Hello, I agree with you and of course we do not absolutely need p125 because break grease is very expensive and it is recommended for the chronograph only. Regarding 8217 (glissalube20) it is a generic brake grease for barrel springs, I read somewhere that 8212 is optimized for aluminum barrels and 8213 for brass barrels. And because I am French, I am sorry to hear that you received an expired product from France. I've never encountered this kind of problem, but to be honest, I'm not surprised. Since France has been under European obligation, things have gotten worse and worse. I hope this changes in the future! Have a nice day and happy watchmaking
You're not wrong about 9010 watchmakers used it for the pallets before 941 was developed, been doing the same for a bit over 2 years now keep going lad, good vid.
Thanks for showing the vials while talking about them. After watching a few videos about them the numbers all kind of blend together- haha… …also I have a Moebius table in front of me and in addition to 9415 they show 9010 as recommended for escapements, so you’re on strong ground there…
I was going to say that but it sounded absurd. My watchmaking instructor in trade school gave a vial of watch oil that lasted for twenty years. Thanks Mr Payne.
If I’m practicing which parts would use 8000 and would a mainspring also use molykote? Great video! I’m going to practice a service by using the two options you suggested
7:15 is Kluber P125 Braking Grease similar to Moebius 8217. 10:25 meant a less expensive version oil to Moebius HP1300\D5 although for those practicing and on a budget, D8000 would be fine. Moebius 8000: www.esslinger.com/moebius-8000-classic-watch-oil-1-ml-bottle-individual/?gclid=CjwKCAjwwsmLBhACEiwANq-tXCi_uFNl8PIxWj7t1ZqAS_Ejj7BRnotCsF8uw-oP0mpmOvySIo_SgxoC4WkQAvD_BwE KT22: grease for keyless works, etc. and will last a long time www.esslinger.com/kt22-microlubricant-watch-grease-and-moisture-sealer/
@@geoffreylimongan1748 If the goal is getting your feet wet and trying out the process of a movement service on cheaper practice movements then yes. Is it optimal? No. HP1300 has a much higher viscosity than 9010 and is for slower moving, low friction train parts and I've yet to find a cheaper mineral based alternative. However after properly cleaning all parts, even a thin film of low viscosity 8000 is still better than gritty dried old lubricant or none at all. I'd say if you do a few cheap movements and like the process and want to progress further down the watchmaking rabbit hole, invest in both 9010 and HP1300 as well as the few others I mentioned. Thanks.
I love molykote, but the second you can afford 9501, get 9501 lol. I LOVE 9501. I truly believe it is the best synthetic grease besides JISMAA. Love JISMAA too but sometimes I look at it, and it looks so dry. I still use molykote on keyless works. But for the love of god guys, don’t use molykote on the cannon pinion. Sure it works but JISMAA is much better. I also recommend you guys pick up flomblin if you’re working on a lot of screw down cases. Best silicone grease you can buy!
Hi, great video, very useful! I think the 941 oil is used for high frequencies watches (above 28800), while 9415 - for watches, below 28800. I've heard you was stating opposite.
I can't tell you how much infomration like this helps all of us just getting into this. Thank you so much. I am very new at doing the work. I've seen alot of referances to special lubricants like breaking grease for the barrel, the spring and pallet forks and no information on how to lubricate them when you don't have them. I currently have some KT-22, Moebius 8000, 9010, and HP 1300. I assume you should still lube the spring, the barrel wall on an automatic, and the pallet jewel surface. Could you suggest what the best chioces would be for those and any others that use special lubricants given what I have? After all people have been servicing watches since long before those were around. Thank you.
Hello David and thank you. Most if not all automatics require barrel wall braking grease and Moebius 8217 is what I recommend and is less expensive than Kluber P125. Unfortunately when it comes to braking grease there are no less expensive alternatives. Per Moebius description it is considered their universal soft braking grease "recommended for the lubrication of all types of barrels". As far as the spring itself it's manufacturer specific if it gets oiled as some are coated. For the ones that do call for lube Moebius 8200 or 8300 is commonly used. Regarding the pallet jewel surface for many years 8000 and 9010 was used however 941 and 9415 was specifically developed for this application with 9415 for over about 28000 bps and 941 for lower bps. Epilame, which I did not mention is used as a surface treatment to reduce runoff spread and keep the lubricant in place however 941 and 9415 has inherent properties that aid in this by itself though I see most watchmakers still treating the pallet in Epilame regardless.
