How to clean watch parts - Part 3of3 - Automatic cleaning
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- Опубликовано: 25 сен 2021
- How to clean watch parts, a tutorial for watchmakers (hobby watchmakers)
Which to products to buy and how to use them as a professional watchmaker.
Trust me, there will be some surprises!
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Look through the eyes of a watchmaker and share the passion of Kalle!
Tutorial on watch repair by watchmaker Kalle Slaap from Chronoglide, Vintage Watch repair specialists near Amsterdam. Watchmaking documentary.
How to become a watchmaker. Where do i learn to become a watchmaker / Horloger.
@ChronoglideWatchmaking
Used products for low budget watch cleaning:
* Wasbenzine, benzine, lighter fluid, refined petrol
* Isopropyl alcohol IPA 99.9%
* Jar with lid
* Sable hair Brush
* Pegwood
* Pithwood
* L&R Cleaning and Rinsing
* Greiner Cleaning and Rinsing
Machines:
*Greiner Vibrograf ACS 900
* Elma RM 80
Best watchmaking channel
That is so kind Romeo!
The accent makes it better.
Greetings from the Napa Valley. I'm a new hobbyist and I must say your videos are superb and I watch every one of them. I have graduated to a monocular with camera and can take pictures for reasssembly with my small brain for now. Bought bergeon screw drivers and keep them sharp. Working on balance wheel issues, inka block service and part names. What a great challenge i'm having with parts flying becoming a rodeco friend. I actually invented a way to prevent inka block three prong springs from flying. You might laugh at it but it works. Once again thanks for your genuine profesional help very much appreciated.
Thanks for the feedback.
OMG the crystal trick for springs is awesome, I was trying to solve this problem today. Genius
Now I have bought my first cleaning machine. Blue Elma Super-Elite. almost NOS. I just need the fluid now. I love this hobby!!! Thank you so much for sharing, Kalle!!!
It feels weirdly nice that I can now watch this video instead of part 2 because I snagged an Elma Record.
17:10 worth the whole video! Let me collect some glasses and keep them inside my baskets to protect small delicate parts for when I get my cleaning machine. I use some dental picks to remove most of the crude grudge before starting the cleaning process, and agree with you that s pure rinse must be used only in special cases, as it is very important to see what’s grinding under the hood to make troubleshooting easier and preventive maintenance possible on parts that may be worn out or going through excessive wear and tear from such problems. You’re not wrong, they are expensive and one of the mid to later part of your career to buy! We all start in a tight budget and is a good exercise to clean the movements by hand to get even more familiar with them, besides the fact that one may damage a part or two during the process and such experience will stick with you enriching your sense for what’s fragile, and what’s EXTRA fragile!
Great video as always! Thank you!
Thank You So much, Kalle, for the time and effort you put into the Chronoglide channel. Just a few words here on my own experiences. I have an old L&R Master and initially I was using Naphtha -- Distilled Water -- IPA and the results were good, but inconsistent. I finally got some L&R Extra Fine which is the recommended solution for the old style machines and I have to say the difference is remarkable. The parts come out clean and sparkling bright each time so far(about 10 movements). I was taught many years ago by my father-in-law, while on a visit to the USA from Scotland, the art of french polishing . He called one of the ingredients needed "Methylated Spirits" and we spent many days searching the home centers and paint stores for it, but it was never found, so he decided to use IPA instead. Just recently found out quite by accident that what he called Methylated Spirits is called Denatured Alcohol here in the States and is readily available. So, the question to you is does IPA differ from the bottle of alcohol we would buy for use as a antiseptic.
Thanks Kalle. I've an old L&R MasterMatic and have had to fish out springs many times from the fluids. Really like the tip of using a small crystal to keep the springs from finding their way through the basket's mesh. Not used Epilame as yet, mainly because the price of Epilame fluid and the bottle is truly insane.
It is really insane expensive! I fully agree ;o)
Elma first rinse is de-ionised water, while the Elma final rinse is just IPA (isopropyl alchohol) and I believe Elma say 99.5% IPA is an OK final rinse in countries where the Elma product is harder to get (eg Thailand). I don't think there is any problem with using IPA as the final rinse, as long as you do not leave the parts with shellac in there for more than 10 minutes (room temperature). IPA may also remove some of the more stubborn dried greases that might have been missed by the cleaning solution.
