I just used your method to replace an undermounted bathroom sink by myself. It worked great. This was the only video that didn't say "this is a two person job". No plumber was willing to do it either. Thanks for saving me $$$
I actually had to use that threaded-rod system to remove a top-mounted sink that was glued/grouted in. At first, I tried using a floor jack from below, but it started detaching the top half of my cabinet from the bottom, so I had to resort to something that compressed the surrounding materials rather than pulling them apart.
Helpful information on the bathroom sink installation from underneath. I tried the Bar C Clamp idea first the angle was the problem looked at RUclips videos your idea is easier and cheaper.
A speed clamp with the limiter removed works well too. Luckily my previous sink had small brackets that I can reuse instead of having to install straps.
Never found the strapping necessary. I’ve done four of these on granite with 100% silicone and none have failed in 7 years. Nice idea for holding it in place.
Colin! This is a very good video - I will show it to one of my coworkers ( I am a licensed plumber ). who is not a plumber. The company sent him on an undermount sink job which I was supposed to do and the poor guy was under the sink trying to install it ( somehow ???? ). The sink fell on him almost breaking his nose and leaving a big gash on it. Guess what? The "installed" sink fell off the counter again. What has this guy done to the sink - I have no idea! Just shaking my head...
I watched my sink get installed and they put a small 1/4" bead of silicone all around, I said you need to put more on, they said no you don't need it. Well i had to remove that sink today, I liked to never got it unstuck.
Colin: great video! good advice to use "more" silicon rather than less. Question is how many silicon tubes? you showed only 1, but appears we need 2, correct ? Thanks
great demonstration. my only two cents is that I would worry that the plain silicone you used wouldn't be as strong as an epoxy or construction adhesive like PL for example, to hold the sink over time?
I'm not a pro by any means, but I'm thinking you would want to use a high quality silicone instead of a epoxy based glue so the sink can be removed if necessary in the future.
@@nubsack6142 Many pros use "Black Mamba" adhesive. It's a pain to remove but eliminates strapping etc... The seal between the bowl and the underside of the counter is not going to be a big "leak" concern. These bowls aren't very often the subject of a replacement. I've got one, out of 37 recent homes built, that got damaged bad enough to need replacement. It got scratched by the electrical guys, I think. Using construction adhesive adds a potential couple of hours of additional prep/cleaning to a replacement. Sometimes they come off as easy as a silicone situation. Some counter companies use silicone and scraps of granite to fashion redundant glued/caulked in wedge blocks instead of a strap situation. They function like the metal clips on an old stainless under mount.
My sink is sagging on one side. Can I use this wood 2x4 with king threaded metal piece and just fill in the gaps with some 100% silicone and hold it up ? (and I guess scrape away to clean a little first). Below my sink can the dark PVC of the drain underneath and even a white section of PVC too, support the drain with the bottom wood block up against it or do you think the PVC will crack to pieces? My sink is only sagging on one side. In afraid to take the whole drain mechanism out. I’d rather just put 100% silicone in the 1” gap and use your method to hold it back up. Once dry, I’ll also add a belt and bracket to the back of the cabinet. I wonder if the wood block can go against the pvc pipes below the drain without removing them or if the pvc will crack to pieces. My drain underneath has a lever that moves a little metal thing up and down inside, and after disconnecting the p trap, I realize I could get the 3/8” long threaded thing in the drain, but I’d still have the dark PVC below the drain and also some white PVC section, could I just put the bottom wood piece below and let the weight rest on the PVC black and white parts?
Is 100% silicone really strong enough as an adhesive? What about liquid nails or gorilla glue? I can’t do the strapping because I have drawers on each side of the sink.
![[TF2] The Russian Bear Trap](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YFNSwz2_rOA/mqdefault.jpg)
I just used your method to replace an undermounted bathroom sink by myself. It worked great. This was the only video that didn't say "this is a two person job". No plumber was willing to do it either. Thanks for saving me $$$
Awesome, glad you saved some $$$$!
I gave this vid a thumbs up because of the socks under 2x4!!!
Was quoted $200 to get them here and $240 to install! Thank you do’s much!
I've owned my contracting business for over 10 years.......I'd hire you today.
Great video, saturday I will repace mine, then I will tell you how it works.