Enjoyed your video. Long story short. I just started the watch hobby with pocket watches I purchased from Ebay. I bought alot of things I needed. However, my problem is the lubricants and grease. I cant afford the Moebius oils and grease. This is a hobby not a living. I will never be able to use all this expensive stuff. I really need oils and grease for pocket watches. Can you suggest any for me as a beginner? Would appreciate it very much for any help you can give me. Thanks for your time.
Thank for watching and commenting. No need to worry about more expensive synthetics. Moebius and Novostar sell inexpensive mineral based oils of varring viscosities. Just stick the fundamentals which are: Faster moving train = lighter viscosity, Slower = thicker and metal to metal contact = grease and you should be fine. If you want to use synthetics NYE is USA based and makes more affordable synthetic clock oils as well.
Thanks for all the useful information! Where can I get a magnification visor or microscope for a reasonable price? My biggest problem is seeing the small parts of a watch. I'm working on pocket watches, no wristwatches.
Hello! I got a watch and wanted to clean it a bit. I used Isopropyl alcohol to clean it and then the movement started freezing. The seconds hand just stops. I reset the watch but after couple of minutes it stops again. Do you think the alcohol dissolved the oil in the moving parts of the watch and i should lubricate it? pls help!
Please could you tell me the difference between a watch serviced with cheaper oil and one that has been serviced with the more professional oils. Is it just service intervals, or accuracy or running time or ware to the parts, or ia it something else? Your video was very interesting Thank you.
Hello Keith. Prior to the development of synthetic watch oils service intervals we much sooner typically around two to three years. The switch to synthetics greatly extended service interval times because synthetics last longer. Rolex for example now recommends as long as ten years.
Yes. A medium to high pressure friction grease is used depending on the manufacturer spec. Moebius blue synthetic 9504 grease is the gold standard for watchmakers on the stem and keyless works however for a less expensive alternative for hobbyist you can use Molykote DX or KT22 grease.
Hello Amanda. Yes, I have heard that many watchmakers were getting away from Kluber and MolyKote due to contamination in cleaning solutions. It's not as much of an issue for home hobbyist.
It was a guy in Wisconsin. I bought the two small jars a year ago but don't currently see his listing. He possibly may be experiencing supply issues. Here is the seller I purchased Molykote DX from which is a lesser expensive substitute for Moebius 9504 www.ebay.com/itm/281005359578?epid=1860375558&hash=item416d3981da:g:j7YAAOxyzGlQ6TT3
I came here looking for a solution to a very loud "ticking" sound. And I believe that comes from the escapement pallet jewel tic-tacking. Should I get the 941 or the 9010 which I can also use for other parts. Also, can I apply the 9010 to a slow moving part?
941 for under 28800 bps and 9415 for 28800 and higher. 9010 was used in the past prior to 941 and 9415 however due to the high speed nature of the escape and pallet fork it creates a flinging effect which those two are better at staying put over 9010. If I were going to use 9010 I'd pre treat with 8981 fix-o-drop epilame. Also investing in hp1300 is good because it has more uses than just the slower train pivots.
Hi thank you for all the information you're providing. Great video! I was wondering if you could provide links to the products you mentioned. Especially the novastar and more budget friendly ones. Thank you
For beginners trying to get their feet wet, I'd start with a bottle of inexpensive Moebius 8000 which is a mineral based less expensive version of 9010 synthetic. www.esslinger.com/moebius-8000-classic-watch-oil-1-ml-bottle-individual/?gclid=CjwKCAjwwsmLBhACEiwANq-tXCi_uFNl8PIxWj7t1ZqAS_Ejj7BRnotCsF8uw-oP0mpmOvySIo_SgxoC4WkQAvD_BwE Then get some KT22 grease for keyless works, etc. The jar costs $4.89 and will last a long time www.esslinger.com/kt22-microlubricant-watch-grease-and-moisture-sealer/ If your interest in watchmaking continues, you can begin to invest in the more expensive synthetic oils I showed in the video. Thanks.
