I spent several hours to browse in the internet. I tried to find a video to instruct me how to complete my job. This is the best to fit my job. Thanks folks! You just made today be my day.
It never ceases to amaze me that you can find a how-to video for anything on RUclips. I have exactly this problem. Thanks for creating this video. You've convinced me that this isn't a DIY project for me!
@@chrisrex617 I'm having exactly this problem. Plumbers don't want to touch the granite, and tile guys don't want to touch the pipes. Yet I can't fix my fallen sink without addressing both. Am I forced to hire TWO contractors?
Good stuff your showing for helping home owners. I'd also recommend when dismantling the sink from the counter top and scraping off the large residue from the silicon to also use a cleaning agent on the bottom of the sink cutout and on top of the existing sink. It's important especially when re-attaching to have a dry and very clean surface so the bond from the 100% silicon, which is recommend. Will have the best bond possible otherwise the probability with possible debris, with result the same thing down the road. Mild soap and water to get the majority of the mess and we use denatured alcohol or acetone, for the end clean up. Both are great, personally would use the denatured alcohol over the acetone it's a little more forgiving. Acetone having a higher evaporation is great but on some natural stone/ or engineered stones (quartz) could possible etch the inside of the sink cut out.
Caulking was used in this video as an adhesive, right ? Not adhesive like Loctite to adhere to the granite and then caulk out the outside edge? Just wondering why?
I guess I'm not understanding your question correctly. If your wondering why they used the silicon for the bond under the sink and used again on top on the sink. It is because they are making sure it is essentially air tight. The silicon acts as a bonding agent as well as a water repellant and also as a gap closer. Meaning, with no air present to ensure no aging for mildew for wear and tear, doing a second run of silicon around the top part under or sides of the sink is just making sure its sealed properly just in case there were any air pockets when the sink came in contact to the under side of the countertop. Hope this answers your question. @@________8756
Ive installed and replaced dozens of these and never once have i removed the countertop to do it unless the counter was getting replaced. And even then i would install the sink after the countertop was installed. Found it much easier that way, but i also mostly work alone.
My husband installed wood blocks screwed to the cabinet wall on the inside perimeter of the sink for additional support. It is a cast iron undermount sink that weighs 126 pounds. There was no support except for silicone/epoxy but it does have a flange that rests over the cabinet edges to either side of the sink that is hidden once the granite goes over it. Unfortunately, the sink enamel failed within a couple of months after the remodel. Kohler readily sent a replacement sink, but getting it installed has led to a dead end. We've called several companies and no one will touch it. They all say the granite will not survive removing the sink and we will have to remove the granite to get the sink out and then buy new granite again! Unfortunately, we cannot find this granite any longer and it all looks different anyway from slab to slab even if we did find it so we will have to redo the whole kitchen. We tried resurfacing the sink but it's not holding up. Replacing the sink was nice of the company, but their liability ends at sending a new sink. As far as removing the old sink and installing the new one, we are on our own. We're sick about it. We're told that we can't let it go too long since the cast iron will rust after awhile and leak since the enamel is cracked.
I am having the same issue; the mounting failed after 10 years without warning, leading to water flowing over the back of the sink. There HAS to be better way to fix this besides pulling the counter top! What a mess!
@@curtflory7147place a support underneath the sink, then unscrew the under-mount clips. Cut the adhesive, caulk, etc between the sink and the countertop using a utility knife. That should do the trick!
you could actually sue them, or threaten to, they might send you additional money. You do not need a lawyer, file it yourself. For them it might be cheaper to send you extra money, then paying a lawyer. You do not need a lawyer, because your case is as straightforward as it gets.
I have a very similar setup but my solution is quite different. I took a 4x4 and cut the size of the distance between the bottom of the waste disposal and the cabinet floor minus 3-4 inches. Then, I attached an adjustable furniture foot and give a snug fit to the space so the waste disposal does not stress the undermount sink.
