How to oil a vintage watch - Oil and grease lubrication - Part 3of3
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- Опубликовано: 29 май 2021
- Learn all there is about Watch lubrication, which Oil and grease to use. Fixodrop and epilame.
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Tutorial on watch repair by watchmaker Kalle Slaap from Chronoglide, Vintage Watch repair specialists near Amsterdam. Watchmaking documentary.
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After watching nearly 10 hours of videos over three days, I realized I hadn't subscribed. I did during this video.
So good advice kalle- I us only mobus oils BUT prefer using 9405 on pocket watch keyless area on all keyless lube points it prevents rust!
هل يستمر تأثير الزيت لفترة طويلة ..وماهو ضرر استعمال زيت خفيف مثل زيت مكائن الخياطة على الساعة ..
شكرا جزيلا لك على مشاركتنا خبرتك ومعلوماتك المهمة
Watched all 3 parts intently . Thanks so much for making the videos. Very interesting , you have a nice way about you. I will watch more . Cheers Sir. BB
Thanks for your great and enthusiastic work Kalle!
That is so generous, Thank you so much!
I am enjoying your content and (trying) learning so much, a big, big thank you. The more I absorb the more I know this is all I want to do. I am older, but what the heck.
Our oldest intern was 82, currently two of 75. There is hope!
As a machinist I was trained by an old guy that used the side of the nose trick on very tiny taps to tap holes in soft material. It’s funny that it was also used in watch making.
Wonderful information, thank you! For electron microscopes I was shown by an older service guy to wipe the oil from the side of my nose and use it to lubricate the O-rings to seal the vacuum system. Nice to hear that method was also used in vintage watches!
Good info, thanks from Mexico!
When a watchmaker dips the entire pallet fork in epilame. What effect does epilame have on the dry pallet fork pivots and inside the pallet fork jewels? Is epilame a help or hinderance there?
A quick question regarding epilame. You mention the importance of using it on the capstone, chaton, and pallet fork. Where else should (or must, or can) it be applied. I think it is important in making a cost benefit analysis of epilame for the serious hobbyist when considering its over all cost. Do you have any research data that reveals actual tested benefits of epilame as well? I appreciate your time and patience.
Will study in detail, thank you/Josef
Thanks for your support Josef!
Excellent documentary!👌❤️👍
A review on lubricants on now synthetic parts: silicon, nylon, other plastics would also be very intesting.🫣
THANKS
I'm really enjoying watching these videos. Many thanks for producing them! Your video on anti-shock devices helped answer a question I had last week. This week you may be helping answer another question, but additional clarification would be helpful to me. Recently I changed some old Nye oil I had been using for years (Like 20 years maybe? :-O) for Moebius 9010 and 9415 (I'll be ordering some 9020 and HP 1300 soon.). I'm finding that the 9010 seems to really fight me on moving from the oiler to the flat side of the cap jewel. It's borderline ridiculous. I'm wondering if by soaking the jewels, or otherwise treating, with epilame, would that help the oil to make the move to the jewel? Many thanks from SoCal, USA. Cheers.
Thanks for the tutorial and the background information! From the research I have done so far, epilam appears to be a suspension of Stearic acid (major component of animal fat, and certain vegetable oils like coconut oil) in a suitable solvent that leaves a hydrophobic coating on the part. I have also seen a recommendation somewhere that the pallet fork, escape wheel, etc. should be dipped in epilam, but then the tips of the pallet jewels and the tips of the escape wheel teeth should have it cleaned off. Any opinion on that approach? As for nose oil, it has application in videotape machine repair for lubricating screws that fit with really close tolerances.
Excellent statement Tim, controversial topic even under watchmakers all over the world. I think the jury is still out on this one. Cheers!
You previously stated that we should only use silicon grease on waterproof seals on the case of a watch.
Is there a scientific reason for this statement?
I've used silicon grease on high friction areas within the movement such as the keyless works and I've not had any apparent problem with doing this. The grease seems to be quite temperature stable and stays pretty much where it is placed.
Over time there seems to be no discolouration due to particulate capture from excess wear, so I guess that it is doing a fair job of lubrication.
I bought some FixoDrop from a major Canadian distributor and when it arrived I saw that it was already 1 month past it's expiry date? Should this make me angry as I lay in bed at night?
If I am not mistaking, I think in a watchmaking tutorial video, someone said that for the pallet jewels we should use 9415. You are saying that we should use 941.
But these are different; The first one is a grease, while the latter one is an oil.
What's your opinion?
Definitely the 941 oil type. Please refer to the “moebius oil chart” (Google) when in doubt.
if oil expires then wont it be bad in watch after that date ?
Hello, you mentioned the cap stone being treated with epilame. I've not heard or seen this before. Is that right? And do you treat the whole setting or just the cap stone? I also heard an epilame treatment will last several washes. Is this true?
It is Brian, we treat the setting (chaton) and capstone. I will last for several washes. nice to hear from you.