I actually had to use that threaded-rod system to remove a top-mounted sink that was glued/grouted in. At first, I tried using a floor jack from below, but it started detaching the top half of my cabinet from the bottom, so I had to resort to something that compressed the surrounding materials rather than pulling them apart.
Helpful information on the bathroom sink installation from underneath. I tried the Bar C Clamp idea first the angle was the problem looked at RUclips videos your idea is easier and cheaper.
I’m glad it helped!
A speed clamp with the limiter removed works well too. Luckily my previous sink had small brackets that I can reuse instead of having to install straps.
Never found the strapping necessary. I’ve done four of these on granite with 100% silicone and none have failed in 7 years. Nice idea for holding it in place.
Colin!
This is a very good video - I will show it to one of my coworkers ( I am a licensed plumber ). who is not a plumber.
The company sent him on an undermount sink job which I was supposed to do and the poor guy was under the sink trying to install it ( somehow ???? ). The sink fell on him almost breaking his nose and leaving a big gash on it.
Guess what?
The "installed" sink fell off the counter again.
What has this guy done to the sink - I have no idea!
Just shaking my head...
I like your idea, it would be good for kitchen sinks, thanks for the tips.
Very helpful video. Thanks man!!!!
Great job keeping it basic. thank you.
Thats an awesome solution! Thank you
I watched my sink get installed and they put a small 1/4" bead of silicone all around, I said you need to put more on, they said no you don't need it. Well i had to remove that sink today, I liked to never got it unstuck.
Great tip. Thank you
Nice socks great job
Colin: great video! good advice to use "more" silicon rather than less. Question is how many silicon tubes? you showed only 1, but appears we need 2, correct ? Thanks
Hmmmm honestly I can’t remember. It’s always safe to buy extra, and return whatever you don’t end up using.
Thanks, Colin. Can you show or describe putting on the strapping?
great demonstration. my only two cents is that I would worry that the plain silicone you used wouldn't be as strong as an epoxy or construction adhesive like PL for example, to hold the sink over time?
I'm not a pro by any means, but I'm thinking you would want to use a high quality silicone instead of a epoxy based glue so the sink can be removed if necessary in the future.
@@nubsack6142 Many pros use "Black Mamba" adhesive. It's a pain to remove but eliminates strapping etc...
The seal between the bowl and the underside of the counter is not going to be a big "leak" concern. These bowls aren't very often the subject of a replacement. I've got one, out of 37 recent homes built, that got damaged bad enough to need replacement. It got scratched by the electrical guys, I think.
Using construction adhesive adds a potential couple of hours of additional prep/cleaning to a replacement. Sometimes they come off as easy as a silicone situation.
Some counter companies use silicone and scraps of granite to fashion redundant glued/caulked in wedge blocks instead of a strap situation. They function like the metal clips on an old stainless under mount.
smart using threaded rod should really use stainless sink clamps from sink to countertop for uniform support
Use Black Mamba, its so fast and easy.
Great video, did you just used glue to hold the sink or did your also used sink clips?
I used straps under for extra support.
My sink is sagging on one side. Can I use this wood 2x4 with king threaded metal piece and just fill in the gaps with some 100% silicone and hold it up ? (and I guess scrape away to clean a little first). Below my sink can the dark PVC of the drain underneath and even a white section of PVC too, support the drain with the bottom wood block up against it or do you think the PVC will crack to pieces? My sink is only sagging on one side. In afraid to take the whole drain mechanism out. I’d rather just put 100% silicone in the 1” gap and use your method to hold it back up. Once dry, I’ll also add a belt and bracket to the back of the cabinet. I wonder if the wood block can go against the pvc pipes below the drain without removing them or if the pvc will crack to pieces. My drain underneath has a lever that moves a little metal thing up and down inside, and after disconnecting the p trap, I realize I could get the 3/8” long threaded thing in the drain, but I’d still have the dark PVC below the drain and also some white PVC section, could I just put the bottom wood piece below and let the weight rest on the PVC black and white parts?
Colin, how do you find time to do this and teach? You must be busy! Good video - See you at work
Is 100% silicone really strong enough as an adhesive? What about liquid nails or gorilla glue? I can’t do the strapping because I have drawers on each side of the sink.
you need clips
No P-trap?
What is the long tool called ?.. can i get it at lowes?
It’s is called Ready Rod. It’s basically a really long bolt. You will need some washers and nuts to go with it.
It's called all thread in my neck of the woods !
It is threaded rod , 3/8 "