return! -- I'm not knockin' you, by the way. I just figured that the parts would be so much of a hassle that you'd end up finding another in better shape. This was very gratifying to watch, and good to see completed. Thanks!
Very interesting restoration! For me it is quite remarkable, that the design of the actual Festool belt sander (which I bought a year ago) is over 30 years old (except a few minor changes, like the brush assembly). It shows, that a good design could last a very long time!
See Holzher 2420 or other...
That's the cutest little belt sander. Ever so slightly, I was waiting for it to explode.
Good to see it running again. That switch is annoying though. When ever i have a sticky switch i will soak it in 3 in 1 oil overnight then drain it and blow it out with compressed air. 8 out of 10 times its a long term fix. Im sure a dozen people will chime in of why i shouldn't do that but you know what it has worked for me many many times without incident. Nice fix other than the switch.🙂
Had been waiting to see the rest of this. Nice work Matt. Satisfying to see the completion of your restoration.
Love 2 see more tool repairs. Very informative.
Top work as always👍🏼
The strange part over the small gear is there to fling out the grease that will collect around the shaft and put it back into circulation. Without that over the time grease will be packed at that spot. Collected from the big gear and squeezed of from the small gear in to the space around the shaft. The surface speed of the shaft ist not big enough fling out the grease so it will not move along the gearbox-walls and move back on the big gear. Because of the slinging action the grease will get a better circulation and with that an even use.
Matt could you possibly fit two of those narrow belts on? Would be wide enough then? Great job..
The bore is dis-aligned because of the heat from the melting bushing. it's the same principle you use to straighten shafts and tubes but in reverse. Heat one side to make that side shrink and bend the tube. You can straiten it back by heating the opposite side. It needs some time to get it right. It's easy overdone. But i would not worry about the misalignment it will take years before it is a problem.
For future reference, those bearings look like they're easy to get, unless there's something about your bearings I'm not realizing. Searching on Ebay turned up lots of results. Search for the size. Adding a brand name will help avoid the no-name brands. For example, you could get an SKF 607 bearing for about $7.50. I've bought lots of name-brand bearings on Ebay and Amazon.
I have two of these sanders. I've had problems with the larger bakelite drive gear (connected to the drive roller), but was able to repair it.......more or less. The issue now is bushings and bearings. McMaster Carr does not seem to have the right bushings. Can you provide a link to the source(s) that you used for the bushings? Thank you, Carter.
Great review.Please can you tell me where I can buy the small belt wheel pulley.
The idler wheel is completely worn out. it will not make a problem in a month or year but after that the open space will collect dust and it will act as abrasive on the shaft and wheel, until it starts to touch. I would make a nylon bushing. Make it with course thread on the outside and glue it in then bore the center to the right size. You might need to make a new shaft also. With some good lube it will hold up for 10 years
I would agree. I might see if I can get the Festool Replacement. Otherwise I'll have to find another solution.
I'm going through my AEG sander I purchased new in the late 80s. It's been the best sander ever. Trouble now is finding parts. Particularly the belt. I have the original from PowerGrip that was sold to Gates. 51.8840 has not been found. I wonder if two of the ones you found would work? And where you found it? I as well love keeping tools in service. Seems the best thing to help contribute to being "greener". Thanks for video!
100XL075
Could be better. That front wheel must be fixed. I'm owning same machine, but METABO brand, honestly very well machine, also I'm owning HOLZHER 2424, you can see what is powerful machine. My opinion is that Holzher is main brand for production of this design, because has all Pallet of them.
Really enjoyable rebuild. Odd question. Do you or any fellow viewers know a source for the electrical washer head machine screws found on the back of that shop switch you briefly showed at the end, and then tossed off camera? The best I’ve been able to spec by measurement is M4 0.70 and 1/4” long. I’ve been searching and trying out proxies - which all fall short - for a couple of months. Weird size, style, and material.
Side note: I bought the switches - same Asian OEM - from ShopFox on Amazon, who just said “heck we don’t know (or care).” Took them permanently off my shopping list for a mill and a lathe. That completely reinforced what I’ve heard about their parts and service.
I believe they are called "Cheese-head" or "Fillister Head" screws. You can find brass ones on Mcmaster carr for SAE threads but usually not metric. They seem to have fallen out of favor as I see them a lot in pre 1990 power tools but hardly at all anymore.
@@GermanToolReviews sorry I'm so behind - been sick again. That sir, was a very helpful tidbit!
you might wanna add link to part one to description
Just repaired a switch on a Bosch corded drill two weeks ago. The spring inside the switch was stuck. Cost = $0.
This style was sealed shut otherwise I would have taken it entirely apart as I have in the past with some older switches.
@@GermanToolReviews silicone grease.
518840 - belt code
I really don't like this wheel floating around.
Should not have removed the seals as they are prelubed to work sealed.