I have been a painter finisher and restoration contractor since the early 80s I started doing it professionally in 1980. I was helping my Dad and Grandad back in 1972 when I was 10 years old. I've worked with coatings all of my life. Try some Oslong sandpaper it is superior to any kind of sandpaper I've ever used it so much better it's at least twice as good as anything else on the market. It's got a special latex backing. It feels like those faux leather tags on a pair of Levi's jeans. You can crease the sandpaper and roll it back and forth and the grit will not come off. You can wash it reuse it is wet or dry. If you ever use it what you will never use another brand of sandpaper it's just that. I get mine from John at Marine Now on eBay. I get the assorted pack with grits starting from 80 grit all the way up to 2,000.everyone that I have told about this sandpaper always tells me thank you when they try it it's just that good. Also I'm sure you probably used it, but my favorite sealer is Zinsser Seal Coat it's a very thin wax free shellac, does not raise the grain and dries very quickly. It is a great sealer cause it doesn't raise the grain and it's compatible with any kind of finish water-based solvent base and even hot solvent 2 part mix Epoxy. Try a 2-1/2" Purdy Syntox Brush. These are Superfine Synthetic Ox Hair Brushes and will lay down a finish that looks like glass. I like the 2-1/2" size because they will easily fit them in a small container like a quart can without hitting the sides or the ring around the top of a metal can plus they give you a little more brush control that going to pick up pockets better in the neck pockets and all these little places. I notice you were using a 3 expression the bristles looks fairly coarse to me. Purdy Syntox Brushes are the perfect thing for what you're doing. By the way I love your videos I like working on guitars myself. I just thought this might help you if you hadn't heard of these products yet. God Bless You 🙏 😇 and Your Family!! Jimmy in NC....
@@HighlineGuitars by order some stuff from Murray MacLeoda luthier in Scotland he's been building in working on guitar for more than 50 years. He orders sandpaper in bulk from North Carolina in Raleigh which is about 30 miles from where I am in Coats NC. After I told him about the Oslong sandpaper he ordered some, liked it so well that he canceled his bulk order from Raleigh and orders nothing but Oslong now. It really is that good. So are the Purdy Syntox Brushes. You can find the brushes at Lowe's Home improvement, Home Depot, Sherwin-Williams, etc. They're readily available everywhere. Plus they have all kinds of sizes and they are compatible with any type of finish. God Bless 🙏😇. Jimmy in NC....
After watching your video, I decided to check out the Crystalac website. Really like the fact that it is water based and easy to use. Just started a new Telecaster build and will be using there products on it.
@@pigjubby1 Greetings, very happy with the end results. Was able to do it indoors and with a brush. Living in Florida with have a slight problem with humidity about 360 days a year.
Chris, Thank you for your videos! I really appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge. Would you maybe consider making a video on your thoughts on marketing and selling your services/instruments?
great video Chris! thanks for the info, I was looking for a way to get a DIY friendly (but durable) finish without spraying/using 2k, would that type of finishing method produce a strong finish resistent to scratches/fingernail test if done properly?
Chris, I’m concerned about using this technique on a flame maple top and sanding through the veneer. Is there anyway around that? Thanks and keep the videos coming. Mark
@@HighlineGuitars An interesting alternative, Chris, thanks. I want to use water based materials, though, for a brown colored look with honey colored accents. Its still too cold here in Maine to work in a ventilated area. Any ideas? Thanks, Mark
Thanks again, Chris. Can I use a stain with Danish Oil? I know Watco has colored danish oil but I don’t know if they will let me get the honey finish with brown accents on the flames of the maple top. Any suggestion? Mark
@@markaddison8930 Think about using artist oil colors thinned with mineral spirits as a stain. You'll have to do some testing on scrap, but stains made this way play well with danish oil.