My remodel guy was an idiot. Used 2 pieces of baseboard to hold sink up with 2 inch nails that were sticking in through adjoining cabinets. I said WTF and he removed baseboard pieces and left it. I thought he was going to use some support arms or something but no. He left it. Now I see he has left it so I order some EZ Clips and have to go through the pain staking process of epoxying several mounts under the counter top....quartz in my case. Then gave a couple days to cure. Attached bracket with wing nut for support. Obviously I will have to keep an eye on my clips and if one comes loose I will have to r/r the ones that need to be addressed. Thanks for the video
Trust me, the liquid nailing or using epoxy to "glue" the blocks from the bottom WILL eventually "let go" and your sink WILL fall; my sink was put up this way many years ago, 10-12, and wanna guess why I'm looking at this video? It did hold for a good number of years, but we all know when everything fails lol. I wedged a 2X4 up under my sink to temp hold it up in place and used the liquid nails fuze-it to put the blocks back up; I left the 2X4 in place through the weekend to allow plenty of time to set completely. I then measured and cut 2X4s and screwed them up under the sink horizontally from end to end, using "L" brackets on the ends of the boards and screwing them boards under the blocks to "secure" the blocks in place; this way, I have the best of two ideas and doubt my sink will ever fall again...when I'm "least ready for it to fall" lol. I then used 100% brown silicone to seal the gap on the topside where the sink and counter meet; my counter is a brownish stone, so it looks really good. I secured the 2x4s at angles to push up flush against the blocks to even out the pressure across the face of the blocks. Im certain i could stand in my sink and it not budge; but wont be testing that confidence. ANY honest contractor will tell you that glued blocks will NOT hold forever, because I'm certain they get many a calls to fix them when they "let go".
Thank you for NO MUSIC!!! My ears are pain free. So many DIY videos add loud obnoxious music which hurts the ears. This was a great video. It solves that mystery about the screws into granite too. So you use those brass fittings much like riv nuts. I'm assuming you glue those brass nuts into the granite? Not sure how they stay in there. Very nice demo on the sink.
Wow.. I have a black granite composite sink that some also has the same issues but the builder used 2x4 around the sided to keep up the sink some 17 years ago and now I am with almost the same gap around the rear toward the faucet that has a wide opening. Perhaps will have to do the same thing on another time.
@@flat-earther yes! Followed step by step and my sink has been good since then. Had to use a car jack to hold the sink up while the silicone dried up 👍
There was no need to disconnect the disposal or take out the sink. You could have just jacked up the sink and tightened the clamps. I did this with my kitchen sink.
Check out ez sink bracket. It can be a DIY. If you want to do it right however. You will need to pull all silicone off, clean and reapply silicone for a tight water proof seal. The bracket itself is an easy install. 10 Years in owning a granite fabrication company.
@@billybixby5245 100% silicone. Any variation of this will work. I prefer clear. Liquid nail is tough but I'm not sure about the quality of the water proofing. Good luck.
and this is why I HATE undermount sinks.....I have the same exact problem right now....I despise these kinds of sinks. Mine was installed way worse than this one. I had ZERO clips on mine.
All my build has plywood on top of the vanity then the sink then granite for framing purposes for the weight of the sink. Manufacturing of this sink countertop cheap out on their customers lol
I have easier and cheaper route that works better. Cut 6 1x2's that fit snug from the bottom of the cabinet to the flange part of the sink. Place one on each corner, one in the middle behind the piece of wood located in between the two cabinet doors and one in the middle on the back side of the cabinet. Silicone the lip and put sink into place and add the 1x2's, simple and cost about $3.
in Asia, it's not possible to remove the undermount sink without taking out the countertop because the sink is fixed on top of the timber cabinet before the countertop is installed. those clips will never work
Here in india we all have undermount sink. Its fitted totally differntly. First its a cheap stone on which the sink is fitted over it we fit granite.... Hard 2 explain my English is bad
I don't understand why replace the fatteners with similar that failed after 8 years? Why not wood block the sink and fasten the blocks to the cabinet wall?
Great job, Richard, but I can't believe how poorly this sink was originally installed. Why isn't there framing in the cabinet that's helping to support the sink weight? Those clips should not be all there is.
@@crystalburnham9757 yes 1 x support supports and wood screwed into the cabinet sink wall and support the sink, mush better support of the sink. Metal clips have been failing for decades and are still used!
@@bigdaddyyc I mean, there is still foul smelling crap in the lines that haven't made their way through a whole house trap. In this scenario, that odor could make its way out at the sink. This channel always speaks of the importance of individual traps at fixtures. So it was surprising to not address it here. That's all I was saying.
