nothing can beat a classic for those we start watching you channel 10 + years ago we love old school, and skunkworks should never leave the channel as you name is the trademark of the brand keep working BTW more videos about the 2 idiots series would be nice
Amazon sells PC standoffs ... great to have the boards/cards/pumps/reservoirs at what ever level you want or need ... can make running tubing look much better & a lot easier ... they also sell blank sheets of metal, and thread cutters for adding your on screws where you need them, etc.
I have an Antec full tower that started with a PIII and went all the way up to a first gen core CPU. It now holds a P5K with a Q6850X quad core, 4GB, dual ATI X1900's in crossfire. Win XP. It totally rocks. It is great to have great cases to put UGMs in.
Love how the build is coming up. With this black matte appearance and being a Skunk works build I will name it The NightHawk. I think is a fitting name and a homage to the first stealth plane that Skunkworks designed. And for the unsure people, Yes, the SR-71 or the AE-12 were low observability and very fast and high, but NOT stealth, simply untouchable by their speed and altitude.
I've started using 3/16" ACM panels for bulkheads. Easy to score and snap to size, easy to cut with power tools, and both sides have silver brushed aluminum skins, which can be painted.
It looks good! Crazy how the accent colors make a difference in what you see. I didn't even notice the OC on the pumps until you put the fittings in and then they popped out at me.
Such a beast of a rig, all those fans must put some really nice airflow/pressure in the case. Would love to see a new video with smoke to visualize the airflow
Hey Jay, Skunkworks looks awesome so far! I just remembered that you usually advocate for an adequate way to drain the loops. Where will you add the drains in the respective loops?
Hey Jay, I have this exact board and I may have a word of advice for ya (not that you need one, lol). Since you will be using your 4090 on this board, you won't be able to run it @ x16 speed because of the NVME that you have installed in M.2_1 slot. That slot shares bandwidth with PCIEX16(G5)_2 so when M.2_1 is populated your card will be limited to x8 speed. You can mitigate that by installing your NVME in slot M.2_2 or M.2_3.
Thank you guys for Techtober! Your hard work to bring us continuing content is appreciated. Better to do it in October, than the November and December months you've done. Phil, your editing is friggin on point as always. Jay, been watching you since the OG Skunkworks. Thank you for always keeping it real, and grounded (as much as you can).
I'm from the UK, 42 and also called Jay. I'm old enough to understand both inches, feet, meters and millimetres, and i feel permanently confused 😅. Love the vods, really looking forward to seeing the finished build. Thanks JTC team
this "rebirth" come perfectly ! Iam planning to build a New Pc with Watercooling for the first time and already decided to take the Lian Li V3000 Plus. Your Build gives me some inspiration on some decisions cause the cases are a bit similar ! Keep up the good work ! Greetings from Germany !
I would love to be able to just pick through Jays junk room .. Probably come out of there with a top tier build .. May look a little wierd and mismatched colors but would be the best PC 99 percent of us would ever have .. Jay really is living the dream good for him !
Jay. About that ROG Controller that comes with ROG Extreme board... I have one and it only allows controlling fan speed. For ARGB it works as a HUB not a controller as in you cannot set lighting for each connected argb device, only for all of them (unless I missed something in armoury crate. OpenRGB also do not recognize it as a controller. It works more or less like that EK 5-way ARGB splitter). So you might want to look for proper ARGB controller like Razer Chroma Addressable RGB Controller.
Have you thought about trying to do a dual loop using two of the ek's customizable pump/distro plate combination, using two different fluid colors and run one's loop through the other's distro plate section? That said I haven't seen a single picture yet of one of these with fluid in it as ek's pics are all dry shots.
We appreciate Techtober SO hard to help get us through these weird PC building times we are in. We love your hard work overall and on this revival. Long time viewer, love it all!
This build has kind of inspired me to try a water cooled system of my own. Do to the fact I don't have JayzTwoCents resources, I'm buying piece by piece, paycheck by paycheck.