When you fret the fretboard after having finish already applied, how do you not take off finish when you sand the frets flush with the sides of the guitar? I know some people like to sand the frets at 45° angle until they touch the wood to give it a “worn in” feel. But I’m guessing you just use a totally different fretting approach when the finish is already on? Thanks
Chris, I have watched quite a few of your videos on finishing techniques. I have a question, are there times when you put on the color first , then a sealer , topcoat as opposed to a sealer first, then color, the top coats? What is the deciding factors that determine that? I do understand the importance of not wiping on anything over a water soluble color until it is sealed so to avoid smearing it. Really enjoying your channel!
@@TheNCGardener It might. To eliminate the "sticky" feel, you can lightly sand the neck with 1,500 grit sand paper or rub it out with a pad of synthetic steel wool.
You don't have to use the sanding sealer if you aren't going to stain the guitar. However, I still recommend using sanding sealer because it is easier to sand level and you won't have to apply as many top coats which is important with this technique because the top coats contain a flattening agent that can obscure the underlying wood grain when too many coats are applied.
You are a star - many people don't like to share their techniques, which is sad. You make great guitars and great videos. Thank you.
I have been a painter finisher and restoration contractor since the early 80s I started doing it professionally in 1980. I was helping my Dad and Grandad back in 1972 when I was 10 years old. I've worked with coatings all of my life. Try some Oslong sandpaper it is superior to any kind of sandpaper I've ever used it so much better it's at least twice as good as anything else on the market. It's got a special latex backing. It feels like those faux leather tags on a pair of Levi's jeans. You can crease the sandpaper and roll it back and forth and the grit will not come off. You can wash it reuse it is wet or dry. If you ever use it what you will never use another brand of sandpaper it's just that. I get mine from John at Marine Now on eBay. I get the assorted pack with grits starting from 80 grit all the way up to 2,000.everyone that I have told about this sandpaper always tells me thank you when they try it it's just that good. Also I'm sure you probably used it, but my favorite sealer is Zinsser Seal Coat it's a very thin wax free shellac, does not raise the grain and dries very quickly. It is a great sealer cause it doesn't raise the grain and it's compatible with any kind of finish water-based solvent base and even hot solvent 2 part mix Epoxy. Try a 2-1/2" Purdy Syntox Brush. These are Superfine Synthetic Ox Hair Brushes and will lay down a finish that looks like glass. I like the 2-1/2" size because they will easily fit them in a small container like a quart can without hitting the sides or the ring around the top of a metal can plus they give you a little more brush control that going to pick up pockets better in the neck pockets and all these little places. I notice you were using a 3 expression the bristles looks fairly coarse to me. Purdy Syntox Brushes are the perfect thing for what you're doing. By the way I love your videos I like working on guitars myself. I just thought this might help you if you hadn't heard of these products yet.
God Bless You 🙏 😇 and Your Family!!
Jimmy in NC....
Its' available on amazon.
Great tips! I'll check out that Oslong sandpaper for sure.
@@HighlineGuitars by order some stuff from Murray MacLeoda luthier in Scotland he's been building in working on guitar for more than 50 years. He orders sandpaper in bulk from North Carolina in Raleigh which is about 30 miles from where I am in Coats NC. After I told him about the Oslong sandpaper he ordered some, liked it so well that he canceled his bulk order from Raleigh and orders nothing but Oslong now. It really is that good. So are the Purdy Syntox Brushes. You can find the brushes at Lowe's Home improvement, Home Depot, Sherwin-Williams, etc. They're readily available everywhere. Plus they have all kinds of sizes and they are compatible with any type of finish. God Bless 🙏😇.
Jimmy in NC....
Awesome job! Looks amazing!
Many "thank yous" for this information Chris :)
I surely appreciate the time you take to explain all these finishes and the techniques used to apply them. Excellent workmanship.
Great video as always! I'll be using this technique on a build I'm doing now (great timing)
@@pigjubby1 Came out great! I am a huge fan of the Crystalac Matte in particular, absolutely beautiful if you like Matte finishes.
@@SteveSmithIncorp Thank you for the update. I'm in a bit of a bind on a refinish I am doing to my first guitar from 1982. So many choices.