Braking grease. The clear small flat one being very expensive Kluber P125 a fellow watchmaker gave me and the small brown bottle I bought on eBay is Moebius 8217 which is a Braking grease for brass barrel walls. Moebius also sells 8213 for aluminum walls. Kluber P125 brand seems to be the most popular amongst professional watchmakers and spec'd out by manufactures recommended oil charts.
Sure. Molykote www.ebay.com/itm/281005359578?epid=1860375558&hash=item416d3981da%3Ag%3Aj7YAAOxyzGlQ6TT3&LH_BIN=1 The eBay seller I bought the small bottles of Moebius braking grease from is out.
Oils and greases last a long time as long as they're sealed and the "light ends" aren't allowed to escape. I don't know what the suppliers are saying the shelf-life is, but I'd be pretty sure the actual is a lot longer. Manufacturers have to put a life cycle on but they will shorten to eliminate as much risk as possible for the million to one failure.
very helpful, as a beginner this is great info, taken my shopping basket from expensive to affordable
Hello, I agree with you and of course we do not absolutely need p125 because break grease is very expensive and it is recommended for the chronograph only.
Regarding 8217 (glissalube20) it is a generic brake grease for barrel springs, I read somewhere that 8212 is optimized for aluminum barrels and 8213 for brass barrels.
And because I am French, I am sorry to hear that you received an expired product from France. I've never encountered this kind of problem, but to be honest, I'm not surprised. Since France has been under European obligation, things have gotten worse and worse. I hope this changes in the future!
Have a nice day and happy watchmaking
You're not wrong about 9010 watchmakers used it for the pallets before 941 was developed, been doing the same for a bit over 2 years now keep going lad, good vid.
Thanks Dave. I appreciate that.
Thank you for such a friendly and thoughtful video. I am starting and is daunting knowledge wise and cost wise. Liked and subscribed!
Thanks for showing the vials while talking about them. After watching a few videos about them the numbers all kind of blend together- haha…
…also I have a Moebius table in front of me and in addition to 9415 they show 9010 as recommended for escapements, so you’re on strong ground there…
Thanks Rehajm.
I bought all the oils from a watchmaker locally he simply put a small amount in a multi cell container and I haven’t even come close to using it up..
I was going to say that but it sounded absurd. My watchmaking instructor in trade school gave a vial of watch oil that lasted for twenty years. Thanks Mr Payne.
Nice informative no BS video.Thankyou.
If I’m practicing which parts would use 8000 and would a mainspring also use molykote? Great video! I’m going to practice a service by using the two options you suggested
Took a while, but subbed! Clear and informative, thank you.
7:15 is Kluber P125 Braking Grease similar to Moebius 8217.
10:25 meant a less expensive version oil to Moebius HP1300\D5 although for those practicing and on a budget, D8000 would be fine.
Moebius 8000: www.esslinger.com/moebius-8000-classic-watch-oil-1-ml-bottle-individual/?gclid=CjwKCAjwwsmLBhACEiwANq-tXCi_uFNl8PIxWj7t1ZqAS_Ejj7BRnotCsF8uw-oP0mpmOvySIo_SgxoC4WkQAvD_BwE
KT22: grease for keyless works, etc. and will last a long time www.esslinger.com/kt22-microlubricant-watch-grease-and-moisture-sealer/
Hi, are you sure D8000 is fine to replace HP1300? Because they have significant viscosity difference. Thanks for the video!
@@geoffreylimongan1748 If the goal is getting your feet wet and trying out the process of a movement service on cheaper practice movements then yes. Is it optimal? No. HP1300 has a much higher viscosity than 9010 and is for slower moving, low friction train parts and I've yet to find a cheaper mineral based alternative. However after properly cleaning all parts, even a thin film of low viscosity 8000 is still better than gritty dried old lubricant or none at all. I'd say if you do a few cheap movements and like the process and want to progress further down the watchmaking rabbit hole, invest in both 9010 and HP1300 as well as the few others I mentioned. Thanks.
@@24hourgmtchannel64 thank you so much for the insights
I love molykote, but the second you can afford 9501, get 9501 lol. I LOVE 9501. I truly believe it is the best synthetic grease besides JISMAA. Love JISMAA too but sometimes I look at it, and it looks so dry. I still use molykote on keyless works. But for the love of god guys, don’t use molykote on the cannon pinion. Sure it works but JISMAA is much better. I also recommend you guys pick up flomblin if you’re working on a lot of screw down cases. Best silicone grease you can buy!
