2001 Ford F150 - Universal Joint (U-Joint) Replacement
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- Get Free Shipping and save 25% on Amsoil: www.amsoil.com...
Find AMSOIL products for your vehicle: insaneoil.com/
Learn how to start your own AMSOIL dealership: joinamsoil.com...
Products used in this video include:
Amsoil Metal Protector
www.amsoil.com/...
Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector
www.amsoil.com/...
Amsoil Synthethic Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2
www.amsoil.com/...
Great tutorial. I’m off too the bathroom to drop a big deuce, and always I’ll be taking my Amsoil Metal Protector to loosen things up 🤓
FYI...Amsoil also makes Heavy Duty Metal Protector. www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-metal-protector-amhsc/?zo=10458
Just laughed way to hard lmao
This looks at lot like LPS 3 RUST Inhibitor which also has a wax-like film.
😂
Thank God for youtube it's saved me $1000's in mechanic bills over the years
RUclips University
Wow.
Great video. I guess I better run out and get some Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector.
Seriously, I enjoyed the presentation and will be working on my u-joints in my F150.
Thanks.
thanks for the video..just replaced my u joints on my 2002 f150.. first time and great results.
What was the lubricant you used again? ;)
Kevin McNutt wd-40 lol
W-D 40
Nice video ...im just going to spray some heavy duty Amsoil metal protector on my finger and hit the like button! 👍🤣
Great video. I always use sounds my truck makes to determine the problem this helped me a lot!
Glad it helped.
I'm super jealous of how "easy" those bearing caps came off for you. :) currently working on an 04 f350. She is being extremely unfriendly.
Removing the bearing caps was a job that I don't look forward to doing again...ever.
Me neither. I got really concerned about a couple of them. Figured I started with the worse joint. But jobs done. Your video helped.
@@MrDefyreality13 Glad the video helped...thanks for the comment.
I got the intermittent shopping cart squeak/chirp from a worn out rear u joint. Changed it while still on the mustang with a puller & c clamp. Good info here. 👍
Thanks for the comment. Glad you got it taken care of.
what's the name of that spray ?
Five years later and this comment is still funny
This is probably the best video I've seen on this in YT. I'm about to disconnect the driveshaft in my truck so I can drop the transmission and replace the torque convertor. The truck I'm working on is a 1988 F250 diesel pickup.
Thanks for your comments. Good luck with your project.
very helpful video but you sound like you're desperately trying to sell me on AMSOIL HEAVY DUTY METAL PROTECTOR. I'm off to buy 20
Yeah, you still sound like a commercial.
He reps amsoil in all of the videos. The videos are helpful but clear he's marketing their products.
mbrickner87 Yes, I do promote Amsoil products. I am an Independent Amsoil Dealer. They are great products. Beyond the quality of Amsoil products I hope people use my videos to learn about maintenance and repair of their vehicles.
Yes, your videos were very helpful and I watched several of them for either upcoming repairs or to learn about how things work. Thanks for posting them.
Excellent video on doing this project, and sure you are pushing Amsoil products...it is good stuff too, I'll not disagree about its quality. The tips given here will help with my 2000 Explorer U-Joints...good stuff - thanks
thankyou sir very helpfull. the was video was very specific you filmed and showed everything and explained how to do it this video was just like the job it was done right!
Thanks. This was a very helpful video. I have a E350 (retired Uhaul) that has a weird vibration and it has 240K miles on it, so it's u joints that are probably way overdue. I'll watch it a few more times before deciding to do it myself or take it to a shop.
William Steinhour what did u do? My excursion has 240k and has a vibration at the rear.. never noticed till i sat in the rear seat.. truck in good condition but dont wanna spend money if i dont have to..but dont want it to snap either
Excellent video on doing this project, and sure you are pushing Amsoil products...it is good stuff too, I'll not disagree about its quality. The tips given here will help with my 2000 Explorer U-Joints...good stuff - thanks
Glad the video helped.
Excellent video, very very good.
What kind of lubricant?
Awesome video. Thank you for talking clear and at a good speed to learn.
Great tips through out the video!
Thank you for the comment. I teach at the rate I learn...slow.
That was a great tutorial!
Great vidio. Have used Amsoil for 40 years. One suggestion, grease up the needle bearings prior to installing the caps. I have had them fall out when I turn the cap upside-down.
Great tip and thanks for the comment.
Greetings thx for the vid. I currently drive a 99 Ford F150 and with 328k on it and know. Unfortunately i didn't notice until it was to late and the friction from my seriously broken ujoint. It broke a small gear inside the driveshaft. Too bad for me, but on another note, i began to repair my old lady...lol thx for the vid. Thx for sharing
That was a great job and explanation 👍
Thank you for your comment. Good luck with your repair.
