How I fit an undermount sink for EASY MAINTENANCE
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- Опубликовано: 22 окт 2022
- In this video I’m showing you my approach to fitting an undermount sink, which mostly involves preparing the base unit for the worktop installers! 3 sinks and 2 taps later and we’re just about done!
Couple of corrections / updates to this one here:
gosforthhandyman.com/correcti...
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#Kitchen #DIY #Sink 
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Couple of corrections / updates to this one here:
gosforthhandyman.com/corrections/
I had a job recently where the client had a very small sink like this. They disliked it so much because it was ridiculously small. After much deliberation and discussion I ended up cutting the quartz worktop in situ and fitting a top mount sink with drainer.
Anyway… the trick to removing an under mount sink is to lower base cabinet. and the trick to lowering a sink cabinet is to not trap it in place by passing plumbing through the back panel! (One of my biggest hates) Always, always remove the back panel of a sink cabinet. The void behind the back panel is where most of the plumbing should be located. Makes it easier to repalce the sink cabinet too, which as it goes is far more likely than having to change a dented sink.
Very helpful, thank you
Yea we sell those 1.5 sink bowls, we only ever put them in a 700mm base unit if they are undermount, the reason they say they can fit in a 600 is because those sinks can be over mount as well, on top for laminates (no drainer grooves of course)
Makes sense! 👍
If you needed to remove a undermount sink at some later date you simply remove the 600 cabinet by lowering it on the legs and then sliding it out with the sink still in place.
@@Anon-y-mouse You only need to lower the unit a few millimeters - 5 to 10mm will do.
I see your 600 cabinet is fixed to the wall via L- brackets. Absolute nightmare getting to these fixings with the sink in place, so you wouldn't be able to lower it.
Unfortunately the sink will be stuck to the underside of the worktop so wouldn't come out with the base unit anyway, don't ask me how I know 😉
Looks good Andy. I love your attention to detail and always thinking into the future. Wise indeed. The tops look lovely from that small glimpse we got at the end.
What a lovely bright kitchen. Top job as always Andy 🌞
This is an almost exact copy of the issue I found with my 1.5 sink. I ended up just sucking it up and hoping that I never needed to replace it! 😂
Yeah, it's a nightmare - look after your sink!
Another top job. I'm also amazed how much lighter your kitchen looks with the white counter top. It really bounces the light . 👍
Dude you are a fantastic workman! I hardly ever get to a maintenance job and find the first fixer had time to think ahead about access for future maintenance! Fantastic job 👍👌
Nice job Andy.....I like your "think maintenance" premise.
Cheers Stewart!
What an absolute puzzle - thanks for going thru all the logic
A good quality stainless sink will outlast your kitchen no problem. Been in the business for 35yrs and have never seen a worktop being removed to replace a stainless sink.
Been to many callouts for damaged sinks! Mostly big knives being dropped in. Most live with the damage when they realise what's involved to replace the sink. 👍
Looks absolutely mint 👍
Cheers bud!
The fitters who did our kitchen added blocks of moisture resistant MDF at the top of all the base units as extra support for the worktop which was measured, supplied and fitted by a specialist. All did a fine job. I like the extra brackets, supports etc. You're in danger of over engineering like Tim! Keep up the good work.
Ha cheers John!
Great 'real world' video full of useful advice. Thank you.
Nice work. Love your vids. Also ref the tap , always use a 35mm hole as it’s the industry standard (I work in the industry), means you’ll have no issues changing it later. Looking forward to to next video 👍👍
Probably what they used. 👍
Great advice and a great job
I really enjoy your work. Pleasure as always
Hi sir very good idea, and future proof . One thing I will say after a few years it’s surprising how you can forget how you did something , I’ve just replaced a ceramic tap valve on a bath. Which in its self was no easy task , as in tracking down the right part for the job . Good old EBay for that one , but my point is I couldn’t remember we’re I’d put the isolation valve to turn the water off and I’d put it in in the first place . I think there’s a lot to be said for a house manual , as you do each project we make a record of everything that is hidden . After say ten years it’s surprising what you forget , even the colour of the pant if you need to do a touch up . Thanks again for your channel its always very informative and well presented, you seem to have a natural way with your presentation. Best wishes and kind regards to your all 😀👍👍👍
Hi , just about to order diy kitchen, appreciate you didn’t get quartz worktop from them but wondered what colour/ style you got, I think it looks fantastic . Thanks Susan
Nicely done Andy. I am loving the attention to long term planning stuff. My maintenance plan is move house before it goes wrong again. Not sure it's a good plan though. LOL.