Under no circumstances substitute ethyl alcohol for the IPA, as ethyl alcohol is a lot more aggressive solvent for shellac. Wood workers have learned not to use IPA for preparing shellac varnish, because it is too slow to dissolve the shellac and also dries too slowly. This is despite the fact that ethyl alcohol is always 5% water, and water is not ideal for shellac as it can make it cloudy at concentrations over 5%.
For your "quick rinse" cleaning I'd recommend you do not skip the first rinse. The idea behind the first rinse is to reduce contaminating the final rinse with cleaning solution, so for this reason I was a bit surprised to see you skipping the first rinse. That's the idea behind three step systems always having two rinses. Skipping the first clean is OK for a part that is already clean of course, since the heavy oil contaminants that you are trying to keep out of the second clean don't exist on the part that has already been worked on.
ETA: and sorry for sounding a bit preachy. While I'm still learning this stuff and you are the professional with decades of experience, my brain doesn't know how to be diplomatic LOL.
Such great tips on cleaning, I bought a load. Of tools from this programmes
Another one very interesting video, nice learning about automatic cleaning machine ! So I will buy some lottery tickets and if I will be a winner somewhere, I’ll surely will buy one ! So for the moment my ultrasonic machine doing a absolutely great job ! Again thank you to share those essential informative video !!
I see you use L&R #3 for rinsing. But, which L&R solution (#111 or #566) do you use for cleaning and why? Thanks for making and sharing another great video!!
Hello Kalle, thank you for the tips for the use of cleaning machines I've planned to buy one soon. Sharing your experience is really helpful and valuable for me and many of the rookie watchmakers.... I really love your logic way of thinking about watch desassembly and service, I will apply it without restriction. The old glass tip will be applied too I'm fed up to search in jars for the tiny springs... I was not present for the premiere 'cause someone brings me my first two rolex for service, god help me to don't do a mess, but I'm very exited about it
I'm sure you'll do great C-L! ;o)
would love to see a side by side comparison of the same movement epilame treated movement versus not treated
Thought I got lucky recently when an Elma Singer machine came in the auction, the price went up to 600 euro... :D Nice machines you got there, I will stick to manual cleaning :)
And why not? It might take a bit more time, but it is the end result what counts!
When cleanig turns into an obecession...
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking agree, I don't do many watches per year so this will work fine :)
You show on your video proffesional cleaners what about the chinesse small and cheepest cleaners are they good to use? How you determine if a cleaner is suitable to clean watch parts?
Hi Kalle! Just starting at looking at older Chronoglides , very very well done 👍, I specially liked the Hammer 🔨-time👌. A nice future Chronoglide would be an ETA 7750 or Tissot variant with higher working time(approximately 60 hours or more). You & your team are #1 👌❤️👍, content is superb.
7750 great idea Johnny, thank you so much for your support!
Good morning,
Passionate about watchmaking for some time, I do watch maintenance.
I wanted to ask a question can we clean all the parts (platinum, bridges, cogs, anchor, balance wheel, escape wheel,....) in an ultrasonic machine.
Thank you.
PS: your RUclips channel is great.
There are some videos whose subtitles in French are not available but it does not matter 😉👍
Hello Kalle, thanks for the informative, helpful and exceptionally well done videos you produce. If I may for a soon to be hobbyist of watchmaking, regarding the cleaner solution, what is the recommendation to for choosing and using either the Ammoniated watch cleaning solution or the Extra Fine Watch cleaning solution. Pros? Cons? Thank you for any advice you can provide.
Where in the EU (NL) can I buy the L&R solutions from please!!
First I want to say I love your videos and as a new watchmaker hobbyist I was wondering if you would consider making a video discussing endshakes sideshakes covering the barrel jewelsettings and balance? What is correct what is incorrect. I have struggled with this for a very long time don't know what correct adjustments should be for a watch to run properly. When the barrel doesn't have enough or too much endshake etc. How to adjust etc.
Hi Giovanni, there is information about endshake in de video "Jewel replacement in watchmaking"on this channel and in "Mainspring repair". if you require more info, please let me know during the livestream on tuesdays at 20:30 Amsterdam time. Cya! Kalle
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking I did not see anything in the 2 mainspring videos you have uploaded part 1 and 2 . I guess I'm looking for some examples of wrong endshakes correct endshakes etc focusing on the barrel , balance . I watched the jewel videos it was informative but again I guess I'm looking to see examples possible to compare .
