80 Series Crank No Start, Don't Load the Parts Cannon

In this video, I will explain how to diagnose a failed fusible link. This problem left the owner stuck without his truck from several months while many people advised him incorrectly resulting in many unnecessary parts being installed.
Fusible Links and Fuses
Below of fusible links and relays critical for engine run, this is taken from 1991-1997 80 Series.
There are three fusible links near the positive post of the battery, all three are needed for the engine to start and run, they look just like wires as that is basically what they are, they are intentionality weak wiring that melts
with too much current, a blown one may melt in half insulation and all and smoke a lot, or the insulation may just look bubbly and melted on the surface but still look attached, or may look just fine from the outside but be
severed inside. The three come from Toyota as a set, all three are replaced at the same time, they are cheap, everyone should have a set in their glove box, and everyone should also carry an assortment of regular blade fuses also,
"Main" Fusible link, critical as it is upstream of the 15A EFI fuse under the hood, you can test this one from the
drivers seat by turning on the radio, headlights, ac/heat fan, defrost, stop light, tail lights and telephone, if any of
the above work then this fusible link is good,
"AM1" Fusible link, critical as it is upstream of the ignition switch and provides the power for to the starter
solenoid, you can check this one from the drivers seat by checking the horn/hazards, dome light, diff locks, rear
heat, turn signals, cigarette lighter, or wipers,
If you have the hazard & horn but none of the others check the big 50A
AM1 fuse in the under hood fuse box
(50A AM1 fuse not to be confused with the AM1 fusible link) Might not be a bad idea to stock a 50A fuse
incase the big AM1 fuse blows
"AM2" is probably the most engine centric, it provides power to the ignition switch, the injectors, the igniter,
the ignition coil, the distributor, and the alternator control system, if you get the red light on the volt meter
with “key on engine off” this fusible link is good,

[@AZRubicon1]

Good info, the only thing I would have added is a quick view under the hood so people can see it by the battery. KIM that it could be bad and look great. Mine was 2 years old and died in the AZ heat and it was OEM!

[@Ghostrider-71]

Excellent info. This is also helpful for the diesel LC (HDJ81) as well.

[@landcruisernut8654]

Ghost rider, thank you very much for the comment

[@eulalio02]

I had no idea there were three fusible links. I have only one connected directly to the battery as a backup. I'll need to look into those other fusible links. Thanks for the explanation makes a lot of sense.

[@landcruisernut8654]

All of the fusible links are together. When you look behind the battery you will see the three wires that make up each fusible link

[@davidp130]

I guessed fusible links based on the no cel but didn't know about the alt light. Good video 👍.

[@landcruisernut8654]

David, thank you for the comment.

[@CruisinMiles]

Great to know! Thank you for the very helpful info sir. Never had an issue with the am1 or 2. I’ve bought the truck with a bad main fusible link , so I’m familiar with that. But now I know.