Hey Jay! Actually you have 2 ARGB headers - 1 with a proprietary cable in the top right corner which provides 2 headers and the 1 in the bottom you've showed in the video. Cheers!
I think you should space the fan hub splitter off the floor of the case, just so they don't short out in the rare event you might get a leak and have water pooling in the bottom of the case. Nothing fancy. Rough and ready will do given it's well out of sight.
One suggestion/idea: maybe the "floating panel" for the pumps should have been the exact same dimensions as the MoBo on the left, and then have the panel and MoBo mirrored about the two cable grooves in the centre? I can't quite see if those cable holes are centred in the case in the first place, though...
And a quick hack to save a bit of money with the fans. If you can get the 120mm UpHere! ring lit fans, they match up almost perfectly with the BeQuiet! 140mm fans. And the Uphere! are considerably cheaper with the same look.
Jay the fams are mat black, why not just let 'em spin and use sand paper so the center can also get a mat finish. Easier than trying to find mat stickers
So Jay, I know you love water cooling, and I've grown to love it as well. But I wonder, what are your thoughts on optimizing a build for maximum radiator size? There's a reason I ask this, the product I'm interested in seeing more reviews of is the MO-RA3 radiator. Which is simply gigantic. How gigantic? You can get a fan bracket for it that fits FOUR Noctua NF-A20 200x200 mm fans, in a 2x2 grid. Meaning the radiator must be larger than 400x400mm. Now, obviously no PC case is going to fit something that massive. But that's why quick disconnect fittings exist, specifically the no-drip type that you can get from Koolance or Alphacool (and probably others). I have my CPU and GPU both connected to my water cooling loop by stub hoses that have this kind of quick disconnect on them, and they work great for when I need to pull the loop apart to service it. I can take one or both components out, clean the water blocks, reassemble them, put them back in the loop, and aside from a small loss of coolant (I keep some on hand to replace it), I don't need to do anything else to the loop to keep it in good shape! Similarly, you could easily connect this massive radiator to your PC by having a couple bulkhead fittings on the back of the PC case, with the quick connect fittings on the exterior of them and fittings for hose or tube on the inside to connect with the rest of the loop. I think that the point with such a massive radiator is that you're able to use bigger, slower fans, which make less noise, and still maintain the cooling needed for high-grade water cooled overclocking. So you get to choose BOTH "performance" and "low noise", but you sacrifice some on the "cost" front. A complete MO-RA3 radiator minus fans will run you around $400 dollars, at least for the NF-A20 compatible version. But if you want to cool a whole system (CPU+GPU) with only one radiator, and you want to keep that basic setup between multiple PC's, I can't think of a better solution than one of these massive radiators, because it's gonna take a very very long time before PC cooling needs advance to the point that we're needing to utilize the same proportion of the performance of this size of radiator as we would use in a more typical 360mm or 420mm radiator or two in a current-day system. Of course, it does bring up another question, slightly relevant for content creators and streamers and the like who might have one PC to "play the game" and one other PC to "render the stream and host chat bots and all that stuff". How many PC's could you run on such a massive radiator? The answer is obviously more than one even with 4090's and modern CPU's thrown into the mix, but I don't know "how many more" than 1 it is.
I have my Alphacool Apex pump for a year now they are super quiet and reliable. I run normal coolant though not pastel (EK cryofuel indigo violet). This pump fixed all the problems of the VPP655 so maybe your confusing it with that?
@@phantomflame0658 vpp655 was just rebranded d5 true problems were with apex and vpp755 pumps until the new vpp755 v.3 came that is why Alphacool ditched older apex and vpp755 pumps and focus now on vpp755 v.3
Jay, the fanhub in the top, mount it in the top, not at the top of the backplate. That way the fan wires will come down along the backplate, and not sticking out as they do now.
I like the X-Flow rads for this purpose, so you can go from CPU to rad in the back and come out in front to get to the reservoir. Makes it a lot cleaner.