Doing my '97 right now. Once I pushed the cap on side all the way out, the other bearing cap is now trapped between the ears, and no amount of angling will clear it. The only way I can see to get it off is to press it through "backwards", or use a Dremel and cut the u-joint. Pressing it through backwards risks damaging the holes for the bearing caps.
I think the key here is NOT to run the ram in far enough where the cap pops out, but far enough to get a pair of pliers on it so it can be pulled, leaving the other bearing cap still partway in the ears. Then reverse the clamp and push that cap out. You sort of inferred this at one point, but didn't make it clear how much more trouble it becomes when do it wrong.
Thanks for the comment. Quite the tricky repair.
nothing mentioned about the specific torque requirements regarding the 12 point star bolts that fasten the yoke to the differential
Rear Driveshaft Flange Yoke-To-Rear Axle Pinion Flange Bolts are 70-95 ft-lb per the Chilton Manual
Pretty much just a c clamp to do the pressure,awsome video helped me alot,thnx
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
You make it look easy. Nice job.
This job was not very fun, but it was necessary to be done.
Another great vid, good job Jon. Thanks
Love your video, great detail was out into it.
Very well illustrated. Thanks.
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Your video is realy helpful thankyou very very much.
Glad it helped.
no orientation or balance doesn't mater any 4 holes can be aligned on reinstall but it wont hurt
This is a really excellent video. Thank you.
Thank you. I hope it helped with your repair.
well put together and educational video...
Very nice video congratulations 🙏🙏
Awesome video, I picked up some very educational traits from this. Thanks very much
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Awesome Video!
Great video.
Thanks for the comment. I hope the video helped with your repair.
Very good job thanks
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Amsoil is certainly good stuff. Never tried the penetrating lube spray but use the synthetic motor oil regularly.
I hope you are a preferred customer and getting your products at 25% off. www.amsoil.com/offers/pc/?zo=10458
tackling this project tomorrow do you recommend any type of u joint brand.i need it heavy duty,i drive my f150 like a race car and use it like a dump truck.thanks
spicer oem ujoints are the best,use the nongreasable
Spicer is #1. Don't get the cheap ones at Autozone.
Great video. Was hoping to catch a part number. Have the same truck just different year. Bought the wrong spicer i joints for the rear. Bought the 1130X’s and the caps are too small for the rear ds. Gonna try the 178X
I don't think I wrote the part number down. For this repair I just went to Oreilly Auto and had them pull the part.
While installing the snap rig, you forgot to mention Amsoil Metal Protector !!
I apologize...make sure you use plenty of Amosil Metal Protector and Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector. www.amsoil.com/p/mp-metal-protector-amp/?zo=10458
wonder what size is the flange yoke
Thanks. 👍
Nice.
As a safer way put wheel wedges (bricks will work as well) around your front tires both sides of the front tires. Then the rest of the video is correct.
The tips are much appreciated. Always good to keep things safe.
Thanks, helped me a lot. When I pulled the shaft from the transfer case I had a bit of fluid come out - do you know what it would be?
Transmission fluid most likely. If truck is not sitting evenly it will leak
Good job.. pay attention if there is a zert fitting..
Beautiful video. Thank you
I have the same squeaky sound but only in reverse, replaced the joint and sound went away. 2013 Ford f150.
Sounds like a successful repair.
The spring retainers for the cups have a right and a wrong way to install them. Because of the manufacturing process, one side has sharp edges and the other side has slightly radiused edges. You want the sharp edges showing when the retainers are in place. This gives maximum retention. Otherwise, a good guide for changing u-joints! The retainer shown at 18:42 is installed incorrectly; you can see the radiused edges.
I apologize for the error in the video. Thank you for catching it and identifying it for others to learn from...much appreciated.
They are also not fully seated, also the grease nipples should face the tail shaft to make it easier to grease while in the car.
Be safe and go check the snap rings and use the long nose pliers if you have to 👍
He put the grease fitting in backwards too you wont be able to get to it after its installed
Very good video. Really helpful
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Take a shot every time he says amsoil metal protector!
It must be some good stuff...the Amsoil Metal Protector that is.
@@InsaneOil oh shoot time to take a shot!
your wife is gonna be pissed when she sees that towel with the drive shaft on it. Use Caution!
Hey I know this video is old but can you explain how to remove the transmission return line? I cannot seem to figure out how to get them off and I need to replace the hose because it is leaking
great video. funny my last name is olson and my truck is exactly the same. I also am gonna buy stock in amsoil
You don't have to make marks and re align as it was. Drive shafts are balanced as an individual unit. Not while assembled on a truck
Agreed. I just like to put things back the way I removed them.
good instruction video. Well produced
Thank you for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Hey I'm not sure if you know but my truck makes the same rubbing sound that your truck makes at (00:53 - 00:55) if you know the source of this noise that would help me out a ton thanks again. -Aaron
Great job! Very helpful
Thank you for the comment. I hope it helped with your repair.