14:43 What is that word there? The “château”?
chaton
I don’t think you are right about the Moebius 941 being a variable viscosity lubricant. The property you are talking about is a thixotropic lubricant which liquefies under pressure. Moebius came up with the newer 9415 grease which is thixotropic. If I’m not mistaken, 941 has a standard viscosity, though one designed especially for the escapement.
So nice to hear from you. I think you are right, i was talking about 941 family, i should have mentioned the different types within the same range from Moebius. Thnx!.
So it begins.... Ha!
Is there a list of the recommended oils to get for someone just getting into servicing? Money is not an issue, just don’t want to buy everything and not use it and have it to bad.
If you Google on Moebius oil list, you’ll find the full range.
What does it really mean when a watchmaker says "made my best experiences with oil xyz"? Which watchmaker has serviced several copies of the same clockwork with different oil combinations and analysed the results over several years of use (with identical circumstances of using the watch of course)? Only with such a direct comparision you can really estimate differences, otherwise you can only tell that it somehow works well with the oil you used. But you don't know whether it may have worked even better with another oil.
Just my 2ct of course ;)
Well, with a lot of experimenting on donor movements and discussing with colleagues on best practice we have a good view on the do's and don'ts concerning lubrication.
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking Didn't meant you ;). You don't insist on the 'best' oil or brand.
But watching discussions in various internet forums there are so much clockmakers who do so. And when you dig deeper the main argument mainly is 'I have done it this way forever so it must be the best way'. Very few of them really made experiments and tests over a longer period to compare the results.
Hoi Kalle. Waar kun je als consument in Nederland de verschillende Moebius oliën en vetten kopen? Heb wat op internet rondgezocht, maar het valt nogal tegen wat ik kan vinden.
Ik kan Bijou Moderne en Alma Findings van harte aanraden in Nederland. Succes! Kalle
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking thanks! Zal eens gaan kijken.
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking helaas, beide firma's zijn groothandels die niet aan particulieren leveren. Weer terug bij af ☹️
Is epilame really as critical as it's suggested? I mean, what did they do before epilame was invented? Surely it's a fairly recent thing?
Andrew, it is fairly recent in the scope of watchmaking, but a great improvement.
Are Cellphones critical? We used to live perfectly fine 25 years ago. LOL ;o)
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking cellphones are just proof that pocket watches are more popular than ever.
NEVER, EVER, Dip the entire pallet fork in Epilame, EVER. Rolex did tests when the entire pallet fork was dipped and the Epilame on the horns of the pallet fork engaging with the impulse stone on the balance actually caused microscopic sparks, literally sparks, and wore the impulse pin away and created a lot of dust. This is not unfounded and the video Rolex made showing the side effects of dipping the whole pallet fork is available somewhere. I personally use a very fine 1ml syringe with very little Epilame in and use that to apply it to just the stones on the pallet fork. The Epilame is able to evaporate in the syringe so always keep the cap on, and only have a little inside at all times. Hopefully this was helpful.
Excellent information Alex, Thnx!
Do you happen to have a reference for the video? I've done some searches but came up blank (my google fu is normally pretty good but it failed me this time). I never expected to go down the epilame rabbit hole, but here I am. My thoughts:
*I'm using stearic acid 1% w/v for epilame. The cost is about 1/100000 compared to fixodrop.
*That's basically what epilame was, and I suspect it still is. Fixodrop may have other elements in it to aid even coverage.
*Stearic acid is an organic fatty acid, so the fact that it might react when struck isn't to too far fetched. It does seem strange that it would cause the kind of damage Rolex is talking about though - if that was the case I'd expect more people would be having trouble and it would be known about.
*Having a cheap source of epilame means that you can replace it regularly, which may give better results than re-using the expensive stuff for far too long. (Concentration is the key, and old solutions with the solvent evaporated out may be too high in concentration)
*The most even, thinnest, and durable method of applying epilame may be vapour deposition. I may investigate this at some point, but the practice seems to have died out, maybe because of the convenience of modern solutions like Fixodrop.
*Epilame seems to be even more contentious than which oils to use. Some watchmakers are saying it is unnecessary with modern synthetic oils, while some manufacturers seem to be treating almost the entire movement. I'm keeping an open mind on the subject.
I've heard this before. Yet I have yet to see anyone site the actual study or article / paper in which this was tested and explained. As far as I am concerned this is an internet rumor until I am shown the published results of these tests which seemingly were done in a corner somewhere and the results are only for a special few. Please, site your source. "Available somewhere" isn't going to cut it for me and it shouldn't for you either.
I listened that oil , in a watch, will dry fast, so after some months the watch is working dry, and it will work most part of its time dry. Is this true??
No it isn't, modern synthetic oil will lubricate for many years Juaquim.
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking If it stays in place...When you open watches that have been used for some time (1 year for example), can you see oil in it? Ima just curious, becasue I never see oil in any watch.
It is there in tiny tiny amounts.
End up falling a sleep with this guy, can he go any slower? UMMMMMM, UMMMMMMMM, TIT, TIT Ummm, Ummmm, then he forgets what he just said!
Uuummmmm thnx, 🤣🤣🤣🤣