Do a double 45 degree offset fitting on the CPU out into the radiator, in the same geometry style as the rest of the Satin Titanium fittings. That would look sick, because it would be uniform.
A cool idea for a build, royalty free: a full stealth build. Sacrifice all extras such as RGB, m.2 for storage for less cable requirements. Wifi, Bluetooth mobo. Solid cooling, and proper safe overclock AMD
The Alphacool pump/res combo with inlet from the top wil create a lot of bubbles (the so called waterfall effect of Alphacool). So you have to slow down the pump speed a lot. I just took the long pipe thingy that came with the pump and cut it in half and switched that with the top inlet. No more bubbles for me.
Using Aura lighting on my Asus MB cost me 3 to 5% CPU usage when set to any kind of dynamic color pattern. I settled on a single solid color to stop it from draining CPU power.
Thank you Phil for translating into metrics, it is much appreciated
YES!!! I love so much when they do that!!! I have never say it. But love that about the channel
As a viewer from Europe I appreciate the translation of the 1m sq feet to sq meters.
Came here to say something similar 😆
I absolutely love Phil's humor!
As a non-American viewer, same
Ja
Που εισαι μαγκα
wegoup is probably We Go Up as the spacers make things go up 😂
Obviously, but I like "We Goop," better.
Well spotted 🤓
came to say this lol
good catch, that means they are actually missing some spacers between the lettres of their logo!
THat's what I was thinking.
nothing can beat a classic for those we start watching you channel 10 + years ago we love old school, and skunkworks should never leave the channel as you name is the trademark of the brand keep working BTW more videos about the 2 idiots series would be nice
Amazon sells PC standoffs ... great to have the boards/cards/pumps/reservoirs at what ever level you want or need ... can make running tubing look much better & a lot easier ... they also sell blank sheets of metal, and thread cutters for adding your on screws where you need them, etc.
I have an Antec full tower that started with a PIII and went all the way up to a first gen core CPU. It now holds a P5K with a Q6850X quad core, 4GB, dual ATI X1900's in crossfire. Win XP. It totally rocks. It is great to have great cases to put UGMs in.
Yay! More Skunkworks content!
Should switch the 120 exhaust fan with another distroplate. Then you are running 4 x120 exhaust and 3 x120 intake ?!!?
This is my first time seeing a SkunWorks build and it's awesome! Hey Phil and Nic! 👋
Love how the build is coming up. With this black matte appearance and being a Skunk works build I will name it The NightHawk. I think is a fitting name and a homage to the first stealth plane that Skunkworks designed. And for the unsure people, Yes, the SR-71 or the AE-12 were low observability and very fast and high, but NOT stealth, simply untouchable by their speed and altitude.
I've started using 3/16" ACM panels for bulkheads. Easy to score and snap to size, easy to cut with power tools, and both sides have silver brushed aluminum skins, which can be painted.
It looks good! Crazy how the accent colors make a difference in what you see. I didn't even notice the OC on the pumps until you put the fittings in and then they popped out at me.
Such a beast of a rig, all those fans must put some really nice airflow/pressure in the case. Would love to see a new video with smoke to visualize the airflow
Hey Jay, Skunkworks looks awesome so far!
I just remembered that you usually advocate for an adequate way to drain the loops. Where will you add the drains in the respective loops?
I love the effort and DIY you put into it, just to make the Pump holder. I can't wait to see how that will look like.
Love the Skunkworks build. Since you have started this build it is inspiring me to plan for my next rig.
Skunkworks is looking good
Hey Jay, I have this exact board and I may have a word of advice for ya (not that you need one, lol). Since you will be using your 4090 on this board, you won't be able to run it @ x16 speed because of the NVME that you have installed in M.2_1 slot. That slot shares bandwidth with PCIEX16(G5)_2 so when M.2_1 is populated your card will be limited to x8 speed. You can mitigate that by installing your NVME in slot M.2_2 or M.2_3.