After watching your video, I decided to check out the Crystalac website. Really like the fact that it is water based and easy to use. Just started a new Telecaster build and will be using there products on it.
Their products do seem to work well for a variety of the more familuar Tele finishes.
Larry, how did it turn out?
@@pigjubby1 Greetings, very happy with the end results. Was able to do it indoors and with a brush. Living in Florida with have a slight problem with humidity about 360 days a year.
Chris,
Thank you for your videos! I really appreciate your willingness to share your knowledge.
Would you maybe consider making a video on your thoughts on marketing and selling your services/instruments?
You are awesome
Hi Chris, As always an interesting and useful video. Can Colortone stains be used with this technique. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Yes, absolutely
hey chris, I've been having some good results mixing artist watercolors with crystalac, have you or anyone else tried using straight pigment?
great video Chris! thanks for the info, I was looking for a way to get a DIY friendly (but durable) finish without spraying/using 2k, would that type of finishing method produce a strong finish resistent to scratches/fingernail test if done properly?
UV cured polyester.
Chris, I’m concerned about using this technique on a flame maple top and sanding through the veneer. Is there anyway around that? Thanks and keep the videos coming. Mark
I wouldn't use this technique on veneer. I would just rub in some danish oil and after it's dry, top it with your choice of a clear coat.
@@HighlineGuitars An interesting alternative, Chris, thanks. I want to use water based materials, though, for a brown colored look with honey colored accents. Its still too cold here in Maine to work in a ventilated area. Any ideas? Thanks, Mark
@@markaddison8930 Wait until it gets warmer. DO NOT use water-based products on veneer.
Thanks again, Chris. Can I use a stain with Danish Oil? I know Watco has colored danish oil but I don’t know if they will let me get the honey finish with brown accents on the flames of the maple top. Any suggestion? Mark
@@markaddison8930 Think about using artist oil colors thinned with mineral spirits as a stain. You'll have to do some testing on scrap, but stains made this way play well with danish oil.
Can you apply this to technique to a dye stained guitar or is the best left to spray finishing?
Happy Holidays! How would you recommend prepping a kit guitar that was CNC'd and has a veneer top?
I have never made a kit guitar nor have I ever worked with veneer tops so I can’t offer any advice. Maybe someone else will chime in.
When you fret the fretboard after having finish already applied, how do you not take off finish when you sand the frets flush with the sides of the guitar? I know some people like to sand the frets at 45° angle until they touch the wood to give it a “worn in” feel.
But I’m guessing you just use a totally different fretting approach when the finish is already on? Thanks
I just reapply a little finish to the edges of the fretboard.
Really nice! You seem to prefer the water based products to more traditional lacquers. Why is that?
Toxicity.
Chris, I have watched quite a few of your videos on finishing techniques. I have a question, are there times when you put on the color first , then a sealer , topcoat as opposed to a sealer first, then color, the top coats? What is the deciding factors that determine that? I do understand the importance of not wiping on anything over a water soluble color until it is sealed so to avoid smearing it. Really enjoying your channel!
Sealer first. Always.
@@HighlineGuitars Chris, does this finish leave the neck where your hand will stick to it and not slide easily over it?
@@TheNCGardener It might. To eliminate the "sticky" feel, you can lightly sand the neck with 1,500 grit sand paper or rub it out with a pad of synthetic steel wool.
can you skip the sealer if not using a stain, or do you recommend a sanding sealer regardless?
You don't have to use the sanding sealer if you aren't going to stain the guitar. However, I still recommend using sanding sealer because it is easier to sand level and you won't have to apply as many top coats which is important with this technique because the top coats contain a flattening agent that can obscure the underlying wood grain when too many coats are applied.
What sanding discs do you recommend?
I use Klingspor disks.
What is the warranty period for your builds?
Jim Suber For my spec builds its 14 days which is I think the default that Reverb offers. Custom builds are a whole different matter.
Are you currently taking orders for custom builds ?
Always. If interested, contact me with the details at www.highlineguitars.com/contact_form.html