Looks like a pretty easy job
It wasn't overly difficult. Although a little frustrating removing all the rusty components.
Good Video
Thank you. Good luck with your repair.
This dude sounds like the dinosaur guy on Mrs. Doubtfire. Just playin’ But Great detailed video, thanks!
How do you know I'm not the dinosaur guy from Mrs. Doubtfire?
imagine that Amsoil grease as well. Amsoil hand cleaner? now if you pound and Amsoil beer at the end I'd be impressed. LOL
Just wait until the next video ;)
Wondering if I pulled this out would it make noise some more
What'd you find out?
Very good video. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Great video. That is exactly what I need for my 2002 ford f150 lariat. I have the same problem. However I am not a mechanic and I don't have the tools. So how much should I be expecting to pay for labor and how much for the parts? Please ..
According to repairpal.com it would cost between $281-$423 (Labor 36% and Parts 64%).
My truck shakes very minor before actually taking off, could this be my You joints going out?
Yes or the rear differential may need a rebuild
Would this be similar thing to do with a '03 Lincoln aviator..
Should be fairly similar.
Dry eyes? Try new clear eyes...buhler,buhler, buhler lol JK, great video, thanks!
Brought to you by Ams oil
Yes, I am an Independent Amsoil Dealer. After researching the many lubricant companies on the market, I decided to go with the one that outperformed all others. www.amsoil.com/?zo=10458
Lol who knew? Nothing wrong with that, I know how good they are a lil pricey for me tho.
@@myrongibson5181 Definitely on the upper end of the market cost, but I guess it goes back to the old saying "You get what you pay for"
Thanks for making this great video, helped me change the universal joints on my wife’s expedition 2000, was having a problem with the vehicle shaking around 35 or 40 sometimes 50 randomly it would vibrate and shake. U-joints didn’t seem bad but I switched them anyway because I was trying to run down this stupid shake vibration after changing them the vehicle still vibrates sometimes at 45 to 60 miles an hour randomly the whole truck will kind of shake any ideas on what else could be causing that? Thanks
Is the shake in the steering wheel or the entire vehicle?
Insane Oil , it’s the entire vehicle, not in the steering wheel.
@@rotfan77 Have you had your tires balanced recently? Is the alignment off?
Insane Oil, Alignment was done about two weeks ago and it’s great, but the tires are maybe eight months old very little driving diring Covid so they look almost like new but I guess it’s possible some weight might have fallen off?
Same problem
Just watched this. Those caps fell into the yokes. Mine have always gone in about 5mm then its press time.
Great video thank you so so so much
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Hey Jon do you have any suggestions on how I would press out the joint if I don't have a impact wrench?
Jon Olson ok thanks
Front axle u joints for 4x4 should be same process?
The process for most u-joints should be similar.
transfer case? is that a 4 wheel drive?
Steven Bennett yes it is
I have been told that a bad u joint can also make a ticking sound. I hear a slight ticking when I am driving along a wall that reflects the sound back and only when I am applying gas, not in idle (not even when reving the engine in neutral) or when coasting. I don't think it is in the engine. Could this be a u joint misbehaving?
2001 XLT 5.4L 2 valve 4X4 167,000 miles. Well maintained, original owner
It is possible. Is the U-Joint serviceable (i.e. does it have a grease zerk)? If it is, squirt some grease in and see if it stops permanently or temperately. If it permanently stops...great. If it temperately stops, then chances are the bearings are shot and the grease is just acting like a band-aid. If it is the original bearings at 167,000 miles, they could very well be at the end of their life. Also, make sure you don't have any garbage, like a plastic bag, wrapped around your axle or anything else that could be rubbing or loose near your tires.
This damn videos really good.
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
Thanks for the video👍
Thank you for the comment. I hope it helped with your repair.
Did anybody catch the name of the protector spray , I think it was Amsoil Metal Protector.
www.amsoil.com/p/mp-metal-protector-amp/?zo=10458
What's the torque specs on the bolts linking bracket to differential?
Rear Driveshaft Flange Yoke-To-Rear Axle Pinion Flange Bolts are 70-95 ft-lb per the Chilton Manual
Insane Oil thank you
Did my 04 last night.
Took 3 hours to break the u-joints free. Had to cut one out then bang the caps out. Uhhh my rear joint was froze up completely. Not fun. I had to break the clips
Did it end in a successful repair?
@@InsaneOil yes, after cutting the u-joint out of the bolt up coupling side. And heating and pounding.
