It's been a while since I did this, but I seem to remember that sometimes depending on the exact nature of your washer, it may not go all the way down and that is okay. I think maybe it's possible that it sticks up an eighth or 3/16 of an inch.
Thank you so much for an incredible video!! You saved me a lot of time and money!! Since I was already knee deep in disassembly, I took the tub and the inner plastic liner all out and pressure washed it like new… 12 years of continuous use with a lot of children… hoping to get another 12 years out of it!! Surprised how easy the washer is to work on. Thanks again!! LORD Bless from Alabama!!
WOW! Great job! I just came on youtube to replace belt but decided to watch this tutorial.. Awesome job! I dont need to do bearings but decided to keep watching your clear concise instructions.. No UMMMs or AHHHHs.. Listening to your instructions was a pleasure, no confusion. Thanks! Hopefully you have done a tutorial on something I need when it breaks ;) .. Nice job!!
Great video. It helped me replace the bearings and shaft in my neighbor's Cabrio washer. He had run it for 2-3 years with a bad seal and cruddy bearings. It got to the point that the controller kept throwing an overheat error (which probably saved the stator windings), and then it finally seized up. Corrosion on the shaft splines was bad enough that I cracked the wooden board trying to free the tub. I ended up having to clear the valleys in the shaft splines with a small pick and lots of penetrating oil to finally get it free (same procedure freed that white plastic ring that fits over the splines). Couple months post-repair and it's still running like new. It was about $130 total for the OEM Whirlpool bearing kit and a knock off bearing tool.
I did this job today with help from your video...I repacked the bearings that came with my kit with a high quality wheel bearing grease .there was not enough grease on them in my opinion ..Hopefully this will help make the bearings last longer !
Thank you for this GREAT video. You covered everything. I watched some other videos (one that sounded like Luis Guzman was narrating lol) but this was the best. Didn’t leave anything out.
Getting the tub out with jack and 2x4 ended up breaking the top plastic part of the tub. Ever seen that before? Otherwise, your video helped a lot. No doubt my tub was extra stuck.
First I'd like to say thanks for your well planned video! I replaced my bearings and shaft a couple years ago. I lightly tightened the nut on the drum shaft, and it came loose in a couple days. So, I tightened the nut. Tight. Then the bearings failed a while later. My question is do you have a torque value for the nut? I'm an auto tech, we have torque values for just about every nut or bolt on an assembly we run across. If not, should the nut be tightened to snug and one UMPH plus blue loctite on the threads? Apparently there's zero preload on the bearings, just slightly tight. Thank you in advance... Z
Update... I followed your instructions, tightened snug only, used blue loktite on clean threads. It's working great! Quiet for once. The shaft I bought had an issue, the sleeve was not pressed as far as it needed. Took it to the shop I use to work for, they pressed it the 1/8-3/16" that was needed and I assembled. I also used a 4 ton bottle jack to remove the drum. Worked great but be ready to catch the jack. Great video, great instructions too. Thanks, bud!
Did this repair after hearing noises that sounded like the bearings eating themselves. Turned out to be 72 cents worth of change that must have been coming in and out of the filter. (Found AFTER bearing replacement). Now I have an uneven load error every time the washer runs. I replaced the rotor position sensor but it did not help. All four suspension springs are in place and not broken. I am out of guesses. It did not have this problem before I did the bearings. I am an experienced mechanic and I am sure the bearings / seal / retaining nut are all seated correctly BUT something I did must be causing the error.
Just a hunch, but double check the position sensor is put back in the right spot. It's easy to get it swapped, or in the wrong set of grooves. Good luck! 👍
Thanks for this helpful video. I plan on replacing my bearings and seal this week. I’m wondering if or where you used the anti-seize lubricant referenced in the initial parts summary?
I originally put some anti-seize on the lower 1/4" Allen bolt at the bottom of the axle. I have since determined that this is not necessary (and probably not a good idea) as that bolt has a tendency to come loose. Therefore, I now recommend not using anti-seize (at least on that bolt). Good luck with the bearing replacement!
My washer had this problem but I let it go to long and it leaked water and the rust built-up. I just can't believe how much dirt these new washers hold in them. I have crapped two of them with in days of use and these washers hold so much dirt like the inside of yours. My Lady freaked out on all the dirt in the washer.
I do suspect that, yes. That being said, it was about due for another bearing (based on the last time I replaced it) and I already bought the parts, so that's why I went ahead with it. In hindsight , it would have been interesting to just tighten that, then try it out again, but I didn't. Thanks.