Obrigado professor pelo orientações precisas e profissionais. Parabéns pelo profissionalismo no conteúdo do vídeo e pela qualidades das imagens.Brasil - MG.
THANKS
I have a question, im a starter hobby watch maker and want to buy a cleaning maschine…. I saw there are many old one in good condition but cant find a website or a place where I can buy them im living in Germany at the moment would be happy if you could help me Regards Elia
Hello. I watch all of your videos. Related to cleanning , is it save to put a balance spring into a cleaning mashin ? I have an elma cleanning mashin with 4 jars and a drier.
I wonder if denatured alcohol would be comparable to IPA/99.9% rubbing alcohol .
Might be but I'm not 100% sure.
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking Did some search . Denatured alcohol is ethanol which you could drink like booze lol but it most commonly has a bit of methanol added to make it unfit for human consumption to avoid beverage tax then making it lower cost . This is why some refer to it as methylated spirits which I recall you saying may be used by some Swiss makers . I always make my own hand sanitizer out of it simply 75% denatured alcohol and 25% filtered water . I always have gallons of it so I'll try using it for rinse once I get all the equipment to give this skill a try . Love your efforts and what a beautiful shop you fellas have .
Hi Kalle, another great video. I have only just discovered your channel a few days ago, I've been binge watching your videos ever since. It confuses me that I have only just discovered your channel, because I've been watching watch channels and watch repair channels for many years, and other channels are regularly suggested to me. Is there something that you are not doing to promote your channel? Your number of subscribers and viewing figures seem very low for such fantastic content. Also, I'm surprised the number of views to number of likes ratio is not higher. Everyone who watches your videos, should be hitting the like button; it's the least we can do.
Best kept secret Andrew ;o), please spread the word!
@@ChronoglideWatchmaking I'll do my best 👍
Thank you so much for your support Andrew!
do you offer in person classes
Many thanks Kalle, great series on cleaning! I’m now subscribed;-) I’m using Elma cleaning products and an ultrasonic. I’m only a hobbies. I’m assuming Elma products are ok on balance and pallet forks? Cheers, B
👍🏽 pour votre vidéo
Question êtes vous vendeur de votre ancienne machine à nettoyer
Merci
do you use a microscope to disassemble a watch build it after cleaning
Hallo Kalle, bedankt voor je 3 afleveringen over het schoonmaken van de horloge onderdelen.
Echter 1 vraag: je hebt het over het niet gebruiken van IPA voor de "pallet fork / anker" en de "balance bridge / balans kloof" ivm oplossen/week maken van de schellak.
Ik persoonlijk gebruik wasbenzine om de onderdeeltjes schoon te maken en normaal gesproken spoel ik ze grondig (dompelen) met IPA.
In het geval van het anker en de balans kloof samenstelling; moet ik die dan gewoon spoelen met wasbenzine of raad je me iets anders aan?
Tevens: waar (wie) wordt nog steeds schellak gebruikt voor het vastzetten van de synthetische robijnen? Of is dit iets van/tot een bepaald tijdvak?
Is er ook een Nederlandstalig boekwerk beschikbaar (voor de hobbyist) aangaande onderhoud/reparatie etc. van horloges?
Ik heb geen moeite met Engels maar zoals je al zei in je video's is de (onderhoud-) cultuur ook verschillend en ik ben eerder in de niet engels-talige horloge cultuur geïnteresseerd als hobbyist.
Welke lijm kun je het beste gebruiken om losgelaten indices (of cijfers) van een wijzerplaat weer te bevestigen (2K)?
Bedankt en veel succes! Frank
Hi Frank, leuk om van je te horen. Schellak wordt nogsteeds gebruikt, maar lost niet heel erg snel op bij kamertemperatuur hoor. Snel spoelen (even heen en weer) gaat bijna altijd goed, gewoon goed kijken. Jendritzki heeft mooie Nederlandstalige boeken. Succes! Kalle
so hype everytime i hear the intro song 😂😂😂 whats the title?
I'm really not sure! I'll ask the intro producer ;o)