Those brass inserts are not that strong. What keeps them attached to the granite? Epoxy? How many are there? Four? Why? Are these expensive? Imagine the sink full of frying pans ad topped up with water, how heavy is it? Then the garbage disposal adds vibration (this may be the killer) to the whole kit and caboodle. Do the math, or do a pull-out test with a force gauge. Silicone RTV is strong, but bonding to granite, likely very porous, is not that good, and vibration and heavy static loading will make it weak. Maybe 10 or 20 clips may be enough, or some other means of support, that can take the vibration and static loading.
I'm about to install the HUSH, do you recommend attaching it to the cabinet wood? It seems like it's MDF or particle to I'm not to confident in installing it straight on that.
Why would you go back with what failed before. I had the same thing happen with a broken bond and want something that works better to begin with and won't lead to the water damage I now have from it failing the first time.
@This Old House: I have a far easier way that i used to do when fitting granite counter tops. Grab a silicone tube of C-TEC CT1. Push down the sink and remove all the old sealant from the rim. Cut 3 pieces of 2 x 4 (if you have a 2 hole sink). 1 Piece will need to be 2 inches larger then the widest dimension of the sink. The other pieces need to be 2 inches larger then the sink drainage hole. Grab some cable ties and tie 2 pairs of 3 cable ties into a loop. Run a gasket of CT1 around the center of the rim on the kitchen sink and pull it directly up onto the stone and center it with a tape. Place the small timbers under the sink drainage holes and loop the cable ties around them up through the drain holes. At the top run the large 2 x 4 through the loop and pull the cable ties as tight as you can get them. Finally crawl under the sink and twist the small 2 x 4's 360 degrees to tighten the fixture fully. Wait 24 hours and cut the cable ties. It will hold rock solid forever. No faffing around with clips or glueing support pieces or propping up the sink with a piece of wood.
This happened to my sink today, after watching your video I checked and there are no clips under the sink, whomever installed the sink only used adhesive when they upgraded the property before I purchased, can we reseal the sink or do we have to install the clips also this time around?
If the countertop has the holes for the screws then put the screws with clips and butterfly nuts to tight them and of course use clear silicon for the water. That will be the right way that only adding adhesive/silicon.
"Don't use the sink tonight, maybe take your wife out to dinner."? LOL. Maybe if she helped with this project. You should take that Richard Trethewey out to dinner, since he helped with this project.
Funny, I'm watching this video to help me understand how to install this, because although I'm a female my husband refuses to do home improvement work, so I do it all.
I saw a tv program where a guy hosted a dinner party and when he filled the undermounted sink with water, it collapsed and water went everywhere. I reckon that one was secured with just silicone around the rim.
I have exactly this problem. It boggles my mind that my sink was secured ONLY using silicone ... no brackets. Now it's fallen and I can't get seem to find one singular contractor to repair. (Tile guys won't touch the plumbing. Plumbers won't touch the tile.)
The sink in my apartment fell off last night. Maintenance has to call the contractor of my apartment to come fix it. I already know they are going to do just as terrible of a job. If I'm lucky I'll get it hot glued back on
@@adrienedavidson9930 Try to purchase two metal sink brackets, then slip the maintenance guy a couple of bucks under the table to install them before s/he reglues the sink. You're right ... Without being told, they will just reglue it, but eventually that glue will fail again. You need brackets or some other method to secure it.
I have a small quartz bathroom sink that needs holes drilled on the underside of the quartz for the epoxied male part that receives the clip screw. Can I DIY these holes or is it risky? Instead, can I just use silicone without the clips?
What did you end up doing? I think placing a couple wood beams horizontally beneath the sink and screwing them with L brackets to the cabinet walls is a strong way to hold the sink.
Undermount sinks usually come with a set of support brackets, screws and insert anchors. You mentioned that your anchors were "already in" your countertop-but you've actually EXPOXIED them into the countertop, right? That's how it looks, anyway, and how I'd do it.
Should of been on the plywood instead all the weight on the screws. I build differently for my client. The sink will be on the plywood then screws just for it doesnt move around. Will never sag or comes loose unless the plywood gets rotted
Epoxy is not a reliable way to mount sinks, although sometimes it works, sometimes it fails! Using epoxy is kind of like playing Russian Roulette sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.