@@PracticalMechanic How long did your bearings last? Were they OEM or this replacement kit you linked? Thank you for the helpful video. Mine is 12 years old and the OEM bearings sound awful.
Hi @GlennScott, the original bearing lasted 8 yrs, the second was not OEM, it was the kit I linked to, and it lasted 5 yrs. I think lock-tighting the bottom bolt will help... Hope this data point helps! Good luck! 👍
My bravos xl MCT doesn’t match this one and I can’t find any videos for it. Model number MVWB835DC4 The process is different enough that I’m stuck halfway through this repair 😮
These are a very ingenious washers when they work well, BUT the Achilles heel is the poor quality of the shaft, they rust over time and the tub will not float up and down anymore, leaving the machine inoperable. I'm overhauling ours for the second time, first done 4 years ago, now has the same problem again, rusted shaft and tub is seized. When I did it 4 years ago I foresaw what would happen again and saved the rusted shaft and purchased a piece of stainless steel pipe of the right dimension. Made a nice fitting SS sleeve with the right dimensions and fitted it on the shaft with locktite. ( Great owning a Lathe ) Just got the tub out with the help of the scissor jack and will do the final machining of the rebuilt shaft so the tub will slide up and down perfectly. After all this is done it should never give trouble again.
@@PracticalMechanic Put the washer back together with the sleeved shaft, new bearings and seal. Wife did two huge loads in it, works great and hopefully will NEVER screw up again.
I purchased the kit and reassembled, ran diagnostics, unit wont spin F 72 code. How does it sense it is not in proper position? unit turns freely by hand and inner drum moves up & down, guessing sensor does not pick up inner drum. Maybe shaft is not in proper location? Maybe shaft is not down enough? Can not get any info out of Maytag. Any suggestions?
Do you have to lubricant the axle/shaft? I did a deep cleaning on mine. I didn’t remove the seal or bearings. I just removed the inner tube. I wasn’t sure if I needed to lubricate the axle protruding beyond the seal.
I am not able to seat the axle all the way down. It’s about an 1/8” short from where it should be. I have been hammering on it for hours, but it won’t budge. I can get the nut screwed onto the bottom of the shaft with just a little of the shaft showing below it. Is this okay? Will it leak if I leave it this way?
That should be fine. 1/8" sticking out is normal for some washers. As long as you can get that bottom nut on it will be good. Good luck, and all the best! 👍
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Bearing Replacement Kit - amzn.to/3tsiCNl
Thanks for watching, and I hope you found this useful!
@PracticalMechanic I’m having a heck of a time getting seal to seat. Hammering hard with the pvc pipe. Any suggestions?
It's been a while since I did this, but I seem to remember that sometimes depending on the exact nature of your washer, it may not go all the way down and that is okay. I think maybe it's possible that it sticks up an eighth or 3/16 of an inch.
Thanks used your vid to swap my bearings. Great job!
Thank you, brother! 👍
Thank you so much for an incredible video!! You saved me a lot of time and money!!
Since I was already knee deep in disassembly, I took the tub and the inner plastic liner all out and pressure washed it like new… 12 years of continuous use with a lot of children… hoping to get another 12 years out of it!! Surprised how easy the washer is to work on. Thanks again!!
LORD Bless from Alabama!!
Glad to help, and glad it's up and running again! Doesn't take long to get waaaay behind on laundry with a house full of kids! 👍🙏
If only all DIY videos were so clear and detailed. Great job!
Thank you, much appreciated! All the best to you today! 👍
WOW! Great job! I just came on youtube to replace belt but decided to watch this tutorial.. Awesome job! I dont need to do bearings but decided to keep watching your clear concise instructions.. No UMMMs or AHHHHs.. Listening to your instructions was a pleasure, no confusion. Thanks! Hopefully you have done a tutorial on something I need when it breaks ;) .. Nice job!!
Thank you. Very much appreciate the feedback!
Thank you for a very thorough video that actually shows how you do each thing!
You're welcome, thanks for the feedback! 👍
Very informative! Nice work! I now have the courage to attempt the repair!
Thank you, you can do it!
I found your video very informative. Followed it and got the parts replaced. Great job!!