Thank you guys for Techtober! Your hard work to bring us continuing content is appreciated. Better to do it in October, than the November and December months you've done. Phil, your editing is friggin on point as always. Jay, been watching you since the OG Skunkworks. Thank you for always keeping it real, and grounded (as much as you can).
Skunkworks is going to be absolutely incredible when finished. the floating platform already looks and functions beautifully.
i absolutely love this style of build. Always been a big fan of the stealth fighter jet type schemes
The Skunkwork is gonna be Breathtaking. I love this work in progress 🙂
I'm from the UK, 42 and also called Jay. I'm old enough to understand both inches, feet, meters and millimetres, and i feel permanently confused 😅. Love the vods, really looking forward to seeing the finished build. Thanks JTC team
this "rebirth" come perfectly ! Iam planning to build a New Pc with Watercooling for the first time and already decided to take the Lian Li V3000 Plus.
Your Build gives me some inspiration on some decisions cause the cases are a bit similar !
Keep up the good work ! Greetings from Germany !
Have you ever tried an Aquacomputer setup? all the stuff your doing there was done years ago and in a much better way
I would love to be able to just pick through Jays junk room .. Probably come out of there with a top tier build .. May look a little wierd and mismatched colors but would be the best PC 99 percent of us would ever have .. Jay really is living the dream good for him !
2:50 --> The Rock and his eyebrows meme 🤣🤣🤣
Out of everyone one the UTube, you make me want to fully water cool my system. I’m not doing it. But you make me want to.
excited to see the completed "re-build" of skunkworks!
great stuff Jay!
The tri-tone is coming together sooooooo good.
It makes me so happy to see skunkworks back in action.
It’s so cool to see SkunkWorks back again! Can’t wait to see it done.
Looking good! Glad to see Skunkworks make it's way back!
Thanks for the update! I love how it looks so far!
Very happy to see more Pc build videos lately! Skunkworks is going to look good as ever!
We need a "Skunkworks - Build Project Type Ongoing CasssseeeeeeLabs SMA8 Thing" t-shirt!
Can't remember if you bought an ABP but you had to get the special bit for the Maximus board to get the clearance ?
I really enjoy the vlogs! It's nice to see the thought process!
Nebula is probably my favorite of your builds, but Skunkworks is a classic and this new version is gonna be awesome too.
Looks great I want to finish my 1000D but always seems to be changing it
Jay. About that ROG Controller that comes with ROG Extreme board... I have one and it only allows controlling fan speed. For ARGB it works as a HUB not a controller as in you cannot set lighting for each connected argb device, only for all of them (unless I missed something in armoury crate. OpenRGB also do not recognize it as a controller. It works more or less like that EK 5-way ARGB splitter). So you might want to look for proper ARGB controller like Razer Chroma Addressable RGB Controller.
Seems like the perfect build for a EK Manifold / distro block of some kind
Have you thought about trying to do a dual loop using two of the ek's customizable pump/distro plate combination, using two different fluid colors and run one's loop through the other's distro plate section? That said I haven't seen a single picture yet of one of these with fluid in it as ek's pics are all dry shots.
Yes!! Part 3 is here!!!
12:24 phil is the only reason i stay for the whole video. XD
May be one of my favorite looking builds so far, and by a long shot. Can't wait for the next vid!
We appreciate Techtober SO hard to help get us through these weird PC building times we are in. We love your hard work overall and on this revival. Long time viewer, love it all!
Jay, that setup is pretty badass-looking, man! 😮 Wish I had one like that! 😊
I can’t wait for skunkworks to get finished it looks so awesome already!!! Also really hoping for RTFM this week been missing the show lately
I hope Caselabs will start manufacturing soon. I'm glad jay is using that old case again!
Jay try gun metal stickers on the fan to match the case. I think it would break up all the black and tie the case into the fans.