Mine is epoxied and it's falling off despite the building (hence presumably the sink/granite piece) being only around 5 yr old. lol They also glued shelves and that fell off a few months ago. It's mind boggling that people want to use glue as the only thing holding sht together, especially HEAVY things like sink and shelves. Facepalm all the way.
I would take that disposal out and see just how far you can throw that piece of crap. Keep strainers in the sink and put the garbage in the trash. All they are good for is causing a plumbing issue down the road and I bet you the vibration of that junk will also cause the clips to get loose over time Garbage disposal just what it says, garbage.
I cant believe you think that’s finished, under mount sinks should always have epoxy under the sink as-well as silicone as when there is water in both sinks, there could be up to 50kg of pressure in the basin
Falitta Covington - I suspect that the " counter installers " do this all the time . Check your local companies that do granite and quartz installs . They do the original install AND they can do the repair . I am also wondering if garburetors are a good ides with under mount sinks . ( Well , don`t hire the guys who did this particular install ! )
Should have replaced the sink...this design is terrible. Relying on caulking to keep water out is bad. Water has a way of finding its way out...it's relentless.
This is completely wrong. Sinks should be strapped, not clipped, in place. I can drop a failed sink, strap it back, hook up the plumbing in an hour and a quarter. The sink cannot budge no matter how hard you press on the center; it's physics and math. Hercules Universal Sink Harness from Braxton Bragg or Sink Strap from GranQuartz. He just reinstalled the failed and leaking system.
We had same problem but used Homydom Complete Sink Repair Kit System - Never Fall Undermount Sink Installation Kit-Sink Bracket ... I was told clips not very reliable or long lasting!
Silicone will EASILY do the job without the clips. So much so that within 24 hours a 400 pound man could stand in the sink (without clips) and it would not fail. I guarntee it.
I spent several hours to browse in the internet. I tried to find a video to instruct me how to complete my job. This is the best to fit my job. Thanks folks! You just made today be my day.
It never ceases to amaze me that you can find a how-to video for anything on RUclips. I have exactly this problem. Thanks for creating this video. You've convinced me that this isn't a DIY project for me!
Good luck finding a plumber who will take this on and employ the help of a granite man.
@@chrisrex617 I'm having exactly this problem. Plumbers don't want to touch the granite, and tile guys don't want to touch the pipes. Yet I can't fix my fallen sink without addressing both. Am I forced to hire TWO contractors?
Facing the same problem. How did you solve? More importantly, did you have to hire TWO separate contractors? (One for tile, another for plumbing?)
a tip: watch movies at Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching all kinds of movies these days.
@Brycen Victor definitely, been watching on flixzone} for months myself =)
Good stuff your showing for helping home owners. I'd also recommend when dismantling the sink from the counter top and scraping off the large residue from the silicon to also use a cleaning agent on the bottom of the sink cutout and on top of the existing sink. It's important especially when re-attaching to have a dry and very clean surface so the bond from the 100% silicon, which is recommend. Will have the best bond possible otherwise the probability with possible debris, with result the same thing down the road. Mild soap and water to get the majority of the mess and we use denatured alcohol or acetone, for the end clean up. Both are great, personally would use the denatured alcohol over the acetone it's a little more forgiving. Acetone having a higher evaporation is great but on some natural stone/ or engineered stones (quartz) could possible etch the inside of the sink cut out.
Caulking was used in this video as an adhesive, right ? Not adhesive like Loctite to adhere to the granite and then caulk out the outside edge? Just wondering why?
I guess I'm not understanding your question correctly. If your wondering why they used the silicon for the bond under the sink and used again on top on the sink. It is because they are making sure it is essentially air tight. The silicon acts as a bonding agent as well as a water repellant and also as a gap closer. Meaning, with no air present to ensure no aging for mildew for wear and tear, doing a second run of silicon around the top part under or sides of the sink is just making sure its sealed properly just in case there were any air pockets when the sink came in contact to the under side of the countertop. Hope this answers your question. @@________8756
I have an appointment with a customer today,that has this exact problem....Thanks Rich, I knew you could show me how to get it right...!!!
I guess not that good...😁
Ive installed and replaced dozens of these and never once have i removed the countertop to do it unless the counter was getting replaced. And even then i would install the sink after the countertop was installed. Found it much easier that way, but i also mostly work alone.