Love it! 😂
Did that to save a re-dec on one flat
It look really smart with the to on.
My stone guys actually put a couple of screw inserts in the stone in my quartz top for this, and then used an epoxy to mount/seal it. I’ve never seen anyone in Australian support a sink with battons. I’m pretty sure you will never have issues with that coming off 😁
Nice! I've never seen an installer around here bolt in to the stone, but know it can be done. 👍
@@GosforthHandyman Neither had I until this last install. Normally just suck on with silicone on previous jobs. Still, anything to do with quartz is a job for the professionals if you ask me. It's too expensive to risk voiding any warranty on.
We had exactly the same cooke and Lewis sink under mounted on LG himacs it took me ages to do but worth it in the end 👍
Interesting to see how they do it over there. Every granite/quarts install I've ever done has had the sink hole cut on site. A metal strapping is used to hold it until the silicone dries. Screwed on to each side of the cabinet.
My undermount sink which was fitted by the quartz fitting guys is literally just fitted with silicone/adhesive, 4 years later it’s still going strong 💪🏻
Smashing job Andy. Couldn't help but noticing that your clamps have what appears to be masking tape on the end of them and was wondering why.
eye safety i reckon, trust me, it's easy to not see a narrow black edge when working in close proximity
When I fit under mounted sink I cut a piece of board and pocket hole it from underneath about 3mm below the top of the unit 👍
Great job🙂sometimes sink have to be closer to the edge because some taps need bigger gap to avoid any conflict with upstand.This only applies to lever taps where the lever needs a backward throw.Nice kitchen🙂
Ha, well I forgot to mention this was our 2nd tap for that exact reason. 😂
@@GosforthHandyman 😃😃😃😃life my friend.We all learn from our mistakes🙂I am fixing 80 kitchens every year and mistakes happen.Great channel🤝.
When I had mine done last year, they just wanted the sink and tap on site for templating so that they didn't have to rely on drawings. Mine is a double bowl sink in a 1200 unit. It does not reach the sides of the unit. The guy marked how much of the front rail to cut out, and a bit of a notch at the top of the center post. He said they use epoxy to fix it, and that it does not need any support from below. If it falls off, that is covered by guarantee, but he's never known one to come loose. Not sure how I would get it off if needed, probably just heat.
They did prop it up with some wood when they fitted it. Left that for a few days as had to wait for the plumber anyway.
Love the look of your white worktops. I was boring and went for black granite. (also scared of stains)
This "Think maintenance" is so right and I'll try to live up to it! And thanks for your wishes at the end! By the way "Tadybye"? Where's that from?
Always enjoy your channel and appreciate your work. We can all obsess over details that are basically pointless in the big picture. It's taken me some yrs to get over that. Functionality of any kitchen is always improved with a large sink and your first version looked great. As big as you could squeeze into the cabinet and the hinge issue could be overcome. You obsesses over the snug fit hampering a future repair that is maybe 0.01% likely to happen. In many yrs of trade work I have never 'repaired' a SST sink. Each subsequent house and kitchen reno, I have put in larger sinks and they are always a huge hit.
I siliconed an under mount sink to the top of the counter in one installation to accommodate a custom concrete counter top made by the home owner. Counter was made in manageable sections off site with seams sealed on site. It had an apron front design for a HUGE single bowl sink. It was a spectacular counter with fossil details cast into the concrete that polished up beautifully. The lip of the under mount sink only sticks up 0.18mm higher than the counter, compared to a conventional top mounts that have quite a lip to overcome the thinner metal used for economy.
In the end you are the designer and owner so need to be happy with the result.