Thank you, glad it worked out! 👍
Great video. It helped me replace the bearings and shaft in my neighbor's Cabrio washer. He had run it for 2-3 years with a bad seal and cruddy bearings. It got to the point that the controller kept throwing an overheat error (which probably saved the stator windings), and then it finally seized up. Corrosion on the shaft splines was bad enough that I cracked the wooden board trying to free the tub. I ended up having to clear the valleys in the shaft splines with a small pick and lots of penetrating oil to finally get it free (same procedure freed that white plastic ring that fits over the splines).
Couple months post-repair and it's still running like new. It was about $130 total for the OEM Whirlpool bearing kit and a knock off bearing tool.
Wow, nice repair job! The dedication totally paid off. I wish everyone had a neighbor like you! 😂
..really clear "how-to" presentation! Thanks!
My pleasure, thanks for the feedback! Good luck! 👍
I did this job today with help from your video...I repacked the bearings that came with my kit with a high quality wheel bearing grease .there was not enough grease on them in my opinion ..Hopefully this will help make the bearings last longer !
Great job! Good idea adding extra grease, thanks for the tip! 👍
I dont leave a lot of comments but I had to tell you that this was a really well made how to video...thanks a lot!
Thanks for the feedback; it means a lot. Glad it was helpful! 👍
Great video I'm sure to save it and use it when I do my job on my washer!
Alright, rock on! Good luck 👍
Also, liked the scissor jack tip for removing the drum/basket!
awesome job. I didn't have thread locker so I put that glue on the hex screw hope that doesn't come back to bite me later.
It should work, I like the ingenuity!
Excellent how to video
Thank you!
Thank you for this GREAT video. You covered everything. I watched some other videos (one that sounded like Luis Guzman was narrating lol) but this was the best. Didn’t leave anything out.
Awesome, thank you, Chip!
Just wanted to thank you for your great video. Thanks to your video I had success.
Excellent, glad to hear it!
Getting the tub out with jack and 2x4 ended up breaking the top plastic part of the tub. Ever seen that before? Otherwise, your video helped a lot. No doubt my tub was extra stuck.
First time I've heard of that. Sorry it broke
GREAT video! Helped me a TON!!
Excellent, glad to hear it! 👍
great tip with car jack to loosen the tub
Thank you!
First I'd like to say thanks for your well planned video!
I replaced my bearings and shaft a couple years ago. I lightly tightened the nut on the drum shaft, and it came loose in a couple days. So, I tightened the nut. Tight. Then the bearings failed a while later.
My question is do you have a torque value for the nut? I'm an auto tech, we have torque values for just about every nut or bolt on an assembly we run across.
If not, should the nut be tightened to snug and one UMPH plus blue loctite on the threads? Apparently there's zero preload on the bearings, just slightly tight.
Thank you in advance... Z
Update... I followed your instructions, tightened snug only, used blue loktite on clean threads. It's working great! Quiet for once.
The shaft I bought had an issue, the sleeve was not pressed as far as it needed. Took it to the shop I use to work for, they pressed it the 1/8-3/16" that was needed and I assembled.
I also used a 4 ton bottle jack to remove the drum. Worked great but be ready to catch the jack.
Great video, great instructions too. Thanks, bud!
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback! Glad it worked!
@@PracticalMechanic It's so quiet, I keep checking to make sure it's still running! THX again.
Haha! 😂
Great tutorial,did you use Whirlpool parts or aftermarket bearing tool installer and bearing kit with shaft🤔
Did this repair after hearing noises that sounded like the bearings eating themselves. Turned out to be 72 cents worth of change that must have been coming in and out of the filter. (Found AFTER bearing replacement). Now I have an uneven load error every time the washer runs. I replaced the rotor position sensor but it did not help. All four suspension springs are in place and not broken. I am out of guesses. It did not have this problem before I did the bearings. I am an experienced mechanic and I am sure the bearings / seal / retaining nut are all seated correctly BUT something I did must be causing the error.
Just a hunch, but double check the position sensor is put back in the right spot. It's easy to get it swapped, or in the wrong set of grooves. Good luck! 👍
Awesome video!
Thank you! 🙏
Thanks for this helpful video. I plan on replacing my bearings and seal this week. I’m wondering if or where you used the anti-seize lubricant referenced in the initial parts summary?
I originally put some anti-seize on the lower 1/4" Allen bolt at the bottom of the axle. I have since determined that this is not necessary (and probably not a good idea) as that bolt has a tendency to come loose. Therefore, I now recommend not using anti-seize (at least on that bolt). Good luck with the bearing replacement!