My husband installed wood blocks screwed to the cabinet wall on the inside perimeter of the sink for additional support. It is a cast iron undermount sink that weighs 126 pounds. There was no support except for silicone/epoxy but it does have a flange that rests over the cabinet edges to either side of the sink that is hidden once the granite goes over it. Unfortunately, the sink enamel failed within a couple of months after the remodel. Kohler readily sent a replacement sink, but getting it installed has led to a dead end. We've called several companies and no one will touch it. They all say the granite will not survive removing the sink and we will have to remove the granite to get the sink out and then buy new granite again! Unfortunately, we cannot find this granite any longer and it all looks different anyway from slab to slab even if we did find it so we will have to redo the whole kitchen. We tried resurfacing the sink but it's not holding up. Replacing the sink was nice of the company, but their liability ends at sending a new sink. As far as removing the old sink and installing the new one, we are on our own. We're sick about it. We're told that we can't let it go too long since the cast iron will rust after awhile and leak since the enamel is cracked.
Did you ever get this repaired?
I am having the same issue; the mounting failed after 10 years without warning, leading to water flowing over the back of the sink. There HAS to be better way to fix this besides pulling the counter top! What a mess!
@@curtflory7147place a support underneath the sink, then unscrew the under-mount clips. Cut the adhesive, caulk, etc between the sink and the countertop using a utility knife. That should do the trick!
you could actually sue them, or threaten to, they might send you additional money. You do not need a lawyer, file it yourself. For them it might be cheaper to send you extra money, then paying a lawyer. You do not need a lawyer, because your case is as straightforward as it gets.
lol use stainless why would anyone use a fukin cast iron sink are u retarded
Great video with clear guidance on type of fixing! I’d have cleaned the surfaces more but not really seen here.
I have a very similar setup but my solution is quite different. I took a 4x4 and cut the size of the distance between the bottom of the waste disposal and the cabinet floor minus 3-4 inches. Then, I attached an adjustable furniture foot and give a snug fit to the space so the waste disposal does not stress the undermount sink.
Great video, very helpful! I have the same problem for my kitchen sink and we will try to tackle this on the weekend with help from friends.
Did you succeed?
@@flat-earther we did it in a different way to secure our sink
My remodel guy was an idiot. Used 2 pieces of baseboard to hold sink up with 2 inch nails that were sticking in through adjoining cabinets. I said WTF and he removed baseboard pieces and left it. I thought he was going to use some support arms or something but no. He left it. Now I see he has left it so I order some EZ Clips and have to go through the pain staking process of epoxying several mounts under the counter top....quartz in my case. Then gave a couple days to cure. Attached bracket with wing nut for support. Obviously I will have to keep an eye on my clips and if one comes loose I will have to r/r the ones that need to be addressed. Thanks for the video
Side mount support brackets are a much better way to support the weight of the undermount sink that those clips most people use.
Trust me, the liquid nailing or using epoxy to "glue" the blocks from the bottom WILL eventually "let go" and your sink WILL fall; my sink was put up this way many years ago, 10-12, and wanna guess why I'm looking at this video? It did hold for a good number of years, but we all know when everything fails lol. I wedged a 2X4 up under my sink to temp hold it up in place and used the liquid nails fuze-it to put the blocks back up; I left the 2X4 in place through the weekend to allow plenty of time to set completely. I then measured and cut 2X4s and screwed them up under the sink horizontally from end to end, using "L" brackets on the ends of the boards and screwing them boards under the blocks to "secure" the blocks in place; this way, I have the best of two ideas and doubt my sink will ever fall again...when I'm "least ready for it to fall" lol. I then used 100% brown silicone to seal the gap on the topside where the sink and counter meet; my counter is a brownish stone, so it looks really good. I secured the 2x4s at angles to push up flush against the blocks to even out the pressure across the face of the blocks. Im certain i could stand in my sink and it not budge; but wont be testing that confidence. ANY honest contractor will tell you that glued blocks will NOT hold forever, because I'm certain they get many a calls to fix them when they "let go".
Thank you for NO MUSIC!!! My ears are pain free. So many DIY videos add loud obnoxious music which hurts the ears.
This was a great video. It solves that mystery about the screws into granite too. So you use those brass fittings much like riv nuts. I'm assuming you glue those brass nuts into the granite? Not sure how they stay in there. Very nice demo on the sink.