I also thought the single sink looked a bit mean and too small for the kitchen, but then it's not mine.
nice job
Thanks Andy. Another excellent and informative video. I'm going to stick with an overmount sink 😂
Never could see the point in that half-bowl so when I replaced mine I put in a single bowl composite top mount sink - much better to have a larger bowl and draining board. First time for everything but I'm very pleased with my handy work although I don't intend replacing this one anytime soon.
The half bowl is handy if you don't have a dishwasher, so you can empty stuff down the sink even while you're doing the dishes. But pointless since we have a dishwasher. 😁
Lovely look8ng kitchen.
You had me worried about supporting the sink as I didn't do that on mine but it's been in 6 years now so hopefully won't fall out. Couldn't live without a 1.5 bowl now. Ours was in a 1000 corner base unit though. Still tight to the top left hand hinge and couldn't fit the soft closer on it. Good choice on colour. We went for black and it shows every little finger mark.
Thank you for making this video, it keeps REAL kitchen fitters like me in work. Not enough space for how wrong you are on so many levels. I’m fitting a 1.5 bowl under mount sink on my next job in solid laminate, shall I tell the customer that I don’t want to fit it coz I’m not good enough?😂. If you ever need to remove a sink, (almost never in my 35 years of kitchen fitting), you can drop the unit and slide it out, then drop the sink. You only need to support the sink with a shelf if it’s a undermount ceramic. As for the sink being in the way of the hinge, common problem, just re-drill the door lower down and cap the other hinge hole. You also, ALWAYS need to batten the wall if you’re having solid surface, all reputable granite/quartz companies insist on it. As for the front rail of granite being ‘weak’, ‘it might break if a tradesman stands on it’, also it might break if a tree falls through the window😂 quick, brick the windows up! Are you a prepper by any chance? Comedy gold this vid. Thank you. 😂
Exactly what I was thinking! Over cautious beyond belief! It’s only a stainless steel sink
He’s not a kitchen fitter he’s doing his own kitchen. As he has said, he was a handyman and has been asked many times to remove people’s damaged sinks so of course he’s going to do his with easy maintenance in mind. Also he’s definitely capable of moving a hinge, he was obviously just listening all the things involved with the first scenario.
A sink base unit with a 150mm vertical front rail would have the strength and also have a lower set top hinge for the door as well as hiding the sink too. I normally leave the final method of setting up the sink once the templater is on site, just in case. Making sure the sink is removable is something I always factor in, I had enough bad experiences in the early days to remind me to do it for these types of sink.
Good job👍
Yes, I was about to mention a front rail, that's what I have. Not sure how easy mine will be to remove though! Probably just sell the house if I break it, then it's somebody else's problem.
Cheers John! Yeah, the templater tweaked the position slightly anyway, so was happy to follow his lead. 👍
Mate, you install kitchen sinks better then I'd trust the pros to do it, well done
Hi Andy
The tap Hole is standard 35mm
saludos
Gerardo
looks great, well done. I have fitted an undermount sink before and like you said videos on how to do it are few and far between. instructions that came with it were a joke.
as a plumber one tip when doing sinks is to fit your wastes & overflows on the sink before you fit it, if possible. just makes it easier to do it from a comfy position.
all the best
I like the forward thinking and how you made your own support for the new sink 👌🏼🧱👍🏼
Andy I learnt these lessons the hard way and now like you , I always think access and maintenance , great job as always , the silicone will be a bugger to remove but some chemicals will help. Question , what about if you have a white or coloured kitchen , what could you use to support it ?
Oak still if you wanted, just paint it the colour of your cabinets
Thanks for the tips Mr Mac, hopefully within the next 2 / 3 years my old early 1970`s is being knocked down and I will be geting a newer up to date new Bungalow and I will be fitting some new Kitchen cupboards and your showing and talks on the kichen units have been really usefull & helpfull to me. Hope Mrs Mac is loving her new Kitchen. 😁😁😁😁
No worries and good luck with yours!
In Canada, we typically use a 32" or 36" sink base (so 800mm-900mm ish). Almost always use a dual basin sink as well. Spoiled North Americans, eh! A 600mm sink base cab would be used in something like a powder room or bathroom. Loving this kitchen, Andy.