This build has kind of inspired me to try a water cooled system of my own. Do to the fact I don't have JayzTwoCents resources, I'm buying piece by piece, paycheck by paycheck.
Hey Jay!
Actually you have 2 ARGB headers - 1 with a proprietary cable in the top right corner which provides 2 headers and the 1 in the bottom you've showed in the video.
Cheers!
I think you should space the fan hub splitter off the floor of the case, just so they don't short out in the rare event you might get a leak and have water pooling in the bottom of the case. Nothing fancy. Rough and ready will do given it's well out of sight.
One suggestion/idea: maybe the "floating panel" for the pumps should have been the exact same dimensions as the MoBo on the left, and then have the panel and MoBo mirrored about the two cable grooves in the centre? I can't quite see if those cable holes are centred in the case in the first place, though...
I'm pumped for the skunkworks revival. Its looking great, jay! Keep it up!
And a quick hack to save a bit of money with the fans. If you can get the 120mm UpHere! ring lit fans, they match up almost perfectly with the BeQuiet! 140mm fans. And the Uphere! are considerably cheaper with the same look.
Phil, sir, that backup tone on Nick WAS GOLD
Jay the fams are mat black, why not just let 'em spin and use sand paper so the center can also get a mat finish. Easier than trying to find mat stickers
So Jay, I know you love water cooling, and I've grown to love it as well.
But I wonder, what are your thoughts on optimizing a build for maximum radiator size?
There's a reason I ask this, the product I'm interested in seeing more reviews of is the MO-RA3 radiator. Which is simply gigantic.
How gigantic? You can get a fan bracket for it that fits FOUR Noctua NF-A20 200x200 mm fans, in a 2x2 grid. Meaning the radiator must be larger than 400x400mm.
Now, obviously no PC case is going to fit something that massive. But that's why quick disconnect fittings exist, specifically the no-drip type that you can get from Koolance or Alphacool (and probably others). I have my CPU and GPU both connected to my water cooling loop by stub hoses that have this kind of quick disconnect on them, and they work great for when I need to pull the loop apart to service it. I can take one or both components out, clean the water blocks, reassemble them, put them back in the loop, and aside from a small loss of coolant (I keep some on hand to replace it), I don't need to do anything else to the loop to keep it in good shape!
Similarly, you could easily connect this massive radiator to your PC by having a couple bulkhead fittings on the back of the PC case, with the quick connect fittings on the exterior of them and fittings for hose or tube on the inside to connect with the rest of the loop.
I think that the point with such a massive radiator is that you're able to use bigger, slower fans, which make less noise, and still maintain the cooling needed for high-grade water cooled overclocking.
So you get to choose BOTH "performance" and "low noise", but you sacrifice some on the "cost" front. A complete MO-RA3 radiator minus fans will run you around $400 dollars, at least for the NF-A20 compatible version.
But if you want to cool a whole system (CPU+GPU) with only one radiator, and you want to keep that basic setup between multiple PC's, I can't think of a better solution than one of these massive radiators, because it's gonna take a very very long time before PC cooling needs advance to the point that we're needing to utilize the same proportion of the performance of this size of radiator as we would use in a more typical 360mm or 420mm radiator or two in a current-day system.
Of course, it does bring up another question, slightly relevant for content creators and streamers and the like who might have one PC to "play the game" and one other PC to "render the stream and host chat bots and all that stuff".
How many PC's could you run on such a massive radiator? The answer is obviously more than one even with 4090's and modern CPU's thrown into the mix, but I don't know "how many more" than 1 it is.
This is shaping to be a very interesting built
Don't know if anyone has already said this, but looks like you're walking us through a digital storm setup. And I'm here for it!
The wiring etc. reminds me of what the inside of a pinball machine back glass looks like ;)
Are you keeping the apex pumps ?
You will have fun time with these chinesium d5 pumps, you had plan to replace them with genuine d5 pumps.