Wow.. I have a black granite composite sink that some also has the same issues but the builder used 2x4 around the sided to keep up the sink some 17 years ago and now I am with almost the same gap around the rear toward the faucet that has a wide opening. Perhaps will have to do the same thing on another time.
Epic!!! This is exactly the problem I’m facing and the solution I need to fix my sink! 👍
Well how did it go did you fix your sink?
@@flat-earther yes! Followed step by step and my sink has been good since then. Had to use a car jack to hold the sink up while the silicone dried up 👍
Great job rich I'm a big fan of yours I can watch your I can watch your show for 2 hours
There was no need to disconnect the disposal or take out the sink. You could have just jacked up the sink and tightened the clamps. I did this with my kitchen sink.
Check out ez sink bracket. It can be a DIY. If you want to do it right however. You will need to pull all silicone off, clean and reapply silicone for a tight water proof seal. The bracket itself is an easy install. 10 Years in owning a granite fabrication company.
What kind of silicone? Liquid nail?
@@billybixby5245 100% silicone. Any variation of this will work. I prefer clear. Liquid nail is tough but I'm not sure about the quality of the water proofing. Good luck.
hahahah got the tenant too do the dirty work lol classic great job man work looks good
and this is why I HATE undermount sinks.....I have the same exact problem right now....I despise these kinds of sinks. Mine was installed way worse than this one. I had ZERO clips on mine.
Same problem here.... i hate them!
All my build has plywood on top of the vanity then the sink then granite for framing purposes for the weight of the sink. Manufacturing of this sink countertop cheap out on their customers lol
This undermount is nice and clean. But I think there is disadvantages of this you cannot put large amount of plate it will damage and fall down
I wonder where he took his wife after
Those anchors will not last due to the granite deterioration. We use a much stronger method now with ez sink clips
Will fail too...
I have easier and cheaper route that works better. Cut 6 1x2's that fit snug from the bottom of the cabinet to the flange part of the sink. Place one on each corner, one in the middle behind the piece of wood located in between the two cabinet doors and one in the middle on the back side of the cabinet. Silicone the lip and put sink into place and add the 1x2's, simple and cost about $3.
The HUSH mentioned above is $4.95 and not ghetto.
Great demonstration.
in Asia, it's not possible to remove the undermount sink without taking out the countertop because the sink is fixed on top of the timber cabinet before the countertop is installed. those clips will never work
This video makes a great case for not using undermount sinks.
Excellent video - thanks for your help and info!
Here in india we all have undermount sink. Its fitted totally differntly. First its a cheap stone on which the sink is fitted over it we fit granite.... Hard 2 explain my English is bad
I don't understand why replace the fatteners with similar that failed after 8 years? Why not wood block the sink and fasten the blocks to the cabinet wall?
Better yet why use blocks or fasteners at all. The silicone will not fail at all.
I saw some wires being used underneath to hold the sink, how good are those wire, are they necesary
very valuable info and process shared by you too here!! thanks
My sink just fell off because the Jacknut installer used wooden wedges and a lot of liquid nail.
Great job, Richard, but I can't believe how poorly this sink was originally installed. Why isn't there framing in the cabinet that's helping to support the sink weight? Those clips should not be all there is.
that's what I wonder too-- couldn't 1x's be at the perimeter lip of the sink and even one btwn the two sinks?
@@crystalburnham9757 yes 1 x support supports and wood screwed into the cabinet sink wall and support the sink, mush better support of the sink. Metal clips have been failing for decades and are still used!
So we are just goin to ignore that neither basin of the sink have a trap?
There could be a whole house trap.
@@bigdaddyyc whole house trap. Mmmk
@@randykephart3661 yup, look it up. More common in older homes.
@@bigdaddyyc I mean, there is still foul smelling crap in the lines that haven't made their way through a whole house trap. In this scenario, that odor could make its way out at the sink. This channel always speaks of the importance of individual traps at fixtures. So it was surprising to not address it here. That's all I was saying.
I do not believe those clips can hold for long either.
no, the same problem will happen again, trust me.
Those brass inserts are not that strong. What keeps them attached to the granite? Epoxy? How many are there? Four? Why? Are these expensive? Imagine the sink full of frying pans ad topped up with water, how heavy is it? Then the garbage disposal adds vibration (this may be the killer) to the whole kit and caboodle. Do the math, or do a pull-out test with a force gauge.