Ha, 600mm units are the big ones over here! 😁
Would love to know where you got the worktop and how much did it cost? Did you look for a local fitter?
Hi there i just wanted to ask what the plactic brackets that you used? I lole the look of them for general use
Why do you have a double socket in the wet zone of the sink?
What’s your view on the drainer grooves cut into the worktop? I am getting a quartz top and have opted not to have the grooves as my mum has them and told me they don’t drain and have very little use other than aesthetic.
what silicone did you use ? - great video
Great video as always. Is it me or is that sink seriously small? Not sure we could cope with that. We could not do without a half bowl. Of course that's personal thing. Interesting to see how you get on with the sharp corners in the bowl.
Once you've had a half bowl, you'll never go back. As they say.
Do you have a dishwasher? We very rarely use the sink. 👍😁
@@GosforthHandyman I do have a dishwasher, but the big part of the sink always has a basin in, so the half gets used for rinsing, hand washing etc.
@@GosforthHandyman Yep! It's me! 😂😂
@@GosforthHandyman like to see your mrs do the oven trays in that sink dishwasher won’t clean them
Understand “think maintenance” but the fact is most people will NEVER have to remove a sink themselves or even at all. It’s more likely that the kitchen will get replaced before the sink ever needs to be removed.
But he will be replacing it if it needs doing so he’s making life easier for himself. And sod’s law if he can’t get it out, it’ll need doing
I was thinking that I've never seen a damaged steel sink in my working life, 63yoa now.
Hopefully you can find that exact sink size later if you do need to replace it.
Pretty standard size. 👍
Well done bro, becoming master craftsman……
Our fitters used aluminum square tubing as support
Interested to see how you install the tap. Is there enough access behind the sink?
Yeah, there was plenty room - just one bolt holds it in. 👍
Was it not possible to router a horizontal slot to allow you to slide your double sink in from the front, yes I appreciate you would have to move the hinge still but at least you could of kept to the original plan. Love the chanel as been following the house build. Really like the kitchen nice job. 😎
Wren kitchens make an undermount sink support which you can adjust up and down
👍
Looks identical to my new kitchen (Jewsons) same colour with a white quartz worktop - we went for an over mount sink. Bit more old fashioned, but much easier to remove/replace. Plus I don't like how hard it is to clean the silicon edge of an undermount - out of sight bio hazard!
Fantastic! 👍
If the sink is glued to the countertop with silicone it will not be easy to remove the sink to change it out, maybe even impossible to do so. Support the sink using undermount sink brackets where you can elevate the sink using adjustable posts where you can lift the sink to the countertop, then put a thin bead of caulk to the joint for waterproofing. The support is from below and the sink can be quickly removed.
If you'd used space plugs at the back you could potentially just pull out the whole unit to replace the sink. Slide it back in and use the feet to keep it up to the required height.
Not without also removing the dishwasher, all of the waste plumbing and a lot of the supply plumbing. Plus the unit would be siliconed to the worktop. 👍
You could have cut the front rail out and reinstalled it vertically at the front. 60-70mm is achievable in depth before most hinge plates on the sides. If you make the rail detachable, a new sink could be slid into place if needed.
Makes sense. I have a front rail, 140mm. Not sure how it's been fixed in, but if there's a problem with the sink, then I'll be hacking it out with the multi tool! Fairly simple to replace. Would have been an ideal situation for pocket hole screws at the front of the rail, for easy removal.
Defo an option, not my preference though.
@@GosforthHandyman can I ask why? I'm curious to see if I'm missing something. Is there a strength difference between the vertical and horizontal pieces? I mean, even the horizontal piece could remain, and just be fitted from underneath with pocket screws, which would still leave plenty support for the worktop I'd have thought (I'm not a fan of pocket screws, but they're not as flimsy as portrayed either). The only other downside I can see is that you'd have to remove a small part ( just over the thickness of the sink lip) of the carcass to allow the sink to slide out, but that could be done neatly with a multi tool at the point of sink failure, and repaired to be invisible from above the worktop when the door is closed (99% of the time). Or is it the look of the vertical piece? I can't think that'd matter when you're only seeing a sink bottom otherwise.