Hi, great video, very useful! I think the 941 oil is used for high frequencies watches (above 28800), while 9415 - for watches, below 28800. I've heard you was stating opposite.
Hello Valentech. Moebius 9415 can be used down to 18000 all the way up to 36000 without causing any timming related issues. Thanks.
I was looking for this video . Thanks!
According to companies like Cousins who sell Novostar Type B, it is full synthetic.
So, can you not use like knife pivot lubricants in watches?
Thanks helpful
I can't tell you how much infomration like this helps all of us just getting into this. Thank you so much.
I am very new at doing the work. I've seen alot of referances to special lubricants like breaking grease for the barrel, the spring and pallet forks and no information on how to lubricate them when you don't have them. I currently have some KT-22, Moebius 8000, 9010, and HP 1300. I assume you should still lube the spring, the barrel wall on an automatic, and the pallet jewel surface. Could you suggest what the best chioces would be for those and any others that use special lubricants given what I have? After all people have been servicing watches since long before those were around. Thank you.
Hello David and thank you. Most if not all automatics require barrel wall braking grease and Moebius 8217 is what I recommend and is less expensive than Kluber P125. Unfortunately when it comes to braking grease there are no less expensive alternatives. Per Moebius description it is considered their universal soft braking grease "recommended for the lubrication of all types of barrels". As far as the spring itself it's manufacturer specific if it gets oiled as some are coated. For the ones that do call for lube Moebius 8200 or 8300 is commonly used. Regarding the pallet jewel surface for many years 8000 and 9010 was used however 941 and 9415 was specifically developed for this application with 9415 for over about 28000 bps and 941 for lower bps. Epilame, which I did not mention is used as a surface treatment to reduce runoff spread and keep the lubricant in place however 941 and 9415 has inherent properties that aid in this by itself though I see most watchmakers still treating the pallet in Epilame regardless.
@@24hourgmtchannel64 Thank you for your reply. That's exactly what I wanted to know.
super video! A common sense approach.
Thanks Danny.
Just found this, wonderfully done buddy, subbed and thanks for sharing
Thanks Ralfy.
Enjoyed your video. Long story short. I just started the watch hobby with pocket watches I purchased from Ebay. I bought alot of things I needed. However, my problem is the lubricants and grease. I cant afford the Moebius oils and grease. This is a hobby not a living. I will never be able to use all this expensive stuff. I really need oils and grease for pocket watches. Can you suggest any for me as a beginner? Would appreciate it very much for any help you can give me. Thanks for your time.
Thank for watching and commenting. No need to worry about more expensive synthetics. Moebius and Novostar sell inexpensive mineral based oils of varring viscosities. Just stick the fundamentals which are: Faster moving train = lighter viscosity, Slower = thicker and metal to metal contact = grease and you should be fine. If you want to use synthetics NYE is USA based and makes more affordable synthetic clock oils as well.
Thanks for all the useful information! Where can I get a magnification visor or microscope for a reasonable price? My biggest problem is seeing the small parts of a watch. I'm working on pocket watches, no wristwatches.
I'd start with Esslinger. They have good prices.
@@24hourgmtchannel64 Thank you for your response.
Thanks
Thank you
Hello! I got a watch and wanted to clean it a bit. I used Isopropyl alcohol to clean it and then the movement started freezing. The seconds hand just stops. I reset the watch but after couple of minutes it stops again. Do you think the alcohol dissolved the oil in the moving parts of the watch and i should lubricate it? pls help!
Please could you tell me the difference between a watch serviced with cheaper oil and one that has been serviced with the more professional oils. Is it just service intervals, or accuracy or running time or ware to the parts, or ia it something else? Your video was very interesting Thank you.
Hello Keith. Prior to the development of synthetic watch oils service intervals we much sooner typically around two to three years. The switch to synthetics greatly extended service interval times because synthetics last longer. Rolex for example now recommends as long as ten years.
Thank you, that's really interesting and puts all is perspective. Keep up the good work.