Silicone RTV is strong, but bonding to granite, likely very porous, is not that good, and vibration and heavy static loading will make it weak.
Maybe 10 or 20 clips may be enough, or some other means of support, that can take the vibration and static loading.
Use a Hercules Universal Sink Harness or a Sink Strap. I fix these in an hour and a quarter tops, and never have had a callback.
Thank you for recommending the Sink Strap!
I'm about to install the HUSH, do you recommend attaching it to the cabinet wood? It seems like it's MDF or particle to I'm not to confident in installing it straight on that.
Why would you go back with what failed before. I had the same thing happen with a broken bond and want something that works better to begin with and won't lead to the water damage I now have from it failing the first time.
How tight did you make those clips? If the other clips came loose should one occasionally re-tighten the clips, or use lock washers?
ive yet to find one with the brass inserts. ones that fell that is
Well done look easy
@This Old House: I have a far easier way that i used to do when fitting granite counter tops. Grab a silicone tube of C-TEC CT1. Push down the sink and remove all the old sealant from the rim. Cut 3 pieces of 2 x 4 (if you have a 2 hole sink). 1 Piece will need to be 2 inches larger then the widest dimension of the sink. The other pieces need to be 2 inches larger then the sink drainage hole. Grab some cable ties and tie 2 pairs of 3 cable ties into a loop. Run a gasket of CT1 around the center of the rim on the kitchen sink and pull it directly up onto the stone and center it with a tape. Place the small timbers under the sink drainage holes and loop the cable ties around them up through the drain holes. At the top run the large 2 x 4 through the loop and pull the cable ties as tight as you can get them. Finally crawl under the sink and twist the small 2 x 4's 360 degrees to tighten the fixture fully. Wait 24 hours and cut the cable ties. It will hold rock solid forever. No faffing around with clips or glueing support pieces or propping up the sink with a piece of wood.
Terrible advice. Silicone is a gasket only in this application. All the sinks you've fixed without mechanical fasteners are coming down, I promise.
Great work💪👍
This happened to my sink today, after watching your video I checked and there are no clips under the sink, whomever installed the sink only used adhesive when they upgraded the property before I purchased, can we reseal the sink or do we have to install the clips also this time around?
If the countertop has the holes for the screws then put the screws with clips and butterfly nuts to tight them and of course use clear silicon for the water. That will be the right way that only adding adhesive/silicon.
"Don't use the sink tonight, maybe take your wife out to dinner."? LOL. Maybe if she helped with this project. You should take that Richard Trethewey out to dinner, since he helped with this project.
Funny, I'm watching this video to help me understand how to install this, because although I'm a female my husband refuses to do home improvement work, so I do it all.
The installers never put clips at all just silicone. It came apart 4 years later
I saw a tv program where a guy hosted a dinner party and when he filled the undermounted sink with water, it collapsed and water went everywhere. I reckon that one was secured with just silicone around the rim.
I have exactly this problem. It boggles my mind that my sink was secured ONLY using silicone ... no brackets. Now it's fallen and I can't get seem to find one singular contractor to repair. (Tile guys won't touch the plumbing. Plumbers won't touch the tile.)
The sink in my apartment fell off last night. Maintenance has to call the contractor of my apartment to come fix it. I already know they are going to do just as terrible of a job. If I'm lucky I'll get it hot glued back on
@@adrienedavidson9930 Try to purchase two metal sink brackets, then slip the maintenance guy a couple of bucks under the table to install them before s/he reglues the sink. You're right ... Without being told, they will just reglue it, but eventually that glue will fail again. You need brackets or some other method to secure it.
Why you did not clean around the sink edge before you applied the new cement to the sink?
A clean surface will help give a cleaner connection.
Hahaha “pull the counter tops off…”
WOW. Okay… that’s a ridiculous statement. Don’t pull your counter tops for something this simple….
Very good video!! Thanks 😃
How do I get a this Old House t-shirt extra large
I have a small quartz bathroom sink that needs holes drilled on the underside of the quartz for the epoxied male part that receives the clip screw. Can I DIY these holes or is it risky? Instead, can I just use silicone without the clips?