Nice one Andy. I totally agree with future maintenance planning. It might seem a long way off when you've just installed a new kitchen but you will certainly be smiling to yourself if you need to get at it in the future. Great foresight . 👍👍
I live near Gosforth and i was wondering if you could tell me the company you used for the rendering on the outside of the extension?
For the front oak brace couldn’t you have screwed from bottom up so you could unscrew and remove it if necessary.
Can't say I agree with this one, you will always regret a smaller sink, even split sinks are a waste of time. Biggest you can go is the way to go. I've made that mistake and changed the sink without any complications. And yes it was an undermounted sink.
What you didn't admit to is ordering the wrong base unit. A larger base unit would have allowed for maintenance.
Can't get over how tiny that sink is! I would have trouble washing cooking pots or cookie sheets in there.
I got exact same problem. Don't buy small sinks!
I’m working on first fix electrics ahead of plastering. DIY kitchen units are heading to me in a couple of weeks. What are your socket heights from the floor? They look ideal with the upstand.
They're about 1170mm from finished floor. 👍
Keep in mind if you are tiling as well to try and keep the back box inline with a tile edge :D
@@GosforthHandyman is that 1170 to the top of the sockets?
I have been after the Grohe sink for a few months now and everywhere i have tried to get it from have told me there is a 12 month wait for that sink which has also been updated to a newer model now.
Glad we didn't wait around for it! Date just kept being pushed back and pushed back. Interestingly even on the screenshot on the vid it says "Available"... but not until November. Shame, nice sink!
@@GosforthHandyman yes I only found out about the time scale after contacting Victorian plumbing and getting no where so i then contacted Grohe direct and some suppliers which all said 12 months. I've since been looking at Sterling sinks but im still torn between waiting for a Grohe as im also waiting for Neff/AO to replace my broken oven before i can fit the kitchen
Nice job Andy - good decision on the single sink.😀👍
if the sink is being silconed in strongly enough to support the weight of a full sink, does that not cause potential issues when it comes to e to replace the sink ? I can imagine the worktop getting damaged while trying to free the sink
I've never seen a sink damaged so that it needed to be removed. How is that possible?
Maybe not a stainless steel one, but a ceramic one I could see it happening.
No way mines coming out though
Seen it several times unfortunately! Most commonly it's big knives falling in to the sink pointy side down and causing quite bad dents. I also saw one where a stone pestle & mortar feel in the sink and damaged the area around the waste hole. Not a fun job to replace!
@@GosforthHandyman ah, ok, yeah I can see that happening.
I'll have to take the worktop out, should I ever need to do mine.
I also remember thinking when I fitted it, that if the waste was to ever come lose, it wouldn't be going back on... I put some silicone on it to be safe, 🤣🤣
When your mum throws a heavy cleaver across the room at your dad and it bounces off the wall into the sink and pierces the basin.
@@GosforthHandyman TBH the steel being used nowadays isn't the same as that used a few decades ago. I've got a council contract stainless steel drainer sink thats about 25 years old and its solid. Dropped cleavers into it, and no dents.
Did your countertop come with those draining grooves or did you make them yourself?
nice
Could you not use a couple of 12mm steel band straps instead of the Oak shelf.
design your fixings on your base unit so you can pull the complete unit out sink and all
I faced the same dilemma and came to the same conclusion. In theory (because I haven't had to do it for real) I designed it so the whole unit could be removed. Legs could be wound down, the sealant cut and the whole unit pulled out
Not easy when the adjoining unit is a dishwasher. 👍
Thanks for the insights.
Has anyone got a good link for doing it with a wooden countertop. I’m guessing most of the tips on this one hold for wood countertops. But there might be other specific gotcha points.
Thanks again.
You can just use the supplied sink clips and screw into the underside of the worktop
Wooden countertops do seem more popular in the UK than in the US.
@@Bobrogers99 its interesting isn’t it. I half tell myself that wooden surfaces and nicer and gentler but really I think it’s just personal taste. I guess the harder stone top gives cleaner lines. Probably less maintenance. It’s very popular in Ireland. But I just don’t warm to it. I like iroko wood myself. Heat resistant. Rot resistant if looked after and installed right.