Should a new stem be greased? I need to replace a couple in a couple of fairly new watches.
Yes. A medium to high pressure friction grease is used depending on the manufacturer spec. Moebius blue synthetic 9504 grease is the gold standard for watchmakers on the stem and keyless works however for a less expensive alternative for hobbyist you can use Molykote DX or KT22 grease.
Were do you buy all the oils and grease.
Jules Borel & Co, Esslinger, Otto Frei.
Is the MOLYKOTE DX for a winding crown good to use?
Yes, It's even in the older Rolex service literature.
P125 barking grease is used less and less as it is a mess to cleanup and contaminates cleaning fluid😊
Hello Amanda. Yes, I have heard that many watchmakers were getting away from Kluber and MolyKote due to contamination in cleaning solutions. It's not as much of an issue for home hobbyist.
What's that user on the Bay that has the portioned out lubs? I'd like to get some of the 8217.
It was a guy in Wisconsin. I bought the two small jars a year ago but don't currently see his listing. He possibly may be experiencing supply issues.
Here is the seller I purchased Molykote DX from which is a lesser expensive substitute for Moebius 9504 www.ebay.com/itm/281005359578?epid=1860375558&hash=item416d3981da:g:j7YAAOxyzGlQ6TT3
How long before one needs to grease / oil a movement again?
I came here looking for a solution to a very loud "ticking" sound. And I believe that comes from the escapement pallet jewel tic-tacking. Should I get the 941 or the 9010 which I can also use for other parts. Also, can I apply the 9010 to a slow moving part?
941 for under 28800 bps and 9415 for 28800 and higher. 9010 was used in the past prior to 941 and 9415 however due to the high speed nature of the escape and pallet fork it creates a flinging effect which those two are better at staying put over 9010. If I were going to use 9010 I'd pre treat with 8981 fix-o-drop epilame. Also investing in hp1300 is good because it has more uses than just the slower train pivots.
Seen a blue grease for the keyless works, what is that?
Keyless and motion works - Molykote, Moebius 9501 and 9504.
Subscribed.
Hi thank you for all the information you're providing. Great video! I was wondering if you could provide links to the products you mentioned. Especially the novastar and more budget friendly ones. Thank you
For beginners trying to get their feet wet, I'd start with a bottle of inexpensive Moebius 8000 which is a mineral based less expensive version of 9010 synthetic. www.esslinger.com/moebius-8000-classic-watch-oil-1-ml-bottle-individual/?gclid=CjwKCAjwwsmLBhACEiwANq-tXCi_uFNl8PIxWj7t1ZqAS_Ejj7BRnotCsF8uw-oP0mpmOvySIo_SgxoC4WkQAvD_BwE
Then get some KT22 grease for keyless works, etc. The jar costs $4.89 and will last a long time www.esslinger.com/kt22-microlubricant-watch-grease-and-moisture-sealer/
If your interest in watchmaking continues, you can begin to invest in the more expensive synthetic oils I showed in the video. Thanks.
Thank you very much
So what was in the little tiny tub ? He kept picking it up and never saying what was in there
Braking grease. The clear small flat one being very expensive Kluber P125 a fellow watchmaker gave me and the small brown bottle I bought on eBay is Moebius 8217 which is a Braking grease for brass barrel walls. Moebius also sells 8213 for aluminum walls. Kluber P125 brand seems to be the most popular amongst professional watchmakers and spec'd out by manufactures recommended oil charts.
Hi, can you give a vendor name on molykote 4:01?
And this 4:38 can you give this seller as well.
Thanks in advance
Regards
Sure. Molykote www.ebay.com/itm/281005359578?epid=1860375558&hash=item416d3981da%3Ag%3Aj7YAAOxyzGlQ6TT3&LH_BIN=1
The eBay seller I bought the small bottles of Moebius braking grease from is out.
my brain hurts
Oils and greases last a long time as long as they're sealed and the "light ends" aren't allowed to escape. I don't know what the suppliers are saying the shelf-life is, but I'd be pretty sure the actual is a lot longer. Manufacturers have to put a life cycle on but they will shorten to eliminate as much risk as possible for the million to one failure.
are mobeuis oil worth $3 fake ?
why not just submerged whole movement in a silicone oil ?
Are you trolling