@@chefkdowg Well, glad you got it back working...even if it was a pain.
What is the proper term for the piece that the front u joint connects to that goes inside the transmission? I have a vibration at different speeds and I’ve noticed that the (weight or balancer) for lack of better terms, seems to be slightly crooked. I’m suspecting this is what’s causing the vibration, but I’m having a hard time finding a replacement.
One end you have the Rear Differential Pinion Flange and on the other end you have the slip yoke on the transfer case.
I still heard a creeking when you started to drive. Is that the leaf springs needing lubrication? I ask because I have this sound in addition to the clunk. I'll be following your guidence to replace the u joints but want to also stop the creeking. Any advice?
In general, the creaking is the nature of older trucks. I suppose I could buy a can of MP and just coat everything underneath the truck. www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/mp-metal-protector/?zo=10458
Shout I marked off the part of driveshaft with white paint that connects ya to rearend but didn’t mark off the front part that goes to transfer case? Will it be super noticeable if it’s not put in the exact same way?
You should be alright.
Can anyone recommend a good penetrating oil? I mean this 20 min video on replacing a u-joint was much helpful. It would have been great if this guy would have recommended a good penetrating oil. I just don't see how this guy did all this without a good penetrating oil. I'm going to be sure to use some penetrating oil on all of my mating surfaces. Then use a good penetrating oil to protect the metal and for fitting the new u joint in place. Nothing like a good penetrating oil.
Glad you enjoyed the video. If you are interested, I heard a rumor that you can get your hands on some great penetrating oil at www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/other-products/cleaners-and-protectants/mp-metal-protector/?zo=10458
i heard amsoil metal protector penetrating oil was some decent stuff from this one douchebag u joint changer guy
Travis Griffis atf fuild and acetone
Also has blue lock tight on it.
While you have the shaft out might as well change both u joints.
It's an add for amzoil .
@@rexcolbert6740 I am an Independent Amsoil Dealer and I only use the best products on my repairs. www.amsoil.com/?zo=10458
What is the size of the u joint needed?
If you log in to your local auto parts dealer's website you can input your vehicle information and search Universal Joints. It will bring up the appropriate size of u-joints required for your application.
You'll find there are two sizes available for, 01 f150's. 1.063, and 1.188. Take a tape measure and measure across the bearing cups. 1 and 1/16th gives you the 1.063, 1 and 3/16ths gives you the 1.188. 1.188 gives you a MOOG 231 joint (happen to be holding the box in my hand from doing mine today).
Good video but you should have put the grease cap facing the driveshaft, it was easy to grease off the vehicle but once the driveshaft is in you will not be able to access that fill plug.
Agreed. During the repair I actually tried it both ways and neither provided good access.
Great video, thank you!
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with your repair.
@@InsaneOil
Repair went great! I-joint was definitely the problem and everything swapped out fine. Your video made it simple.
@@dinosaursam2969 Awesome. Good job.
damn good video
My truck is the same but I need this on my truck 2001 F150 triton makes a lot of squeaking noises . Can you please tell me why Does it make a lot of squeaking noise make a video on it please
I would probably conclude that your truck is making a lot of squeaky noises because it is old.
Shoulda greased that shaft before reassembling. Usually part "Ford KIT Drive Shaft Boot Repair Part Number 9L3Z4W602A"
Thanks for the comment. I appreciate the tip.
Agreed, what type of oil spray?
Only the best. www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-metal-protector-amhsc/?zo=10458
How many miles again now
I don't remember. I think somewhere around 125,000-140,000.
Can you still do this if you don’t have an impact?
It depends on how rusted/stuck your parts are.
What could happen if you don’t mark before remove it ?
In general, it is always best practice to return components in the same orientation that they were removed.
I did this step for step, took it on the highway and my transfer case exploded the driveshaft fell off, the new u joints were moog. I had a horrible vibration that sounded like a subwoofer at times when Iet off the pedal at speed and a constant hum. I was told it was the u joints, the one closets to the diff was really bad the front not so much. Replaced them both and now my truck is dead. The t case has huge cracks in it amd yhe oil was very dark amd it did not seem to be alotbod it. Please any help is much appreciated. I dont want to put in a new case and drivesaft and have this happen again 😔
My first thought is that the snap rings may have not been fully seated in the snap ring groove. If you are driving under load (ex. highway) and one of the rings pop off the U-Joint can come apart causing bad things to happen.
Is this your personal truck?
Yes it is.
Insane Oil I have a 2004 f150 triton - is it true that I have to replace the entire drive shaft and can’t simply replace the u-joints? I feel like it it is bc the upper control arms had the ball joints built into them, like everything is engineered to cost more for service on these years