Anyway. Horses for courses. To each their own.
Yup, I'm pretty sure this sink came with the clips for wooden tops... although no idea what I did with them. 🤔😂
Another good job. It’s a shame you lost your half sink. Where are you going to clean your paint brushes with white spirit and fairy liquid? 😊
Ha ha, paintbrushes are defo banned from this sink. 😂👍
We've got posh sinks like those at work, bits of rice always get stuck in the corners.
I have a lovely pressed steel ? white enamel sink, integral double drainer fold up integral splashback to 2/3rs of a tile course, rolled up at front so most water splashes run back into the sink or drainer and not over the worktop . However it is 60 years old and has been "re-enameled" once and is starting to rust out at the waste - would not be a problem to treat but I have no spare space to do work and still live in property on daily basis as such ( normally i would run a temp camper van plastic sink If I needed to do work in a kitchen refurb ). Ideally I would like a replacement and have a better one with an extra half insert - that is useful for washing brushes / food pre-wash when needed / jars and plastic items and overall longer (As I have a wall length I can re-model If I pull a redundant flue out of the kitchen. So no need for worktop as such - other than a couple of side unit runs with proper formica on blockboard, does the job.
You can actually get adjustable metal brackets that go the full width of the cabinet so 600mm which are then attached to the cabinets and I put 2 in to support the sink Wren actually supply them with there kitchens cheers
They do but they wouldn't sell them to me as a part because kitchen wasn't from them.
Yup! Although I already had the wood and brackets. 👍😁
Our daughter’s sink has become unstuck again. The person who fitted it only just used silicone with no other supports. Now I can see u need clips, straps or wooden supports as her worktop is a composite solid laminate. Thank u as I understand what is required now.
Where r u based?
I am at this stage in my DIY-Kitchens install and have already realised that kitchen fitting is not an art form, it's just a series of over-the-top and belt and brace bodges to make things fit. There is no instruction manual.
Awesome job as per. Seems tiny compared to the size of your kitchen mind you.
The sink does look small. My neighbor just installed a much larger one, but she uses very large pots quite often that need to be hand washed. If the Mac family chef is satisfied with this one, then it will work. For something that's too large, take it out to the back deck and use the garden hose. ;-)
We went for bench space over big sink. Got the dishwasher so the sink is rarely used. 👍
Who did the quartz?
Why do people insist on putting electricity boxes behind sinks. In the event of a water leak you do not want any electric near or behind sinks, even if you want waste disposal unit next to the sink you do not need to put the socket behind the sink
I am surprised you didn't go for another lxt Makita drill since you're already in the battery platform
Vid coming on that. 👍
Think
Maintainence
100% True
Would silicone alone really hold that sink up if its filled with water?
Yup! No problem (generally). But you should really have some brackets as backup. 👍
I used an 800 unit for my 1.5 and even that was tight
I've never seen a shelf put directly under an undermount sink before. Normally the sink is siliconed to the bottom of the top and held up by a screw/jack system until it sets. Then it's removed. Maybe it's a UK vs Australia thing.
Who did your worktops? I'm looking for a local company
Marbleworks 👍
I have epoxied everything and it's all wrong! what do I do now??
Why did you put the extra oak under the front bar?
I always just drop the sink unit 2mm the easiest way to do it
To provide extra support for the weak point of the worktop. Seen too many over the years where that's cracked.
Why change a double sink for a single, purely for maintenance if needed. Wouldn't like to be there for that convo with the missis
Mrs Mac agreed it was pointless. 👍
Looking great. Stainless ain't what it used to be.
Don't like the plug socket under the sink?
I love it!
I like how you planned ahead of maintenance, I took the risk and has if undermounted with battens all around. I think I would have taken advantage of your 600 sink and just router out enough depth for the sink to sit on. I have the exact 400 sink you have btw, I did regret getting it as it is pretty flimsy and scratched all around within 1 month of use.
Lovely job but tiny sink. Even if it's suitable for your use it just looks disproportionate.
What's the gap for the sink , looks really small .
400mm