I have my Alphacool Apex pump for a year now they are super quiet and reliable. I run normal coolant though not pastel (EK cryofuel indigo violet). This pump fixed all the problems of the VPP655 so maybe your confusing it with that?
@@phantomflame0658 vpp655 was just rebranded d5 true problems were with apex and vpp755 pumps until the new vpp755 v.3 came that is why Alphacool ditched older apex and vpp755 pumps and focus now on vpp755 v.3
Silver cap stickers for the centre of the fans would tie in nicely and reflect any RGB
Jay, the fanhub in the top, mount it in the top, not at the top of the backplate. That way the fan wires will come down along the backplate, and not sticking out as they do now.
I like the build v/log videos. Please, do them more. Unless the algorithm hates it, which sadly happens way too much.
Are the bottom fans going to be pull on that radiator, or are they going to try to push air through the PSU's side?
Just had a though, you only need to mark one side because it will only go in one way. With the front to the front. You can't flip top and bottom
Thanks team
Jay, you definitely need aquasuite to manage your fans, another world trust me
I can't wait to get into custom loop cooling. Just waiting for my budget to allow me. I love these videos.
I like the X-Flow rads for this purpose, so you can go from CPU to rad in the back and come out in front to get to the reservoir. Makes it a lot cleaner.
It's looking like this build might get finished!
make some alluminum tape circles for the fans to tie in the motherboard colors
Do a double 45 degree offset fitting on the CPU out into the radiator, in the same geometry style as the rest of the Satin Titanium fittings. That would look sick, because it would be uniform.
I almost forgot about Red Mist. That was a beast in its own right.
That GSkill ram looks awesome in there - the heatsink kind of matches the motherboard heatsinks.
And the fans also have this angular design
JayzTwoCents PC DIY videos makes me want to do Room DIY Stuffs
Long live Skunkworks!
A cool idea for a build, royalty free: a full stealth build. Sacrifice all extras such as RGB, m.2 for storage for less cable requirements. Wifi, Bluetooth mobo. Solid cooling, and proper safe overclock AMD
When water cooling i always go to EK. Blocks fittings pumps all EK.
I think holo/chrome stickers on the fans would really mesh with the color scheme. It would look cool when they catch light from the rgb too.
Right on...... right on.....!
11:22 // I think the fan hub has 7 fan plugs for common cases with 3 front, 3 top and 1 rear fan mby
The Alphacool pump/res combo with inlet from the top wil create a lot of bubbles (the so called waterfall effect of Alphacool). So you have to slow down the pump speed a lot. I just took the long pipe thingy that came with the pump and cut it in half and switched that with the top inlet. No more bubbles for me.
I think it's more of an aesthetic thing. Bet it sounds like an aquarium though 😆
@@phantomflame0658 tbf to me it didn’t sound that bad. I mean you could hear it. But my GPU is way louder ;)
@@Sancto-NL I love how I spent like 1k on watercooling just for the coil whine on my graphics card to be the loudest part anyway
@@phantomflame0658 yeah exactly haha. Oh wel. I choose loud and cool over quiet and hot anyways.
It's Alive Dr. Jayenkenstein.. IT'S ALIVE.. 😁😁
Thats the kind of PC I always wanted to build! Alas, budget constraints exist :(
Looking forward to the next Update!
What is the mother board and block on the new skunk works.... also what ram are you going to use
Using Aura lighting on my Asus MB cost me 3 to 5% CPU usage when set to any kind of dynamic color pattern. I settled on a single solid color to stop it from draining CPU power.
Time to make your own distro plate😊
i love this build so far
Already looks amazing!
you could still use a screw on the back if you 3D print a cover for the wires with their own spacer as part of it.
8:49 - hahahahahaha. Nice work, Phil.
Allready looks awesome 👍
You should try the razer chroma argb hub it has 6 different zones I use it all the time
What is the Argb controller he is pointing at 13:23 please?
Why you don't use 6 pint conector directly to psu it well look way more cleaner the having sata connector all over the place just a suggestion
YAY Nic!