What did you end up doing? I think placing a couple wood beams horizontally beneath the sink and screwing them with L brackets to the cabinet walls is a strong way to hold the sink.
I drilled into the underside of the countertop with a diamond tipped bit and epoxied in the female screw ends like shown already done in the video.
How much would you charge for this
Undermount sinks usually come with a set of support brackets, screws and insert anchors. You mentioned that your anchors were "already in" your countertop-but you've actually EXPOXIED them into the countertop, right? That's how it looks, anyway, and how I'd do it.
Anyone with LINK to the products shown ????
Tommy taking a break
I have never seen a garbage disposal that clean before- unless it was literally just installed
Should of been on the plywood instead all the weight on the screws. I build differently for my client. The sink will be on the plywood then screws just for it doesnt move around. Will never sag or comes loose unless the plywood gets rotted
hanging on by a thread and a disposal...and your heads underneath it....oh. thr set up was too good.
Not sure if this is a regional thing but all the sinks mounted under granite/stone around here are epoxied.
+thedge7 I have this same problem and sink as this guy. I'm switching to epoxy because this clearly will keep failing.
+Steve P look into the Hercules harness
Epoxy is not a reliable way to mount sinks, although sometimes it works, sometimes it fails! Using epoxy is kind of like playing Russian Roulette sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.
Mine is epoxied and it's falling off despite the building (hence presumably the sink/granite piece) being only around 5 yr old. lol They also glued shelves and that fell off a few months ago. It's mind boggling that people want to use glue as the only thing holding sht together, especially HEAVY things like sink and shelves. Facepalm all the way.
Should have come here 1st
NOPE!!! I'm not watching 2:30 seconds of commercials. Thanks anyway!
The scews are not rotted, they are ceroted.
WTF is ceroted?
Richard, how much should I expect to pay for this type of Repair?
There's a reason why i am watching this DIY. Hand man quoted me $150-200 for this job.
I'll charge you $300.00 minimum the install a Hercules Universal Sink Harness.
I think that's why many of us are here. I bought a set of Cinclips for $40 and will do it myself in an afternoon.
THE CONTACT SURFACE NEEDS MORE CLEANING
How? More scraping? Solvents?
Foolishness... Why use wood to prop the sink.... The best system ever ' E-Z Sink Bracket '
@YoYO Semite yeah, does ez sink bracket cost under $10? nah. once secured correctly, silicone and screw supports will keep it in place indefinitely.
Before covid
I would take that disposal out and see just how far you can throw that piece of crap. Keep strainers in the sink and put the garbage in the trash. All they are good for is causing a plumbing issue down the road and I bet you the vibration of that junk will also cause the clips to get loose over time Garbage disposal just what it says, garbage.
I cant believe you think that’s finished, under mount sinks should always have epoxy under the sink as-well as silicone as when there is water in both sinks, there could be up to 50kg of pressure in the basin
Now, who should I call to do all this? A plumber?
Falitta Covington - I suspect that the " counter installers " do this all the time . Check your local companies that do granite and quartz installs . They do the original install AND they can do the repair . I am also wondering if garburetors are a good ides with under mount sinks . ( Well , don`t hire the guys who did this particular install ! )
SurfaceLink
Should have replaced the sink...this design is terrible. Relying on caulking to keep water out is bad. Water has a way of finding its way out...it's relentless.
This is completely wrong. Sinks should be strapped, not clipped, in place. I can drop a failed sink, strap it back, hook up the plumbing in an hour and a quarter. The sink cannot budge no matter how hard you press on the center; it's physics and math. Hercules Universal Sink Harness from Braxton Bragg or Sink Strap from GranQuartz.
He just reinstalled the failed and leaking system.
We had same problem but used Homydom Complete Sink Repair Kit System - Never Fall Undermount Sink Installation Kit-Sink Bracket ... I was told clips not very reliable or long lasting!
Silicone will EASILY do the job without the clips. So much so that within 24 hours a 400 pound man could stand in the sink (without clips) and it would not fail. I guarntee it.
This isn't very helpful. What if you don't have those brass insets?
Drill holes and put some in.
@@leehancock2782 Yeah... I'd love to see how many people crack the granite with that tip.
nobody thinks what i think
Absolutely NOT what you should do. I can’t believe they aired this video. Welcome to false hopes and future problems if you do this.
What's the problem with what they did and how do you suggest to do it