You forgot to grease the space on the seal all around for the bearings.
My washer had this problem but I let it go to long and it leaked water and the rust built-up. I just can't believe how much dirt these new washers hold in them. I have crapped two of them with in days of use and these washers hold so much dirt like the inside of yours. My Lady freaked out on all the dirt in the washer.
Good job. The Allen key ,It was loose when you removed it. Do you think if you tighten it , It would have taken care of the problem?.
I do suspect that, yes.
That being said, it was about due for another bearing (based on the last time I replaced it) and I already bought the parts, so that's why I went ahead with it. In hindsight , it would have been interesting to just tighten that, then try it out again, but I didn't.
Thanks.
@@PracticalMechanic How long did your bearings last? Were they OEM or this replacement kit you linked? Thank you for the helpful video. Mine is 12 years old and the OEM bearings sound awful.
Hi @GlennScott, the original bearing lasted 8 yrs, the second was not OEM, it was the kit I linked to, and it lasted 5 yrs. I think lock-tighting the bottom bolt will help... Hope this data point helps! Good luck! 👍
@@PracticalMechanic thank you very much! That's a pretty long time for a replacement part.
Great video, ever have a problem removing the agitator? mine doesn’t want to come out, any hints?
My bravos xl MCT doesn’t match this one and I can’t find any videos for it. Model number MVWB835DC4
The process is different enough that I’m stuck halfway through this repair 😮
What was the link to order the kit
This is the one I bought - amzn.to/3tsiCNl
All the best! 👍
Thank you for your video
Can you check what's kit fit for model Maytag MVWB835DW3?
Did you ever find a kit to fit your washer? I have the same problem?
These are a very ingenious washers when they work well, BUT the Achilles heel is the poor quality of the shaft, they rust over time and the tub will not float up and down anymore, leaving the machine inoperable.
I'm overhauling ours for the second time, first done 4 years ago, now has the same problem again, rusted shaft and tub is seized.
When I did it 4 years ago I foresaw what would happen again and saved the rusted shaft and purchased a piece of stainless steel pipe of the right dimension. Made a nice fitting SS sleeve with the right dimensions and fitted it on the shaft with locktite. ( Great owning a Lathe )
Just got the tub out with the help of the scissor jack and will do the final machining of the rebuilt shaft so the tub will slide up and down perfectly.
After all this is done it should never give trouble again.
Nice! Sounds like a great approach; I'm interested to hear how well it works!
@@PracticalMechanic Put the washer back together with the sleeved shaft, new bearings and seal.
Wife did two huge loads in it, works great and hopefully will NEVER screw up again.
Excellent, great to hear! 👍
I purchased the kit and reassembled, ran diagnostics, unit wont spin F 72 code. How does it sense it is not in proper position? unit turns freely by hand and inner drum moves up & down, guessing sensor does not pick up inner drum. Maybe shaft is not in proper location? Maybe shaft is not down enough?
Can not get any info out of Maytag. Any suggestions?
Check the RPS sensor (Rotation Position Sensor). Make sure it got clipped back in the right spot and wires are not damaged.
Do you have to lubricant the axle/shaft? I did a deep cleaning on mine. I didn’t remove the seal or bearings. I just removed the inner tube. I wasn’t sure if I needed to lubricate the axle protruding beyond the seal.
It's a good idea but not a must. The first thing that usually goes on these is the bearing itself. Good luck!
@@PracticalMechanic what type of lubricant do you recommend? Thanks for the reply!
I recommend a long-term, high-temp lubricating grease. I used Kluber Amblygon TA 30/1 because it was included in the bearing kit. Good luck! 👍
@@PracticalMechanic thank you!
I am not able to seat the axle all the way down. It’s about an 1/8” short from where it should be. I have been hammering on it for hours, but it won’t budge. I can get the nut screwed onto the bottom of the shaft with just a little of the shaft showing below it. Is this okay? Will it leak if I leave it this way?
That should be fine. 1/8" sticking out is normal for some washers. As long as you can get that bottom nut on it will be good. Good luck, and all the best! 👍
Thanks for responding!
My model
MVWB725BWO is not on your list or the Amazon seller page. Any suggestions? Thanks
Yours is the same as mine. The O (Octopus) is actually a 0 (Zero). This is listed on the Amazon page. Hope this helps!
Thanks @JosephTyre for clarifying.
𝕡𝐫ｏ𝕄ｏ𝔰𝓶 ☹️